Thanks, I plain on returning to this one again, but this time with homemade lam glass and polycarbonate. I'm going to stop rifle rounds one of these days with glass, just wait and see.
I used to work at a glazing company. We used to make our own armoured glass by gluing tones of layers of 3mm glass panels together and then stacking weight flat on top of them. Just thin layers of glass and glue becomes insanely tough once it reaches about 2 inches thick.
Thanks for the vids. Made my own with a combo of your ideas. Was able to stop 5.56 62 gr FMJ at 50 yards with 2 pieces of 6mm glass and 3 pieces of 1/2 polycarbonate. It stopped at the second piece of polycarbonate. I was shocked. Took it apart and the lexal still hadn't cured after 2 weeks and letting it air out for 12 minutes before plying it. The lexel between the 2 pieces of polycarbonate appeard to not have cured at all. Making it for replacement glass for a military vehicle I own.
This would be a great high school science project, and so relevant! All the students get to make different varieties of bullet proof glass from acrylics/polycarbonate/glass/tempered glass and they have a contest to see which stops the most bullets from a random shooter and the winning design they can make and put in all the schools windows!
I love your stuff man, you inspire a lot of the armor I make! Have you ever considered making an iron man 1 like suit (from when he is in the cave) but from your different homemade armor plating and such?
Polycarbonate flexes, acrylic shatters but when the bullet hits the acrylic it's gonna exert the energy outwards in all directions, flimsy wood holding 2 sides won't contain the acrylic, if you had say a 3/16 or 1/4 inch thick plate welded around all corners as well as 2 inches on all edges on the witness and strike face side I'm sure it would've taken far more abuse, even better to cover the outer edges with thin rubber belting to add cushion between the plastic and metal
Great video man! Very interesting. It sucks the materials are so expensive to intentionally destroy in order to test them. It makes you wonder what different combinations and thicknesses of materials and layers provides the best resistance to different calibers. Keep up the good work. Much enjoyed video.
A lawyer of glass on the front(2nd layer after polycarbonate) would probably act similar to a layer of ceramic does for your opaque armors Make sure you get anneled glass and not tempered
For sure! I did another video on this channel a while back that was also bulletproof glass, and that used polycarbonate and glass rather than acrylic. The problem was keeping it together after it was shot, however, now I know how to make laminate glass! I got the stuff to do it, so I think that plus this method (or something similar) will yield great results for the vehicle I'm trying to build!
@@Techthisoutmeow what adhesive has worked best for you? I couldn't find anything that looked like it would work well with plastic and glass while being clear and curing anaerobically. I only gave it a fairly basic search though
@@pedoslayer yeah those guys are silly, they should've just created a 5 inch thick square of this glass with a little gunpory and rolled around on wheels. "We are the transparent borg, resistant is futile"
You should try clear epoxy instead of that Lexel glue stuff. Seems like epoxy would be a lot stronger and it will cure chemically by itself, you don't need to expose it to air for it to "dry".
Hi just wanted to say thank you as you were the insperation for me copying my multicurve plates and making my own rifle rated ones. Its a very ambitious project i admit but your help as well as much other researching im finnaly going after it! Thank you so deerly :)
This videos are amazing! I've never done a project like this but you are filling me with confidence, making me want to try for myself. Thanks very much for making these.
Nice job man. What would the difference be if on each piece of acrylic and pc a piece of bullet resistant film is put on? Would it wreck the clarity and would the pc and acrylic still be able to stick to each other? Do you have helmet plans? I'm working on a Maximus gladiator helmet and want some bp glass for the parts of the face not covered by the helmet, just don't like the thickness
I have been looking into films lately, because the next step would be to try and make laminated glass, that would be even stronger than acrylic. However I would be limited to flat shapes, so there's gonna be a trade off. I like the helmet Idea! and Yeah, getting bulletproof glass that is both thin, light weight, and capable of stopping the bigger boys will cost money. However if I can find a way to both form glass and make it laminated then we'll be in business!
It was hard to determine which of the 4 squares you were shooting, I didn't even realize you had changed them at once point. This is a great video, and it's very informative.
Great video as always! Curious as to which round will penetrate furthest into bullet resistant glass, 9 mil, .40 s&w, or .45 acp? Looking at experimenting with my own glass
Good work guys. …Even though i hate that ppl test 12 ga with anything other than slugs. Buck shot will never do more than .38, or 9mm, or a slug. but 12ga slugs are unique animal.
It would be cool to see how these handled at angles. If you made a visor out of two pieces stuck together at a 30 degree angle, you might be able to stop a rifle from the angle the person is looking. I think this is mostly for windows, but still an interesting project.
That is a cool idea! I mean straight on shots are the worst possibility. But angling might improve ballistic proformance is some instances. Humms, I'll remember this next time I revist this project, just to see if there's an improvement or anything, thanks for the comment!
Hey just a comment on your helmet idea. What if the entire face was a solid rounded composite with no view to the outside but with aluminum mirrors redirecting light in such a way to see just fine. I believe this method might have the least amount of optical distortion if the alignment is right, you might have a much narrower view or maybe not depending on how its all shaped.
Have you tried polycarbonate 1/4” affixed (somehow) to automotive glass? I’m interested in not replacing automotive glass but instead reinforcing the glass to stop a 9mm round.
These next few should be real good. I'm starting a comparison series to test other plastics, metals, ceramics, composite fabrics, and resins for there ballistic performances! Should be a good time
Hello! What if someone just layered the Acrylic/PC sheets in front of each other without gluing? Would that still stop bullets? Say for example you built some type of framed edging, then slid the sheets into it, no glue.
for satellite protection they are using a very thin plate that Starts breakup of projectile before impact of satellite armoring - works amazing well - there is a video on yt about it
More to come soon enough! till my next video check out my community tab on my youtube channel for updates, and make sure to subscribe! And if your interested in building armor yourself, you might like to check out this channels discord group: discord.gg/kPTcdbJ
Idk how I’m only seeing this channel now? UA-cam algorithm must’ve been trying to suppress it? But awesome video! I look forward to seeing more of your projects come to light!
Suggestion, what about using many thin layers instead of two or three thick layers. This may help prevent a layer from cracking and taking out the whole piece.
I'm curious about an armor plate with 1 layer thin ceramic, 1 layer of this polycarbonate, and then the fiberglass/resin backer. I would guess you could keep it about 1 inch thick total. Or even try the acrylic as a replacement for the ceramic, but I think the ceramic would be better for rifle rounds.
what are your opinions on pulling a vacuum on the stack as it cures? Do you think there would be an advantage? or just more issues than its worth (the bag tearing due to sharp edges, resin adhering to the bag, or curing issues because of no air)?
Hey what state are you in? I live in wa and am going to be building a ICF home with wall thicknesses of 12”. I want to build my own windows and am looking for the best way to do it. Are you in wa too? If so I’d like to buy some materials for you to test out for me.
Hey there from a new subscriber! Thanks for the awesome vids! Would you be able to do a video on how to make "bullet resistant window film" or security window film as they are called?
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium_oxynitride well, this is the powder they press and polish, and the main company that does AION (by that I mean the company that invented it) is really the only place you can buy it
@@Techthisoutmeow I don't know whether it's my search engine skills, or what, but I've been having a bear of time trying to find this, and others, powder.
@@Techthisoutmeow Thanks for the link. I'm sure I've been there, before. For me, the limiting factor tends to be: Who should have this technology, and to what end?
Have you thought about using the same material that are used to protect iphones and stuff.. sapphire glass sheets, I think it could do a lot of damage to the projectiles even using a relatively thin layers as a front
They use PVB (poly vinyl butil ) film to glue glass to plastic. It is opaque when new but get clear when heat is applied, it also glues when heat applied
Just Found Your Channel through Taefladermouse Awesome work Man!! I been researching this for a while!! Maybe a window film between layers to help a small amount...When I was in the Military I know when our BPA window glass had a gel like film inside after they were shot or blown up!😁 I wonder what it was!?
Just learned about your site from watching Talfladermous testing your HDPE plates. Very good work you are doing. May I suggest using a vacuum pump and bag system to clamp your HDPE plates and polycarbonate items. I have not reviewed much of you material yet, perhaps someone has already suggested it.
I know this is an old video, but for anyone who's considering attempting this, I have a suggestion. The clamping method could be improved. rather than clamping the edges, consider a bookbinder's press. It's designed to deliver pressure straight down and distribute that pressure evenly. I think that would eliminate the following issues. First, the sliding. if the plates are positioned in the center of the press, I don't think they will shift when clamped. Second, your delaminating issue. If you're correct that your issue was caused by having clamped too tight, a bookbinder's press would give consistent results. Third, uneven pressure should be mitigated. I've never tried any of this, but I think that would be an improved method for clamping flat panels, especially small ones such as those you've demonstrated. In addition, you said that your material was moldable and you wanted to make more complex forms, I think you could use something like a vacuum form table to clamp the layers together. Don't know. That may affect your bonding agent though. last thing. If you do choose to make complex forms, consider this. Your material has a thickness. What I mean to imply is this, the outside surface of your poly sheet will have a different form than the inside surface. You will need to make a different mold for each layer. If there are four layers, the inside of layer four should perfectly conform to the outside of form three, and so on. Figure out what you want your finished 'volume' to be, then work backward from there. Like I said though, I've never done this and there are probably flaws with my ideas, so consider the mechanics of everything I said before you do anything I said.
Another glass to try is chemicaly hardened glass (like gorilla glass) . It may be produced at home (Applied science UA-cam did it) . Basically you get a plane of glass stick it in a metal container filled with potassium nitrid (or nitrate don't remember) and get it to 400+ °C for some time.
Instead of clamping move to a vacuum bag method you'll have no bubbles you be able to do complex shapes there will be no pressure differentials even complex shapes shirt evenly in less time but the best part about it is all of your chemicals binders will be evenly dispersed because the vacuum effect makes it all impervious to gravity
What about using windshield glass out of a car that has that safety glass plastic layer inside thoughts essentially 2 layers of glass safety annealed glass with plastic lining. Shouldn't be too expensive for you if you went to a junkyard
I wanted to try my hand at making laminated glass, pretty much what your talking about. that stuff is real tough. I would love to buy a junker and try armoring it up, I think that would be a sweet project.
It should be set up with the Poly on the putter layers and the acrylic inside + a piece that of real glass (closer to the outside of the acrylic - so like this: half polly, half acrylic, 3/8 glass, like car glass, half acrylic, 1/4 poly
Im so curious what the results would have been if all the glass had been fronted by a sheet of glass... I think that would have made a big difference.. It would be like if you were to install it in peoples homes behind their ordinary windows.
Make one like the last one but seperate the layered slightly with a piece of poly framed between each layer and allow gas exits in the sides of each layer so expanding gas can exit somewhere else then the back
@@ameritus9041 thanks! It's really growing now, this next video should be up soon, probably by next week. We're getting a huge amount of snow up where I live at the moment. But it'll be a comparison video on ceramic strike faces vs 7.62x39 fmj! Should be a real good time
@@Techthisoutmeow could you please write the configuration that you recommend? Sorry I am not English-speaking so I would like to have it correctly. It is for safety so if you could write the best one version I will appreciate. I am living in a third world country so this information is very important. Also will work witouth glue between layers?
If it blew the backplate off though, it doesn't matter that it stopped the bullet, because now you have shards of the backplate strapping your eyeballs
I'm actually really impressed with your results. Well done.
Thanks, I plain on returning to this one again, but this time with homemade lam glass and polycarbonate. I'm going to stop rifle rounds one of these days with glass, just wait and see.
Hopefully, your channel grows and you can get a slow mo camera. It would really help see what's going on with each shot.
Man that would be nice, one day lol.
Make enough of these vids, get enough subs, which you will 😉 and you'll be making videos on a whole nother level in no time!
@@Techthisoutmeow try covering it with Kevlar and see what happens
Bro your channel is totally underrated, you should be at a few hundred Ks. Gonna be watching u religiously now.
Thanks man, more to come soon!
These are great videos. Well structured and easy to follow along with. I'm glad I found your channel and I hope it takes off, it deserves to.
Thanks man, let's hope it does. Either way, I'll keep working on stuff!
I used to work at a glazing company. We used to make our own armoured glass by gluing tones of layers of 3mm glass panels together and then stacking weight flat on top of them. Just thin layers of glass and glue becomes insanely tough once it reaches about 2 inches thick.
Ah yes, laminated glass. What glue did you use? PVA?
I've been attempting to do something similar is why I'm asking
Asking again as there's still no answer
Thanks for the vids. Made my own with a combo of your ideas. Was able to stop 5.56 62 gr FMJ at 50 yards with 2 pieces of 6mm glass and 3 pieces of 1/2 polycarbonate. It stopped at the second piece of polycarbonate. I was shocked. Took it apart and the lexal still hadn't cured after 2 weeks and letting it air out for 12 minutes before plying it. The lexel between the 2 pieces of polycarbonate appeard to not have cured at all. Making it for replacement glass for a military vehicle I own.
This is very interesting. Did you alternate the sheets or sandwich one? I am also building a fortified vehicle to be ideally at least Level III
This would be a great high school science project, and so relevant! All the students get to make different varieties of bullet proof glass from acrylics/polycarbonate/glass/tempered glass and they have a contest to see which stops the most bullets from a random shooter and the winning design they can make and put in all the schools windows!
I love your stuff man, you inspire a lot of the armor I make! Have you ever considered making an iron man 1 like suit (from when he is in the cave) but from your different homemade armor plating and such?
Polycarbonate flexes, acrylic shatters but when the bullet hits the acrylic it's gonna exert the energy outwards in all directions, flimsy wood holding 2 sides won't contain the acrylic, if you had say a 3/16 or 1/4 inch thick plate welded around all corners as well as 2 inches on all edges on the witness and strike face side I'm sure it would've taken far more abuse, even better to cover the outer edges with thin rubber belting to add cushion between the plastic and metal
Also if you space the layers 1/16" apart and fill with clear UV resin it'll provide a similar cushion to PVB as well as help prevent delamination
Great video man! Very interesting. It sucks the materials are so expensive to intentionally destroy in order to test them. It makes you wonder what different combinations and thicknesses of materials and layers provides the best resistance to different calibers. Keep up the good work. Much enjoyed video.
A lawyer of glass on the front(2nd layer after polycarbonate) would probably act similar to a layer of ceramic does for your opaque armors
Make sure you get anneled glass and not tempered
For sure! I did another video on this channel a while back that was also bulletproof glass, and that used polycarbonate and glass rather than acrylic. The problem was keeping it together after it was shot, however, now I know how to make laminate glass! I got the stuff to do it, so I think that plus this method (or something similar) will yield great results for the vehicle I'm trying to build!
@@Techthisoutmeow what adhesive has worked best for you? I couldn't find anything that looked like it would work well with plastic and glass while being clear and curing anaerobically. I only gave it a fairly basic search though
the 2 dislikes are criminals wanting to rob an armored truck
Tehhe north hollywood shootout
@@pedoslayer yeah those guys are silly, they should've just created a 5 inch thick square of this glass with a little gunpory and rolled around on wheels. "We are the transparent borg, resistant is futile"
You should try clear epoxy instead of that Lexel glue stuff. Seems like epoxy would be a lot stronger and it will cure chemically by itself, you don't need to expose it to air for it to "dry".
Hi just wanted to say thank you as you were the insperation for me copying my multicurve plates and making my own rifle rated ones. Its a very ambitious project i admit but your help as well as much other researching im finnaly going after it! Thank you so deerly :)
Found an old comment from you haha, well I'm glad to have inspired you hommie, your stuff is fantastic!
This is awesome, learned a lot and this is exactly what kind of video I was looking for.
So hdpe mixed with silicon carbide grit of various grit sizes to produce a plastic concrete
This videos are amazing! I've never done a project like this but you are filling me with confidence, making me want to try for myself. Thanks very much for making these.
Nice job man. What would the difference be if on each piece of acrylic and pc a piece of bullet resistant film is put on? Would it wreck the clarity and would the pc and acrylic still be able to stick to each other?
Do you have helmet plans? I'm working on a Maximus gladiator helmet and want some bp glass for the parts of the face not covered by the helmet, just don't like the thickness
I have been looking into films lately, because the next step would be to try and make laminated glass, that would be even stronger than acrylic. However I would be limited to flat shapes, so there's gonna be a trade off. I like the helmet Idea! and Yeah, getting bulletproof glass that is both thin, light weight, and capable of stopping the bigger boys will cost money. However if I can find a way to both form glass and make it laminated then we'll be in business!
It was hard to determine which of the 4 squares you were shooting, I didn't even realize you had changed them at once point.
This is a great video, and it's very informative.
Awesome channel been watching for hours!
Thanks brother, more to come soon
Very educational 👍
I'm jealous of your range , it looks like you just get to step outside the house right into the yard .
I need to move .
Haha, I wish this was my back yard, but it is close to home. and thanks! more to come soon.
Great video as always! Curious as to which round will penetrate furthest into bullet resistant glass, 9 mil, .40 s&w, or .45 acp? Looking at experimenting with my own glass
Good work guys.
…Even though i hate that ppl test 12 ga with anything other than slugs. Buck shot will never do more than .38, or 9mm, or a slug. but 12ga slugs are unique animal.
This is great! I can't wait to see more!
wishing you the best!
Thanks! more to come soon enough!
It would be cool to see how these handled at angles. If you made a visor out of two pieces stuck together at a 30 degree angle, you might be able to stop a rifle from the angle the person is looking. I think this is mostly for windows, but still an interesting project.
That is a cool idea! I mean straight on shots are the worst possibility. But angling might improve ballistic proformance is some instances. Humms, I'll remember this next time I revist this project, just to see if there's an improvement or anything, thanks for the comment!
Oh man a helmet build sounds amazing.
How about neck and groin armor designs too?
@@sephcrow oh for sure! Full helm, multi curved chest plate, side plates neck, groin. And back of course lol
Keep up the good work! I hope to see some more videos soon
Neat what you can do with plastic, how is your hdpe ballistic plates project going with the annealing process.
Hey just a comment on your helmet idea. What if the entire face was a solid rounded composite with no view to the outside but with aluminum mirrors redirecting light in such a way to see just fine. I believe this method might have the least amount of optical distortion if the alignment is right, you might have a much narrower view or maybe not depending on how its all shaped.
Or cameras and screens
Have you tried polycarbonate 1/4” affixed (somehow) to automotive glass? I’m interested in not replacing automotive glass but instead reinforcing the glass to stop a 9mm round.
Just found this channel from another channel, can’t wait for more videos!
These next few should be real good. I'm starting a comparison series to test other plastics, metals, ceramics, composite fabrics, and resins for there ballistic performances! Should be a good time
@@Techthisoutmeow oh dang that’s gonna be exciting!
Hello! What if someone just layered the Acrylic/PC sheets in front of each other without gluing? Would that still stop bullets?
Say for example you built some type of framed edging, then slid the sheets into it, no glue.
for satellite protection they are using a very thin plate that Starts breakup of projectile before impact of satellite armoring - works amazing well - there is a video on yt about it
Just learned about you from TAOFLEDERMAUS, come back! I need more lol
More to come soon enough! till my next video check out my community tab on my youtube channel for updates, and make sure to subscribe! And if your interested in building armor yourself, you might like to check out this channels discord group: discord.gg/kPTcdbJ
Great work! Looking forward to another HDPE (hopefully with annealing?). Personally interested in more ballistic shield and helmet/mask projects!
HDPE video incoming! I've been really busy over the last few months, but I'm back at it now.
Idk how I’m only seeing this channel now? UA-cam algorithm must’ve been trying to suppress it? But awesome video! I look forward to seeing more of your projects come to light!
Suggestion, what about using many thin layers instead of two or three thick layers. This may help prevent a layer from cracking and taking out the whole piece.
Just found your channel. Good stuff man.
Thanks brother, I'll have a new video on bulletproof glass coming out soon.
@@Techthisoutmeow awesome. I'll try to share your stuff as much as I possibly can.
Hi - Instead of more powerful caliber - what would the less construction to handle 1-2 shots from a 9 mm - thanks Todd from South Africa
I'm curious about an armor plate with 1 layer thin ceramic, 1 layer of this polycarbonate, and then the fiberglass/resin backer.
I would guess you could keep it about 1 inch thick total.
Or even try the acrylic as a replacement for the ceramic, but I think the ceramic would be better for rifle rounds.
what are your opinions on pulling a vacuum on the stack as it cures? Do you think there would be an advantage? or just more issues than its worth (the bag tearing due to sharp edges, resin adhering to the bag, or curing issues because of no air)?
What about multiple thinner layers of the lexan/Lucite with the poly?
Hey what state are you in? I live in wa and am going to be building a ICF home with wall thicknesses of 12”. I want to build my own windows and am looking for the best way to do it. Are you in wa too? If so I’d like to buy some materials for you to test out for me.
Hey there from a new subscriber! Thanks for the awesome vids! Would you be able to do a video on how to make "bullet resistant window film" or security window film as they are called?
Man you deserve more subscribers
You are awesome ..
Thanks for the kind words, the channel will get there one day.
Have you found any source for AlON powder?
I'm also curious as to where you got pricing for finished thicknesses.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium_oxynitride well, this is the powder they press and polish, and the main company that does AION (by that I mean the company that invented it) is really the only place you can buy it
But you can find the powder online
www.surmet.com/technology/alon-optical-ceramics/index.php Here's where I've found the finished product for purchase.
@@Techthisoutmeow I don't know whether it's my search engine skills, or what, but I've been having a bear of time trying to find this, and others, powder.
@@Techthisoutmeow Thanks for the link. I'm sure I've been there, before.
For me, the limiting factor tends to be:
Who should have this technology, and to what end?
Yeah the Uparmourded glass had that stuff you use here. It was 9 pane.
Have you looked at other transparent ceramics as a strike face? I wonder if nanodiamond powder mixed into the resin would do anything.
Have you thought about using the same material that are used to protect iphones and stuff.. sapphire glass sheets, I think it could do a lot of damage to the projectiles even using a relatively thin layers as a front
Very cool ... you'll figure it out one way or another..
I Subscribed 👍
What if you used Clear Epoxy for the Bonding. Would it make it withstand Super Sonic Rounds?
Awesome video. Crazy that you could stop all those .44 mags
Right! man, that rifle was the best. did you like the intro?
O yea definitely was epic the soundtrack was amazing
Hahaha
Nice video! What is the name of the clay that you use in the back of every armor, for testing ? Thanks!
I see you used Lexel. I can only find it as clear caulking. Is there a special kind that you used?
Flexing on us with those Guns
can lexel be used if add or use a regular or tempred galss to laminate it together?
or lexel for only is just for acrylic and polycarbonate?
Poly is EXPENSIVE!!
@BEES MNS aw e some
Thanks a lot for this great research!
Be inspired !!!
Try putting a metal frame with rubber seal that tightens down to hold pressure and it would probably work better but that is just a thought!!
They use PVB (poly vinyl butil ) film to glue glass to plastic. It is opaque when new but get clear when heat is applied, it also glues when heat applied
Just Found Your Channel through Taefladermouse Awesome work Man!! I been researching this for a while!! Maybe a window film between layers to help a small amount...When I was in the Military I know when our BPA window glass had a gel like film inside after they were shot or blown up!😁 I wonder what it was!?
Just learned about your site from watching Talfladermous testing your HDPE plates. Very good work you are doing. May I suggest using a vacuum pump and bag system to clamp your HDPE plates and polycarbonate items. I have not reviewed much of you material yet, perhaps someone has already suggested it.
I know this is an old video, but for anyone who's considering attempting this, I have a suggestion. The clamping method could be improved. rather than clamping the edges, consider a bookbinder's press. It's designed to deliver pressure straight down and distribute that pressure evenly. I think that would eliminate the following issues.
First, the sliding. if the plates are positioned in the center of the press, I don't think they will shift when clamped.
Second, your delaminating issue. If you're correct that your issue was caused by having clamped too tight, a bookbinder's press would give consistent results.
Third, uneven pressure should be mitigated.
I've never tried any of this, but I think that would be an improved method for clamping flat panels, especially small ones such as those you've demonstrated.
In addition, you said that your material was moldable and you wanted to make more complex forms, I think you could use something like a vacuum form table to clamp the layers together. Don't know. That may affect your bonding agent though.
last thing. If you do choose to make complex forms, consider this. Your material has a thickness. What I mean to imply is this, the outside surface of your poly sheet will have a different form than the inside surface. You will need to make a different mold for each layer. If there are four layers, the inside of layer four should perfectly conform to the outside of form three, and so on. Figure out what you want your finished 'volume' to be, then work backward from there.
Like I said though, I've never done this and there are probably flaws with my ideas, so consider the mechanics of everything I said before you do anything I said.
Another glass to try is chemicaly hardened glass (like gorilla glass) . It may be produced at home (Applied science UA-cam did it) . Basically you get a plane of glass stick it in a metal container filled with potassium nitrid (or nitrate don't remember) and get it to 400+ °C for some time.
Good Show (raising your algorithm)
Thanks!
Instead of clamping move to a vacuum bag method you'll have no bubbles you be able to do complex shapes there will be no pressure differentials even complex shapes shirt evenly in less time but the best part about it is all of your chemicals binders will be evenly dispersed because the vacuum effect makes it all impervious to gravity
Maybe surfboard resin might work as a binder it's clear and really strong
I've done professional driving and courier before. Was thinking of making a bulletproof divider.
You might want riot glass more in that situation as more of you customers will be violent and destructive than ballistic threats?
@@CheZfrmdaWestWisc I'm not worried about that. I can handle my self. Getting shot is a different story.
What about aluminum oxynitride? Would it work well?
Awesome frkn Work Guys!!🙏🙏🙏💙💙💙
Thank you, more to come. I'm not stopping til I make glass that can stop rifle rounds under a 3 in profile!
What about using windshield glass out of a car that has that safety glass plastic layer inside thoughts essentially 2 layers of glass safety annealed glass with plastic lining. Shouldn't be too expensive for you if you went to a junkyard
I wanted to try my hand at making laminated glass, pretty much what your talking about. that stuff is real tough. I would love to buy a junker and try armoring it up, I think that would be a sweet project.
i may try a 2 part acrylic or polyurethane, and sand the sheets, but i'm not going for transparency, and may wrap them with kevlar or 1050d
Hmm if you're not going for transparency there's definitely much better option out there in terms of weight and flexibility I'd think
It should be set up with the Poly on the putter layers and the acrylic inside + a piece that of real glass (closer to the outside of the acrylic - so like this: half polly, half acrylic, 3/8 glass, like car glass, half acrylic, 1/4 poly
Im so curious what the results would have been if all the glass had been fronted by a sheet of glass... I think that would have made a big difference.. It would be like if you were to install it in peoples homes behind their ordinary windows.
Why use acrylic? I thought polycarbonate is way better. Maybe test on a sample of all polycarbonate layers?
Make one like the last one but seperate the layered slightly with a piece of poly framed between each layer and allow gas exits in the sides of each layer so expanding gas can exit somewhere else then the back
God I'm late 🤣 great video. I just turned three guys online on to your channel I hope it helps.
Thank you! Every little bit helps! One day I'll have a bunch of subs
Havent heard from you in a while. Hope youre doing ok.
I've been good, life has been preventing me from progressing my armor projects. However, there'll be a new update video up soon, so stay tuned!
I was just thinking this same thing. This channel is great. I've been trying to share it with people.
@@ameritus9041 thanks! It's really growing now, this next video should be up soon, probably by next week. We're getting a huge amount of snow up where I live at the moment. But it'll be a comparison video on ceramic strike faces vs 7.62x39 fmj! Should be a real good time
There's some type of plastic like window tint that is bullet resistant. ???
Please tell me you are going to build an impregnable suit of armor. Full body style
Yes! full suit builds are coming up!
So it seems the second one performed the best.
This is awesome
Coolest channel dude
help me understand: why use acrylic or plexi at all? why not just use more polycarbonate?
Next time you take a deer with that revolver please record it, I'm pretty interested in see it, thanks.
How about using clear epoxy?
Hope you get patreon soon i can only imagine these videos are pricey to pyt together
Which version is the strongest one?
That's a good question, they all preformed well, however I would say the one with the thickest piece of acrylic in the middle was the best so far.
@@Techthisoutmeow could you please write the configuration that you recommend? Sorry I am not English-speaking so I would like to have it correctly. It is for safety so if you could write the best one version I will appreciate. I am living in a third world country so this information is very important. Also will work witouth glue between layers?
@@skaford great question about unglued layers 🤔
If it blew the backplate off though, it doesn't matter that it stopped the bullet, because now you have shards of the backplate strapping your eyeballs
It's a work in progress, if bonding was better it would stop it from delamination. It's not a finished product
That 1911 is an affront to john browning
8'x8' welding blankets on Amazon for $29. Harbor Freight 39.99
I'll be using some of this in a new video!
You should try C-Bond Systems products
Awesome
You should use resign to glue them together.
Just a fyi. Shooting these unmounted is completely different than shooting a armored vehicle window that wont move. Alot of energy lost.
Smart guy
Never heard a 44mag carbine make the same sound as a 9mm before. Maybe just the mic.
try chain mail, namely a low density shredder
hollow sphere mail, too
Would be great for chronographs
I wanna see the helmet design!!!!