I Ordered A 35lb Bow & Received A 23lb Bow 😳 (Deerseeker 54" reflex deflex bow Review)
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- Опубліковано 26 лис 2020
- The deerseeker reflex deflex longbow is a great bow that is off on the specs by a lot.
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The bow is part of the Black Friday sale line. 12 pounds off
Lol
If you want a fair speed comparison for different poundage bows, just use 10gpp arrow on every bow.
Hi kramer, I also reviewed the bow. I talked to deerseeker and they said they have improved the measuring method and they measure at where you hold the handle. mine is 62.5lb at the back but 72lb @ the belly. so 70lb at the position where you start to hold the handle. i think it's one of those things where they need to communicate to customers clearly and improve their quality control. also the product title is just hilarious, like youtube tags lol
This is what I had heard from you was this same speech in your review of the newer fix to the bows.
@@caseysmith544 yes
@@caseysmith544 im glad deerseeker is a company that cares about their products. ive dealt with many other chinese companies that dont care, and will rip you off no matter what.
@@HistoricalWeapons This is why there are from same sellers on E-Bay several of the all Black all nylon unbranded right and left arrow rest recurved longbow takedown $33.99-$41.99 bows with a few at $50.99-$59.98. Known first as a model sold through Toparchery on both E-Bay and Amazon that due to some being 35# or #45 pound will sell those pounds sperate as well from the Standard 20# 30# and 40# bows for another that. Only one guy is testing the bows for the proper weight on E-bay as he has the 35# and 45# bows as well as the standard weights so his selling is the only one I would trust right now. The bow looks decent but what Scares me is where the bow could fail on parts due in part to the low prices. They do call it right not a true Recurve by most of the sellers, they either say flatbow or recurved longbow with a few calling it a Deflex flat bow. The Bow is not the Flatbow takedown with wood riser, that bow I would buy for only the riser if they made a lefty style and replace the crappy limbs with much safer ones.
@@caseysmith544 Toparchery is not the same company
Hi Kramer. Basically, I suspect what you need to be looking at is energy per draw weight. It's a squared relationship to velocity, E = mv^2. So try squaring your average velocity, multiplying it by the rrow weight, and then dividing by the draw weight.
I'm gonna go write that down. You sir deserve a rare feather. Seek out the Columbian sharptail of the Pacific Northwest grasslands. Find that tail, and let me know what you think...
Kinetic energy is 1/2 mass times velocity squared, so to compare pounds pull to arrow speed, the arrow speed would be squared. Thanks for the videos! 10:00
Giving a shout-out from Tennessee just wanted to throw out there and advertise this guy's skills at making bow strings definitely help me last 3 months with the videos as I am a beginner they're right 44 years old LOL want to do it back my twenties but you know complications yeah that's what's up what's up Kramer hope you had a good weekend
Just bought one of these bows for my wife and the draw weight is spot on. Hers has an all white logo so I’m assuming it’s one of the “new & improved” versions. I’m really picky and have been very impressed at the build quality and overall performance of this bow. The string isn’t the best but will work for now. The stringer is okay while the rest of the accessories are basically junk. Didn’t buy it for the accessories though. Awesome bow for a really great price. It’s a keeper!
Good work Kramer.
Kramer, the math gets pretty complicated for determining arrow speed. Since there is wood, it isn't a straight forward equation you can use because organic material is very inconsistent. Higher density woods, and thicker limbs all play a factor since it affects mass and tiller, as you probably know. Bow design also plays a huge factor in efficiency. That said, most people go with a general rule of grain per pound as an indicator for arrow speed. 10 grain per pound will usually get you between 160 and 180 fps depending on bow design, draw length and bow materials. This one getting 160 fps is really good if you had a heavier arrow weight, but if it was at 10 grain per pound, that means it is probably less efficient for this draw weight.
I have really enjoyed this series too Kramer. Keep it up!
I like a bargain, but you get what you pay for, and you need to know what you are looking for. I have been only shooting Back Yard / Bare Bow Archery for 7 months again now, You Know when they started quarantine and my job shut down for 4 months, LOL. So I went out and bought a Fleetwood Monarch 45# take down. I used to shoot bows like that back in the 1970's and early 80's. I bought a 20 some year old Proline compound bow and striped off the compound limb set up. I put on 60# limbs, and with a little help from a 3D printer I added 25 pound limbs in front to make a 80 pound FALL Bow. I use a Whisker Bisquit as an arrow rest, and I fricking love it. It shoots at 192 fps with 800 grain arrows. It shoots smooth like a longbow even though its a quad recurve. I built me a homemade string jig and make my own strings which is fun as hell. I tune my own arrows, and fletch them. I use a 6 feather fletching as it assists the arrows to fly more accurate. I have been experimenting with ILF hunting, and Long Bow designs. I just built a 72" ILF Longbow where I use a 25" Riser with 60# extra long limbs. It pulls 48 pounds at 28" draw, and at my 26.5 its basically 45 which is very smooth for a target bow. I am looking next at putting the short ILF limbs on a 15" Riser to make around a 70 pound hunting set up.
So much verse in the ILF world, although more expensive.
I agree with you on the Tab issue, and armguard and so forth. If you want to buy inexpensive, then Buy the Bow. Buy the tabs, gloves, accessories separate. It is unlikely that you are going to get a package deal that has all the things that are usable and will fit your needs or shooting style. If you have never shot archery ever before, take yourself to an archery shop, and get a good look at things first. If it feels like you are in a used car dealership (Leave). A good shop will listen to what you want to do and then advise, not hit you with the sales pitch 30 seconds in.
Keep watching this guy, and a few others on bow/archery issues. They have good advise.
Happy Shooting from the Bow Wizard in Cheyenne Wyoming. Haratio Fales.
Can you set a time skip so people can watch the part of the clip they want to watch thanks😊
I bought their 62" Recurve 60 lb bow and I've been pretty happy with it
I find this series insanely beneficial. I'm looking to get more traditional bows eventually try and maybe even owning one of each style. I already own a compound bow since that's what I was taught to shoot on but I would like to eventually get a recurve and longbow hoping to not break the bank too much since I don't really know what I'm supposed to be looking for these reviews have been very helpful to me especially the black hunter longbow, that's been the one I've been looking at the most out of your reviews. Thanks again Kramer and I look forward to the next two!
I want to say your review system is perfect. This is a big help to so many people. Very entertaining. Very informative. Thank you. Happy holidays
Thank you.
Plot twist: Your wife wanted the bow so much, that she called the company and had them mark a 23lbs bow as 35lbs and send that to you. Because she knew that you would give it to her then.
Love your videos! Never stop creating dude ❤️!🏹
I got the Samick Sage because it felt good in my hand. No sharp edges on the grip. I use a release.
One way to fix the string slap is by fixing the way you shoot. I shoot 100lb bows and up and never had the problem. Only when I was young and first got into archery and bow hunting
I agree it’s about form. However it’s also about about brace height, I recently broke a bowstring and had to make a new one. As I was figuring out what brave height was right for my bow I shot it at around the right brace for a couple days to see how much the string would stretch, and I had to twist my string consistently because it was stretching a little, when it was long it was slapping a inch and a half below my wrist. So yes it’s about form, but you also got to check your string and brace height.
Cheers Kramer
EPIC!!!
Hi, some comments about the poundage/speed question.
The energy of the arrow is proportional to the mass of the arrow multiplied the speed squared.
The energy you put in pulling is proportional to the (average)poundage multiplied the length of pull.
So I respectfully submit that the comparison would be more consistent by dividing (speed squared) by (poundage) :-) .
If there were a way to calculate the average poundage instead of the poundage at full draw, that would be probably better, because in principle every bow behaves differently.
Perhaps by measuring the poundage at three or four points until full draw, and average those.
Your ultimate arm guards look great! Do you have them in black? And do you ship to Germany?
I would love for you to review the 45# omp smoky mountain hunter takedown recurve. I bought one as my first recurve and I like it but im relatively new to archery. I would love to watch someone who knows what they're talking about review it.
ive used a split tab for 3 under, it works fine
I have the Deerseeker 62" 35lb and it is dead on the money ! ... it looks great and shoots smooth and fairly fast at 170 -185. I'm really happy with it. I decided to buy one of the 54" like the one on this video. I ordered a 45lb. I'll test it when it arrives and update this comment. It should be Jan 10 2022. .. update ... GOT IT EARLY - at the 28" draw length the string pressure is 28.5 lbs. At 29 it goes up to 33 and 30 it jumps to 38. It is a smooth shooting, nice looking but smallish bow... It seems more like an older kids bow or a maybe smaller adult. The Deerseeker 62" is EXCELLENT .. I LOVE IT !! this one is going back for a refund.
Love the series! But this comparison is kind if useless. Would love to see you revisit that bow with the correct draw weight. I mean - mistakes do happen, maybe somebody got distracted and just wrote the wrong weight on there.
The series is pretty useful btw. I was looking at the Black Hunter some days ago as I want to get two draw weights, but didn’t think it’s particularly good - and a week later you’re starting this series :D can’t wait for the next bow reviews! Btw, it would be cool if you‘d check out bows from different countries as well! Would love to know what you think about the bows I own :)
What do you think about such cheap bows? Isn’t that dangerous for custom bow-makers?
I bought one of these bows from a returns center, no accessories but it was left handed and only cost me $3. Haven’t tested the draw weight but it’s marked 60 and feels like 60lbs. I definitely get what you mean by being too big for the bow 6,1 at about 29 inch draw.
The company says they measure draw weight from the back of the riser where the web of your hand makes contact with the bow. I would be curious to see if this is the case. Maybe a follow-up video to verify? From what I gather, it's right at about 10lb off. I would like one at 45lb. I am concerned to order a 55lb to have the correct 45lb. Love the channel and products!!
Thanks for these videos. I am looking to buy my first bow eventually. These videos really help, even if I don't buy one of these bows I still learn what to look for.
@11:09 The rule of thumb is 1.5 FPS, per pound of weight
I'm enjoying this series a great deal and find it very helpful. In my opinion, this would be a great ongoing topic and maybe do three to four different bows every 4-6 months or so. As more are made, this would make for a very great library resource on your channel especially for beginners. Keep them going!
If you fire the same weight arrows with each bow, the correlation between each would be much more linear. You might be able to get an actual ft/s/lb.
Im curious if Australian bottlebrush timber would make a decent bow i have a lot of it on my property, also i use it for making hammer handles, its very light but a little springy and strong for its weight, if available in the US (i believe it is) would you be willing to test it as a material for making a bow
Kramer..... quick question..... out of all the bows 200 dollars and under,.... which one in your experienced opinion is the best deal/best bow??
I would return it on principle seeing as they promised a totally different draw weight than delivered. But cool that your wife likes it and it works for her.
I really like how kramer is holding up the industry to their standards! PERSONALLY I would return that bow. 23lbs is for me when I was 8 years old, 20 years ago. Can't hunt anything with that one. Shame because I think it's really good looking.
At 160 feet per second you could hunt with it at short range
Hey Kramer! I am building a long bow from scratch and I had a couple of questions: how should I determine my brace height/ should I worry about brace height? Also, how would you recommend setting a notching point? I am planning on buying a string off your website btw. Thanks!
Usually brace height is 6-7.5 inches from the deepest point of the handle, for traditional bows that is.
I'm your bigest fan here in chile, i'm indebted to You for everything i learned watching You
there is a Archery Calculator online.
Would say it's a 25lb bow just the bow weight on the bow was marked incorrectly.
Hey Kramer, you should really look into the chapter function on UA-cam, I would love to see different chapter marks for each section of the review :D
Can I make a tillered long bow with green wood or do I have to season the wood first. I have a Maple tree in my yard with nice straight knotless peices varying in sizes from 1.5" to 3" in diameter
Lauren - I have used a green maple stave without any problems. I took the bark off a day or so after harvesting. I did let it dry for a few weeks in my garage before I got around to working on it. By the time I had it shaped and ready to tiller it had dried out enough. I ended up splitting the branch in half and ended up getting two staves from it. One I did back with some duct tape, the other I didn't use any backing. I have been shooting both for about a year now and both work great. The problem with using green wood is that it will take set more easily. So just make sure you don't leave it strung for very long until it dries out. Working with green wood it can also warp or twist as it dries out. But if the stave is already strait then you should be fine using it green. I also found that as it dried more the poundage went up slightly. So best if you can let it dry, but not 100% necessary. If it's your first time making a box I suggest just going for it and have fun with it. You will learn a lot.
Kamer have you ever tryed to build a native american sheep horn bow?
A 40Pound bow would be 240fps. (actual26.5*6=159) (added poundage 13.5*6=81) 159+81=240fps
Even if he shot the same (light weight) arrows with the same bow, but in a 40 lb draw, it may get to around 200fps but nowhere near 240.
Kramer, I'm quite pleased with this content, keep up the excellent work. If nobody has mentioned it already, I think it would be interesting to hear about the processes you would do to improve the performance of bows, especially factory ones like in this series.
if you use the same arrow weight it should work.
More build vids man?
With that much off on draw weight, the only think that comes to mind is checking the bow string, but it can't be that stretchy right? I would rate it way lower as its a rip off in my opinion.
Please do a samak sage
Really looking forward to seeing that collapsible bow review, I've been thinking of getting a takedown bow for a while and will be interested to see your point of view on it
Hey man so I picked up the Deerseeker 62" Takedown Recurve at 40#…first bow, what are your thoughts? I’ve never shot a bow in my life
Also just picked up a arm guard from you guys and some silencers 🤙🏽
How is it that this bow is fast? If we always compare with 10 gpp. There should be no such thing as a fast bow for Only 23 pounds. As a rule of a thump we often see that 1” of drawlenght increases the speed with approx 10 fps. And a stacking of pounds at 2-3 pounds. (On normal bows) so I dont count the Black Hunter to be very fast, cause it’s draw’n 1,5” longer, and it’s also stacking 3 - 4 pounds. So we can take approx 15 fps off and 5 more, due to the stacking, to actually have the fair speed at 28 inches. So it will end up at around 170 fps. At 28” with 10 gpp. Which also are realistic and not bad. The same parameters are in play with all the other bows. Thanks for these test series, I love it🏹👏
You may have to use a take down bow to prove, a bow you have with maybe 30lb, 40lb and 50 lb limbs. So you can easily get limb weights. But i think this might be close.... fd=1/2 mv^2. force (draw weight) x distance (draw length minus brace heighth) = 1/2 times the mass ( may include any or all. arrow, string and limb weight) x crono reading squared. You'll have to decide metric or standard and youll have to solve for v (your crono speed) so...
v =square root of ((2fd)÷m). Or i may be completely wrong, its been many years. but if you crunch f,d and m then solve for v and it matches the crono reading then it worked. The squaring of the speed makes finding the direct correlation you were looking for tricky.
Mind the units/labels. For example if your crono reads meters/second make sure your distance of string travel is in meters(or a fraction of a meter 29 1/2 " draw minus 7 1/2" b.h. =22"x2.54 cm/" =55.88 cm=0.56 meters). Good luck.
It's probably a missmarked 25lb bow, they should definitely replace it if it is over 5lb out. Also your question on arrow speed, with that type of bow I'm guessing your arrow weight is around 330-350 grains to hit that speed at your draw length. With the same arrow, a 40lb version would likely hit around 190fps too, but 8gpp is typically quite low for these bows. You are right when talking about efficiency not being linear, the lower weight bows will always outperform high weight bows/ Limbs can only be as efficient as the properties of the material being used, and as you increase the mass of material used it becomes less efficient at releasing the stored energy.
There are other benefits to higher draw weight than simply comparing speed efficiency, most notably arrow weight. As you increase in draw weight, you can increase your arrow weight almost linearly to achieve comparable efficiency. For example, with a 40lb version of this bow you could hit 160fps with a 575 grain arrow, which would still reach the target in the same amount of time and have the same flight trajectory, but be far less effected by wind drift and have far more penetrating force if that is desirable to you. You can also play around a lot more with FOC which has it's own effects. Hope this gives you something to think about, stay blessed!
Will it bow? African iron wood.......very curious. May need chemical soaking ;)
Hi Kramer, love the series of cheap bow video's. This bow with all the accessories would be perfect for someone who wanted to try archery that has no equipment at all. If they like archery they'll improve their equipment. If it came with 3 arrows it would be a perfect starter kit. Shame the poundage is off, it'll make people think there stronger than they really are. Lol
Look forward to the next video.
Take care and stay safe.
Hey Kramer :) I had commented on one of your other videos about maybe correlating the speed of the bow with the area under the force/draw curve. Hit me up if you want to investigate more. If I could get maybe 5-10 draw weights at different draw lengths for each bow, I could see how well correlated that is to the speed. Also, aren't you already somewhat compensating for the lighter draw weight by using a lighter arrow? So it's not too surprising that it shoots almost as fast as a higher pound bow, but with a heavier arrow.
And in terms of comparing bows of different draw weights, I'm wondering if maybe kinetic energy per pound of draw weight might be the way to go. The kinetic energy of the arrow would be calculated as arrow weight * speed * speed / 2. And then divide that by the draw weight. I'm not 100% sure if that would give a good comparison between bows of different draw weights, but I think it might.
Great content! Really loving this series...although I'm trying to resist buying new bows right now (even if they are good deals.)
Also, I think the high score when you were testing snagability is at least partly a function of the light draw. It's WAY easier to hold steady with a light poundage bow. My groups tighten up significantly when I switch from my 45# to 30# limbs.
On the speed test calculate the kinetic energy and then show us the ratio of speed to kinetic energy. The better the ratio the better the bow.
Tod Cutler from ‘Tod’s workshop’ did a really good bow poundage comparison video for that maths at the 11 minute mark, he’s a medieval / historical channel, testing mainly English war bows and their intended targets
Bruh, serious question. Can I get sick pythons for arms just by pulling bows or do you even lift??
Energy to velocity calculations. E = 1/2 m v^2 . E would be the poundage (in Newton's) , m the mass of arrow (in kg) , v the velocity (in m/s) .
A better test would be to see whether the arrows get close to the speed they should according to this perfect energy conversion, i. e. how effectively it transfers the energy to the arrow. .
So measured v against calculated max velocity : v=sqrt((2xE)/m)
Brendan Goodbody 2061932511 I think Hook's law would apply as well. The limbs are basically springs, and the longer the draw length the heavier the draw weight, all other things being equal. The curve of the lines might lead to a nonlinear force curve though. After taking efficiency into account it would probably be easier to come up with a formula, but mass and width of the limbs are going to create a whole pile of variance with the moment of inertia.
I might have to play around with it, just for entertainment purposes.
@@timkaldahl please, do it
Brendan, I think you're on to something here. The only thing I would add is that E is in Newton-meters or Joules in SI or lbf-ft in US units.
This can be related to the theoretical energy of the bow with E_bow=F*d, where F is the draw weight and d is the draw length. Since the draw weight varies with draw length this wound need to be integrated to accurately calculate. This could be approximated by taking several draw weight measurements at specific lengths. Then you could look at the efficiency of energy transfer by doing E_arrow/E_bow. This would give a better approximating for bow to bow comparisons.
Kramer, when you do the bow tabs video, please cover String Finger Savers? I got a set off amazon for US$9 and find them better than having to go to the trouble of putting on a glove.
Also, after seeing the poundage so off it makes me want to see if I can check my Edge Takedown bow that's supposed to be 40lbs and see if it's accurate.
I've been shooting three-under with a split tab since I started, I can't use a normal three-under because they always feel bulky to me due to that.
I just checked it again marked 45,and is 26lbs.
Love you man i would like to get one of you fastflight strings
what arrows are you using in this video? thank you
Lookin like "Linkboy" from AliExpress. The best shafts that i shot since i startet 8 years ago..
@@Huckl3B3rrY_93 yeah, i've noticed linkboy logos, but interested in exact model and spine
🎅
I am thinking, maybe someone mislabeled a 25# bow as 35#
some thing wrong 23 lb you said they said 35lb that has to be more than a third off how is this even allowed to happen
What was the maximum draw length
70lbs
Hi Kramer. I have a very old flat wood bow which has a very fine, long longitudinal crack in both limbs. Have you ever thought of using shrink wrap tubing to make a repair?? Would putting a leather backing on the bow be a better solution??
I wrote the co. No reply. I make wood and have made some glass bows ,and was thinking of wacking an inch off both limbs ,and at least picking up another 5 lbs of draw weight. This really sucks. I gave his son a pearson pony that is at least 38 lbs.
Can you try the 60" pse ghost recurve bow.
The title was "avoid this mistake", so how do we avoid this mistake? Just not buy this bow? I’ve watched several of this series, and it seems like many of them are off on weight. Surely not all from the company are that off, are they?
i dont use an arm guard and a tab.. found out it just got in the way and didnt feel right....
What was the weight of the arrow used in the speed test of this bow?
Just because 11 pounds off this is a absolutly NO GO! Good for your wife, but if I order a 35 Pound bow , and get a 24 Pounder, I'd just return it and send them a really spicy email...
But thank you so much for this video, my dear sir Kramer!
No one has perfect quality control. No spice needed as long as they replace promptly without problems... Not even worth a bad review unless they refuse to make it right IMO...
On a side note have you ever thought of making a bow using flex tape as backing ?
Surprising smoothness and speed from such a light draw weight. Speed to draw weight, tough one. I think you would have to have a benchmark to compare. As in same wood , same number of lamination, same wood (or whatever other material) in the lamination. Far too many variables in stored energy/material used. Energy released in a spring steel limb vs. a fiberglass/bamboo is vastly different in a graph diagram. Steel is quick energy dump, wood is slower and probably more effective in acceleration. Extreme examples to illustrate the probable variance of kinetic release. On the other hand, I could be wrong. ;-)
😍
🎅
i thought that you adjusted the arrow weight to be 10grain per pound for all the bows, tha in itself should equalize the speed issue and make it apples to apples, no other math needed.
I doubt he has 240 grain arrows.
I have a symbol and numbers on my bow I cant find online any idea what fb56 with 55 planted under it means symbol is blue circle with 3 red lines in top left corner and tiny red star
pull that to 28.5" to account for that .5" throat and then tell us what it is.
I bought a 45lbs. pvc Apache style bow. It’s less than my 25lbs. fiberglass Bear bow. I can’t hit a 10 yard target with it.
Anyway, what do you think you're gonna have for $128.00? One should know they're not gonna get a SUPER kit for that price. Moreover, if you decide to get such a kit, it's beacause you're new to archery. And your expectations should be accordingly. That's why novices will order on Amazon and not from reputed archery supplies. But, agreed, the poundage gap is something. Again, $128.00? That tells all! (M.G., Qc., Canada)
Instead of trying to compare just speed of the bows, could you somehow work out the force of the arrow on the target? That would take into account the weight of the arrow being shot which could help normalize the values for all the bows. Not sure what that equation looks like but would have to include your arrow speed and mass of the arrow.
23 lbs at 160 ft/sec = 278 ft/sec at 40 lbs if the speed is directly proportional to lbs.
But it would likely come down because he'd also be scaling the weight of the arrow up. He's shooting 10grains/lb of draw.
@@stuponfucious7 agreed, and he is over bowing it, I think he said 29 inch draw
It's possible you just received a 25# bow which was labelled incorrectly which makes 2lbs out not that bad at that price.
Say where do you get your ipe staves
Again..." talkin' it to death", just get to the item at hand...THE BOW!
EDIT: C YA!?????????
is there a possibility that they just send you the wrong bow?
At 5:24 he shows where it's marked as a 35# bow. If it's mislabelled that still speaks to poor quality control.
@@stuponfucious7 true, thanks for the time stamp :)
Such a pity. Nice looking bow, smooth and fast let down by being way off the advertised weight. I would buy this at this weight for $90 without the extras as I am getting older and suffer from arthritis. If this had been close to the advertised weight I think it would win by a mile.
You have already taken into account the draw weight of the bow by changing the weight of the arrow based on the poundage of the bow.
I came down here to post this. Adjusting for the draw weight by changing the grain of the arrow means that you are left with the speed of flight regardless of poundage of the bow. Though all this is assuming he shot the 23lb @ 230 grain, which he didn't mention in this video only others, if he's shooting higher than 230 grain this comparison is out the window.
If the above is true this bow is actually shooting really poorly at 160. even if he bumped it up to 40lbs (assuming he got a 40 lb bow) it would still only shoot a 400 grain arrow at ~160 ft/s. It really doesn't deserve the 9/10 (again assuming he shot it at 230 grain in the test)
If you have a horsebow, use the thumb draw technique. That's the only technique that can be used to take advantage of the librage of the bow.
Can you show us the perfect bow for under 200
Wow you dont look 6'3" that just blew my mind. I was thinking 29" draw length seems long but now I'm thinking it's short for your height. And 40lbs seems low for draw weight. I'm only 5'6" and my draw length is 27 but my draw weight that I'm comfortable shooting is 50lbs. I own draw weights from 40lbs being the low to 70lbs at the highest. Well and a 30lbs for thumb release because my thumb is a weakling
F=MA. It throws arrows fast. What weight arrow. It's performing like a 40lb bow. Something is confusing here. Since when does a 24lb bow throw an arrow that fast. Must be a light arrow.
Black Hunter is a no brainer. Awesome bit if kit. Imo and you should get a refund.
Always a glove, shot recurve and compound for 30 years, never felt the need for armguard?