BLEEDING BRAKES MADE EASY! | New Tool Tuesday
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- YESSSS!!! TUESDAY IS FINALLY HERE!!!! Welcome to another episode of #NewToolTuesday. Doing brake jobs right the first time is something that will save you lots of time and money. If you ever have to replace a brake caliper, pads or rotors, it will require you to bleed the braking system. Have you ever heard the saying, “If you don’t use it, you lose it” ? Well that applies to your bleeder screw found on your brake calipers and on your clutch slave cylinder. If you don’t ever crack the bleeder screw loose to let all of the old fluid out, you might see yourself replacing calipers.
With this Capri Pneumatic Vacuum Bleeder, you can so fully bleed your braking and clutch system in a matter of minutes. Bleeding either system requires removing all of the old DOT 3 fluid from the lines along with all of the unwanted air. You should replace your brake fluid every 2-3 years as most manufacturers advise, however it should be done more frequently should you beat on your car and give it more heat cycles.
A common misconception is that air just creeps into the braking system which makes the brake pedal feel spongy, but in actuality, it is the deteriorating silicone in the brake fluid that is the cause of this. The more the fluid is heated up and then cooled down, the faster the silicones and additives in the fluid will break down. If you replace your standard DOT3 brake fluid with a SYNTHETIC DOT4 fluid, not only will the fluid not degrade in the same way as a traditional fluid, but it will also be able to withstand much higher temperatures before the fluid boils.
///// LINKS TO PRODUCTS 👇 /////
Capri Vacuum Bleeder Kit ▶︎ goo.gl/7yB7cj
Capri Replacement 3.3 ft. Hose ▶︎ goo.gl/eLuzPv
Capri Replacement 6.6 ft. Hose ▶︎ goo.gl/jLjMv9
Motul RBF600 DOT Synthetic Brake Fluid ▶︎ goo.gl/J2cB2D
Alternative Cheap Vacuum Bleeder ▶︎ goo.gl/5FBHfB
Camera Used for this Video ▶︎ goo.gl/Tnxgj1
///// BECOME ONE OF THE BOYS BY FOLLOWING MY 👇 /////
UA-cam Channel ▶︎ / milanmastracci
Instagram ▶︎ / milmast
Facebook Page ▶︎ / milanmastracci
///// YOU CAN SEND ME STUFF HERE 👇 /////
MILAN MASTRACCI
PO BOX 30075 TOWN SQ. PO
FONTHILL, ONTARIO, CANADA
L0S 1E3
If you have any additional questions, feel free to send me an email at milanmastracci@gmail.com. Be sure to tag me on Instagram @milmast so I can see what you guys are up to as well. Thank you so much for watching!!
Thanks for not doing what others presenters do: have silly skits. long rambling disorganized discussions, obnoxious music, etc. You got straight to the point, with well-organized instruction and excellent videography. Hopefully, the others will take lessons.
I've never had too much success with vacuum operated brake bleeders, pressure bleeding is a much better options. Vacuum brake bleeders will suck air around the hose fitting and you will never see a consistent fluid without bubbles. Aaaanyway, great video Milan! :)
If that is the case with the bubbles, turn the pressure down at the compressor so it doesn't pull so hard. I've had it where I've pressure bled brakes and it wouldn't give me a proper pedal feel until about the third time doing it. With this thing, it nails it on the first try :)
I'm glad it's working for you, mate! :)
RuinMan a little grease around the brake bleeder
Just got mine, and I ran into the same issue. I didn't know about turning down the psi, and the fluid or was pulling, I had no idea if there were still bubbles. So I just ran the vacuum until it pulled about a shot glass of brake fluid. I was somewhere between deciding if the brakes felt slightly spongy or just ok. Well I drove for awhile with my wife following and everything seemed fine brake wise... Well sort of. I did smell a burning oily smell, and didn't think anything of it because I had just turned on the AC. I also thought to myself maybe a little grease was burning between the pads and shoes due to slightly greasing the axle and hubs I replaced... Anyway as I was about to call this a success, the brakes suddenly locked in me twice, quickly flashing console brake light then went away. After reading and watching some more videos, it's apparent I didn't do this right🙄. I believe lowering the psi is crucial! As you really need to see about 2-3 inches of fluid build up holding the tune vertical. Bubbles should go up, and solid fluid should remain in the tube before you close the valve. Also, I still believe you need a second person, because what you really want to do, is have the second person hold the brake pedal down, THEN TIGHTEN the bleeder valve, after making sure no more bubbles. This ensures the plunger effect in that line is solid fluid!
mike92505 theoretically you shouldn’t need to hold the pedal down as long as you close the valve while its still sucking fluid through because then your not letting any air back in.
Milan you should be proud of yourself, the info you are sharing is very helpful, thank you. You have been awesome.
Got this exact one last year new in the box diagram but no instructions THANKS FOR POSTING now I can get to work with it
That's crazy how fast things rust in areas where it snows. In California it's not even an issue.
No kidding dude.. I'm quite jealous!!
Thanks For the Video, I did my Brakes and couldn’t figure out how to empty the canister out until I saw your Video
SIMPLE EXPLANATION OF THE TOOL, GREAT VIDEO.
Do you tighten the bleeder valve while you're still vacuuming?
Open -> Vaccum -> Tighten -> Release trigger?
Yes for sure. Otherwise you can re-introduce air back into the system. You want to both open and close the bleeder valve while pulling vacuum.
I just tried doing this, and I was able to successfully change my brake fluid; however, it seemed as though there was a constant stream of bubbles while bleeding through the calipers. The mechanic (owner of the diy shop I was at) said that you'll never get it to stream only liquid w/ no bubbles.
1. I was wondering if that was true, or if maybe it was for that specific vacuum bleeder, and
2. How would I know if there is no air in the system that way?
Whenever I'd lower the vacuum's strength, either bubbles would still come out or it would be too weak to suction out anything.
My brakes are fine so I don't think I messed anything up. However, I would love if you could give a little more insight on this. Thanks!
Thanks for the video; it was helpful. I like this unit, but if I had to do it again, I'd get a very slim 10mm wrench as the rubber part that attaches to the nipple leaves little space to get the wrench in there. I'd grind one down if necessary. I like the way it functions though with the exception that I didn't have a feeder bottle for the Master Cylinder reservoir. I had to keep checking and filling. I also pushed the brake in manually to get more fluid to run through. Still nice that it was a one person job. I used a scanner to bleed the ABS. The brakes are much more solid now, whereas they were mushy when I got the car back from the mechanic after installing all new brake components. I thought my master cylinder might be bad, but it was just an unprofessional bleed. Thanks again for the helpful video.
Depending on wat car .. or wat rims on the car .. in order to do it with wheels on
I hook up the vacuum bleeder and slightly crack the bleeder then pump the brakes while there is a vacuum on it. I've had issues using the vacuum system alone but using both seems to eliminate those issues.
I just got one and it didn't have any instructions. So your video was helpful.
Happy to help Mike!
Hey Milan. Ordered this tool via your link last Thursday evening and it arrived here in New Zealand today (Monday). Great effort by Amazon and amazing build quality. Can't wait to use it next weekend, provided the parts I ordered from Australia get here in time (Yep - my order from Australia is taking longer than the one from the US. Cheers buddy.
Adrian Edhouse: And how did the thing perform?
I saw no fluid
Hope it's a quality tool. I just ordered one. 👍
Hi. If I want to completely flush out fluid, to put synthetic fluid in. I need to suck it out of resivior and each brake caliber 1st, then add synthetic ?
Ehh I recommend the Motive Power Bleeder tool as it doesn’t require an air compressor ...
great video - thx for sharing.
Thank you , for your time to present this to us.
My pleasure!
Great job!!!
Thanks.. but did you have to put the brake pedal few time first before you bleed..??? ... 😮
Toyota previa ACR 50 ..have ABS pump..can use this item sir?
whats the air compressor attachment that goes over the air inlet?
can you bleed the master cylinder at the same time if you are pulling all the fluid out of it, or do you need to bleed the master cylinder by itself and then bleed the calipers?
i need to know what hose he uses to connect to the brake bleeder
Nice new tool Milan, absolutely love the blooper too, ha ha 😜😜😜😜👍
I used to hate brake bleeding and always needing 2 people but now my boy took us to an other level thank you Milan.. Definitely buying it
Happy to help brother!! 👊
It’s a nice tool. To bad it doesn’t have a vacuum gauge. It’s not needed but nice to have.
Ohhhhhh shitttttt it broke...best intro ever
LOL safe to say the tool is durable ;)
Great job!! Will this work with drum brakes? Thanks. 👍
Yes it will
Always done it by myself with £2 of clear hose and a coke bottle. Worked for me and tbh by the time I've jacked the car up and took the wheels off it probably only takes me 20 minutes for considerably less cash.
Plus I need no air compressor. I'm sure these tools have their place but in my DIY garage, nah.
If that works for you Paul, than keep at it 👊
Paul, did you use a hand held vacuum pump to ensure there was no air in the lines? Bleeding brakes by oneself (without a pump) is damn near impossible as I found out today.
Hi!....do you do it on each caliper with this tool?
Man I need that bleeder! Pretty good video. I knew this guy looked familiar. I was like isn’t that the guy who did the sunex low profile car jack video? And yes it is I saw the jack in this video lol
Thanks for the great video bud. Visual is always great on top of reading instructions.
Great vid! But use gloves with chemicals like brake cleaners that are known to do nerve damage
On the front caliper is that a grade 8 bolt? Judging by the lines on the bolt
I really need to get one of these, so handy!
I couldn't agree with you more :) It is super helpful!!
2:52
So a Porter Cable pancake compressor should be adequate to do the job?
2 CFM is all it needs.
Is there any way to clean out the tank since the top cannot be removed? Thank you!
The cap comes off to empty the fluid, spray some brake cleaner in there and swish it around them dump it out do that a few times and the canister will be good and clean
Seems like a good tool. However if you don't open your bleeders when changing breaks you don't have to bleed them. Just pop the top on the master cylinder and compress your pistons. Your welcome
And contaminate the system you want to remove the old brake fluid not push it back trough the abs system etc.
Awesome video I’m purchasing this item ASAP thanks for introducing this item
No problem brother!! 👊
How is it holding up?
Does this work on ABS systems as well? Or is there any other special procedure to actuate the ABS and evacuate any fluid in the ABS?
you need a scan tool to activate the abs in order to bleed it i believe
What PSI it is rated 40-170 PSI so what PSI should the compressor be set at??
90 psi as usual…
@@waverider5751 after 2 years I get a reply. Thanks but I think I figured it out during these last 2 years.
@@Chris-lz7sx what did you find worked best?
I just use a one-way valve on some tubing. Works every time, don’t see the need to spend 50-100 bucks on a brake bleeder, and, soooo much noise from pneumatic vacuum bleeders.
Brake clean loves rubber, can cause some serious swelling, I’d use degreaser to clean the line if you choose to do it.
My Motive bleeder recommends denatured ethanol to clean out the brake fluid. It specifically forbids brake cleaner.
How big of a air compressor tank you'll need, to be able to run it? Cause i have those small pancake compressor and don't think i'll have enough run time to bleed the brakes.
I have a 20 gallon compressor, but if you have your pancake compressor plugged in, it will try to keep it as you're using the compressed air, which is still more than enough for this application.
Does it suck the air from abs
You did a great job on the video!
"You know time it is....... I know you do" 🤔
I need one of these not for the brakes for the PS work great for that. I rather use the Motive system because you don't have to keep adding fluid to the master if it runs dry with that suction system now you have to bench bleed the master which is a PITA.
The model i bought has a container that clamps to the side of the master cylinder to keep it topped up. Holds about a pint.
Do you bleed with this and Not press the brake pedal down for flow?
How will that work against the system with the pedal not depressed for flow pressure?
Will this process mess up any brake diaphragms ?
Hey Sean, so this bleeder works on the same principles as pushing the brake pedal. When you pump the brake pedal in a normal bleeding process, there is a pressure differential with the master cylinder being higher pressure, making the fluid flow away from it. When using this bleeder, you're creating a vacuum at the other end of the system, also creating a pressure differential, making the fluid flow away from the master. You will not need to pump the brakes while using this tool, given you don't let the master cylinder run dry of fluid.
@@milanmastracci thank you for the reply
Another reason to buy an air compressor. Great video!
So true!! It has so many different uses :)
Can I use a bike tire inflator that I got from home Depot? Its a Ryobi inflator. I'd like to know before purchasing a compressor
Can you use it on abs brakes?
Thanks Milan for the video.
Cheers man!! 👊
soo the car i drive when i drive it little harder and really use the brakes there comes a scratchy sound from it the brake pads are good and there is no lips found on the brakedisk itself, what could me the issue ????
I would chamfer the brake pads to solve that problem
thanks for vid. i just got mine and going to use it on my harley. what should i set my compressor out line to?
I’m planning on doing my Road King brake and clutch lines. How did it work for you?
@@michaelwalker3920 worked great, very simple
Love it!
its $86 but its fucking worth it
Wheres the GTR???🧐😂
Great video!
Nice tool. Bigger hose? Do you mean longer hose?
Longer hose lol Yes :)
Bad idea to spray brake cleaner on your air hose. What the brake cleaner does to rubber or plastic is makes it hard and brittle after a while. So folks DO NOT spray brake cleaner on any of your rubber parts of the car.
Shut up man its not that deep ive sprayed brake cleaner on plastic for 8 plus years
What PSI do you run yours? I can't seem to find a sweet spot when using it.
Much lower than what your air compressor can do. Keep it around 20-40 PSI.
@@milanmastracci thanks for the response! I believe the lowest I had mine set to was 30 PSI but I know my hose leaks so perhaps the actual pressure was off. I'll have to give it another go.
I know it an old video but I recently found you and went through it all. I'm also an 8th gen accord and 370z owner so I absolutely LOVE seeing you work on them.
Good 👍 video
You ever going to give the accord away like you said?
I did a raffle awhile back and said if I sold all 250 tickets, I'd give the car away but didn't sell them all, so I refunded the money.
I know this might sound stupid but will this work for drum brakes
Sure will buddy :) Drum and disc brakes both work on brake fluid, which means this will indeed work for both.
Ok I'm getting this then will make my job a lot easier
Thank you for responding
Not a problem :) I'm happy to help!!
Good for clutch aswell???
Sure is brother!
Loved the video
But where is the AUDI ????
Thanks Ahmad!
I sold it. I posted a picture on my Community tab on my UA-cam Channel and put a little blurb about it. Go check it out :)
Question for you...... When starting the process, and initially remove fluid from the master cylinder, are you completely removing all the fluid in there or just some? I was under the impression that if you fully vacuum out all the master cylinder fluid, you'd get air into your system.
Bleed the brakes while watching your master cylinder. Dont let it go empty or itll put air into the line. When u see your tube pulling in pure fluid and no air bubbles, the line is fully bled and free of air
The reason he removed all the fluid is because he is trying to replace the existing brake fluid with a DOT 4 version
Pressure bleeding is way more reliable
Not sure what you mean reliable it gets the fluid changed but the problem I see is risk of running the master dry then having to bench bleed it. Most of the time it's impossible to get the air out of the master by bleeding the wheel cylinder. This suction device is good for changing other fluids like power steering, and gear oil without removing the cover.
i am the first viewer yeah i love u milan good luck
I guess its sick huh?
Withaaaaut
Standard is usually a 9mm for bleeders
I would not buy this tool. When I used mine I didn’t know I needed a scanner to activate abs system to bleed. I started working on the back brakes. Tool suctioned all fluid and never saw consistent fluid. All fluid was suctioned dry up to the abs. Lower pressure than 100psi caused some back flow that introduce air into the system. I will be returning mine
so the tool is fine you just didn’t understand how your car worked
The brake cleaner is too extra 😅😅😅 u don't need to do that
Does this work Milan? /watch?v=1wwq1Vlk4Wg
You still need someone to pump the brakes
Not good enough .