Hi Steven, I really appreciate all of your generous donations. The funny thing about even simple tooling like this is I never know how it will work until I actually try it on hot steel. So thanks for helping to keep the propane tank full. ✌
Hey Robert ,no questions about it. But it's a shame I need to experiment so much to come up with a fair-to-middling tool. But I'll keep at it. Thanks for all.
The easiest way I know is over an edge of the anvil but that edge needs to be fairly sharp and hammering needs to be spot on. I mostly use my fullering tool with flat dies - forge square first, then octagonal, then round. Let me experiment a bit and see if I can come up with a simpler way to get clean, sharp shoulders. Thanks.
Hi Adem, it's always nice to have you around so I'm glad you're back watching. Let's me test the French I studied in college and makes me want to study French again. Thanks.
What about clamping/welding 2 blocks together; then drilling, say a 3/8” hole through both blocks on centre. Then use a reamer that starts at 3/8” and expands to, say 1/2”. Unclamp or cut the weld, put in your guide pins/pipes. That way it would slowly swedge the heated piece to the desired diameter. In this case 3/8”.
Hi Randolph, your idea is interesting - to have the hole tapered. I can also see where this tool needs more changing and so I'll continue to experiment with it. As it stands, it works but it's not ideal. Thanks for watching and sharing.
You could really use that for a quick preform to making a ball in the center of the bar, just rotate it all the way around as you hammer. Also fairly sure Muir is pronounced "Myoor" or perhaps "Myeer" depending on dialect, because English.
Yeah, I thought about using this for ball ends but some adjusting (cutting out slot) needs to be done to accommodate the stock without pinching. And thanks for correcting my pronunciation.
that is why you shamfer the corners in a tennoning die do you dont pinch the part you are forging and you have to move it around as you forge it down :) thanks for sharing you give me alot of great ideas ...
next version is with a power drill and a jack hammer :-) PS i actually considered a jack hammer as a cheap power hammer at one point but it would have been to noisy as im residential like you . You should consider a fly press faster no hammering less noise .
Yeah, a jack hammer would get me kicked out of the building for sure. I would love a fly press but my space issue or lack thereof makes it tough. I need to get my workshop back on ground level! I've thought about how I might use a simple car jack, how it could be altered to work as a simple, small press. Probably an idiotic idea but you never know... Thanks.
Yes, I'm learning that the stubborn way. Since I couldn't add material I thought I'd slowly progress with removing the edges and see. Now I see... Edges need to be eased back way more as well as I should shorten this tool given I'm hand hammering. Thanks for sure.
Glen: on the first tool you showed the swaget tool the handle sticking out to one side is binding so you are loosing some of you hammer force I think you will be better off with some type of a spring fuller set up???? But never know till you try!!! Be well and be safe.............👍👍👍🪒🪒
Hey bill, you're probably right. But I also really need to work back the edges more on this tool. And given that it's used via hand hammering, it needs to be shorter in my opinion. I've got a ways to go my friend! Hope you get your tong soon. Thanks.
Thanks!
Hi Ron, Your big donation is really appreciated. I think I've got some good ideas for upcoming videos so stay tuned. Thanks. 😬
Mad blacksmith at it again, always experimenting and developing new techniques!🤣 Keep at it Glen, great work!👍
Hey Paul, it works but it's not ideal. More changes are needed. Thanks.
I'm jealous; your experiments are working out substantially better than mine!
I know how you feel Bryson
I've got you completely fooled! This tool needs work still. Live and learn... Thanks my friend.
And I know how you both feel multiplied by ten! Thanks for watching.
Hey, Glen! I love how your mind works and finds additional uses for all of your tooling!! Keep those fires burning, this will help! 😉👍🏻💪⚒
Hi Steven, I really appreciate all of your generous donations. The funny thing about even simple tooling like this is I never know how it will work until I actually try it on hot steel. So thanks for helping to keep the propane tank full. ✌
Experimentation is learning, keep up the good work. Thanks for sharing. 👍🔥⚒
Hey Robert ,no questions about it. But it's a shame I need to experiment so much to come up with a fair-to-middling tool. But I'll keep at it. Thanks for all.
Enjoy watching do your magic Glen!
Hey robert, this is a magic trick where the magician has forgotten the secret! Tool works but needs some adjusting. Thanks.
Nice tool development, take care Glen.
I still need to take this in another direction. Let's see what's next... Thanks my friend.
I like watching you experiment. Gives me ideas...
Hey Jon, This is still not ideal. I need to make further changes. Let's see... Thanks.
@@gstongs if anyone can figure it out it’s you!!
Smart idea having that welded on the sides!👍
Hi Steve, That part of it, the pins, is a good idea. But this tool needs more adjusting to make it work better. Let's see... Thanks.
@@gstongs very good.
Interesting idea Glen! Any ideas on how to make a quick 5/16 tenon without a monkey tool?
The easiest way I know is over an edge of the anvil but that edge needs to be fairly sharp and hammering needs to be spot on. I mostly use my fullering tool with flat dies - forge square first, then octagonal, then round. Let me experiment a bit and see if I can come up with a simpler way to get clean, sharp shoulders. Thanks.
Salut glen ça faisais longtemps que j'étais plus sur UA-cam ça fait plaisir de pouvoir regarder quelques vidéos de forge.
Hi Adem, it's always nice to have you around so I'm glad you're back watching. Let's me test the French I studied in college and makes me want to study French again. Thanks.
Glen, I like the reference pin idea. Howdy from Sequim!
The pin part of this works. Other aspects need altering. Needless to say, I learn at a slow, stubborn pace. Thanks and hi from Taipei my friend.
What about clamping/welding 2 blocks together; then drilling, say a 3/8” hole through both blocks on centre. Then use a reamer that starts at 3/8” and expands to, say 1/2”. Unclamp or cut the weld, put in your guide pins/pipes. That way it would slowly swedge the heated piece to the desired diameter. In this case 3/8”.
Hi Randolph, your idea is interesting - to have the hole tapered. I can also see where this tool needs more changing and so I'll continue to experiment with it. As it stands, it works but it's not ideal. Thanks for watching and sharing.
Very good modification!
It works better but still not ideal. I'll keep on this. Thanks.
Прикольный эксперимент.
Thanks for watching.
You could really use that for a quick preform to making a ball in the center of the bar, just rotate it all the way around as you hammer.
Also fairly sure Muir is pronounced "Myoor" or perhaps "Myeer" depending on dialect, because English.
Yeah, I thought about using this for ball ends but some adjusting (cutting out slot) needs to be done to accommodate the stock without pinching. And thanks for correcting my pronunciation.
that is why you shamfer the corners in a tennoning die do you dont pinch the part you are forging and you have to move it around as you forge it down :) thanks for sharing you give me alot of great ideas ...
Yeah, and I need to work back those edges even more. This tool works OK but not as it should. More to come... Thanks for watching and sharing.
next version is with a power drill and a jack hammer :-) PS i actually considered a jack hammer as a cheap power hammer at one point but it would have been to noisy as im residential like you . You should consider a fly press faster no hammering less noise .
Yeah, a jack hammer would get me kicked out of the building for sure. I would love a fly press but my space issue or lack thereof makes it tough. I need to get my workshop back on ground level! I've thought about how I might use a simple car jack, how it could be altered to work as a simple, small press. Probably an idiotic idea but you never know... Thanks.
Nice going mate.
I appreciate your support but this one needs further tinkering. Thanks my friend.
You can completely remove the edges on the tenoning tool. You want the bottom of the trough to do all the work anyways 🍻
Yes, I'm learning that the stubborn way. Since I couldn't add material I thought I'd slowly progress with removing the edges and see. Now I see... Edges need to be eased back way more as well as I should shorten this tool given I'm hand hammering. Thanks for sure.
good job mate. send you some money for some more Spray Lube.
Your generosity will buy spray lube, propane & a cup of coffee to keep my brain awake! Thanks so much.
Glen: on the first tool you showed the swaget tool the handle sticking out to one side is binding so you are loosing some of you hammer force I think you will be better off with some type of a spring fuller set up???? But never know till you try!!! Be well and be safe.............👍👍👍🪒🪒
Hey bill, you're probably right. But I also really need to work back the edges more on this tool. And given that it's used via hand hammering, it needs to be shorter in my opinion. I've got a ways to go my friend! Hope you get your tong soon. Thanks.