Click here to watch part 2 of this series: ua-cam.com/video/mg5HPfJSwQg/v-deo.html Here are my bow parts. Bow is not available on amazon but the other gadgets are. 22 $ Compound Bow Sight: amzn.to/3nDplQn 10$ Peep: amzn.to/30Xel6F 15$ Release: amzn.to/3lDTKwf 150-200$ Bow: Samick SHT
The nocked end of the arrow will leave the string at the same place every shot , thus you have to place the arrow point in line with the nocked end of the arrow . I see it that it’s a budget build , but the arrow needs to fly straight , to achieve it’s maximum potential .
I love your style and effort you put into shooting. I shoot a compound bow and have for 30 plus years. I really appreciate all the effort you put into shooting more accurately! I never calculated a shot that much and wish I would have looking back. I have shot numerous deer and if your ever heading to the Great USA for a deer hunt I would love to host you! I would set everything up and promise you a great hunt. I am in Nebraska and have thousands of acres to hunt. We have very nice, large whitetail deer here and I know this would never happen but wanted to let you know if you ever wanted to hunt 200# plus whitetail deer we have them here and I can promise you a great hunt. Great video and great effort in your practice to shoot accurately and better. I had a Mundsterlander she was the best hunting dog ever. She was 15 before I had to put her down one of the saddest days ever for me and the kids. She was a member of our family and you are so lucky to have Amy with you. Keep up the great videos and archery shooting and techniques! Thanks Tony
I did archery from 7 through 19 and got busy and forgot about it. I'm 60 now and getting back into it. It's never too late to enjoy archery. Your videos are very encouraging.
Can’t shoot bows due to injuries. But at 46, I bought a compound bow just cause I could. (Such a fool I didn’t realise I couldn’t adjust the 65 pound draw without chafing strings. I have a steel plate in my neck. Makes a damn good garage piece ;)
I am 65 with no eyesight in left eye and fairly good vision in right eye. I am right handed with forests on two sides of me. Is this a hobby worth tackling? Also have a baby grand piano that I haven’t a clue how to play. In your opinion, would I be wasting my time learning how to play, or learning how to play in the woods?
Don’t know a thing about bow and arrow, but I found this fascinating. I had no idea what is involved to make an arrow fly straight. Thank you Lily. Much respect.
I have been an Archer for 5 years now, mainly compound bow. You are very good and your grouping at 25 yards with a 35 pound take down now was very good indeed, your understanding of archery is excellent. David.x
"Around" I suppose. But that has less to do with the type of bow than the construction of a specific bow. Not all compound bows have an arrow path straight through the center of the bow, and I suppose you could build a recurve out of strong modern materials that would allow an arrow rest in the center.
Fully agree, the size of the hole depends on the arrow's stiffness and not the size of the feather. (of course, the shooting style is changing the oscillation as inso80 mentioned)
I've shot archery for years, first thing I see is your knock point and rest don't appear to be level at full draw. This will cause vertical wag in the arrows during flight. Second, for a true "paper" test, the paper needs to be at same hight as the bow. The paper itself adds friction and if not level with the bow can cause minor wag. This appears to be the biggest things causing the offline tear. Your form and release look great and only need minor adjustments that will improve with practice and experience. Hope this helps. Great videos, love your channel.
@Dorian Grey last time I was at a range was 6-7 years ago. I shoot in my back yard and 6 years ago I was going every week and never saw it. Thanks for the heads up!
@Dorian Grey wood is great on a recurve bow. I had shot them in my youth many years ago and have been shooting a recurve since I bought my first compound bow when I was 13. A whitetail hunter for $20 last one they had and they were getting out of archery and it had been in the store for 6 months and was a lefty for me. I still have it over 40 years later. I now shoot a Hoyt Katera lefty 70# And I am shooting out to 40-45 with deadly accuracy. Love archery
Friendly comment here: A bow needs to be "tuned" in order to shoot properly. Shooting through paper will tell you if you need a stiffer shaft, different grain tip Etc. The arrow should match your draw length and the fetching need not be trimmed down. Shaft diameter and wall thickness will determine the correct shaft for your Bow. Then work with different grain tips.
What you say is technically true. However, I would argue against the need to do so with a basic recurve much past getting some arrows with the correct spine for your draw weight. With all that stuff she has on her bow, she might as well shoot compound and enjoy the increased efficiency and accuracy.
When I clicked on this video I didn’t expect to learn so much about archery. I have shot both recurve and compound bows and I applaud you for putting sights on a a recurve bow and using a release and showing the increase in accuracy both provide.
I make and shoot Traditional hand made bows and arrows tuned to “about right” with no sites or shooting aids.......this set up has been feeding families for over 10,000 years....not sure if absolute perfection is necessary for me but I sure appreciate the insights! Mind you.... I had to shoots thousands of arrows over a few seasons to get good enough to bring home meat.....and I am sure a modern bow with sites and good tuning would shorten that time substantially!.....what I love about archers is the willingness to share our body of knowledge with one another.🏹🏹 Thanks Lilly.
Okay, youtube randomly gave me this video and I don't even know where to begin. First of all this is a great bow, but specifically I like it because it doesn't look like those overcomplicated modern composite bows, but isn't a basic simple one either and still uses modern technology. Second, I've never seen such quiver, hell, I've never even thought of an idea of a multi-sectioned quiver. And third, it is always great, when a person not only uses something, but thinks how to improve it and can actually do this too. And I just love archery. Just because.
The overcomplicated modern bows can help you do things like easily shoot decent groups at 30 or 40 meters though - they do serve a purpose. And if you're using a bow for hunting instead of just target shooting, the ability to have a decent draw weight but have it let off at the back of the draw is amazingly helpful. I'm not saying it's impossible to hunt with a more traditional bow in any way shape or form, just that a compound bow makes life easier, especially if you don't have the time to spend every night in a tree or less than great hunting habitat.
When paper tuning you need to shoot straight not in a downward angle.. raise your paper target so you are not in a down ward angle. and use a thinner paper.
Shooting a recurve with a release aid changes the way that the arrow react at release. Basically they no longer go around the riser like they do when you shoot from your fingers. The string travel is not the same as a finger release (it is more linear back to bow) so the arrow reacts more like they do out of a compound bow with the flex being more up and down. Arrows tend to stay with the point left of the feathers because they don't bend around the riser like they normally would. Because of the more up and down bend, arrows shot this way also tend to smack down hard on the shelf then flying tail high just after the release. They tend to porpoise for quite a while before the feather can stabilize them. Putting a whisker biscuit or other compound style rest can make it easier to set up a workable nocking point.
I guess it makes sense. Why carry around a dozen or a score of arrows if you don't need them, lol. If you miss your first shot you probably won't get another anyhow, more ammo won't help. If you wound a target you probably won't need more than one more shot to finish it, more ammo won't help. Then again ... there's always stories with the shooter who brings a seven-shot revolver to the gunfight ...
As an archer I’ve noticed that you drop your bow arm very quickly after release. This causes arrows to hit low if they’ve not completely cleared the bow before you lower your arm. Holding your form for a couple of seconds longer will help with this.
As an Archer myself, she knows what she's doing. Doesn't matter where the arrow lands, what matters is consistency. You can always adjust where they land after. Her groupings were fairly tight.
In the video, you can see release in one frame, arrow underway in the next, bow moved in the next. I'm not sure what the frame rate is, but it must be faster than 20 fps. So she's dropping the bow some time in the 50 ms after the arrow clears. It's quite a lot of motion, too. It appears the bow is getting significant acceleration downward. Is it reacting against the arrow?
Hey Lilly, Check the grip on your front hand. If you are squeezing the grip it could be Torqueing the bow just a slight amount in the first micro seconds after release. Try this grip - When you draw back, actually just hold the bow in the notch between your index (pointer) finger and thumb. Barely reach around the bow with your index finger and just tap the tip of your thumb. Keep your other fingers off the grip completely! This will prevent you from applying torque to the bow. If that doesn’t fix this, I would closely at your arrow rest. Consider a drop away rest; I’m a big fan of the QAD rest. Drop away rest completely drops out of the way before the fletching passes the brace.
I have to agree, i watched the conversation about heads with surprise : The posture matters a lot, especially with this kind of angle. If you don't keep your arm steady when you release the arrow drops.
The reason for the feathers hitting down n to the right is the same thing she said about her release causing the leftward grouping at 25m. Givin enough flight distance the downward right lean to her release causes a leftward flight. Changing her forward grip is correct and not mansplaining. It's archersplaining.
Lilly, rest your bow in the "V" of your bow hand. Loosely... don't "Crush" the grip. Let the bow rattle in your bow hand. It will help you keep from torquing your bow. Also. Spine weight of your arrows will affect left and right "Waggle". Noch point on your string will affect up and down waggle. Also keep your bow arm up and on target after you shoot, it will help with your accuracy.
@@bushweasel actually that's only true in Mediterranean grip. If you hold the bow properly and nock against index finger and string, using your thumb to hold the string and set the arrow against the bow and thumb of your bow hand, you completely eliminate the archers paradox. It's how the Japanese shoot yumi, it's also much faster and more accurate.
@@sarchlalaith8836 using a release aid reduces it, but she is still using a recurve bow which is not cut to/past center and supports the arrow on its side. That unavoidable introduces a "sidewobble".
I agree. Loosely in the bow hand. I use a wrist strap so I dont close my hand at all. When I shoot the bow fall forward away from me and the strap keeps me from dropping the bow.
Lilly, for what its worth coming from me. I did some research and spoke to a buddy of mine that shoots archery after watching your video. The thing my buddy said is that it may not be the weight of your arrow. You may need to move your rest 1/32 to the left and/or you may be shooting too light of an arrow. Great video as always. I hope you are doing well.
If you could get a high speed camera like the slo-mo guys, you could get a really clear view of how your arrows are flying. They have a fantastic video where they have a master archer show what happens when he shoots an arrow - it's amazing how much they wobble, and how important that wobble is.
@@Syrusoo archers paradox - smarter every day did a vid on it . i've also noticed with the new arrows with plastic fletching they don't go over the rest as smooth as real feathers . regardless , you're doing pretty good . the paper ? i think at varying distances the wobble will indicate differently sort of like throwing a knife is at a diff. rotation at diff. distances . wanna check out some crazy archery look up lars anderson ( if my memory is right , it's been a while )
The thing about the archer's paradox wobble is that it's a horizontal wobble. Vertical deviations would be due to either vertical wobble or the arrow flying with a pitch angle not equal to 0. I'm no expert on the matter but I can't think of any reason why an arrow shouldn't remain almost entirely stable on the vertical axis, just something to consider.
The one thing that stuck with me from reading Chuck Adams books decades ago, consistently accurate bows are properly tuned with properly tuned arrows. I learned paper tuning from him and more about fish tailing and porpousing than I'll ever remember. When you get this dialed in, you won't be able to shoot two arrows at the same bullseye anymore. At least not without breaking something 🙂
The archer's paradox is the phenomenon of an arrow traveling in the direction it is pointed at full draw, when it seems that the arrow would have to pass through the starting position it was in before being drawn, where it was pointed to the side of the target. The bending of the arrow when released is the explanation for why the paradox occurs and should not be confused with the paradox itself.
Is it a kleine Munsterlander? I have a grosse Munsterlander and just found your channel, my dog insisted I subscribe :) I do a little archery aswell though ;)
As someone who has tuned Compound and Traditional bows for decades, since you're shooting off a plastic rest, I recommend bareshaft tuning as opposed to paper tuning. Also, you can just shoot at 20 or 25 M with feathered arrows to see which point weight gives you the tighest groups.
Old bare bow archer here. I've been shooting ever since I was about 8 years old mostly because my parents wouldn't let me hunt with a bb gun at that age until I was 10. I just stayed with the archery because I got better at it and enjoyed it more than shooting with bb gun. I left archery when I got my first 22lr at 12 years and only picked it up again at age 21 to hunt deer. Ever since then I have hunt archery season almost every year if I could. I am now 72 and have to tune in a new bow because my old one was stolen. I give you all this background to first tell you I have never shot with sites or trigger release. This year I am going to try a thumb release to see how I like it. Since watching your video I also want to test my arrow flight using paper targets. Seems like a pretty good way to at least give a person some kind of idea how your arrows are flying. Thanks for the video. I think I will stay with bare bow instinct shooting since I've done this my whole life. Will, in Gresham, Oregon, USA
The interest to shoot through a paper sheet is to see if the bow is properly tuned. If the bow shoots well, the arrow Will be shot straight, so the tear in the paper Will be clean, you Will see only the fletching. If it dont shoot straight, the shaft Will tear a line in the paper.
Hey Lilly! I'm fairly new to your channel, but I've probably watched... dozens of your vids by now. I watched one where you were kind of questioning whether UA-cam was worth it anymore and you had shared some of the bad side of the site. I'm just a random dude from Canada but I wanted to say that I love your content and I'm glad you are still making content.
I'm not sure if you'll ever fully understand all we get from your videos. What you do for us is AMAZING! Saying thank you is way to inadequate but i don't know anything better words! Thank you lady! Tim
Paper shoot tuing is good for compound bow. For recurve bow, it doesn’t very well. Because with recurve arrows flex much more than compound when they fly. The most effective way for tuning arrows for recurve bow is 'bare shaft tuning.' Shoot three fletched shaft and three bare shaft and see if they group together well enough. If bare shaft impacts left then the arrows are stiff, if to the right then the arrows are weak. If hit high, nocking point is low. If hit low, nocking point is high. Then you adjust arrows for what is required. If you shoot ILF recurve bows, you can adjust draw weight of the limbs upto some percentage of the actual draw weight of the limbs (Your bow is not ILF, so that's not an option). That makes tuning a bit easy.
Shes shooting with a release, paper tuning is fine. Compound arrows stabilize quicker than recurve arrows, but a recurve arrow will still stabilize quickly, less than 10 yards. And with a release aid they will stabilize even faster because the string is not rolling off the fingers when you release.
@@3vo408 yeah 6 ft for a compound is fine, with a recurve that arrow will still be whipping around and you will get tears even with a tuned bow. Easton knows what they are doing but I don't think you understand Easton.
@@3vo408 So youre a good shot, thats great. Not everyone is that consistent and bareshafting is just going to give you mixed results. Im not sure why you are arguing with me dude. I said paper tuning is fine, i didnt say bareshafting doesnt work. So what the fuck is your issue?
@@3vo408 She is using release aid, yes. But her arrowrest isn't as it is in compound bows. Whisker biscuit and dropway rest allows the arrows to fly very straight without that much flex. But the arrows rests which are used in recurves or if you shoot off the shelf, that is different. Paper tuning is fine, but it wouldn't be as accurate as it would be for bare shaft tuning.
@@3vo408 If paper tune does same as bare shaft tuning, why does a someone like Jake Kaminski who was an olympic archer says that it does. He said in one of his video that you get a roughly accurate tune from paper tuning which is useful but it's never gonna be as perfect as bareshaft tuning for recurve bows.
@@SaidAhmad Haha yeah, no offense to her, but I think you should pick a native speaker to learn from. But you could probably do OK just from her mostly.
Ms. Lilly, the archer's paradox is the phenomenon where the shaft of an arrow in flight oscillates. Tod's Workshop UA-cam channel has an excellent video on that subject. Another suggestion: connect a lanyard to your left wrist and the bow in such a way that if you release your grip on the bow it pivots downward. Then try shooting without wrapping your fingers around the bow but apply enough lateral pressure to keep the bow from rotating in your hand. That is how the olympic level archers shoot.
I was wondering about that. Without a high speed it's impossible to tell... Maybe shooting through paper at different distances, with the same configuration, should produce different patterns if it's due to oscillation.
Karl Schubert i guess thats a fair point. but especially in wooded place, oscillation could result hitting things like branches. (hence why brush guns use heavier caliber to minimize deviation) so straighter arrow flight could help. also straighter arrow flight means better penetration. i would depend on good penetration if im shooting with anything less than 40 lb. angled contact mean less penetration (you can see in the video that her arrows are not landing perpendicular). if shes aiming for smaller game, i think her grouping and arrows are adequate. but wouldnt hurt to aim for higher standard, no pun intended.
Karl Schubert okay, yes there is always some movement. of course arrows dont fly perfectly straight but straight enough to contain the spine wave within an inch of diameter. i only meant the word straight in more casual sense. bare shaft test obviously shows it can be plenty straight enough to ignore the wave. but with wrong spine can result some real oscillation where an arrow move as a whole move left and right. could be because of bad release, could be because of nock hitting the bow due to bad spine choice. shooting an incorrectly spined arrow 3 ft from a target will most certainly show how arrows leave the bow in an angle. if you are talking about archers paradox when you mentioned archers dilemma, it isnt that significant in this case because her bow is center cut bow. if you see spine charts for traditional bow and compound bow, you will notice that spines are usually stiffer with compound/center cut bow. thats because you do not have to worry about relying on arrows spine to shoot around your bow.
Karl Schubert nope you are incorrect. it doesnt move further than the distance from your arrow rest and inner wall of your first knuckle. thats if you have correct spine. find me a video that shows an arrow leaving a compound/center shot bow with 3-4 inch wave length.
I have archery hunted for years. You want to shoot closer to the paper so you can catch the initial movement of the arrow coming off the bow. That should help you tune your bow better. Also, if you want to get better at longer ranges, you might try shooting the longer distances right away or after a few warm up shots. I never take shots over 30 yards in the woods, most kills of mine have been in the 10-25 yard range but I practice out to 70 yards. It's the first shot that counts. Rarely will you get a second shot. Starting at longer ranges helps you to concentrate better on the first shot and shoot closer groups at longer ranges which gives you much greater confidence at shorter ranges. Either way, I love your enthusiasm and dedication to your craft. Blessings to you!
@saveyour country if you have longer arrow the dynamic spine Will be higher (more flexible) To have dynamically stiffer arrows, you can shorten the shaft or lighter the points. And reverse to have more flexible arrows.
@@wfranek1 no you didnt understood. The length that you make variing, it's the length in front of you bow. And it's about 1/2" When you shoot, you have some arrow length in front of the contact point with your bow at full draw. In theory it's 1" 3/4 according to AMO standards. But you can make it shorter or longer depending on your needs. If you cant shorten or is your arrow is to long, change the point weight and keep the arrow around the need AMO. But you Will change the FOC
@joseph germaine nope. Your draw length doesnt vary for the same bow. But you can vary the arrow length. So you dont make vary the speed of the arrow this much, because you dont make variing the draw length. That was the question.
Lilly, here is a fun exercise that I used to do a few years ago. It needs the help of an assistant. Take a round bow target (two end to end is best) and have your assistant roll the target out from behind cover. As it is passing, shoot it. I did this from the top of a shed roof. I won a few bets doing this when those came around saying it wasn't possible. Start slow, it's all about the lead the faster you get! Hope you have fun! Thanks for your content. Always knowledge there. Nice video! Keep'em coming!
The older I get, the more that I appreciate the newer compound bows with 85% let off. I congratulate you Lilly on learning and using a recurve bow. Constructive criticism: Follow-through is very important for the arrow direction and accuracy; and, something your technique is missing.
@@BonnieBlue2A Nope, just get sick of the toxic culture the archery community has of thinking there is a right way to do everything and feeling the need to enforce it on everyone, even without being asked.
She's trying to shoot a recurve like a compound bow and she's mixing up different styles and equipment without knowing the results from her efforts. She can cause injury because she doesn't know anything about kinetic energy, string twist, knocking point (although she thinks she knows knocking points and that's how she can get dangerous, with flame around tensioned string) or arrow spine. The brass knock pinched onto her serving can cause damage when used with a loop. The loop should be tight enough she doesn't need a brass knock. OH, and the release she's using can eat that loop up in about 200 cycles. Oh, and 3 inch feathers on a recurve without shoot thru capabilities?
Her accent sounds German. They have a different philosophy about Wooded areas. On the upside, their limited amount encourages conservation. On the downside, the "beauty" you see is actually more Park than Forest. Forests are self-sustainable and have thrived without help from man for centuries. Parks are less so. They might look appealing to people but they are actually food deserts for critters AND trees and other life. While a forest WILL burn more readily in dry conditions, it IS a natural, renewable process if man were nowhere to be found. IRONICALLY, a forest takes longer than a Park to dry out. The leaves and other dead organic matter protect the moisture in the soil for far longer.
@Bow Brothers archers paradox is because of the compression of the arrow from the force of the string release, not because of type of release. It can be reduced for sure, though, by various means. See Smarter Every Day's video on it.
Hmmmm, I've paper tuned compound bows for many years, usually starting by stepping only 1-2 steps away from the paper. I don't see much benefit shooting through paper over 3-5m away. Given the set up, though it's hard to say what to even try. If you're shooting off the shelf, then you're definitely having contact.....sort of unavoidable. Early in the video I can visually see the arrow come off tail high. Things to consider: Minimize or eliminate vane contact (people used to use spray foot powder to check) Larger vanes stabilize an arrow quicker, but will sacrifice speed. Cutting arrows makes them stiffer. Shooting with a lighter tip, makes an arrow stiffer and changes front-of-center (FOC) Higher FOC will make an arrow stabilize faster (I shoot around 12% FOC out of compounds) Try a couple of different spines......and lengths Check for nock pinch at the D loop and brass nock......notorious for tail high shots Nocks that fit very tightly to the bowstring......are terrible and will cause their own problems. You want to know what the arrow is doing coming off the bow, not at the target.......
Yep that's the usual procedure. Close in at exact measured distance to eliminate error as much as possible. It's hard to get a perfect pinhole paper tune without a plunger adjustment.
If your shooting with sights and release , go ahead and add adjustable rest , that’s the only way you will ever tune that bow . Oh , shoot the paper at 2 meters , paper at same height of bow and level . Try it , you will see what I’m talking about .
Normally a low right tear means too stiff spine or too light point. Also tear is subject to distance from bow. Because of archers paradox, your tear will normally move left and right as you move closer to or further from paper. I was always taught to keep the paper close to the bow, within 3 to 5 feet, to see how the arrow is coming off the bow. this is where you will see the most arrow movement, not down range where the feathers have straightened out a lot of the arrow flight. Here is a most valuable tuning trick I use. Spray your rest and riser window with white foot powder. This will show if your arrow is contacting the riser or plowing into the rest and is easily wiped off when finished tuning. I have many other tips if this helps you. Best of luck, JT
Lilly, You are fascinating and so knowledgeable about the outdoors. I'm impressed by your English. How many languages do you speak? Great videos, keep it up!
@@Corinthians-kjv i was using an over draw in the early 90s, over draws sets the arrow rest further back nearer to the string. This allows you to shorten your arrows to an extreme. My setup shoots a 15 1/2 inch arrow. These arrows travel very fast, having almost no drop at 20-25 meters, with a 90 pound draw. over draws have been around since the mid 80s i believe, by the end of the 80s they were available almost anywhere you could buy arrows. Mine was hand made by a German friend of mine who owns a motorcycle repair shop and had the tools and time to build something from my design. (they are actually easy to make) The rest of my setup uses no sights, (i actually use my knuckle as a sight once the range gets over 40 meters. i also use a broad braided band around my hand attached to the bow which allows me to not grip the bow at all, my hand is literally completely open, this allows for no twist to the bow as the arrow is released, the bow just falls forward slowly. I also shoot american Indian style, from the eye, with three fingers under the knocked arrow with a haired tab. I did fairly well across Germany in NFAA tournaments late 80s early 90s. I still have that bow and the complete setup.
Hi Lilly, I hope you are getting better groups. Idk if you know this stuff but the shorter the arrow the stiffer the spine, same with the heads. The less they weigh the stiffer your spine, also adding more things to the string slows the speed. So adding that peep sight, & D loop scrubs speed off of the bow. Your brace hight can make a big difference in arrow flight also. Some people adjust brace hight for noise & some for better arrow flight. The type of string material makes a big difference too, B-50 Dacron is slower than Fast Flight & Dyna Flight is even faster still. Arrow material is always very important. Carbon is much faster than aluminum, & aluminum is faster than wood. Also the longer your fletching the more stable the arrow is in flight, I always use 5 inch shield cut fletching for that reason. If you are hunting with it the heavier the arrow the better the penetration. I don’t recommend changing strings though, it’s a good way to split your limbs. Also Samick bows aren’t the highest of quality & the limbs are known for excessive oscillation at lighter draw weights. I hope this info is of use to you. Happy shooting. Trent. p.s. All that extra stuff ( i.e. peeps, pins, releases, D loops) only really works on compounds & crossbows. Longbows & Recurves have a soul to them a warmth, almost alive. They all like to be shot the old way. Hands on, leather glove, with your finger always anchoring at the corner of your mouth, & your bow hand very loosely holding the bow your fingers should be almost dangling. And most importantly do it the same way every single time! 😉
I also love that you have a cheap takedown bow with an expensive sight and you shoot with a trigger. I just prefer bare bow, but I use whisker bisquits for arrow rests, but you are out and shooting, so more power to the way you like to shoot.
Hello, “Tuning” a bow can be a confusing process, but I’ll try to help a little. 1. When paper tuning, the arrow should be parallel with the ground. In other words, you should not be shooting at an up or down angle at the paper. You will often get false readings of high nock when shooting down and low nock when shooting upward. Get a helper to set a bubble level on your arrow shaft while at full draw to assure you are shooting parallel to the surface of the earth. 2. Websites such as Easton have spine calculators wherein you can add your draw length, arrow length, draw weight, type of bow (compound or traditional) and point weight. Arrow length, draw weight and point weight all dramatically affect the arrow’s spine (stiffness). 3. The paper should only be 10 to fifteen feet from the bow for a more accurate interpretation of arrow flight. 4. I have found bare shaft testing very revealing in making bow adjustments. Once again, the arrow should be level with the ground. Shoot a number of arrows into a good (not heavily used) target block and observe the angles of the arrows with respect to one another. Address up/down nock adjustment first. When all shafts strike the target parallel with one another, then right left issues can be addressed. With the compound bow, moving the arrow rest right or left will correct these issues. With the traditional bow, fishtailing is addressed with spine adjustments using different weight points or shaft sizes. Most of these tuning issues are addressed in numerous on-line articles easily found. Good luck and remember to always have fun!
You're the only person I know besides myself who uses a caliper release for a takedown recurve bow. I don't always use it but find that it makes my aim much better whenever I do. Same goes for fall away arrow rest. I don't use a sight, but those two I find to be incredibly useful. "Traditionalists" can kiss my behind. Screw haters, - you go girl!!
This test of the arrows was very interesting. I never knew that the flight of the arrow could be determined and adjusted. And it can be done with something as simple as a piece of paper. Clever, and well done!
@Karl Schubert I disagree. I believe that every detail matters in, and affects, flight. There's a good paper called The Mechanics of Arrow Flight Upon Release that I find interesting. Here is the link in case you are interested: www.ocf.berkeley.edu/~archery/wp-content/uploads/docs/knsu.pdf. Here is another, called Physics of Archery: www.real-world-physics-problems.com/physics-of-archery.html. The more aspects of arrow release and flight that Lilly can adjust, the closer she will be to her goal. The Archer's Paradox is a very interesting phenomenon.
@Karl Schubert umm it matters a lot with accuracy especially at distance. You want your arrows firing bullet holes in the paper. This is called paper tuning, lots of people then go into bareshaft tuning which is an arrow with out fletching, same concept, but it is basically super tuning. If you can get these arrows flying straight off the bow your accuracy will improve and groups will tighten at longer distance. A lot of archers shoot regularly at 100 yds (90ms give or take) or further distances as it tightens your groups up at closer ranges. If you didn't do all this tuning, you would never stand a chance. IF she really wants to start putting the time in the arrows themselves can be tuned as well and the fletching done to be in the optimal position (basically nock tuning the arrow, or having a shop find the spine of the arrow to put the cock feather on)
I like your methodical approach to attain perfect flight for accurate grouping. I wanted to ask if you plan to do any hunting with your bow this fall. I've enjoyed watching all of your videos Lilly. Your pup is growing and filling out beautifully. Thanks for your videos always.
Hunting with bow and arrow is forbidden in Austria, Germany and all western Europe! To go hunting in Austria or Germany you need to take a difficult and expensive test and there is NO public hunting area in Austria or Germany!
That little point about moving your left hand made me chuckle. I’m currently learning kyudo after doing archery for years and my bad habit for kyudo is that I don’t move my hands enough lol.
Meanwhile me at 6 years old: Finds a semi straight stick, yoinks moms laundry line to hang clothes upon and builds a VERY crude bow, find semi straight sticks on the ground and launch them about 2-3 meters flying sideways xD
As far as I knew - all arrows fly in a Helixical path, and that you could tighten the helix by increasing the rotation/spin of the arrow with special flights (feathers). So if arrows have a spiral path, you really should do the paper test at a selection of ranges - you should see a slightly different tip/knock impact offset angle at each range to describe the helixical path. At least you're using a trigger, so you won't have the "release flick" issues that we used to have back in my day!
Lilly.......I was a novice archer and shot at Halls Archery range in Glastonbury CT. I started with a PSA Bow at about 60 lbs. as I progressed I switched to a much smaller Matthews MS? bow. My bow was set up by Butch Johnson their bow mechanic. One of the adjustments was arrow flight. Butch shot my bow through paper with the paper only about 3 to 4 feet from the bow. The tears through the paper showed the straightness of the arrow path through the paper. The fletch cut on the paper was off because the cuts in the paler were very uneven and not centered. Butch knew what adjustment to make to move the noch position to move the rear of the arrow and the. Paper cuts to where they were perfectly centered around the shaft hole. I.’m sure you will know what I mean. I don’t know which way did what but you will know. Butch was on the US team for the 1980 summer Olympics. ( hope my date is correct). and tuned the bows for the entire US team. If you called Halls Archery Butch is possibly still setting up bows and would advise you on how to proceed. The Halls and Butch were a credit tonArchery. I believe both father and son Halls shot in the Olympics. This was all taking place close to 40 years ago. At 85, and with 4 rotator tears, I cannot pull the little Matthews bow. I have given the whole kit to a grand daughter who loves to hunt. And has only hunted rifle for deer and shotgun for Canada geese. Both successfully. You remind me of her. She was a JUnior Olympics swimmer until she aged out but she is a strong girl and now studying to be a Nurse. Nice video, nice range, I will watch for more. Thus was the first I have found. Good luck to you JoeB
thanks lilly great video , the joys of archery 😊 love it . heavy spines lighter spines stiffer spines flexible spines thinner spines , heavier tips lighter tips shorter fletches narrower fletches fatter fletches longer pheeerrr . thinner longer shorter nocks . then sights theres a lot of tuning to be done without silencing and vibration reducing . every single part eventually gets customised as your considtency increases . always a work in progress .10/10
There’s more to it than that. Everything travels in a wave of some sort. Literally everything. Even if it’s on a constrained track, it will have a longitudinal wave affecting its snapshot velocity. With a straight bow stave, the simplest wave will appear readily through the spine of the arrow (the archers paradox) plus rotational via the manner of release, the notch’s grip on the string, and the flights. The more one tunes each of these factors to approach zero, other subtle factors will come into play to inspire wave-forms. Such as the wind, breathing of the archer, ionisation of the atmosphere, magnetic and electrostatic fields, gravitational fields, the coriolis effect and so on and so on. I would have been shocked had she produced perfect holes, but still expect that to change if she’d increased or decreased her range to the target.
That was my understanding. All arrows wobble as they fly, and depending on what point in the oscillation the arrow enters the paper, you could have a large tear or a small tear. She's acting like this is something that can be eliminated, which is false. It can be minimized, sure. And, depending on where you place the paper, it can appear like you've eliminated the wobble. We should really be judging the archery and arrows on the only metric that matters, "can you accurately hit a target at different distances, in different conditions, consistently?" If yes, the paper test is completely useless.
@@mstandenberg1421 makes no sense for my understanding. She tries to eliminate the fingertip swing by using a D-tip. The release impact swing may be influenced by a lighter or heavier tip, and at the same time she „speeds up“ what actually means „slow down less“ by shortening the feathers. An arrow swings. Maybe the way she pulls the arrows out of the target at the beginning weakens the material. She cuts the arrow length more than I think it makes sense after a handle change. Instead of changing one parameter after the other she creates a Frankenstein-setup by changing everything. The paper nonsens would make sense with five or six sheets in two or three changing positions to find out the min-max of the altitudes position(s), not only an arrow length at a randomly position. Without the fingertip impulse at release moment the arrow swing starts also randomly, not by rolling the string over the fingertips with a little (but defined) angular momentum to the left. I tried this all 25ys ago :-)
@@mikhail_roberts Completely missing the point. All arrows wobble but some arrows wobble more than other arrows. The more you try to flatten the wobble the more accurate it will be. One of the bigger factor is flexibility of the spine and the second is the draw strength. If you shoot a arrow that is made of ceramic or glass arrow for example, there is no wobble whatsoever. But if you shoot it with heavy draw ceramic arrow might break in the middle of flight.
I enjoyed shooting recurve, and, compound bows for many years, until age caught up to me. I thoroughly enjoyed watching you work through your problems. Shooting paper was almost always frustrating to me. I don't think I ever got it ideal, but, resigned myself to be satisfied that I could hit where I was aiming. You appear to be doing amazingly well.It's a pleasure to watch you shoot. Your love of the bow, and, self-awareness, instinctively wills the arrow home... Great video.
I really like these videos. They are interesting and informative, and it takes me back. You see, I used to be an archerer like you, but then I took an arrow to the knee.
Your groupings will improve with practice as muscles grow stronger to reduce the pull to the left. Knowing that you tend to move after the release is the first hurdle in damping that effect. Shooting in lower pressure also helps develop your accommodation to the release effect you are getting with the attempts at longer distance. Love your channel and will be looking at more of your content in the coming days. Very well done and I love your range set up!
Biggest issue is that when you use a mechanical release on a D loop the arrow naturally oscillates on a vertical plane. When used with a recurve bow with a finger type rest the arrows will not oscillate horizontally so you cannot plunger tune for riser clearance. So in archery science you are mixing principles between two styles of equipment. You either want to shoot release through a vertically sprung rest ie moves down or you want to shoot fingers across the flapper with a plunger style tuner. We also typically paper tune with bare arrows (no feathers) to see what the shafts are doing with out the stability provided by the fletchings. Tuned to that then it is hyperstable with fletches.
Come on, don't tell us that you spend 100% of your time doing nothing other than working. If it's the case, maybe you have a real organization problem...
Churning out 2-3 videos every week, coming up with interesting ideas for next video, setting up camera, lighting, location for each footage, editing hours and hours of footage. Trying to stay relevant on UA-cam. Phew! I think that's a lot of work.
There is a reason why bows were used for war in ancient times. They are like bullets. I have tried shooting arrows as practice too. You need lots of strength in the arm to shoot the arrow. If you shoot down, arrows can go through thick soil. Arrows get stuck in the ground and it is hard to pull them out. Think of Excalibur with arrows. Scary.
Just don't worship it. Lol. 🐺To all: please come to the real Jesus Christ before it's too late. I know for a fact Jesus, heaven and hell are real. Jesus is the only way to be saved. Jesus loves you. 😇✝️🛐. Jesus may return soon.
When you went from 20 meters to 25 meters, you were anticipating the shot and hesitated. It looks like you were nervous or out of your comfort zone. There are a lot of techniques you could learn to help you overcome that. Locking your finger over the trigger and using your scapular muscles to draw your arm back target than squeezing or pulling the trigger, will give you a much more consistent release. Back tension or thumb releases assist with that also. Anyway, archery is much more complicated than people think and it definitely pays off to continually educate yourself, if you want to exponentially improve your accuracy and the arrow's performance. Arrows should be set up in accordance with what your goal is. A hunting arrow is far different than a target arrow that's designed for shooting paper in foam. Troy (The Ranch Fairy) has a lot of videos on "adult arrows," which applies kinetic physics to arrow design and tuning wth the intent of killing large game.
Click here to watch part 2 of this series: ua-cam.com/video/mg5HPfJSwQg/v-deo.html
Here are my bow parts. Bow is not available on amazon but the other gadgets are.
22 $ Compound Bow Sight: amzn.to/3nDplQn
10$ Peep: amzn.to/30Xel6F
15$ Release: amzn.to/3lDTKwf
150-200$ Bow: Samick SHT
I still have my browning wasp . I won it in a raffle in 1976
The nocked end of the arrow will leave the string at the same place every shot , thus you have to place the arrow point in line with the nocked end of the arrow . I see it that it’s a budget build , but the arrow needs to fly straight , to achieve it’s maximum potential .
Lilly is channeling her inner Lara Croft.
They shore is some nice beaver in that there area😇
I love your style and effort you put into shooting. I shoot a compound bow and have for 30 plus years. I really appreciate all the effort you put into shooting more accurately! I never calculated a shot that much and wish I would have looking back. I have shot numerous deer and if your ever heading to the Great USA for a deer hunt I would love to host you!
I would set everything up and promise you a great hunt. I am in Nebraska and have thousands of acres to hunt. We have very nice, large whitetail deer here and I know this would never happen but wanted to let you know if you ever wanted to hunt 200# plus whitetail deer we have them here and I can promise you a great hunt.
Great video and great effort in your practice to shoot accurately and better.
I had a Mundsterlander she was the best hunting dog ever. She was 15 before I had to put her down one of the saddest days ever for me and the kids. She was a member of our family and you are so lucky to have Amy with you.
Keep up the great videos and archery shooting and techniques!
Thanks
Tony
I did archery from 7 through 19 and got busy and forgot about it. I'm 60 now and getting back into it. It's never too late to enjoy archery. Your videos are very encouraging.
Can’t shoot bows due to injuries. But at 46, I bought a compound bow just cause I could. (Such a fool I didn’t realise I couldn’t adjust the 65 pound draw without chafing strings. I have a steel plate in my neck. Makes a damn good garage piece ;)
@@DessieTots You are a fan of history.
I am 65 with no eyesight in left eye and fairly good vision in right eye. I am right handed with forests on two sides of me. Is this a hobby worth tackling? Also have a baby grand piano that I haven’t a clue how to play. In your opinion, would I be wasting my time learning how to play, or learning how to play in the woods?
@@stephenlongstreet8305 Do what you enjoy. Life is never long enough.
Don’t know a thing about bow and arrow, but I found this fascinating. I had no idea what is involved to make an arrow fly straight. Thank you Lily. Much respect.
Honestly, this is overthinking the entire process.
I have been an Archer for 5 years now, mainly compound bow. You are very good and your grouping at 25 yards with a 35 pound take down now was very good indeed, your understanding of archery is excellent. David.x
The arrows do have a natural oscilation. Smarter every day has a episode called Archers paradox.
But much much less with a compound bow like the one she uses (also in the smarter everday video :) )
@@wljay She's using a recurve, not a compound.
@@ex-nerd oh nice, does a recurve arrows shoot around the bow or straight like a compound?
"Around" I suppose. But that has less to do with the type of bow than the construction of a specific bow. Not all compound bows have an arrow path straight through the center of the bow, and I suppose you could build a recurve out of strong modern materials that would allow an arrow rest in the center.
Fully agree, the size of the hole depends on the arrow's stiffness and not the size of the feather. (of course, the shooting style is changing the oscillation as inso80 mentioned)
I've shot archery for years, first thing I see is your knock point and rest don't appear to be level at full draw. This will cause vertical wag in the arrows during flight. Second, for a true "paper" test, the paper needs to be at same hight as the bow. The paper itself adds friction and if not level with the bow can cause minor wag. This appears to be the biggest things causing the offline tear. Your form and release look great and only need minor adjustments that will improve with practice and experience. Hope this helps. Great videos, love your channel.
Neat 🏹
@jamonit joe You would be impressed by the accuracy of a 25# bow in the right hands.
@Dorian Grey ever use a site on a recurve bow? I had never seen it before and have years at the range.
@Dorian Grey last time I was at a range was 6-7 years ago. I shoot in my back yard and 6 years ago I was going every week and never saw it. Thanks for the heads up!
@Dorian Grey wood is great on a recurve bow. I had shot them in my youth many years ago and have been shooting a recurve since I bought my first compound bow when I was 13. A whitetail hunter for $20 last one they had and they were getting out of archery and it had been in the store for 6 months and was a lefty for me. I still have it over 40 years later. I now shoot a Hoyt Katera lefty 70#
And I am shooting out to 40-45 with deadly accuracy.
Love archery
Friendly comment here:
A bow needs to be "tuned" in order to shoot properly. Shooting through paper will tell you if you need a stiffer shaft, different grain tip Etc.
The arrow should match your draw length and the fetching need not be trimmed down. Shaft diameter and wall thickness will determine the correct shaft for your Bow. Then work with different grain tips.
What you say is technically true. However, I would argue against the need to do so with a basic recurve much past getting some arrows with the correct spine for your draw weight. With all that stuff she has on her bow, she might as well shoot compound and enjoy the increased efficiency and accuracy.
When I clicked on this video I didn’t expect to learn so much about archery. I have shot both recurve and compound bows and I applaud you for putting sights on a a recurve bow and using a release and showing the increase in accuracy both provide.
I think she does a fabulous job and is very educated... everyone is different in there approach... different body type ect.
I make and shoot Traditional hand made bows and arrows tuned to “about right” with no sites or shooting aids.......this set up has been feeding families for over 10,000 years....not sure if absolute perfection is necessary for me but I sure appreciate the insights!
Mind you.... I had to shoots thousands of arrows over a few seasons to get good enough to bring home meat.....and I am sure a modern bow with sites and good tuning would shorten that time substantially!.....what I love about archers is the willingness to share our body of knowledge with one another.🏹🏹 Thanks Lilly.
Okay, youtube randomly gave me this video and I don't even know where to begin.
First of all this is a great bow, but specifically I like it because it doesn't look like those overcomplicated modern composite bows, but isn't a basic simple one either and still uses modern technology.
Second, I've never seen such quiver, hell, I've never even thought of an idea of a multi-sectioned quiver.
And third, it is always great, when a person not only uses something, but thinks how to improve it and can actually do this too.
And I just love archery. Just because.
The overcomplicated modern bows can help you do things like easily shoot decent groups at 30 or 40 meters though - they do serve a purpose. And if you're using a bow for hunting instead of just target shooting, the ability to have a decent draw weight but have it let off at the back of the draw is amazingly helpful. I'm not saying it's impossible to hunt with a more traditional bow in any way shape or form, just that a compound bow makes life easier, especially if you don't have the time to spend every night in a tree or less than great hunting habitat.
@@jasonpatterson8091 that is right. Difficult to be impressed by grouping of this shooter
She just has a bad technique
When paper tuning you need to shoot straight not in a downward angle.. raise your paper target so you are not in a down ward angle. and use a thinner paper.
David Mansplainer
Why thinner paper?
@@chumleyk ikr, never offer advice to a female, that's sexis. Let them find their own way.
@@chumleyk Take your identity politics garbage and gtfo.
@@chumleyk Ah. The instant expert that doesn't want to know the correct way of doing it, or why.
Shooting a recurve with a release aid changes the way that the arrow react at release. Basically they no longer go around the riser like they do when you shoot from your fingers. The string travel is not the same as a finger release (it is more linear back to bow) so the arrow reacts more like they do out of a compound bow with the flex being more up and down. Arrows tend to stay with the point left of the feathers because they don't bend around the riser like they normally would.
Because of the more up and down bend, arrows shot this way also tend to smack down hard on the shelf then flying tail high just after the release. They tend to porpoise for quite a while before the feather can stabilize them. Putting a whisker biscuit or other compound style rest can make it easier to set up a workable nocking point.
Great comment
What kind of quiver is that? One for explosives, one for armour-piercing, one for hollow-point?
ROFL!! She made that herself. There is a video on it. She wanted a quiver where the arrows didn't rattle as she walked through the woods.
It reminds me of a duck foot
I guess it makes sense. Why carry around a dozen or a score of arrows if you don't need them, lol.
If you miss your first shot you probably won't get another anyhow, more ammo won't help.
If you wound a target you probably won't need more than one more shot to finish it, more ammo won't help.
Then again ... there's always stories with the shooter who brings a seven-shot revolver to the gunfight ...
Those look like 3 sewage pipes. Betting that's exactly what they are.
I don't think we're gonna get the velocity for optimal hollow-point expansion, lol. You're probably gonna want a broadhead or expandable point. 🤓
As an archer I’ve noticed that you drop your bow arm very quickly after release. This causes arrows to hit low if they’ve not completely cleared the bow before you lower your arm. Holding your form for a couple of seconds longer will help with this.
i think nshe knows more than you, her targets are perfect
As an Archer myself, she knows what she's doing. Doesn't matter where the arrow lands, what matters is consistency. You can always adjust where they land after. Her groupings were fairly tight.
In the video, you can see release in one frame, arrow underway in the next, bow moved in the next. I'm not sure what the frame rate is, but it must be faster than 20 fps. So she's dropping the bow some time in the 50 ms after the arrow clears.
It's quite a lot of motion, too. It appears the bow is getting significant acceleration downward. Is it reacting against the arrow?
Hey Lilly, Check the grip on your front hand. If you are squeezing the grip it could be Torqueing the bow just a slight amount in the first micro seconds after release. Try this grip - When you draw back, actually just hold the bow in the notch between your index (pointer) finger and thumb. Barely reach around the bow with your index finger and just tap the tip of your thumb. Keep your other fingers off the grip completely! This will prevent you from applying torque to the bow. If that doesn’t fix this, I would closely at your arrow rest. Consider a drop away rest; I’m a big fan of the QAD rest. Drop away rest completely drops out of the way before the fletching passes the brace.
I have to agree, i watched the conversation about heads with surprise : The posture matters a lot, especially with this kind of angle. If you don't keep your arm steady when you release the arrow drops.
Mansplaining level 1000. grats. Her opening 3 groupings were half an inch, once she set her sight it was all bullseyes.
The reason for the feathers hitting down n to the right is the same thing she said about her release causing the leftward grouping at 25m. Givin enough flight distance the downward right lean to her release causes a leftward flight. Changing her forward grip is correct and not mansplaining. It's archersplaining.
@@The-Dom "Mansplaining" - a made up, bullshit, psychobabble term used to denigrate men. Kudos to you for being so susceptible to social engineering.
@@vijabe All words are made up. Sorry your feelings got hurt.
Lilly, rest your bow in the "V" of your bow hand. Loosely... don't "Crush" the grip. Let the bow rattle in your bow hand. It will help you keep from torquing your bow. Also. Spine weight of your arrows will affect left and right "Waggle". Noch point on your string will affect up and down waggle. Also keep your bow arm up and on target after you shoot, it will help with your accuracy.
Just a quick follow up. If you can find it you should pick up a copy of "The Bowhunter's Bible".
@@bushweasel actually that's only true in Mediterranean grip.
If you hold the bow properly and nock against index finger and string, using your thumb to hold the string and set the arrow against the bow and thumb of your bow hand, you completely eliminate the archers paradox.
It's how the Japanese shoot yumi, it's also much faster and more accurate.
@@sarchlalaith8836 using a release aid reduces it, but she is still using a recurve bow which is not cut to/past center and supports the arrow on its side.
That unavoidable introduces a "sidewobble".
Blimey. Is there anything you DON'T know about archery?
I agree. Loosely in the bow hand. I use a wrist strap so I dont close my hand at all. When I shoot the bow fall forward away from me and the strap keeps me from dropping the bow.
Lilly, for what its worth coming from me. I did some research and spoke to a buddy of mine that shoots archery after watching your video. The thing my buddy said is that it may not be the weight of your arrow. You may need to move your rest 1/32 to the left and/or you may be shooting too light of an arrow. Great video as always. I hope you are doing well.
If you could get a high speed camera like the slo-mo guys, you could get a really clear view of how your arrows are flying. They have a fantastic video where they have a master archer show what happens when he shoots an arrow - it's amazing how much they wobble, and how important that wobble is.
Agree I don’t think it’s the arrow flying sideways it’s the oscillation that all arrows have.
@@Syrusoo archers paradox - smarter every day did a vid on it . i've also noticed with the new arrows with plastic fletching they don't go over the rest as smooth as real feathers . regardless , you're doing pretty good . the paper ? i think at varying distances the wobble will indicate differently sort of like throwing a knife is at a diff. rotation at diff. distances . wanna check out some crazy archery look up lars anderson ( if my memory is right , it's been a while )
@@mrwascallyt9865 came here to say this archers paradox and Lars is an absolute boss i can only hope to be half as good as he is with a bow
The thing about the archer's paradox wobble is that it's a horizontal wobble. Vertical deviations would be due to either vertical wobble or the arrow flying with a pitch angle not equal to 0. I'm no expert on the matter but I can't think of any reason why an arrow shouldn't remain almost entirely stable on the vertical axis, just something to consider.
Those cameras are really expensive though.
The one thing that stuck with me from reading Chuck Adams books decades ago, consistently accurate bows are properly tuned with properly tuned arrows. I learned paper tuning from him and more about fish tailing and porpousing than I'll ever remember. When you get this dialed in, you won't be able to shoot two arrows at the same bullseye anymore. At least not without breaking something 🙂
Here is a real feminist, and not those creatures who complain about harassment, demand money and do not know how to do anything !
The archer's paradox is the phenomenon of an arrow traveling in the direction it is pointed at full draw, when it seems that the arrow would have to pass through the starting position it was in before being drawn, where it was pointed to the side of the target.
The bending of the arrow when released is the explanation for why the paradox occurs and should not be confused with the paradox itself.
Love the doggie laying on the bench at the end.
I'm a big fan of the doggie as well.
Is it a kleine Munsterlander? I have a grosse Munsterlander and just found your channel, my dog insisted I subscribe :) I do a little archery aswell though ;)
Knew there was a doggie before that heard it whimpering for attention at 4:50
As someone who has tuned Compound and Traditional bows for decades, since you're shooting off a plastic rest, I recommend bareshaft
tuning as opposed to paper tuning. Also, you can just shoot at 20 or 25 M with feathered arrows to see which point weight gives you the tighest
groups.
You have to be pretty consistent to bareshaft. Shes not shooting a compound.
@@Lost_Hwasal Bareshaft tuning is preferred for recurves, especially Olympic Recurves,
@@blainclatworthy5423 Yes, if you are really good. Otherwise its a waste of time and really it accomplishes the same thing as paper tuning.
@@Lost_Hwasal Bareshaft tuning is performed at 20 yds or further, since you're shooting fingers. Not a release!
@@blainclatworthy5423 Not sure what your point is, compound archers bareshaft as well.
That bow is beautiful *-*
Stunning.
Old bare bow archer here. I've been shooting ever since I was about 8 years old mostly because my parents wouldn't let me hunt with a bb gun at that age until I was 10. I just stayed with the archery because I got better at it and enjoyed it more than shooting with bb gun. I left archery when I got my first 22lr at 12 years and only picked it up again at age 21 to hunt deer. Ever since then I have hunt archery season almost every year if I could. I am now 72 and have to tune in a new bow because my old one was stolen. I give you all this background to first tell you I have never shot with sites or trigger release. This year I am going to try a thumb release to see how I like it. Since watching your video I also want to test my arrow flight using paper targets. Seems like a pretty good way to at least give a person some kind of idea how your arrows are flying. Thanks for the video. I think I will stay with bare bow instinct shooting since I've done this my whole life. Will, in Gresham, Oregon, USA
A question that has puzzled humankind for centuries.
Treating the title as a question I was like, it makes a hole, so I was drawn to see if there was an answer I was missing.
All the best for language learning, its a hard slow task i feel is underrated.
The interest to shoot through a paper sheet is to see if the bow is properly tuned. If the bow shoots well, the arrow Will be shot straight, so the tear in the paper Will be clean, you Will see only the fletching. If it dont shoot straight, the shaft Will tear a line in the paper.
@@benji280792 So I hear, no idea where I got that information though it just came to me out of the blue somehow.
@@wmlongboard It is hard, even though I was born in England it took me a couple of years to get to speak in sentences.
i think most of us were, and it worked.
Hey Lilly! I'm fairly new to your channel, but I've probably watched... dozens of your vids by now. I watched one where you were kind of questioning whether UA-cam was worth it anymore and you had shared some of the bad side of the site. I'm just a random dude from Canada but I wanted to say that I love your content and I'm glad you are still making content.
I'm not sure if you'll ever fully understand all we get from your videos. What you do for us is AMAZING! Saying thank you is way to inadequate but i don't know anything better words! Thank you lady! Tim
"In the wilderness with my bow..." That was very funny.
Was it?
It was?
Paper shoot tuing is good for compound bow. For recurve bow, it doesn’t very well. Because with recurve arrows flex much more than compound when they fly. The most effective way for tuning arrows for recurve bow is 'bare shaft tuning.' Shoot three fletched shaft and three bare shaft and see if they group together well enough. If bare shaft impacts left then the arrows are stiff, if to the right then the arrows are weak. If hit high, nocking point is low. If hit low, nocking point is high. Then you adjust arrows for what is required.
If you shoot ILF recurve bows, you can adjust draw weight of the limbs upto some percentage of the actual draw weight of the limbs (Your bow is not ILF, so that's not an option). That makes tuning a bit easy.
Shes shooting with a release, paper tuning is fine. Compound arrows stabilize quicker than recurve arrows, but a recurve arrow will still stabilize quickly, less than 10 yards. And with a release aid they will stabilize even faster because the string is not rolling off the fingers when you release.
@@3vo408 yeah 6 ft for a compound is fine, with a recurve that arrow will still be whipping around and you will get tears even with a tuned bow. Easton knows what they are doing but I don't think you understand Easton.
@@3vo408 So youre a good shot, thats great. Not everyone is that consistent and bareshafting is just going to give you mixed results. Im not sure why you are arguing with me dude. I said paper tuning is fine, i didnt say bareshafting doesnt work. So what the fuck is your issue?
@@3vo408 She is using release aid, yes. But her arrowrest isn't as it is in compound bows. Whisker biscuit and dropway rest allows the arrows to fly very straight without that much flex. But the arrows rests which are used in recurves or if you shoot off the shelf, that is different. Paper tuning is fine, but it wouldn't be as accurate as it would be for bare shaft tuning.
@@3vo408 If paper tune does same as bare shaft tuning, why does a someone like Jake Kaminski who was an olympic archer says that it does. He said in one of his video that you get a roughly accurate tune from paper tuning which is useful but it's never gonna be as perfect as bareshaft tuning for recurve bows.
I am from Russia, and I studying English with this channel.
I am from Moscow.
In Russia now isn't very cold. Something like 12 degrees.
@oooo78 Russian is very beautiful language.
Гай Монтэг OK, not to be mean to Lily, but (now I’m going to be mean to Lily), you’ll never learn to pronounce your TH listening to our girl...
@@SaidAhmad Haha yeah, no offense to her, but I think you should pick a native speaker to learn from. But you could probably do OK just from her mostly.
Ms. Lilly, the archer's paradox is the phenomenon where the shaft of an arrow in flight oscillates. Tod's Workshop UA-cam channel has an excellent video on that subject. Another suggestion: connect a lanyard to your left wrist and the bow in such a way that if you release your grip on the bow it pivots downward. Then try shooting without wrapping your fingers around the bow but apply enough lateral pressure to keep the bow from rotating in your hand. That is how the olympic level archers shoot.
I was wondering about that. Without a high speed it's impossible to tell... Maybe shooting through paper at different distances, with the same configuration, should produce different patterns if it's due to oscillation.
oscillation is the result of the paradox, not the paradox itself.
Karl Schubert i guess thats a fair point. but especially in wooded place, oscillation could result hitting things like branches. (hence why brush guns use heavier caliber to minimize deviation)
so straighter arrow flight could help.
also straighter arrow flight means better penetration. i would depend on good penetration if im shooting with anything less than 40 lb. angled contact mean less penetration (you can see in the video that her arrows are not landing perpendicular).
if shes aiming for smaller game, i think her grouping and arrows are adequate. but wouldnt hurt to aim for higher standard, no pun intended.
Karl Schubert
okay, yes there is always some movement. of course arrows dont fly perfectly straight but straight enough to contain the spine wave within an inch of diameter. i only meant the word straight in more casual sense. bare shaft test obviously shows it can be plenty straight enough to ignore the wave.
but with wrong spine can result some real oscillation where an arrow move as a whole move left and right. could be because of bad release, could be because of nock hitting the bow due to bad spine choice. shooting an incorrectly spined arrow 3 ft from a target will most certainly show how arrows leave the bow in an angle. if you are talking about archers paradox when you mentioned archers dilemma, it isnt that significant in this case because her bow is center cut bow. if you see spine charts for traditional bow and compound bow, you will notice that spines are usually stiffer with compound/center cut bow. thats because you do not have to worry about relying on arrows spine to shoot around your bow.
Karl Schubert
nope you are incorrect. it doesnt move further than the distance from your arrow rest and inner wall of your first knuckle. thats if you have correct spine. find me a video that shows an arrow leaving a compound/center shot bow with 3-4 inch wave length.
I have archery hunted for years. You want to shoot closer to the paper so you can catch the initial movement of the arrow coming off the bow. That should help you tune your bow better. Also, if you want to get better at longer ranges, you might try shooting the longer distances right away or after a few warm up shots. I never take shots over 30 yards in the woods, most kills of mine have been in the 10-25 yard range but I practice out to 70 yards. It's the first shot that counts. Rarely will you get a second shot. Starting at longer ranges helps you to concentrate better on the first shot and shoot closer groups at longer ranges which gives you much greater confidence at shorter ranges. Either way, I love your enthusiasm and dedication to your craft. Blessings to you!
This was more entertaining than I expected it to be, good video!
Lilly I am always impressed of your shooting skills. I like all your survial and bushcraft vids.
Shortening your arrow increases overall stiffness.
@saveyour country if you have longer arrow the dynamic spine Will be higher (more flexible)
To have dynamically stiffer arrows, you can shorten the shaft or lighter the points. And reverse to have more flexible arrows.
But doesn't it decrease starting speed of arrow? After all with shorter arrow its impossible to pull string as far
@@wfranek1 no you didnt understood. The length that you make variing, it's the length in front of you bow. And it's about 1/2"
When you shoot, you have some arrow length in front of the contact point with your bow at full draw. In theory it's 1" 3/4 according to AMO standards. But you can make it shorter or longer depending on your needs.
If you cant shorten or is your arrow is to long, change the point weight and keep the arrow around the need AMO. But you Will change the FOC
@joseph germaine nope.
Your draw length doesnt vary for the same bow. But you can vary the arrow length. So you dont make vary the speed of the arrow this much, because you dont make variing the draw length. That was the question.
@joseph germaine yeah, but i didnt find the sexual double sens...
I learned a little something about archery today. Thanks Lilly!
I'm not a bow shooter but I am a student of concealment and defensive shooting. I enjoy art and technique and your paper test impress me with both.
Lilly, here is a fun exercise that I used to do a few years ago. It needs the help of an assistant. Take a round bow target (two end to end is best) and have your assistant roll the target out from behind cover. As it is passing, shoot it. I did this from the top of a shed roof. I won a few bets doing this when those came around saying it wasn't possible. Start slow, it's all about the lead the faster you get!
Hope you have fun!
Thanks for your content.
Always knowledge there.
Nice video!
Keep'em coming!
Just like my other outdoor skills my archery skills have been unused for decades. Oh my how the technology has advanced. Great demo!
The older I get, the more that I appreciate the newer compound bows with 85% let off.
I congratulate you Lilly on learning and using a recurve bow.
Constructive criticism: Follow-through is very important for the arrow direction and accuracy; and, something your technique is missing.
Shes not a serious archer, shes just doing her own thing exploring her own style. Your critique wasnt asked for nor warranted.
Lost 화살 project much?
@@BonnieBlue2A Nope, just get sick of the toxic culture the archery community has of thinking there is a right way to do everything and feeling the need to enforce it on everyone, even without being asked.
She's trying to shoot a recurve like a compound bow and she's mixing up different styles and equipment without knowing the results from her efforts. She can cause injury because she doesn't know anything about kinetic energy, string twist, knocking point (although she thinks she knows knocking points and that's how she can get dangerous, with flame around tensioned string) or arrow spine. The brass knock pinched onto her serving can cause damage when used with a loop. The loop should be tight enough she doesn't need a brass knock. OH, and the release she's using can eat that loop up in about 200 cycles. Oh, and 3 inch feathers on a recurve without shoot thru capabilities?
@@dbegley990 It is 'nocking' point, though, right? Good point about flame around tensioned string, I'd think, but I'm not really knowledgeable.
Good dog taking a nap. She barked to let you know something was over there. Good girl
I love watching people do what they love. I don't shoot and stumbled onto you video well done Lilly!
I've never done archery in my life, but I thoroughly enjoy watching your amazing skill. I'm completely impressed. Bravo!
Easy sport to get into, you should give it a try at your local archery shop!!
That archery range is in a beautiful location. Such a lovely looking forest
Her accent sounds German. They have a different philosophy about Wooded areas. On the upside, their limited amount encourages conservation. On the downside, the "beauty" you see is actually more Park than Forest. Forests are self-sustainable and have thrived without help from man for centuries. Parks are less so. They might look appealing to people but they are actually food deserts for critters AND trees and other life. While a forest WILL burn more readily in dry conditions, it IS a natural, renewable process if man were nowhere to be found.
IRONICALLY, a forest takes longer than a Park to dry out. The leaves and other dead organic matter protect the moisture in the soil for far longer.
@@arcanondrum6543 She's actually austrian. The range really is in a forrest. It's just half an hour away from me.
Merican here. Those forests look great because they are raked! /s
@@arcanondrum6543 Different philosophy about wooded areas - what do you mean? How does it differ from other places in Europe?
@wilffo.at Alright, cool. Thanks for the elaboration, the more you know :)
You are dropping your bow too soon. Hold it till you hear the arrow hit the target.
Oh dear....
Oh dear is right
Ah. The archers paradox. You'll be chasing that all day.
Usually the problem is too low lbs from the box. They will not shoot traight.
@Bow Brothers Lilly mentioned that she tends to release either right or left. Causing deflection . just a thought.
@Bow Brothers archers paradox is because of the compression of the arrow from the force of the string release, not because of type of release. It can be reduced for sure, though, by various means. See Smarter Every Day's video on it.
@Bow Brothers sound advice. She should consider maybe a ball bearing release instead of the claw type also?
@Bow Brothers Says someone who probably never heard of paradox prior to this video.
I can't wait for the moment when she shows all the features... oh wait, wrong channel
And no guttural laugh either.
Shup up.
@@jonathanday4553 ?
Ha ha ha
Ok did i ask
If you shoot an arrow through paper 1000 times, then your archery skill levels up one point.
Technically that’s correct, do anything 1000 times and your skill ability for that thing will improve.
@@emilflognoid1532 Not sure why it would "technically" be like that. In theory, that logic also applies. Until you're maxed out.
I like the expression: Perfect practice makes one perfect.
Like in Skyrim
Girl, you are sneaking up on the coveted title of ‘World’s Most Perfect Woman.’
I wonder if she has any sister... I'd feel safe having one at home...🐱🐉
This is so cool! I enjoyed how prepared you were to adjust variables.
Hmmmm, I've paper tuned compound bows for many years, usually starting by stepping only 1-2 steps away from the paper. I don't see much benefit shooting through paper over 3-5m away. Given the set up, though it's hard to say what to even try. If you're shooting off the shelf, then you're definitely having contact.....sort of unavoidable. Early in the video I can visually see the arrow come off tail high.
Things to consider:
Minimize or eliminate vane contact (people used to use spray foot powder to check)
Larger vanes stabilize an arrow quicker, but will sacrifice speed.
Cutting arrows makes them stiffer.
Shooting with a lighter tip, makes an arrow stiffer and changes front-of-center (FOC)
Higher FOC will make an arrow stabilize faster (I shoot around 12% FOC out of compounds)
Try a couple of different spines......and lengths
Check for nock pinch at the D loop and brass nock......notorious for tail high shots
Nocks that fit very tightly to the bowstring......are terrible and will cause their own problems.
You want to know what the arrow is doing coming off the bow, not at the target.......
Yep that's the usual procedure. Close in at exact measured distance to eliminate error as much as possible. It's hard to get a perfect pinhole paper tune without a plunger adjustment.
If your shooting with sights and release , go ahead and add adjustable rest , that’s the only way you will ever tune that bow . Oh , shoot the paper at 2 meters , paper at same height of bow and level . Try it , you will see what I’m talking about .
My kind of woman! I mean that in the most respectful way! Hands on, informative! Great vid TY!
Normally a low right tear means too stiff spine or too light point. Also tear is subject to distance from bow. Because of archers paradox, your tear will normally move left and right as you move closer to or further from paper. I was always taught to keep the paper close to the bow, within 3 to 5 feet, to see how the arrow is coming off the bow. this is where you will see the most arrow movement, not down range where the feathers have straightened out a lot of the arrow flight. Here is a most valuable tuning trick I use. Spray your rest and riser window with white foot powder. This will show if your arrow is contacting the riser or plowing into the rest and is easily wiped off when finished tuning. I have many other tips if this helps you. Best of luck, JT
Lilly, You are fascinating and so knowledgeable about the outdoors. I'm impressed by your English. How many languages do you speak?
Great videos, keep it up!
When you shorten the shaft you do lose weight, BUT you also stiffen your spine.
When did folks figure out it makes it lighter?
@@Corinthians-kjv i was using an over draw in the early 90s, over draws sets the arrow rest further back nearer to the string. This allows you to shorten your arrows to an extreme. My setup shoots a 15 1/2 inch arrow. These arrows travel very fast, having almost no drop at 20-25 meters, with a 90 pound draw. over draws have been around since the mid 80s i believe, by the end of the 80s they were available almost anywhere you could buy arrows. Mine was hand made by a German friend of mine who owns a motorcycle repair shop and had the tools and time to build something from my design. (they are actually easy to make)
The rest of my setup uses no sights, (i actually use my knuckle as a sight once the range gets over 40 meters. i also use a broad braided band around my hand attached to the bow which allows me to not grip the bow at all, my hand is literally completely open, this allows for no twist to the bow as the arrow is released, the bow just falls forward slowly. I also shoot american Indian style, from the eye, with three fingers under the knocked arrow with a haired tab.
I did fairly well across Germany in NFAA tournaments late 80s early 90s. I still have that bow and the complete setup.
"archers paradox", Amy [sic.] has grown since my last visit. Still jealous of your workshop' Take care.
Hi Lilly, I hope you are getting better groups. Idk if you know this stuff but the shorter the arrow the stiffer the spine, same with the heads. The less they weigh the stiffer your spine, also adding more things to the string slows the speed. So adding that peep sight, & D loop scrubs speed off of the bow. Your brace hight can make a big difference in arrow flight also. Some people adjust brace hight for noise & some for better arrow flight. The type of string material makes a big difference too, B-50 Dacron is slower than Fast Flight & Dyna Flight is even faster still.
Arrow material is always very important. Carbon is much faster than aluminum, & aluminum is faster than wood. Also the longer your fletching the more stable the arrow is in flight, I always use 5 inch shield cut fletching for that reason.
If you are hunting with it the heavier the arrow the better the penetration.
I don’t recommend changing strings though, it’s a good way to split your limbs. Also Samick bows aren’t the highest of quality & the limbs are known for excessive oscillation at lighter draw weights. I hope this info is of use to you. Happy shooting. Trent.
p.s. All that extra stuff ( i.e. peeps, pins, releases, D loops) only really works on compounds & crossbows. Longbows & Recurves have a soul to them a warmth, almost alive. They all like to be shot the old way. Hands on, leather glove, with your finger always anchoring at the corner of your mouth, & your bow hand very loosely holding the bow your fingers should be almost dangling. And most importantly do it the same way every single time! 😉
I also love that you have a cheap takedown bow with an expensive sight and you shoot with a trigger. I just prefer bare bow, but I use whisker bisquits for arrow rests, but you are out and shooting, so more power to the way you like to shoot.
Truth be told, I watched this because you have a Large Munsterlander, and I love those dogs, had one for 11 years, he was the best boy.
We are so lucky to have been loved and protected by our faithful friends. Dogs are amazing and beautiful creatures.
Thank you for all the work and science and effort you have done, thumbs up!
When the zombie apocalypse happens I want Lily by my side!!!
Hello,
“Tuning” a bow can be a confusing process, but I’ll try to help a little.
1. When paper tuning, the arrow should be parallel with the ground. In other words, you should not be shooting at an up or down angle at the paper. You will often get false readings of high nock when shooting down and low nock when shooting upward. Get a helper to set a bubble level on your arrow shaft while at full draw to assure you are shooting parallel to the surface of the earth.
2. Websites such as Easton have spine calculators wherein you can add your draw length, arrow length, draw weight, type of bow (compound or traditional) and point weight. Arrow length, draw weight and point weight all dramatically affect the arrow’s spine (stiffness).
3. The paper should only be 10 to fifteen feet from the bow for a more accurate interpretation of arrow flight.
4. I have found bare shaft testing very revealing in making bow adjustments. Once again, the arrow should be level with the ground. Shoot a number of arrows into a good (not heavily used) target block and observe the angles of the arrows with respect to one another. Address up/down nock adjustment first. When all shafts strike the target parallel with one another, then right left issues can be addressed. With the compound bow, moving the arrow rest right or left will correct these issues. With the traditional bow, fishtailing is addressed with spine adjustments using different weight points or shaft sizes.
Most of these tuning issues are addressed in numerous on-line articles easily found.
Good luck and remember to always have fun!
You're the only person I know besides myself who uses a caliper release for a takedown recurve bow. I don't always use it but find that it makes my aim much better whenever I do. Same goes for fall away arrow rest. I don't use a sight, but those two I find to be incredibly useful. "Traditionalists" can kiss my behind. Screw haters, - you go girl!!
It really saves the fingers too. Even with finger pads the string will make fingers raw after shoting a lot.
Arrows vibrate laterally in flight, so that's likely to be why it produces a slit and not a simple hole in the paper.
I think most if not all of the reason any particular shot has a straight vs slant cut is the vibration.
This test of the arrows was very interesting. I never knew that the flight of the arrow could be determined and adjusted. And it can be done with something as simple as a piece of paper. Clever, and well done!
@Karl Schubert I disagree. I believe that every detail matters in, and affects, flight. There's a good paper called The Mechanics of Arrow Flight Upon Release that I find interesting. Here is the link in case you are interested: www.ocf.berkeley.edu/~archery/wp-content/uploads/docs/knsu.pdf.
Here is another, called Physics of Archery: www.real-world-physics-problems.com/physics-of-archery.html.
The more aspects of arrow release and flight that Lilly can adjust, the closer she will be to her goal. The Archer's Paradox is a very interesting phenomenon.
@Karl Schubert umm it matters a lot with accuracy especially at distance. You want your arrows firing bullet holes in the paper. This is called paper tuning, lots of people then go into bareshaft tuning which is an arrow with out fletching, same concept, but it is basically super tuning. If you can get these arrows flying straight off the bow your accuracy will improve and groups will tighten at longer distance. A lot of archers shoot regularly at 100 yds (90ms give or take) or further distances as it tightens your groups up at closer ranges. If you didn't do all this tuning, you would never stand a chance. IF she really wants to start putting the time in the arrows themselves can be tuned as well and the fletching done to be in the optimal position (basically nock tuning the arrow, or having a shop find the spine of the arrow to put the cock feather on)
@@caninphx 90 meters??????????? the most shoot at 50to 70 and hunters usually don't go over forty
I like your methodical approach to attain perfect flight for accurate grouping. I wanted to ask if you plan to do any hunting with your bow this fall. I've enjoyed watching all of your videos Lilly. Your pup is growing and filling out beautifully. Thanks for your videos always.
Hunting with bow and arrow is forbidden in Austria, Germany and all western Europe! To go hunting in Austria or Germany you need to take a difficult and expensive test and there is NO public hunting area in Austria or Germany!
Answer for me: a LOT more than I thought at first. Very educational, Lilly. Thanks!
Not been in the channel in a few years. Glad to see it's going well and that your videos are getting better and better.
Probably the most honest clickbait title i've seen on youtube
That little point about moving your left hand made me chuckle. I’m currently learning kyudo after doing archery for years and my bad habit for kyudo is that I don’t move my hands enough lol.
Meanwhile me at 6 years old: Finds a semi straight stick, yoinks moms laundry line to hang clothes upon and builds a VERY crude bow, find semi straight sticks on the ground and launch them about 2-3 meters flying sideways xD
We all did this,heck even as 12 year olds :d
At your age, I constructed a VERY crude flamethrower (mostly from IV tubing and bottles). My mom told me "clever boy". Go figure.
pfft trash. real kids got the toy yellow bow with the suction cup arrows, and broke the bow the first time trying to draw it
ahh good ol sidewinders
@@PAIP_Studio Just because you won't let go of a handicap doesn't mean people are cheaters.
Get good.
As far as I knew - all arrows fly in a Helixical path, and that you could tighten the helix by increasing the rotation/spin of the arrow with special flights (feathers).
So if arrows have a spiral path, you really should do the paper test at a selection of ranges - you should see a slightly different tip/knock impact offset angle at each range to describe the helixical path.
At least you're using a trigger, so you won't have the "release flick" issues that we used to have back in my day!
Lilly.......I was a novice archer and shot at Halls Archery range in Glastonbury CT. I started with a PSA Bow at about 60 lbs. as I progressed I switched to a much smaller Matthews MS? bow. My bow was set up by Butch Johnson their bow mechanic. One of the adjustments was arrow flight. Butch shot my bow through paper with the paper only about 3 to 4 feet from the bow. The tears through the paper showed the straightness of the arrow path through the paper. The fletch cut on the paper was off because the cuts in the paler were very uneven and not centered. Butch knew what adjustment to make to move the noch position to move the rear of the arrow and the. Paper cuts to where they were perfectly centered around the shaft hole. I.’m sure you will know what I mean. I don’t know which way did what but you will know.
Butch was on the US team for the 1980 summer Olympics. ( hope my date is correct). and tuned the bows for the entire US team. If you called Halls Archery Butch is possibly still setting up bows and would advise you on how to proceed. The Halls and Butch were a credit tonArchery. I believe both father and son Halls shot in the Olympics. This was all taking place close to 40 years ago. At 85, and with 4 rotator tears, I cannot pull the little Matthews bow. I have given the whole kit to a grand daughter who loves to hunt. And has only hunted rifle for deer and shotgun for Canada geese. Both successfully. You remind me of her. She was a JUnior Olympics swimmer until she aged out but she is a strong girl and now studying to be a Nurse. Nice video, nice range, I will watch for more. Thus was the first I have found.
Good luck to you
JoeB
Robin Hood fell in love watching that video. He is convinced that he found his soul mate.
I have set up my Samick Sage recurve bow, exactly like you have set up your bow. Your videos are very inspiring!
My three daughters are becoming good archers: I want them to see how cool you are.
I should take up archery. I feel like it would be a useful skill in the post-apocalyptic wasteland.
...somebody had applied sensible thinking here!
thanks lilly great video , the joys of archery 😊 love it . heavy spines lighter spines stiffer spines flexible spines thinner spines , heavier tips lighter tips shorter fletches narrower fletches fatter fletches longer pheeerrr . thinner longer shorter nocks . then sights theres a lot of tuning to be done without silencing and vibration reducing . every single part eventually gets customised as your considtency increases . always a work in progress .10/10
very good at archery, you have a lot of aim and the shot is accurate. Hello good day in the woods👍👋
Look up the “term archers paradox” that applies to traditional bows. Traditional bows are tuned differently than a modern compound.
What range is she shooting at?
@Vanargand range as in distance, didn't realize she mentioned ranges as my volume was turned down. Decent shooting.
@@caninphx 10 mtrs.
The archers Paradox: All arrows oscillate during flight giving it stability, hence the spine.
There’s more to it than that. Everything travels in a wave of some sort. Literally everything. Even if it’s on a constrained track, it will have a longitudinal wave affecting its snapshot velocity. With a straight bow stave, the simplest wave will appear readily through the spine of the arrow (the archers paradox) plus rotational via the manner of release, the notch’s grip on the string, and the flights. The more one tunes each of these factors to approach zero, other subtle factors will come into play to inspire wave-forms. Such as the wind, breathing of the archer, ionisation of the atmosphere, magnetic and electrostatic fields, gravitational fields, the coriolis effect and so on and so on.
I would have been shocked had she produced perfect holes, but still expect that to change if she’d increased or decreased her range to the target.
That was my understanding. All arrows wobble as they fly, and depending on what point in the oscillation the arrow enters the paper, you could have a large tear or a small tear. She's acting like this is something that can be eliminated, which is false. It can be minimized, sure. And, depending on where you place the paper, it can appear like you've eliminated the wobble. We should really be judging the archery and arrows on the only metric that matters, "can you accurately hit a target at different distances, in different conditions, consistently?" If yes, the paper test is completely useless.
@@mikhail_roberts exactly.
@@mstandenberg1421 makes no sense for my understanding. She tries to eliminate the fingertip swing by using a D-tip. The release impact swing may be influenced by a lighter or heavier tip, and at the same time she „speeds up“ what actually means „slow down less“ by shortening the feathers.
An arrow swings. Maybe the way she pulls the arrows out of the target at the beginning weakens the material. She cuts the arrow length more than I think it makes sense after a handle change. Instead of changing one parameter after the other she creates a Frankenstein-setup by changing everything.
The paper nonsens would make sense with five or six sheets in two or three changing positions to find out the min-max of the altitudes position(s), not only an arrow length at a randomly position. Without the fingertip impulse at release moment the arrow swing starts also randomly, not by rolling the string over the fingertips with a little (but defined) angular momentum to the left. I tried this all 25ys ago :-)
@@mikhail_roberts Completely missing the point. All arrows wobble but some arrows wobble more than other arrows. The more you try to flatten the wobble the more accurate it will be. One of the bigger factor is flexibility of the spine and the second is the draw strength. If you shoot a arrow that is made of ceramic or glass arrow for example, there is no wobble whatsoever. But if you shoot it with heavy draw ceramic arrow might break in the middle of flight.
Well first time seeing someone use a release with a recurve.
I enjoyed shooting recurve, and, compound bows for many years, until age caught up to me. I thoroughly enjoyed watching you work through your problems. Shooting paper was almost always frustrating to me. I don't think I ever got it ideal, but, resigned myself to be satisfied that I could hit where I was aiming. You appear to be doing amazingly well.It's a pleasure to watch you shoot. Your love of the bow, and, self-awareness, instinctively wills the arrow home... Great video.
That's a really good way to explain how bow works and what you can change to change how you bow works nice video ^^
Also this dog is so cute O_O
You need the slow-mo guys to see what the arrow flight is doing
They've already done it.
I really like these videos. They are interesting and informative, and it takes me back. You see, I used to be an archerer like you, but then I took an arrow to the knee.
I've heard of shooting yourself in the foot but, how do you manage an arrow in the knee?
Whatever, hope you recover enough to resume your hobby.
I can't hit the side of a barn from inside the damned barn. Most impressed.
-hits roof-
Your groupings will improve with practice as muscles grow stronger to reduce the pull to the left. Knowing that you tend to move after the release is the first hurdle in damping that effect. Shooting in lower pressure also helps develop your accommodation to the release effect you are getting with the attempts at longer distance. Love your channel and will be looking at more of your content in the coming days. Very well done and I love your range set up!
Biggest issue is that when you use a mechanical release on a D loop the arrow naturally oscillates on a vertical plane. When used with a recurve bow with a finger type rest the arrows will not oscillate horizontally so you cannot plunger tune for riser clearance. So in archery science you are mixing principles between two styles of equipment. You either want to shoot release through a vertically sprung rest ie moves down or you want to shoot fingers across the flapper with a plunger style tuner.
We also typically paper tune with bare arrows (no feathers) to see what the shafts are doing with out the stability provided by the fletchings. Tuned to that then it is hyperstable with fletches.
You still razzing Canadian Prepper on you Bow capabilities. Has he asked for a chance of redemption yet?
I envy these guys having a lots of time on their hands ...
Come on, don't tell us that you spend 100% of your time doing nothing other than working. If it's the case, maybe you have a real organization problem...
We all watched the video. Must have some time.
You can always Make Time - stop watching tv for starters
but look at what they do with their time: having problems that we don't :D
Churning out 2-3 videos every week, coming up with interesting ideas for next video, setting up camera, lighting, location for each footage, editing hours and hours of footage. Trying to stay relevant on UA-cam. Phew! I think that's a lot of work.
Try a different release. It could be catching on the d-loop which will affect arrow flight.
Very good video. Keep up the good work
AS Doug would say, 'It will KEAL.' Very good work. Very interesting.
Plus 10 for that sweet dog!
And another ...plus 100 for the pretty young lady !
Bow in video games: Ranged but generally weak 'meh' weapon
Bow in real life: Just seeing what it can do is scary af
There is a reason why bows were used for war in ancient times. They are like bullets. I have tried shooting arrows as practice too. You need lots of strength in the arm to shoot the arrow. If you shoot down, arrows can go through thick soil. Arrows get stuck in the ground and it is hard to pull them out. Think of Excalibur with arrows. Scary.
Tf2 Huntsman begs to differ lol
more like the other way around bows in games shredd
"What happens if you shoot an arrow through a piece of paper?"..........Answer: The paper becomes holy.
Just don't worship it. Lol. 🐺To all: please come to the real Jesus Christ before it's too late. I know for a fact Jesus, heaven and hell are real. Jesus is the only way to be saved. Jesus loves you. 😇✝️🛐. Jesus may return soon.
When you went from 20 meters to 25 meters, you were anticipating the shot and hesitated. It looks like you were nervous or out of your comfort zone. There are a lot of techniques you could learn to help you overcome that. Locking your finger over the trigger and using your scapular muscles to draw your arm back target than squeezing or pulling the trigger, will give you a much more consistent release. Back tension or thumb releases assist with that also. Anyway, archery is much more complicated than people think and it definitely pays off to continually educate yourself, if you want to exponentially improve your accuracy and the arrow's performance. Arrows should be set up in accordance with what your goal is. A hunting arrow is far different than a target arrow that's designed for shooting paper in foam. Troy (The Ranch Fairy) has a lot of videos on "adult arrows," which applies kinetic physics to arrow design and tuning wth the intent of killing large game.
And boom, just like that a thousand archery experts appear in UA-cam.