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Stephen Turner
Приєднався 21 чер 2013
karcher 520M - Not Switching On - Sticking Valve Issue Solved
Problem: Power Hose did not power on when trigger is pulled on gun or when switching on when it has been left at full pressure with water in it.
Issue: Sticking valve that operates a microswitch.
Expensive Resolution: New Valve at cost
Temporary Resolution: Clean up and apply silicon grease
Low cost possible solution: Replace BS-012 O-Ring and apply a smear of silicone grease.
Issue: Sticking valve that operates a microswitch.
Expensive Resolution: New Valve at cost
Temporary Resolution: Clean up and apply silicon grease
Low cost possible solution: Replace BS-012 O-Ring and apply a smear of silicone grease.
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Відео
VW Passat B6 - Drivers Window Regulator / Door Handle Central Locking Repair
Переглядів 32 тис.4 роки тому
VW Passat B6 - Drivers Window Regulator / Door Handle Central Locking Repair. - Note this was my method and is for guidance only, i am not responsible for any errors in anybodies car repairs. - No seal Central locking mechanism! - Battery died, Remaining assembly is reverse covered in first 10 Minutes. - Sorry for bad camera footage, no tripod or professional camera for creating video. - Every ...
E36 BMW M3 - S50B30 - Warm Idle Misfire - Possible Vanos Oil Seal Failure
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E36 BMW M3 - S50B30 - Warm Idle Misfire - Possible Vanos Oil Seal Failure when oil heats up and leaks past the vanos piston leaving CAM in incorrect position at idle.
J'ai le même karcher mais le miens s'allume directement dès que je met sur ON alors que normalement il doit s'allumer uniquement quand on appui sur le pistolet ???
Tanks bro 🎉❤❤❤🎉
I review Karcher PWs and I can assure you they are the best overall washers on the market . The f you need help choosing a model, send me a message and I’ll be sure to help you out
@fredsanford336 Thank you for that, all good at the minute. As long as the parts are available then i will repair it if it goes faulty but is over 20 years old now and still working well 👍
Danke für dein Video! Mein Hochdruckreiniger läuft wieder!!!
Hallo, ich freue mich, dass das Video Ihnen geholfen hat, den Hochdrucklift wieder zum Laufen zu bringen 👍
Thank you. I just fixed mine. All I needed to do was to free up the motor as it had not been used for 10 years. BTW there is an extra hidden torx screw under the handle that is a different size.
Gracias por el video. Tengo una maquina justo con ese problema..
same for a HD5/11c - thanks buddy saved me a lot of agro trying to fix my mum's pressure washer.
Thanak you Stephen, this is the most sensible, practical and logical video I came across to repair my K5 85M. I was about to throw it out after repairing the on off switch. I modified the on off switch, but I found there was no pressure when I turned it on. I read about the bypass valve but your video is most comprehensive in terms of reconditioning. I have one comment about the video where at times the camera was not on the subject, but it is easy enough to visualise what is happening . Thank you again.
Thank you for the most practical and the sensible video, my K5 85M has the same mechanism but slightly different looking. You are the only one who made a practical video. Thanks to you now I have pressure washer that is working. I was about to throw it out when I lost pressure after repairing the on off switch.
Danke für dein Video , Durch deinen Tip läuft mein Kärcher wieder. Thanks for the great Video
Grazieeee, è proprio quello che ha smesso di dare pressione quando stringo la lancia. L'interruttore io lo ho eliminato perché mi si era rotta la manopola meccanica. Avevo gia smontato quella valvola ma non sapevo che doveva fare tac tac a premere. La mia e' una 520m del 1978, uguale, ha smesso da poco di funzionare. Grazie tante.
Sono contento che il video abbia aiutato, i vecchi karcher sono i migliori rispetto a quelli che ottieni in questi giorni.
I had exactly the same problem. Your video enabled me to fix it. Many thanks.
Grear stuff Stephen, many thanks. You seem very knowledgeable about this washer... Mine is working great now apart from when using a patio cleaner attachment (tried a few) and it keeps cutting out/on/out/on. With the cover off it looks like this valve keeps closing (due to too much pressure or too sensitive). Any ideas?
Well done, top man. This is what the internet is for.
Bonjour j'ai eu un problème avec l'interrupteur de marche arrêt et j'ai beau remonter correctement il ne veux pas fonctionner et je je ne comprends pas le système que Karcher a inventé. Si je n'y arrive pas je vais coller la lamelle de contact et faire marcher le Karcher avec la prise .qu'en pensez vous ?
avez-vous vérifié et vous êtes-vous assuré qu'il pouvait monter et descendre ? le piston (embout noir) a-t-il pris contact correctement ? l'interrupteur d'arrêt fonctionne-t-il réellement ?
Stephen, great video. Thanks. If the motor continues to run after you connect to the water, does that mean the valve is stuck in the on position? Low water pressure? And would You know what the remedy for that would be?
Thanks Simon, the valve could be sticking, its important any broken down rubber is removed from the internal surface of the bore, also making sure oring is free from cracks. It does sound like the valve is sticking, you can use an m5 bolt to check the movement of the valve in the bore using a pair of pliers. Low water pressure could be issue also, check someone elses hose. Hope this helps
No se ve un pijo
I found the video excellent and it has helped me to retu my machine to a fully functional jet washer. A little tip I picked up from elsewhere is to pour some antifreeze into the inlet and jut switch it on and off, the antifreeze will lubricate those hidden troublesome parts and help prevent the valve from sticking. I've been using this tip for many years and all my jet washers remain fully functional.
Thanks for the compliment and tip appreciated. Another way to stop the valve from sticking is to depressurise after use, then you can also turn machine on and connect water supply to it. Eitherway water shouldnt be left in it in case it freezes
This is the best how to video out there and the fault with the outer door handle was the cable liner snagging up.i pull the liner out a bit out and it's free,door now opens with ease.its a fiddle job tho
Just followed your instructions for my Karcher K5.85. The repair shop said that they could not repair my pressure cleaner because parts were no longer available. Cost me $40 for them to tell me this, after they broke it down to investigate. I was looking at buying a new one and spending $750 on a Karcher K7 Compact. Hopefully I will get many more years out of my K5.85. Thanks for your great video.
It’s definitely a decent machine
Yes very straght too see the leak and easy to replace thnxs man! Its coolant flange right name.
thankyou sir , yesterday i got out of the car at tescos came back 10 mins later couldnt open the car .had to get a lift home and leave the car with tools in... anyway went back today tooled up like and the wd40 etc after prizing the outer window trim off ...got it to open. so back at home im thinking micro switch, central lock etc then i spotted the cable nipple was no longer attached to the cable. so im looking at the task in hand going ohh no this is hard. then i watched this video and bam i feel confident with your guide. thanks i sub and like
hi just watched your vid nice one ive got a problem everything works fine all locks but will only open from the inside the door wont open from the outside at all any ideas the handle springs back but doesnt seem to engage to open the door but works fine from the inside and all locks work fine just carnt get in untill i jump in from the passenger side and open the door from the inside lol
Think the cable from outside door handle to the door lock is not connected or is stuck in the sheath and not returning back to door lock, never resets if you get me. its a common failure. I freed mine up with WD 40 to get it moving but it ended up doing same thing again. Replaced cable a few weeks later 15 quid from vw. Had to do back door as well as mot failed it.
Hurrah. My Kärcher 520M workshop again. Thank you for your great video
Help please , can’t get past removing the main outer housing , my 550 my has a switch , part no 5.321-618.0, it has to be removed to remove the housing , do you know how to remove it ?
Great video Worked for me Thanks
Brilliant video but valve is slightly different , I could undo the plastic plunger to put the M5 in, I mange to get it off eventually but it opened up the valve mech and I couldn’t get the valve out 🤷🏼♂️
Hi julian, it could require a bit of force to remove it if it is the same design as the 520. It could be a different design, in which case it may be best looking at the parts diagram to see.
very comprehensive vid. i managed to remove the spill valve, clean it and the port as best i could and it did work without water on, water on and it stopped. the spring return spill valve seemed very stiff, more so than the one in the vid. is it worth risking £20 for a replacement valve of just scrap it?
I cannot really advise here on this as not sure of the condition of the machine or the bore. Karcher dont make power hoses the way they used to, the aluminium body power hoses are very robust. Not sure from memory but it may be work checking the condition of the o-ring and making sure the black spigot can move freely, silicon grease is key. Hope this helps
@@stephenturner5836 cheers. I just used spray grease, is silicon grease thicker and heavy duty?
@martincoxon1329 silicon grease is used on o-ring. Other greases cause material to deteriorate. The o-ring could already be degraded depending on age of machine. Tube Silicon grease isnt expensive and cleaner to use, you dont need loads just a smear to coat surface. Think there are little holes in bore so need to make sure these arent block with grease 👍
Stephen, thanks for the reply. I think the spring is too stiff and following some seriously harsh industrial language, I have shelved the project and taken it to the tip. However I did enjoy the video and for a brief moment felt I had sorted it. I'm off to butcher the vacuum cleaner now. Cheers
Wish I had seen this video before I found out those E5 bolts are reverse thread 😩😮💨 rounded the heads on them 😂🔫
Brilliant video and it has worked. Many thanks for posting!
I owe you a beer. The 520 is similar to my K695 which refused to start. I followed the same steps as your video and was able to access the sticking valve. I didn't have to remove it as I was able to unjam it with spray grease, while operating it. It even works better than before :-). Thanks. 😁
Not a problem and glad you got it sorted 👍. Just watch some of the greases on orings as some rubbers degrade with certain types of grease... 👍👍.
Wish I had seen this before I butchered the window regulator piece at the junk yard. But that's not what I was after, Tought me how to remove the glass and the handle cable. Thanks
Ok, but the repeated "eeerm" is a little annoying!
Very good
👍
Thanks so much for your excellent video. I fixed my old Karcher K6.50 by cleaning/lubricating the bypass valve exactly as you described. Initially it did not work but this was because hadn't pushed the valve all the way down into the casing before replacing the holding cover. Great idea by the way to use an M5 bolt to remove the valve! My problem wasn't that the machine did not turn on but that there was no pressure in the lance the second time the trigger was pressed; I then had to reduce the pressure setting on the lance or remove it to get pressure again (and the same thing would happen the next time I released the trigger). Great idea by the way to use an M5 bolt to remove the valve!
Absolutely brilliant video for this job. Every stage crystal clear.
Hi, great video. I have a Karcher K6.50 pressure washer which is not working properly much like in your description. I just wonder if the stop/start valve is the same as the unloader valve or are they different things altogether?
It took just an hour to fix my 520M. Great video and brilliantly presented. Thank you very much.
Brilliant, thank you. Just saved me buying a new one!
horrible video
Very helpful especailly with the Norn Iron accect Ken [Pretoria].
Great video. Thanks from Downunder for the excellent advice and demonstration Stephen! Well done. I 'm impressed with your one-handedness!
Hi. Is this the valve that regulates the pressure, by moving as the trigger on the handle is activated ?
This valve turns the power hose on and off when you activate the trigger. It could control the pressure if there is a bypass hole within the bore that this part is located, the by pass valve would be open at lower flow pressures and there is a hole in this bore. My issue was the power hose was not turning on after releasing trigger.
Thanks for your reply. My Karcher has a similar looking spring loaded part in the very top of my machine, just opposite the exit point for the pressurised water, so hopefully by adjusting this I may get my machine to work properly. At the moment I have pressure but just not enough and this may well be air related. The trigger starts and stops the machine, although with a few seconds delay in stopping - but I have also been unable to purge the air - 20 minutes of running water through it but still bubbles coming out. Any ideas ? I have no leaks. Thanks
@@stitcheruk1150 check the seal where the garden hose attaches to powerhose inlet, make sure its definitely sealing and fully pressed on, they can detatch a little when the power hose cuts off. Otherwise indepth high pressure seals or springs could result in low flow. If springs are gone the power hose sounds rough when running or with no water in it (like a 2cv, if you get me)
What tool did you use to remove the bolts for the speaker? And what was used to push through the three white plastic clips that go around the central locking at 10:25? Cheers
For the speaker they needed to be drilled out with 4mm drill bit. For plastic clips that locate in window regulator panel they were pressed through with back of socket wrench.
@@stephenturner5836 hi mate, all seemed to go pretty well but my door handle on the inside won’t engage and open the door - any ideas where I’ve gone wrong??
@@MFVideos97 good to jear, have you reconnected the cable to the back of the door handle correctly? Does the door close when you shut it or bounce back open again?
@@stephenturner5836 the door closes fine and opens from outside but when I pull the internal door handle the cable seems to engage with it but it’s as if it’s got no tension/not connecting properly at the other end
@@MFVideos97 you need to make sure that it is clipped in correctly into the door hand. The hook should go intto the loop and the plastic bit clips onto back from memory
Thanks for the vid. I have got to the point of uncovering the spill valve. My machine looks identical to yours apart from valve itself. mine is yellow & blue plastic and a different design. What is the part code for your machine pls? mine is a 1.069-923 but there appear to be several 520m versions but I guess internals are pretty much the same. Thing is, a valve for mine is £43. A valve for a -931 is £19. But two other www i have been to suggests they use the same part...even though design is different. Possible maybe just by year. for £19 worth a fix but at £42 plus post...borderline. tnx G
Not a problem Graham, part number for mine is 4.580-618.0. The replacement version for mine is showing the blue and yellow parts as well, that being said they may mould these branding colours now but could be different. The thing is i havent replaced this part, mine is still original. I simply cleaned the bore where o-ring had degraded, added some silicon grease and changed the bottom O-Ring (i will emphasise the silicon as its important not to use any other type of grease). There is also a little hole in the bore that needs to be kept clear of grease.
@@stephenturner5836 Thanks. The construction of the blue/yellow valve is different to the one you have but I guess the function is the same if it fits and has correct spring. Getting it out is not as simple as yours though and a couple of initial tries just makes me feel it will snap. Does not unscrew like yours. And that would be a pain as I feel it could write it off, save for major internal surgery. But I get the impression that the models for sale now are of such inferior quality that it's worth a bit more effort and a £30 quid part - even though an equivalent power machine is only £80 on Karcher Outlet.
@@grahammoore8662 mine is same as yours , did you manage to get it out, I unscrewed the blue plastics part but it opened up the valve with a small bearing so could get anything in to get the valve out . 🤷🏼♂️
Many thanks for producing this video as the stuck valve is my machines problem. What would we do without UA-cam to help us!
THANK YOU
2008 b6 estate. Got as far as trying to get the inner panel off but appears to be pinned somehow at the top around where the exterior handle is. Just couldn’t get it off and couldn’t see what was stopping it. Didn’t want to force it and risk breaking. Any ideas anyone? Does the exterior handle need to come off maybe?
Im not sure if the design is possibly different but the 3 white plastic lugs need to be pushed the panel. These are around door handle area
great video... just followed it and now my back windows will not operate. any idea why?
Is there an isolator switch on the drivers door which controls read windows? This is to stop kids hanging out the windows. I have wind down windows in back of mine. If not that could be connector not plugged in at regulator correctly.