I cannot believe it took me this long to come accross your channel bud. My gosh how much time you could have saved me if i only knew and watched you from the start a few years back
So glad I found your channel! Thank you for doing everything on the cheap and your explanations are so much fun! I’m looking forward to watching many many many many more of your videos and hopefully trying out your techniques.
Your videos are so addicting!! I stumbled on them this morning working 12 hours. I have watched a few now and they aree interesting!! I think most golfers like good looking clean clubs!! I subbed your channel too!!
Hi Brad, thanks for the vids... I say vids instead of videos because I simply do not have the time to type the extra I O :).... I am wondering if it's possible to do a batch plating all at once? Grind, sand, polish, etc, to an 8 -10 club batch of irons, then put all of the heads in to the solution you made up in the video? Thank you.
Yes, but here's the catch: your anodes need to be about twice the surface area of the item you're plating, so you'd need a pretty hefty sized nickel anode to keep up with plating onto the club heads. I do more of an assembly line where I have one in the plating tank while I'm polishing the next so there's no time for the club heads to start corroding again.
This video is what inspired me to have a go at nickel plating. I’ve literally just built the tank with aeration and a heater..I’m just waiting on my chemicals to have a go at this. Thank you 🙏🏼
@@BradMeehan I’m having next to no success with it all. I’ve converted my white vinegar into nickel acetate, I have heat and circulation and two nickel plates on the positive and the bar across the top on the negative. I’ve set the voltage to 3 volts and tried at 4.5 and still nothing plates...my copper bubbles but just seems to barely get anything on it even after 45 minutes...what’s wrong??
@@BradMeehan I’ve tried with copper pipe and I’ve also tried with a stainless steel club head...I’ve even degreased and acid pickled the items too...I’m so confused
@@brianhull5125 any way to check the voltage across the anode to the bar? Hold positive lead on the anode, negative on the bar and see if you have 4 volts?
I watch your beautiful video more than 5 times, and I enjoyed every time. Great job, really great job from a wonderful man. Thanks bro. I wish you do it with chrome once time on another beautiful chromic thing. I like it. I searched lot and didn't find a Applicable video But It was so simple and so professional also. I've been looking for it a lot. ❤❤❤❤ Thanks man Love u from Iran.
Perhaps a hook solution that goes into the hosel in order to not have the exterior of the heads touch the suspension? I was mildly concerned that the touching points might look slightly different from the rest of the head? Or get less build-up of nickel in those spots?
@johnnychristo4895 you can use vinyl paint to cover areas you don't want plated, then use thinner to remove the paint when you're done. Or try taping it off, but the tape could "leak" if it's not good adhesive.
Thanks Brad, your videos are great! I'm learning so much and may incorporate this into my golf club hobby builds. Some of my family and friends have golf clubs they don't want to part with, but are looking quite beat up at this point!! In regards to this video, can you not do more than one at a time or did you only do this one golf iron for the purpose of simplifying how to do this? Thanks.
I do one at a time so I can tackle it in an assembly line way - meaning, I can plate a club while i'm sanding/polishing the next. They start to corrode if the bare steel is left sitting. Also, the size of the anode needs to be about twice the surface area of the item that you're plating. These little anodes aren't big enough to handle more. If you have a bigger setup, you can do multiple. Also, I'm lazy and a mega-procrastinator.
I love watching your videos, I'm a actually starting my new job as a club fitter, so exciting!!!. Your videos are actually helping me learn alot about the craft. I have so Mizuno MP14's, I got them cheap in a goodwill, some were not in great condition. I'm missing the 7 and 9 iron but their amazing to hit. The problem is the groves, they seem like they were grinded down with a dremel. Can this be be fixed with copper? Make a video on this, please! Thank you for the videos, keep them coming.
@davidwood351 Yes it can. I now hang thr club upside down by the hostel. The container needs to he taller to do this so I use a plastic flour storage container.
Ya thats probably the best set up i have seen yet cheers bro for posting i couldnt get nickel in large enough size guitar strings are nickel wound but went with nickel welding rods think they are 50% nickel so not as shiny but did the job and not rusting...
Quick question if I sent you clubs could you do a video and charge me instead of me screwing things up. This could be a lucrative business users sending clubs in to be refinished. I have a set of mp64's I would like done. I also have mp54's depending on if you do and price maybe I send you both sets. Either way love your channel and will watch all content you put out.
How does the plating come out directly where the copper cradle touches the club head? I would think it leaves a bare spot or a small divot or something since the wire is touching it.
Do you find that using an airstone with very fine fast moving bubbles work better or does an airstone that produces larger air bubbles work best? Also, do you put the airstone directly on the item you are plating or a distance from it so the solution is just circulating and moving?
Hey , really like the video and I found it very informative. The only thing I can't find out is whether or not nickel plating in this small a size gives off harmful fumes or not. I can't find a straight answer any where on google
@@BradMeehan Hey Brad, I will do! I have a question for you - The T-Zoids have a pretty degraded chrome plating. I'm thinking about sanding it off by hand, or using a hydrochloric acid to pull it off the nickel underneath... Would that be how you'd go about it? I thought about trying reverse plating to remove the chrome, but it seems like quite a toxic and dangerous process, as it is actual chromium not brightened nickel, so was keen to avoid it...
@@Angelokwells Acid is the fastest. Legal disclaimer: I would research the safest method for your application. I'm just a dude in my basement shining old golf crap. I got C's in school.
Hello Brad can you go thru all the items needed and a more in-depth video on how to make n get the correct supplies to make one to diy my clubs. Thank you. These are awesome dyi videos
Was drinking coffee when you said “for my homies” and I spat it out all over my couch in laughter, I will be sending you the dry cleaning bill !!, but thanks for the info! Save me money and gives me confidence to DIY this!
Awesome videos brother. I found it easy to understand & follow your instructions. However, i read your description & you stated you used "nickle strike" before you submerged the part in the Nickle Bright Solution. I don't recall seeing you demonstrate using that procedure. Do you think you could do a quick video on that? Once again, awesome videos & tutorials. Thank you & Go! Pack! Go!
@@WfRamsey77 She does! I usually show her in person the progress I'm making but she still likes to watch the final video. She says they're really satisfying to watch - especially on the full restoration videos where i don't talk. Haha.
Ok so my husband has been getting so many golf clubs and it's overwhelming. At 11:17 there is a white rack next to your tv where you store multiple clubs. 🙏Do you mind if I ask where you got it from? It would help solve my problem at home :). Thanks!!!
Hello, this is my wife. She claims that the clubs I own take up a lot of space but in reality it only takes up about 20 square feet. That being said could you please help so I can regain half of my space back. Thanks 🙏👍🏽
Hilarious! It's an addiction, for sure. The rack I use is just a wire drawer organizer like the one in the link below. It was in our storage room so I repurposed it for the clubs. They slipped perfectly into the sqares of the drawer and each row of squares held a full set of clubs. Here's a picture of one. It might not be the same brand, but the idea is the same. You'd just have to look at the size of the squares in the basket to make sure they fit: amzn.to/3EMHHsX
@@BradMeehan Thanks Brad! I appreciate the response! I'll definitely look into getting a rack that is best suits the space I have - again...20 square ft. Thanks again!
love this shi!!!!!!!! Definitely inspired myself!!! Would be curious to see some different finishes with golf shafts, a nickel plated golf shaft with matching head would be bada$$$
3 to 5 volts seems to be best in this small tank. I'm still learning, but that's been the nest result. The good news is, you can polish it and redo it easily if you're not satisfied.
i get nervous about the power source. Do you have a video about what is the best one to use? is any of this dangerous? between the electricity and the chemicals... just curious if there is info already out there about those steps and processes.
@@BradMeehan ok so not gonna get electrocuted lol. Also I found your post that showed how to get a power source and you cut the wires but then what? What and how do you connect the alligator clips to the wires. Again sorry for being a moron with electronics
excellent video! If you repeat the process several times, can several layers of plating adhere? At how much voltage did you supply the plating tub? How did you remove the plate from the golf clubs? regards Thank you very much for the video greetings from Monterrey Mexico!!
Check out this link: ua-cam.com/video/VRiefpq1iVs/v-deo.html This is how I removed the old finish. You can replate it again buy you'll have to reactivate the nickel using a nickel activation solution (also sold by those guys) for it to bond.
I forgot to answer the voltage question: I started with 4.5 volts and 1 amp, but lowered it to 3.5 volts and .5 amp on the second club but let it plate longer.
if i were to plate a round piece of steel 1.25" diameter and 25" long will this work or do i need more voltage/amps, i want plating to be as thick as i can get it. thanks and very good presentation
Check out my Electroless Nickel video. That may be a better option for this use case. But yes, you'd have to do a bit of math. There's a calculator on the Caswell site to help with power requirements for your parts. It takes into consideration the entire surface area to be plated.
Do you need to use the wand and nickel activator before putting the clean clubhead into the bath? I see on here you didnt do that but on that beautiful vokey video you did brush the head woth nickel activator. Thanks brad!
@@BradMeehanwhen you sandblast before, do you have to block/seal/cover the area you sandblasted before you dip? ..and if so what’s your recommended method of doing that?
@@DrunkPenguinCo No, you plate directly over it or it will rust/corrode again. You can blast after, but I've gotten too aggressive and blasted off some plating. Now I'm gun-shy and do it first. It will still look textured under the plating.
What kind of power supply do you need for doing your plating - VDC and Amps? I have a set of Maxfli TM-92 Australian Blades that I have been playing for 20 years and I love them but they have gotten little dings and dents all over them from clanking around in the bag over the years and I would like to restore them to like new again and am doing some research.
I believe that because I check on it so often that it jostled around on the hook to avoid marks. I may just be getting lucky. If you notice in my newer videos I've been hanging them by the hosel to avoid this. You'll need a deep enough container to do it this way. Works great and avoids potential marks.
When you strip a club head by reversing this method, would you then be able to use the cathode as an anode to put the chrome back on after smoothing out the club head?
Sorry I missed this. I don't think you can re-chrome like that. Caswell sells chrome plating kits, but it's expensive (to me) and there are safety concerns.
Actually the anode is supposed to he twice the size of the item you're plating so on this small tank, I do one at a time. Also let's me do an assembly line where i can polish one while another is plating.
@tylerlim5669 you just have to spray it with the bead blaster. There's a cheap handheld one in the equipment links. Check out my video on the Tommy Armour 845 to see how I do it.
Does the piece that's being plated show any blemishes at the points where it rests on the copper hook? Do you move it around periodically? Great video, thanks
It could. I've adapted my tank to be taller so I can hang it from the hosel now. I bought a plastic flour container and it's a good size. Check out some of the newer videos to see what it looks like. The rest is the same setup.
More questions. 1. The amount you have used in this bath, how many club heads can you treat with this? 2. I have seen nickel plating liquid, this was 3 years ago, if you were still using electro plating have you refined your process? 3. I know the electro is more work than electroless, but do you have a price difference, I want to start this way first, on a budget?
@thebloodyshambles these are good questions. I'll go in order. 1. You can do as many as you want provided you keep the solution clean. The nickel anodes themselves are what get depleted, but you can do a lot of clubs before they're depleted. You will see them being eaten. For reference, I've never changed my nickel solution since I made the video. 2. I now use a much taller container and hang the club by the hosel. I also have much bigger anodes. I'll do an updated video soon. 3. Elecroless is more expensive but much easier. You also have to buy an additional solution as the replenisher. This is because the nickel comes from the solution, not an anode. If you learn th electroplating method, you will have a much better learned skill because now you can electroplate other metals like copper, chrome, etc, using the exact same method. There is no other difference for the DIY projects than the type of solution and anode metal that feeds it.
Great video, totally new so forgive me… but is there any fumes that come off of the solution? Just wondering about any precautions to take when setting up to plate a club. Thanks!
I wonder if this would work with plastic, like for model kits? Trying to find a good chrome that is durable for plastic is really tough ... or very expensive. Great video. Thanks...
Too long could result in pitting. I leave mine in for around 2 hours, but some say 30 minutes is enough. the longer its in the solution, the thicker the plating, but you're also risking imperfections.
So, I did my first wedge with steps youve put in video. Got all my stuff from caswell. It turned out great. I then prepped and did a 2nd wedge, and it came out with a black/chrome spiral finish...found out that my cable that connected the annodes dropped into the nickel solution during the plating process (im guessing some plastic got melted off). I tested with another club and got some "icky" results. I'm wondering if the solution got contaminated and if there is anything a guy can do to clean the nickel solution or do I need to start fresh with new crystals and nickel brightener? thanks for any help!
Hi Ben. Contamination is a possibility if something falls into the solution because it will also release lositively charged metal looking for a negatively charged part. Some forums say you can filter it through a fish tank carbon filter. Have you tried polishing the swirly one after? Does it shine?
I've only replaced my anodes one time since I started and have been using the same solution. I'd recommend getting a large anode or two straps. You generally want it to be twice the surface area of the part you're plating.
This is awesome. I'm going to follow these steps and see if I can't restore some life into older clubs that I have laying around - specifically some old wedges. I saw a comment response earlier where you said that you stop at Nickel because Chrome plating isn't DIY friendly. What makes that the case? The amount of power required, cost, safety? Thanks!
My sweet spot is 3.5 v, .5 amps. I'll caveat that with I'm a DIY'er and always learning and perfecting the steps. There's a formula to follow on some plating forums, but experimentation got me to those values. There are links in the description to buy the anodes from my affiliate store or check out Caswells site. I leave it in for 2 or 3 hours total. Just need to make sure you have plenty of distance between the Anode and club to avoid pitting as it builds up.
Hey Brad, your videos are awesome!! BTW, what is that yellow device you use to rechrome your golf clubs and where or which number do you set to use this device? Thanks in advance!
Is this how companies that refurbish clubs do it? How does this hold up over time afterwards? Let’s say 1 golf season? And if it’s not going to hold well then is there anything you can do to make it more durable?
Nickel isn't too difficult and it can come out very pretty and good protection too. It's not chrome, but also... the advantage is that it's not chrome. Rumour has it you can also add a layer of rhodium plating on top as another home option, but i haven't tried.
I've evolved the process to hang it upside down by the hosel. Check out some of the newer videos to see how that looks. I never noticed it in the finished plating but it's definitely a potential. It was more noticeable when I do the copper. The upside-down approach is best
Hi Brad, hope you are well? Thanks for all the nice videos and information. I am in South Africa and running in some problems because of our products that differ a little. Is there any way to get into contact with you, need some help? Regards Willie
Indefinitely if you keep it clean. The nickel anodes continually feed the solution. The nickel that doesn't stick to the club remains in the liquid. That said, you will have to replace the nickel anodes as they are being eaten as you plate. Hope that makes sense.
@@BradMeehan Makes sense yeh. This might sound dumb but essentially, why would you wanna plate the club head ? couldn't you leave it as is after simply polishing ? Thanks a lot for the knowledge
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I cannot believe it took me this long to come accross your channel bud. My gosh how much time you could have saved me if i only knew and watched you from the start a few years back
Thank you!
This is the channel I’ve been looking for.
Awesome. Thank you.
Same!!
Ditto and bravo!
Btw, hope things are going ok with your Mom.
Yessir
Agreed
Best plating DIY video! Loved how you kept it simple, but highly informative. Keep up the great videos.
Thank you for watching
What are you using for a power supply? Or did I miss something?
"for my homies" LMAO! between that and your framed photo of Eric Estrada on the mini fridge, I like your sense of humor
Framed and SIGNED photo of Eric Estrada! Thank you!
The coolest people in the comments
So glad I found your channel! Thank you for doing everything on the cheap and your explanations are so much fun! I’m looking forward to watching many many many many more of your videos and hopefully trying out your techniques.
Your videos are so addicting!! I stumbled on them this morning working 12 hours. I have watched a few now and they aree interesting!! I think most golfers like good looking clean clubs!! I subbed your channel too!!
Thanks! I'm glad you found the channel. Happy to help and you work through your projects.
When plating nickel, the copper wire was not plated, was it okay?
You should see nickel on the copper of it's clean and connected correctly (and it's actually copper)
This really is a game changer. I haven't looked yet but I hope you put the clubs back together so we can see a finished product.
Hi Brad, thanks for the vids... I say vids instead of videos because I simply do not have the time to type the extra I O :).... I am wondering if it's possible to do a batch plating all at once? Grind, sand, polish, etc, to an 8 -10 club batch of irons, then put all of the heads in to the solution you made up in the video? Thank you.
Yes, but here's the catch: your anodes need to be about twice the surface area of the item you're plating, so you'd need a pretty hefty sized nickel anode to keep up with plating onto the club heads. I do more of an assembly line where I have one in the plating tank while I'm polishing the next so there's no time for the club heads to start corroding again.
Well... I have to try this now.. i have these clubs. Im not s handy person at all but youve inspired me... Thank you. Your channel is brilliant
This video is what inspired me to have a go at nickel plating. I’ve literally just built the tank with aeration and a heater..I’m just waiting on my chemicals to have a go at this. Thank you 🙏🏼
Very cool. Hit me up with questions. I learned it all from UA-cam videos and reading forums.
@@BradMeehan I’m having next to no success with it all. I’ve converted my white vinegar into nickel acetate, I have heat and circulation and two nickel plates on the positive and the bar across the top on the negative. I’ve set the voltage to 3 volts and tried at 4.5 and still nothing plates...my copper bubbles but just seems to barely get anything on it even after 45 minutes...what’s wrong??
@@brianhull5125 Is there chrome on the iron? Or you're still testing on a piece of copper?
@@BradMeehan I’ve tried with copper pipe and I’ve also tried with a stainless steel club head...I’ve even degreased and acid pickled the items too...I’m so confused
@@brianhull5125 any way to check the voltage across the anode to the bar? Hold positive lead on the anode, negative on the bar and see if you have 4 volts?
Good job Brad! Love the kegerator!
This is great! Been wanting to try this out for a while
I watch your beautiful video more than 5 times, and I enjoyed every time.
Great job, really great job from a wonderful man.
Thanks bro.
I wish you do it with chrome once time on another beautiful chromic thing.
I like it.
I searched lot and didn't find a Applicable video
But It was so simple and so professional also.
I've been looking for it a lot.
❤❤❤❤ Thanks man
Love u from Iran.
It turned incredable, thanks for sharing it!
can't beat that with a stick.... good job..
Thank you
Perhaps a hook solution that goes into the hosel in order to not have the exterior of the heads touch the suspension? I was mildly concerned that the touching points might look slightly different from the rest of the head? Or get less build-up of nickel in those spots?
I completely agree. In hindsight, I would have made my tank a bit deeper so I could hang them from the hosel.
Nice ☺️. One question how do I stop some surface areas becoming chromed?
@johnnychristo4895 you can use vinyl paint to cover areas you don't want plated, then use thinner to remove the paint when you're done. Or try taping it off, but the tape could "leak" if it's not good adhesive.
Can you use Nichrome to electroplate?
Is that the same as the Copy Chrome?
Thanks Brad, your videos are great! I'm learning so much and may incorporate this into my golf club hobby builds. Some of my family and friends have golf clubs they don't want to part with, but are looking quite beat up at this point!!
In regards to this video, can you not do more than one at a time or did you only do this one golf iron for the purpose of simplifying how to do this? Thanks.
I do one at a time so I can tackle it in an assembly line way - meaning, I can plate a club while i'm sanding/polishing the next. They start to corrode if the bare steel is left sitting. Also, the size of the anode needs to be about twice the surface area of the item that you're plating. These little anodes aren't big enough to handle more. If you have a bigger setup, you can do multiple. Also, I'm lazy and a mega-procrastinator.
This is really cool! I would love'd to try it for my drums hardware and lugs 🔥🔥🔥 thanks so much forthis awesome video tutorial!!!
@@ninsdenso2809 you're welcome. Check out my video in electroless plating. It's even easier.
ua-cam.com/video/f487RuyG1AY/v-deo.html
I love watching your videos, I'm a actually starting my new job as a club fitter, so exciting!!!. Your videos are actually helping me learn alot about the craft.
I have so Mizuno MP14's, I got them cheap in a goodwill, some were not in great condition. I'm missing the 7 and 9 iron but their amazing to hit. The problem is the groves, they seem like they were grinded down with a dremel. Can this be be fixed with copper? Make a video on this, please! Thank you for the videos, keep them coming.
That's what's up those nickel plated clubs are some 🔥
Question:
Does the wire hook prevent plating where it contacts the club?
Are there any marks ?
@davidwood351 Yes it can. I now hang thr club upside down by the hostel. The container needs to he taller to do this so I use a plastic flour storage container.
Ya thats probably the best set up i have seen yet cheers bro for posting i couldnt get nickel in large enough size guitar strings are nickel wound but went with nickel welding rods think they are 50% nickel so not as shiny but did the job and not rusting...
That's great. I'm glad you gave it a try.
Just found this channel I love this video I am going crazy buying old sets and this is perfect for me.
Quick question if I sent you clubs could you do a video and charge me instead of me screwing things up. This could be a lucrative business users sending clubs in to be refinished. I have a set of mp64's I would like done. I also have mp54's depending on if you do and price maybe I send you both sets. Either way love your channel and will watch all content you put out.
How does the plating come out directly where the copper cradle touches the club head? I would think it leaves a bare spot or a small divot or something since the wire is touching it.
Check out the latest videos. I've been hanging the clubs upside down by the hosel to avoid it.
Do you find that using an airstone with very fine fast moving bubbles work better or does an airstone that produces larger air bubbles work best? Also, do you put the airstone directly on the item you are plating or a distance from it so the solution is just circulating and moving?
I put it directly under it. I've only owned this one air stone, so I can't compare to something with larger bubbles.
Hey , really like the video and I found it very informative. The only thing I can't find out is whether or not nickel plating in this small a size gives off harmful fumes or not. I can't find a straight answer any where on google
Excellent video, thanks for taking the time to make it. Can I send you some clubs? Lol
I'm still learning!
Your videos are always fantastic! Thank you
Thanks, I'm working on a new project now! Can't wait to share it with you.
Fantastic,I have some old Ping Zings. I’ll give it a shot,lol
You may not have to plate those. You can probably just polish them to like-new condition
@@BradMeehan ok. I’m going to by a grinding wheel… I’ll polish first. I do want to try some plating though. You do beautiful work. Thanks Brad.
Man, these videos are the shit. Thanks bro! Fixing up some T-Zoids... have a bench grinder coming... next build is the plating station!
Nice, Angelo. Send me some pics!
@@BradMeehan Hey Brad, I will do! I have a question for you - The T-Zoids have a pretty degraded chrome plating. I'm thinking about sanding it off by hand, or using a hydrochloric acid to pull it off the nickel underneath... Would that be how you'd go about it? I thought about trying reverse plating to remove the chrome, but it seems like quite a toxic and dangerous process, as it is actual chromium not brightened nickel, so was keen to avoid it...
@@Angelokwells Acid is the fastest.
Legal disclaimer: I would research the safest method for your application. I'm just a dude in my basement shining old golf crap. I got C's in school.
Ah, I see you're using the chrome remover. Do you have a video that covers removing chrome? Would be hell keen to see how the wizard is doing it!
@@BradMeehan I feel like that legal disclaimer should apply to both you and I... Haha. Cheers Brad!
where did you buy the chrome plating kit from? Everything from Caswell?
Hello Brad can you go thru all the items needed and a more in-depth video on how to make n get the correct supplies to make one to diy my clubs. Thank you. These are awesome dyi videos
For sure. This is on my list. In the mean time, there is a link in the description to all of the equipment i use in the videos.
Good video sir thank you, how to electroplate nikle and copper coating on aluminium.
I haven't done it buy here is a link to more information
www.finishing.com/80/41.shtml
Was drinking coffee when you said “for my homies” and I spat it out all over my couch in laughter, I will be sending you the dry cleaning bill !!, but thanks for the info! Save me money and gives me confidence to DIY this!
Awesome videos brother. I found it easy to understand & follow your instructions. However, i read your description & you stated you used "nickle strike" before you submerged the part in the Nickle Bright Solution. I don't recall seeing you demonstrate using that procedure. Do you think you could do a quick video on that? Once again, awesome videos & tutorials. Thank you & Go! Pack! Go!
Gonna start doing this! I constantly bring home various clubs from garage sales and thrift stores.
Me too. It's a problem.
I added an equipment list to the description
@@BradMeehan you da man!
@@BradMeehan I bet your wife or significant other loves it as much as mine…
@@WfRamsey77 She does! I usually show her in person the progress I'm making but she still likes to watch the final video. She says they're really satisfying to watch - especially on the full restoration videos where i don't talk. Haha.
best vid on youtube , cheers
Great video. Could something similar be done to my Ping ISI nickel irons?
I don't think you'd have to plate them. You could likely get away with just the polishing steps.
Ok so my husband has been getting so many golf clubs and it's overwhelming. At 11:17 there is a white rack next to your tv where you store multiple clubs. 🙏Do you mind if I ask where you got it from? It would help solve my problem at home :). Thanks!!!
Hello, this is my wife. She claims that the clubs I own take up a lot of space but in reality it only takes up about 20 square feet. That being said could you please help so I can regain half of my space back. Thanks 🙏👍🏽
Hilarious! It's an addiction, for sure.
The rack I use is just a wire drawer organizer like the one in the link below. It was in our storage room so I repurposed it for the clubs. They slipped perfectly into the sqares of the drawer and each row of squares held a full set of clubs. Here's a picture of one. It might not be the same brand, but the idea is the same. You'd just have to look at the size of the squares in the basket to make sure they fit: amzn.to/3EMHHsX
@@jonrilla3 At least you don't hide them from her. That's your best argument here. "If you can hide clubs, you can hide a body."
@@BradMeehan thank you so much for your fast response. I appreciate it!
@@BradMeehan Thanks Brad! I appreciate the response! I'll definitely look into getting a rack that is best suits the space I have - again...20 square ft. Thanks again!
love this shi!!!!!!!! Definitely inspired myself!!! Would be curious to see some different finishes with golf shafts, a nickel plated golf shaft with matching head would be bada$$$
You did not mention about power supply needed. What is the voltage applied and current setting.
3 to 5 volts seems to be best in this small tank. I'm still learning, but that's been the nest result. The good news is, you can polish it and redo it easily if you're not satisfied.
혹시 남은 용액을 패수할때 환경 오염에 영향은 없는지요 수질 오염이 걱정이되는데 오수 페기 가능한지요
한국어에서 영어로 번역:
예. 급수로 배수하지 마십시오.
또한 용액이 깨끗하면 여러 번 사용할 수 있습니다. 나는 내 것을 처분하지 않았습니다.
i get nervous about the power source. Do you have a video about what is the best one to use? is any of this dangerous? between the electricity and the chemicals... just curious if there is info already out there about those steps and processes.
@mcburdiegolf I can do a more detailed explanation. But, for reference, it's about the same voltage as two AA batteries.
@@BradMeehan ok so not gonna get electrocuted lol. Also I found your post that showed how to get a power source and you cut the wires but then what? What and how do you connect the alligator clips to the wires. Again sorry for being a moron with electronics
I have a set of McGregors that I want to nickelplate, can I just tape the face over if I want to keep the face non-plated?
excellent video! If you repeat the process several times, can several layers of plating adhere? At how much voltage did you supply the plating tub? How did you remove the plate from the golf clubs? regards Thank you very much for the video greetings from Monterrey Mexico!!
Check out this link:
ua-cam.com/video/VRiefpq1iVs/v-deo.html
This is how I removed the old finish. You can replate it again buy you'll have to reactivate the nickel using a nickel activation solution (also sold by those guys) for it to bond.
I forgot to answer the voltage question: I started with 4.5 volts and 1 amp, but lowered it to 3.5 volts and .5 amp on the second club but let it plate longer.
if i were to plate a round piece of steel 1.25" diameter and 25" long will this work or do i need more voltage/amps, i want plating to be as thick as i can get it. thanks and very good presentation
Check out my Electroless Nickel video. That may be a better option for this use case. But yes, you'd have to do a bit of math. There's a calculator on the Caswell site to help with power requirements for your parts. It takes into consideration the entire surface area to be plated.
@@BradMeehan thank you much
Love this video! Maybe I missed it, but what's the voltage of your power supply?
3.5 volts, 1 - 1.5 amps is what I do in my little tank
what is the voltage and current from power supply used?
3.5 volts, 1 amp for my container size has been my sweet spot
Do you need to use the wand and nickel activator before putting the clean clubhead into the bath? I see on here you didnt do that but on that beautiful vokey video you did brush the head woth nickel activator. Thanks brad!
hello! a consultation... the sandblasting is done before or after the electroplating processes
I now do it before to avoid damaging the plating.
@@BradMeehanwhen you sandblast before, do you have to block/seal/cover the area you sandblasted before you dip? ..and if so what’s your recommended method of doing that?
@@DrunkPenguinCo No, you plate directly over it or it will rust/corrode again. You can blast after, but I've gotten too aggressive and blasted off some plating. Now I'm gun-shy and do it first. It will still look textured under the plating.
Is this brite nickel or the nickel cobalt plate aka Copy Krome
It's the bright nickel. I will invest in copy chrome next.
What kind of power supply do you need for doing your plating - VDC and Amps? I have a set of Maxfli TM-92 Australian Blades that I have been playing for 20 years and I love them but they have gotten little dings and dents all over them from clanking around in the bag over the years and I would like to restore them to like new again and am doing some research.
What are you doing with all these clubs you refurbishing? Enjoying the content. I like the “how to”
The hook doesn’t leave a mark where it touches during the nickel or brass plating process? Thanks
I believe that because I check on it so often that it jostled around on the hook to avoid marks. I may just be getting lucky.
If you notice in my newer videos I've been hanging them by the hosel to avoid this. You'll need a deep enough container to do it this way. Works great and avoids potential marks.
Great video. Well explained but you did not specify the type and power to feed the solution. I would like to try this process too. Thanks.
The details are in the description. Thanks for watching!
Thank you from Iran. ❤
How's it hold up after playing?
When you strip a club head by reversing this method, would you then be able to use the cathode as an anode to put the chrome back on after smoothing out the club head?
Sorry I missed this. I don't think you can re-chrome like that. Caswell sells chrome plating kits, but it's expensive (to me) and there are safety concerns.
Thanks so much for the video. so, i want to order the same kit as you got. please, tell me what to order. Juan
Is it possible to plate the everything but the club face? I.e. MacGregor CF4000 PT2 “Black Face” irons
You could either put tape over it, or spray paint the face with clear coat, then plate the whole club, then strip the paint so it's raw underneath.
Have you ever tried to plate anything thats subjected to heat? I'd like to know if it would hold up on something like a motorcycle part
This will work for motorcycle parts. All chrome parts have nickel underneath.
What power sourse are you using ? a battery charger or what ?
It's a DC power supply. Check out the link in the description to my equipment page and click "electroplating" to see it.
So this is the same method for applying hard chrome electroplating?
Yes. Same, just need chrome solution and anode. Look up "reprochrome" for a safe version of it
Pre-plating A golf club head. Best process to remove any old plating? Or is that even necessary?
Is there a reason you only did one head at a time or could you hang a few at the same time as long as they don't touch each other in the tank?
Actually the anode is supposed to he twice the size of the item you're plating so on this small tank, I do one at a time. Also let's me do an assembly line where i can polish one while another is plating.
Would an ultrasonic gun cleaner work the same way
For which step? The blasting part?
Is there a solution that doesn’t leave them chrome and has a matte style finish
@tylerlim5669 you just have to spray it with the bead blaster. There's a cheap handheld one in the equipment links.
Check out my video on the Tommy Armour 845 to see how I do it.
Does the piece that's being plated show any blemishes at the points where it rests on the copper hook? Do you move it around periodically? Great video, thanks
It could. I've adapted my tank to be taller so I can hang it from the hosel now. I bought a plastic flour container and it's a good size. Check out some of the newer videos to see what it looks like. The rest is the same setup.
The contact point will have a thinner layer so move it around
More questions.
1. The amount you have used in this bath, how many club heads can you treat with this?
2. I have seen nickel plating liquid, this was 3 years ago, if you were still using electro plating have you refined your process?
3. I know the electro is more work than electroless, but do you have a price difference, I want to start this way first, on a budget?
@thebloodyshambles these are good questions. I'll go in order.
1. You can do as many as you want provided you keep the solution clean. The nickel anodes themselves are what get depleted, but you can do a lot of clubs before they're depleted. You will see them being eaten. For reference, I've never changed my nickel solution since I made the video.
2. I now use a much taller container and hang the club by the hosel. I also have much bigger anodes. I'll do an updated video soon.
3. Elecroless is more expensive but much easier. You also have to buy an additional solution as the replenisher. This is because the nickel comes from the solution, not an anode.
If you learn th electroplating method, you will have a much better learned skill because now you can electroplate other metals like copper, chrome, etc, using the exact same method. There is no other difference for the DIY projects than the type of solution and anode metal that feeds it.
@@BradMeehan Awesome thank you so much for your time!
Great video, totally new so forgive me… but is there any fumes that come off of the solution? Just wondering about any precautions to take when setting up to plate a club. Thanks!
No fumes. No smell at all, really. But ventilation is recommended. Also, use rubber gloves.
@@BradMeehan Thank you! Speedy reply… much appreciated!
I wonder if this would work with plastic, like for model kits? Trying to find a good chrome that is durable for plastic is really tough ... or very expensive. Great video. Thanks...
Great job on your video, by the way. Thank you!
How long do you leave the club in the plating solution? Are there any problems if you leave it in too long.
Too long could result in pitting. I leave mine in for around 2 hours, but some say 30 minutes is enough. the longer its in the solution, the thicker the plating, but you're also risking imperfections.
@@BradMeehan Thank you!
Would’ve this work on metal motorcycle parts?
Yes. Any metal parts.
Great stuff. Easy to understand.
It'd work great for skidmarks on the back of a 5 iron.
So, I did my first wedge with steps youve put in video. Got all my stuff from caswell. It turned out great. I then prepped and did a 2nd wedge, and it came out with a black/chrome spiral finish...found out that my cable that connected the annodes dropped into the nickel solution during the plating process (im guessing some plastic got melted off). I tested with another club and got some "icky" results. I'm wondering if the solution got contaminated and if there is anything a guy can do to clean the nickel solution or do I need to start fresh with new crystals and nickel brightener?
thanks for any help!
Hi Ben. Contamination is a possibility if something falls into the solution because it will also release lositively charged metal looking for a negatively charged part. Some forums say you can filter it through a fish tank carbon filter.
Have you tried polishing the swirly one after? Does it shine?
How long should the club head stay in the solution?
The longer you keep it in, the thicker it gets. But you risk pitting. I do 2 hours ish. Some say 30 minutes is enough.
Where did you get the pump ? I can't find it
How much nickel anode or strips + brightener do you need to do a set from 3-pw ?
I've only replaced my anodes one time since I started and have been using the same solution. I'd recommend getting a large anode or two straps. You generally want it to be twice the surface area of the part you're plating.
This is awesome. I'm going to follow these steps and see if I can't restore some life into older clubs that I have laying around - specifically some old wedges. I saw a comment response earlier where you said that you stop at Nickel because Chrome plating isn't DIY friendly. What makes that the case? The amount of power required, cost, safety? Thanks!
Also, what do you do with your waste?
That is a great job.How long will the little pump last.
Best Nickel Plating. What is the Votage & current ? Thanks
I used 3.5 volts, .5 amps.
How much brightner required? U didn't tell us about weight.
How long do you keep it in the solution?
@@rustystaudt5279 30 minutes is good.
What is the power supply voltage?
Where did you get the sacrifical anodes?
How long was the club head in the solution for a decent plate?
My sweet spot is 3.5 v, .5 amps. I'll caveat that with I'm a DIY'er and always learning and perfecting the steps. There's a formula to follow on some plating forums, but experimentation got me to those values.
There are links in the description to buy the anodes from my affiliate store or check out Caswells site.
I leave it in for 2 or 3 hours total. Just need to make sure you have plenty of distance between the Anode and club to avoid pitting as it builds up.
Hey Brad, your videos are awesome!! BTW, what is that yellow device you use to rechrome your golf clubs and where or which number do you set to use this device? Thanks in advance!
What voltage do you use for power source?
About 3.5 volts and 1 seems to be sweet spot for one club in this small container. Take a look at my latest video for an electroless option too.
Is this how companies that refurbish clubs do it?
How does this hold up over time afterwards? Let’s say 1 golf season?
And if it’s not going to hold well then is there anything you can do to make it more durable?
So after you Nickel Plate them you can sandblast the face paint fill them and game them or do you have to put any kind of a coating afterwards
Absolutely. You could spray them with a bit of clear coat to extend the life, but it will scratch off eventually.
Nickel isn't too difficult and it can come out very pretty and good protection too. It's not chrome, but also... the advantage is that it's not chrome.
Rumour has it you can also add a layer of rhodium plating on top as another home option, but i haven't tried.
Question(s)
No marks left from the hanger wire touching the metal ?
Would it be better to suspend by the shaft pocket ?
You'll see in my newer videos I hang it upside down by the hosel to avoid that. It works much better.
@@BradMeehan Thank you !!! Great job on the Channel !!!
what about the part touching the hanger? does it electroplate the part in contact with the hanger or do you have to move where it's hanging?
I've evolved the process to hang it upside down by the hosel. Check out some of the newer videos to see how that looks. I never noticed it in the finished plating but it's definitely a potential. It was more noticeable when I do the copper. The upside-down approach is best
Thanks for the lesson…about ready to plate some wood tools!
Cool. Let me know how it goes. Practice on something first and know that if you screw up, you can redo it.
How long do you leave the club head in the nickeling solution?
30 minutes is good.
Hi Brad, hope you are well? Thanks for all the nice videos and information. I am in South Africa and running in some problems because of our products that differ a little. Is there any way to get into contact with you, need some help? Regards Willie
Hi Willie. Check out my DIY Golf Club Restoration Facebook group. I made it to support the channel and we have almost 1700 people in the group!
Hi Brad ! Great videos man, Love all of em. Was wondering how many times you could use the nickel plating solution before have to replace it ?
Indefinitely if you keep it clean. The nickel anodes continually feed the solution. The nickel that doesn't stick to the club remains in the liquid. That said, you will have to replace the nickel anodes as they are being eaten as you plate. Hope that makes sense.
@@BradMeehan Makes sense yeh. This might sound dumb but essentially, why would you wanna plate the club head ? couldn't you leave it as is after simply polishing ? Thanks a lot for the knowledge