Exhaust Gas Temperature - ( The Gauge Readings From My ZD30 )
Вставка
- Опубліковано 11 сер 2020
- How i monitor the exhaust gas temperature (EGT) readings on my ZD30 Nissan Patrol.
My ZD30 is a 2009 Common Rail turbo diesel engine.
Having an exhaust gas temperature gauge, so you can monitor the temperature range that your EGT temps are showing, is very important.
I think an exhaust gas temperature is vital to have inside your 4WD, not only so you can see the exhaust gas temperature range inside your engine, but to help with the longevity of your engine.
I pretty much drive my ZD30 engine by that exhaust gas temperature gauge.
If i see the gauge that shows my EGT temps climb towards 600 degrees while I'm driving up a steep on the road, i generally drop back a gear just to keep the exhaust gas temperature range at a safer temp range.
![My ZD30 Turbo Boost Pressure and EGT Gauges - [ In Real Time ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/x4llJAPc3vo/mqdefault.jpg)
![Why Has My ZD30 Engine Been So Reliable - [ Watch This ]](/img/n.gif)
Love your work Tim! One of the best channels around 🍻 keep up the good work 👍🏻
Thanks a lot Geoff.
I greatly appreciate your feedback mate.
Cheers Tim.
2009 GU 3L CRD Wagon , 3 inch full exhaust, Roo ssytem and remap for Touring and towing , new larger intercooler welded Not crimped ,, EGR partly tuned out Not blocked , Dawes Value system , bigger bonnet scoop, standard turbo , 21 max PSI boost , Provent catch can , 100kph on highway EGT 380 to 400 , going up hills up to 550 , 33 inch tyres, 2 inch lift. snorkle fitted , love the video , good info and the same info i got when i got my Gu 7 years ago looked Nissan Patrol forum , awesome , EGTs then were over 600 to 700 , since then its had new glow plugs , now new injectors at 210,000ks , very happy with fuel , getting 11.5 per 100 on hyway and 13 to 15 lts per 100 ks in the high country alot of low range ,
Hi Tim
I put a turbo timer in my hilux you need to wire it up to your hand break so if the hand brake is not on the car will stop running and wire it up so you can't lock your doors with the car running as well.
Love your work keep it up 🇦🇺🍻
G'day James,
Ahh righto.
I've not heard of anyone wiring up their turbo timer in the way you have.
Top stuff mate, thinking about safety with your set up.
Thanks for your reply.
Cheers Tim.
Hi Tim good conversation on EGT. Had a few text back & forth with you over time, I’m guy running the 2001 3lt patrol with 650,000 on the dash & got 500,000 out the original motor, I been running a gauge for the pass 3 year & all stock except for 2 & half in exhaust & it will sit on 300-400c on the Hume towing the camper all day,Yeah the hills soon change that but drop back & just take your time, it’s not a car- it’s a truck to enjoy the drive in.👍
G'day mate,
Thats cool mate, you are getting some great temp numbers from your 3ltr thats also done very high Ks, which is great.
Slow a steady always wins the race mate and that way you get to where you're going.
Thanks mate for your reply.
Cheers Tim.
Thanks Tim. Awesome topic.
Thanks Rob,
It was a great night last night on this topic.
Some great replies from a lot of people.
Thanks for your feedback mate.
Cheers Tim.
Hi Tim good stuff, great content
Thanks Ronald, it was an interesting topic thats for sure.
Cheers Tim.
Very interesting topic Tim.
Thanks Alan.
It is an interesting topic, thats for sure.
Cheers Tim.
@@timbates4wdadventures Tim I would like to see a comparison of lockets v LSD.
Cheers
Allan
The rolling resistance of the type /size of tires play a role in EGT's.
I'm driving an 03 GU wagon running 31" ATR, 2" lift, TD42T, ARE top mount intercooler and stealth scoop, Kinagawa TD-05h, 3" dump and high flow exhaust, catch can, 3" intake and 4" fats air box, Qikazz fan and hub. It's also a compushift controlled RE4 auto!
EGT's currently measured post turbo but will move it to pre shortly. 550° post is the key which should be about a max of 430°pre.
G'day Andrew,
Yeah so many variables between different vehicles and set ups when it comes to EGT readings.
You have a good list of mods attached on your motor.
Looks like its all working well for you.
Thanks for your reply mate.
Cheers Tim.
Hi Tim,
I have a 2011 ZD30 - remapped, 3”exhaust, over-boost valve, Boost, Oil Pressure, EGT and battery gauges.
I was unsure about fitting Oil Pressure gauge as I was told by a cocky youngish chief mechanic in my workshop not to worry about it. However I doubted many things he had to say and had done previously (based on my research) so spoke with the older fellow (owner) who has a wealth of experience with Turbo Diesels but is unfortunately slowly stepping aside. He thought about it for a moment and then recommended the Oil gauge.
As it turns I went to the outback shortly after and experienced the engine stall a couple of times in low range at very low speed. This was accompanied by my Oil gauge beeping which made me recognize that it was telling me the pressure had dropped right off - even to zero.
When i got back to Melb I took it back to the Mechanic and the older guy soon diagnosed the Oil pump working loose. This apparently is a common problem with the ZD30. Unfortunately, this meant that the engine needed to be pulled out to refit 6 or so poorly designed and fitted bolts - the option of going in through the sump is apparently inadequate to do the job correctly.
The frustrating thing is that it took 30 hours of labour to correct the pump which perhaps only takes about 15 minutes in itself.Of course this was very expensive but if I didn’t have the oil gauge I probably would not have recognized or acted quick enough to have it diagnosed and treated. This would have meant the oil pump would have fallen off and destroyed the engine. As it was that was not far from happening.
On a separate note my EGT’s were poor - couldn’t travel beyond 104kmh without the temp shooting north of 550 degrees which was the recommended max ease off point. Over taking and cruising was a nightmare on the black-top.
I fitted a HPD intake from the air box to the turbo and added a stage 2 intercooler like yours. This made the truck sound better but also drive much better. It will pull like a train if necessary.
The EGT’s have dropped off nicely overall but will still edge up to 600 with even a modest incline. I haven’t connected the fan as yet as I am little unsure which wire to pick-up. Nonetheless, when it is connected I am hopeful this will drop the temps down on these slight climbs.
The boost is limited to about 19psi which I reach very readily without pushing too much. Would this be typical? Is also cruises at about 14psi which is higher than yours - should this be lower?
Regards
Krecha
G'day mate,
I have the oil pressure gauge as well.
Thats another very important gauge to have.
With out the gauge showing you whats going on is asking for trouble.
Once the standard oil pressure light comes on thats in the dash, it's generally too late. You would want to switch the motor off very quickly if you rely on the standard oil pressure light.
The gauge will will give you second by second info on how the oil pressure is going.
Once you get that fan going on the bottom of your intercooler, you should find your EGt's will come down.
Without that fan working, the intercooler is only doing its job while you are doing 100kph down the road.
Your boost rangers sound all right mate. Depends on how it's been tuned.
Mine has been tuned to put out the boost that it does.
Thanks heaps mate for your detailed reply.
Cheers Tim.
Run your wire into your power supply at the washer bottle, it's ignition powered and is an easy spot to splice into.
Evening, watching this some time after it was streamed, but just want to note: I have a digital EGT gauge with an alarm set at 600C, which doesn't go off til I drop below 500C. I have a chip in my Patrol, and yes, it could easily push up beyond 600C when climbing a hill, it isn't struggling to hold 100km/hr.
My highway temp is as yours was, around the mid 400's.
Been considering putting in an aftermarket intercooler, from HPD...
G'day Shane,
The bigger intercooler would help with reducing those EGT's.
My temps at 100kph are low 300's.
Big drop since the turbo upgrade and bigger intercooler.
Thanks for your reply mate.
Cheers Tim
My go-to rule when my zd was stock (and a mechanic told me this) was do not go above 550C. Having said that with the mods I'm running now it won't go above 480C. Having your EGT too low is not ideal either, because turbos harness exhaust heat to make boost, so you are effectively robbing yourself of power and torque if the EGT's are too low at a given rpm and load.
Yeah mate, thats spot on. They need a certain temp to operate and to low isnt good at all while running.
Thanks a lot for your reply and feedback mate.
Cheers Tim.
Bit late putting a comment on here mate but I’ve just bought a 2011 crd wagon. It has Redarc gauges, tillix kit, steinbauer chip, 3 inch exhaust, factory turbo factory intercooler max boost is 15 psi and my egts sitting on 100km on the highway here in Tassie egts sit 300-350. Up hills it sits around 450-500. Egts drop dramatically once I’m off the throttle. I’m bout to upgrade the intercooler to a larger top mount as my factory one has a few stain marks so for peace of mind I’m upgrading it. Just fitted a scan gauge and my water temp barely reaches 90 degrees up hills and on the flat roads it sits around 86-88. I’ve heard stories about the steinbauer not being great but I spoke to the mechanic that fitted it and he assured me that it’s safe and so far the gauges don’t lie. I’ve only had the vehicle for a week now and I’m loving it.
G'day Donny,
Never too late for a reply mate. Looks like you are getting some good numbers after the work you have done and things should get better when you fit the bigger intercooler fitted.
Thanks for your reply mate.
Cheers Tim
Hey Tim, always drive by the egt gauge. Even if it gets over 500 I back off. Usually the last one up the hill , but who cares want the engine to last. Just have the 3 inch exhaust and Dawes valve set to 15 psi I get 380c at 110 kmh usually 11 psi on the flat. Max has been 620c, pushing hard up hill. Cheers
Yeah they are great numbers that you are also getting.
Backing of and down a gear when going up a steep hill is the go.
No rush, just rather get to where im going.
Thanks a lot mate for your reply.
Cheers Tim.
Ha Tim also thinking about front locker on my 08 zd30 patrol, any chance you you do a topic night on the positive and negative on air and E lockers other than price
Also what turbo and intercooler did you upgrade too?
G'day Troy,
Some good topics to chat about for sure in that lot.
Thanks mate, will look into a few of those.
Cheers Tim.
Anyone have any experience with dpf back exhaust and whether a 3 inch will lower egts?
I've got a 2018 Isuzu MU-X that has no engine mods, just the standard touring and off road stuff (bullbar, winch, 4mm bash plates, aux fuel tank, drawers & fridge etc,). I use a Scangauge 2 to monitor temp.
The normal driving EGT is low to mid 300s , occasionally high 300s, and when the DPF is doing a burn it gets high 400s into low 500s. I use the Scangauge to also keep an eye on engine coolant, volts, and auto temp.
G'day Wayne,
Sounds like you have a great set up on your MU-X.
Good that you have the gauges to monitor those temps, well worth it for sure mate.
Thanks for your reply mate.
Cheers Tim.
Thanks for posting this mate.
I have thought about getting something for my PajSport to check EGT and gearbox temps but didn't know these things existed.
They look fairly simple to install and setup.
What is your experience with it and are you happy with it?
Cheers.
@@oldbloke204
G'day mate,
I dont have a gearbox temp gauge.
But the EGT gauge is a really good gauge to have, the info it gives you is well worth having one.
I had mine installed by an auto elct.
Thanks for your reply mate.
Cheers Tim.
@@timbates4wdadventures My thing is bog standard and I don't use it hard core but I would certainly like to know if it was outside comfortable operating parameters off road as the cost of repairs for major components would be eye watering to say the least.
Modern CRD are extremely good but finicky little critters as well.
Thanks for the video mate and I forwarded your recent video about your solo camp at Native Dog Flat so I'm guessing it will be on his list of things to do whenever he is allowed our of his driveway.
Thanks for the videos mate much appreciated.
@@oldbloke204 Yeah mate, any major repairs are going to cost a bucket load thats for sure.
Thanks mate for forwarding on the Native Dog video. That was such a great trip mate. Hope you can to see the place some day.
I have a crd auto with stock turbo, small intercooler upgrade, boost control, exhaust, dp-chip and redarc triple gauge. I drive by egts as well. I try and keep under 500c. It's not possible up hills at 100, so on highway I try for under 600c.
Flat highway cruise I get 420-450.
Weighs 3050kg empty
G'day Arron,
Yeah thats the go mate. I drive mine by the egt gauge, specially out on the highway.
500 is my absolute cut off temp. If it's climbing up toward that, i will then start dropping down a gear and go up a hill slower until i get over the top.
Some good numbers you are getting from yours.
Thanks for your reply and feedback mate.
Cheers Tim.
Hey Tim, could you do a video on GVM and vehicle weight and what you are doing to keep your weight low
Hi Zac,
Im currently looking into a lot of ways to reduce weight on my Patrol.
I will make a video of how i do that when i get it going.
Thanks for your reply mate.
Cheers Tim.
I've got a Nissan patrol zd30, stock turbo and intercooler. Sitting on 100 klm my gauge reads... 400 deg. Would like it to be lower though...
When sitting on 60klm my exhaust temp is 300.
Gday mate
You might need to add some after market mods to your ZD30 if you want to get your egt numbers down.
Mine at 100kph sits on 300 degrees
Thanks mate for your feedback.
Cheers Tim
Hey Tim, what tune is it? Is it a Uni chip type setup or a re-flash of the ECM?
G'day Chad,
Mine is an ECU remap. Goes great.
Cheers Tim.
Hi could you please tell me where is the water temp switch is located on the motor on my zd30
Not really sure mate.
I dont have a water temp gauge. But it would be handy.
Cheers Tim
Bugger missed the stream . Ok got A question. Getting a snorkel installed on my Pk ranger and i have a K@N Filter . The installer said he doesn't recommend them because they bugger the Air flow sensor?
Can we add on air box sizes aswell, do they make a difference.. :)
If aftermarket metal or the stock plastic ones..
G'day Jim,
I'll do some research on that one and see what i can find out for a live chat night.
Thanks heaps mate for your question.
Cheers Tim.
@@daniel-ll5zr I'll see what i can find out on that mate.
Cheers Tim.
@@timbates4wdadventures Tim google '' Duramax iso 5011 test '' …...All the answers are in this test, why not too.
Good subject and I must admit I am still a bit confused about it all. I have an auto 2002 ZD30 ( Direct injection non-CRD ). It's all stock ( except 2.75 inch exhaust ), 250,000 km. I have asked a few different Nissan mechanics about whether I need things like oil catch cans, gauges etc etc and they all say the same thing. Unless you have modified the vehicle you don't need to worry. One even mentioned that Nissan recently released a notification saying the damage oil catch cans have done and also using MAF sensor cleaner ruining peoples sensors within 6 months?
G'day mate,
I have been running an oil catch can on my 3ltr for quite a few years now, and Ive never had a problem.
I don't think it can hurt to have gauges installed no matter what engine mods to have installed.
Most of the time, when the factory dash warning lights come on, it's generally too late.
As they only react to the extreme end of the problem, not as the problem is developing.
Where as having a gauge to see first hand before it's too late, is the way to for my way of thinking.
Yes, certainly as you modify the motor, then gauges are needed even more so.
Thanks mate for your reply.
Cheers Tim.
@@timbates4wdadventures Thanks Tim
@@chilloutvibesforyou No worries mate.
@@timbates4wdadventures Trying to get someone who can drill and weld and do the electrics all in one is proving difficult unless you know someone in Brisbane North?
@@chilloutvibesforyou
Do you know Jamie Hazelden from Jamies Touring Solutions?
He's based in Landsborough.
See if you can speak direct with Jamie on 1300 377 128
I'd be surprised if he couldn't steer you in the right direction.
See how you go mate.
I drive by the EGT and boost gauge,,,, more fuel means more heat .. more boost keeps it cool.. find the sweet spot. towing 2.5 ton van, sitting on 100k'sthe temp is 485.on about 12 boost. ML triton ... 3inch exhaust. a bit of a chip.. boost up to 15...it will run on 460 degrees at 80 k's on no boost...Cheers
Driving by that boost and EGT gauge sure is the go Graeme.
They both give you very important numbers, and even more so when you are towing a van.
Thanks for your reply mate.
Cheers Tim.
From factory boost around 11 psi e g t around 207 at 100 kh
Ahh rightO.
Thanks for that reply mate.
I've always been keen to know what the starting numbers would be.
Cheers Tim.
I'm curious to hear what your coolant temperature gets up to under load Tim?
G'day Scott,
I dont have a water temp setup on the gauges.
Not sure what that would be.
Cheers Tim
@@timbates4wdadventures definitely something to keep and eye on since the factory gauge has a large temperature margin.
@@ozzieadventures6261 Yeah mate, it would be a handy read out to have.
Where do you have your EGT probe? pre or post turbo?
I'll check for you mate.
Pretty sure it's post turbo.
Cheers Tim.
Agreed, this is a 'hot' topic on the forums!
The whole point of measuring /monitoring your EGT's is to not cook the turbo..... Isn't it?
So why put it after the turbo?
Yes it's a PITA but tapping the exhaust manifold before the turbo will give you more accurate indication of what the fins are copping.
You'll find the temp is lower pre turbo too. So you'll need to mentally calibrate what the new pre turbo temp is for a post turbo 550°.
My old TD42t was 110° less measured pre compared to post turbo.
Hi Tim could you do a video on diff lockers thanks mate 👍
G'day Damien,
Could you explain what it is you would like to know about diff lockers.
Then i can put a chat video in place.
Thanks for your question mate.
Cheers Tim.
And what’s the difference between ARB air lockers and TJM E’locker I think that would be topic to talk about
I've been thinking about it for quite some time now. I'm just a little unsure what way too go as in elocker or airlocker and some pros and cons about both. I haven't used either on the tracks before but I have seen people use them on the same tracks as me and I find I have too work my 4wheel drive abit harder in some areas and they make it look like a walk in the park.
Don't forget the lokka
@@darrenbould7562 depends on what vehicle you currently have, and if you have LSD, CDL, etc, then you can work around options like keeping the LSD and adding front E locker or going Air on rear and front to change between to suit enviroment like steep rock incline front..sand rear locker etc.
LOL, Air-to-Air Top-Mount intercoolers simply don't perform when compared to a FMIC. I took 80° off the EGT's simply by moving to a FMIC.
Thats great results for the intercooler change you got.
But im very happy with my Top Mount cooler. Works really well for the EGT temps im getting.
Cheers Tim
@@timbates4wdadventures FMIC's are not for the average Joe, a lot of plumbing work and current kits all rely on big holes being cut in front body work as well as costing a mint and still being rather small. I managed 600x300x75 intot he front with zero cutting of metal, used all factory mounting holes and hardware. Piping goes down and back up in the bay and 100% reversable.
In hindsight, if I was to ever do it again, FMIC and run the plumbing. I will never use another Top mount Air/Air IC.
@@bentheguru4986 Interesting information you have provided mate.
I dont know enough about the IC you have mentioned.
But, i greatly appreciate your feedback.
Cheers Tim.
@@timbates4wdadventures eBay 600x300x75 3" IC with 3-2.5" silicone elbows and rest at 2.5" and kept piping direct as posible. Strong boost, strong pull and to be honest, no lag that you are going to notice. These are not race engines making ponies, we make clydesdales.
@@bentheguru4986 absolutely spot mate.
Engines designed for the bush not the race tracks. Lol.
What Turbo you running?
G'day mate,
It's a Garret.
Cheers Tim.
@@timbates4wdadventures thanks mate the Garret GT2052V is what the ZD30CRD runs standard out of the factory but i was more interested in if you had a modified version of the standard 1 ? has it been high flowed ? some shops modify the standard intake compressor housing and wheel to help them get to boost faster and easier
Also, your last dyno run on the car what was the exact power and torque figures ?
Like you i have found the ZD30CRD to be the best gamble ive ever taken on a car as it is reliable as hell but i am now in the middle of planning for a trip around aus with the family towing a 20ft caravan and i really dont want to part ways with the old girl so im research the hell out of what i can do to make her a better towing rig and also to give her a birthday because i think she deserves 1 after all the hell ive put her through , got 235k on the clock and i havent put a spanner to the engine yet and bought purchased with 80k on the clock
Ahh missed it just finished dinner, and I've got a few video requests
Why do people get one or the other a plastic snorkel and stainless steel snorkel and a bit more LSD's
G'day Dylan,
I approached a company last year that makes stainless steel snorkels.
I wanted to chat about that very question and they didn't want to discuss it on camera.
Im not sure if one gets better air flow over the other.
But, I'll look into it and see what i can find out mate.
I hope dinner went down well mate.
Cheers Tim.
@@timbates4wdadventures ok thanks mate, dinner was good had lasagne
@@dylanmoncrieff8180 Very nice mate.
As an automotive design engineer I'll bust at least one myth about snorkels, they have no measurable effect on airflow through your induction where it matters as long as they aren't narrower than the narrowest part of the system. By the time the air has travelled through around 2m of pipework, any balance chambers, a filter that works on restriction, a turbo & intercooler, there isn't anything left of any induction advantage you may have had from a larger initial pickup. Face the cowl forwards, backwards, sideways, upwards, even fit a trombone if you want & there won't be any difference. They may even lead to more dust, but I'll leave that one alone as I'm sure an 'expert' will probably already tell me I'm wrong about the induction side of things & those of us who travel the High Country need them for water crossings so they can be a necessity 😃