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E89 Evercoat "Optex" Polyester Primer RESULTS! 1956 Chevy Bel Air Restoration
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- Опубліковано 8 лип 2023
- In Episode 89 of Restoring Christine, we block sand a full coat of Evercoat "Optex" Super Build 4:1 Polyester Primer, which has a built-in guide coat. It sprays pink and sands gray! Opinions, conclusions, confusions and recommendations - they're all here!
Bill Thomassie
"Christine" 1956 Chevy Bel Air
2-door Sedan Restoration
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Labor of Love Bill! Getter done!
Thanks for the encouragement!
Great content ! Not boring either like other channels. Because watching body work can get pretty boring ..
I appreciate that! I find myself watching other people work and it can get tedious! LOL!
Wow, that was a lot of work. Looks great.
That's why I ended up editing the video the way that I did! I can't imagine anyone wanting to watch me sand, sand, sand, sand, sand.... LOL!
Man that was a lot of work! You should be very proud.
Proud started to set in after I sprayed it with primer again and then blocked THAT! Episode 90 is gonna be the proud moment!
LOOKING GOOD
YES!
I am exhausted!! ;) Great video!
That was FOUR DAYS of exhaustion!
@@RestoringChristine1956 I am trying to remove all the stainless off my 56 to get ready for paint. Ordered a complete molding clip set for all the side moldings. Came in today. Now I know what the clips look like that I am trying to remove. ;)
I feel you brother.i have been doing the same thing you are.what I did was applied guide coat to the body filler and blocked it out like you would high build primer.that way I didn't have all the lows and highs to deal with later. I am steering clear of that product.
I can't blame you. I can't say that it did any better than the 2-part high-build primer.
I use a 3.0 iwata air gunsa primer gun without thinning it works extremely well with a lot more film build and it goes fast when applying it less gun fatigue
You definitely need a big tip to spray this primer, and I was warned to not use my good gun with this polyester fill in case something hardens inside. I think you'd be there forever with a 2.0 tip. While that Harbor Freight gun slung the material, it left a heavy orange peel that created a ton of work.
Just a suggestion I don’t know where you live but I live in Ohio and in the summertime it does get hot but what I did to alleviate the heat was install insulation 3 1/2 inches of insulation going with the studs which are 16 on center and then on top of that I put 6 inches of unfaced insulation going the opposite direction above it so I have a total of 9 1/2 inches and it is so cool in the shop compared to what it is in Ohio in the summertime. Give it a try you might like it. I also have 3 1/2 faced insulation in the walls
Insulation would probably do wonders, I just never did get around to finishing the walls. With everything bare-stud and no ceiling, it's just an unfinished box that's a slave to the elements!
I've used the evercoat slick sand poly primer surfacer before with good results. Used 180 and 220 grit. I thought it sanded pretty easily
This product is probably best suited for a local area of repair and not for blocking 100% of the surface area. It sanded so much easier on the touch-ups.
Also linear blocks will increase your efficiency and quality check them out well worth the money for a glass finish promise
I think I know the ones you're talking about. I've only used Dura Block and the basic air file jitterbug board.
All I can say is it's a process ... all you can do is keep at it ... when I get to this stage I use a regular 6 inch DA and take care to keep it flat to the surface and keep it movin ... your car has so many crowns on it that I find it follows the contours better and doesn't dig in on the reverse curves ... but it's what ever you get used to doing ... keep at it ...
I've got that 8" "bondo hog" that I think I'm going to see if I can get some really fine grit wet-n-dry for. That might be the best way to keep the surfaces as flat as slate.
Here we go
I'm always thinking "I've got to get @ocaumlador his Sunday coffee video! LOL!
@@RestoringChristine1956 😂😂
Don't you just love the south Louisiana heat i have also been soaking wet every day work on my olds and i have several fans running but it doesn't help much just blowing hot air on me but like you getting work done everyday don't get overheated
Dude, the humidity is ridiculous. When I take my shirt off, it's filled with 2 pounds of filler and 3 pounds of SWEAT!
Finish one primer from napa or Amazon doesn't cost a lot. Tcp global also has some. Tamco paints these are all some products that won't break the bank. You are getting into the fun part lol. Not sure how you do it in that heat. It's not to important if you didn't get your filler work done before just need to have it done before you stop. I have never used that product but have heard from others that it sands hard. I just use spray on guide coat. Just keep plugging away. Enjoyed the episode. Take care
Thanks! I just finished spraying it with 2 coats of the Roberlo DTM and blocked everything AGAIN, and it's looking REALLY good! I have some touch-ups to do and then it'll be as close as I can get it. I'll either shoot it with an epoxy primer or sealer, depending on what my paint material guy recommends. Stay tuned!
@RestoringChristine1956 if the roberlo is a urethane then I wouldn't spray the epoxy but would go with a good non sanding sealer. Hope the dogs are well.
Question for you, I'm currently using the Optex and I too should have gon further in some places with my filler first. There is lots of info on the Optex that shows it being sprayed and how the color change provides the guide coat but nobody seems to explain what to do with this product when you have a low. I could open the low up with 180 and spray more I guess? or sand into it with some 80 and use regular filler? - thanks!
I'd treat that product like a filler-primer where you've roughed everything in and are close to flat. It's not that much better at filling and leveling than I found the Roberlo DTM primer to be. But with the Optex, since it's essentially Bondo (polyester body filler), you still have to prime over it when you've finished sanding it. While its sprayable, it's not a primer. I just found that it was so hard to sand that, for me, I don't think I'd go back with it.
That was great. Question, I want to avoid 2K primer. So I applied epoxy primer, did the body work and if I apply epoxy sealer, ok to spray this op top of sealer or has to go on top of 2K or 1K primer?
The Optex is basically liquid polyester filler, so it needs to be primed/sealed. I think either would work, but it's best to check to see what the topcoat prep recommendedations are for whichever primer you consider. You definitely need them to be chemically compatible, and then it's probably a matter of cure time before topcoatong. You're probably going to have another step in preparing the primer for topcoat. Check out Episode 105:
ua-cam.com/video/SZSuIq_VA_M/v-deo.html
Its zero shrinkage, thats why its hard to sand.
Maybe, but that stuff is DENSE.
U SHOULD TRY DIABLO SAND PAPER u can wet sand with it holes up three to four times longer and don't clog up
Thanks for the tip! You know, I'm not a huge fan of these rolls of 3M. I found that the Sunmight brand paper that I used a few years ago held the tooth a bit longer. But neither of them gummed up unless I attacked it too early.
So last question, I have sanded and sanded, what i'm finding is no matter what, there is still a slight pink hue to the gray, was this the same for you as well?
Yeah, it's not perfect in that sense. I also found that heat and time altered the pink color. It's best soon after it's sprayed. After a day or more, the color starts to shift on its own. But don't rely exclusively on its color guide to tell you that your level. You should still be able to see it in your sand marks.
Hey Bill, not sure but I wonder if the evercoat feather fill G2 polyester hi build primer woulda saved you some labor hours?😊JR
Maybe so. I just asked for a polyester filler/primer, and this is what they gave me. My main guy wasn't at the counter, so I wasn't able to go to school on it beforehand. I did get his recommendation on where to go next, and that's what steered me right back to the Roberlo DTM to top the polyester.
Next step
Red epoxy primer to seal it all and then paint😅😅😅
I'm definitely going to seal it, but whether or not I do that with an epoxy primer or something else, I'm not sure yet... we'll see!
Just watched a video review from Pete south west rod and custom man s been doing custom work 40 yrs product bleed though 2k primer and epoxy total junk no help from customer service if this man says its not good its not good
After using it, I can't say that I liked it as much as just regular high-build primer to fill and level.
Guys watch DIY. Auto school Pete will tell you that primer is crap. It bleeds into the topcoat when it's painted over. Don't use this product use 2 k. Heavy build only.
To be honest, this Optex is not really "primer." It's better thought of as "liquid Bondo." Just as you wouldn't spray topcoat right over Bondo or any other polyester body filler, you aren't supposed to do that with the Optex. The instructions specifically state to prime and seal it after sanding. That said, would I use this product again? Probably not, but that's mainly because the high-build primer works just as well and doesn't need to be sealed/primed after.
Best thing he can do is put a 2 k. Primer over it. Not poly. Then prep it. Don't use that poly primer. Christine will need stripped and redone doing it this way watch and see once painted he will be pissed I gaurentee. I hate to see such a waste. Becouse of a bad primer. Sigh Idaho Dan.
I appreciate your concern, but everything is fine. I primed the entire car after using the Optex to see if it was better at decking and leveling. I painted Christine the last week of December. Check out Episode 107: ua-cam.com/video/GLbDzznmhFI/v-deo.html . It's almost the last week of February now and there is nothing bleeding through and nothing failing after 2 months. I've also wet sanded and buffed a few spots for paint correction and it's solid. My guess is that anyone having trouble with the Optex is because they used it like a primer and not like a filler that needed to be primed after applying.