Hi BigTallTim, good clear instruction and well filmed. 1 question could this be applied to my rear brake drum, rusty covers? I was told brush em down and apply hammerite paint, but wondered if this would also do the job?
Hi DJ - Much appreciated, and thanks for watching! In a word, No - this is definitely not the product for anything that gets hot! Some of the hammerite paints can withstand more temperature than others, but with this one you need to be very conscious of the fact that it contains a kind of oil that stays liquid! Definitely a fire risk if used near brakes! Have a look at the Hammerite High Heat paints instead - available in a rattle can, so super easy to apply! :)
@@bigtalltim Good advive Tim, i ll def take on board what you ve said, and source the high heat paints, and in spray cans, easy life!! Much appreciated, and Thanks for your prompt reply...
Hi! Remember that this is only a temporary measure to stop it getting worse until you have time to strip it back to the metal, properly rust proof it, and finish it with a longer term underseal. Jet washes don’t touch it - the surface skins over so no issues there… this buys you a few months - not a long term fix
Ok I was planning to use the jelly rust remover and the prime and then finish with a underseal, is there any you can recommend? I don’t have severe rust it just surface ruse in small areas such as high impact areas
If you strip back to metal with the gel, I’d recommend Kurust or similar to convert any remaining surface flash rush before priming, but yep - spot on! Priming then using a good underseal will keep you right
I prefer Vactan as it converts and primes all in one without washing off afterwards with water, followed by enamel paint the next day then Lanoguard a week later. Then you can see if any rust is coming back through.
Hi BigTallTim, good clear instruction and well filmed. 1 question could this be applied to my rear brake drum, rusty covers? I was told brush em down and apply hammerite paint, but wondered if this would also do the job?
Hi DJ - Much appreciated, and thanks for watching! In a word, No - this is definitely not the product for anything that gets hot! Some of the hammerite paints can withstand more temperature than others, but with this one you need to be very conscious of the fact that it contains a kind of oil that stays liquid! Definitely a fire risk if used near brakes! Have a look at the Hammerite High Heat paints instead - available in a rattle can, so super easy to apply! :)
@@bigtalltim Good advive Tim, i ll def take on board what you ve said, and source the high heat paints, and in spray cans, easy life!! Much appreciated, and Thanks for your prompt reply...
Should you place can in hot water before using or is that just for the Waxoyl in a tin?
That’s just the stuff in a tin when you need to prep it for a spray gun - this will spray straight from the rattle can 👌
hows it performing? plus how does it perform when you have the car wash will the jet wash end up washing it off?
Hi! Remember that this is only a temporary measure to stop it getting worse until you have time to strip it back to the metal, properly rust proof it, and finish it with a longer term underseal. Jet washes don’t touch it - the surface skins over so no issues there… this buys you a few months - not a long term fix
Ok I was planning to use the jelly rust remover and the prime and then finish with a underseal, is there any you can recommend? I don’t have severe rust it just surface ruse in small areas such as high impact areas
If you strip back to metal with the gel, I’d recommend Kurust or similar to convert any remaining surface flash rush before priming, but yep - spot on! Priming then using a good underseal will keep you right
I prefer Vactan as it converts and primes all in one without washing off afterwards with water, followed by enamel paint the next day then Lanoguard a week later. Then you can see if any rust is coming back through.
@@nssonsmotors2470finish it with a coat of lanoguard!