Spring helper air bag setup would work well. Air it up when you drive, air it down when you race. Mount so it’s floating and not captive to diff so won’t change suspension geometry.
Ive got the same setup in my fg falcon. Highly recommend. Add to that, compressor, and air tank, with a regulated outlet, all that’s required to air up is press and hold of a button
Maby if he goes this route he can also mount the compressor and tank in the tralier and a quick connect air lign fitting so its only used when the tralier is hooked up and the added weight doesnt effect track times too
Nice having your mate in background (dunno how to spell his name lol) asking questions and giving some banter seems to make the videos flow better and gives a nice back and forth. Videos have been great recently and its nice to see the Cresta again 😊
With regards to the trailer, consider establishing registration sanz brakes, add the brakes after establishment. Negates the need for annual inspection and the cost is dramatically less to renew, in NSW
Wilwood makes a metric adjustable brake proportioning valve, 260-12627. I don't know if that is the right threading you need for the cresta, but maybe it'll work for you.
Correct weight distribution on the trailer will help with the rear suspension a double axle trailer would help that further once the nose weight is enough.
It’s cool colloquialism that Aussies use the vin code to ID the model where here in the US I’ve always used the year. Except for a few cars like the civic and rx-7
electric brake upgrade for the axles on the trailer is mvp, best upgrade i did on my bagged dual axle car trailer, now use a redarc towpro can manually activate the trailer brakes, works well coming down the Adelaide hills back into the city from the bend.
Just want to say, I put towels and clothes in the same wash and don't get fluff lol. Also definitely also put white tshirts in with the rest, if it fits it sits
Is it worth looking at air bag spring supports? For the Mazda Bongo and other vans, you can add an air bag inside the spring. When extra support is needed, you add air into the bag via a standard tyre inflator. The valves can be mounted in a more accessible location like the boot, to save going under the car when the pressure needs increasing or lowering. It does change Ride height, just the rear spring rate.
I used to run a motorsport oil on a daily driven built STi engine on instruction of my mechanic, and we kept to 3 months/5000km intervals. It ran for 100,000kms no worries before I sold it. 6 month/5000 was factory but I did it in 3 months and was told to keep it to 3 months anyway even if I didn't do the kms. Relatively low stress and power levels of "built", but it was definitely built, eg. all different pistons/rods and upspec'd studs everywhere. Paid a lot of attention to bearing and ring clearances, slight change in compression and all custom dyno tuned accordingly, running more boost, timing.
I know oil is much cheaper than rebuilding an engine, but someone lied to you about those oil change intervals. Even with double the power, unless you are beating on it every day, I would never go by monthly based intervals.
@@gonzoe123 You do need to change it after a certain time as the oil becomes acidic from combustion products. To work out what the "right" time is would require a few oil analysis tests and some expert opinion. 3 months does seem unreasonably short though.
Hey Benny, saw your Ute parked on Dean Street, Albury on Sunday night. The wheels do suit it. Heard the car as you were accelerating off Dean St. nice street note!
Look into Ride Rite Air Springs. They will be a help for towing. They stay installed, and aired down when not in use. Wat better then having to swaps spring at the track.
Have you thought about airbags? Set the max travel distance to connect for when the trailer is on the ball and that way you can just air down to 5 psi on the bags when you hit the track... they are pretty unobtrusive.
I think you'll find the spring rates are actually something like lb/inch and kg/mm, so for a 200lb spring that means a load of 200lb will compress it 1". Trap for young players is when the spring is mounted to a control arm, that acts as a lever meaning you need a stiffer spring for the same effect.
Correct. Im pretty sure the spring rating is pounds per inch. This means a 200 lb/in spring will be pushing 200lb when compressed 1 inch, 400 lb when compressed 2”, etc. it’s the rate at which the force will increase as the spring is compressed. I assume the metric unit is kg per cm or something like that.
Benny you might think about for brake adjuster from wilwood? It takes the stock peddles and master cylinder. The peddle has 2 master cylinders and an adjustable bar to make the bias. Nascar here uses these and are very simple to use! I have one on my 1970 mustang Mach 1. If you're having trouble finding one I'll be more than willing to help out.
You could probably get a load sensitive proportioning valve, from a ute to work. Make it hand adjustable for trailer or no trailer, to much rear brake at the drag strip could be dangerous.
May sound a bit too much like they're fire caravans but could some trailer load leveling / sway bays help? Certainly easier than playing about with auxiliary springs and won't effect the settings when not towing.
Im pretty sure ae92s and mx83s dont have the joining nut and are m10x1. I know the ln86/106 hiluxes do and the brake boosters are interchangable with 80 series'. The n130 surfs had a right angle joiner thing for the clutch line from memory too
Hey Benny, Some kind of helper airbag might help with your towing and not affect your spring rate on the track,..by no means a comparison but it works well on my Patrol for towing different loads.... so clearly it'll work for your race car 🍻🍻
The Sigma should have a metric joining nut on the firewall near the trans tunnel and Willwood do metric/imperial adapters for their adjustable prop valve.
the belt works harder due the RPM rate of change. The resistive load per unit time to accelerate the pulleys, belt, water impeller and water, alternator mass but ironically not the charging as this will "slack off" at higher rpm. So the belt works harder at the track, just for less time.
E36's don't give you depression, they empty your wallet...agree on the comments about the E46 though Benny ;-) Good to see the Cresta getting some love
Hey it maybe a shit idea. What about a ute style brake proportioning valve. Something variable [ load dependent ] . It would be a pain in the ass to setup but it may help
Do you guys have trailer hitch load spreader bars? I’ve used them to keep the trailer from diving during braking. They go from the trailer to the hitch
Spring rates Benny. "Pounds" Pounds per Inch (lb/in) How many pounds to compress the spring one inch "Kg" Kg per mm Lots of factory Subaru stuff is about 3-4 kg/mm (not getting into non-linear spring rates) Quick Conversion 150lb/in = 2.7kg/mm
Would you consider changing the master cylinder for maybe a ford or holden unit deaigned for a car of similar weight like maybe eb non abs item, as for trailer brakes a electric brakes on the trailer with a controller with manual over ride feature as my parents towed a caravan behind their falcons with a quality controller
A question, when you re fill oil why can’t you just put in the exact amount, for example my hilux takes 4.7 litres so I measure 4.7 litres and tip it in, and the dipstick is perfect every time, I’m sure there is a reason, just curious!!
@@BennysCustomWorksok cool, I’m not completely crazy then, I guess though with the amount of oil changes you do you’ll get it spot on anyway, As you were!!👍
I was about to say the same thing... pretty common in the 4x4 scene (not sure if this is coilover or not though... flicked through the video and couldn't see)
Yeah rotaries are super cool, but if you want to own one for more than a daily driver - you will end up having to commit fully to rotary life for it. If it's going to be in a race car then you'll need to get used to pulling the engine if a rotor is down on compression, or if you have this problem or that problem. All the fiddly bits like apex seals and oil rings are just asking for 1 thing to go wrong. So you just get used to that life of pulling your engine and rebuilding it over the weekend, far more often than you ever would with a piston engine. But that's also when you are pushing your engine hard. If you just have it as a daily driver then you may end up having even less problems than you do with a regular piston engine. You specifically Benny are great about preventative work on your cars and I think you would rather enjoy some of the rotary life.
you lost me at the E46 diss. not really. Bring on the 7s! Back to my defence of BMW... Add a set of e-torx bits to your toolbox and you're sorted. Yes, BMWs often leak oil, yes, the plastic cooling systems need an eye kept on them, but they're quite amazing cars. Once you figure out how their built, they're remarkably easy to work on. German engineering almost always leads and the rest follow. The Toyota inline sixes have BMW lineage, just as the Nissan inline sixes have Merc lineage. You can even see it up until the Japanese stopped making them... :-( Having said that, once my M54B30 decides to stop tolerating 14PSI of boost, I'll be replacing it with something else (Based on either RB or JZ, haven't decided yet).
Loving the Cresta content, cant wait to see it run a 7 😎👌 Those clamps on the coolant pipes, are they the same as the ones people use for the intake pipes or are they coolant specific?
Benny, Rotaries aren't that bad. Just keep them serviced and they're pretty good. I've put 130,000kms on a RX8 and apart from Servicing the worst I've had to do is replace a battery. Just look for one in good nick, good service history and you're set.
lol, washing machine debate. Ps make sure when fixing a washing machine (you don’t know how to use) that it’s on an RCD circuit for the 453rd time you checked the motor/pump and are sure you flicked the power switch….
🤔 what about an air bag or 2 instead of extra springs that way there's alot more variability, would be nothing worse than doing all that work only to find its too hard and rattling your brains out
Question @13:44 Where does our Nitrous Oxide come from? I've never thought of that before. Where is it produced? In Australia? NFI. Google isn't being helpful right now. Side note. Clear Prop! Ha ha! Aviation for the win!
![BRZ vs WRX STI - ReMatch [Disrespected Emotion]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aqqWV1WR1z8/mqdefault.jpg)
I remember when this car was built on MCM... 2015? How fast time flies, it doesn't seem that long ago, but here we are almost 9 years later? Damn.
Spring helper air bag setup would work well. Air it up when you drive, air it down when you race. Mount so it’s floating and not captive to diff so won’t change suspension geometry.
Saw that setup on Snot rocket, such a smart idea
Classic inflatable ball
Ive got the same setup in my fg falcon. Highly recommend.
Add to that, compressor, and air tank, with a regulated outlet, all that’s required to air up is press and hold of a button
Maby if he goes this route he can also mount the compressor and tank in the tralier and a quick connect air lign fitting so its only used when the tralier is hooked up and the added weight doesnt effect track times too
Devin vanderhoof has some videos on his setup on his big block twin turbo foxbody
Nice having your mate in background (dunno how to spell his name lol) asking questions and giving some banter seems to make the videos flow better and gives a nice back and forth. Videos have been great recently and its nice to see the Cresta again 😊
He's asking all the questions that I, as a not-car-expert, tend to find myself wondering from time to time
With regards to the trailer, consider establishing registration sanz brakes, add the brakes after establishment. Negates the need for annual inspection and the cost is dramatically less to renew, in NSW
‘I dont think someone would pay what i would want for it anyway’ resonates
It's dangerous, I have a barn full of them
Every mechanic/tech/hobbiest while flushing coolant, synchronized sarcastic "Yum" 🤣
Wilwood makes a metric adjustable brake proportioning valve, 260-12627. I don't know if that is the right threading you need for the cresta, but maybe it'll work for you.
Thank you
Great episode. The banter is getting better.
I'm relieved you put the belt on the right way!
Great video Benny good to see the Cresta getting worked on. Can't wait to see you run a 7
Correct weight distribution on the trailer will help with the rear suspension a double axle trailer would help that further once the nose weight is enough.
All drag n drives require a single axle trailer as part of the rules unfortunately
@@BennysCustomWorks oh really didn't know that. Bit of a pain.
It’s cool colloquialism that Aussies use the vin code to ID the model where here in the US I’ve always used the year. Except for a few cars like the civic and rx-7
Yeah I’ve noticed the US terms or slang for cars/ trucks is heavily weighted towards the engine it has and not much to do with the car around it
electric brake upgrade for the axles on the trailer is mvp, best upgrade i did on my bagged dual axle car trailer, now use a redarc towpro can manually activate the trailer brakes, works well coming down the Adelaide hills back into the city from the bend.
Just want to say, I put towels and clothes in the same wash and don't get fluff lol. Also definitely also put white tshirts in with the rest, if it fits it sits
Any option for adding an air-spring in the back? Hook up the trailer, air up to level it, air down to give 'er
Is it worth looking at air bag spring supports? For the Mazda Bongo and other vans, you can add an air bag inside the spring. When extra support is needed, you add air into the bag via a standard tyre inflator. The valves can be mounted in a more accessible location like the boot, to save going under the car when the pressure needs increasing or lowering. It does change Ride height, just the rear spring rate.
🙏I pray to the car gods, that somehow, this beautiful beast, ends up on "Jay Leno's Garage"!🙏
I used to run a motorsport oil on a daily driven built STi engine on instruction of my mechanic, and we kept to 3 months/5000km intervals. It ran for 100,000kms no worries before I sold it. 6 month/5000 was factory but I did it in 3 months and was told to keep it to 3 months anyway even if I didn't do the kms.
Relatively low stress and power levels of "built", but it was definitely built, eg. all different pistons/rods and upspec'd studs everywhere. Paid a lot of attention to bearing and ring clearances, slight change in compression and all custom dyno tuned accordingly, running more boost, timing.
I know oil is much cheaper than rebuilding an engine, but someone lied to you about those oil change intervals. Even with double the power, unless you are beating on it every day, I would never go by monthly based intervals.
@@gonzoe123 You do need to change it after a certain time as the oil becomes acidic from combustion products. To work out what the "right" time is would require a few oil analysis tests and some expert opinion. 3 months does seem unreasonably short though.
Hey Benny, saw your Ute parked on Dean Street, Albury on Sunday night. The wheels do suit it. Heard the car as you were accelerating off Dean St. nice street note!
If you mean the Falcon, I sold it about 12 months ago
Yes, the Falcon. The new owner certainly is looking after it well.
Nice one Benny, excited to see what the old girl can do back home.
Look into Ride Rite Air Springs. They will be a help for towing. They stay installed, and aired down when not in use. Wat better then having to swaps spring at the track.
Have you thought about airbags? Set the max travel distance to connect for when the trailer is on the ball and that way you can just air down to 5 psi on the bags when you hit the track... they are pretty unobtrusive.
I think you'll find the spring rates are actually something like lb/inch and kg/mm, so for a 200lb spring that means a load of 200lb will compress it 1".
Trap for young players is when the spring is mounted to a control arm, that acts as a lever meaning you need a stiffer spring for the same effect.
Correct. Im pretty sure the spring rating is pounds per inch. This means a 200 lb/in spring will be pushing 200lb when compressed 1 inch, 400 lb when compressed 2”, etc. it’s the rate at which the force will increase as the spring is compressed. I assume the metric unit is kg per cm or something like that.
Benny you might think about for brake adjuster from wilwood? It takes the stock peddles and master cylinder. The peddle has 2 master cylinders and an adjustable bar to make the bias. Nascar here uses these and are very simple to use! I have one on my 1970 mustang Mach 1. If you're having trouble finding one I'll be more than willing to help out.
You could probably get a load sensitive proportioning valve, from a ute to work. Make it hand adjustable for trailer or no trailer, to much rear brake at the drag strip could be dangerous.
May sound a bit too much like they're fire caravans but could some trailer load leveling / sway bays help? Certainly easier than playing about with auxiliary springs and won't effect the settings when not towing.
Im pretty sure ae92s and mx83s dont have the joining nut and are m10x1. I know the ln86/106 hiluxes do and the brake boosters are interchangable with 80 series'. The n130 surfs had a right angle joiner thing for the clutch line from memory too
Hey Benny, Some kind of helper airbag might help with your towing and not affect your spring rate on the track,..by no means a comparison but it works well on my Patrol for towing different loads.... so clearly it'll work for your race car 🍻🍻
every time you start your engine without a filter on that turbo intake I get anxiety of that old video where a rag gets sucked in during a dyno run
Leave the springs that work on the track and put helper air bags in for road / towing
The Sigma should have a metric joining nut on the firewall near the trans tunnel and Willwood do metric/imperial adapters for their adjustable prop valve.
Good video Benny.
Comment to bump your comments up.
In spring air bags? Made a difference towing my loaded my motorbike trailer.
I can’t fit them as it’s coil over rear
the belt works harder due the RPM rate of change. The resistive load per unit time to accelerate the pulleys, belt, water impeller and water, alternator mass but ironically not the charging as this will "slack off" at higher rpm. So the belt works harder at the track, just for less time.
For a crazy moment the old caravan leveling bars came into my head. Can we just forget I ever said that 😂
E36's don't give you depression, they empty your wallet...agree on the comments about the E46 though Benny ;-) Good to see the Cresta getting some love
Only here for the spillages and tunes. X
Hey it maybe a shit idea. What about a ute style brake proportioning valve. Something variable [ load dependent ] . It would be a pain in the ass to setup but it may help
Yeah that may work :D
Do you guys have trailer hitch load spreader bars? I’ve used them to keep the trailer from diving during braking. They go from the trailer to the hitch
Just checked my AE92, no brake line joiner. It uses make and female unions for the joins.
You could do a two axles trailer to help with the level.
We can’t run tandem axle trailers in drag n drive
@@BennysCustomWorksoh... I didn't know that... Thanks for the info Benny!
Spring rates Benny.
"Pounds"
Pounds per Inch (lb/in)
How many pounds to compress the spring one inch
"Kg"
Kg per mm
Lots of factory Subaru stuff is about 3-4 kg/mm
(not getting into non-linear spring rates)
Quick Conversion
150lb/in = 2.7kg/mm
yewwww lets go! cant wait to see how this goes.
Why not airbags or secondary airbags?
No real position to put them
Joiner nuts are plenty on the front of a Toyota dyna/ duttro just behind the grill because the cab tilts 😎👍🏼
I always used to overfill my oil.
Damn Benny been eating well :D
Could i ask why you are not using a preblended coolant? it does help prevent sludge/rust a bit more than normal water/destilled water right?
Would you consider changing the master cylinder for maybe a ford or holden unit deaigned for a car of similar weight like maybe eb non abs item, as for trailer brakes a electric brakes on the trailer with a controller with manual over ride feature as my parents towed a caravan behind their falcons with a quality controller
It already has a Toyota Coaster bus master cyl.
What’s your cold oil pressure and warm pressure at idle?
Would the oil filter elements be vibrated loose from high RPM?
Right on Benny !!
A question, when you re fill oil why can’t you just put in the exact amount, for example my hilux takes 4.7 litres so I measure 4.7 litres and tip it in, and the dipstick is perfect every time,
I’m sure there is a reason, just curious!!
Tbh I don’t know one mechanic that measures oil out but I guess it does make sense
@@BennysCustomWorksok cool, I’m not completely crazy then, I guess though with the amount of oil changes you do you’ll get it spot on anyway,
As you were!!👍
I know the feeling of "Not that wrist".
Have you looked at just running airbags for towing?
Yes, there’s no room
@@BennysCustomWorks they sit within the spring and can inflate using normal servo air
That Toyota Crester Good job Work on it Benny
Get the Valvoline rep on the show to talk about oil. That would be cool!
You boys and your "good shoes" 😂😂😂
Benny’s parents still do his washing 😂😂
My wife does actually. Not every 30 something still lives at home :D
Does spares box have a code that has your parts turn up in under 2months ?
The cockatoos are wild today
Helper airbags, might be a good idea 💡 🤔
I was about to say the same thing... pretty common in the 4x4 scene (not sure if this is coilover or not though... flicked through the video and couldn't see)
Yeah rotaries are super cool, but if you want to own one for more than a daily driver - you will end up having to commit fully to rotary life for it. If it's going to be in a race car then you'll need to get used to pulling the engine if a rotor is down on compression, or if you have this problem or that problem. All the fiddly bits like apex seals and oil rings are just asking for 1 thing to go wrong. So you just get used to that life of pulling your engine and rebuilding it over the weekend, far more often than you ever would with a piston engine. But that's also when you are pushing your engine hard. If you just have it as a daily driver then you may end up having even less problems than you do with a regular piston engine. You specifically Benny are great about preventative work on your cars and I think you would rather enjoy some of the rotary life.
AN fitting hose fitting is cool as fuck! Also surprised you just run water instead of coolant or even water wetter. Any reason? Or just water is free?
Only plain water allowed at the drag strip, so that when cars spew water on the track it’s not as slippery and easier to clean up.
@@pieflies spot on
We use Valvoline coolant where we can but at the track it has to be water only
Cresta FTW
Gian asking the questions that we are all thinking, but not sure how to ask.
you lost me at the E46 diss. not really. Bring on the 7s!
Back to my defence of BMW...
Add a set of e-torx bits to your toolbox and you're sorted.
Yes, BMWs often leak oil, yes, the plastic cooling systems need an eye kept on them, but they're quite amazing cars. Once you figure out how their built, they're remarkably easy to work on.
German engineering almost always leads and the rest follow. The Toyota inline sixes have BMW lineage, just as the Nissan inline sixes have Merc lineage. You can even see it up until the Japanese stopped making them... :-(
Having said that, once my M54B30 decides to stop tolerating 14PSI of boost, I'll be replacing it with something else (Based on either RB or JZ, haven't decided yet).
i didnt know giane was so talkative... im not sure how i feel about this.. lol😂😂
Redarc brake controller and elec brakes will improve towing life out of site!
Loving the Cresta content, cant wait to see it run a 7 😎👌
Those clamps on the coolant pipes, are they the same as the ones people use for the intake pipes or are they coolant specific?
Benny, Rotaries aren't that bad. Just keep them serviced and they're pretty good. I've put 130,000kms on a RX8 and apart from Servicing the worst I've had to do is replace a battery.
Just look for one in good nick, good service history and you're set.
m10 x 1.0 joiner aeroflow AF373
lol, washing machine debate. Ps make sure when fixing a washing machine (you don’t know how to use) that it’s on an RCD circuit for the 453rd time you checked the motor/pump and are sure you flicked the power switch….
Zohmygawd didn't pre fill the oil filter! Catastrophic failure! lol
125lb/inch is very soft, sure that's the right number?
Yep. The car separates due to the rear end geometry so heavy springs aren’t required.
Why not use distilled water for cooling. Is that not allowed in drag racing? It shouldn't rust out like tap water
im here to fight benny in the comments, round 1
Teflon fitting on rubber benny really cmon
🤔 what about an air bag or 2 instead of extra springs that way there's alot more variability, would be nothing worse than doing all that work only to find its too hard and rattling your brains out
Hard to put anywhere tbh . There’s not much room
it's not a front bar it's a front bumper
what, i didnt know this about clothes with towels. huh, learn something new
Not sure how the pound rating works on a spring… but I know how it works on yo mumma 😂
Moist
Question @13:44 Where does our Nitrous Oxide come from? I've never thought of that before. Where is it produced? In Australia? NFI. Google isn't being helpful right now. Side note. Clear Prop! Ha ha! Aviation for the win!
No idea where it comes from tbh. It may be made locally but I’ve never thought about it