Just quick tip: In general, gaskets are worse for low force/low pressure mating interfaces than orings. They have much larger surface area, so require more force to compress a given distance with the same rubber durometer. If instead you had an o ring gland, with large diameter oring, you could have less flat, lower pressure sealing interface and still get a good seal. Also, oring material is cheaper and easier to make in custom sizes (cut with knife and glue), so repairs on the road might be easier. This gasket seems to be working, which is great, but orings would widen the tolerance zone for success!
Great video as always! Always wotking to improve! Curious, would the drive work on one of your kayaks? Obviously modified and with a large sport sized cockpit opening. It would have a lower center of gravity, but the main issue I see is the needed height on the tunnel opening.
Probably not, seat needs to be at least 8 inches higher than the floor, and there is no way to balance yourself because your waist is locked when leaning against the backrest. Could work in something like a Klepper solo, but nothing smaller than that.
We may be sharing a "brain wave" here…LOL… I’ve repaired and made a few folders over the years. The last I made was a folding "Klepper style" kayak over 30 years ago, and I’m now in the process of designing a new one with modifications in design to meld a Cajun pirogue, Malay Sampan, and some of the current modifications of what Mark Eckhart at Long Haul Kayaks has developed over the decades for this style of wood frame folder. I have a very long history in vernacular woodworking (folk styles of green woodworking, bending, and timber framing) and have now incorporated the Festool Domino 700 joinery system into the rib, gunnel, keel, and related frame assembly. Full retirement is about 3 years out. By then I want an expedition size that can handle as near a ½ tone load capacity as I can get, yet be manageable in portages and a 1 hour or less assembly time. My old frame took me about 20 minutes and was a 4.8 m (~16’) frame. Brian’s work has been a wealth of ideas and functional detailing. His pedal drive adaptation is priceless to this development. Good luck with your design and reach out if you ever wish to collaborate…
Great video as usual...I was confused by one point of assessment...Are you stating you would use the smaller fins for heavy-load expedition kayaking/canoeing or the larger fin for that?
One of the things i llok forward to when i finish my shop, is maki g one of these. Thanks Brian.
Just quick tip:
In general, gaskets are worse for low force/low pressure mating interfaces than orings. They have much larger surface area, so require more force to compress a given distance with the same rubber durometer. If instead you had an o ring gland, with large diameter oring, you could have less flat, lower pressure sealing interface and still get a good seal. Also, oring material is cheaper and easier to make in custom sizes (cut with knife and glue), so repairs on the road might be easier.
This gasket seems to be working, which is great, but orings would widen the tolerance zone for success!
Great video as always! Always wotking to improve! Curious, would the drive work on one of your kayaks? Obviously modified and with a large sport sized cockpit opening. It would have a lower center of gravity, but the main issue I see is the needed height on the tunnel opening.
Probably not, seat needs to be at least 8 inches higher than the floor, and there is no way to balance yourself because your waist is locked when leaning against the backrest. Could work in something like a Klepper solo, but nothing smaller than that.
We may be sharing a "brain wave" here…LOL… I’ve repaired and made a few folders over the years. The last I made was a folding "Klepper style" kayak over 30 years ago, and I’m now in the process of designing a new one with modifications in design to meld a Cajun pirogue, Malay Sampan, and some of the current modifications of what Mark Eckhart at Long Haul Kayaks has developed over the decades for this style of wood frame folder. I have a very long history in vernacular woodworking (folk styles of green woodworking, bending, and timber framing) and have now incorporated the Festool Domino 700 joinery system into the rib, gunnel, keel, and related frame assembly. Full retirement is about 3 years out. By then I want an expedition size that can handle as near a ½ tone load capacity as I can get, yet be manageable in portages and a 1 hour or less assembly time. My old frame took me about 20 minutes and was a 4.8 m (~16’) frame. Brian’s work has been a wealth of ideas and functional detailing. His pedal drive adaptation is priceless to this development. Good luck with your design and reach out if you ever wish to collaborate…
Great video as usual...I was confused by one point of assessment...Are you stating you would use the smaller fins for heavy-load expedition kayaking/canoeing or the larger fin for that?
smaller
@@capefalconkayak Is this a fatigue and ease factor of pedaling or some other wisdom you haven gleaned from this system? Thank you in advance...
ingenious
Pelican bought the rights to manufacture the original Mirage drive. It is about $600ish dollars, no reverse though.
Does that have the original style fins? Those were incredibly sluggish.
So the next question is pedal drive vs oars.