My attempt at finding my electric gremlin on my t680
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- Опубліковано 24 чер 2024
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1709 GORNTO RD STE A BOX 122
Valdosta, GA 31601
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Rob, everytime you have a good load week, you wind up with a maint issue. I feel so bad for ya, going thru this roller coaster. I say, if the lights out drive it! If its intermintent and still runs ok? Drive it!!!
Drive it! Don't look back buddy!
To cover a can of battery cleaner or an extra treat for Fatt Butts. Best of luck troubleshooting this. You and Lita rock a great work ethic
Thanks Paul 😎
Robert I don’t know if you know about this but when you turn your key on to start it… First turn the key to Run but don’t start it. It will give the computers time to boot up and communicate with sensors. You can hear it going through the abs system it makes that loud clicking sound by the axles. Then once it’s done communicating with all sensors start the engine up
If you just crank the key on the truck can end up with codes and even a check engine light
@@Nathangies mine won’t crank until after all those noises
@@SouthGeorgiaHotShot don't let them do a clutch it would be a waste of money there are easy resets like the key on off quickly 7 times because auto trans in these trucks do shit like this periodically I wouldn't let it bother you to much all of our trucks do silly stuff reset it and go on since you checked connections already
I have a 24 Peterbilt with 81,000 on it. Transmission gives me faults then the code goes away. Mechanics at the shop where I work said sometimes these trucks think something is wrong when it really isn’t. 🤣🤣
You can chase error codes until you are fucking BROKE. Never buy another wiring harness. If you cant chase down the wire if it actually is a wire, then burn the truck and start over. You guys are the BEST thing on UA-cam right now. Your content is awesome and your presentation is great too. Keep it going brother.
Sounds electrical. Maybe some green crusties at a connector somewhere. You need a wiring diagram. Clear the old codes and scan for current codes. Pick a current code and chase the wires and connectors associated with it.
You need the subscriptions for the service info and wire diagrams now days.
Your clutch is fine
Hey Rob, you can try electronic cleaner from crc it works great on all your connectors. Ecm transmission module all that. FYI, dielectic grease is great, but in very small amounts, many people don't realize that it's non conductive. If you apply to much in connector pins, you'll actually make it worse. Its purpose is to keep it moisture out.
FYI for the future... Fluid Film is a great terminal cleaner and protectant.
Important for computer to get proper voltage. I think your going in the right direction. Good luck
I wish you guys were in Oregon Warren at western truck and tractor repair is the man best mechanic I have ever seen
I would call Warren and ask him what he thinks. I bet his pricing is very competitive too.
@@RaoulThomas007 You have that right about Warren.
Yep...call Warren.
I just had my clutch done in my 2016 peterbilt 579 that has an eaton fuller advantage automated transmission.
It could be the harnesss.
I replaced the transmission harness and the harness for the transmission controller and all the sensors done when I did the clutch.
My tractor had 800000 mi so don't let them bullshit you.
i live in southern minnesota.saw on facebook this morning a farmer had a nice! looking long nozed pete for sale 50 grand 800 thousand miles on it tires in back looked like they needed a change but had big bunk on it 79 model i think it said hes not far from me runs super great ad said well maintained
If you read my post from a few days ago I told you what to try on these 680s I seen them do it and it Solve the problem, Raise your hood on the left side on the firewall.You got 2 plug ends there big rolls of wire push them in tighter or move them around make a better ground see if that works for you , Normally, water does it from washing your engine
Come on over to Las Vegas, and get her fixed! Dinner is still up for grabs for you guys!
Thanks for your update
Ya got keep the truck shiny . keep up the good work!👍🇺🇸🌟🙏
I had a speed sensor that kept faulting out. Turned out it was a bad wire in the wiring harness instead of the speed sensor.
With the problem your having I would say it was a short in ur wiring harness somewhere.
I own a auto shop and have fixed vehicle from every new car dealership around my area. Codes and parts numbers are 2 different things. The part your missing is service information. You need access to service information. Even if you have to pay a subscription fee.
It's not a car .
@@richardwray5390 Yeah a machine is a machine. IDC if its a car truck or a machine in a factory. They all work the same way. They are just a machine designed to do different things. So by your logic the manufacturers of trucks make part numbers and trouble codes the same things but car manufacturers cant?
Your content is a celebration of joy. Thanks for creating such a festive atmosphere!
You definitely have a northeast truck. They use tons of salt and heavy corrosive chemicals. Great job cleaning that up.
U need to be a master mechanic today just to change the dam batteries
And if you don’t use him your warranty is voided
Whenever you have a laundry list of error codes it always an electrical problem. I would look for every ground connection on the truck and clean them.
i hate that you are having gremlins but im a old subscriber everytime this happens you guys overcome it!somehow you guys do.hope its not the start of bad omens and you guys are at mercy of people wanting to make big money!
You've figured out with good certainty that it's not mechanical, so don't get a mechanical repair until the truck won't move. It won't cost you any more then than it would now. Take the free miles between now and then, whether it's 10K miles or 300K miles.
Cleaning up connections is a good start, and helpful for preventing future faults, regardless of whether you find the connection causing the current problem anytime soon. Eventually you'll get to every connection that can easily be gotten to. Waiting for a day with more comfortable weather to do anything hard, is not a failure, it is a plan to be on top of your game rather than rushed and feeling desperate, a recipe for making mistakes.
In the meantime, start looking around for a gently used Volvo in addition to whatever else you'd want, so you can be super familiar with all your options when you get a better truck in a year or whenever. Finding a truck you can work hard for 4 or 5 years without continual worries, plus save you fuel every day, will be worth a ton of money to you. Then maybe you can move up in the pecking order by getting a trailer to do some specialty jobs, and/or just make your job easier. Maybe a Landoll.
For what you're driving and doing, I think you're doing great with what you have. If you can string together a bunch of running hard without problems, you'll have the money to get better equipment and work smarter vs harder. I think that with your trusty sidekick, there's no reason you won't be able to earn a living plus put some money back into the business to move up rather than just survive at your current level.
Without Lita, I could understand you staying on the struggle bus for a long time, or maybe going busto. With all she does, it shouldn't be a big struggle for very long.
I had same issue with my baler with intermittent wrong codes when bought used wouldn't run properly, can only be found at work not in shops, dealer came twice in the field and finally said only the operator can find it if he's a mechanic and yes i found a broken internal wire in a well protected area near one load sensor why ??? with an erratic false info from other load sensor, now baler works perfectly normal . Robert if truck drives normal keep driving it when it gets worse u'll find it
Outstanding video, thank you for sharing, you definitely don't mind getting in there and taking care of business. Good on you both!
1 the ecm can tell you and will tell you when the clutch is worn beyond limits, the clutch is just like any other clutch and is between the engine and transmission, 2 the transmission is a manual internals and air/electrically controled. 3 no way it takes 7 days to do a clutch job on these trucks, 4 j1939 is a data link, it goes to all your ecms, 8-10 of them, its the yellow/green twisted pairs, the cecu controls almost everything and is the main hub, you flip a light switch the cecu tells the light control module to turn on the light, so on and so on. 5 you need to check the water level in your batteries, apu will boil them dry in about 18 months, you will get hydrogen gas, rotten egg smell and hot batteries. 6 your issue is between the battery box front and the steer tire where it humps over the frame and the plastic tray holds the harness. 7 your issue will happen when it rains. 8 the pd harness you tried to get off and couldnt are not the harness you need to check, blow it out and and use wd40 to get it to unlock. 8 this is the only help i will give you as i am not typing all this crap again, 9 i told you what was wrong with the mack also. 20 years in a kw volvo dealer. best of luck to you.
If only he’d listen to you
Well, first of all, he doesn't have a manual transmission. He has an automatic transmission. So your reference to the clutch being between the transmission and the engine is irrelevant in this application. I believe the code that he is referring to is specifically pointing to the clutches inside the automatic transmission itself. My guess is that they have sensors inside of the transmission that can tell when the clutches are worn Beyond a certain point or are not engaging properly or functioning properly. You may potentially know some of the things that you're referring to but since you are referring to a semi truck with a manual transmission, I'm a little concerned that you're aware of what you're speaking of given that he doesn't have a manual transmission. You say you have 20 years of experience at a dealer and that is fine. I'm not going to try and contest that if it's true because I have no way to prove one way or the other if it is true or it isn't true. I'm not here to try to argue with you or try and claim that I am any better. Although I have experience in the mechanical field, my expertise is more with smaller Vehicles such as pickups and cars and SUVs and most things of that nature. I have worked on a few larger trucks here and there but only a few. I don't have a lot of experience in this area. About the main recommendations I would give him would be to spend the time to try and go through and make sure all of the electrical connections are in good order and try and take any of them apart that he possibly can and analyze them and make sure that they don't have corrosion or debris in them if possible. Although this will obviously take a few days unfortunately especially if you consider how hot the weather is and dealing with that and also taking things apart and putting them back together, it would probably be worth it to at least know that it was done in the end. I am extremely concerned that if they take it to a shop, they're going to spend anywhere from $5,000 to $10,000 potentially if not possibly more and in the end, they may not have gained anything. That is my concern.
Hi y'all, My honest thoughts behind what you are dealing with. You are definitely on the right track IF it is an electrical issue, which is most likely what is going on with that much shit at one time. One of the biggest things to remember when working on electrical for any vehicle these days is that they run on millivolts. All the sensors rely heavily on the ground circuit being complete and in perfect condition. So do your do yourself a favor while cleaning your wiring and dang make sure all ground connections are spotless. Look at the wire where it enters into the connectors and check for green wires (corroded wires). If they are ugly replace them. Do NOT place dielectric grease in between the wiring connections. BARE connections to each other or to mount. After connecting you can cover it with dielectric grease to aid in keeping the corrosions at bay. Do ALL grounds 1st and see if that helps. REMEMBER too really look hard at them and get rid of bad connections. USE good solder back connectors.
Dielectric grease is an insulating grease . Use an anti corrosion grease or a coating :
SuperLube
De Ox Oxide Inhibitor
TruckLite anti corrosion
3M Scotchkote FD coating is the BEST !
Thanks for the info
Hope you get her figured out, yall be safe....
Hello from east Detroit Grosse Pointe Farms.
Electrical contact cleaner would have been the first choice. Should have been the first choice then the dielectric grease
You should also invest in a power probe. Those are awesome for finding issues. Power probe also has a attachment that helps you find bad wires or broking wires in a harness which in your case would be wonderful
every time I start editing a video you drop most cool
You didnt hurt anything at all by cleaning the batteries and all them connectors. I was wondering if the couple connectors that didnt come loose , were stuck on there because of some dirt and corrosion in them?
Check frame grounds clean them connections, pull as hard as you can with all the connections, also see if as your pulling if they seem loose inside and if so replace that end and make sure it's cramped properly with a hammer battery cable crimper also heat shrink the end to protect it.
Robert i think you guys are smart by avoiding the truck going in the shop. I would have that as a last resort so you can stay on the road and making money.
GREAT content y'all. - The Time Lapse / and Music was perfect
Steve / W5BIB
We’re in your neck of the woods we’re going through Valdosta on our way to Mims, FL to deliver gas pipes
So ?
low battery voltage on newer vehials will cause many strange codes. check battery voltage or replace batteries. chck and clean all grounds. if the clutches are bad that is a mechanical issue and should cause noticable slippage under load.check all connectors for corrosion
Definitely electrical. Start tracing out wires down the harness. Also plug connections.
Any tome that many untelated codes its almost always a wire issue
I don’t trust those dealers! That hot shot guy Tavis had what he thought was a turbo going out so he took it to a dealer and they quoted him like 5G’s and he got home and he discovered it was something simple and he fixed it himself! If it was the clutch it wouldn’t drive right
Not for nothing… Big Rig Becca was in a newer T680 and her rig kept throwing the transmission code while she was driving and she kept taking it in the shop. While she never really discussed in detail the issue at hand she certainly never mentioned clutches and she never ever seemed to get the issue resolved - she eventually left the carrier. Also, her rig was significantly newer with less miles. Having said that, I believe it is electrical. Perhaps a ground? Corrosion? One things for sure. Your cleaning will either help immensely or create a few new issues by rattling some other things around. Best of luck and stay safe out there.
I ll suggest it to you one more time. Take it to Pittsburgh Power in Saxonburg, Pa and they will tell you exactly whats wrong. I have known those people for over 30 years, and if it can be fixed, they will do it without ripping you off. While you are sitting around reading UA-cam mechanics, you could have been there and fixed. Sorry for your Kenworth/Cummins problems.
Clean battery terminals, clean all terminals on your alternator as well as starter. I had electrical issue once and it helped
It’s like the Mack 2.0
Cool, another vid
You're on the right track, but it's a PITA chasing down electrical gremlins, especially intermittent ones. Look for a common ground or power source for all the sensors (or the module they are going to) that are giving you codes. When you are working on your batteries, disconnect all the grounds first. Having a wrench hit the side really brightens things up... and when that happens some of those expensive modules can stop working. I was lucky, just a hot wrench and didn't have to clean my shorts afterwards. Only downside is having your APP for the Garmin display that fault code for the next 3 months because the APP couldn't communicate with the ELD while the batteries were disconnected.
Wiring at transmission....where ALL the road salt attacks it. Kenworth will sell you a complete wiring diagram specific to your VIN.
J1939 is a communication path for the engine , trans, and body control , ABS
Nice music choice!😊
I would drive. Yeah it's really hot 🔥 now, thinking about moving to Alaska
Unhook all your battery's and clean the terminals on all of them
Tell me didn’t watch the video without telling me you didn’t watch the video.
@@bowtieguy6870 right? LOL how can that be a real comment? If it was said BEFORE they watched the video, why ask it then?
I would drain the trans fluid an see what it looks like an smells like if it's smells burnt discolored from clutches etc an that's why I would not run a newer truck to much electronic stuff old school detroit 12.7 an 13 speed eaton with 3.55 gears oh also just found out gentry an sons trucking moved to a bigger shop an they r opening it up to do work on other people's stuff trucks trailers they do excellent work they haven't had any dot issues with there stuff out on the road an with the boats they haul high dollar stuff Sweetwater tn right off i75
If you have the Eaton auto shift transmission there is a trans ECM on the side of the gearbox. There will be a couple of heavy wires that supply power to that ECM along with some smaller wires that will control the clutch actuator. The problem with mine was always data connectivity issues that would throw transmission codes and shut me down. Through many hours spent under my truck replacing transmission wiring harness and such the problems were still there. What I finally did to fix the issue was to cut off all of the connection plugs and solder the wires and heat shrink and weatherproof the connections. After that I had the issues resolved. Turns out that the bumps, vibrations and road grime would create intermittent connections in the plugs telling the transmission computer that there was a problem with it. By eliminating the connections and creating a solid wire without any interruption in data flow to the computer it never occurred again and the problem was solved. The dealers will not do this as they will want to just diagnose the problem as their laptop tells them to. They will just keep throwing parts at it and will never get to the root of the problem. I hope this helps you.
I would take a little transmission fluid out in a container have it tested and see if there's any metal metal Parker goes in it and put new oil in the rear end too
Might be data wire from trans to ecm, plus eng and trans computers have firmware updates but have to do dealer for that. I have had one eng ecm update and because they did not do trans it would intermittently get stuck in neutral
ya da man
First from Illnois watching UA-cam 🤷🏻♂️
I had a problem with truck going into shop every month with trouble codes. After pulling all connections and cleaning with electrical cleaner then using what is called liquid gold on all connectors, probles went away. Liquid gold helps with conductivity unlike dielectric greese.
If you are near Dayton, try Rob's truck service in Saint Paris oh
And in the next episode of the adventures of Robert...
A ground with a lot of acid or corrosion should be cleaned , replaced if needed.
Large connectors that are stuck like that leads me to believe it's melted inside and "stuck"
Shifter selector switch! That's why you're not locking codes. Massive Kenworth Peterbilt warranty issue. Check CDL life. Contact circuit board medics from South Carolina talk to them about your failure.
Hopefully somebody with some money can buy that dude house with a shop they would make millions
I was getting the j1939 when my ecm went bad. I'm pretty sure that it means that your ecm or tcm isn't communicating.
I replace batteries every 3 years. If you can’t get the connector to come off that might be your problem. The evil green crusty might be the problem
Geezs thats alot of connections on those batteries not surprised its throwing codes all the time what ever happened to the good old 2 cable positive & negative
Dealerships have no idea because they have inexperienced Techs that don’t cost as much as people with and tenure. If you had someone that worked on the same issues over and over every day on staff, they wouldn’t be firing the parts canon..
Battery box looks like a bed o snakes!
Don't you have your engine washed at the truck wash? Maybe it's just a dirty ground wire. Clean it up! Get new batteries, and there might be low voltage issues.Northern trucks have lots of rust and corrosion issues in wiring. Need to pressure wash all under your truck, get all old salt and dirt out of there.
Hi, I had a strange issue similar to yours, meaningless fault codes except mine was saying ABS and engine light, turns out the problem was the EGR valve was full of soot. Also the thing wouldn't go into highest gear because the EGR Valve.
Battery terminals is a good place to start
So with cars, there are specific milages when reached certain parts have to be repaced, adjusted. Do truckers just drive till parts fail and truck stops? You mentioned your tractor needs clutch adjust ent or replacement at 400k. Seems like you feel its ok to continue past the scheduled maintenane of clutch. Do you risk transmission damage operating this way? I do understand your reluctance having to shell outn5-10 k to fix.
Kenworth's are notorious for harness issues. Sometimes where the j harness passes through the firewall.
All trucks...have issues
Check out the recall to see if your truck is part of that it's on the comstock
I get check engine lights that come and go. I just run it
Be a cdl truck driver they say hahaha 😂 Then it’s diesel prices,government road pirates,insurance and maybe a dirty shower! Haha 🤣
Robert, in the end my truck would lose throttle control,fail to engage in gear on demand, and throw intermittent lights. Be ready to get into the transmission. Volvo doesn't allow for repairs only replacing components. Hopefully kw allows dealers to replace worn parts. Good luck.
hogwash, volvo just like any oem wants it repaired as cheap as possible to get it out of warranty, we repair tons of i shift/mshift transmissions a the dealership, volvo and kw transmissions are completely different.
Short in the plug that’s seized
I don’t ever spray water under my hood n especially at a truck wash.
My thoughts are an air issue or a faulty gear switch but I have little experience with working on these as in no experience.
Good afternoon, guys. I came across your channel three weeks ago, and I'm truly enjoying your content. I have a question: Are those tarps you guys use really heavy because you guys make them look light when you move them around.
We run whats called parachute tarps. meaning the top of the tarp is vinyl. And the sides are that light weight parachute material. They dont last as long, but they save your back
I don’t know how many times I’ve had stuff done at a dealership shop, it doesn’t fix the problem, and they just move on to suggesting the next repair. And nobody can answer me to explain how I’m going to be reimbursed for the repair that costs thousands that didn’t need to be done. That’s crazy to me. They wouldn’t be able to do that at a car shop.
Time to check the Donuts
so the j1939 is the data link for all the on board computers to transfer messages via a 2 wire data link, so if you have a fault in the data link then computer communication will be interrupted!!
J 1939 is the data link that your truck runs off of! The old trucks used to run off of the black plug 6 pin now yours is a green nine pin plug
Had same codes and problems they changed out clutch and module on Trans but same codes a week later so they changed out shifter nob no more problems.
Get under the truck and look at all the connectors on the transmission. Fluid leaking into connectors, wires on sharp corners etc. clear codes and with scanner on wiggle wires. It’s not a hard failure or it would set right away after clearing it. Good luck
Well if you were not able to get some of those connectors off, I would be concerned about corrosion in one of or not all of them. That seems to be a problem don't you think?
If a transmission needs clutches ....wouldn't you be feeling it slipping Robert?
Well you can do whatever you want but I would listen to your mechanics before I would listen to youtube or facebook
the mechanics are only in it for the money. they still charge you if they are wrong.
Robert what eld do you guys use I have motive but I want to switch to someone else.
It could be from being on a hill i slept on a hill woke next morning to a bunch of stupid codes once i got flat again and shut truck off cleared codes didn’t come back for at least two months because of sleeping pointed down hill?
Clean the battery terminals. Possible you are getting a bad neg. ground which could be causing the sensor errors. Especially if the are intermittent.
seriously?
Also just dont check voltage. Have load test to check amps on batteries to see if good.
Hello Lita and Robert. You did not mention it, perhaps it ended up on the editing room floor, but did you contact the manufacturer of the transmission? I do not have any faith in mechanics. I think they will say or do anything just to get your money. When their fix does not work, they will have a reply to make you think their fix should have worked but perhaps it is something else. Money gone. Cleaning contacts on one end sounds good, and what you did looked good, but was the other end cleaned? Have good days!
my Ancel worked there is an auto link after i updated it still wont work if i put freightliner i have to do the auto link
bring it in to Canada BETTER FACTORY trained mechanics and parts in stock and cheaper labour rates . we dont have truck stops or rest areas that fix trucks just real shops