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The front brakes on my 2010 silverado 2500 HD LS seem to seize up after I drive about 30-40 minutes and it warms up. I had the calipers replaced but it still happens. The mechanic says that the bearings are good. This issue does not seem to happen if it is cold outside and or there is moisture from wet snow. When it is ready to happen I can hear a squeak in the brake pedal when I use the brakes.

This is a BMW level problem in a simple working pickup truck...stupid design.

Just had the same thing happen. I think the master cylinder was going bad for over a year. Truck felt like it was kinda down on power but didn't feel like brakes were sticking hard. Then a couple weeks ago the driver side was sticking to the point the truck would hold itself on a hill without brakes applied. Replaced caliper and both front brake hoses with stainless lines. Seemed to have fixed it but then a week later the passenger side started sticking. Relieved brake booster pressure and it still held. Only thing left was the master cylinder. Replaced it yesterday and the truck brakes fine and feels like it has a ton more power and gets up to speed with a lot less effort. I'd say first signs of failure is the truck feeling like it's not as fast when getting up to speed.

So what if I'm having this problem and I've already replaced the master hose is hard lines calipers cylinders... Everything but the rotors drums and actual booster itself? It was cleaned out and emptied of all fluid when the master was done it's been bled more times than I can count even had my buddy hook up and do the ABS unit but I'm still getting intermittent dragging and straight up nonsense. Sometimes it's so violent I have already had to replace the blown out front drivers wheel bearing because of it and it has cracked my sway bar end (not the link) literally in half the long way! Even the most seasoned old school mechanic I know, has never seen a sway bar fail like that or a brake system not actually work after replacing as much as we have. I know it's not going to get fixed through a UA-cam comment but because of all this it has literally broken me. Just lost my wife to cancer and adopted my stepdaughter and literally for the past 4 years this truck has ruined me to the point I can't even get a new vehicle and just be done with it😂 I don't know what's wrong nobody does any ideas? Lol I know...Tall order

Awesome pickup truck.

Yoo tengo una Bicicleta GT California Aniquelada Antigua Y bien bonita y hermosa 😂🎉😂❤😊😊😊😂😂🎉😂

15:23 why do people do this. Mount it to your truck and use the pedal it’s way easier. Lol

the bars are worth more than the bike

those bars are bad ass

This guy got dramatic music on shit i used to do when i was 8 lol

The fluid in the booster was my problem. I rarely added brake fluid so I have no idea how it all got in there. I think it may have leaked for years and finally made its way to the other side of the booster diaphragm. Once on the other side of that diaphragm that is when the hanging brakes started. I could pull the vacuum hose and the brakes would release. Pull the master cylinder and look in that booster.

Man just the video I was looking for. I'm having a similar issues on my 97' and I said to myself ok well the brake lines ( rubber sections are original on a 30 year old truck for good measure let's replace them ) did that, then both front caliper, bled the system of to have good clean fluid and still the left front drags. Now I bought reman calipers so I said well let's warranty out the left front once and see. Was good for a little while then right back to periodically dragging. Tomorrow I will pull my master away and take a peek back there. Only reason I didn't because this master was replaced not long ago and this booster was replaced twice for what reason I don't know previous owner worked at gmc dealership with me did it and yeah thanks for this video I needed some outside the box thinking there and I should know just cause it's new don't mean it's good. Great job and thanks I smashed that like and subscribe. Nice to come arcoss techs that know what they are doing. You never can know it all and as long as the mindset is held you will always learn new things.

Jeep 258 I6 - A little bit of oil, stuff the hole with plumbers putty then use the clutch alignment tool with a rubber mallet. Worked like magic. I spent two hours whacking that thing with heavy grease and it didn't budge.

Dude, your F-ing Awesome!!! Thank you so much. I'm not going to go into detail on everything that I've replaced because this caliper would keep locking up on me as I would be driving down the road. I have an '06 Silverado 1500 that had the same exact issue and I would have not have figured it out if it wasn't for your video. So again, thank you!

I had an 89 blue white performer with white mags in 1990. I just remember it being a heavy tank and indestructible. PS try using SOS pads to remove rust off chrome they are the best inho short of dipping it. Your paint scheme came out better then the original I never liked the blue GT used in the factory. Nice job buddy.

How much was the whole resto?

But how did the master cylinder only affect 1 wheel...? i would think that both front wheels would hang up..

Thank you sir. This was extremely helpful.

is the driver side turbo the right or left when ordering parts?

For chrome with minor rust soak in Oxalic acid for 24 hrs and the results are incredible.

why didn't you measure the push rod to make sure the distance is correct before installing the new master cylinder?

Its a good video remembering the diagnostic part is what i have problems with....as im not an everyday tech it sounds from this that i have a plugged brake line so i ordered both and ill get the calipers too....i replaced them about 10 yrs ago when the brakes overheated now its happening again 2001 DODGE RAM CARGO VAN IS WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT....IT NEEDS ROTORS TOO

You cant really have a square cut o-ring....o-ring means that the cross sectional shape is an O square cut means cross sectional area is SQUARE I USED TO THINK THAT O MEANT THE CIRCUMFERENCE BUT THEn i learned it meant cross sectional

Nice video from start to finish, well done

We ll take your word for it

It seems to be the left side that has the most problems....why? Mine is a 2001 dodge ram

Put the freewheel tool in a vice upside down, put the freewheel in it, turn the wheel.

I had the same problem with my 2007 Chevy Silverado 1500 classic. The master cylinder was leaking brake fluid into the booster. I replaced both the master cylinder and the booster, and now my front brake start dragging after the truck has been driven for a little while. Once it cools down, the brakes stop dragging.

How in hell are you supposed to get that clip back on the plunger

What year didthe S. Frame come out

Too bad no one has videos of whats wrong with these mid 2000,s Silverado after you change all brake components lines everything and booster and it still happens. ive found several things on Google about this problem with these trucks and no one seems to know how to fix it. the only thing i haven't changed is the hard lines so thats next i guess

Asbestos can cause cancer even if only one tiny speck is inhaled,,,So ware a proper painters mask with screw on filter pods ,,,Normal hospital masks are useless..

Very good explanation of everything - great video!

Hey what grit sand paper did you sand the bike with before relclearing it? I have littlerly an identical bike but performer and my paint has began to dull

Respect 🙏 bro...not sure on the wheels.....if I remember, was 19 inch...no ny -lock.....guess it's re pop...

I love this! Restoring a 97 Haro group 1 as well as an Elf 92 zr1. Neither will probably look as good as yours 😂 but it’s definitely fun. Great vid!

You cannot use this on a ls engine it will knock the ceankshaft oil plug forward with a massive oil leak. So if you own one beware , bought harbor freight puller it works 25.00.

Excellent video my bro.

I really enjoyed watching this build. Excellent job! Also, I don't like giving bad reviews to anyone, but I hope you gave that Ebay seller a review letting people know your experience. Cheers!

That a 94? My first gt was a 94…I’m building a 97 performer right now, so glad I hung on to it all these years.

Yes Sir, that looks a lot easier than the fender removal. Thank you for the information.

That bike brings back some memories love the mags

New subscriber!!🔥🔥🔥

Maybe I missed it but it wasn't very clear on how you determined the master cylinder was also faulty and needing replaced. I'm at that point with a limited window to order parts and am unsure if I need to do both booster and MC or just booster. Edit: great video though, man. Thanks a million for putting it out there for us. 2nd edit: my bad I am one of those bums that comments before finishing the entire video, where at the end, he recaps and answers my unnecessary question. Sorry yall... I'm slightly ashamed of myself... but thanks again man. Solid content!

Yea i had the gt tomahawk rims and idk wtf i did with them. :(

I have this same problem on an 06 Tahoe and I have had a new brake booster. New master cylinder, new brake calipers, new brake hose.

This keeps happening to me but its doing it on both sides iv already replace the calipers rotors and pads within a span of a year Iv replace the abs module master cylinder and about to change the lines as well because it’s not bleeding properly but i this point I think I might change the booster as well it sounds like its the issue on my truck

‘94 blue spatter…my first GT was exactly like that, sadly I repainted it and traded it in ‘96 for another bike…never to be seen again. I’m in the process of restoring a 97 green spatter performer, I’d prefer your year for nostalgia purposes…the spatter performers are my favourites. That paint turned out nice, I appreciate the original bars but c’mon man…those are peregrines!!!

Hello and awesome video !!! Have you ever taken apart the entire rear axle hub assembly mine is corroded beyond use is it press in/out? Any info will help thanks

Great info