I install the header before the trimmer to avoid the blowout in the rock. You can smack it upward instead of from the side. You can cut a slight relief angle off the end of the header so as not to dig in to the king stud so much, knocking it out of whack.
Thanks for this. Had to widen a closet door so my wife could get her wheelchair through (all the doorways in my house, constructed in 2005, are 36" except for the walk-in closet doors in our bedroom and that is really annoying) and this helped me get through doing that.
You do very little wrong! I'm always impressed how nicely you cut the drywall, existing header and studs and then perfectly fit in the new pieces! amazing! You are so good!
I already knew how to do this from a technical standpoint. But I had no idea it could be done that cleanly. I'm a "sledgehammer first, fix it later" kinda guy.
a pro tip for making headers always rip your plywood a good quarter inch less than the header width. The logic is that the header stock will most definitely shrink with age / drying out and the plywood will not it’s not much but good to know when building strong houses. Thanks for the videos man
I always do that, but only because I'm not precise about cutting the plywood and I don't want some crap sticking out somewhere. Now I can tell people I have a real reason lol.
great job, when I did a carpenter's apprenticeship, I was taught to stagger the nails and never nail lumber in a straight line like you can see you did to the header when you nailed it together (7:56) I'm sure it will be fine, but I would put at least one more spike and I would have staggered them more and not nailed the 3 in a straight line in the middle like you did
Yeah, screwing or nailing in a straight line is bad practice because it puts all the force along the same length of grain and can cause splitting of the board.
Bingo. I'm building a small 2 story deck right now. Framer friend of mine came by the job site and asked why I had clamps out.... and why I was using 16ths. My helper told me later, you should get him a tape measure that only has whole inches on it 🤣
I enjoy your videos, and I applaud your tidy work. Always impressive. I would recommend adding more nails to your header. A rule of thumb I’ve always heard is to put one nail for every 2" of dimensional lumber. So for a 2x6, it would be three nails top to bottom every 16". Also do so from both sides of the header so it stays together before installing it and toe nailing through the jacks into the bottom.
You are seriously hilarious and so darn talented. I love someone's swinging door idea. I don't know much about carpentry but know alot about doing laundry! Love your videos!
Good work Richard👍, you did just fine! I just did the same thing on my garage a week ago. I put in a door on the side wall of my garage. Yep, just superimpose the framing component as necessary into the existing framing. Now when it comes to finish carpentry - I'd probably let you do that 😎
I am impressed you used the proper terminology (king stud, header, cripple) even though you are not a framing carpenter. You must have had some experience at framing.
It might be different in Texas, but typically the door from the garage to the house, laundry room, needs to be fire rated solid core door. If you ever have a fire, the insurance company might make an issue of it. Yeah, this framer is chuckling at your header fabrication. And you would probably get a chuckle out of my crown moulding fabrication. Much of what I know about crown mould came from you. Thanks. 👍
Same in Philly. The lady I bought my house from had an opening between the cinder block walls going to the garage w a bullshit hollow wood foor that was really thin. I grabbed a circular saw with a masonry blade and ran a line right down the blocks to extend the door and replaced it w a solid fire rated, wider, door.
I'm gonna go out on a limb and say just about every county and city has a similar building code, and here in my part of Canada, you cannot get occupancy permits without the self-closing fire-rated garage door. A lot of homeowners just remove the self closing mechanism after they move in.
I'm putting in a 32" door where a 28" is so this video is very useful. Bought the door in December, now warm enough to do the job as my garage is unheated and this is the passage to the dining room.
A header on that wall is not required per say as the roof load goes to the outside wall as evident when you did the laundry ceiling. Also, when you cut the studs there was zero load present. The wider door will be very convenient. Looking forward to how you trim it out.
I searched and found your video as I need to open up my pantry door. I also need to raise the height to the ceiling. I'm going to install shelves and the space above the door to the ceiling would be wasted otherwise. Let me know if you do a video showing this.. Thanks for the video. You did a great job.
You're turning the king into a jack, not a cripple. But really, potato, potahto. And as someone who does a lot of framing *and* finishing, I'm not gonna laugh at you for using clamps on your header, i'm gonna give you a 👍
Long time watcher first time commenter…… Is there anything you can’t do? I must say this channel is the BEST!! Knowledgeable begging for a like or a Sub and to the point with usually no just one solution but sometimes several.. you should give etiquette and editing lessons to others… maybe it’s easy for me to criticize and I have nothing on UA-cam, however, I am wise enough not to put out junk!! So thank you my my friend for being you and bringing value to UA-cam.. keep up the excellent work you truly are mastering your craft!! Feeling Inspired! Regards, Sean
@3:16 LOL. That was funny. But the first clue that it's load bearing is that the saw gets stuck! 🤣 @5:12 That miter saw's dust collection looks impressive.
I might specialize in framing but I can also do flawless finish work. If you wouldn't want it in your house don't leave it in someone else's is the way I see it
For something like the drywall cutting you did obviously what you did worked great and looked great and was a nice even cut but as a younger builder I prefer to just use a multi tool as it is seems faster and effortless to me. My boss saw me do this and scoffed at me Ans told you do not use a multi tool for drywall lol what’re your thoughts on this
Just started researching how to do this. I want to open up an external doorway in an old shed to accept a standard external door+frame ... so that I don't need to make a door+frame.
😎 crown molding video , brilliant 😁. I once had this guy comment on my lack of ability to spell correctly and he was very nasty about it so commented how wonderful and great his ability to be able to write and his ability to put together sentences. So I asked him if paid people to build his home or repair his car or weld anything he needed or paint his car or repair his electrical or repair his air conditioning or repair his plumbing. Total silence 😎
Hi. My real name is Drew. I am 66 and will start redoing some molding in my home. I don’t want to pre-drill the molding and use finish nails my back won’t take it. I will also be helping my son. Can you recommend a nailer for me to buy. I am a DIY and will use it once in a while. I just can’t spend a ton of money one one. I also have a 30 year old craftsman miter saw. Do you know if there are any companies that can align the blade? I tried with only failure. If there are what would I look under? BTW you are the best finish carpenter I have ever seen. Thank you for your channel.
Richard you cut thru rough framing in one foul swoop and immediately lift the blade while its spinning, no need to do the ol'double cut then wait for the blade to stop. Lol. Good job
So, Richard, how's the Makita miter saw working out? Pretty well I guess, since you still have it. Any issues with "concave" cuts or other issues with the rail system alignment?
I need this so bad. I swear, my house framers were drunk. The plans called for the front door, arch between the living room and dining room, and the patio doors to be centered. CENTERED. So what did they do? They lined up one side on all three frames! But the frames are all different sizes. Six feet, seven feet and five feet. I've figured out that if i can enlarge the five foot arch to six feet it'll line up with the patio doors and be good enough for the front door. Right now it's so obviously off. This tutorial will save me a fortune and so much stress. Now I just have to figure out how to save my master bathroom from it's framing disaster. As of right now, the only option I can see is to demolish two whole walls. smh And these are the framing mistakes I didn't catch during the build. I caught several bad ones during the build and the builder battled me on every one, but I won those fights. Electrician fought me on two big ones that I refused to budge on. I gave in on so many things that I shouldn't have. Plans exist for a reason, people. They're NOT suggestions.
Question: if the opening was 24” and you add 6 1/4”, that gives you 30 1/4”, then you add a stud on the opposite side giving you just 28 3/4”. All doors require an extra 2” for jambs. Your thumbnail says going from 24” to 36”. Am I missing something??
I never heard him say the opening was 24". He said after removing everything he had an opening of 42" that he wasn't worried about causing anything to come crashing down. He cut the new header at 36 1/8". That rests on a jack stud on each side that takes away 3" total leaving him with a rough opening on 33 1/8". He then added another jack stud to the one side to bring it out from the wall enough for his trim later. That took away another 1 1/2" from his opening leaving him with total rough opening of 31 5/8". The door jam is about 3/4" that will take up an 1 1/2" leaving him with 30 1/8" for the door. That will leave him with 1/16" for each side.
@@lorenrickey5481 Must be a typo in the thumb nail. In the video he said he is putting in a 30" door which is a pretty standard size for interior doors. 36" doors are typically used for exterior doors. Based on his measurements he used is right in line with a 30" door. Based on his header being 36 1/8" and deducting 3 1/5" for the king studs he is left with a 31 5/8" rough opening. A standard 30" pre-hung door has a total width of 31 9/16". He has an extra 1/16" width at 31 5/8".
As someome that is required to make compound miter cuts for window/door frames on a near daily basis due to shoddy framing layouts, the comment made at 6 minutes resonates with me. The blame doesn't lie solely on framers in my case, though. Production management favors speed at the expense of quality.
A lot of framing issues come up from the foundation as well. It's up to the framer to build a square and level house on whatever the formers got up to before us. Unfortunately lots of framers don't feel like like that's their job
“When you do your crown molding video let me know 😎” lmaoooo
Yeah... Savage 😂
That's why I'm here, not for the great carpentry work :)
Lmfao 😎🤣
Fuckin gangster!!!😂 Love this guy.
That was so good 😂😂😂😂😂
I install the header before the trimmer to avoid the blowout in the rock. You can smack it upward instead of from the side. You can cut a slight relief angle off the end of the header so as not to dig in to the king stud so much, knocking it out of whack.
haven't done it but I was wondering if that would work
Can you make a video next ..
Hahaha… holler at me when you do crown! I busted out laughing! Love the channel man!
Now I want a digital level!
What I appreciate is that you find time to do this at home after what I'm sure is a long day of doing this at work. Much respect.
Thanks for this. Had to widen a closet door so my wife could get her wheelchair through (all the doorways in my house, constructed in 2005, are 36" except for the walk-in closet doors in our bedroom and that is really annoying) and this helped me get through doing that.
You do very little wrong! I'm always impressed how nicely you cut the drywall, existing header and studs and then perfectly fit in the new pieces! amazing! You are so good!
yeah thumbs up for that keyhole saw work. I would've scored and snapped the main part, but the cut looked impossibly clean.
"If this doesnt work, then the next video will be "rebuilding the back half of my house."" I laughed pretty hard at that.
Funny
I think we all did. His demeanor made it hilarious
I had to like the video in that moment lol
I already knew how to do this from a technical standpoint. But I had no idea it could be done that cleanly. I'm a "sledgehammer first, fix it later" kinda guy.
So freaking timely, I was just staring at my door wondering how to do this!
It’s the algorithm. You think it….it provides.
@@719vol 😂😂😂
Make the door a swinging door so you can easily go in and out with hands full of stuff. Get some nice trick hidden swinging hardware.
Man every video I watch it’s so helpful, yet humorous!! The comment about framers was hilarious! Keep the videos coming! 💪🏻
a pro tip for making headers always rip your plywood a good quarter inch less than the header width. The logic is that the header stock will most definitely shrink with age / drying out and the plywood will not it’s not much but good to know when building strong houses. Thanks for the videos man
I always do that, but only because I'm not precise about cutting the plywood and I don't want some crap sticking out somewhere. Now I can tell people I have a real reason lol.
@@jamesowens3587 🤣🤣🤣 👏
It probably some builders or framers gonna be laughing at me... but when you do your crown molding video let me know.. haha that was the best part 😹
great job, when I did a carpenter's apprenticeship, I was taught to stagger the nails and never nail lumber in a straight line like you can see you did to the header when you nailed it together (7:56) I'm sure it will be fine, but I would put at least one more spike and I would have staggered them more and not nailed the 3 in a straight line in the middle like you did
Yeah, screwing or nailing in a straight line is bad practice because it puts all the force along the same length of grain and can cause splitting of the board.
Yknow I was just looking at my backyard thinking if I wanted to do a deck or roller coaster myself. Can’t wait for that vid!
“ we’ll obviously be rebuilding the back half of my house “ 😂 ☠️
I NEED that level!
Ask any finish carpenter to frame something and it'll get done, ask a framer to do some finishing and get ready to buy a lot more materials... 😉
Any idiot can frame a door opening.
Bingo.
I'm building a small 2 story deck right now. Framer friend of mine came by the job site and asked why I had clamps out.... and why I was using 16ths. My helper told me later, you should get him a tape measure that only has whole inches on it 🤣
You could've put header in first then set your jack in and hit the jack in place which will push the header up in place. But all in all, great job
I enjoy your videos, and I applaud your tidy work. Always impressive. I would recommend adding more nails to your header. A rule of thumb I’ve always heard is to put one nail for every 2" of dimensional lumber. So for a 2x6, it would be three nails top to bottom every 16". Also do so from both sides of the header so it stays together before installing it and toe nailing through the jacks into the bottom.
You the Man!! Thanks for always keeping us educated and entertained. 👍🏻
You are seriously hilarious and so darn talented. I love someone's swinging door idea. I don't know much about carpentry but know alot about doing laundry! Love your videos!
Good work Richard👍, you did just fine! I just did the same thing on my garage a week ago. I put in a door on the side wall of my garage. Yep, just superimpose the framing component as necessary into the existing framing.
Now when it comes to finish carpentry - I'd probably let you do that 😎
I love this channel. The level of knowledge and experience is awesome to watch in practice. I don’t know shit about building anything.
I am impressed you used the proper terminology (king stud, header, cripple) even though you are not a framing carpenter. You must have had some experience at framing.
the correct term for his "cripples" are jacks. cripples are the little ones above the header that extend to the top plate.
@@1012ube Probably accurate but many folks and framers use cripples term for both types.
Superb video and straight to the main course! It's been a delight watching all your vids and seeing all the new subscribers coming in toooo
A finished trim guy, now a framer……… is that like a singer trying to be a actor or vice versa . Enjoyed that Smirk
More nails in the header, top and bottom, to resist cupping is my only critique! Nice work
Thank great video, And thank you for not using a oscillating saw to cut sheet rock.
Hahaha, spat my coffee out at the crown moulding comment, absolute gold
It might be different in Texas, but typically the door from the garage to the house, laundry room, needs to be fire rated solid core door. If you ever have a fire, the insurance company might make an issue of it.
Yeah, this framer is chuckling at your header fabrication. And you would probably get a chuckle out of my crown moulding fabrication. Much of what I know about crown mould came from you. Thanks. 👍
Same in Philly. The lady I bought my house from had an opening between the cinder block walls going to the garage w a bullshit hollow wood foor that was really thin.
I grabbed a circular saw with a masonry blade and ran a line right down the blocks to extend the door and replaced it w a solid fire rated, wider, door.
Code only says doors to garages need to be fire rated.
@@jstimen1906 and be self closing.
I'm gonna go out on a limb and say just about every county and city has a similar building code, and here in my part of Canada, you cannot get occupancy permits without the self-closing fire-rated garage door. A lot of homeowners just remove the self closing mechanism after they move in.
Same in West Aus. Solid door to garage but no self close.
Can’t wait to see the roller coaster!!)
I cannot wait for the pool and rollercoaster videos.
Laughed a few times in this video lol. I can’t wait to own my own house and renovate something for myself for a change.
5:55 Needed the sunglasses, the spliff, and the Snoop Dog song to be edited into the video. 😂😂
🤣 Exactly!
I'm putting in a 32" door where a 28" is so this video is very useful. Bought the door in December, now warm enough to do the job as my garage is unheated and this is the passage to the dining room.
Can't wait for the rollercoaster!
A header on that wall is not required per say as the roof load goes to the outside wall as evident when you did the laundry ceiling. Also, when you cut the studs there was zero load present. The wider door will be very convenient. Looking forward to how you trim it out.
It is if you live in an area where there is earthquakes.
@@rubenllamas5644 as is your qualified to judge my knowledge.
@@stevenfoust3782 I’m a GC in California so I’m ganna hope the knowledge I have is correct or else my city inspectors wouldn’t approve my work😅.
That's why it was a 2x6 not a 2x12
@@stevenfoust3782 ad hominem. You did not respond to his specific comment but somehow take offense instead.
Your videos are the
Best !
The humor makes these all the better for me.
I searched and found your video as I need to open up my pantry door. I also need to raise the height to the ceiling. I'm going to install shelves and the space above the door to the ceiling would be wasted otherwise. Let me know if you do a video showing this.. Thanks for the video. You did a great job.
"The next video will be rebuilding the back of the house" was hilarious!
I’m curious what you are going to do with the finished floor that now have a visible gap
You're turning the king into a jack, not a cripple. But really, potato, potahto. And as someone who does a lot of framing *and* finishing, I'm not gonna laugh at you for using clamps on your header, i'm gonna give you a 👍
Top of the (decapitated!) king became a cripple, bottom became a jack. It was like the work of a guillotine in the French Revolution.
Lol 😆 🤣 dig joke at framers was pretty funny
How did you re-nail all the studs on top of the header? Was it just butted to the top plate?
I believe he said he was going to toe nail from the header back into the studs. I didn't see him do it though
love your sense of humor
Always great to see your videos. Keep them coming man.
how well has the dust collectoin been for you on the makita miter saw?
Long time watcher first time commenter……
Is there anything you can’t do? I must say this channel is the BEST!! Knowledgeable begging for a like or a
Sub and to the point with usually no just one solution but sometimes several.. you should give etiquette and editing lessons to others… maybe it’s easy for me to criticize and I have nothing on UA-cam, however, I am wise enough not to put out junk!! So thank you my my friend for being you and bringing value to UA-cam.. keep up the excellent work you truly are mastering your craft!!
Feeling Inspired!
Regards,
Sean
That’s what I like about, you never take yourself to serious. Good job, I’m sure you’ll get someone telling you that you screwed up or how they did it
If you have a floor below , you may get a bit of deflection, as it may not have proper weight transfer once you move the load point.
Looked good. Hanging the door is my source of frustration. Hate ghost doors and had too many.
I enjoy your sense of humour
Good job bro. You're the best!.
Nice work. Maybe a pocket door though for a situation like that?
Agreed, that would have been perfection for that situation.
made me laugh your comment about crown molding 😀 Excellent door framing. That red nailer is a beast
Nice video. I'm expanding a closet soon. This helps a lot. Thank you.
Can't wait to see the pool and roller coaster installation.
Hey I’m curious of how did you screw the left king stud into the top plate because it seems hard to reach due to the sheetrock in the way
He pre drilled screw holes and I pre set the screws. I imagine he would have needed a longer bit or a bit extension to set the screws, totally doable.
Just turn your drill upside down. Totally doable.
Are there alternatives to Windsor One in Houston? Not sure why no one is carrying this product in Houston. Thank you
Excited for that roller coaster!
@3:16 LOL. That was funny. But the first clue that it's load bearing is that the saw gets stuck! 🤣 @5:12 That miter saw's dust collection looks impressive.
"And I'll just line it uggggh" 😆
It probably some builders or framers gonna be laughing at me... but when you do your crown molding video let me know.. haha that was the best part 😹
I might specialize in framing but I can also do flawless finish work. If you wouldn't want it in your house don't leave it in someone else's is the way I see it
Awesome! Thanks!
Haha the crown molding comment was gold buddy! 🤣
Not load bearing? How did he determine there's no load on it (before putting the sawzall on it) ?
Love your sense of humor and the channel...meh. ; -) keep up the good work!
Did that “king stud” actually go all the way to the top plate?
I mean Oscillating Multi Tool. Everyone is using them for everything. Thank you
I just would have put the cripple in after the header . but it all came out so all good..
Good job Rich.
"when you are going to shoot your crown moulding video let me know" now that was damn funny!!!!
For something like the drywall cutting you did obviously what you did worked great and looked great and was a nice even cut but as a younger builder I prefer to just use a multi tool as it is seems faster and effortless to me. My boss saw me do this and scoffed at me Ans told you do not use a multi tool for drywall lol what’re your thoughts on this
I'd say he went with the pad saw to keep the dust to a minimum, 🔨 🇮🇪
Just started researching how to do this. I want to open up an external doorway in an old shed to accept a standard external door+frame ... so that I don't need to make a door+frame.
You did OK... better than most…
I’m a framer by trade turned trim carpenter… I definitely have picked up a few tips from you.
😎 crown molding video , brilliant 😁. I once had this guy comment on my lack of ability to spell correctly and he was very nasty about it so commented how wonderful and great his ability to be able to write and his ability to put together sentences. So I asked him if paid people to build his home or repair his car or weld anything he needed or paint his car or repair his electrical or repair his air conditioning or repair his plumbing. Total silence 😎
Hi. My real name is Drew. I am 66 and will start redoing some molding in my home. I don’t want to pre-drill the molding and use finish nails my back won’t take it. I will also be helping my son. Can you recommend a nailer for me to buy. I am a DIY and will use it once in a while. I just can’t spend a ton of money one one. I also have a 30 year old craftsman miter saw. Do you know if there are any companies that can align the blade? I tried with only failure. If there are what would I look under? BTW you are the best finish carpenter I have ever seen. Thank you for your channel.
Your jokes always have me rolling! 😂
Wondering…are you available to be loaned out?
Hahaha 🤣 🤣
When you said "..... when you do your crown molding video, lemme know!" I thought - Scott Brown (cough)
"but when you do the crown moulding, let me know..." I like what you you said LOL
what is the aproximate cost of expanding a door in 2023 in Ontario , Canada ?
it's so nice not having to listen to that awful ramp up noise from the dewalt guns anymore.
You have to get the makita drywall cutter!
Or other than the knife. I use an osscillating tool /buzz saw.
Can't wait for the roller-coaster install video
So when are you doing a video on that sweet pool and coaster? 😂
Richard you cut thru rough framing in one foul swoop and immediately lift the blade while its spinning, no need to do the ol'double cut then wait for the blade to stop. Lol. Good job
Try making some exterior ornamentation
So, Richard, how's the Makita miter saw working out? Pretty well I guess, since you still have it. Any issues with "concave" cuts or other issues with the rail system alignment?
did ya get the pool and roller coaster installed:?😂
Richard que Crack 7:57 😂
Eres un master!
I need this so bad. I swear, my house framers were drunk. The plans called for the front door, arch between the living room and dining room, and the patio doors to be centered.
CENTERED.
So what did they do? They lined up one side on all three frames! But the frames are all different sizes. Six feet, seven feet and five feet. I've figured out that if i can enlarge the five foot arch to six feet it'll line up with the patio doors and be good enough for the front door. Right now it's so obviously off.
This tutorial will save me a fortune and so much stress.
Now I just have to figure out how to save my master bathroom from it's framing disaster. As of right now, the only option I can see is to demolish two whole walls. smh
And these are the framing mistakes I didn't catch during the build. I caught several bad ones during the build and the builder battled me on every one, but I won those fights. Electrician fought me on two big ones that I refused to budge on. I gave in on so many things that I shouldn't have.
Plans exist for a reason, people. They're NOT suggestions.
Love the smartass pop on the framers.
Can you do this on a brick house ?
Question: if the opening was 24” and you add 6 1/4”, that gives you 30 1/4”, then you add a stud on the opposite side giving you just 28 3/4”. All doors require an extra 2” for jambs. Your thumbnail says going from 24” to 36”. Am I missing something??
That’s the “relaxed” measurement…
I never heard him say the opening was 24". He said after removing everything he had an opening of 42" that he wasn't worried about causing anything to come crashing down. He cut the new header at 36 1/8". That rests on a jack stud on each side that takes away 3" total leaving him with a rough opening on 33 1/8". He then added another jack stud to the one side to bring it out from the wall enough for his trim later. That took away another 1 1/2" from his opening leaving him with total rough opening of 31 5/8". The door jam is about 3/4" that will take up an 1 1/2" leaving him with 30 1/8" for the door. That will leave him with 1/16" for each side.
@@johnlyn1 I was referring to his thumbnail photo. It shows going from 24” opening to a 36” opening and that’s why I questioned his measurements.
Yea I caught that also he's hanging a 30 inch door he needs 32 R/O 82 1/2 head height unless he cut door down ???
@@lorenrickey5481 Must be a typo in the thumb nail. In the video he said he is putting in a 30" door which is a pretty standard size for interior doors. 36" doors are typically used for exterior doors. Based on his measurements he used is right in line with a 30" door. Based on his header being 36 1/8" and deducting 3 1/5" for the king studs he is left with a 31 5/8" rough opening. A standard 30" pre-hung door has a total width of 31 9/16". He has an extra 1/16" width at 31 5/8".
As someome that is required to make compound miter cuts for window/door frames on a near daily basis due to shoddy framing layouts, the comment made at 6 minutes resonates with me.
The blame doesn't lie solely on framers in my case, though. Production management favors speed at the expense of quality.
A lot of framing issues come up from the foundation as well. It's up to the framer to build a square and level house on whatever the formers got up to before us. Unfortunately lots of framers don't feel like like that's their job
good job Richard