1963 MacGregor M1W Persimmon 3 Wood - DIY Golf Club Restoration
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- Опубліковано 29 чер 2024
- 1963 MacGregor M1W Persimmon 3 Wood
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CHAPTERS:
0:00 Introduction and first look
1:30 Overview of steps
2:25 Whipping removal
2:45 Sole plate finishing
3:14 Stripping
3:28 Sanding
3:46 Pre-stain conditioner
4:05 Staining
4:48 Grain filler
5:12 Polyurethane - first coat
6:22 Smoothing first coat
6:37 Polyurethane - second coat
7:22 Whipping
7:42 Wrap-up and final look - Розваги
“There’s no greater feeling than pureing a club like this” is absolutely right! Recently picked up an old set of #Pings that came with 1 thru 4 Woods (maple). For the hell of it decided to give them a whirl, an absolute blast! I bring the driver with me each round, show whoever I’m playing with and they can’t help but smile and want to try it. The sound and feeling the club makes is amazing! I’d like to restore them as well.
Late comment here…I did the same. 1988 Full eye 2 set 2 thru SW with 1,3,5 Laminated Maple woods. Amazing how durable they are and, actually easy to play.
Beautiful!!!
Beautiful, and correct, best feeling hitting the center of one of those
Good, like the brushless paint.
Great. Thanks this video
Just did this process on 2 sets of woods the last couple days; they turned out very nice, thanks, Brad!
That's great. I'm glad it turned out. The dip in the Polyurethane is the most satisfying part for me.
Very nice. I’ve got an old set of persimmon woods that need this treatment.
Give it a try. It's very rewarding when you do it yourself.
Lovely, glad you dipped it in poly ... I still have my permission woods from 1983 ... been inside house since I took them out of bag ...
Thank you. Greatest feeling when you hit one pure!
Great work captain… my grandad had a full set woods & irons! I used to caddy for him before I start playing - I remember them well. All the best from Wales 🏴
Sounds like good memories! Cheers!
The man is on fire 🔥
awesome
Thank you. I have some old drivers similar to that one and the varnish is peeling off. Now I know what to do!
Awesome 👏. I just got a couple of older wood Titleist that I want to do the same thing to. “This tree saw wars and shit” 😂
Lol! Welcome to the channel!
I have two complete sets of the tourneys from the 50’s and 60’s. I’ve been told they were the club to have back then and when I started playing golf about 30 years ago, those were the clubs I used and almost every round I played, somebody recognized them from the two color leather wraps on the grips and offered me money for the set. I guess they’re not worth so much anymore but I don’t want to just throw them away. 2:02
Love this vid, great work. I’m wondering if you have done any restoration of any blonde laminated pings? I’m picking up a set of 1 through 7 and would love to breathe some new life into them, but I’d love to watch you do it first though ha! Thanks
Those will look gorgeous. I did a set of Ping Eyes (black) and they turned out great. One tip - be SURE to tape off the red face insert when you strip the old poly. The stripper will melt it. Not kidding.
One of my best ever shots was a ping 3 wood 230yards to three feet from the pin. Then missed the birdie putt 😂 Looking out for persimmon now. 😮
"Then missed the birdie putt" lol. Sounds like my luck!
@@BradMeehan golf eh
My wife was watching the dipping process with me. Her comment: "He's so tidy!"
Haha. My wife laughed and said, "Yeah, right."
$26 in 1963 = $251 today.
Can’t wait to see this finished product
These clubs have a lead plug insert under the base plate. It is about 1/2” deep and over 1/2” in diameter. This effectively reduces the “sweet spot” to the key insert on the face. I have been able to widen the sweet spot by removing the lead, drilling a 3/8” diameter hole from inside the existing hole 5/8” deep towards the toe and a bit kess toward the heel. I weigh the kead that has beeb removed and install 2/3 of the molten lead towards the toe and the remainder to the heel. The existing plig hole is epoxied flush and the sole plate reinstalled with new screws. The new sweet spot is 1-1/8 inch wide, an 89% improvement.
Had one of these in my hands a few hours ago. I really don't need another hobby, but the result at the end is... inspiring. Nice work and it only took 8 minutes and 37 seconds... not. How much time was hands on?
Most of the time cut from the video was in the drying between coats of poly, stain, and wood filler. I wait a day between coats of poly so I can rough it up with the steel wool. The rest is easy stuff can be done in an hour tops. It's a fun hobby and very rewarding. Definitely try it.
This is unreal... great job!
Just curious, once you applied the first coat of polyurethane i noticed you sanded it down... can i ask why the need to do that before the second coat and also what did you use to sand it down?
I used a fine steel wool to flatten any high spots on the first cost and give the second coat something to "bite" onto. You could also use a wet 1000 grit to do the same.
I bought a set of older Ping persimmon fairway woods and driver and was wondering if it was something that could be easily restored like this. Beautiful work. Once I get finished restoring the Ping ISI-K irons I will restore these to go along with them in my daily bag.
Absolutely. I recently did a set of black Ping Eye 2 woods from the 90's. One challenge I had is that I wanted to stain them, but found that once I stripped the old paint, I found there was a lot of filler used that wouldn't take stain so I had to repaint them. Be sure to tape off the insert on the face before you strip the paint or they will melt. Blond Pings may be different, but I haven't done a set yet. You can get away with using any black spray (flat), then do the dip of the club with the poly. Also, I have a little trick I did to mask off the face. Let me know when you're ready and I'll make a short video to show you how.
@@BradMeehan that sounds great. I have some black Ping woods coming as well that will more than likely be going back black depending on what is underneath. From the photos, the first set of woods coming look like they will be good staining candidates to take them back to their original wooden glory. It will be a couple weeks before these get delivered and I can get the ISI-K irons and wedges restored, then I will start in on the woods.
@@WH6FQE I'm looking forward to see how they turn out. Please share if you can.
@@BradMeehan I will try to upload a video when I get them finished. A few of these ISI-K irons have some deep gouges in the leading edge of the sole that I am trying to sand out. I forgot how difficult stainless steel is to sand by hand, lol.
Pings are laminated not persimmon.but same steps apply
I have a 693T driver that has a bubble in the top coat of finish. I am new to refinishing. can I sand it down and redip it or do I have to strip it and completely redo it thanks you are a big help
You can get away with scuffing with some fine steel wool and reducing. Worse this than can happen is you strip and redo it it.
Thanks for sharing. How did you match the stain to the original?
I brought it to the store to hold it up against the samples. Some of the catalogs list what color they were.
great stuff! - how long in real time did the whole process take?
The drying of the poly is the time consumer. If you let it properly cure, it's a days between coats. The rest took MAYBE 2 - 3 hours tops to strip, sand, and re-wrap the whipping.
Awesome video! What is used to make the black drivers like the video where you showed how to polish? I have lots of black Ben Hogan woods that I want to refinish but Im not sure what type of coating that is?
Thanks man! Im addicted to your videos!
Thank you. I believe those are hard lacquer paint. Check out my "ceramic face" video where I demonstrate the Preval sprayer. That may work for the lacquer application. Be sure to cover the face insert COMPLETELY with tape or something before you put paint stripper on the club or it will melt the face.
I've refinished a black Ping Eye with black spray paint and dipped it in the Polyurethane, bit it cracked over time with regular play. If you're just looking to hang it on a wall, then that's a good option.
Great video, thanks! Just one observation on the whipping, it didn't look like you were putting much tension on the thread? I was taught that if your hands aren't bleeding when you are finished, it is not tight enough?
You're correct. The whipping I was using wasn't very good and it snapped midway and I rewrapped. I decided instead to finish this off, then do a full whipping video to show how to start and finish the wrap. I'll be sure to include that tip! Thanks Graeme!
@@BradMeehan Where do you purchase the whipping? Also, do you just replace the grips with any “modern” grip? Beautiful job by the way. I’m about to embark on my new hobby and restore my 1st club.
@@davidmagen5916 I'm glad you're going to give it a try. I bought the whipping on ebay. I generally replace the grips if I'm selling or giving them away. You can find leftover new stock on ebay if you search for 'vintage golf grips' if you want to stay close to the original look. If you're going to play it, I'd use something more modern but with a classic look. It's personal preference at that point. Let me know how it turns out.
Be sure to mask off the face of the woods before using paint stripper or it will melt.
@@BradMeehan Thanks for the tips, Brad! Cant wait to get all my supplies and start doing some restoration. Ty!
Last question, I hope. Was the sole plate on when u put it in the polly
Yes. I dip the whole thing. Leaving it with a little brushed look will help with the adherence to the sole.
Anybody know of a place to buy replacement face inserts, or a DIY on how to make one?
what is the stain color on the red vintage Macgregor woods that you refinished
I have a oil hardened Chicago Classic the head looks similar to the m85w of Macgregor same color insert and 6 screws who made this club? it has a HG75 number on the head. thanks in advance for your help
where can I buy whipping line? I am refinishing some of my old persimmon Armour woods and need the whipping.
I bought it on ebay. There is some waxed, but if you dig around you'll find the nylon. I've also heard it called sail thread.
What grain of sandpaper did you use on the metal plate?
Also, I have a wooden Ping drive with a metal plate on bottom and it appears that the gold is stripped showing silver underneath. What do you recommend to repaint the gold on bottom?
The sanding block is just a generic foam sanding block that said "medium" grit. Then I use a scour pad to smooth it a bit.
I'll look into the coloring question. it's something added to the poly that you dip it into.
What sandpaper grit did you use for the sole plate and for sanding the wood itself?
I start with 400 and get more aggressive if I have to on larger scratches. All the scratches we introduce, we have to take out so this is less work to start light and adjust as needed. This is the lazy man's approach.
May I ask you or anybody with a workable answer, Whats your advise if you find a massive crack or break under the Whipping? Thank you in advance.
I've read you can epoxy it, but I can't speak to the longevity of that approach. If it's just for you, I'd say give it a try but I wouldn't sell it like that.
@@BradMeehan thank you. I agree. There's got to be something out there that makes it pretty strong where it's somewhat playable.
Hey when you dipped it in polyurethane I assume you left the brass plate on. Is there any worry about cracking or separation along the seam where the brass meets the wood. Doing a putter very similar. Thanks
The old-timers say if the sole plate (or face insert) is loose, it will crack. However, you'll see scuffing before you see cracking if you intend to play it.
@@BradMeehan yea im also worried about that. 3 out of four brass screws stripped so I drilled them out. Any suggestions? I was going to epoxy and gently clamp them in place. One of the holes got massacred when I drilled it. It is a putter so a little less vulnerable. Thanks
I played with one of those.
I hit one on the range last night. I think I was 6/10 on getting it to fly, and i popped 2 of them up so high that they may still be up there. But it was fun!
What about clubs with a decal on top? I have some spalding clubs I would love to refurbish
Check out waterslide printer paper. It's similar to the decals used on old school plastic car model kits.
Any advice on repairing cracks ?
Where is the crack? Epoxy would work, but it's not recommended if it's on the neck.
Some of the old MacGregors look like they have a black paint finish on them. Can that be stripped off to bare wood and then just finished as you did here?
Yes, but that paint seeps into the grain so it's hard to refinish as a stained wood appearance.
@@BradMeehan So, what's the best option? What sort of paint would you use to touch things up?
@@craigscott3133 I did a set of Ping Eye 2 with a flat black enamel spray paint then dipped it in the poly then it was dry. I did 4 coats of Polyurethane.
I redid them for my friend who's dad passed away. His dad would always buy him left handed clubs whenever he saw one at a thrift store. The Pings were one of those clubs that his dad gave him that he still plays today.
I am refinishing a m75w 3 wood when should I put the white in the face emblem before the final urathane coat or before the coat
I did a single coat, then used a sharp pick to clear the lines, added paint, then another coat.
This way you can screw up and wipe it away and retry. I always seem to build in an escape route in case it sucks.
Can you do a test on a junker club?
@@BradMeehan I have about 20 old tourney and armour clubs to refinish I will try one first
@@stevewolf6424 I'm glad you're trying it. Send me some pics along the way.
What should I use for the sole plate?
It depends if you want it polished or brushed. For brushed you would use sandpaper (maybe 400 grit) to make STRAIGHT lines. This will help the poly adhere to the sole plate. You can also polish it like I did in my Titleist video for a high gloss finish, but the poly may run off and you'd have to do more than two coats.
Brad, I am trying to renovate some woods. Is there somewhere where I can buy the transfers/stickers to place on the woods before I use the final coat of polyurethane
Have you looked into water transfer paper? That may be an option.
Brilliant, thanks Brad
great job, do you think you could hit it lol
Anyone can hit it... where it ends up is another story!
Did you reset the head? Insert?
Hi, Mike. For this one, I did not, but I do understand the necessity of doing it.
Also, if you're the same Mike Rees from the John Erickson video, I learned a lot of this technique from you. So, thanks for sharing.
Any guidance on the size of frearson screws (or replacement screws) to use on Mac faces and sole plates?
you forgot the tack cloth to get the dust and any impurities off the club.
also when for the tommy armour
how do you price your restoration on regular irons?
At this point I just do it as a hobby.
@@BradMeehan Thanks for the reply, what do you do if there is scratches and dents in the club face/ grooves?
@@39compton it depends on if the dent is in the wood or in the plastic insert. I sanded the face (including the insert) with 500, then 1000 grit paper to smooth it. Then you can polish the insert with the automotive polishing compoundto make it shine. If you have a dent in the wood, you can "swell" the wood by wetting it, then putting a wet cloth over the dent and touching it with a soldering iron. The heat raises the grain to remove the dent.
How did u fix the insert
I sanded it with fine paper on a piece of wood to stay flat.
Don’t you need to consider bulge and roll of these faces? If you use piece of wood to keep sandpaper flat, might you destroy the bulge and roll? Not saying these will be played, displaying would not need either. Great work.
@@gilbertklip7202 That's a good point - especially on the face. I'd also avoid using power tools to do any sanding, as you will change the shape of the club more rapidly.
Still trying to figure out why you wouldn't take 2min and just remove the 4 screws and the sole plate....?
I don't have a frearson bit or replacement screws. I didn't re-set the face either.
@@BradMeehan not sure why you would neither either...? There are 5* phillips screws in the sole plate. Simply take them out, remove the sole plate, sand and polish. Stain the head, then put the sole plate back on with the same screws - just make sure you get them threaded back in the same grooves. 👍
@@BradMeehan if anything loose the poly will crack
@@neilcameron3021 thanks, Neil. I'm learning!
Can you replace shafts on pressimon??