top man .. my father worked at Dunlop in the UK . brakes . he told me about the small retract function of the seal. In the caliper the seating face has a slight ANGLE on the pressure face . which the seal rocks on .. Well done .. I am now 75 years old and can remember what my father told me . Excellent . I use a special FLEXHONE to clean up the caliper piston bores .. Great video and top man .
Old trucker here . For temporary fix on the piston , clean it real good , heat it up with propane put flux on the pitted area and work in some. Solder,then smooth out it works . KEEP ON TRUCKING ,,!
glad to see common sense existed 5 years ago somehow all people in the comment section are okay with the idea, to put that marred piston back in, no repair, no smoothing no nothing. just stick that mofo back in, and call it "temporary" this video is really poisonous, as its supposed to educate
I love it Warts and all , losing the ring down the bottle. It's so true when he makes and shares his mistakes that we don't make the same the same ones. Eric's the best.
Having that hook there putting the seal in the bottle would be the only way unless you put some in a dish. To lube it up. Kool video when I do brakes on my truck I’ll pull them apart and see if they are rebuildable.
"It's by hope, that, the other side doesn't get jealous", I really second this, ha ha ha. The most wisest and accurate hope a D.I.Y car mechanic could ask for.
Had a 73 chev pu back around 85. Brought up quick at a red light. Drivers side front wheel locked up. Managed to get about a 100 meters and parked it all day due to some other commitments. Came back around 5 pm. Removed the wheel, took a hammer ,squat and bent back a piece of the steel brake line. Squat again. Drove a flat top between the rotor and pad on the piston side. Drove 230 miles or about 380 km back to home and made good repairs. Moral of the story. Carry a few tools.
Great vid. Amazing how little this detail has changed over the decades. p.s. Another way re the dust seal, is to fit it into the calliper without the piston, then sit the piston on the top of the seal and then a little puff of low pressure compressed air into the back of the calliper (via the banjo/pipe hole) will blow the seal up and around the piston. Works every time, job done.
Thanks Eric for the insight and general entertainment... always appreciated. It was go to see you go through the complete steps... I am in the middle of (managing a stuck caliper) cleaning, repair / rebuild... a friend asked why I did not just buy a new one. [partly funds] and mostly I wanted just to learn more about wrenching on my Jeep WJ brakes, which when done will be like new... I was torn with it just being a 'collapsed' brake line... which I am replacing both of the 'original looking' brake lines... replacing worn guide pins, re-lubing them, new boots. While doing all of that, I wire brushed and (lightly) painted the wheel hub surface, inner and outer rotor surfaces and will use anti-seized between all mated surfaces and the wheel to eliminate any possibility of 'wheel wobble'. Always, always learning and evolving...
Depends as long as your not one of those guys who gets all fired up when something doesn't go his way it can be enjoyable ... I did it for about a year and changed professions I still do everything including customization on my own vehicles but that's all I don't touch other peoples machines anymore unless it's extenuating circumstances. people who know nothing bitch too much. I had a lady go bananas because she needed to replace the caliper after driving so long with it seized that she wore the pads off totally and grinded 1/2 inch groves into the rotor from the caliper pistons... no joke it was into the fins in the centers of the rotors never had i seen something like it prior or since crazy it got to that point.
The quality of the sound and video is great. Showing the fine details of what you are trying to show the audience is awesome. Thanks you for this channel.
Thanks, Eric. I invested in a car lift to take care of my family's machines and cars. I do not have the first idea about anything. I am completely clueless. Watching your very detailed videos about the basic jobs enables me to keep everything running.
Do NOT try to race any vehicle that only has four lugs per wheel on ANY kind of racetrack !!!!!! Should not even pass tech inspection. And you should know better.
Hey Eric! I have watched many of your videos now and am a long term subscriber. From some of the comments it seems that people care more about your personal requirements for the vehicle rather than the invaluable information that you kindly share with us. I just want to say thank you for all the time and effort you put in and I am truly grateful for people like you. I will continue to support your channel as many of your videos have helped with countless car repairs, including this one! keep up the good work :)
Yes it's a dog eat dog world out there, mechanics are too expensive.Pop in a component $450.oo !!! Went in for an oil change ended up paying $1200.oo for assorted things.
I watch all the car videos on youtube and yours are right near the top. But I really noticed your comment about the "other side getting jealous". Oh so true. Don't do something to one vehicle and not the other because the next time you want to drive the other vehicle she will not start or some other calamity will take place. You are truly experienced.
Eric, thanks for this excellent video. It gave me the confidence to rebuild my own calipers and change the discs and pads. I found two things along the way though: First, I could NOT push the piston in without the special tool. After a frustrating hour I bought that tool (about 40 Euros) and it fits multiple car types/makes. Problem solved. This unexpected purchase meant nothing on the bottom line since the whole operation saved me hundreds of euros (as compared to the official dealership). Secondly, after bleeding the brakes I heard a faint hissing sound from the brake pedal even no more (visible) bubbles remained after bleeding all four brakes. The brakes are working fine though and the sound is audible only when the engine runs. I guess it is the brake booster letting in outside air into the chamber that builds up pressure against the other (vacuum) chamber.
I just watched several videos where the piston almost fell back into the bore with little effort. It's nice to see a realistic video showing the effort I've been going through to try and get that damn piston back in. At first I tried lubricating it with brake fluid - no go. Then I found out about a miracle grease (Red Rubber grease) supposedly used by caliper repair shops - still no go. I used a giant "C" clamp - no go. I don't have a giant Channel Lock so I'm thinking seriously of spending the $ 35 apiece and buying a pair of rebuilt calipers.
Eric, thanks for the vid. I prefer to remove the brake shoes completely to keep them clean and dry and free from possible piston impact damage. Just use a piece of scrap 1x4 or similar to catch the piston once you apply air pressure. Less clean up and safer.
Important Lesson on this video: " I am not gonna use the wrench impact machine, I'm gonna start it with a couple of thread to go". This is so important to do but not only on that part. It should be with every screw u wanna thread. U can not imagine how much I learned from u. Thanks a lot.
Great video, I've done it myself before. I have a couple of tips, first one when putting the new rubber on, is to be sure to do it right. If it starts getting hard to do or taking time, the rubber will likely take some damage. The rubber is easy to put in place, it should not pop up again and again. Second tip is when the cylinder is being pushed into the caliper, it will likey get stuck because it doesn't come in straight. Try rotating the cylinder or pushing it the right way, you should feel when it settles straight and then it's easy to press into the caliper. My conclusion of this work is if the jobs get done without struggles you are probably doing it right!
Hey there Eric the Car Guy - thank God for awesome dudes like you who have inspired me - and - been there to help me out when I’m in a jam! Much Love! Hey also stoked that I’ve been able to fix several cars I’ve had including today - was a grease monkey but feeling great now problems fixed!! 🥰
Hey let's put this seal right into the bottle, that will be a real quick and easy way to lubricate the seal before installing it..... Thanks for "falling on the sword" for us Eric!! Short cuts, got to love em!! =)
all you haters out there need to take a chill pill, I've been turning wrenches since the 70's for a living and i happen to find Eric the car guy videos very helpful, a Customer has never had a accident due to any of the repairs that i have done on any vehicle, and yet i have done some of the same things Eric has shown on his web site, i think it's great that Eric takes some time out of his schedule to do this.
Not only are your videos educational, but they are very entertaining to watch. Glad you got a cameraman to help you, hopefully gives you more hands and better time to repair things. Interesting to see how easy it is to change brakepads on that ford compared to my '94 626 mazda. Thank you, and looking forward to new videos. :-)
Eric's silicone-paste-only advocacy re:brake slide pins has proven to be solid advice time and time again for me. I had been using CRC caliper grease and it'd always dry out and the pins would start to stick. I don't even know why they sell the stuff- it sucks. Then again, CRC also makes "belt dressing" aka snake oil. I will say that if you have a VW, be careful with clamping off the line like Eric does here. I discovered that, at least for an 03 Golf, the "rubber" brake lines near the caliper are actually soft-ish hard lines covered in a rubber casing. It bent and (thankfully in this case) didn't clamp off successfully. I had to un-smush the line after taking the needle nose vice grips (protected with fuel line) off.
great tutorial :) though here in the uk, on average, a new calliper cost on average about £120+, but a full rebuild kit for both callipers including new pistons, is around £40, so you can save quite a bit of money if you're willing to put a little time and effort into it :) and its always great to have that satisfaction, that you fixed it :)
First of all - Eric the Car Guy is the man - THE MAN - something about your vids and communication that make it feel like I am going to "make it through" a tough job - With this vid as my inspiration - I sorted out a very sticky wheel on an '08 Impala that I had just acquired - hub was heating up big time, was undriveable - but I wanted to share what the problem ultimately was - having seen this vid, I took the caliper off and rebuilt it, easy b/c Eric's vid is grrreat - but, wheel was still funky - wtf - shook my head for a bit, noticed as I tightened the cal bracket, it was a little askew - finally realized there had to be something in the caliper slide (its a 15yo, 175K car - so its seen stuff) sure enough, an old piece of slide boot was in there causing the bracket to be "out of square" upon tightening and for the top corner of the pads to contact the rotor at all times (pads were worn unevenly, that shouldv tipped me off but I thought that was due to lack of lube (silicone of course :)) - fished the piece of rubber out (used a drill bit actually (by hand)) and she was right as rain - all due to Eric the Car Guy's guidance - remain calm and just do what he says!
If you have rust/pitting you have moisture. When I was a kid master cylinders weren't see through plastic reservoirs. You had to pull the cap to see the level. Most people pulled them alot and topped off the level. EVERY time you pull the cap you introduce air with new moisture. Yes air contains moisture class. A brake system/caliper master cylinders, proportioning valves, etc... if not tampered with by letting in moisture, will last alot longer. The level drop is an indication of brake pads wearing and fills the caliper cup until you replace the pads and push or remove fluid from caliper.
FYI to people watching this video, you may want to consider rebuilding your own calipers. I went to autozone to get a replacement caliper and it turns out they just use the old pistons (same with O'Reilly...probably Pep Boys too). So if you buy a remanufactured caliper there you are paying for a caliper that has been cleaned and given new rubber boots BUT it's the same old pistons. I found that the pistons in the re-man at autozone were removed by an idiot...they were all scratched up and dented. My pistons were in way better condition so I just rebuilt the caliper which truly was not very difficult even though I have a 4-runner and each caliper has 4 pistons. If you can get a re-man with a new piston it might be worth it, but IMO I think you're better off rebuilding the one's you have.
So true!! their parts are junk I bought a duralast remanufactured rear caliper from them last week, because my rear right parking break wasn't working and it wouldn't pass state inspection like that, so i installed the "new" duralast caliper and it didn't work at all, so I went to the junkyard and got a working caliper ( i tested it while it was on the car) for about 10 bucks, and installed on my car and all is fine. Autozone wouldn't give me a refund for the "remanufactured" P.O.S duralast caliper because I "installed" it......one of the employees even had the nerve to tell me the part i was returning wasn't from autozone because it had a ford logo on it and he claimed that "duralast doesn't make" calipers with "ford" logos T_T Lesson learned, avoid autozones "reman" parts.......I should have went to the junkyard in the first place, only money I got back was the core.
With those iffy rebuilds, I wonder if it might be a good idea to check for smooth action on the piston before going ahead and installing it. Push out the piston with the compressed air part of the way, then see that it will slide back in smoothly without hanging up. Have to be really careful not to blow it out of the bore completely though, so either use a pad retraction tool or put it over the old rotor with old pads to limit the travel.
Was getting ready to buy a pair of AutoZone reman calipers & stumbled across this video & posts. So... I went on to www.autozone.com 10 minutes ago & opened an online chat with a rep, asked about their Duralast remanufactured calipers, part #'s D6028 & D6029: "Can you tell me what caliper components are replaced/reconditioned, specifically with this reman caliper? Does the caliper get a new piston, as well as square-cut seal & dust boot?" The response from AutoZone representative "Omar" was as follows: [Omar] "The calipers get a new piston, seals, and dust boots on the piston." So, trying to sort fact from fiction in the comments above, the options seem to be as follows: Either A), You had a uniquely bad experience, inconsistent with Autozone's stated rebuild practices for these parts, b) Autozone has changed its practices to include new pistons, not old (as you claimed) since your original post, or C), Omar, from Autozone just lied to me about their remanufacturing process for their DuraLast calipers. seems unlikely. UPDATE: 11/4/17, I bought the Autozone calipers, haven't installed yet, but they look (not OEM, but) decent enough. We'll see. UPDATE: 7/22/20: Back in '17, I swapped the pair of front calipers for an Auto Zone rebuilt set in my ‘08 C350. Akebono Ceramic pad set. No problems over 2 years/20kmi later. By feel, perform just as good as OEM. YMMV.
I used a wire wheel on the piston and a cylinder honing tool on the cylinder when I rebuilt the brake calipers on my 300ZX (Z32) a few years ago. Still braking marvelously. Well worth the effort and saved me about $300!!!
Thank you for your videos EricTheCarGuy, I really learned a lot with you, even when you do something wrong, because you always say what you are doing wrong and you don't cut out "bad moments" on your videos, I really appreciate your work, and for those that always posting their comments complaining about this and that, guys put there some links with your procedures, I will love to see if all of you never jump some steps/procedures or even do some mistakes. PEACE
Yup I wanted to buy my F150 a new caliper after it was stuck to the rotor then almost caught fire going down the road at 60mpr.. luckily I got the situation under control.. I'm betting it was even hot enough to warp the rotor too! didnt want to put a bunch of money into her cuz I'm working to get my new F150 on the road.. However, I'd still buy a new caliper for it, that's what stops your vehicle , brakes.. I like mine working like I do my steering wheel, right? Well since hubby says it's cheaper to rebuild, I guess that's what I'm doing, but gotta do my homework and research so I know the process and can just get it done, I need my ride.!! I am pleased with the level of teaching skill , straight forward, no jibber jabber, good information provided, I appreciate that! Thank you..
I- for one- much enjoy cameraman Brian. Past videos (pre-Brian) were *more* shaky; His work allows you to better perform tasks that require *TWO* hands to do properly. As you pointed out- this video is just merely an informative "quick fix"- and not a "professional" job. That said- given the low cost of new (or a rebuilt unit) it is false economy to waste labor on obviously worn or damaged parts; but the information gleaned from this video is well worth the experience. Thank you very much for all you do for us- ETCG & Brian.
Last thing. As I just found out for myself, you do NOT want to use any sharp, pointy object to get the boot into the groove as there's a good chance that you'll puncture or weaken it, allowing water to get in and gradually rust the sliding surfaces of the piston and bore, leading to seizing and all the rest. Eric got it half right. You slide the boot over the piston, but from the groove end, and pull it towards the other end, until enough of it is situated beyond the piston's end while the other end of the boot is still securely on the piston, and the boot should insert fairly easily into its groove at the top of the caliper bore. If you do it the way that Eric did it, there's a good chance that it'll slide off before it's inserted into the groove. I found this out the hard way recently and punctured a boot in the process.
Great video Eric, I'm not a fan of clamping brake hoses. I press the brake pedal lighty and choke it in the down position. Open the bleeder to release the pressure then continue on removal of calipers. After repair, bleed caliper done. Just a suggestion. Thanks for the great video
Eric, I love your channel you are awesome. As you know there are always multiple ways to do something and I want to share the way I do it, not saying my way is right and your way is wrong, you simply have to do it the way that works for you. I install the seal in the caliper first then hold the piston in place just above the seal before blasting air into the caliper from where the brake line connects. This will cause the seal to balloon out and jump up on the piston, after you've done a few of them you can do this and just a couple seconds and as soon as it jumps up you push the piston in and slam bam you're done. I suggest you try it sometime once he get used to it you will be amazed at how much easier it is to rebuild a caliper this way. Of course this method works better with single-piston calipers, if you have multiple piston you will have to install the other piston 4 Pistons without the seal and block them in place so the air is directed at only the Piston you are installing. Then after you install one piston you remove the others one at a time install the CEO put the Piston back in and continue whether it's a 2/4 or 6-piston caliper, however you have to fabricate a tool which could be as simple as a piece of wood to hold the Pistons in place so they are pop out while you're trying to get the seal around the piston. I've done these your way before until about 30 years ago when an old-timer should me this trick. I am now a retired Master auto technician having worked at many dealers both before and after cars where run by computers which means I've installed as many ignition points as I have running cars for codes and I worked on both mechanical and electronic fuel injection systems. In my career I watched many experience mechanics wash out because they couldn't keep up with the technology so I made it my point to never stop learning new stuff. I'm now a huge fan as you bring back a lot of memories of my lifelong career
thanks again eric i never realised the square seals helps the piston to return. I always thought was just the slides that seized that caused the lack of return. Excellent information.
While apprenticing in the late 70's we rebuilt calipers all the time. I always used wood to protect the piston while blowing it out with air. Many times the piston was reuseable. I would never expect a piston as pitted as that one to seat on the seal and would always leak slightly. when I push the piston back into the bore I use a large wrench to bridge across the piston so I could push it down squarely into the bore. After some practice I could rebuild most single piston calipers in 10 minutes once it was on the bench. 2 and 4 piston calipers are a whole different game.
As usual a bit of priceless insight @ 10.00 about how the seal causes to pressure to release off the pads after applying the brakes. Been wondering about that for years. ty Eric.
I usually put a block of wood in between the piston and the caliper body, works real good,man, its unnerving when those things pop out,Ive done about 10 calipers in my life and everytime i pop one i really have to get ready for it,lol, BANG!!!
I'm not proud of this; but air wasn't cutting it... so looking across the shop for a solution. I saw a half full 10lbs nitrous express bottle... Clean brake! Haha on two of my fingers, and shattered the majority of my ring finger! But the piston came out of that bore!!!
@@americancitizen1885 I didn't think about all that and pressed the brake (to start a car to check on smth. during some works on it) when the brakes were removed. Later I noticed a cylinder in the caliper. I tried to push it back into the caliper, the cylinder turned and fell down on the floor along with some brake fluid going in all directions. I guess this is the method, don't know if this will work on all the models. Make sure to release the banjo bolt first and put some rug around the piston before removing it. Car is 2001 Saturn SL2.
Thanks Eric. Tried replacing dust boot on 2001 Ford Taurus, it was paper thin, I'd just about get it on and it would tear apart. I don't like using screw drivers on rubber seals, punches small holes that you don't notice. I grind old paint brush and small wire brush handles to form as needed. You can also buy brass rod stock and cut and beat to form.
Hey Eric! I just finished this in my driveway with he best success I've ever had working on cars. Thank you so much for your guidance :) I found a couple tricks myself too- for instance (if you leave the caliper connected to the brake line) simply loosening the bleeder valve allows the piston to go back into caliper without compressing air. Also when I bled the brake, I kept the vice grip on the hose, applied pressure to the brake pedal, and loosened the bleeder until all the air was out and the brake fluid flowed freely. (one or two tries to be sure). Took her for a test run and couldnt be happier. Made me feel much happier after two days of dwelling on all this donald trump crap. Thanks again!
Great video. I got lucky, a little surface rust on the piston, but no pitting. I don't know what caused my failure but one of my pads was completely void of friction material and had ruined a rotor. Both calipers had torn boots, but the pistons, square seal, and bores were fine. I suspect a hose, since the truck is 33 years old, so I'm replacing them. Did the master cylinder a few years back and the hard lines, so they should be good to go. I don't know what got the boots, chemicals is my guess.
Excellent, excellent video. I'll just add that in seating the dust seal, I would use a popsicle stick rather than a metal screwdriver. You may have to take a knife and whittle it down a bit to fit better. Also, I would use a small flat piece of wood (maybe plywood and a C clamp to seat the piston into the caliper. That way you have wood against metal, and it allows for even pressure over the piston. Thanks Eric very much appreciated. Now I feel confident in doing that job on my truck. Oh, one more thing. Depending on how long it's been, this may be a good time to repack your wheel bearings.
dont understand why you didnt try to smooth it up with a little emery paper or fine grit sand paper or even a wire brush wheel. the seal makes up for the tolerance if it slides freely
Great video, that shows us less informed tinkerers how a caliper works on the inside. Don't pay any of the negative comments too much attention, the way I see it the video still served it's purpose which is learning how to rebuild a caliper as opposed to buying a new one.
yes I've used liquid metal compound to do this but you have to prepare the cylinder by giving it something to key to - really needs to be plunged with an end mill to remove all affected area - not something to might do with something so small (then ground to size), on larger bore situations it works very well but I've only used it as a temporary solution. Maybe having metal electrolysis to add some meat then having it ground finished to size - again though you have to decide if it's worth the cost.
Way too much effort considering a new/rebuilt caliper isn't very expensive. I could see wanting to do this if you have a classic and it still has the original calipers in it, though.
Thank you again ETCG! I don't rebuild calipers on client vehicles. But when my Mazda caliper failed The only rational thought was; No time like the present to learn. Instead of paying $96 per caliper, i paid $7.96 for the seal and boot, and $12.50 for the piston, which is actually an upgraded piston from what I had... I didn't think to look up a video, but that dust boot had me worried! So thank you for the reassurance!!! I nailed that one! Thank you, AGAIN! -Samuel G. SouthTown Performance
All things being equal, if you had replaced the piston with a new one, would this have been a rebuild you would have done for a paying customer and be happy with the results?
EricTheCarGuy I am with eric no one rebuilds anything anymore. I know they teach how to rebuild things in automotive school but no one got the time or interest in rebuilding any automotive part. I am pretty sure new upcoming techs dont even know how to rebuild a carburetor
MrChubhub22 A $12 kit will repair a Toyota starter almost every time it fails. Or you can buy one for $80. A $15 kit for the alternator. If replacing the two seals and the piston will fix the caliper, it is better than spending $80 for the rebuild.
acoow I meant as for a paying customer. if you rebuild things these days you will reach prices similar to buying a complete part. I do agree if it is for your own personal parts that you are doing, its ok to rebuild anything. but not for paying customers.
Dealers to rebuild calipers, warranty usually will not pay to replace them unless the caliper body is damaged somehow. Also some shops to rebuild calipers, I myself have done hundreds of them. I've also rebuilt many wheel cylinders as you can often do them without messing with rusted brake lines.
I needed this video, it came right on time. Your how to find a leak video also helped me yesterday too! Found a leak in the trunk of my Cressida with the thought of your video in the back of my mind, explained some rust too. Also cameraman Brian had some great shots. Keep it up guys
Yes it would. Brake fluid attracts water, as it does the water rusts away at the metal parts, well the brake fluid becomes acidic eating away at the seals. This is why the fluid can turn black (seals) or brown (rust). So changing it like you should will prevent brake failure.
Jose Lozano Ah, thanks for the information. I'm religious with my fluid changes and do it all myself, but when it comes to brakes I just don't think of doing it. I've never had any brake problems though, so I guess I should give a few knocks on something that's hard and wooden lol.
Yes, regular brake fluid changes would help. Brake fluid attracts water naturally. It's also good to change brake fluid to make sure your boiling point stays up where it's suppose to be. The more moisture, the lower the boiling point.
Indeed both of you are right. Regular brake fluid changes will reduce or eliminate the damage done by moisture, but it does pull in moisture from it's surroundings, even in a totally sealed system like a brake system or power steering system, transmission etc. Hence the reason for changing it out, even if it is clean looking every couple of years. Metal is porous as is plastic, just not on a visible level, but under a microscope, they are certainly porous and as such can pull moisture in from the environment. Which in turn corrodes metals and turns the fluid acidic and eats seals. Lesson 1 in proper vehicle maintenance. CHANGE THOSE FLUIDS! It will save you TONS of repairs, unexpected breakdowns and money down the road. I've seen the difference and it is HUGE! Change your fluids and you will remain trouble free and richer in the future. Fluids are DIRT CHEAP by comparison to new parts. No reason not to. Keep a log/history of your fluid changes and mileage and when they are due. There's even an app for that! Lol.
Pistons are rarely made out of steel anymore so this issue is old. Even when this classic car was made many manufacturers were moving away from metal Pistons. In fact the Chrysler rebuild kit from Mopar includes a replacement piston, I can't be sure what materials are made out of but they appeared to be similar to Bakelite. I'm sure modern technology has better alternatives today
@@dondakota920 The pistons in the calipers in my 2010 Honda Civic are definitely steel. The old pistons were quite rusty in the part that's exposed, but the part that's covered by the rubber boot and cylinder was pretty much free of rust. Next time I replace the pistons I'm gonna cover the exposed parts with high temperature grease to give it a bit more rust protection.
Eric, I would like to add that many of the cheaper reman calipers do not have brand new pistons. I learned this the hard way when I installed a Cardone reman on my rsx-s. Upon bleeding the system, the caliper would not release, and had to be pried off with a crowbar. Upon removing the piston, it was pitted a hundred times worse than the one in your vid. Also, a bad caliper can cause suspension related issues, especially steering wheel shaking. On my rsx, the original calipers were also pitted so bad, it would bind and then suddenly release, resulting in a violent popping sound when coming to a stop. Sometimes the calipers would bind randomly when driving, thus overheating the brakes to the point of boiling the fluid.
I really enjoyd watching this video. I heared other technicians recommend Permatex Lubricant because it doesn't damage seals and pin boots. Regards from Beirut-Lebanon
That of course is the price for a cheap rebuilt caliper on a common car, many cost much more. I once replaced four-wheel calipers on an early 80s GM luxury car, I think it was a Buick Riviera but I don't remember for sure and one of the bleeder screws broke off. A remanufactured caliper cost $270 back then and the core charge of $150. We ended up buying a used caliper from a junkyard for $30 but could not get the bleeding screw out of it either even using heat and the junkyard wouldn't take it back because we tampered with it and eventually broke the screw again. We ended up buying the rebuild caliper and the supplier contacted the manufacturer and agreed to buy the junkyard caliper from us for $50 which I assume was a bargain considering they were asking $150 core charge, so we made a little money from the junkyard caliper to make up for all the wasted time, but some cars or not so cheap to service. If you want a car that's cheap to service make sure to get something that's mass produced so aftermarket parts are plentiful as well as used parts.
Back before the internet, calipers were expensive. Parts in general were expensive. Nowadays you can buy a rotor for the cost that most places will charge you for turning your old one. Local parts stores stay in business for three reasons: people that need a part right now and can't wait to order it online, mechanics and garages that don't care what the price is because they're passing the cost onto the customer (Scotty Killmor) and people that don't have internet (old people and poor people.)
When rebuilding calipers, I always installed the dust boot and used compressed air to blow the dust boot up around the piston. Have to use low pressure air and watch your fingers though. Rebuilt many Ford calipers that way. One thing I despised was the plastic pistons that were used in Chrysler products. They would actually wedge into place and in some cases air wouldn't pop them out. I have chisled many plastic pistons out and took them out in pieces.
Replace the piston. The piston returns back because the vacuum. When you pres the brake pedal you create pressure, when you take the foot off you create suction.
No this is not true, it's vibrations that work the Piston back into the caliper as you drive down the road. When a brake line gets plugged it's because the inside is deteriorating and a flap comes loose folds over and plugs the hose.
@@hjonedmonds not true oh, I guess you have never rebuild a master cylinder or you would know when the brake pedal is released a valve is activated to allow the pressurized fluid to return to the reservoir. There is no suction involved there is simply pressure than pressure released and the vibrations from the rotor loosen the calipers hold on the brake pads.
Don Dakota I have rebuilt master cylinders for forty years and I have yet to rebuild one without a return spring that pushes the piston back which in turn pulls the fluid back.
Not necessarily, the SAE declared that New Automobile designs starting 1980 model year would be designed in Metric. Some manufacturers that began designing in 1979 or even in 1978 for 1980s models thought it wise to do any clean sheet designs in metric from the get go- IE GM X Cars (1979).Unable to verify the Ford Fairmont standard, I'd say it was metric because it came out in 1978 with a long projected model run (Until 1983) well into the Metric age.
Eric did not loose that seal in that bottle. He created an opportunity to see what was at the bottom of the bottle. Good mechanics create opportunities - that's how you tell them apart.
Retired mechanic here giving Eric a big thumbs up! He does these videos to help others....a GOOD guy!....david
top man .. my father worked at Dunlop in the UK . brakes . he told me about the small retract function of the seal. In the caliper the seating face has a slight ANGLE on the pressure face . which the seal rocks on .. Well done .. I am now 75 years old and can remember what my father told me . Excellent . I use a special FLEXHONE to clean up the caliper piston bores .. Great video and top man .
I never realized a caliper was that simple. Thanks for the video sir. Keep up the good work.
Old trucker here . For temporary fix on the piston , clean it real good , heat it up with propane put flux on the pitted area and work in some. Solder,then smooth out it works . KEEP ON TRUCKING ,,!
I bet that would have worked!
If I was working on something that a new piston was not available, I'd probably try plating it and honing it to size. permanently fixed.
glad to see common sense existed 5 years ago
somehow all people in the comment section are okay with the idea, to put that marred piston back in, no repair, no smoothing no nothing. just stick that mofo back in, and call it "temporary"
this video is really poisonous, as its supposed to educate
@@DarkIzo Well you should see Nascar's temporary repairs...
☝🤣
Eric should have purchased and used a new piston, no doubt about it, without question.
I love it Warts and all , losing the ring down the bottle. It's so true when he makes and shares his mistakes that we don't make the same the same ones. Eric's the best.
I love how he shows his mistakes. Most people would've cut that dropping the seal into the fluid, but Eric shows the whole flapdoodle. Huge respect.
I was thinking "What's he going to do to prevent... THAT!" ...and here I thought he was more experienced than me!
😅👍
Having that hook there putting the seal in the bottle would be the only way unless you put some in a dish. To lube it up.
Kool video when I do brakes on my truck I’ll pull them apart and see if they are rebuildable.
"It's by hope, that, the other side doesn't get jealous", I really second this, ha ha ha. The most wisest and accurate hope a D.I.Y car mechanic could ask for.
Had a 73 chev pu back around 85. Brought up quick at a red light. Drivers side front wheel locked up. Managed to get about a 100 meters and parked it all day due to some other commitments. Came back around 5 pm. Removed the wheel, took a hammer ,squat and bent back a piece of the steel brake line. Squat again. Drove a flat top between the rotor and pad on the piston side. Drove 230 miles or about 380 km back to home and made good repairs. Moral of the story. Carry a few tools.
Great vid. Amazing how little this detail has changed over the decades.
p.s. Another way re the dust seal, is to fit it into the calliper without the piston, then sit the piston on the top of the seal and then a little puff of low pressure compressed air into the back of the calliper (via the banjo/pipe hole) will blow the seal up and around the piston. Works every time, job done.
Thats interesting, thanks for the heads up on that.
Thanks for that tip. After hours of trying different ways, this worked instantly!
That is the way it should be done you should blow it over so you do not damage it.
Ok
Thanks Eric for the insight and general entertainment... always appreciated. It was go to see you go through the complete steps... I am in the middle of (managing a stuck caliper) cleaning, repair / rebuild... a friend asked why I did not just buy a new one. [partly funds] and mostly I wanted just to learn more about wrenching on my Jeep WJ brakes, which when done will be like new... I was torn with it just being a 'collapsed' brake line... which I am replacing both of the 'original looking' brake lines... replacing worn guide pins, re-lubing them, new boots. While doing all of that, I wire brushed and (lightly) painted the wheel hub surface, inner and outer rotor surfaces and will use anti-seized between all mated surfaces and the wheel to eliminate any possibility of 'wheel wobble'. Always, always learning and evolving...
honestly you make working as technician seem simple and enjoyable. In some cases fun, It really has me motivated.
Depends as long as your not one of those guys who gets all fired up when something doesn't go his way it can be enjoyable ... I did it for about a year and changed professions I still do everything including customization on my own vehicles but that's all I don't touch other peoples machines anymore unless it's extenuating circumstances. people who know nothing bitch too much. I had a lady go bananas because she needed to replace the caliper after driving so long with it seized that she wore the pads off totally and grinded 1/2 inch groves into the rotor from the caliper pistons... no joke it was into the fins in the centers of the rotors never had i seen something like it prior or since crazy it got to that point.
The quality of the sound and video is great. Showing the fine details of what you are trying to show the audience is awesome. Thanks you for this channel.
"penny wise and pound foolish"
Damn that came out swift and was a very nice analogy, great video as well
Thanks, Eric. I invested in a car lift to take care of my family's machines and cars. I do not have the first idea about anything. I am completely clueless. Watching your very detailed videos about the basic jobs enables me to keep everything running.
Sponsor the education of a mechanic every family needs one. a plumber, electrician carpenter etc.
I never knew that the square cut seal was designed to pull the caliper back. What an elegant, simple design.
I know. It acts as a seal and spring. Who knew?
doc phibz Professionals technicians know…:)
You have to SPIN the piston into the square cut seal with the channelocks. Dont just push straight down.
Do NOT try to race any vehicle that only has four lugs per wheel on ANY kind of racetrack !!!!!! Should not even pass tech inspection. And you should know better.
Neal Feero i could be wrong but I am pretty sure he was being sarcastic.
This video still reminder me that you are one of the best UA-camrs on auto repairs
Hey Eric! I have watched many of your videos now and am a long term subscriber. From some of the comments it seems that people care more about your personal requirements for the vehicle rather than the invaluable information that you kindly share with us. I just want to say thank you for all the time and effort you put in and I am truly grateful for people like you. I will continue to support your channel as many of your videos have helped with countless car repairs, including this one! keep up the good work :)
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God Bless you Sir, for showing me how to do these things on my own, giving me the confidence to do it, and being someone I trust!
Yes it's a dog eat dog world out there, mechanics are too expensive.Pop in a component $450.oo !!! Went in for an oil change ended up paying $1200.oo for assorted things.
I watch all the car videos on youtube and yours are right near the top. But I really noticed your comment about the "other side getting jealous". Oh so true. Don't do something to one vehicle and not the other because the next time you want to drive the other vehicle she will not start or some other calamity will take place. You are truly experienced.
Eric, thanks for this excellent video. It gave me the confidence to rebuild my own calipers and change the discs and pads. I found two things along the way though:
First, I could NOT push the piston in without the special tool. After a frustrating hour I bought that tool (about 40 Euros) and it fits multiple car types/makes. Problem solved. This unexpected purchase meant nothing on the bottom line since the whole operation saved me hundreds of euros (as compared to the official dealership). Secondly, after bleeding the brakes I heard a faint hissing sound from the brake pedal even no more (visible) bubbles remained after bleeding all four brakes. The brakes are working fine though and the sound is audible only when the engine runs. I guess it is the brake booster letting in outside air into the chamber that builds up pressure against the other (vacuum) chamber.
I just watched several videos where the piston almost fell back into the bore with little effort. It's nice to see a realistic video showing the effort I've been going through to try and get that damn piston back in. At first I tried lubricating it with brake fluid - no go. Then I found out about a miracle grease (Red Rubber grease) supposedly used by caliper repair shops - still no go. I used a giant "C" clamp - no go. I don't have a giant Channel Lock so I'm thinking seriously of spending the $ 35 apiece and buying a pair of rebuilt calipers.
Eric, thanks for the vid. I prefer to remove the brake shoes completely to keep them clean and dry and free from possible piston impact damage. Just use a piece of scrap 1x4 or similar to catch the piston once you apply air pressure. Less clean up and safer.
Important Lesson on this video: " I am not gonna use the wrench impact machine, I'm gonna start it with a couple of thread to go". This is so important to do but not only on that part. It should be with every screw u wanna thread. U can not imagine how much I learned from u. Thanks a lot.
Great video, I've done it myself before. I have a couple of tips, first one when putting the new rubber on, is to be sure to do it right. If it starts getting hard to do or taking time, the rubber will likely take some damage. The rubber is easy to put in place, it should not pop up again and again.
Second tip is when the cylinder is being pushed into the caliper, it will likey get stuck because it doesn't come in straight. Try rotating the cylinder or pushing it the right way, you should feel when it settles straight and then it's easy to press into the caliper.
My conclusion of this work is if the jobs get done without struggles you are probably doing it right!
Hey there Eric the Car Guy - thank God for awesome dudes like you who have inspired me - and - been there to help me out when I’m in a jam! Much Love! Hey also stoked that I’ve been able to fix several cars I’ve had including today - was a grease monkey but feeling great now problems fixed!! 🥰
"We never want to put it in dry." Eric the Car Guy, 2014
LAWL
can't believe it's been 9 YEARS since you got the Fairmont. Time freaking flies by
Hey let's put this seal right into the bottle, that will be a real quick and easy way to lubricate the seal before installing it..... Thanks for "falling on the sword" for us Eric!! Short cuts, got to love em!! =)
You don't never use brake put on the ceiling to make it swell and you can't give in
all you haters out there need to take a chill pill, I've been turning wrenches since the 70's for a living and i happen to find Eric the car guy videos very helpful, a Customer has never had a accident due to any of the repairs that i have done on any vehicle, and yet i have done some of the same things Eric has shown on his web site, i think it's great that Eric takes some time out of his schedule to do this.
Not only are your videos educational, but they are very entertaining to watch. Glad you got a cameraman to help you, hopefully gives you more hands and better time to repair things. Interesting to see how easy it is to change brakepads on that ford compared to my '94 626 mazda.
Thank you, and looking forward to new videos. :-)
Eric's silicone-paste-only advocacy re:brake slide pins has proven to be solid advice time and time again for me. I had been using CRC caliper grease and it'd always dry out and the pins would start to stick. I don't even know why they sell the stuff- it sucks. Then again, CRC also makes "belt dressing" aka snake oil.
I will say that if you have a VW, be careful with clamping off the line like Eric does here. I discovered that, at least for an 03 Golf, the "rubber" brake lines near the caliper are actually soft-ish hard lines covered in a rubber casing. It bent and (thankfully in this case) didn't clamp off successfully. I had to un-smush the line after taking the needle nose vice grips (protected with fuel line) off.
My temporary solutions, more often than not, become permanent...
for now is forever. lol
Especially when you spent hours or days doing it.
Like a government program.
I'm getting this tattooed, lol
Eric you have one of the best channels on auto repair. Thank you sir
great tutorial :) though here in the uk, on average, a new calliper cost on average about £120+, but a full rebuild kit for both callipers including new pistons, is around £40, so you can save quite a bit of money if you're willing to put a little time and effort into it :) and its always great to have that satisfaction, that you fixed it :)
First of all - Eric the Car Guy is the man - THE MAN - something about your vids and communication that make it feel like I am going to "make it through" a tough job - With this vid as my inspiration - I sorted out a very sticky wheel on an '08 Impala that I had just acquired - hub was heating up big time, was undriveable - but I wanted to share what the problem ultimately was - having seen this vid, I took the caliper off and rebuilt it, easy b/c Eric's vid is grrreat - but, wheel was still funky - wtf - shook my head for a bit, noticed as I tightened the cal bracket, it was a little askew - finally realized there had to be something in the caliper slide (its a 15yo, 175K car - so its seen stuff) sure enough, an old piece of slide boot was in there causing the bracket to be "out of square" upon tightening and for the top corner of the pads to contact the rotor at all times (pads were worn unevenly, that shouldv tipped me off but I thought that was due to lack of lube (silicone of course :)) - fished the piece of rubber out (used a drill bit actually (by hand)) and she was right as rain - all due to Eric the Car Guy's guidance - remain calm and just do what he says!
I like how you left that part in when you dropped that seal in the brake fluid lol
I’ll have you come come over to pick it it is the day we we aww we can go get get ready wand we rerwwwill w4 is that q
If you have rust/pitting you have moisture. When I was a kid master cylinders weren't see through plastic reservoirs. You had to pull the cap to see the level. Most people pulled them alot and topped off the level. EVERY time you pull the cap you introduce air with new moisture. Yes air contains moisture class. A brake system/caliper master cylinders, proportioning valves, etc... if not tampered with by letting in moisture, will last alot longer. The level drop is an indication of brake pads wearing and fills the caliper cup until you replace the pads and push or remove fluid from caliper.
FYI to people watching this video, you may want to consider rebuilding your own calipers. I went to autozone to get a replacement caliper and it turns out they just use the old pistons (same with O'Reilly...probably Pep Boys too). So if you buy a remanufactured caliper there you are paying for a caliper that has been cleaned and given new rubber boots BUT it's the same old pistons. I found that the pistons in the re-man at autozone were removed by an idiot...they were all scratched up and dented. My pistons were in way better condition so I just rebuilt the caliper which truly was not very difficult even though I have a 4-runner and each caliper has 4 pistons. If you can get a re-man with a new piston it might be worth it, but IMO I think you're better off rebuilding the one's you have.
So true!!
their parts are junk I bought a duralast remanufactured rear caliper from them last week, because my rear right parking break wasn't working and it wouldn't pass state inspection like that, so i installed the "new" duralast caliper and it didn't work at all, so I went to the junkyard and got a working caliper ( i tested it while it was on the car) for about 10 bucks, and installed on my car and all is fine.
Autozone wouldn't give me a refund for the "remanufactured" P.O.S duralast caliper because I "installed" it......one of the employees even had the nerve to tell me the part i was returning wasn't from autozone because it had a ford logo on it and he claimed that "duralast doesn't make" calipers with "ford" logos T_T
Lesson learned, avoid autozones "reman" parts.......I should have went to the junkyard in the first place, only money I got back was the core.
With those iffy rebuilds, I wonder if it might be a good idea to check for smooth action on the piston before going ahead and installing it. Push out the piston with the compressed air part of the way, then see that it will slide back in smoothly without hanging up. Have to be really careful not to blow it out of the bore completely though, so either use a pad retraction tool or put it over the old rotor with old pads to limit the travel.
Was getting ready to buy a pair of AutoZone reman calipers & stumbled across this video & posts. So... I went on to www.autozone.com 10 minutes ago & opened an online chat with a rep, asked about their Duralast remanufactured calipers, part #'s D6028 & D6029: "Can you tell me what caliper components are replaced/reconditioned, specifically with this reman caliper? Does the caliper get a new piston, as well as square-cut seal & dust boot?" The response from AutoZone representative "Omar" was as follows: [Omar] "The calipers get a new piston, seals, and dust boots on the piston." So, trying to sort fact from fiction in the comments above, the options seem to be as follows: Either A), You had a uniquely bad experience, inconsistent with Autozone's stated rebuild practices for these parts, b) Autozone has changed its practices to include new pistons, not old (as you claimed) since your original post, or C), Omar, from Autozone just lied to me about their remanufacturing process for their DuraLast calipers. seems unlikely. UPDATE: 11/4/17, I bought the Autozone calipers, haven't installed yet, but they look (not OEM, but) decent enough. We'll see. UPDATE: 7/22/20: Back in '17, I swapped the pair of front calipers for an Auto Zone rebuilt set in my ‘08 C350. Akebono Ceramic pad set. No problems over 2 years/20kmi later. By feel, perform just as good as OEM. YMMV.
you really think they will tell you they use the junk old caliper with what thye charge, come on get real, the person wprobably doesnt even know
@@edvanhalen9056 Dunno anything about Autozone or Omar, but AFAIK pistons don't have bushings. The caliper might have them for the pins to slide onj
I used a wire wheel on the piston and a cylinder honing tool on the cylinder when I rebuilt the brake calipers on my 300ZX (Z32) a few years ago. Still braking marvelously. Well worth the effort and saved me about $300!!!
EricTheCarGuy now with camera man :) very nice... thanks for the video
Thank you for your videos EricTheCarGuy, I really learned a lot with you, even when you do something wrong, because you always say what you are doing wrong and you don't cut out "bad moments" on your videos, I really appreciate your work, and for those that always posting their comments complaining about this and that, guys put there some links with your procedures, I will love to see if all of you never jump some steps/procedures or even do some mistakes. PEACE
Thank you! I took my piston out using the brake pedal.
YEP!!! If the piston is too much trouble to come out...then...it's time for rebuilt calipers...
same here... a block of wood to limit travel...
Smart!
Yup I wanted to buy my F150 a new caliper after it was stuck to the rotor then almost caught fire going down the road at 60mpr.. luckily I got the situation under control.. I'm betting it was even hot enough to warp the rotor too! didnt want to put a bunch of money into her cuz I'm working to get my new F150 on the road.. However, I'd still buy a new caliper for it, that's what stops your vehicle , brakes.. I like mine working like I do my steering wheel, right? Well since hubby says it's cheaper to rebuild, I guess that's what I'm doing, but gotta do my homework and research so I know the process and can just get it done, I need my ride.!! I am pleased with the level of teaching skill , straight forward, no jibber jabber, good information provided, I appreciate that! Thank you..
Really good camarawork! Keep that man, Eric
Thanks for the memories. I have many memories of working on the simpler cars when I was younger.
Eric, you forgot to make your callipers "Mighty Car Mods Certified"! you need to paint them red!
I- for one- much enjoy cameraman Brian. Past videos (pre-Brian) were *more* shaky; His work allows you to better perform tasks that require *TWO* hands to do properly. As you pointed out- this video is just merely an informative "quick fix"- and not a "professional" job. That said- given the low cost of new (or a rebuilt unit) it is false economy to waste labor on obviously worn or damaged parts; but the information gleaned from this video is well worth the experience. Thank you very much for all you do for us- ETCG & Brian.
I have always used a C clamp to compress the caliper
Same here I also use a brake piston tool
I prefer C-Clamp style locking pliers like those made by Irwin/(Vice Grip 6R)
C clamp won’t push the piston out
Last thing. As I just found out for myself, you do NOT want to use any sharp, pointy object to get the boot into the groove as there's a good chance that you'll puncture or weaken it, allowing water to get in and gradually rust the sliding surfaces of the piston and bore, leading to seizing and all the rest.
Eric got it half right. You slide the boot over the piston, but from the groove end, and pull it towards the other end, until enough of it is situated beyond the piston's end while the other end of the boot is still securely on the piston, and the boot should insert fairly easily into its groove at the top of the caliper bore. If you do it the way that Eric did it, there's a good chance that it'll slide off before it's inserted into the groove. I found this out the hard way recently and punctured a boot in the process.
Very informative.....Thanks man Your a good teacher
Thank you for all you do Eric. I have been watching your videos for several years and they have helped me do several repairs.
This video was very professional
So professional, what are you laughing for.
Great video Eric, I'm not a fan of clamping brake hoses. I press the brake pedal lighty and choke it in the down position. Open the bleeder to release the pressure then continue on removal of calipers. After repair, bleed caliper done. Just a suggestion. Thanks for the great video
18:52: Eric gets Shakespearean: "I fall on my sword for you".
Eric, I love your channel you are awesome. As you know there are always multiple ways to do something and I want to share the way I do it, not saying my way is right and your way is wrong, you simply have to do it the way that works for you. I install the seal in the caliper first then hold the piston in place just above the seal before blasting air into the caliper from where the brake line connects. This will cause the seal to balloon out and jump up on the piston, after you've done a few of them you can do this and just a couple seconds and as soon as it jumps up you push the piston in and slam bam you're done. I suggest you try it sometime once he get used to it you will be amazed at how much easier it is to rebuild a caliper this way. Of course this method works better with single-piston calipers, if you have multiple piston you will have to install the other piston 4 Pistons without the seal and block them in place so the air is directed at only the Piston you are installing. Then after you install one piston you remove the others one at a time install the CEO put the Piston back in and continue whether it's a 2/4 or 6-piston caliper, however you have to fabricate a tool which could be as simple as a piece of wood to hold the Pistons in place so they are pop out while you're trying to get the seal around the piston. I've done these your way before until about 30 years ago when an old-timer should me this trick. I am now a retired Master auto technician having worked at many dealers both before and after cars where run by computers which means I've installed as many ignition points as I have running cars for codes and I worked on both mechanical and electronic fuel injection systems. In my career I watched many experience mechanics wash out because they couldn't keep up with the technology so I made it my point to never stop learning new stuff. I'm now a huge fan as you bring back a lot of memories of my lifelong career
Thanks! I always wondered how it is done.
thanks again eric i never realised the square seals helps the piston to return. I always thought was just the slides that seized that caused the lack of return. Excellent information.
very good camera work!
While apprenticing in the late 70's we rebuilt calipers all the time. I always used wood to protect the piston while blowing it out with air. Many times the piston was reuseable. I would never expect a piston as pitted as that one to seat on the seal and would always leak slightly. when I push the piston back into the bore I use a large wrench to bridge across the piston so I could push it down squarely into the bore. After some practice I could rebuild most single piston calipers in 10 minutes once it was on the bench. 2 and 4 piston calipers are a whole different game.
Wet fine grit sandpaper to clean up piston.and every time you do brakes rote piston it keeps it from wearing on one side
exactly
also, I like to use that fine grit sandpaper in the piston bore...
As usual a bit of priceless insight @ 10.00 about how the seal causes to pressure to release off the pads after applying the brakes. Been wondering about that for years. ty Eric.
i blew a piston out with an airline once it shot past my head like a bullet and put a massive dint in the workshop roof. the boss was not happy.
I usually put a block of wood in between the piston and the caliper body, works real good,man, its unnerving when those things pop out,Ive done about 10 calipers in my life and everytime i pop one i really have to get ready for it,lol, BANG!!!
I'm not proud of this; but air wasn't cutting it... so looking across the shop for a solution. I saw a half full 10lbs nitrous express bottle... Clean brake! Haha on two of my fingers, and shattered the majority of my ring finger! But the piston came out of that bore!!!
@@southtown2366 JACKAASSSSSS
@@americancitizen1885 bicycle or foot pump will also work, bit more work obviously, but is safer as well!
@@americancitizen1885 I didn't think about all that and pressed the brake (to start a car to check on smth. during some works on it) when the brakes were removed. Later I noticed a cylinder in the caliper. I tried to push it back into the caliper, the cylinder turned and fell down on the floor along with some brake fluid going in all directions. I guess this is the method, don't know if this will work on all the models. Make sure to release the banjo bolt first and put some rug around the piston before removing it. Car is 2001 Saturn SL2.
Thanks Eric. Tried replacing dust boot on 2001 Ford Taurus, it was paper thin, I'd just about get it on and it would tear apart. I don't like using screw drivers on rubber seals, punches small holes that you don't notice. I grind old paint brush and small wire brush handles to form as needed. You can also buy brass rod stock and cut and beat to form.
Hey Eric! I just finished this in my driveway with he best success I've ever had working on cars. Thank you so much for your guidance :) I found a couple tricks myself too- for instance (if you leave the caliper connected to the brake line) simply loosening the bleeder valve allows the piston to go back into caliper without compressing air. Also when I bled the brake, I kept the vice grip on the hose, applied pressure to the brake pedal, and loosened the bleeder until all the air was out and the brake fluid flowed freely. (one or two tries to be sure). Took her for a test run and couldnt be happier. Made me feel much happier after two days of dwelling on all this donald trump crap.
Thanks again!
obey your president
I would have bought a caliper, but appreciate you taking the time to demonstrate the caliper rebuild. I have never seen one rebuilt before.
great job !! I normally rebuild the caliper while they are on the car use use pedal pressure to force the piston out.
Same here. Came out easily.
Still the best automotive tutorials on UA-cam. Long live ETCG.
Eric, y u no paint it red for the +25 KW??
+Billy Holcroft.. haha mighty car mods rocks !!
fuck yeah
That only works in Australia. Here in Merica red calipers only add 10 hp.
Well i live in South-Africa. Here we dont use calipers. Cause brakes are for pussies.
😂😂😂
Great video. I got lucky, a little surface rust on the piston, but no pitting. I don't know what caused my failure but one of my pads was completely void of friction material and had ruined a rotor. Both calipers had torn boots, but the pistons, square seal, and bores were fine. I suspect a hose, since the truck is 33 years old, so I'm replacing them. Did the master cylinder a few years back and the hard lines, so they should be good to go. I don't know what got the boots, chemicals is my guess.
Use a large "C" clamp to seat the piston back in the bore. Channel locks are "NOT" the right tool for the job.
With a thin block of wood or wood paint stirrer.
Excellent, excellent video. I'll just add that in seating the dust seal, I would use a popsicle stick rather than a metal screwdriver. You may have to take a knife and whittle it down a bit to fit better. Also, I would use a small flat piece of wood (maybe plywood and a C clamp to seat the piston into the caliper. That way you have wood against metal, and it allows for even pressure over the piston.
Thanks Eric very much appreciated. Now I feel confident in doing that job on my truck.
Oh, one more thing. Depending on how long it's been, this may be a good time to repack your wheel bearings.
Hope that pitted piston sealed ok eric, as you said its just temp so no need to go mad :-))
Smashing video, as allways :-))
dont understand why you didnt try to smooth it up with a little emery paper or fine grit sand paper or even a wire brush wheel. the seal makes up for the tolerance if it slides freely
Eric the car guy, you are bad ass. I enjoy all your videos! Thank you.
Love the New Camera Guy
Great video, that shows us less informed tinkerers how a caliper works on the inside. Don't pay any of the negative comments too much attention, the way I see it the video still served it's purpose which is learning how to rebuild a caliper as opposed to buying a new one.
Is it possible to fill in the pitting on the piston with something like quiksteel or jb weld, then sand it down, especially being a temporary fix?
OMG! Really?
yes I've used liquid metal compound to do this but you have to prepare the cylinder by giving it something to key to - really needs to be plunged with an end mill to remove all affected area - not something to might do with something so small (then ground to size), on larger bore situations it works very well but I've only used it as a temporary solution. Maybe having metal electrolysis to add some meat then having it ground finished to size - again though you have to decide if it's worth the cost.
Cleaning the pitting out with acid then using solder works great too. The same process of grinding it down. Then just polish it smooth.
why not just get a new piston? theyre not $$$...
Way too much effort considering a new/rebuilt caliper isn't very expensive. I could see wanting to do this if you have a classic and it still has the original calipers in it, though.
Thank you again ETCG! I don't rebuild calipers on client vehicles. But when my Mazda caliper failed The only rational thought was; No time like the present to learn. Instead of paying $96 per caliper, i paid $7.96 for the seal and boot, and $12.50 for the piston, which is actually an upgraded piston from what I had... I didn't think to look up a video, but that dust boot had me worried! So thank you for the reassurance!!! I nailed that one!
Thank you, AGAIN!
-Samuel G.
SouthTown Performance
All things being equal, if you had replaced the piston with a new one, would this have been a rebuild you would have done for a paying customer and be happy with the results?
I would have replaced the caliper for a 'paying' customer.
EricTheCarGuy I am with eric no one rebuilds anything anymore. I know they teach how to rebuild things in automotive school but no one got the time or interest in rebuilding any automotive part. I am pretty sure new upcoming techs dont even know how to rebuild a carburetor
MrChubhub22
A $12 kit will repair a Toyota starter almost every time it fails. Or you can buy one for $80. A $15 kit for the alternator. If replacing the two seals and the piston will fix the caliper, it is better than spending $80 for the rebuild.
acoow I meant as for a paying customer. if you rebuild things these days you will reach prices similar to buying a complete part. I do agree if it is for your own personal parts that you are doing, its ok to rebuild anything. but not for paying customers.
Wow 4 videos i have used now from you to tell me what to do, awesome. You do 100% percent of the car, in videos. Good job sir.
no auto shop rebuilds calipers especially with how cheap new ones are, only time i rebuilt one was in tech school
Dealers to rebuild calipers, warranty usually will not pay to replace them unless the caliper body is damaged somehow. Also some shops to rebuild calipers, I myself have done hundreds of them. I've also rebuilt many wheel cylinders as you can often do them without messing with rusted brake lines.
Most/many people watching this are not from an auto shop...
We used to use a hone on the caliper to clean out the bore of the caliper. Also the pistons were cleaned with emery clothe.
si le das vuelta al piston entra mas facil y evitas danar la liga
saludos!
Hey Eric I googled this and another video came up but I was disappointed.
Yours is so much more detailed …thank you
I'm not enjoying the flying camera as well. Video content is still very good :)
I needed this video, it came right on time. Your how to find a leak video also helped me yesterday too! Found a leak in the trunk of my Cressida with the thought of your video in the back of my mind, explained some rust too. Also cameraman Brian had some great shots. Keep it up guys
How does moisture make its way into the piston area causing it to rust? Would regular brake fluid changes prevent this from happening?
Yes it would. Brake fluid attracts water, as it does the water rusts away at the metal parts, well the brake fluid becomes acidic eating away at the seals. This is why the fluid can turn black (seals) or brown (rust). So changing it like you should will prevent brake failure.
Jose Lozano Ah, thanks for the information. I'm religious with my fluid changes and do it all myself, but when it comes to brakes I just don't think of doing it. I've never had any brake problems though, so I guess I should give a few knocks on something that's hard and wooden lol.
Yes, regular brake fluid changes would help. Brake fluid attracts water naturally. It's also good to change brake fluid to make sure your boiling point stays up where it's suppose to be. The more moisture, the lower the boiling point.
Indeed both of you are right. Regular brake fluid changes will reduce or eliminate the damage done by moisture, but it does pull in moisture from it's surroundings, even in a totally sealed system like a brake system or power steering system, transmission etc. Hence the reason for changing it out, even if it is clean looking every couple of years. Metal is porous as is plastic, just not on a visible level, but under a microscope, they are certainly porous and as such can pull moisture in from the environment. Which in turn corrodes metals and turns the fluid acidic and eats seals. Lesson 1 in proper vehicle maintenance. CHANGE THOSE FLUIDS! It will save you TONS of repairs, unexpected breakdowns and money down the road. I've seen the difference and it is HUGE! Change your fluids and you will remain trouble free and richer in the future. Fluids are DIRT CHEAP by comparison to new parts. No reason not to. Keep a log/history of your fluid changes and mileage and when they are due. There's even an app for that! Lol.
***** hydroscopic is the word your looking for:)
Hey Eric!!! 7 yrs old but very relevant. Excellent info. Definately like the boot on the piston trick. Thanks for sharing. Cheers from Motown!
You would think parts companies would make the pistons from stainless. Planned failure?
a lot of newer pistons are a phenolic material and do not have this issue
mikemanmade on a 80s fairmont ..
They have a lot of problems with them swelling.
Pistons are rarely made out of steel anymore so this issue is old. Even when this classic car was made many manufacturers were moving away from metal Pistons. In fact the Chrysler rebuild kit from Mopar includes a replacement piston, I can't be sure what materials are made out of but they appeared to be similar to Bakelite. I'm sure modern technology has better alternatives today
@@dondakota920 The pistons in the calipers in my 2010 Honda Civic are definitely steel. The old pistons were quite rusty in the part that's exposed, but the part that's covered by the rubber boot and cylinder was pretty much free of rust. Next time I replace the pistons I'm gonna cover the exposed parts with high temperature grease to give it a bit more rust protection.
Eric, I would like to add that many of the cheaper reman calipers do not have brand new pistons. I learned this the hard way when I installed a Cardone reman on my rsx-s. Upon bleeding the system, the caliper would not release, and had to be pried off with a crowbar. Upon removing the piston, it was pitted a hundred times worse than the one in your vid.
Also, a bad caliper can cause suspension related issues, especially steering wheel shaking. On my rsx, the original calipers were also pitted so bad, it would bind and then suddenly release, resulting in a violent popping sound when coming to a stop. Sometimes the calipers would bind randomly when driving, thus overheating the brakes to the point of boiling the fluid.
7:39: "Yeah, that part's kinda cool."
not if you got a finger there!
I really enjoyd watching this video. I heared other technicians recommend Permatex Lubricant because it doesn't damage seals and pin boots. Regards from Beirut-Lebanon
Proper tongue placement is crucial.
Especially as the groove is specifically there for that purpose :)
this sounds extremely dirty...tongue and groove
I appreciate the practical approach you have in this one. Just trying to get a failing part back to working order on the cheap.
$30 is nothing for a caliper when in the UK calipers even for small cars are at least £70 which equates to around $118
That of course is the price for a cheap rebuilt caliper on a common car, many cost much more. I once replaced four-wheel calipers on an early 80s GM luxury car, I think it was a Buick Riviera but I don't remember for sure and one of the bleeder screws broke off. A remanufactured caliper cost $270 back then and the core charge of $150. We ended up buying a used caliper from a junkyard for $30 but could not get the bleeding screw out of it either even using heat and the junkyard wouldn't take it back because we tampered with it and eventually broke the screw again. We ended up buying the rebuild caliper and the supplier contacted the manufacturer and agreed to buy the junkyard caliper from us for $50 which I assume was a bargain considering they were asking $150 core charge, so we made a little money from the junkyard caliper to make up for all the wasted time, but some cars or not so cheap to service. If you want a car that's cheap to service make sure to get something that's mass produced so aftermarket parts are plentiful as well as used parts.
Back before the internet, calipers were expensive. Parts in general were expensive. Nowadays you can buy a rotor for the cost that most places will charge you for turning your old one. Local parts stores stay in business for three reasons: people that need a part right now and can't wait to order it online, mechanics and garages that don't care what the price is because they're passing the cost onto the customer (Scotty Killmor) and people that don't have internet (old people and poor people.)
When rebuilding calipers, I always installed the dust boot and used compressed air to blow the dust boot up around the piston. Have to use low pressure air and watch your fingers though. Rebuilt many Ford calipers that way. One thing I despised was the plastic pistons that were used in Chrysler products. They would actually wedge into place and in some cases air wouldn't pop them out. I have chisled many plastic pistons out and took them out in pieces.
Air will not get stuck pistons out. Just use your brake pedal. Hydraulics RARELY fails to pump the piston out.
Replace the piston. The piston returns back because the vacuum. When you pres the brake pedal you create pressure, when you take the foot off you create suction.
You got it, that is why the rubber lines when they go bad suck together.
No this is not true, it's vibrations that work the Piston back into the caliper as you drive down the road. When a brake line gets plugged it's because the inside is deteriorating and a flap comes loose folds over and plugs the hose.
You have springs inside the master cylinder that pulls the fluid and pistons back, not vibrations lol.
@@hjonedmonds not true oh, I guess you have never rebuild a master cylinder or you would know when the brake pedal is released a valve is activated to allow the pressurized fluid to return to the reservoir. There is no suction involved there is simply pressure than pressure released and the vibrations from the rotor loosen the calipers hold on the brake pads.
Don Dakota I have rebuilt master cylinders for forty years and I have yet to rebuild one without a return spring that pushes the piston back which in turn pulls the fluid back.
Cool, thanks. Ill try and rebuild my sticking caliper tomorrow. Put new pads all around and got 1 front sticking.
this is a 79 domestic so you should break out your standard sockets 7/16 in. over a 11 mm and 5/8 in. over a 16 mm.
ʇɥƃᴉɹlɐ ʇou ɯᴉ cool name, but metric rules :D
Not necessarily, the SAE declared that New Automobile designs starting 1980 model year would be designed in Metric. Some manufacturers that began designing in 1979 or even in 1978 for 1980s models thought it wise to do any clean sheet designs in metric from the get go- IE GM X Cars (1979).Unable to verify the Ford Fairmont standard, I'd say it was metric because it came out in 1978 with a long projected model run (Until 1983) well into the Metric age.
Eric did not loose that seal in that bottle. He created an opportunity to see what was at the bottom of the bottle. Good mechanics create opportunities - that's how you tell them apart.