Not to mention the weight savings from the wiring harness diet. Sound deadening is definitely heavy. I have a box of Killmat in my garage (80 mil) and it's got some heft to it. I think it will be worth it though for a car that will be used on the street. Great video 👍
I actually didn't diet my harness, but I did strip all the gummy tape and covers off of it and replaced it with a nicer plastic wire loom. If I'm lucky maybe it saved a couple pounds. I never drove the car without sound deadening so I have nothing to compare it to, but I like how sturdy my car sounds/feels! Still louder than an average sports car even though I kept the cat on the exhaust to keep things quieter.
@Mike Camera you left all the yellow airbag safety wiring in? I was going to at least delete that stuff. Probably saves a couple pounds. Less to pack into that narrow center tunnel.
I removed a few yellow airbag wires but my donor harness didn't haven't many when I got it. It's not too crammed in the center tunnel but it's tight at the back where it meets the fuel tank. I also relocated a couple fuse boxes to under my dash.
@@mikecamera818 I glued yoga mat to the inside of the fibreglass on the front fenders and then on top of the rear liners I used the proper sound deadening. If I had my time back I’d probably use the yoga mat on the rears too as it’s cheaper and a fraction of the weight.
Very cool kit. I am building a Factory Five GTM now. Even though you didn't make your target weight that car is still extremely light! Must be a fun ride.
The GTM looks like an awesome project! It's going to be a blast when you're done. The 818 is so light and responsive. Everything is direct. You'll see with your GTM.
It would be interesting to take it to a race car shop and put it on the scales there. The weight would be to the nearest pound instead of the nearest 100 lbs. Also you could see the corner weights as well.
The CAT scale claims it's accurate to 20lbs which is pretty good for $13. I am debating getting it corner weighted and aligned better at a race shop though to improve the sharpness of the handling.
people will argue like crazy but all of the fastest track cars are rear weight bias a bit less than 60:40 rear biased. F1, F3, Formula V, Indy car. LMP1 cars. C8 z06, 911. It's not just mid engine, it's rear biased mid engine. 50/50 is something to aspire to in a front engine car.
Gah! Super cool car, but that's about what a mild diet on an MR2 Spyder/Roadster/MRS weighs, which costs significantly less, has much better aftermarket support, etc.
The bill did add up haha. An MR2 is cheaper but it's also 10-15 years older and still doesn't have 275hp. A new Mustang has 200hp more but is common and weighs twice as much. There are other options but I bought a kit car to have a project and a unique car. I learned so much more over the last 2.5 years than I would have just buying a car. It attracts a lot of attention and I've had some awesome conversations with other car people about it which is fun.
Impressive! Been watching your videos with great interest as I'm working on my own 818s build. Presently I'm fitting and attaching the body panels so am hopeful to be driving this summer. I have also been trying to resolve my EVAP design and really like what you've done. Do you mind sharing the specifics? I'm guessing you just replaced the larger clunkier components and added the smaller unit, then used ROM Raider to delete the EVAP codes?
Yep, I removed the OEM canister/solenoids and put vinyl caps on the open ports on the engine. Then ran a hose from the air vent on my fuel tank to one side of my homemade canister. The hose on the other side of the canister just vents to atmosphere. Canister is made from PVC pipes/fittings, filled with activated charcoal, and I cut out 2 circles of sponge to put inside on each end of the pipe to keep the charcoal from getting out. Deleted any codes with ROM Raider. Works great! FYI I did have to move the canister above my fuel filler because when I filled my gas tank 100%, a little fuel would drip out of the canister hose. Good luck on your build! Video #5 has a little more info on my canister ua-cam.com/video/3_zdHifEyCA/v-deo.html Video #21 shows how it's installed and my fuel drip problem that was an easy fix ua-cam.com/video/uQ3h5q0WozU/v-deo.html My build thread has more details about my overall build if you're interested thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?36902-Camera-s-818C
@@mikecamera818 telling you man. Their purpose is to tell trucks if they are overweight. They round up to avoid liability for overweight citations. I work in the industry. Your car probably isn't that heavy. Super easy to go to a scrap yard and know for sure.
@StatiK2971 I eventually put the car on a set of racing scales which are very accurate. The racing scales said my car is 40lbs heavier. Corner Balancing Was Absolutely Necessary! (Factory Five 818 Autocross) ua-cam.com/video/w_brzs9bPIY/v-deo.html
I never drove the car without it so it's hard to compare, but I'd do it again. Car is comfortable for what it is. Still too much engine noise leaking around the firewall though.
@@mikecamera818 Yeah, I had to build custom carbon fiber versions of a Sparco seat to lower and tilt back until my head cleared the roll cage for street driving. If you look, in the GTM, most people's head is right beside the roll cage with a thin layer of foam...
Mold all the aluminum panels & remake them in flat carbon fibre. Then mold the body & do the same. Aluminum control arms & not 1 single uneeded piece. Should bring it to about 700-740kg, with my built motor & a 3076r turbo it should be almost 740hp giving 1:1 hp per kg.. which is the record for production car Koenigsegg holds. 🤞
That sounds like a hell of a car! Beyond my scope and budget but that would be cool to see. I don't think the car would ever hook up with 3x the power. What rpm would you expect full boost on that big of a turbo?
I do race it but it doesn't matter much. The car is named after the weight it's supposed to be 818 = 818kg = 1800lbs. But that's for the convertible. Just thought I'd be closer to a less than 2000lb car.
That would be the next place I look if I decide to cut more weight. They just cost more and I wasn't sure if they were as reliable/had a long life like a typical lead battery.
@@mikecamera818 That's a great place to save weight, but your front rear bias will be even worse. Perhaps you could move the fuel to the front, but you'd have a much better idea of how feasible that is than I would. Also, that sort of thing is for chasing tenths on a race track. You're probably better off spending the money on tires/fuel and having fun....
I've seen a couple people do a custom front mount fuel tank. Yeah my car is on street tires and modest suspension settings. I'm not chasing ultimate track times.
Hey, I would not recommend this as a first car or your only car. It's not waterproof, the doors and windows don't seal well, it's loud, lacks AC and a radio unless you add it, and has zero storage. It would be hard to live with everyday. There's a company called Forma that will build it for you starting at $65k for the convertible. It takes a lot of time to build one.
@@mikecamera818 alright thanks for the advice. Really quickly what do you think is the best car that has a very sporty look (somewhat compared to this one), has AWD and various safety features, and is below 40 grand.
Best looking AWD car under $40k... I have a 16' Mercedes C450 that fits that. The next year they started calling it a C43 AMG. Or a used BMW 240/340/440 with xDrive (means AWD). I test drove an Audi S3 and even though it looks good and is comparable to the other cars I listed, it felt cheap.
@@Anonym05221 A new Mazda3 is going to be your most practical, reliable option probably. Can be had for under $40k easily. $40k should buy you the top of the line version with a turbo.
Not to mention the weight savings from the wiring harness diet. Sound deadening is definitely heavy. I have a box of Killmat in my garage (80 mil) and it's got some heft to it. I think it will be worth it though for a car that will be used on the street. Great video 👍
I actually didn't diet my harness, but I did strip all the gummy tape and covers off of it and replaced it with a nicer plastic wire loom. If I'm lucky maybe it saved a couple pounds. I never drove the car without sound deadening so I have nothing to compare it to, but I like how sturdy my car sounds/feels! Still louder than an average sports car even though I kept the cat on the exhaust to keep things quieter.
@Mike Camera you left all the yellow airbag safety wiring in? I was going to at least delete that stuff. Probably saves a couple pounds. Less to pack into that narrow center tunnel.
I removed a few yellow airbag wires but my donor harness didn't haven't many when I got it. It's not too crammed in the center tunnel but it's tight at the back where it meets the fuel tank. I also relocated a couple fuse boxes to under my dash.
The sound deadening is 100% worth the weight. The sound of rocks hitting the floor and fender liners is painful! Nice build btw 👌
I plan to coat my fender liners before the car's back on the road this Spring. Thanks!
@@mikecamera818 I glued yoga mat to the inside of the fibreglass on the front fenders and then on top of the rear liners I used the proper sound deadening. If I had my time back I’d probably use the yoga mat on the rears too as it’s cheaper and a fraction of the weight.
I've seen people use yoga mat. I was just going to paint on some flex seal. A thin layer of rubber paint.
Cadillac uses a tough felt-like material for sound deadening inside and out and it definitely works better than the old style bedliner type stuff.
Yeah bedliner will work but it's too hard. Something soft should be better. My BMW and Mercedes had the same felt liner in the wheel wells too.
Very cool kit. I am building a Factory Five GTM now. Even though you didn't make your target weight that car is still extremely light! Must be a fun ride.
The GTM looks like an awesome project! It's going to be a blast when you're done. The 818 is so light and responsive. Everything is direct. You'll see with your GTM.
Maybe FF original stated weight of 1800 lbs was "optimistic" in the first place.
It's for the simpler open top version but I think you're right, it's still optimistic
It would be interesting to take it to a race car shop and put it on the scales there. The weight would be to the nearest pound instead of the nearest 100 lbs. Also you could see the corner weights as well.
The CAT scale claims it's accurate to 20lbs which is pretty good for $13. I am debating getting it corner weighted and aligned better at a race shop though to improve the sharpness of the handling.
people will argue like crazy but all of the fastest track cars are rear weight bias a bit less than 60:40 rear biased. F1, F3, Formula V, Indy car. LMP1 cars. C8 z06, 911. It's not just mid engine, it's rear biased mid engine. 50/50 is something to aspire to in a front engine car.
Definitely doesn't hurt to have some extra weight over the drive wheels
Gah! Super cool car, but that's about what a mild diet on an MR2 Spyder/Roadster/MRS weighs, which costs significantly less, has much better aftermarket support, etc.
The bill did add up haha. An MR2 is cheaper but it's also 10-15 years older and still doesn't have 275hp. A new Mustang has 200hp more but is common and weighs twice as much. There are other options but I bought a kit car to have a project and a unique car. I learned so much more over the last 2.5 years than I would have just buying a car. It attracts a lot of attention and I've had some awesome conversations with other car people about it which is fun.
Impressive! Been watching your videos with great interest as I'm working on my own 818s build. Presently I'm fitting and attaching the body panels so am hopeful to be driving this summer. I have also been trying to resolve my EVAP design and really like what you've done. Do you mind sharing the specifics? I'm guessing you just replaced the larger clunkier components and added the smaller unit, then used ROM Raider to delete the EVAP codes?
Yep, I removed the OEM canister/solenoids and put vinyl caps on the open ports on the engine. Then ran a hose from the air vent on my fuel tank to one side of my homemade canister. The hose on the other side of the canister just vents to atmosphere. Canister is made from PVC pipes/fittings, filled with activated charcoal, and I cut out 2 circles of sponge to put inside on each end of the pipe to keep the charcoal from getting out. Deleted any codes with ROM Raider. Works great! FYI I did have to move the canister above my fuel filler because when I filled my gas tank 100%, a little fuel would drip out of the canister hose. Good luck on your build!
Video #5 has a little more info on my canister
ua-cam.com/video/3_zdHifEyCA/v-deo.html
Video #21 shows how it's installed and my fuel drip problem that was an easy fix
ua-cam.com/video/uQ3h5q0WozU/v-deo.html
My build thread has more details about my overall build if you're interested
thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?36902-Camera-s-818C
@@mikecamera818 Very helpful. Thanks so much!
The truck scales are rough and they round up. Go to a metal recycling yard to get within 10 lbs.
The CAT scale wasn't too bad. It's accurate to 20lbs and gave me the weight on the front axle and rear axle.
@@mikecamera818 telling you man. Their purpose is to tell trucks if they are overweight. They round up to avoid liability for overweight citations. I work in the industry. Your car probably isn't that heavy. Super easy to go to a scrap yard and know for sure.
@StatiK2971 I eventually put the car on a set of racing scales which are very accurate. The racing scales said my car is 40lbs heavier.
Corner Balancing Was Absolutely Necessary! (Factory Five 818 Autocross)
ua-cam.com/video/w_brzs9bPIY/v-deo.html
Damn, that sound deadening hurt you. Probably well worth it though.
I never drove the car without it so it's hard to compare, but I'd do it again. Car is comfortable for what it is. Still too much engine noise leaking around the firewall though.
Factory Five 952C
I should cut the roof off to get back to the convertible's 818kg
@@mikecamera818 I had to cut the halo off of my Gen II GTM and slightly lower it to keep it from hitting the body. FFR life.
You have more than a short roll bar above you?!
@@mikecamera818 Yeah, I had to build custom carbon fiber versions of a Sparco seat to lower and tilt back until my head cleared the roll cage for street driving. If you look, in the GTM, most people's head is right beside the roll cage with a thin layer of foam...
Mold all the aluminum panels & remake them in flat carbon fibre. Then mold the body & do the same. Aluminum control arms & not 1 single uneeded piece. Should bring it to about 700-740kg, with my built motor & a 3076r turbo it should be almost 740hp giving 1:1 hp per kg.. which is the record for production car Koenigsegg holds. 🤞
That sounds like a hell of a car! Beyond my scope and budget but that would be cool to see. I don't think the car would ever hook up with 3x the power. What rpm would you expect full boost on that big of a turbo?
if your not racing it or doing pinks does it really matter enjoy the kit
I do race it but it doesn't matter much. The car is named after the weight it's supposed to be 818 = 818kg = 1800lbs. But that's for the convertible. Just thought I'd be closer to a less than 2000lb car.
Did you include the bed liner along with the sound deadening or did you not think of it?
I didn't include the bed liner. I mixed 3 quarts but didn't use it all. Maybe 4 lbs.
You may want to upgrade to a lithium ion racing battery. will save allot of weight
That would be the next place I look if I decide to cut more weight. They just cost more and I wasn't sure if they were as reliable/had a long life like a typical lead battery.
@@mikecamera818 That's a great place to save weight, but your front rear bias will be even worse. Perhaps you could move the fuel to the front, but you'd have a much better idea of how feasible that is than I would.
Also, that sort of thing is for chasing tenths on a race track. You're probably better off spending the money on tires/fuel and having fun....
I've seen a couple people do a custom front mount fuel tank. Yeah my car is on street tires and modest suspension settings. I'm not chasing ultimate track times.
This is amazing! Do you guys can make them road legal? Here in Italy regulations for vehicles are insanely strict
Yes it's road legal! In the United States, the regulations are different for each state. My state (Kentucky) was very easy.
Do you have the washer bottle and battery in the back? Hard to tell but it looked like it.
Those are in the front.
More details in this video of my build series: ua-cam.com/video/7a5JDHpRjqU/v-deo.html
Cross weights?
No cross weights yet. Maybe in the spring if I do a better corner weight / alignment.
Sweet!
I’ve never heard of a steel radiator.
Yeah my mistake. I think the OEM one is aluminum with plastic end tanks. They just always feel heavier.
Thinking about getting this. 2 questions. Do you think this is a good first car? Can you buy a version of this that is already built?
Hey, I would not recommend this as a first car or your only car. It's not waterproof, the doors and windows don't seal well, it's loud, lacks AC and a radio unless you add it, and has zero storage. It would be hard to live with everyday.
There's a company called Forma that will build it for you starting at $65k for the convertible. It takes a lot of time to build one.
@@mikecamera818 alright thanks for the advice. Really quickly what do you think is the best car that has a very sporty look (somewhat compared to this one), has AWD and various safety features, and is below 40 grand.
Best looking AWD car under $40k... I have a 16' Mercedes C450 that fits that. The next year they started calling it a C43 AMG. Or a used BMW 240/340/440 with xDrive (means AWD).
I test drove an Audi S3 and even though it looks good and is comparable to the other cars I listed, it felt cheap.
@@Anonym05221 A new Mazda3 is going to be your most practical, reliable option probably. Can be had for under $40k easily. $40k should buy you the top of the line version with a turbo.