The one inch hex porcelain tiles in double layers seems to work for me they also confrom to rounded objects and would do better with multiple hits. Unglazed porcelain are stronger, if you score the glazed portion of the porcelain they will become very weak, unglazed are very porous and harder to break. Also it would be good to add some angles of deflection, sometimes its better to deflect then to stop the rounds.
So I have had that same idea rattling around in my head for a while and here is my thought. Two layers of overlapping 1" hex porcelain tiles as a face, multiple layers of epoxy bonded fiberglass in the middle, and a thin layer of sheet steel at the back, with the whole thing covered in rhino-lining bed liner to make it a nice slick package that could easily be inserted into a plate carrier while more importantly bonding the porous porcelain tiles together and to the top outermost layer of fiberglass. Alternatively the tiles could be baked into HDPE so it rather than rhino lining bonds them together then placed on the fiberglass with steel backing and then that whole package is dipped in rhino lining. The thin sheet steel can be formed in a simple or complex curvature pretty easily and then used as a form for the fiberglass, over top of that drape the 2 layers of already rhino lining dipped tiles (or melty bendy HDPE baked tiles), let it dry and then coat the whole assembly in rhino lining to seal it all and further bond the tiles (in the case of the rhino lining dipped ones). This in theory should allow for the tiles to still shatter on impact of the round breaking it up making it easier for the fibreglass to catch, but keep most of the porcelain shards where they are so they can reduce damage from further shots before that one inch section is spent. The rounds are then caught by the layers of fiberglass and resin, and the metal backing helps to solidify everything and minimize deformation into the wearer, from heavy rifle rounds. The thickness of the steel used and the number of (as well as type of) fiberglass layers used would be variable and the increased as needed for the desired caliber resistance. Moderately heavy but robust. As a total wackjob idea do hex tiles over a bunch of fiberglass soaked in a shear thickening fluid STF (high viscosity silicone oil with nano particle sized silica, metal oxides, or non oxide substances of various kinds that are nonreactive to the silicone oil medium they will be suspended in). You would need to find a way to keep the STF from sinking to the bottom so would need an envelope that could bend and flex with the wearer but NOT stretch as to not allow the bottom to balloon out. and that could also self heal to some extent so the STF does not leak out after one shot. It would be a flexible "plate" armor. that would go over soft body armor providing a layer of added protection able to (combined with the soft armor below) stop high caliber rifle rounds.
Surely some higher grade of steel might offer similar protection for the price by being thinner. Knowing blade steels, 5160 is pretty good stuff, almost as hard as high carbon steels but as cheap and brittle as medium carbon ones.
For sure! I just didn't have any off hand for the basic round of testing, I was already planning for the doors to be some form of composite hybrid, either with steel or ceramic. When it comes to the grill and around the engine we'll be diving more into other steels and metals.
@@Techthisoutmeow Low carbon steel is weaker and softer than the 7075 aluminum you tested a while back, while being almost 3x the weight. Good cast iron would probably be better than it. I don't have a grade in mind, but milspec armor is about 1% Chromium, Manganese, and Nickel with about .6% silicon and .3% carbon, so any steel similar to that should be much better than what you have.
@@highmolecularweightRDX scavenging steel off construction equipment and dump trucks is likely to score you some ar400 or similar. Best stuff to stop kinetic rounds would be a hardfaced dozer blade from a quarry
Remember that ar 500 stands for “abrasion resistant” There’s a form of abrasion and galling from bullets that’s pretty unique. A cheap option I can think of would be d2 or a2, but even high carbon steels like 15n20 (2% nickel, actually increases impact toughness appreciably) or even 8670 (the toughest steel available basically, also contains nickel) I don’t think steel is the answer unless it can be thin and have little spalling
Love this series! When will we get the next video? I am considering trying something similar with ultra cheap combinations of materials such as steel oven pans, resin, fiberglass blankets, fiberglass cutting boards, ceramic tiles and old encyclopedias. I'd be interested in seeing you test some super-ghetto rigged ideas like that. Even if they aren't as good, I am curious if the super easy and cheap options offer an value at all.
Try using 1/4” plate with hard facing welds, bonded with Kevlar material and fiberglass fabric, add a layer of polyethylene from blue poly drums. The polyethylene will help to reduce the rounds from spalling.
That is awesome. Had similar thoughts on doing that after there were several freeway shoot outs on the same road I took to going to school awhile back. Guess there was some gang beef going on in that area at the time. Found out one of them happened around 30mins after I went down that stretch of road and could have been caught up in it and take a stray round. Keep up the great work!
How do you intend to mount the armour into the door? The frameworks and mounting of armour is going to be a design challenge you'll have to work around- the material and mounting system where the door interfaces with the armour and the space between armour plates (unless you mount a single monolithic plate into the door) represent potential points of failure- projectiles can pry joints apart and slip between plates or tear them away from their mounts. I'm eager to see the solutions you develop to work around these issues,
An vehicle armorer I spoke to told me they use "Liquid Nails," but they use Spectrashield (by 3M) impregnated with an epoxy resin. They then cut out the single sheet to fit the shape of the area of the vehicle they are attaching it to.
Are you adding a gun port for return fire because if your windows are 3 inches thick they obviously are not going down and you also can’t shoot thru your door for obvious reasons
Hey I have a question about the HDPE armor segments you tested: can they be recycled? Like, could you take one of the used plates that's full of holes, remelt it into a square, and it'd be just as good? Or would there be degradation of it's anti-ballistic quality?
I remember watching an episode of The A Team where Mr. T bulletproofed a vehicle using sheet metal cut from an elevator car. It worked perfectly. If only you had access to some 14 ga elevator car sheet metal.
"QUESTION " !!! I have cut up ALOT of milk jugs so far, Do you use the bottoms of the jugs?? also , before I cut up the large side pieces of the jugs, do you use them in any way in that size ?
@@swegmastur614 those ended up being around 12 lbs per square foot. I'll check my notes and give you the exact number soon, it was on the lighter end of 12 I believe for the 30 layer one, might scale up light too. Now the main reason I can't use ar500 is cost. I considered it though, if I can find a close by distributor for it. Shipping for heavy steel is insane lol. I also hear its a pain to cut and weld.
Removing that reinforcing bar at the lower end of the door will compromise side impact safety unless one is up armoring with AR500 panels. "Soft" armor will not protect you from a side impact collision.
I’m autistically fixated on using a rubberized polyethylene to affix ceramic to a plate to help with breakage and crumbling. I imagine it keeping the ceramic together. Even like silicone and stuff too. Something rubberized.
When you’re making your allowances for weight, don’t forget to account for the weight of people, weapons, and equipment and for the weight you discarded like that window motor.
What about welding ar500 targets together? Im looking to bulletproof a 4runner by making a ar500 steel box out back and welding ar500 panels to the inside of door and engine wall
Anytime I’ve welded AR500, it makes the steel much softer where the heat was highest. Ultimately I was able to shoot thru the plates about 1” from either side of the welds.
Seems to me you could use 30 layers of woven roving and half inch steel plate. Maybe less than a half inch? Idk how much weight it would be but that woven roving stuff is super strong. The 30 layers didn't look that thick. Half inch? How heavy is it? You should try 2 or 3 inches of it. You said the door can hold up to 4 inches of material and if a half inch stops bullets imagine what 3 inches would stop. Sounds like a good .50 cal test lol. Love the series and hopefully you come up with some game changing stuff for us hands on folk. I look forward to what you come up with for the radiator, tires and gas tank. Maybe that woven roving can solve most of your problems without alot of weight.
I've always wanted to do this but with extra cheap 3a vest's or AR500 armor plates I can buy 2nd hand off people for cheap who got scammed into buying some
I guess the series is over. But I think he would have been better off if he just went for an old compact single cab truck like an S10 or Ranger. He would have had way more payload available add-on to "increase payload" (helper springs, airbags, etc). Plus, he would have way less to bulletproof.
Could you add a discord invitation link that does not expire and does not grant temporary membership on the next video? I joined not long ago and yesterday I suddenly was not in the server anymore, and can't rejoin coz all the links are expired.
My discord got taken down brother, for violation of the TOS. Don't know what the conversation was about. So yeah, we lost everything that we had recorded on there, and I'm not sure if I'm going to make another one. Losing everything without warning like that is upsetting to say the least.
Nooo, I knew something wasn't right. Have you by any chance made a server template before it happened? The messages and members would be lost but we would at least have the ranks and all the channels, but just empty. If not I would still be glad if you made a new server, nothing fancy, five channels is enough.
Have you thought about using armorcore paneling as a way to bulletproof vehicle? Good for protection. You can use basic carpentry skills to get it fitted for your vehicle.
I'm now the proud owner of three 8x5ft level 7 armorcore bullet proof sheets. I also recently picked up two 44inx44in bullet proof sheets of glass. Now it's time to armor my truck. Making my dream ride. Sweet.
Nice to see you again oh mighty armorer. Are you going to modify the suspension? I have to imagine that you'll bottom it out with all that extra weight.
@@knerduno5942 lead penetrate far less than steel, as it is infinitely softer. (wich mean projectile flatten out almost instantly compared to steel, wich mean it get stopped far sooner in the plate, wich mean far more remaining material in the plate to stop the lead and reduce the BFD) one of the only exeptions to that rule are the case with two-parts core like 5.56 M855 but aside from that kind of odd situation, even a mild steel core will always be harder to stop than FMJ
@@gamecubekingdevon3 I would disagree. kinetic energy calculations show lead is going hit harder than steel will, considering the same size of the bullet. Since steel is less dense, thus less weight. That means the round is going lose momentum much faster than lead. I also understand since lead is denser, it will deliver its impact in a smaller surface area, which is better to penetrate a material. Better if he still did the test with both types of rounds.
@@knerduno5942 there is a reason why most armies use steel core ammo. Same for tanks, you don t see big lead balls being shot, but instead you see thin hardened steel or tungsten alloys arrows being shot. Lead is super soft, even softer than most plastics, it cause it to flatten instantly upon impact, spreading the energy over a large surface. Ther eis à reason why , when doing anti armor you always see cores made of hard materials and not soft ones. On the opposite soft things are good for expansion against soft targets
@@-Turtl3_ it's looking like both servers, old and new got the nuke. So did all the mods, you me zach ana gopnik ect. I'll make a post about this even, and plans of moving forward
@@Techthisoutmeow I sent an inquiry to the discord Support regarding my deactivation but if that doesn't change anything, I might create a second account.
It sounds good, but ive seen it tested before. It doesn't work because the resin is all that holds it together. The guy even used big chunks of aluminum oxide in resin and it would punch the 3/4in chunks right out
To be honest I wouldn’t care if I have access to windows going up and down once semi bullet proof for the simple reason that just gotta have A/C compressor and all ready and properly running at all times.
Yep, gone, reduced to atoms. All the mods got yeeted, my account got yeeted. Server sent on a one way trip to Brazil. Soooooooo, don't know what I'm going to do. Luckily I have the contact information of a few people, so I'll see what we can do soon, hang tight. I'll know more this evening.
Yeah, I think I have too, just to test some things out. I mean, got 4 to do, plus the rear door so. might change a few things up here and there. But I want one to have a retractable window.
Real Life flies in ointment - if you fit ballistic glazing, it ain't gonna wind up & down. Makes Toll booths/Drive-throughs "Fun"... Most "Owners" will not live with that hassle after a week or 2 of experiencing it. If you have to open the door to pay someone, it kinda defeats the purpose. .. Second "Fly" is the windscreen - if you fit a flat glazed ballistic version, it will look like a horses arse. Therefore it has to somewhat conform to the original profile - whereby you discover the dashboard is in the way of the new "thickness" - or else it stick out instead of in. and looks like a horses arse. Plus you now have to curve the Lexan blah blah to the same shape as the old windscreen.. Secondly/fifthly, "assassination" has changed - chances are your local friendly hitman has evolved like most have & no longer wander up clutching an AK 47 - long, long Jail terms for having one of those in your back pocket have forced "New Methods". By & large, your "Up to Date & With the Times Huffy Lad who offs people" runs you down with a nicked Audi Q7 or a BMW X5 - so maybe investing in a portable bollard that can halt a speeding SUV might be "The New Thing"... or not.. They now wait till you are out & walking about - then run you over with the 4*4 - it's hugely fashionable & also slightly harder to install thicker glazing what for "prevention"... 5-0 tend to investigate "Hit & run" events less enthusiastically than someone letting off firearms in public - which - as always - the Bad Guys have leapt on. Watch how you're talkin and where you're walkin - or you & your homies might be lined in chalk - ahem.. Not as glamorous - but very current... "Got run over" sounds a lot less news-worthy too - think on. "Guy gotta step out of that armoured car at some stage.... " is their new Logic. Then BLAM! That & the whole "Nothing you prepare for ever happens" aspect - it will be the thing that never crossed your worried mind - dancing happily into that cool party... going for a spin with a Pal - stuff you never prepped for.
The one inch hex porcelain tiles in double layers seems to work for me they also confrom to rounded objects and would do better with multiple hits.
Unglazed porcelain are stronger, if you score the glazed portion of the porcelain they will become very weak, unglazed are very porous and harder to break.
Also it would be good to add some angles of deflection, sometimes its better to deflect then to stop the rounds.
So I have had that same idea rattling around in my head for a while and here is my thought.
Two layers of overlapping 1" hex porcelain tiles as a face, multiple layers of epoxy bonded fiberglass in the middle, and a thin layer of sheet steel at the back, with the whole thing covered in rhino-lining bed liner to make it a nice slick package that could easily be inserted into a plate carrier while more importantly bonding the porous porcelain tiles together and to the top outermost layer of fiberglass.
Alternatively the tiles could be baked into HDPE so it rather than rhino lining bonds them together then placed on the fiberglass with steel backing and then that whole package is dipped in rhino lining.
The thin sheet steel can be formed in a simple or complex curvature pretty easily and then used as a form for the fiberglass, over top of that drape the 2 layers of already rhino lining dipped tiles (or melty bendy HDPE baked tiles), let it dry and then coat the whole assembly in rhino lining to seal it all and further bond the tiles (in the case of the rhino lining dipped ones).
This in theory should allow for the tiles to still shatter on impact of the round breaking it up making it easier for the fibreglass to catch, but keep most of the porcelain shards where they are so they can reduce damage from further shots before that one inch section is spent. The rounds are then caught by the layers of fiberglass and resin, and the metal backing helps to solidify everything and minimize deformation into the wearer, from heavy rifle rounds. The thickness of the steel used and the number of (as well as type of) fiberglass layers used would be variable and the increased as needed for the desired caliber resistance. Moderately heavy but robust.
As a total wackjob idea do hex tiles over a bunch of fiberglass soaked in a shear thickening fluid STF (high viscosity silicone oil with nano particle sized silica, metal oxides, or non oxide substances of various kinds that are nonreactive to the silicone oil medium they will be suspended in). You would need to find a way to keep the STF from sinking to the bottom so would need an envelope that could bend and flex with the wearer but NOT stretch as to not allow the bottom to balloon out. and that could also self heal to some extent so the STF does not leak out after one shot. It would be a flexible "plate" armor. that would go over soft body armor providing a layer of added protection able to (combined with the soft armor below) stop high caliber rifle rounds.
The tires can be filled with expandable foam, improvised run flats.
Very informative video, and the results were surprising! Ceramic and fiberglass, such a light combo!
Details are always awesome. :)
Surely some higher grade of steel might offer similar protection for the price by being thinner. Knowing blade steels, 5160 is pretty good stuff, almost as hard as high carbon steels but as cheap and brittle as medium carbon ones.
For sure! I just didn't have any off hand for the basic round of testing, I was already planning for the doors to be some form of composite hybrid, either with steel or ceramic. When it comes to the grill and around the engine we'll be diving more into other steels and metals.
@@Techthisoutmeow Low carbon steel is weaker and softer than the 7075 aluminum you tested a while back, while being almost 3x the weight. Good cast iron would probably be better than it. I don't have a grade in mind, but milspec armor is about 1% Chromium, Manganese, and Nickel with about .6% silicon and .3% carbon, so any steel similar to that should be much better than what you have.
@@highmolecularweightRDX scavenging steel off construction equipment and dump trucks is likely to score you some ar400 or similar. Best stuff to stop kinetic rounds would be a hardfaced dozer blade from a quarry
Remember that ar 500 stands for “abrasion resistant”
There’s a form of abrasion and galling from bullets that’s pretty unique. A cheap option I can think of would be d2 or a2, but even high carbon steels like 15n20 (2% nickel, actually increases impact toughness appreciably) or even 8670 (the toughest steel available basically, also contains nickel)
I don’t think steel is the answer unless it can be thin and have little spalling
I’m VERY excited about this project!!
I think seeing how you would do one of the doors with operational window would be interesting
Yeah, I kinda have to try atlest one, even if the main plan wasn't to have any retractable. Just to see if I can
@@Techthisoutmeow The diver's window is probably the most useful, but you would have to make it wider to stop anything more than a bb.
Definitively the driver window! Armored vehicles also need to use a drive-through :)
@@Paranorb he wants a bug out jeep not a fancy one
@@Techthisoutmeowwould definitely be cool to see.
appreciate all your work and videos! ⚡
Love this series! When will we get the next video?
I am considering trying something similar with ultra cheap combinations of materials such as steel oven pans, resin, fiberglass blankets, fiberglass cutting boards, ceramic tiles and old encyclopedias. I'd be interested in seeing you test some super-ghetto rigged ideas like that. Even if they aren't as good, I am curious if the super easy and cheap options offer an value at all.
Try using 1/4” plate with hard facing welds, bonded with Kevlar material and fiberglass fabric, add a layer of polyethylene from blue poly drums. The polyethylene will help to reduce the rounds from spalling.
That is awesome. Had similar thoughts on doing that after there were several freeway shoot outs on the same road I took to going to school awhile back. Guess there was some gang beef going on in that area at the time. Found out one of them happened around 30mins after I went down that stretch of road and could have been caught up in it and take a stray round. Keep up the great work!
How do you intend to mount the armour into the door? The frameworks and mounting of armour is going to be a design challenge you'll have to work around- the material and mounting system where the door interfaces with the armour and the space between armour plates (unless you mount a single monolithic plate into the door) represent potential points of failure- projectiles can pry joints apart and slip between plates or tear them away from their mounts. I'm eager to see the solutions you develop to work around these issues,
An vehicle armorer I spoke to told me they use "Liquid Nails," but they use Spectrashield (by 3M) impregnated with an epoxy resin. They then cut out the single sheet to fit the shape of the area of the vehicle they are attaching it to.
I imagine custom staggered plates behind the seams? That’s what I’d do if I couldn’t do a monolithic plate
Are you adding a gun port for return fire because if your windows are 3 inches thick they obviously are not going down and you also can’t shoot thru your door for obvious reasons
Hey I have a question about the HDPE armor segments you tested: can they be recycled? Like, could you take one of the used plates that's full of holes, remelt it into a square, and it'd be just as good? Or would there be degradation of it's anti-ballistic quality?
It should be totally fine to melt and reform
It would be hard to separate the non hdpe
I remember watching an episode of The A Team where Mr. T bulletproofed a vehicle using sheet metal cut from an elevator car. It worked perfectly. If only you had access to some 14 ga elevator car sheet metal.
You can use multi layers of. Twelve ounce woven fiberglass welding blanket or kevlar. Next for the glass hyguard Make a polycarbonate MS1250.
"QUESTION " !!! I have cut up ALOT of milk jugs so far, Do you use the bottoms of the jugs?? also , before I cut up the large side pieces of the jugs, do you use them in any way in that size ?
Hell yeah man this is awesome
Cant wait for it to be finished!
Are you concerned about the integrity of ceramic if the car travels on rough terrain or people slam the door?
Great job but did you beef up the suspension before all these upgrades? If not it's to top heavy.
If the plates are getting close to 15lbs per sqft, doesnt it make more sense to use 1/2" ar500?
Also what are the weights of the two plates you'll be using?
@@swegmastur614 those ended up being around 12 lbs per square foot. I'll check my notes and give you the exact number soon, it was on the lighter end of 12 I believe for the 30 layer one, might scale up light too. Now the main reason I can't use ar500 is cost. I considered it though, if I can find a close by distributor for it. Shipping for heavy steel is insane lol. I also hear its a pain to cut and weld.
But there might be some of it used around the engine block, and the grill
@@Techthisoutmeow sporting good stores have target steel but only in small panels
You should make the windows smaller dude. Why have larger windows? More window to make.
Why did you use mild steel instead of something like RAEX 500 or RHA steel?
Been waiting for this for a long time. Super excited to see it start
Love the content king 😎
Thanks brother, more coming soon! Working on the glass now, let's hope it works as intended
Removing that reinforcing bar at the lower end of the door will compromise side impact safety unless one is up armoring with AR500 panels. "Soft" armor will not protect you from a side impact collision.
Good old youtube. My notification for this showed up 4 minutes ago.
luckily you got it, plenty of my subscribers don't lol
cant wait for the follow up
I’m autistically fixated on using a rubberized polyethylene to affix ceramic to a plate to help with breakage and crumbling. I imagine it keeping the ceramic together. Even like silicone and stuff too. Something rubberized.
Im hoping my armorment will allow for front windows to be opperable,at least
I'd be interested to see how a single ceramic tile with 25 layers of fibreglass with the steel backer holds up
very nice
When you’re making your allowances for weight, don’t forget to account for the weight of people, weapons, and equipment and for the weight you discarded like that window motor.
What about welding ar500 targets together?
Im looking to bulletproof a 4runner by making a ar500 steel box out back and welding ar500 panels to the inside of door and engine wall
Anytime I’ve welded AR500, it makes the steel much softer where the heat was highest. Ultimately I was able to shoot thru the plates about 1” from either side of the welds.
Seems to me you could use 30 layers of woven roving and half inch steel plate. Maybe less than a half inch? Idk how much weight it would be but that woven roving stuff is super strong.
The 30 layers didn't look that thick. Half inch? How heavy is it? You should try 2 or 3 inches of it. You said the door can hold up to 4 inches of material and if a half inch stops bullets imagine what 3 inches would stop. Sounds like a good .50 cal test lol.
Love the series and hopefully you come up with some game changing stuff for us hands on folk. I look forward to what you come up with for the radiator, tires and gas tank. Maybe that woven roving can solve most of your problems without alot of weight.
Great videos
Would porcelain perform better than the ceramic
I used to buy 1 foot x 1 foot squares of ar500 straight off Amazon to make my targets. It would stop 7.62x54r with just a 3/8 plate
I've always wanted to do this but with extra cheap 3a vest's or AR500 armor plates I can buy 2nd hand off people for cheap who got scammed into buying some
I guess the series is over. But I think he would have been better off if he just went for an old compact single cab truck like an S10 or Ranger. He would have had way more payload available add-on to "increase payload" (helper springs, airbags, etc). Plus, he would have way less to bulletproof.
Could you add a discord invitation link that does not expire and does not grant temporary membership on the next video? I joined not long ago and yesterday I suddenly was not in the server anymore, and can't rejoin coz all the links are expired.
My discord got taken down brother, for violation of the TOS. Don't know what the conversation was about. So yeah, we lost everything that we had recorded on there, and I'm not sure if I'm going to make another one. Losing everything without warning like that is upsetting to say the least.
Nooo, I knew something wasn't right. Have you by any chance made a server template before it happened? The messages and members would be lost but we would at least have the ranks and all the channels, but just empty. If not I would still be glad if you made a new server, nothing fancy, five channels is enough.
Any update on the project?
nice plates bro
thanks brother, they turned out good.
A bit random but you should try to laminate 100~300 sheets of paper in side HDPE.
Have you thought about using armorcore paneling as a way to bulletproof vehicle? Good for protection. You can use basic carpentry skills to get it fitted for your vehicle.
I'm now the proud owner of three 8x5ft level 7 armorcore bullet proof sheets. I also recently picked up two 44inx44in bullet proof sheets of glass.
Now it's time to armor my truck.
Making my dream ride. Sweet.
What grade did you get? What’s the price per square foot?
Is this series still going???
But if you can afford titanium, get it; it's super light and not as strong as tungsten but lighter
T'es un génie de la bidouille
Nice to see you again oh mighty armorer.
Are you going to modify the suspension?
I have to imagine that you'll bottom it out with all that extra weight.
He already mentioned in the first video he was going to outfit is to its max load.
The tree
hi nice one ,when will be the next plz ?
nice to see how little BFD the ceramic-Eglass-mild steel one had. that would haver been survivable even if worn by a human!
For sure, there was two close steel hdpe combo's that was close. With one just being lead spray. I'll show you on discord
I would of liked if he instead tested with lead rounds as lead is denser than steel. This of course will add to the kinetic hit on impact.
@@knerduno5942 lead penetrate far less than steel, as it is infinitely softer. (wich mean projectile flatten out almost instantly compared to steel, wich mean it get stopped far sooner in the plate, wich mean far more remaining material in the plate to stop the lead and reduce the BFD)
one of the only exeptions to that rule are the case with two-parts core like 5.56 M855
but aside from that kind of odd situation, even a mild steel core will always be harder to stop than FMJ
@@gamecubekingdevon3 I would disagree. kinetic energy calculations show lead is going hit harder than steel will, considering the same size of the bullet. Since steel is less dense, thus less weight. That means the round is going lose momentum much faster than lead. I also understand since lead is denser, it will deliver its impact in a smaller surface area, which is better to penetrate a material. Better if he still did the test with both types of rounds.
@@knerduno5942 there is a reason why most armies use steel core ammo.
Same for tanks, you don t see big lead balls being shot, but instead you see thin hardened steel or tungsten alloys arrows being shot.
Lead is super soft, even softer than most plastics, it cause it to flatten instantly upon impact, spreading the energy over a large surface. Ther eis à reason why , when doing anti armor you always see cores made of hard materials and not soft ones. On the opposite soft things are good for expansion against soft targets
I do not want my conveyance broken into, so my plan isto Armor it,Strictly For My Security
Funk soul rubber!
Hey Tech,
I just received a notification that my discord account was disabled. Do you know if this only affected me or also other people?
It wasn't just you, the server got burned. I'm seeing what I can do
@@Techthisoutmeow The old one or the new one?
@@-Turtl3_ it's looking like both servers, old and new got the nuke. So did all the mods, you me zach ana gopnik ect. I'll make a post about this even, and plans of moving forward
Do you have another account yet?
@@Techthisoutmeow I sent an inquiry to the discord Support regarding my deactivation but if that doesn't change anything, I might create a second account.
Do both details, & Timelapse
So where is the rest of the vids
how about aluminium oxide sand blaster medium and epoxy resin
It sounds good, but ive seen it tested before. It doesn't work because the resin is all that holds it together. The guy even used big chunks of aluminum oxide in resin and it would punch the 3/4in chunks right out
To be honest I wouldn’t care if I have access to windows going up and down once semi bullet proof for the simple reason that just gotta have A/C compressor and all ready and properly running at all times.
Is the discord down? :(
Yep, gone, reduced to atoms. All the mods got yeeted, my account got yeeted. Server sent on a one way trip to Brazil. Soooooooo, don't know what I'm going to do. Luckily I have the contact information of a few people, so I'll see what we can do soon, hang tight. I'll know more this evening.
@@Techthisoutmeow Nooo.... we gotta make a database on a safer server, that doesn't just go puff out of nowhere on us!
If at least one window doesn't open how will you get you fast food? ;)
YUP
surprised you didn't just fill the doors with phone books
Details tell us all the details
What happened to this series?
👍🏻
Do one door different.
Yeah, I think I have too, just to test some things out. I mean, got 4 to do, plus the rear door so. might change a few things up here and there. But I want one to have a retractable window.
Nerd...
Real Life flies in ointment - if you fit ballistic glazing, it ain't gonna wind up & down. Makes Toll booths/Drive-throughs "Fun"... Most "Owners" will not live with that hassle after a week or 2 of experiencing it. If you have to open the door to pay someone, it kinda defeats the purpose. ..
Second "Fly" is the windscreen - if you fit a flat glazed ballistic version, it will look like a horses arse. Therefore it has to somewhat conform to the original profile - whereby you discover the dashboard is in the way of the new "thickness" - or else it stick out instead of in. and looks like a horses arse. Plus you now have to curve the Lexan blah blah to the same shape as the old windscreen..
Secondly/fifthly, "assassination" has changed - chances are your local friendly hitman has evolved like most have & no longer wander up clutching an AK 47 - long, long Jail terms for having one of those in your back pocket have forced "New Methods". By & large, your "Up to Date & With the Times Huffy Lad who offs people" runs you down with a nicked Audi Q7 or a BMW X5 - so maybe investing in a portable bollard that can halt a speeding SUV might be "The New Thing"... or not.. They now wait till you are out & walking about - then run you over with the 4*4 - it's hugely fashionable & also slightly harder to install thicker glazing what for "prevention"... 5-0 tend to investigate "Hit & run" events less enthusiastically than someone letting off firearms in public - which - as always - the Bad Guys have leapt on. Watch how you're talkin and where you're walkin - or you & your homies might be lined in chalk - ahem.. Not as glamorous - but very current... "Got run over" sounds a lot less news-worthy too - think on. "Guy gotta step out of that armoured car at some stage.... " is their new Logic. Then BLAM! That & the whole "Nothing you prepare for ever happens" aspect - it will be the thing that never crossed your worried mind - dancing happily into that cool party... going for a spin with a Pal - stuff you never prepped for.
nerd. do you even lift?
Just wait til I finish my cycle kek, lol.