I found the video excellent and it has helped me to retu my machine to a fully functional jet washer. A little tip I picked up from elsewhere is to pour some antifreeze into the inlet and jut switch it on and off, the antifreeze will lubricate those hidden troublesome parts and help prevent the valve from sticking. I've been using this tip for many years and all my jet washers remain fully functional.
Thanks for the compliment and tip appreciated. Another way to stop the valve from sticking is to depressurise after use, then you can also turn machine on and connect water supply to it. Eitherway water shouldnt be left in it in case it freezes
Thank you for the most practical and the sensible video, my K5 85M has the same mechanism but slightly different looking. You are the only one who made a practical video. Thanks to you now I have pressure washer that is working. I was about to throw it out when I lost pressure after repairing the on off switch.
Thanak you Stephen, this is the most sensible, practical and logical video I came across to repair my K5 85M. I was about to throw it out after repairing the on off switch. I modified the on off switch, but I found there was no pressure when I turned it on. I read about the bypass valve but your video is most comprehensive in terms of reconditioning. I have one comment about the video where at times the camera was not on the subject, but it is easy enough to visualise what is happening . Thank you again.
Just followed your instructions for my Karcher K5.85. The repair shop said that they could not repair my pressure cleaner because parts were no longer available. Cost me $40 for them to tell me this, after they broke it down to investigate. I was looking at buying a new one and spending $750 on a Karcher K7 Compact. Hopefully I will get many more years out of my K5.85. Thanks for your great video.
Thank you. I just fixed mine. All I needed to do was to free up the motor as it had not been used for 10 years. BTW there is an extra hidden torx screw under the handle that is a different size.
Thanks so much for your excellent video. I fixed my old Karcher K6.50 by cleaning/lubricating the bypass valve exactly as you described. Initially it did not work but this was because hadn't pushed the valve all the way down into the casing before replacing the holding cover. Great idea by the way to use an M5 bolt to remove the valve! My problem wasn't that the machine did not turn on but that there was no pressure in the lance the second time the trigger was pressed; I then had to reduce the pressure setting on the lance or remove it to get pressure again (and the same thing would happen the next time I released the trigger). Great idea by the way to use an M5 bolt to remove the valve!
I owe you a beer. The 520 is similar to my K695 which refused to start. I followed the same steps as your video and was able to access the sticking valve. I didn't have to remove it as I was able to unjam it with spray grease, while operating it. It even works better than before :-). Thanks. 😁
Grazieeee, è proprio quello che ha smesso di dare pressione quando stringo la lancia. L'interruttore io lo ho eliminato perché mi si era rotta la manopola meccanica. Avevo gia smontato quella valvola ma non sapevo che doveva fare tac tac a premere. La mia e' una 520m del 1978, uguale, ha smesso da poco di funzionare. Grazie tante.
Grear stuff Stephen, many thanks. You seem very knowledgeable about this washer... Mine is working great now apart from when using a patio cleaner attachment (tried a few) and it keeps cutting out/on/out/on. With the cover off it looks like this valve keeps closing (due to too much pressure or too sensitive). Any ideas?
Hi, great video. I have a Karcher K6.50 pressure washer which is not working properly much like in your description. I just wonder if the stop/start valve is the same as the unloader valve or are they different things altogether?
Stephen, great video. Thanks. If the motor continues to run after you connect to the water, does that mean the valve is stuck in the on position? Low water pressure? And would You know what the remedy for that would be?
Thanks Simon, the valve could be sticking, its important any broken down rubber is removed from the internal surface of the bore, also making sure oring is free from cracks. It does sound like the valve is sticking, you can use an m5 bolt to check the movement of the valve in the bore using a pair of pliers. Low water pressure could be issue also, check someone elses hose. Hope this helps
Brilliant video but valve is slightly different , I could undo the plastic plunger to put the M5 in, I mange to get it off eventually but it opened up the valve mech and I couldn’t get the valve out 🤷🏼♂️
Hi julian, it could require a bit of force to remove it if it is the same design as the 520. It could be a different design, in which case it may be best looking at the parts diagram to see.
Help please , can’t get past removing the main outer housing , my 550 my has a switch , part no 5.321-618.0, it has to be removed to remove the housing , do you know how to remove it ?
very comprehensive vid. i managed to remove the spill valve, clean it and the port as best i could and it did work without water on, water on and it stopped. the spring return spill valve seemed very stiff, more so than the one in the vid. is it worth risking £20 for a replacement valve of just scrap it?
I cannot really advise here on this as not sure of the condition of the machine or the bore. Karcher dont make power hoses the way they used to, the aluminium body power hoses are very robust. Not sure from memory but it may be work checking the condition of the o-ring and making sure the black spigot can move freely, silicon grease is key. Hope this helps
@martincoxon1329 silicon grease is used on o-ring. Other greases cause material to deteriorate. The o-ring could already be degraded depending on age of machine. Tube Silicon grease isnt expensive and cleaner to use, you dont need loads just a smear to coat surface. Think there are little holes in bore so need to make sure these arent block with grease 👍
Stephen, thanks for the reply. I think the spring is too stiff and following some seriously harsh industrial language, I have shelved the project and taken it to the tip. However I did enjoy the video and for a brief moment felt I had sorted it. I'm off to butcher the vacuum cleaner now. Cheers
Bonjour j'ai eu un problème avec l'interrupteur de marche arrêt et j'ai beau remonter correctement il ne veux pas fonctionner et je je ne comprends pas le système que Karcher a inventé. Si je n'y arrive pas je vais coller la lamelle de contact et faire marcher le Karcher avec la prise .qu'en pensez vous ?
Thanks for the vid. I have got to the point of uncovering the spill valve. My machine looks identical to yours apart from valve itself. mine is yellow & blue plastic and a different design. What is the part code for your machine pls? mine is a 1.069-923 but there appear to be several 520m versions but I guess internals are pretty much the same. Thing is, a valve for mine is £43. A valve for a -931 is £19. But two other www i have been to suggests they use the same part...even though design is different. Possible maybe just by year. for £19 worth a fix but at £42 plus post...borderline. tnx G
Not a problem Graham, part number for mine is 4.580-618.0. The replacement version for mine is showing the blue and yellow parts as well, that being said they may mould these branding colours now but could be different. The thing is i havent replaced this part, mine is still original. I simply cleaned the bore where o-ring had degraded, added some silicon grease and changed the bottom O-Ring (i will emphasise the silicon as its important not to use any other type of grease). There is also a little hole in the bore that needs to be kept clear of grease.
@@stephenturner5836 Thanks. The construction of the blue/yellow valve is different to the one you have but I guess the function is the same if it fits and has correct spring. Getting it out is not as simple as yours though and a couple of initial tries just makes me feel it will snap. Does not unscrew like yours. And that would be a pain as I feel it could write it off, save for major internal surgery. But I get the impression that the models for sale now are of such inferior quality that it's worth a bit more effort and a £30 quid part - even though an equivalent power machine is only £80 on Karcher Outlet.
@@grahammoore8662 mine is same as yours , did you manage to get it out, I unscrewed the blue plastics part but it opened up the valve with a small bearing so could get anything in to get the valve out . 🤷🏼♂️
I review Karcher PWs and I can assure you they are the best overall washers on the market . The f you need help choosing a model, send me a message and I’ll be sure to help you out
@fredsanford336 Thank you for that, all good at the minute. As long as the parts are available then i will repair it if it goes faulty but is over 20 years old now and still working well 👍
This valve turns the power hose on and off when you activate the trigger. It could control the pressure if there is a bypass hole within the bore that this part is located, the by pass valve would be open at lower flow pressures and there is a hole in this bore. My issue was the power hose was not turning on after releasing trigger.
Thanks for your reply. My Karcher has a similar looking spring loaded part in the very top of my machine, just opposite the exit point for the pressurised water, so hopefully by adjusting this I may get my machine to work properly. At the moment I have pressure but just not enough and this may well be air related. The trigger starts and stops the machine, although with a few seconds delay in stopping - but I have also been unable to purge the air - 20 minutes of running water through it but still bubbles coming out. Any ideas ? I have no leaks. Thanks
@@stitcheruk1150 check the seal where the garden hose attaches to powerhose inlet, make sure its definitely sealing and fully pressed on, they can detatch a little when the power hose cuts off. Otherwise indepth high pressure seals or springs could result in low flow. If springs are gone the power hose sounds rough when running or with no water in it (like a 2cv, if you get me)
I found the video excellent and it has helped me to retu my machine to a fully functional jet washer. A little tip I picked up from elsewhere is to pour some antifreeze into the inlet and jut switch it on and off, the antifreeze will lubricate those hidden troublesome parts and help prevent the valve from sticking. I've been using this tip for many years and all my jet washers remain fully functional.
Thanks for the compliment and tip appreciated. Another way to stop the valve from sticking is to depressurise after use, then you can also turn machine on and connect water supply to it. Eitherway water shouldnt be left in it in case it freezes
Thank you for the most practical and the sensible video, my K5 85M has the same mechanism but slightly different looking. You are the only one who made a practical video. Thanks to you now I have pressure washer that is working. I was about to throw it out when I lost pressure after repairing the on off switch.
same, was about to order a new one
Thanak you Stephen, this is the most sensible, practical and logical video I came across to repair my K5 85M. I was about to throw it out after repairing the on off switch. I modified the on off switch, but I found there was no pressure when I turned it on. I read about the bypass valve but your video is most comprehensive in terms of reconditioning. I have one comment about the video where at times the camera was not on the subject, but it is easy enough to visualise what is happening . Thank you again.
Just followed your instructions for my Karcher K5.85. The repair shop said that they could not repair my pressure cleaner because parts were no longer available. Cost me $40 for them to tell me this, after they broke it down to investigate. I was looking at buying a new one and spending $750 on a Karcher K7 Compact. Hopefully I will get many more years out of my K5.85. Thanks for your great video.
It’s definitely a decent machine
It took just an hour to fix my 520M. Great video and brilliantly presented. Thank you very much.
Thank you. I just fixed mine. All I needed to do was to free up the motor as it had not been used for 10 years. BTW there is an extra hidden torx screw under the handle that is a different size.
same for a HD5/11c - thanks buddy saved me a lot of agro trying to fix my mum's pressure washer.
Thanks so much for your excellent video. I fixed my old Karcher K6.50 by cleaning/lubricating the bypass valve exactly as you described. Initially it did not work but this was because hadn't pushed the valve all the way down into the casing before replacing the holding cover. Great idea by the way to use an M5 bolt to remove the valve! My problem wasn't that the machine did not turn on but that there was no pressure in the lance the second time the trigger was pressed; I then had to reduce the pressure setting on the lance or remove it to get pressure again (and the same thing would happen the next time I released the trigger). Great idea by the way to use an M5 bolt to remove the valve!
I owe you a beer.
The 520 is similar to my K695 which refused to start. I followed the same steps as your video and was able to access the sticking valve. I didn't have to remove it as I was able to unjam it with spray grease, while operating it.
It even works better than before :-). Thanks. 😁
Not a problem and glad you got it sorted 👍. Just watch some of the greases on orings as some rubbers degrade with certain types of grease... 👍👍.
Absolutely brilliant video for this job. Every stage crystal clear.
Hurrah. My Kärcher 520M workshop again. Thank you for your great video
Great video. Thanks from Downunder for the excellent advice and demonstration Stephen! Well done. I 'm impressed with your one-handedness!
Grazieeee, è proprio quello che ha smesso di dare pressione quando stringo la lancia. L'interruttore io lo ho eliminato perché mi si era rotta la manopola meccanica. Avevo gia smontato quella valvola ma non sapevo che doveva fare tac tac a premere. La mia e' una 520m del 1978, uguale, ha smesso da poco di funzionare. Grazie tante.
Sono contento che il video abbia aiutato, i vecchi karcher sono i migliori rispetto a quelli che ottieni in questi giorni.
Many thanks for producing this video as the stuck valve is my machines problem. What would we do without UA-cam to help us!
Danke für dein Video! Mein Hochdruckreiniger läuft wieder!!!
Hallo, ich freue mich, dass das Video Ihnen geholfen hat, den Hochdrucklift wieder zum Laufen zu bringen 👍
Well done, top man. This is what the internet is for.
I had exactly the same problem. Your video enabled me to fix it. Many thanks.
Very helpful especailly with the Norn Iron accect Ken [Pretoria].
Danke für dein Video ,
Durch deinen Tip läuft mein Kärcher wieder.
Thanks for the great Video
Brilliant, thank you. Just saved me buying a new one!
Grear stuff Stephen, many thanks. You seem very knowledgeable about this washer... Mine is working great now apart from when using a patio cleaner attachment (tried a few) and it keeps cutting out/on/out/on. With the cover off it looks like this valve keeps closing (due to too much pressure or too sensitive). Any ideas?
Brilliant video and it has worked. Many thanks for posting!
Hi, great video. I have a Karcher K6.50 pressure washer which is not working properly much like in your description. I just wonder if the stop/start valve is the same as the unloader valve or are they different things altogether?
Gracias por el video. Tengo una maquina justo con ese problema..
Stephen, great video. Thanks. If the motor continues to run after you connect to the water, does that mean the valve is stuck in the on position? Low water pressure? And would
You know what the remedy for that would be?
Thanks Simon, the valve could be sticking, its important any broken down rubber is removed from the internal surface of the bore, also making sure oring is free from cracks. It does sound like the valve is sticking, you can use an m5 bolt to check the movement of the valve in the bore using a pair of pliers. Low water pressure could be issue also, check someone elses hose. Hope this helps
Brilliant video but valve is slightly different , I could undo the plastic plunger to put the M5 in, I mange to get it off eventually but it opened up the valve mech and I couldn’t get the valve out 🤷🏼♂️
Hi julian, it could require a bit of force to remove it if it is the same design as the 520. It could be a different design, in which case it may be best looking at the parts diagram to see.
Great video
Worked for me
Thanks
Help please , can’t get past removing the main outer housing , my 550 my has a switch , part no 5.321-618.0, it has to be removed to remove the housing , do you know how to remove it ?
very comprehensive vid. i managed to remove the spill valve, clean it and the port as best i could and it did work without water on, water on and it stopped.
the spring return spill valve seemed very stiff, more so than the one in the vid.
is it worth risking £20 for a replacement valve of just scrap it?
I cannot really advise here on this as not sure of the condition of the machine or the bore. Karcher dont make power hoses the way they used to, the aluminium body power hoses are very robust. Not sure from memory but it may be work checking the condition of the o-ring and making sure the black spigot can move freely, silicon grease is key. Hope this helps
@@stephenturner5836 cheers. I just used spray grease, is silicon grease thicker and heavy duty?
@martincoxon1329 silicon grease is used on o-ring. Other greases cause material to deteriorate. The o-ring could already be degraded depending on age of machine. Tube Silicon grease isnt expensive and cleaner to use, you dont need loads just a smear to coat surface. Think there are little holes in bore so need to make sure these arent block with grease 👍
Stephen, thanks for the reply. I think the spring is too stiff and following some seriously harsh industrial language, I have shelved the project and taken it to the tip. However I did enjoy the video and for a brief moment felt I had sorted it. I'm off to butcher the vacuum cleaner now. Cheers
Tanks bro 🎉❤❤❤🎉
Bonjour j'ai eu un problème avec l'interrupteur de marche arrêt et j'ai beau remonter correctement il ne veux pas fonctionner et je je ne comprends pas le système que Karcher a inventé.
Si je n'y arrive pas je vais coller la lamelle de contact et faire marcher le Karcher avec la prise .qu'en pensez vous ?
avez-vous vérifié et vous êtes-vous assuré qu'il pouvait monter et descendre ? le piston (embout noir) a-t-il pris contact correctement ? l'interrupteur d'arrêt fonctionne-t-il réellement ?
Very good
Thanks for the vid. I have got to the point of uncovering the spill valve. My machine looks identical to yours apart from valve itself. mine is yellow & blue plastic and a different design. What is the part code for your machine pls? mine is a 1.069-923 but there appear to be several 520m versions but I guess internals are pretty much the same. Thing is, a valve for mine is £43. A valve for a -931 is £19. But two other www i have been to suggests they use the same part...even though design is different. Possible maybe just by year. for £19 worth a fix but at £42 plus post...borderline. tnx G
Not a problem Graham, part number for mine is 4.580-618.0. The replacement version for mine is showing the blue and yellow parts as well, that being said they may mould these branding colours now but could be different. The thing is i havent replaced this part, mine is still original. I simply cleaned the bore where o-ring had degraded, added some silicon grease and changed the bottom O-Ring (i will emphasise the silicon as its important not to use any other type of grease). There is also a little hole in the bore that needs to be kept clear of grease.
@@stephenturner5836 Thanks. The construction of the blue/yellow valve is different to the one you have but I guess the function is the same if it fits and has correct spring. Getting it out is not as simple as yours though and a couple of initial tries just makes me feel it will snap. Does not unscrew like yours. And that would be a pain as I feel it could write it off, save for major internal surgery. But I get the impression that the models for sale now are of such inferior quality that it's worth a bit more effort and a £30 quid part - even though an equivalent power machine is only £80 on Karcher Outlet.
@@grahammoore8662 mine is same as yours , did you manage to get it out, I unscrewed the blue plastics part but it opened up the valve with a small bearing so could get anything in to get the valve out . 🤷🏼♂️
I review Karcher PWs and I can assure you they are the best overall washers on the market . The f you need help choosing a model, send me a message and I’ll be sure to help you out
@fredsanford336 Thank you for that, all good at the minute. As long as the parts are available then i will repair it if it goes faulty but is over 20 years old now and still working well 👍
Hi. Is this the valve that regulates the pressure, by moving as the trigger on the handle is activated ?
This valve turns the power hose on and off when you activate the trigger. It could control the pressure if there is a bypass hole within the bore that this part is located, the by pass valve would be open at lower flow pressures and there is a hole in this bore. My issue was the power hose was not turning on after releasing trigger.
Thanks for your reply. My Karcher has a similar looking spring loaded part in the very top of my machine, just opposite the exit point for the pressurised water, so hopefully by adjusting this I may get my machine to work properly. At the moment I have pressure but just not enough and this may well be air related. The trigger starts and stops the machine, although with a few seconds delay in stopping - but I have also been unable to purge the air - 20 minutes of running water through it but still bubbles coming out. Any ideas ? I have no leaks. Thanks
@@stitcheruk1150 check the seal where the garden hose attaches to powerhose inlet, make sure its definitely sealing and fully pressed on, they can detatch a little when the power hose cuts off. Otherwise indepth high pressure seals or springs could result in low flow. If springs are gone the power hose sounds rough when running or with no water in it (like a 2cv, if you get me)
👍
Ok, but the repeated "eeerm" is a little annoying!