thank you I am having a new cooker and cannot afford a electrician but am sure I can do this myself after watching your easy to follow instructions thank you so much
Nice job Chez as always. Couldn't help noticing that the connection box was in a horrible place especially considering that a pan will be used right next to it. I am sure I read in an installation guide that stated it should be 300mm to the side of the electric hob.
+Cliff Carlo Yes, the flat used to be council owned (now a housing association) and they had rewired the whole flat using surface mounted trunking- even for the lights. They seemed to just put stuff wherever was easiest. Ironically when I was there decorating two electricians turned up to do something (which I thought was testing). They walked in the kitchen and said "oh, someone has already put the capping back on the trunking", then walked out- so just like the council really! Two of them turn up to do a job that didn't need doing in the first place.Thanks for the comment ;-)
+Cliff Carlo LOL. I think the 300mm refers to the isolator, not the cooker connection unit. If I remember rightly it's so that you can isolate the cooker if there is a fire without having to reach over the cooker.
Hi! Thank you for your video. I am from Russia and can tell you that the way how you connect the cooker is not allowable by Russian electrical engineering regulations :) Stranded wire must be twisted and soldered. And also it is required to tension the bolts one time per year. But many thanks for MCB I never saw it. This is easy and so helpful, I will try to find it and buy! Thank you for your channel and good luck!
Hi, Thanks for the comment. The way cookers are connected in the UK is a joke, they should be supplied with a lead and a special plug and just plug them into a specially designed socket. I always like hearing how things are done in other countries ;-)
Thanks for that this has helped me a load and saved me money it's good to see still old school people out there keeping the honesty and trades men at bay no body getting ripped off or anything great great small but helpful video that loved it
£80 is a fair price to be honest in some parts of the country, by the time the guy has paid his overheads - van/insurance/tools/training/tax/trade membership etc. ;-)
I agree with some of the items you have mentioned there Chez with regards to overheads. When I started I was surprised and of course, pleased when my Accountant pointed out that I could claim against most of the items you mention above. Some are even off-set in full.
Thank you for the video U.H. I’m amazed at some of the negative comments on here, do they not realise this is a killing zone if it’s not done correctly, all it would take is one gobshite and you’ve got a catastrophe on your hands.
Thanks for this very nice video I just fixed this cooker for my mum and It worked perfect we manage to cook the Christmas turkey so our Christmas was on you ,thanks very much and am subscribing to your site right now
Thank you so much for this, save me killing myself and a lot money for a few minutes work, also gave me the confidence to undertake the work, had to improvise with a screw falling through the back, and using another screw that fits to my old cooker with the old colour's wiring, I'll be waiting forever for a sparkie to actually turn up 🤦♂️so MUCH APPRECIATED 😊👍
I'm posting this tip again as with "bedlam" google cause with the messaging system it got buried except to the person I replied to. When having to cope with those grub screws or any other fiddly screws - or any in an awkward position. Using a bit of Blu-Tak (or similar) on the end of screwdriver will firmly hold the screw in the screw slot. The same blob can be re-used many times. Magnetic screw drivers don't work on brass ☺☺☺
For a plug yes but what is going to ever pull a cooker cable? I suppose their could be a sink hole where the floor vanishes and the cooker hangs over empty space. Not something I would expect happens too often.
Don't see that ccu working too well with a seperate oven and hob arrangement as there is not really enough room to connect 3 cables together. I used a 60 amp junction box for my oven and hob to split the cable. So one supply cable coming in from the cooker isolation switch and two cables coming out. one to oven and other too hob located in cupboard at side of cooker. It works well.
Brilliant...gonna wire my cooker myself..just a question though....I live alone so no one will switch the cooker switch on after I turn it off, do I still need to padlock it??
Not sure why you've got downvotes for this, it's a job too many people screw up, and it's one the householder may have to do (especially if they need to remove the cooker for cleaning and the cable's a bit short ;) )
Good vid, just bought a new cooker, no cable although I have the cable off the old one which i cut off. Instructions for new cooker say to leave Brass bridge units in place for single phase supply, which has thrown me a bit as ive never come across this before. Any help greatly appreciated,cooker is a Bush Betaw50w btw. Thanks for any help.
Is it ok to wire a 3 pin socket into the same terminals? My induction hob would wire in as shown in your video but my oven plugs into a 13 amp 3 pin socket, both need to be hidden behind the cooker housing ? If not, what would be the correct way to do this? Thanks
No, you need a seperate supply for the oven. It might be possible to wire a fused connection unit from the existing cooker supply, but you'd have to ask an electrician 👍
I haven't looked at the wall socket yet, but can I assume it's obvious which wire goes where? I only ask because I didn't notice you mention the positions in the video. Thanks
You always mentione safety, that makes me proud of you and your video, great !!!ASA am disable and to be charged £80+? When a probably spent £???alot well over a grand ,and brought customers their !!when say marks and Spencers sell a cooker ,they call this shop ,and it's £80+ then the shop get forty,m&sget a free forty pound really,but to charge a regular that amount, would rather watch and learn as that has really shocked me...
I need to ask my kitchen has built in hob which is hard wired and the built in oven is just plugged into a socket which is on same circuit as rest of kitchen (but has its own isolated switch and fuse).. Can it be hard wired direct Or will I need to get whole new wiring from. Fuse box? (need to check if I need electriction to rewire or just search longer/harder to find a oven that's just a plug as most now I find are hard wired)
+John Fithian-Franks Yeah I take the screws out of scrap junction boxes, sockets, switches etc... and put them in a compartment in my toolbox, for just that reason. It's saved my bacon several times... dropping the earth screw from a socket box and having it roll under the floor is another good on LOL
I use a bit of blu-tack (or similar) to fix the end of screwdriver into screw slot when using fiddly screws or where it's difficult to use both hands. Just put a blob on the end of screwdriver it can be used time and time again. (I've even used chewing gum)
Not sure why this comment's not showing on youtube (I guess google STILL haven't sorted the mess out) but yes, I do the blutak thing...also beeswax (i know it seems obscure but I have it around for other reasons) works really well for sticking screws to screwdrivers
My wire on the wall connection are Red, Green/Yellow, Black but my wires on the actual cooker are Brown, Green/Yellow, Blue. Am I right in saying the Brown and the Red wires are both the Live wires? Blue & the Black ones are the neutral?
I'm afraid I did not specify the cable, it was already attached to the cooker. Most new cookers specify which cable should be used in the manual Thanks for the comment 👍
Nice video thanks. The only piece I do not understand is the position of the termination outlet which is inline with cooking surface. This is not waterproof so if there is a water spill or pan just boils over there is a chance water will enter the outlet, worst case the cooker case itself goes live until the breaker activates. Do you have any comment or regs for positioning of cooker termination outlets?
Regs change over time and are not retrospective. Perhaps when this flat was wired (owned by the council) they only had high-level cookers, which would have meant that it would not be possible to see the CCU. Thanks for the comment 👍
Just come across this video. Been watching your others for a while now, I like your presenting style and the way you explain things. I haven't read all the comments but this being the Internet I'm surprised the "Part P police" haven't been after you. I read just today on another forum some chap explaining that ANYTHING in a kitchen was "notifiable". Literally, anything.... Anyway keep up the good work.
Thanks Graham. Part P rules have been relaxed a little since they were introduced and you can now do more than you could do originally. The last time I checked you could install your own cooker providing the cooker circuit was already installed. There was a lot of misinformation and propaganda published by some electrical organisations, many of whom hide behind the façade of being a registered charity- whilst charging their members a large annual fee for being a member ;-)The government did not help by producing the part p document- then updating it and moving it to a completely new location so webmasters could not link to the most recent copy of it! Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman agreed. However search any online electrics forum and sooner or later someone will pop up screaming Part P or notifiable or house fire. For the record I know many friends and family members who I would not trust change a plug, but many who can add a new radial or extend a ring main or - wire a cooker- without risk of calling out the fire brigade. Using a 5kg SDS Plus drill half way up a ladder I'd argue is more dangerous, but no formal training is required for that 😳
Thanks for the video, nicely explained. Can you use a standard multi-meter to check if there's any voltage at the live and neutral connections? I didn't recognise the bit of kit you used
Yes you can as long as it is set to AC volts, but the HSE recommend using a GS38 approved voltage tester such as the one used in the video. With a multi-meter there is a chance that you could have it switched to the wrong function or the meter itself could be faulty which is why a GS38 approved tester is recommended. Thanks for the comment ;-)
Yes, but it's best to sleeve it. Apparently sleeving the earth wire is required for the British standard, it's often left bare in other countries such as America I believe.
Thanks. You've just saved me £50, and I am a total newbie. BUT!!! Although my new cooker has the standard new brown and blue wiring. My cooker socket still has the old black (left-live) and red (right-neutral) wiring installed. My council flat was built before the new wiring became law. So I did a little more research elsewhere and saw and realised that live and neutral in my socket is reversed to the new sockets as in your video, which meant that I needed to connect the cooker cable blue live wire on the socket's left black wired side and the brown wire on the right red wired side. More information elsewhere online suggested that it doesn't matter if you get the two wires mixed up, so long as the green-yellow wire is properly earthed. Unsure how true that is. But I just stayed with black/blue & red/brown. Anyway, perhaps you can confirm or correct any of this, and thanks for the basic fitting instructions (even though I had to also look elsewhere about confusion about the old wiring). This video has really helped.
By the sound of it you've wired it correctly but please don't do a job like this unless you're 100% sure of what you're doing. Old colours: red=live, black=neutral, green=earth. New colours: brown=live, blue=neutral, green/yellow=earth. Hope that helps.
That is the original cooker connection unit which was disconnected when the flat was rewired. Originally the whole flat was wired with the cables buried in the plaster, but it was rewired a few years back and all sockets and even lights were surface mounted with the cables run in trunking. Thanks for the comment
Hi , I’ve just bought a fully gas cooker that came with a white cable with a 3 pin plug on it . I don’t have a socket for plug behind cooker just the plate the heavy grey cable . Can I change the plate to a 1 gang 13amp socket?? Edit When I say full gas I mean the 4 rings , grill and oven , only electric going to cooker is to power the light in oven and the clicking ignition thingy lol Any help be great mate 👍
I noticed you first installed the Neutel the Earth and then Live so if you're taking it out would you reverse the process starting with Live, Earth then Neutral? -- or does it not matter??
hi could do with a bit off advice i have an existing elec cooker still wired up but not working so getting new one but unsure if i can use the existing cable for new cooker rating for new one is 10.72 kw fuse rating 32amps and its a 6mm cable thats on the old one
I have this box at back of my cooker. It's fine but I got a new kitchen coming and I need to put two lots of hard wiring into one box? I have zannuzi cooker and a aeg hob and they have separate wiring. Can you take out old box to make it a double?
Hi Handyman, I'm going to do this, I have a 10KW cooker. What thickness of wire would recommend? Also how long should the wire be as I woukd like to be able to pull it out and clean behind it. Thanks Lee
I'm afraid you'll have to ask an electrician what size cable you need, I only wired in the cooker with the wire already connected. Thanks for the comment ;-)
Just bought an AEG INDUCTION COOKER, I would like to have a go and buy the cable and connect it myself (cookers now come delivered with NO cable). As I understand I need the cable with 6mm each core. My house doesn’t have the new consumer unit like yours, it has push button fuses and there is the 30 A dedicated fuse and outlet in the kitchen. Do you think I could connect it to this circuit without overloading, the cooker I bought is just like yours but induction 4 hobs on top, smaller and larger oven. ??
It depends on a few things. I cannot give specific advise so it is best to consult a qualified electrician. Here are a few things to consider- 1. What is the cooker rated at in KW 2. Is the 30 amp fuse in the kitchen a dedicated radial circuit, meant for a cooker 3. Do the manufacturers recommend you use a specific type of cable (such as heatproof) Diversity is allowed when working out the maximum load of a cooker, as it highly unlikely that all 4 induction rings and both ovens would be switched on full power, all at the same time.
Ultimate Handyman Cheers for a swift response mate Here’s what it says in the manual: • Dimensions : 894-912x600x609 •Voltage : 240 •Total electricity loading, W : 11300 •Required Fuse : 30 Yes, the fuse on the consumer unit is labelled “cooker” and it is rated 30 A (only bought the house from the council 2 years ago but they haven’t updated the wiring, Old consumer unit, fuses, lead insulation on the cable for cooker circuit that runs from consumer unit etc.) And yes, in this manual that I’m reading now it says that it must be H05V2V2-F (whatever that means ??) cable, 6mm core. I watched your video carefully and would really like to do at least this on my own Btw, cooker I bought is AEG CIS6741ECM FS Cooker, first time I am to use induction hobs , I am looking for new pots and pans they’re not cheap either so I’d like to save some money now by doing the connecting myself, plus you make it look easy in your video :)
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I would not connect anything to a lead insulated cable. It sounds like your wiring is really old and needs checking by a professional electrician to ensure it is safe! Your life could depend on it!
Ultimate Handyman Really? Oh well, man I am disappointed but glad you told me that . I’m going to have to call an electrician now to check it all for me. Cheers mate 👍
Yes, sorry but lead covered cable is donkeys years old, it could be over 60 years old! It's best to get it checked out by a professional to be on the safe side. Best of luck with it 👍
If you are talking about the terminal screws (where each wire is terminated), then yes the conductive part of the wire (normally copper), needs clamping down tight with the terminal screw. Loose screws can cause bad connections, arcing and possibly fires. Thanks for the comment 👍
i have a question for you , my daughters cooker has died so she waiting for the landlord to buy a new 1 , when she pulled the old cooker out there wasnt a box just a wire hanging out the wall so when the new cooker comes will the electrician still be able to install it
He/she should be able to, but it sounds like he/she might have to install a new cooker connection unit. I'm sure he/she will easily sort it out ;-) Thanks for the comment 👍
When my cooker was put in its on a normal plug,only had the brand new cooker month,today while using the hob ,flashing f come on,which means fault,checked the plug and has 13amp fuse,read the manual and it says 16amp minimum, could this simple 1amp difference be the problem
Normally single electric ovens can be wired to a 13A plug. Double ovens, electric ovens and hob's normally need hard wiring into a dedicated circuit, they should never be wired into a 13A plug. Not sure if that is causing the flashing f though. I'd expect the fuse to blow, rather than a fault code appearing
@@philhode5104 Probably best if you ask in the forum, as one of the sparks might reply (they know more than me) www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/viewforum.php?f=3
Just got a new single oven as old one stopped working. The old one was hardwired but the new one has a plug. Is it possible to change the hardwire spur to a 13amp single socket?
@@ultimatehandyman OK great! Also just to check is it a bad idea to cut the plug off and hardwire it because it won't be protected with the 13amp fuse?
Yes, cutting the plug off with remove the protection by the fuse, it will also invalidate the warranty on the oven. The easiest thing, is to fit a socket to the end of the cable and then just plug the oven in 👍
Great vid. I've just purchased a new 13 amp electirc oven to replace my previous 13 amp cooker. A new cooker control unit was installed a few years ago as a part of kitchen re-wire. The wire from the Control Unit was wired directly into the back on the oven as the oven design allowed this. The new oven however doesn't and it instead has a wire that plugs into the back of the unit (kind of like the connection into a pc monitor) and that wire is to be then wired/connected into the cooker control unit, but it's not long enought to reach the Cooker Control unit. So now the wire from the oven and the wire from the cooker control unit have to be connected together. I take it to wire them together I need to purchase a cooker CONNECTION unit and follow the instructions in your video? It also seems that the connection units are standard 45amp? Any help is apprecited. Cheers.
You could just put a plug on the wire from the oven and a trailing socket on the cable from the cooker control unit.Most single ovens are designed so that they can be wired into a three pin plug, which can then just be plugged into any socket.
Switch off the cooker circuit, then lock it off to make sure that nobody can switch it back on ;-) Then test to ensure it is not live before touching any of the terminals. Thanks for the comment 👍
Does the wiring go from the consumer unit to the cooker control unit and then the connection unit and finally to the cooker? Btw what is the socket used for on the cooker control unit
Yes, that is correct. The socket is so that people can plug in an electrical item such as a kettle- but it depends where it is located. Thanks for the comment 👍
Nice tip for moving the cooker , i ripped my lino pulling the freezer out but ive tiled the kitchen now - much nicer and warmer than cheap lino - especially when your neighbour below has underfloor heating the special tiles i used absorb the heat from below perfectly. Mexican ceramic mix tiles are the best for this or the cheap Cuban ones for sale at Homebase suprisingly , i did two jobs for customers who were skint and needed to keep the job cheap and they ended up actually being better than some of the top quality ones I usually use! Are you electrically qualified UH? I wired up my own shower and cooker including the consumer unit , mcb's, cabling, isolation switches etc - does that make me a bad man> lol I do have a city and guilds though! The thing I like about your videos is that you always do the job right and with quality gear. Pity 90% of the cowboys in this country dont!
Thanks Gary. Lino can be a real pain when you need to move something in a kitchen. I never go in Homebase to be honest as they don't have one near me (I think the closest is about 15 miles away). I do have some electrical qualifications but I don't know what exactly LOL. I have City and guilds 100/2987/4 level 3 and NVQ level 3 in electrical and mechanical maintenance. Unfortunately there are a lot of cowboys out there! Thanks for the comment ;-)
***** Dont really like Homebase its more expensive than B&Q and i dont like them either i prefer to buy all my stuff on ebay or Amazon or Ceramic Tile Distributors in Glasgow CTD when I am in Scotland but out here in Slovakia its just use what comes handy - my father in law rebuilt the old ceramic wood fire oven in his house and it heats the entire place and water for free - all we need to do is find some dead trees - Slovakia shows how to re-use just about everything , nothing gets thrown out - he even has an old bath in the garden to collect rainwater and the neighbour has a shed with a massive Russian Nuclear submarine battery attached to a solar array that would put Nasa to shame - powers his whole house!
I used to go in Homebase near Southport but was never impressed with the DIY section as it mainly seemed to focus on furnishings etc. Re-using stuff is good, it's a pity more people don't do it but unfortunately now we have a throw away culture. I'd love to see that battery and solar set up- I bet that is awesome. I keep thinking about doing something similar myself when I get chance- only using car batteries. I do hope the battery has been tested for being radioactive!!!! Thanks for the comments ;-)
***** Try forklift batteries they are quite meaty , unfortunately his sub battery is Lead acid so needs topped up with acid ever so often and thats a real hazard and he has been stopped by the police a few times and questioned over why he is buying so much, burned himself and had a few small gas problems as he didnt put proper ventilation in when he installed it - another consideration when using heavy duty batteries - The sub battery itself only cost 2500 Koruna which at the time was about £500. I would go with Exide submarine batteries they are supposed to be the best!
fyi www.otherpower.com/otherpower_battery_compare.html Personally speakin i would definitely go for the ones at the bottom of the page:- Surplus Klingon D7 Heavy Cruiser Starship Batteries. >;o)
You really need to test to ensure it is isolated correctly (people have been electrocuted when they have just relied on switches) If I was to do this without test equipment, I would isolate the cooker switch, turn off every circuit breaker (or remove every fuse) and also switch off the main switch on the consumer unit (but I'd never recommend that anyone does this without confirming it is not live) Thanks for the comment 👍
In the UK it's - Live (sometimes called "line"- just to confuse people), which is normally Red or Brown Neutral- Black or blue Earth- Green and yellow (sometimes green only in old installations) Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman I remember James May's Man Lab teaching me "brown is life, blue is not, green and yellow ground the lot" and that's done the job for me :) Having looked more closely at the box, I see the colours, I didn't look closely enough before, so I know what I'm doing now thanks to you :) Cheers muchly
Ultimate Handyman cheers...lol you'd think I'd know, having worked for contactum for 14 yrs!! Albeit 12 yrs ago.. Checked manual and 6mm is good.. Sorted and working fine.
Wife wants a ceramic hob fitted,instead of gas hob now installed,I have a 45 amp wall plug feeding electric cooker,which has a socket for a plug on it not being used,can a 6mm cable wire into a 13 amp plug,so I can drill through worktop,through fitted cupboard,to a new hob,there is a 45 amp breaker fitted in main fuse box to feed this wall socket,any ideas or info please,will be doing it soon,03/10/2019 thanks.
Hi there mate i will like to ask you that if i need to wire the cooker but in my cooker wire colour is blue brown and that yellow but in the wall is red black and yellow how we wire which goes to which one can you tell me please
If the screw is not screwed into a threaded hole dead straight (on a slight angle), the threads can strip of one of the components 👍 The screw will be difficult to tighten, but after you remove the screw the threads on one of the items will be ruined
To stop the MCB from flipping back on you locked it. If I also flipped down the main switch, big double red switches is it still possible for the MCB to flip back on without being locked?🏴🇯🇲 🕊️🔥✝️
Locking it off, is not to stop it from flicking back on- it is to prevent someone from flicking it back on whilst you are working on the circuit. Thanks for the comment 👍
+Ultimate handyman Please help. What wire strippers can you recommend? I also have a Beko cooker exactly the same as yours and moved into a new flat a fortnight ago, bought a pair of "Supatool 2 in 1" wire strippers from a local hardware shop and they are worse than useless! Plus I'm on Universal credit and simply can't afford an electrician hence my finding your video.
Ultimate Handyman Thanks for replying. Er, on my part it's been a case of a bad workman blaming his tools! *Facepalm. Watched one of your other videos on stripping and now I know where I was going wrong.
I dont have the tester sadly but all the switches on the c board are off along with the plug to the cooker so fingers crossed ill be good also took a picture of the wiers before hand as a reference
I have purchased a new Howdens Lamona electric single oven and grill and a induction hob. I have 32A wiring and connection box... the oven and hob have come with wiring attached with a lae that tells you not to fit a plug. The guy I have got to do the connection says that the cable from the appliances needs changing to a heavier amp to match the incoming supply, but surely the appliances would have been connected with the correct flex???!!! I don't want him to mess with the flex incase it invalidates any warranty. Can any one advise?
Is the guy fitting the oven and hob an electrician? Most electricians that I know would install a fused switched spur, and fit a 13A fuse in the spur. replacing the flex is not a good idea IMHO
@@ultimatehandyman no he isn't a qualified electrician that's why I am doubting what he is saying. There is a fuse spur, a 45A easy fit dual appliance outlet, and from the meter to the box that's been done in 10mm cable. I thought the oven and hob just got wired using the cable already on the appliances and the incoming cable was heavy duty so that if both hob and oven were on full blast it could cope with the draw of power... but I am only a home owner not an electrician... I don't have confidence in this guy and when I questioned him about changing the flex that the appliances came with to 10mm he got shirty with me.
It's criminal how much this service costs when buying a new item, not sure how much local electricians charge but very confident doing this myself now thanks. It's basically like doing a plug. Why so much?
Electricians have large overheads, when you think about the cost of their training/vehicle/trade accreditations/tools/insurance etc. (the same is also true of other tradesmen) Thanks for the comment 👍
hey nice video ..my issue is i am from germany here my kooker has 5 wires yellow ,blue,brown,grey and blak. but outlect has only 3 wires yellow,blue and brown ...what to do..?
Got a cooker the other day. Wired it with 6mm T&E, the wiring wasn't half tight cooker end. Wasn't impressed with bush's wiring connection tbh. (8kw)total but It'll never be fully loaded. On a 40 amp, I think it's max draw is 35 amps
I am replacing my electrick cooker but it is thurther away fron the socket than the last how far can i go, it will be 3/4 mtrs away. many thanks in advance.
You need to ask the people that keep saying it, as I have no idea why you would need a 13 amp fused switch on a cooker circuit, sorry. Thanks for the comment
Thanks for not making the job seem complicated and for also expressing the importance of safety. I appreciate that.
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
You have shown me how to safely wire in my cooker, thank you.👍
You've just saved me £118, I can't thank you enough. You are a God sent!
I'm glad the video helped.
Thanks for the comment
thank you I am having a new cooker and cannot afford a electrician but am sure I can do this myself after watching your easy to follow instructions thank you so much
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Can't believe I managed to fit my own cooker after watching just this one vid. Saved me forking out and I learned something new. 👏🏼
Glad I could help 👍
Thank you so so much I am single mother and just wired in my own cooker Amen 🙏
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
thanks I've just moved and thanks to you I've fitted my cooker on my own and I'm a woman
Ha why the hell is your gender relevant?
It's inspiring!
I forgot to switch off at mains, i'm now contacting you from outer space.
Yeah I would switch it all off at the mains. Just to be safe.
Worth doing yourself, Currys want £75 to install it
Thanx, my cooker stopped working but with the help of your vid I was able to " safely" have it working again xxx
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Just hardwired my cooker thanks to you, info was spot on and save me calling an electrician
👍
watched this video twice, and only this video. fit my new electric cooker, and saved hundreds. thanks man! subscribed and liked!
Awesome! Thank you!
Nice job Chez as always. Couldn't help noticing that the connection box was in a horrible place especially considering that a pan will be used right next to it. I am sure I read in an installation guide that stated it should be 300mm to the side of the electric hob.
+Cliff Carlo Yes, the flat used to be council owned (now a housing association) and they had rewired the whole flat using surface mounted trunking- even for the lights. They seemed to just put stuff wherever was easiest. Ironically when I was there decorating two electricians turned up to do something (which I thought was testing). They walked in the kitchen and said "oh, someone has already put the capping back on the trunking", then walked out- so just like the council really! Two of them turn up to do a job that didn't need doing in the first place.Thanks for the comment ;-)
I bet they were both wearing stetson hats and had a couple of horses outside lol
+Cliff Carlo
LOL. I think the 300mm refers to the isolator, not the cooker connection unit.
If I remember rightly it's so that you can isolate the cooker if there is a fire without having to reach over the cooker.
I do believe you are correct on that one.
thanks for video,
Your video has helped me the most to connect electric stove, while my husband was at work
I'm glad the video helped.
Thanks for the comment
Hi! Thank you for your video. I am from Russia and can tell you that the way how you connect the cooker is not allowable by Russian electrical engineering regulations :) Stranded wire must be twisted and soldered. And also it is required to tension the bolts one time per year. But many thanks for MCB I never saw it. This is easy and so helpful, I will try to find it and buy! Thank you for your channel and good luck!
Hi, Thanks for the comment.
The way cookers are connected in the UK is a joke, they should be supplied with a lead and a special plug and just plug them into a specially designed socket. I always like hearing how things are done in other countries ;-)
+Ultimate Handyman you do that yourself...install a male and female plugs
Radicalskin - 😂😂😂
Thanks for that this has helped me a load and saved me money it's good to see still old school people out there keeping the honesty and trades men at bay no body getting ripped off or anything great great small but helpful video that loved it
My local electrician wanted £80 to connect this cable! Then I found this! 15min job 👏🏿👏🏿
Themaskedtalker
Themaskedtalker
£80 is a fair price to be honest in some parts of the country, by the time the guy has paid his overheads - van/insurance/tools/training/tax/trade membership etc. ;-)
Ultimate Handyman
Exactly.
I agree with some of the items you have mentioned there Chez with regards to overheads. When I started I was surprised and of course, pleased when my Accountant pointed out that I could claim against most of the items you mention above. Some are even off-set in full.
Thanks for taking your time to make this video. I am going to connect my cooker today myself. This gonna save me some money.
How did it go? Are you still with us? 😂❤
Thank you for the video U.H.
I’m amazed at some of the negative comments on here, do they not realise this is a killing zone if it’s not done correctly, all it would take is one gobshite and you’ve got a catastrophe on your hands.
Thanks for this very nice video I just fixed this cooker for my mum and It worked perfect we manage to cook the Christmas turkey so our Christmas was on you ,thanks very much and am subscribing to your site right now
Thanks for the comment
Thank you so much for this, save me killing myself and a lot money for a few minutes work, also gave me the confidence to undertake the work, had to improvise with a screw falling through the back, and using another screw that fits to my old cooker with the old colour's wiring, I'll be waiting forever for a sparkie to actually turn up 🤦♂️so MUCH APPRECIATED 😊👍
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
I'm posting this tip again as with "bedlam" google cause with the messaging system it got buried except to the person I replied to.
When having to cope with those grub screws or any other fiddly screws - or any in an awkward position. Using a bit of Blu-Tak (or similar) on the end of screwdriver will firmly hold the screw in the screw slot. The same blob can be re-used many times.
Magnetic screw drivers don't work on brass ☺☺☺
Solid advice
Thankyou ever so much just because we're moving we downloaded your video, we'll have no internet for a while ;) Your a Gem!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
I'm Canadian, we don't hardwire in our stoves/ovens they are 220 and have a very unique plug. dryers are the same style plug. this was very cool.
+Curtis Frost That would make more sense, but in Britain they like to complicate the most simple of things!Thanks for the comment ;-)
minor comment, I would keep the earth wire longer than the others so if the cooker cable is pulled too hard the earth is last to fail.
It was too long to actually fit in within the screw terminal without being shortened somewhat.
For a plug yes but what is going to ever pull a cooker cable? I suppose their could be a sink hole where the floor vanishes and the cooker hangs over empty space. Not something I would expect happens too often.
Good tip though this is more relevant for plugs and cables that are moved often and more likely to break
Some people move there ovens to clean behind it .so it could get pulled
@@mbaker335if someone wants to pull cooker out to clean
Thank you so much for this, mate.
I'll be waiting forever for a sparkie to actually turn up 🤦♂️
so MUCH APPRECIATED 😊👍
👍
It was for a council property...........
nuff said 😂
The idea of a local isolator is to isolate the circuit while your working on it. Just check that it is actually isolated with your power probe
Don't see that ccu working too well with a seperate oven and hob arrangement as there is not really enough room to connect 3 cables together. I used a 60 amp junction box for my oven and hob to split the cable. So one supply cable coming in from the cooker isolation switch and two cables coming out. one to oven and other too hob located in cupboard at side of cooker. It works well.
Brilliant...gonna wire my cooker myself..just a question though....I live alone so no one will switch the cooker switch on after I turn it off, do I still need to padlock it??
Hi, What is the brand name of that voltage tester please ? seems like a special one. thank you
This well save me £75.00. Great video and well explained. Thankyou
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
How would you wire the back of the cooker the wall part is quite easy I've just never had to connect the cable to the cooker thanks if you can help 👍
Not sure why you've got downvotes for this, it's a job too many people screw up, and it's one the householder may have to do (especially if they need to remove the cooker for cleaning and the cable's a bit short ;) )
+TheChipmunk2008
Haters gonna hate I'm afraid!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
That is exactly what i thought!!
Hooking up my mates washing machine and cooker today this has really helped ta dude.
I'm glad the video helped ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Excellent thank you so much the good thing about this video is that it says it and shows it clearly ;) we just gained 75 pounds
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Good vid, just bought a new cooker, no cable although I have the cable off the old one which i cut off. Instructions for new cooker say to leave Brass bridge units in place for single phase supply, which has thrown me a bit as ive never come across this before. Any help greatly appreciated,cooker is a Bush Betaw50w btw. Thanks for any help.
His meal will be burnt then lol,only joking
Is it ok to wire a 3 pin socket into the same terminals? My induction hob would wire in as shown in your video but my oven plugs into a 13 amp 3 pin socket, both need to be hidden behind the cooker housing ? If not, what would be the correct way to do this? Thanks
No, you need a seperate supply for the oven.
It might be possible to wire a fused connection unit from the existing cooker supply, but you'd have to ask an electrician 👍
I haven't looked at the wall socket yet, but can I assume it's obvious which wire goes where? I only ask because I didn't notice you mention the positions in the video. Thanks
Yes, just a L,N,E connection 👍
Great video. Saved me some much needed cash. Just tucking in to my first oven cooked meal in a fair while. You're a good egg. Thanks :)
Thanks for the comment
You always mentione safety, that makes me proud of you and your video, great !!!ASA am disable and to be charged £80+? When a probably spent £???alot well over a grand ,and brought customers their !!when say marks and Spencers sell a cooker ,they call this shop ,and it's £80+ then the shop get forty,m&sget a free forty pound really,but to charge a regular that amount, would rather watch and learn as that has really shocked me...
Thanks for the comment 👍
New cookers being delivered today & I’m going to try connecting it myself 👍🏼
👍
I need to ask my kitchen has built in hob which is hard wired and the built in oven is just plugged into a socket which is on same circuit as rest of kitchen (but has its own isolated switch and fuse).. Can it be hard wired direct Or will I need to get whole new wiring from. Fuse box? (need to check if I need electriction to rewire or just search longer/harder to find a oven that's just a plug as most now I find are hard wired)
Hi, my biggest problem is dropping the grub screw and it always seems to fall into the least accessible area.
+John Fithian-Franks
Yes, dropping them is common ;-)
+John Fithian-Franks Yeah I take the screws out of scrap junction boxes, sockets, switches etc... and put them in a compartment in my toolbox, for just that reason. It's saved my bacon several times... dropping the earth screw from a socket box and having it roll under the floor is another good on LOL
+TheChipmunk2008
I also do that, especially at work ;-)
I use a bit of blu-tack (or similar) to fix the end of screwdriver into screw slot when using fiddly screws or where it's difficult to use both hands. Just put a blob on the end of screwdriver it can be used time and time again. (I've even used chewing gum)
Not sure why this comment's not showing on youtube (I guess google STILL haven't sorted the mess out) but yes, I do the blutak thing...also beeswax (i know it seems obscure but I have it around for other reasons) works really well for sticking screws to screwdrivers
Thanks for the vid mate , but how do I go about fitting my gas cooker to the lekki ? I don't like using gas y'see
My wire on the wall connection are Red, Green/Yellow, Black but my wires on the actual cooker are Brown, Green/Yellow, Blue.
Am I right in saying the Brown and the Red wires are both the Live wires? Blue & the Black ones are the neutral?
Yes that is correct, blue is neutral and brown is live.
Thanks for the comment
I would have liked you to explain what 'the correct size cable is' or is that another video?
I'm afraid I did not specify the cable, it was already attached to the cooker.
Most new cookers specify which cable should be used in the manual
Thanks for the comment 👍
Nice video thanks. The only piece I do not understand is the position of the termination outlet which is inline with cooking surface. This is not waterproof so if there is a water spill or pan just boils over there is a chance water will enter the outlet, worst case the cooker case itself goes live until the breaker activates. Do you have any comment or regs for positioning of cooker termination outlets?
Regs change over time and are not retrospective.
Perhaps when this flat was wired (owned by the council) they only had high-level cookers, which would have meant that it would not be possible to see the CCU.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Just come across this video. Been watching your others for a while now, I like your presenting style and the way you explain things.
I haven't read all the comments but this being the Internet I'm surprised the "Part P police" haven't been after you. I read just today on another forum some chap explaining that ANYTHING in a kitchen was "notifiable". Literally, anything....
Anyway keep up the good work.
Thanks Graham.
Part P rules have been relaxed a little since they were introduced and you can now do more than you could do originally. The last time I checked you could install your own cooker providing the cooker circuit was already installed.
There was a lot of misinformation and propaganda published by some electrical organisations, many of whom hide behind the façade of being a registered charity- whilst charging their members a large annual fee for being a member ;-)The government did not help by producing the part p document- then updating it and moving it to a completely new location so webmasters could not link to the most recent copy of it!
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman agreed. However search any online electrics forum and sooner or later someone will pop up screaming Part P or notifiable or house fire.
For the record I know many friends and family members who I would not trust change a plug, but many who can add a new radial or extend a ring main or - wire a cooker- without risk of calling out the fire brigade.
Using a 5kg SDS Plus drill half way up a ladder I'd argue is more dangerous, but no formal training is required for that 😳
Why am I paying £90 for installation when I can just do it myself
How did it go? Thinking off doing it myself tomorrow but afraid I will ruin it
@@gracelou91 electrics isn’t difficult it’s making sure you doing it safely if you cannot do that then don’t do it
Because an electrician would use the correct cable
Finally !! A nice clear vid. Xxxx
Thanks for the video, nicely explained. Can you use a standard multi-meter to check if there's any voltage at the live and neutral connections? I didn't recognise the bit of kit you used
Yes you can as long as it is set to AC volts, but the HSE recommend using a GS38 approved voltage tester such as the one used in the video. With a multi-meter there is a chance that you could have it switched to the wrong function or the meter itself could be faulty which is why a GS38 approved tester is recommended.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Ok makes sense
+Ultimate Handyman ... if their no sleeve on the earth wire is it safe to leave it bare ???
Yes, but it's best to sleeve it. Apparently sleeving the earth wire is required for the British standard, it's often left bare in other countries such as America I believe.
cheers for the reply just I got cooker fitted and was worrying about the bare wire
Thanks. You've just saved me £50, and I am a total newbie. BUT!!! Although my new cooker has the standard new brown and blue wiring. My cooker socket still has the old black (left-live) and red (right-neutral) wiring installed. My council flat was built before the new wiring became law.
So I did a little more research elsewhere and saw and realised that live and neutral in my socket is reversed to the new sockets as in your video, which meant that I needed to connect the cooker cable blue live wire on the socket's left black wired side and the brown wire on the right red wired side.
More information elsewhere online suggested that it doesn't matter if you get the two wires mixed up, so long as the green-yellow wire is properly earthed. Unsure how true that is. But I just stayed with black/blue & red/brown.
Anyway, perhaps you can confirm or correct any of this, and thanks for the basic fitting instructions (even though I had to also look elsewhere about confusion about the old wiring). This video has really helped.
By the sound of it you've wired it correctly but please don't do a job like this unless you're 100% sure of what you're doing. Old colours: red=live, black=neutral, green=earth. New colours: brown=live, blue=neutral, green/yellow=earth. Hope that helps.
Daft question what's the additional socket box lower down on wall for
That is the original cooker connection unit which was disconnected when the flat was rewired. Originally the whole flat was wired with the cables buried in the plaster, but it was rewired a few years back and all sockets and even lights were surface mounted with the cables run in trunking.
Thanks for the comment
Hi , I’ve just bought a fully gas cooker that came with a white cable with a 3 pin plug on it . I don’t have a socket for plug behind cooker just the plate the heavy grey cable . Can I change the plate to a 1 gang 13amp socket??
Edit
When I say full gas I mean the 4 rings , grill and oven , only electric going to cooker is to power the light in oven and the clicking ignition thingy lol
Any help be great mate 👍
Sure, you can fit a socket, but I would replace the cooker circuit breaker with a lower amperage one too (perhaps a 16 amp breaker) 😉
Hi, can you wire in a hob into the same terminals?
I noticed you first installed the Neutel the Earth and then Live so if you're taking it out would you reverse the process starting with Live, Earth then Neutral? -- or does it not matter??
It does not matter which order 👍
@@ultimatehandyman 👍
Thanks I'm moving next month and didn't know how to unwire my oven.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Is it still safe to do without testing even if I turn the fuse box and everything off?
Is it safe to do this if you are not qualified without the current testing device thing?
If you are in any doubt, it’s best to get a professional electrician to do the job 👍
I just got quotes £85 to do this. I think I'm confident enough after seeing ths to do it myself, thanks.
Thanks for the comment
If I have red black cable on cooker , and red and black on wall, what colour do I connect to each
What does it mean to "cross thread the screw"?
Thanks for the useful video 👍👍
When the screw is not engaged correctly with the threads, if you tighten the screw, it strips the threads from either the screw or lug.
@@ultimatehandyman thank you!!!
hi could do with a bit off advice i have an existing elec cooker still wired up but not working so getting new one but unsure if i can use the existing cable for new cooker rating for new one is 10.72 kw fuse rating 32amps and its a 6mm cable thats on the old one
The new cooker instructions will tell you what minimum size and type of cable you need.
Thanks for the comment
I have this box at back of my cooker. It's fine but I got a new kitchen coming and I need to put two lots of hard wiring into one box? I have zannuzi cooker and a aeg hob and they have separate wiring. Can you take out old box to make it a double?
Not sure, I think you might need an electrician to confirm.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi Handyman, I'm going to do this, I have a 10KW cooker. What thickness of wire would recommend? Also how long should the wire be as I woukd like to be able to pull it out and clean behind it.
Thanks
Lee
I'm afraid you'll have to ask an electrician what size cable you need, I only wired in the cooker with the wire already connected.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Just bought an AEG INDUCTION COOKER, I would like to have a go and buy the cable and connect it myself (cookers now come delivered with NO cable). As I understand I need the cable with 6mm each core. My house doesn’t have the new consumer unit like yours, it has push button fuses and there is the 30 A dedicated fuse and outlet in the kitchen. Do you think I could connect it to this circuit without overloading, the cooker I bought is just like yours but induction 4 hobs on top, smaller and larger oven.
??
It depends on a few things. I cannot give specific advise so it is best to consult a qualified electrician.
Here are a few things to consider-
1. What is the cooker rated at in KW
2. Is the 30 amp fuse in the kitchen a dedicated radial circuit, meant for a cooker
3. Do the manufacturers recommend you use a specific type of cable (such as heatproof)
Diversity is allowed when working out the maximum load of a cooker, as it highly unlikely that all 4 induction rings and both ovens would be switched on full power, all at the same time.
Ultimate Handyman
Cheers for a swift response mate
Here’s what it says in the manual:
• Dimensions : 894-912x600x609 •Voltage : 240
•Total electricity loading, W : 11300 •Required Fuse : 30
Yes, the fuse on the consumer unit is labelled “cooker” and it is rated 30 A (only bought the house from the council 2 years ago but they haven’t updated the wiring, Old consumer unit, fuses, lead insulation on the cable for cooker circuit that runs from consumer unit etc.)
And yes, in this manual that I’m reading now it says that it must be H05V2V2-F (whatever that means ??) cable, 6mm core.
I watched your video carefully and would really like to do at least this on my own
Btw, cooker I bought is AEG CIS6741ECM FS Cooker, first time I am to use induction hobs , I am looking for new pots and pans they’re not cheap either so I’d like to save some money now by doing the connecting myself, plus you make it look easy in your video :)
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I would not connect anything to a lead insulated cable.
It sounds like your wiring is really old and needs checking by a professional electrician to ensure it is safe!
Your life could depend on it!
Ultimate Handyman
Really?
Oh well, man I am disappointed but glad you told me that .
I’m going to have to call an electrician now to check it all for me.
Cheers mate 👍
Yes, sorry but lead covered cable is donkeys years old, it could be over 60 years old!
It's best to get it checked out by a professional to be on the safe side.
Best of luck with it 👍
Should the wire be touching the screw? Some sources say the screw shouldn’t be on the wire but just clamping it down. I’m not sure either way
If you are talking about the terminal screws (where each wire is terminated), then yes the conductive part of the wire (normally copper), needs clamping down tight with the terminal screw. Loose screws can cause bad connections, arcing and possibly fires.
Thanks for the comment 👍
i have a question for you , my daughters cooker has died so she waiting for the landlord to buy a new 1 , when she pulled the old cooker out there wasnt a box just a wire hanging out the wall so when the new cooker comes will the electrician still be able to install it
He/she should be able to, but it sounds like he/she might have to install a new cooker connection unit. I'm sure he/she will easily sort it out ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
I'm doing mine tomorrow never done it before but looks pretty straight forward. I haven't got a tester tho does that matter lol???
Yes, you need to be 100% certain that it is isolated correctly.
If it is not and you touch a live part, you could be killed!
When my cooker was put in its on a normal plug,only had the brand new cooker month,today while using the hob ,flashing f come on,which means fault,checked the plug and has 13amp fuse,read the manual and it says 16amp minimum, could this simple 1amp difference be the problem
Normally single electric ovens can be wired to a 13A plug.
Double ovens, electric ovens and hob's normally need hard wiring into a dedicated circuit, they should never be wired into a 13A plug.
Not sure if that is causing the flashing f though.
I'd expect the fuse to blow, rather than a fault code appearing
@@ultimatehandyman do you have email,if possible like to send picture of socket set up?
@@philhode5104 Probably best if you ask in the forum, as one of the sparks might reply (they know more than me)
www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/viewforum.php?f=3
Just got a new single oven as old one stopped working. The old one was hardwired but the new one has a plug. Is it possible to change the hardwire spur to a 13amp single socket?
Yes, sure 👍
@@ultimatehandyman OK great! Also just to check is it a bad idea to cut the plug off and hardwire it because it won't be protected with the 13amp fuse?
Yes, cutting the plug off with remove the protection by the fuse, it will also invalidate the warranty on the oven.
The easiest thing, is to fit a socket to the end of the cable and then just plug the oven in 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Perfect 👌 Thank you for you help and quick replies it's much appreciated!
Great vid. I've just purchased a new 13 amp electirc oven to replace my previous 13 amp cooker. A new cooker control unit was installed a few years ago as a part of kitchen re-wire. The wire from the Control Unit was wired directly into the back on the oven as the oven design allowed this. The new oven however doesn't and it instead has a wire that plugs into the back of the unit (kind of like the connection into a pc monitor) and that wire is to be then wired/connected into the cooker control unit, but it's not long enought to reach the Cooker Control unit. So now the wire from the oven and the wire from the cooker control unit have to be connected together. I take it to wire them together I need to purchase a cooker CONNECTION unit and follow the instructions in your video? It also seems that the connection units are standard 45amp? Any help is apprecited. Cheers.
You could just put a plug on the wire from the oven and a trailing socket on the cable from the cooker control unit.Most single ovens are designed so that they can be wired into a three pin plug, which can then just be plugged into any socket.
Cheers! Appreciate the advice.
@@rickbear7249 Please read the OP, he is installing an electric oven- not an electric cooker!
In the fuse box it is labelled cooker do I just switch that off or should i also switch off label that says sockets too? Thanks
Switch off the cooker circuit, then lock it off to make sure that nobody can switch it back on ;-)
Then test to ensure it is not live before touching any of the terminals.
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman thanks managed to do it fine. ;)
Does the wiring go from the consumer unit to the cooker control unit and then the connection unit and finally to the cooker?
Btw what is the socket used for on the cooker control unit
Yes, that is correct.
The socket is so that people can plug in an electrical item such as a kettle- but it depends where it is located.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Nice tip for moving the cooker , i ripped my lino pulling the freezer out but ive tiled the kitchen now - much nicer and warmer than cheap lino - especially when your neighbour below has underfloor heating the special tiles i used absorb the heat from below perfectly. Mexican ceramic mix tiles are the best for this or the cheap Cuban ones for sale at Homebase suprisingly , i did two jobs for customers who were skint and needed to keep the job cheap and they ended up actually being better than some of the top quality ones I usually use!
Are you electrically qualified UH?
I wired up my own shower and cooker including the consumer unit , mcb's, cabling, isolation switches etc - does that make me a bad man> lol I do have a city and guilds though!
The thing I like about your videos is that you always do the job right and with quality gear.
Pity 90% of the cowboys in this country dont!
Thanks Gary. Lino can be a real pain when you need to move something in a kitchen.
I never go in Homebase to be honest as they don't have one near me (I think the closest is about 15 miles away).
I do have some electrical qualifications but I don't know what exactly LOL. I have City and guilds 100/2987/4 level 3 and NVQ level 3 in electrical and mechanical maintenance.
Unfortunately there are a lot of cowboys out there!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
***** Dont really like Homebase its more expensive than B&Q and i dont like them either i prefer to buy all my stuff on ebay or Amazon or Ceramic Tile Distributors in Glasgow CTD when I am in Scotland but out here in Slovakia its just use what comes handy - my father in law rebuilt the old ceramic wood fire oven in his house and it heats the entire place and water for free - all we need to do is find some dead trees - Slovakia shows how to re-use just about everything , nothing gets thrown out - he even has an old bath in the garden to collect rainwater and the neighbour has a shed with a massive Russian Nuclear submarine battery attached to a solar array that would put Nasa to shame - powers his whole house!
I used to go in Homebase near Southport but was never impressed with the DIY section as it mainly seemed to focus on furnishings etc.
Re-using stuff is good, it's a pity more people don't do it but unfortunately now we have a throw away culture.
I'd love to see that battery and solar set up- I bet that is awesome. I keep thinking about doing something similar myself when I get chance- only using car batteries. I do hope the battery has been tested for being radioactive!!!!
Thanks for the comments ;-)
***** Try forklift batteries they are quite meaty , unfortunately his sub battery is Lead acid so needs topped up with acid ever so often and thats a real hazard and he has been stopped by the police a few times and questioned over why he is buying so much, burned himself and had a few small gas problems as he didnt put proper ventilation in when he installed it - another consideration when using heavy duty batteries - The sub battery itself only cost 2500 Koruna which at the time was about £500. I would go with Exide submarine batteries they are supposed to be the best!
fyi
www.otherpower.com/otherpower_battery_compare.html
Personally speakin i would definitely go for the ones at the bottom of the page:-
Surplus Klingon D7 Heavy Cruiser Starship Batteries.
>;o)
Yes but how do you wire in on the back of the cooker? every one of these videos doesnt show the wires going into the cooker
I don’t have one of those gadgets to check it’s off., is it ok to just switch the red switches off at the fuse box. Thanks
You really need to test to ensure it is isolated correctly (people have been electrocuted when they have just relied on switches)
If I was to do this without test equipment, I would isolate the cooker switch, turn off every circuit breaker (or remove every fuse) and also switch off the main switch on the consumer unit (but I'd never recommend that anyone does this without confirming it is not live)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Very professional and easy to understand video and learn
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Is the order standard, live neutral ground? How do you tell which is which if it's not standard?
In the UK it's -
Live (sometimes called "line"- just to confuse people), which is normally Red or Brown
Neutral- Black or blue
Earth- Green and yellow (sometimes green only in old installations)
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman I remember James May's Man Lab teaching me "brown is life, blue is not, green and yellow ground the lot" and that's done the job for me :) Having looked more closely at the box, I see the colours, I didn't look closely enough before, so I know what I'm doing now thanks to you :) Cheers muchly
My cooker has red, green/yellow, and black wires. I'm looking at replacing the wire but can't find any videos of the colours with mine
Hi the bud...my cooker Is without the cable supplied, is there a particular size cable.you need? I.e 9mm? Cheers in advance
You'll have to check the manual for the cooker, that will tell you which cable you need ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman cheers...lol you'd think I'd know, having worked for contactum for 14 yrs!! Albeit 12 yrs ago.. Checked manual and 6mm is good.. Sorted and working fine.
Wife wants a ceramic hob fitted,instead of gas hob now installed,I have a 45 amp wall plug feeding electric cooker,which has a socket for a plug on it not being used,can a 6mm cable wire into a 13 amp plug,so I can drill through worktop,through fitted cupboard,to a new hob,there is a 45 amp breaker fitted in main fuse box to feed this wall socket,any ideas or info please,will be doing it soon,03/10/2019 thanks.
I'm afraid you'll need an electrician for this one 😉
That was very well explained.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Bro, you're a G for this, thank you so much. And electritions are charging about £70 to connect 3 wires... Lol
Thanks for the comment 👍
Why does my cooker not have a 45amp switch next to it it seems to be the main electric board if I want to cut power to it ???
Brilliant , usefull, professional, good job lad!
Thanks for the comment
Hi there mate i will like to ask you that if i need to wire the cooker but in my cooker wire colour is blue brown and that yellow but in the wall is red black and yellow how we wire which goes to which one can you tell me please
Is the wire in the cooker yellow- or yellow and green?
@@ultimatehandyman yellow and green in the middle and blue and brown on each sides
@@A_A816
Blue goes to black (neutral)
Brown goes to red (live)
Green and yellow wires are connected together (earth)
@@ultimatehandyman thanks for help i did it brilliant thanks
What do you mean by cross thread the screws?
If the screw is not screwed into a threaded hole dead straight (on a slight angle), the threads can strip of one of the components 👍
The screw will be difficult to tighten, but after you remove the screw the threads on one of the items will be ruined
To stop the MCB from flipping back on you locked it. If I also flipped down the main switch, big double red switches is it still possible for the MCB to flip back on without being locked?🏴🇯🇲
🕊️🔥✝️
Locking it off, is not to stop it from flicking back on- it is to prevent someone from flicking it back on whilst you are working on the circuit.
Thanks for the comment 👍
I have a cooker that needs hard wiring to an a socket like this, but only have a normal 3 pin plug socket for it to go into, what can I do ?
You will need an electrician to install a dedicated circuit, I'm afraid!
Thanks for the comment
Hello, what did you use for locking the switch please?
It's a MCB lock off, similar ones are sold here- fave.co/38CpkcR
Then you just need a small padlock 👍
+Ultimate handyman Please help. What wire strippers can you recommend? I also have a Beko cooker exactly the same as yours and moved into a new flat a fortnight ago, bought a pair of "Supatool 2 in 1" wire strippers from a local hardware shop and they are worse than useless! Plus I'm on Universal credit and simply can't afford an electrician hence my finding your video.
Good wire strippers are not cheap, I'm afraid.
Knipex or C.K tools make some really good ones
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman Thanks for replying. Er, on my part it's been a case of a bad workman blaming his tools! *Facepalm. Watched one of your other videos on stripping and now I know where I was going wrong.
You are welcome ;-)
I dont have the tester sadly but all the switches on the c board are off along with the plug to the cooker so fingers crossed ill be good also took a picture of the wiers before hand as a reference
What cable did you use,twin or 3core?
Twin core and earth, think it was 6mm (that was already attached to the cooker) 👍
I have purchased a new Howdens Lamona electric single oven and grill and a induction hob. I have 32A wiring and connection box... the oven and hob have come with wiring attached with a lae that tells you not to fit a plug. The guy I have got to do the connection says that the cable from the appliances needs changing to a heavier amp to match the incoming supply, but surely the appliances would have been connected with the correct flex???!!! I don't want him to mess with the flex incase it invalidates any warranty. Can any one advise?
Is the guy fitting the oven and hob an electrician?
Most electricians that I know would install a fused switched spur, and fit a 13A fuse in the spur.
replacing the flex is not a good idea IMHO
@@ultimatehandyman no he isn't a qualified electrician that's why I am doubting what he is saying. There is a fuse spur, a 45A easy fit dual appliance outlet, and from the meter to the box that's been done in 10mm cable. I thought the oven and hob just got wired using the cable already on the appliances and the incoming cable was heavy duty so that if both hob and oven were on full blast it could cope with the draw of power... but I am only a home owner not an electrician... I don't have confidence in this guy and when I questioned him about changing the flex that the appliances came with to 10mm he got shirty with me.
Thank you SO much for this excellent video! New cooker installed :)
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
It's criminal how much this service costs when buying a new item, not sure how much local electricians charge but very confident doing this myself now thanks. It's basically like doing a plug. Why so much?
Electricians have large overheads, when you think about the cost of their training/vehicle/trade accreditations/tools/insurance etc. (the same is also true of other tradesmen)
Thanks for the comment 👍
hey nice video ..my issue is i am from germany here my kooker has 5 wires yellow ,blue,brown,grey and blak. but outlect has only 3 wires yellow,blue and brown ...what to do..?
It sounds like your cooker is three phase, which is best left to an electrician to wire up I'm afraid.
How about a 4 wire oven to the mains where do the 4 wires go into 3 connections?
Are you sure the oven is single phase?
Got a cooker the other day. Wired it with 6mm T&E, the wiring wasn't half tight cooker end. Wasn't impressed with bush's wiring connection tbh. (8kw)total but It'll never be fully loaded. On a 40 amp, I think it's max draw is 35 amps
👍
I am replacing my electrick cooker but it is thurther away fron the socket than the last how far can i go, it will be 3/4 mtrs away. many thanks in advance.
It's best if you get an electrician to spec the correct cable for you ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Love the intro with the light bulb.
Great video
+TheFossil999
Thanks, I have been using that intro on any new electrical videos that I make.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
I have a similar layout but people keep saying you need a 13 amp fused switch inline with the cooker. This doesn't have it so what do I need to do?
You need to ask the people that keep saying it, as I have no idea why you would need a 13 amp fused switch on a cooker circuit, sorry.
Thanks for the comment