My user mistake - I accidenly switched from shatter angle to shutter speed so when I set the framerate from 30 to 60 the speed stayed at 1/60 instead of 180°. Not great for action shots.
At least you admit you're not a filmmaker. Tons of channels on here with people saying what's good or not and yet we've never seen one thing they've created that would justify listening to them. Good job. If I listened to the influencers I'd be buying this but not now. Nobody has time for trying to fix problems on the go.
You can replace the battery grip with a smallrig or tilta power base which is powered by vlock batteries if you ever need an alternative to buying more rs3 battery grips
Thanks a ton for testing the LiDAR with a lens without hard stops! Been looking for this for days. Awesome you found a way around it. Kinda sucks that DJI so rarely updates and fix these issues... Same thing with the two focus motors. I don't get why they can't spot these things before dropping the product or at least just fix it when the customers tell them about it.
How well does LiDAR active tracking work in low light? at what max distance? and in which scenarios will the active tracking abort completely or hold and re-engage. I have yet find a robust auto-tracking system that works in less-ideal light and tolerates the tracked subject getting temporarily obscured.
My thoughts are - that's a lot of trouble and expense to go to, just to make up for the shortcomings of the BM Pocket 6K. You should definitely look at Sony or Canon who have both mastered autofocus. You can keep the 6K Pocket and just dump the lidar and pull focus manually but that's not ideal for run and gun. Ideally you want the plane of the sensor in the LIDAR to line up with the plane of the camera sensor but even that won't help with parallax error with different focal lengths. The LIDAR needs to be smart enough to have eye tracking and face detection etc.
It does have face tracking and it works excellently when it works properly (It doesn't always work properly). I used both the Lidar and a G Master AF on a shoot the last couple days and I prefer the Lidar (in my personal, professional opinion).
@@tomcattermole1844 A strange comment - the LIDAR doesn't always work properly yet you prefer to Sony's autofocus which is worlds ahead, especially on their more modern lenses like the 70-200 f2.8 GM mkII and 24-70 f2.8 GM mkII. The tracking on these lenses from any camera post FX6 is simply amazing. To be fair I've not used the LIDAR but there is no way it can be as accurate as phase detect built into the actual sensor of the camera. For a start you'd have to calibrate it for every lens and you're limited to primes and parfocal zooms. Am I missing something?
@mondotv4216 I think it's strange that your personal preference for what equipment you would like to use is what everyone should use. GMasters are very far from being cheap and the cost of a Lidar scanner pays for itself with the savings of a middle of the road cine prime lenses. Absolutely, it makes the process of changing lenses a little harder but depending on the shoot that doesn't matter a whole lot. Plus, once you get there hang of it it can be done in under 2 mins as a one man team without any kind of special rigging (rails etc). Plus plus, you can use lenses that were never intended to have AF capabilities, and in a market where 'perfect' lenses are becoming affordable, stylistic lenses are only going to become more popular. Let me reiterate, I only replied in the first place because you were so quick to dismiss a technology you haven't even tried out meaning everything you said was based on assumptions. Due to the Lidar being limited by the speed of the focus ring, it creates a really nice 'handmade' feel to the focus, whereas GMasters feel a bit artificial. Even then, I might be wrong for not knowing all the settings but the difference is I've used GMasters multiple times before and while I do think they work great in some situations (photo especially) I'm just not entirely in love with the look and feel. I'm anti-autofocus in general and the LIDAR is the first product that has made think about using AF realistically on a shoot. Maybe your idea of a setup doesn't line up with mine exactly but that doesn't mean it's totally wrong and worth dismissing. I think the best thing to do if you're going to have an opinion on something (and we don't have to have an opinion on everything) is to actually try out the thing. (Again, in my personal, professional opinion.)
Isn't it just easier to forget about zoom motor? And just grab that by hand when needed. No one really uses zoom while recording. The autofocus is far more crucial. Specially when working professionally. You cannot afford to miss focus at all.
Great review, thank you! I'm about to buy this unit for my Sony A7RV and don't need the focus features and possibly only need remote manual zoom. Sony A7RV has stabilization and extremely accurate AI based focus system for 61MP full frame sensor. Is the the LiDAR range finder only used to manage focus? Is it required for subject tracking? If LiDAR not required, is subject track part of the default DJI RS3 Pro package?
If you get the Pro package that includes the RavenEye it does have Active Track. It's not exactly the same as the LiDAR tracking so you may want to research it first.
@@ElevatedSystems After some research it appears the RavenEye is just a wireless image transmitter not involved in the actual tracking process (Active Track). LiDAR is for depth data so only helps with focus and/or automatic zoom. From what I can tell "ActiveTrack" is default part of the RS3 Pro package.
I'm glad I didn't order the combo version, the extras don't sound too important. LiDAR also seems a bit of a gimick if your camera and lens already has autofocus!
You connect connect the RS Lidar Rangefinder to the focus motor. You then loose the video feed on the gimbal and only have focus tracking in the center, but that's pretty much the only way, how you can run lidar + zoom control. I haven't tried using the older motor for the zoom, so that's something I probably should give a go. And yes, generally, the 2nd motor, lidar AF, the rangefinder and DJI transmission are mutually exclusive, meaning you are only meant to mount one of them at any given time. This isn't 100% clear from the product description, but there is just not enough I/O on the DJI Ronin RS3 Pro. One would wish, that DJI had added another motor port, when they revised the gimbal from the RS2 to the RS3 Pro, but unfortunately not.
Which motorized revolving circular base (wooden finish) is being used to display the RS3 Pro at 1:36 in this video ? Please leave a link to it if possible.
Hello, I don't have any luck making this work with my rs3 (with the latest 2022 motor). My focus wheel won't even turn green. Could you please let me know how you managed to get the Wheel working with rs3 ?
There is a better way to use the RS 3 Pro in your studio. I have a very cool way to use the RS 3 Pro in a studio for cool shots. There is also a third-party battery accessory that gives the RS3 pro more juice. "Michael Tobin's (How To Setup The DJI LiDAR Range Finder RS (& Troubleshoot)" he mounted the lidar below BM camera and a bigger lens. Also, "Bestboy Adam's (DJI RS3 PRO - Review - MORE than just a GIMBAL + LIDAR Range Finder + DJI Transmission.)" on the RS 3pro will make you smile, knowing that it's not just toy it can be anything you want it to be.
I have a slider but it takes forever to set up shots, and I take 80 to 100 shots per video. I recently solved the problem with an iPhone 15 Pro Max and an Insta360 Flow for B-Roll. It seems like a downgrade but the results are perfect.
@@ElevatedSystems wow that is quiet a downgrade in price from rs3! I guess rs3 is not really meant for product video so might have been an overkill for you. Did you end up returning it back?
This is the exact video I've been looking for. I need to duplicate this arrangement as cheaply as possible using used gear and older models if possible. Can you help me out and suggest away! I don't believe I need a raven eye and I probably need just one DJI lidar. I was even told that maybe I could even use one gimbal for two separate camera and lidar setups I don't know how true that is though. Essentially all I'm trying to do is create a podcast using the Black magic pockets and give it autofocus. I've never used the Black magic cameras yet so I'm not sure if getting autofocus for a podcast is worth it or not either maybe you can weigh in on that.
Fantastic video. Do you happen to know if the gimbal will charge while in use? I know this wouldn’t be practical in most situations but could come in use on occasion?
The real problem is the use of the BMPCC. Switch to fx30 and all your weight, space and focus problems are gone. Nice review though. But yes, the Pocket is just too bulky even though its a "pocket".
DJI gear is what you make of it. Since I use mine for work I have 4 different battery grips in my kit just to be safe, and I use the DZO Cyber 35 cine glass which is designed to auto calibrate with the Lidar. I am very curious to know what in your config is draining so much battery, I probably swap mine out every 4ish hours of set time, but I'm not shooting constantly through that period. Still on a standard commercial day I might use 2 battery grips at most with the Lidar, without it I can easily go most if not all of a standard shooting day on one handle. I do shoot on a c70 though so the rear mounted battery does help keep the front wieght in check.
I learned a lot from your video, thank yo so much. But you did something like the 'Smoke Free World Association' put affiliate links to sell Marlboro. :) (I'm talking about the video description part)
Honestly I think it is understandable for such an external LiDAR focus device to be bad or not aiming at the same height in close distances. I guess this is the kind of problem which you definitely find disturbing, but cannot blame on DJI.
They can simply add a vertical distance from sensor along with the horizontal distance setting they already have to compensate for the issue. The bigger issue was with the auto tracking. With a 50mm lense a subject 2m away was cut if by the top of the frame at eye level.
@@ElevatedSystems there is a third-party battery system from YC onion that lets you use Sony NPF batteries. It's originally for the RS2 but it's compatible with the RS3 pro. I bought and it works. Also I have a video of how to rig your gimble for a studio.
Thank you for your review. For the Sigma 18-35mm did you only have to calibrate in one focal length, or did you calibrate e.g. 3 focal lengths 18, 25 and 35mm?
The Sigma isn't parfocal so you could do that for best results, but I just calibrated at 25mm and only adjusted the focal length slightly while shooting if needed. My plan was to get a set of DZOFilm Pictor Zoom lenses if the RS3 worked.
@@ElevatedSystems Thank you very much. Then I would have to save, for example, the 18-35 as 3 lenses in different focal lengths. The hard stop is not ideal either. I have 2 bmpcc6k and 2 18-35s. Thus subobtimal.
Does anyone find when you use the LIDAR, your Ronin battery is drained? It doesn't last for long while using the Lidar or maybe I'm setting up correctly.
The battery didn't survive? Are you sure the gimbal was balanced perfectly? The balance point also changes when you zoom the sigma 18-35. I zoom to 24mm then balance. I've noticed that on my gimbal (not DJI) if it's not balanced perfectly then it eats the battery rapidly.
It was ballenced and calibrated at 35mm which is where the focal length stayed the whole time. Only one focus motor was connected but the LiDAR and now the Raveneye use a lot of power.
Thanks for the helpful review. I’m planning to buy canon r6 mk2. But when I saw the BMCP 6k pro, I’ll save a lot of cash. I won’t need a new lens since I have an EF sigma 12-24, also no extra ND filters will be needed. Moreover, DaVinci resolve will be free. My only concern is the absence of built-in stabilization. However, I’ll use it to shoot real estate so I won’t be needing neither stabilization nor continuous focus. Would you agree with me? Of course I’ll need the same gimbal you have. I’d appreciate your input. Many thanks!
R6m2 + Canon’s EF-RF adapter. You’ll have a WAY more versatile camera for what you are shooting, and everything else should you decide to use it elsewhere.
@@Triptisim I missed a crucial point regarding BMPCC 6k, it has a crop factor 1.56, the crop increases once you shoot below 6K, so I’m hesitant now. Nevertheless, I’d safe at least 4,000€ if I go with BMP. Btw, I won’t need auto-focus since I’ll shooting interior and exteriors (real estate).
not sure I understand. you dont need stabilization but your concerned about lack of in body stabilization? are you shooting tripod only or going to be doing handheld work as well?
I am not an expert on any of this but my opinion is that this gimbal system just isn't compatible with your camera, and if it was me I'd be packing it up for return. I definitely want to see a follow-up to this video. BTW, the highlight of this video for me was when your son realized he was being filmed at smiled at you. It brought back memories of when my son was around your boy's age.
It's more the matter of expectations. 2nd focus motor, dji rangefinder rs, dji raveneye and dji transmission are mutually exclusive. You're only meant to mount one of them at any given time.
Majority of what you are complaining about, is 100% user error. Buddy, I run way more power than you, and almost hitting the weight limit, and I can run this gimbal all day and more, and have done so on numerous shoots. You simply did not balance the gimbal properly. This is a skill that takes a lot of time to understand, no one can just pick this equipment up and use it. There is a high learning curve. Buying a proper rod mount is necessary. The one that comes with it is not really supposed to be used for that gear (only for smaller cameras). Get a proper base plate with dual 15mm rod support. You did not calibrate the LiDAR, like not even close. Read the directions. You need to face a wall, calibrate distances, then the focus lens calibration. Also, you are supposed to use the DJI gear ring, that has a special design for the start and stop where it latches onto itself. Using a grip gear is not intended to be used for this, otherwise, you have to manually set endpoints for it (duh). Do not grab the gear ring to make the motor hard stop, that adds wear. The LiDAR unit has a distance limit for far and close range, read the manual. Your issues with framing are becasue of the position of the sensor, this is a problem with the LiDAR support that only works for certain builds. You'll need to 3d print or find another adapter to get the LiDAR put in a different place. I've seen people make adapters that have the LiDAR sit right below or on top of the lens that fixes the problem you are having. FYI, you are using the old motors. The new motors are the focus motor pros. That is 50% your error, and 50% DJI not communicating that the new focus motors are what anyone should be using. DJI's old focus motor solution was terrible, and it got completely redesigned from scratch about a year ago. They are industry standard these days if you are not on arri cforce. The focus motor pros are not as good as the tilta nucleus Ms, but Smallrig's magicFIZ are better than nucleus M. Though no support for the DJI LiDAR unit, yet. The focus motor wheel control you bought is pretty old, and an afterthought by DJI. I do not recommend it. Those people in the forums are 100% wrong and have no clue what they are talking about. Like how do they think we have a triple motor setup works with a cine lens and the DJI highbright controller? lmfao. Dude you gotta do better research, and maybe talk to DJI more. These products are prosumer, and I would never recommend anyone just starting out to use this equipment. These sort of hardware choices are based on factors of lack-of, or limitations while filming and producing. DJI sucks at marketing their products properly like they are for the general public. They are not. They are good for beginners that have a good core understanding in film, drones, ect. Otherwise, it's a massive waste of money to get into these prosumer products that are made to help guide you to commercial hardware. I don't really blame you, because DJI is doing this to tons of creators and youtube marketing people. I'm not sure what they expect from people because not everyone is a working filmographer or UAV pilot, lol. Very few people are using their hardware just as a hobby or for fun. None of their products are as beginner friendly as they are claiming them to be. Which is why you find so many open box brand new DJI products on the third party market. I can't tell you how many amazing deals I've gotten because the market is full of people buying into the DJI ads, buying their product, and then having no clue how to use the product. Thanks DJI, I guess? lol. Anyways,
I appreciate the extensive feedback, however, you failed to check the date of this video. All the DJI stuff you say I should have used didn't exist back then. The gear I used was the latest gear DJI had at the time. The focus pro motor for example wasn't released until about a year after this video was published. It's entirely possible things have significantly improved in the past 19 months however it was bad enough back then that I returned the entire system. Thank you for confirming that this is not a system for beginners, that ended up being the point of the video.
My user mistake - I accidenly switched from shatter angle to shutter speed so when I set the framerate from 30 to 60 the speed stayed at 1/60 instead of 180°. Not great for action shots.
KNEW IT, was wondering why there was so much light bleed on the face-guard rails(is that what theyre called?)
not bad 🎥🎥🎥 Im sure your arms where stronger that week
Did you adjust the deadband? This will make your movements significantly smoother, especially the close up stuff you are doing in the studio.
At least you admit you're not a filmmaker. Tons of channels on here with people saying what's good or not and yet we've never seen one thing they've created that would justify listening to them. Good job. If I listened to the influencers I'd be buying this but not now. Nobody has time for trying to fix problems on the go.
You can replace the battery grip with a smallrig or tilta power base which is powered by vlock batteries if you ever need an alternative to buying more rs3 battery grips
Thanks a ton for testing the LiDAR with a lens without hard stops! Been looking for this for days. Awesome you found a way around it. Kinda sucks that DJI so rarely updates and fix these issues... Same thing with the two focus motors. I don't get why they can't spot these things before dropping the product or at least just fix it when the customers tell them about it.
How well does LiDAR active tracking work in low light? at what max distance? and in which scenarios will the active tracking abort completely or hold and re-engage. I have yet find a robust auto-tracking system that works in less-ideal light and tolerates the tracked subject getting temporarily obscured.
My thoughts are - that's a lot of trouble and expense to go to, just to make up for the shortcomings of the BM Pocket 6K. You should definitely look at Sony or Canon who have both mastered autofocus. You can keep the 6K Pocket and just dump the lidar and pull focus manually but that's not ideal for run and gun. Ideally you want the plane of the sensor in the LIDAR to line up with the plane of the camera sensor but even that won't help with parallax error with different focal lengths. The LIDAR needs to be smart enough to have eye tracking and face detection etc.
It does have face tracking and it works excellently when it works properly (It doesn't always work properly). I used both the Lidar and a G Master AF on a shoot the last couple days and I prefer the Lidar (in my personal, professional opinion).
@@tomcattermole1844 A strange comment - the LIDAR doesn't always work properly yet you prefer to Sony's autofocus which is worlds ahead, especially on their more modern lenses like the 70-200 f2.8 GM mkII and 24-70 f2.8 GM mkII. The tracking on these lenses from any camera post FX6 is simply amazing. To be fair I've not used the LIDAR but there is no way it can be as accurate as phase detect built into the actual sensor of the camera. For a start you'd have to calibrate it for every lens and you're limited to primes and parfocal zooms. Am I missing something?
@mondotv4216 I think it's strange that your personal preference for what equipment you would like to use is what everyone should use. GMasters are very far from being cheap and the cost of a Lidar scanner pays for itself with the savings of a middle of the road cine prime lenses. Absolutely, it makes the process of changing lenses a little harder but depending on the shoot that doesn't matter a whole lot. Plus, once you get there hang of it it can be done in under 2 mins as a one man team without any kind of special rigging (rails etc). Plus plus, you can use lenses that were never intended to have AF capabilities, and in a market where 'perfect' lenses are becoming affordable, stylistic lenses are only going to become more popular.
Let me reiterate, I only replied in the first place because you were so quick to dismiss a technology you haven't even tried out meaning everything you said was based on assumptions. Due to the Lidar being limited by the speed of the focus ring, it creates a really nice 'handmade' feel to the focus, whereas GMasters feel a bit artificial. Even then, I might be wrong for not knowing all the settings but the difference is I've used GMasters multiple times before and while I do think they work great in some situations (photo especially) I'm just not entirely in love with the look and feel.
I'm anti-autofocus in general and the LIDAR is the first product that has made think about using AF realistically on a shoot. Maybe your idea of a setup doesn't line up with mine exactly but that doesn't mean it's totally wrong and worth dismissing. I think the best thing to do if you're going to have an opinion on something (and we don't have to have an opinion on everything) is to actually try out the thing. (Again, in my personal, professional opinion.)
That didn't look at all "Amature" to me Bro. Next career ESPN?
Isn't it just easier to forget about zoom motor? And just grab that by hand when needed.
No one really uses zoom while recording.
The autofocus is far more crucial.
Specially when working professionally. You cannot afford to miss focus at all.
Touching the lens would introduce micro jitter. Just wouldn’t zoom at all.
Great review, thank you! I'm about to buy this unit for my Sony A7RV and don't need the focus features and possibly only need remote manual zoom. Sony A7RV has stabilization and extremely accurate AI based focus system for 61MP full frame sensor. Is the the LiDAR range finder only used to manage focus? Is it required for subject tracking? If LiDAR not required, is subject track part of the default DJI RS3 Pro package?
If you get the Pro package that includes the RavenEye it does have Active Track. It's not exactly the same as the LiDAR tracking so you may want to research it first.
@@ElevatedSystems After some research it appears the RavenEye is just a wireless image transmitter not involved in the actual tracking process (Active Track). LiDAR is for depth data so only helps with focus and/or automatic zoom. From what I can tell "ActiveTrack" is default part of the RS3 Pro package.
Does gimbal need to be balanced before camera is attached? The camera symbol in menu is red/ orange.. didn’t know what to do? Ty
I'm glad I didn't order the combo version, the extras don't sound too important. LiDAR also seems a bit of a gimick if your camera and lens already has autofocus!
You connect connect the RS Lidar Rangefinder to the focus motor. You then loose the video feed on the gimbal and only have focus tracking in the center, but that's pretty much the only way, how you can run lidar + zoom control. I haven't tried using the older motor for the zoom, so that's something I probably should give a go.
And yes, generally, the 2nd motor, lidar AF, the rangefinder and DJI transmission are mutually exclusive, meaning you are only meant to mount one of them at any given time. This isn't 100% clear from the product description, but there is just not enough I/O on the DJI Ronin RS3 Pro. One would wish, that DJI had added another motor port, when they revised the gimbal from the RS2 to the RS3 Pro, but unfortunately not.
Which motorized revolving circular base (wooden finish) is being used to display the RS3 Pro at 1:36 in this video ? Please leave a link to it if possible.
Noticed the great strap you put on the motor rod and lens. I used thick rubber bands there 😆.
It was informative and you are a very sympathetic guy. i haveI just subscribed. 😁
Great detailed video. Had lots of issues with the Lidar Callibrating and connecting to the RS3 pro though.
How do you get the second dial (i bought that exact dial too)
to work the focus motor and the daily on the gimbal to work the pan???
You have a link for that printed SSD holder?
All I care is to use the motor and wheel for zooming. Don’t need LiDAR or second motor. Will that work just fine with the wheel on the handle?
Yes, a single motor works fine and can be controlled by the wheel.
Is it possible to slow down the focus speed?
hi - My Sony AX700 is 9" long. Will it fit on the RS3 Pro? thank you.
Hello, I don't have any luck making this work with my rs3 (with the latest 2022 motor). My focus wheel won't even turn green. Could you please let me know how you managed to get the Wheel working with rs3 ?
There is a better way to use the RS 3 Pro in your studio. I have a very cool way to use the RS 3 Pro in a studio for cool shots. There is also a third-party battery accessory that gives the RS3 pro more juice. "Michael Tobin's (How To Setup The DJI LiDAR Range Finder RS (& Troubleshoot)" he mounted the lidar below BM camera and a bigger lens. Also, "Bestboy Adam's (DJI RS3 PRO - Review - MORE than just a GIMBAL + LIDAR Range Finder + DJI Transmission.)" on the RS 3pro will make you smile, knowing that it's not just toy it can be anything you want it to be.
Curious why you didn't go with edelkrone's slider and headplus to do these smooth motions?
I have a slider but it takes forever to set up shots, and I take 80 to 100 shots per video. I recently solved the problem with an iPhone 15 Pro Max and an Insta360 Flow for B-Roll. It seems like a downgrade but the results are perfect.
@@ElevatedSystems wow that is quiet a downgrade in price from rs3! I guess rs3 is not really meant for product video so might have been an overkill for you. Did you end up returning it back?
This is the exact video I've been looking for. I need to duplicate this arrangement as cheaply as possible using used gear and older models if possible. Can you help me out and suggest away!
I don't believe I need a raven eye and I probably need just one DJI lidar. I was even told that maybe I could even use one gimbal for two separate camera and lidar setups I don't know how true that is though. Essentially all I'm trying to do is create a podcast using the Black magic pockets and give it autofocus. I've never used the Black magic cameras yet so I'm not sure if getting autofocus for a podcast is worth it or not either maybe you can weigh in on that.
Fantastic video. Do you happen to know if the gimbal will charge while in use? I know this wouldn’t be practical in most situations but could come in use on occasion?
It does, I have a 100W portable battery but the discharge rate is about double the charge rate so it only gives you a little more time.
The real problem is the use of the BMPCC. Switch to fx30 and all your weight, space and focus problems are gone. Nice review though. But yes, the Pocket is just too bulky even though its a "pocket".
there are plenty of issues with the fx30, including the autofocus.
DJI gear is what you make of it. Since I use mine for work I have 4 different battery grips in my kit just to be safe, and I use the DZO Cyber 35 cine glass which is designed to auto calibrate with the Lidar. I am very curious to know what in your config is draining so much battery, I probably swap mine out every 4ish hours of set time, but I'm not shooting constantly through that period. Still on a standard commercial day I might use 2 battery grips at most with the Lidar, without it I can easily go most if not all of a standard shooting day on one handle. I do shoot on a c70 though so the rear mounted battery does help keep the front wieght in check.
I noticed that lidar does suck battery life pretty quick. Battery life seems to drop from 12 to 2 hours.
@@manuelaguilar806012 hours to 2 is comical!!!
I learned a lot from your video, thank yo so much. But you did something like the 'Smoke Free World Association' put affiliate links to sell Marlboro. :) (I'm talking about the video description part)
Honestly I think it is understandable for such an external LiDAR focus device to be bad or not aiming at the same height in close distances. I guess this is the kind of problem which you definitely find disturbing, but cannot blame on DJI.
They can simply add a vertical distance from sensor along with the horizontal distance setting they already have to compensate for the issue. The bigger issue was with the auto tracking. With a 50mm lense a subject 2m away was cut if by the top of the frame at eye level.
Which camera/lens did you use to shoot this video ?
a battery grip under your camera will give you enough elevation to mount the lidar below.
that will add a lot of weight and reduce the gimbal battery life to probably under an hour.
@@ElevatedSystems there is a third-party battery system from YC onion that lets you use Sony NPF batteries. It's originally for the RS2 but it's compatible with the RS3 pro. I bought and it works. Also I have a video of how to rig your gimble for a studio.
Peace be with you😌 Thanks for this👍
Great vid thanks. Agreed I get 60-90 mins on that battery. 12 bat life is a myth lol😊
Thank you for your review. For the Sigma 18-35mm did you only have to calibrate in one focal length, or did you calibrate e.g. 3 focal lengths 18, 25 and 35mm?
The Sigma isn't parfocal so you could do that for best results, but I just calibrated at 25mm and only adjusted the focal length slightly while shooting if needed. My plan was to get a set of DZOFilm Pictor Zoom lenses if the RS3 worked.
@@ElevatedSystems Thank you very much.
Then I would have to save, for example, the 18-35 as 3 lenses in different focal lengths.
The hard stop is not ideal either.
I have 2 bmpcc6k and 2 18-35s. Thus subobtimal.
Does anyone find when you use the LIDAR, your Ronin battery is drained? It doesn't last for long while using the Lidar or maybe I'm setting up correctly.
Yep I get about an hour, 90 mins if lucky.
Your non sponsored segment lasted as long as a sponsored segment would lol
So underrated. Need more views!
The battery didn't survive? Are you sure the gimbal was balanced perfectly? The balance point also changes when you zoom the sigma 18-35. I zoom to 24mm then balance. I've noticed that on my gimbal (not DJI) if it's not balanced perfectly then it eats the battery rapidly.
It was ballenced and calibrated at 35mm which is where the focal length stayed the whole time. Only one focus motor was connected but the LiDAR and now the Raveneye use a lot of power.
Thank you so much for your very interesting video!!!
damn dude thanks for all this great info! my question was answered: can't daisy chain 2 focus motors
What gear did you end up keeping?
None of it. I ended up returning it all.
no Lidar system can work with AF Foto lenses ! But nice Video !
Thanks for the helpful review. I’m planning to buy canon r6 mk2. But when I saw the BMCP 6k pro, I’ll save a lot of cash. I won’t need a new lens since I have an EF sigma 12-24, also no extra ND filters will be needed. Moreover, DaVinci resolve will be free. My only concern is the absence of built-in stabilization. However, I’ll use it to shoot real estate so I won’t be needing neither stabilization nor continuous focus. Would you agree with me? Of course I’ll need the same gimbal you have. I’d appreciate your input. Many thanks!
R6m2 + Canon’s EF-RF adapter. You’ll have a WAY more versatile camera for what you are shooting, and everything else should you decide to use it elsewhere.
@@Triptisim I missed a crucial point regarding BMPCC 6k, it has a crop factor 1.56, the crop increases once you shoot below 6K, so I’m hesitant now. Nevertheless, I’d safe at least 4,000€ if I go with BMP. Btw, I won’t need auto-focus since I’ll shooting interior and exteriors (real estate).
@@lensalucia The Pocket now has stabilization that you activate in Resolve and it works like a dream, just shoot in 6k to compensate for the cropping.
not sure I understand. you dont need stabilization but your concerned about lack of in body stabilization? are you shooting tripod only or going to be doing handheld work as well?
@@RichardTurton thank you! 👍
The LIDAR drains the battery quickly...
did you send the DJI RS3 Pro back?
I did, it just didn't meet my needs.
Awesome video!
something wrong w/ your battery; mine lasted all day w/ a rigged out a7siii.
I am not an expert on any of this but my opinion is that this gimbal system just isn't compatible with your camera, and if it was me I'd be packing it up for return. I definitely want to see a follow-up to this video.
BTW, the highlight of this video for me was when your son realized he was being filmed at smiled at you. It brought back memories of when my son was around your boy's age.
The Blackmagic 6K Pro is definitely on the RS3 Pro compatibility list.
It's more the matter of expectations. 2nd focus motor, dji rangefinder rs, dji raveneye and dji transmission are mutually exclusive. You're only meant to mount one of them at any given time.
You made a good pitch to like and subscribe so I agreed with you and did it
The music was overkill for the video
Good video. But there is a problem with the title. It should be "What I wish I HAD KNOWN...". Common error on youtube.
I'll tell you a secret. ChatGPT has been writing my titles for a couple months now. 🤷♂️
Wow 2hr life battery? 💀 that’s bad bad
nice
Majority of what you are complaining about, is 100% user error.
Buddy, I run way more power than you, and almost hitting the weight limit, and I can run this gimbal all day and more, and have done so on numerous shoots. You simply did not balance the gimbal properly. This is a skill that takes a lot of time to understand, no one can just pick this equipment up and use it. There is a high learning curve.
Buying a proper rod mount is necessary. The one that comes with it is not really supposed to be used for that gear (only for smaller cameras). Get a proper base plate with dual 15mm rod support.
You did not calibrate the LiDAR, like not even close. Read the directions. You need to face a wall, calibrate distances, then the focus lens calibration.
Also, you are supposed to use the DJI gear ring, that has a special design for the start and stop where it latches onto itself. Using a grip gear is not intended to be used for this, otherwise, you have to manually set endpoints for it (duh).
Do not grab the gear ring to make the motor hard stop, that adds wear.
The LiDAR unit has a distance limit for far and close range, read the manual.
Your issues with framing are becasue of the position of the sensor, this is a problem with the LiDAR support that only works for certain builds. You'll need to 3d print or find another adapter to get the LiDAR put in a different place. I've seen people make adapters that have the LiDAR sit right below or on top of the lens that fixes the problem you are having.
FYI, you are using the old motors. The new motors are the focus motor pros. That is 50% your error, and 50% DJI not communicating that the new focus motors are what anyone should be using. DJI's old focus motor solution was terrible, and it got completely redesigned from scratch about a year ago. They are industry standard these days if you are not on arri cforce. The focus motor pros are not as good as the tilta nucleus Ms, but Smallrig's magicFIZ are better than nucleus M. Though no support for the DJI LiDAR unit, yet.
The focus motor wheel control you bought is pretty old, and an afterthought by DJI. I do not recommend it.
Those people in the forums are 100% wrong and have no clue what they are talking about.
Like how do they think we have a triple motor setup works with a cine lens and the DJI highbright controller? lmfao.
Dude you gotta do better research, and maybe talk to DJI more. These products are prosumer, and I would never recommend anyone just starting out to use this equipment. These sort of hardware choices are based on factors of lack-of, or limitations while filming and producing. DJI sucks at marketing their products properly like they are for the general public. They are not. They are good for beginners that have a good core understanding in film, drones, ect. Otherwise, it's a massive waste of money to get into these prosumer products that are made to help guide you to commercial hardware.
I don't really blame you, because DJI is doing this to tons of creators and youtube marketing people. I'm not sure what they expect from people because not everyone is a working filmographer or UAV pilot, lol. Very few people are using their hardware just as a hobby or for fun. None of their products are as beginner friendly as they are claiming them to be. Which is why you find so many open box brand new DJI products on the third party market. I can't tell you how many amazing deals I've gotten because the market is full of people buying into the DJI ads, buying their product, and then having no clue how to use the product. Thanks DJI, I guess? lol.
Anyways,
I appreciate the extensive feedback, however, you failed to check the date of this video. All the DJI stuff you say I should have used didn't exist back then. The gear I used was the latest gear DJI had at the time. The focus pro motor for example wasn't released until about a year after this video was published. It's entirely possible things have significantly improved in the past 19 months however it was bad enough back then that I returned the entire system. Thank you for confirming that this is not a system for beginners, that ended up being the point of the video.