A beautiful piece that turned out great. Thank you for taking all of the time to do the camera work, the editing, and making us feel like we are right there with you learning from from a master turner. Thank you very much.
Very neat looking wood and wonderful shape to that bowl. Really like seeing you work through the various challenges that projects present; that's really helpful and instructive.
Thank you for the hard work you put into making these videos Richard, especially the various camera angles. I know it's a lot of extra work and I'm quite sure frustrating at times having to work around the camera but the extra angles of view are so helpful.
I’ve learned so much from watching your videos. It still surprises me when I try something you’ve demonstrated and it actually works even though it’s me at the lathe.😮 Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us.
It’s interesting how conditions can effect the growth of a tree and cause patterns we find interesting. Nice design that came about, well done Richard.
Wonderful piece of wood! You are so lucky! I enjoyed your design…. I really appreciated the way you explained your work arounds on the problem spots. I heard that whipping sound as well. It just sounded like hard wood, right? Those in tight shots were excellent. Calling the cuts, THANK YOU! What on earth do you do with all your bowls? Lucky friends perhaps? I love it when people admire what one builds and then tell them….. take that home with you. Brilliant Work Richard. Thanks! TS, Portland
What a shame we don’t have this type of wood in the UK. Excellent video Richard. Between yourself and Tomislav I have learned a great deal and you have dispelled some of the rubbish others promote.
I looked up Huon Pine online because I wanted to learn more about it. It’s a very interesting tree, to say the least. Your final product was hard-won, but very handsome. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Richard, thank you so much for all the content you provide ,i have learned so so much from your videos , I do, however have a question when it comes to finishing , I too like the pieces I make to be utilitarian and used for the purposes that they are created for.... my question is ,if I was to use mineral oil and then apply a bees wax finish ,will this be foodsafe and withstand a good bit of use.... thank you again for all you do .It's nothing short of incredible
Mineral oil is fine. I used mineral and beeswax for a few years but found that people (needlessly) regarded vegetable oils as a safer option. To me, the advantage of an oil/beeswax finish is that when utilitarian bowls are washed the finish comes off, after which a patina develops with use as it does on a wooden chopping or serving board, wooden plate, wooden salad bowl, or cup. On pieces that won’t get wet, the oil/beeswax is a good base for ongoing care and regular polishing that can build to a glossy patina in a few months. My observation is that hard finishes and sealers eventually crack, look terrible, and need refurbishing, whereas my bowls tend to look better with age, use, and ongoing care.
@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you for the reply Richard , it is truly appreciated, what would your best advice for the recommended care for such utilitarian pieces to prolong their life be , would you have to add further coats of mineral oil or would the vegetable oil or indeed the rice oil you currently use be a better option... again thank you for the reply , you're a gentleman sir
@@arronwalsh303 Many of the plates and bowls we use day to day have been used for over 30 years. They get washed and set to drain and that's it. Salad bowls don't need more oiling as they get that from dressings. If anything they need thorough washing with detergent to ensure that they don't become sticky over time. Once a salad bowl becomes sticky, a lot of scrubbing is needed to get rid of the tackiness.
@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you again for the advice Richard , please continue with your great work , it truly has been a great help for everyone ,myself included ,you have brought my turning on so much ,there's not a day I don't learn something from your videos , it's greatly appreciated
If I'm not mistaken, this video has a bit different camera angle. Either way, this was incredibly helpful to see your initial cuts. I always find your videos helpful, but this one in particular was invaluable.
Yet another wonderful video. Thanks Richard. When you drill a depth hole do you always drill to the same depth from the bottom. What is that distance , usually?
I drill 2-3mm short of my anticipated final depth. The thickness of the base is determined by the chunkiness or thinness of the overall piece. The inside depth of most bowls is 10-15mm above the surface they're sitting on, which is one of several reasons why I rarely use chucks expanding within a base. Chuck jaws expanding with a recess severely impact design options.
Richard, have you had much experience with silky oak? I'm trying to find out if it is safe as a food bowl. I am aware from timber databases that it can be an irritant for some people with the dust but what about in use? Thanks for any light you or others can shed.
Love that Birdseye. We have Birdseye maple that is tricky to turn. It needs sharp, sharp tools. I appreciate you putting the rim on to highlight the wood. Is the undercut on the rim a design feature or is it for feel and grip?
I don't often drop the lathe speed for sanding, so sand at turning speed which is rarely over 2000rpm even on small stuff. I want to feel the wood pulling at the abrasive, not the abrasive skating over the wood.
A beautiful piece that turned out great. Thank you for taking all of the time to do the camera work, the editing, and making us feel like we are right there with you learning from from a master turner. Thank you very much.
Thanks!
And thank you. Much appreciated.
Very neat looking wood and wonderful shape to that bowl. Really like seeing you work through the various challenges that projects present; that's really helpful and instructive.
Beautiful shape, and a gorgeous piece of wood. Thanks for sharing with us, Richard!
Thank you for the hard work you put into making these videos Richard, especially the various camera angles. I know it's a lot of extra work and I'm quite sure frustrating at times having to work around the camera but the extra angles of view are so helpful.
I love the shape and the wood is gorgeous.
I’ve learned so much from watching your videos. It still surprises me when I try something you’ve demonstrated and it actually works even though it’s me at the lathe.😮 Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us.
Stunning. Love the shape Richard. Thank you for sharing.
It’s interesting how conditions can effect the growth of a tree and cause patterns we find interesting. Nice design that came about, well done Richard.
Well done Richard. It's a beautiful piece of work. I love the shape. Excellent finish.🙂🙂
Wonderful piece of wood! You are so lucky! I enjoyed your design…. I really appreciated the way you explained your work arounds on the problem spots. I heard that whipping sound as well. It just sounded like hard wood, right? Those in tight shots were excellent. Calling the cuts, THANK YOU! What on earth do you do with all your bowls? Lucky friends perhaps? I love it when people admire what one builds and then tell them….. take that home with you. Brilliant Work Richard. Thanks! TS, Portland
I'm a professional woodturner. It's how I've made my living since June 1970. Everything I turn is for sale.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Are they available for purchase online??
@@annal1827 You can purchase direct from me with enquiries by email. The address is in my channel notes or via www.richardraffan.com.au
@@annal1827 All sales enquiries come direct through me. There's a contact button in my channel notes, and also on my website www.richardraffan.com.au.
Fabulous Richard ! Just the most beautiful timber from Tassie ! Superb shape did it justice.
Beautiful bowl, that wood is gorgeous. Thank you for sharing.
You have the best videos, thank you for sharing your talent
I can smell it from here makes me want to dig out my little collection of Houn pine and make the shed smell good lol
Another lovely piece, thank you 😊
What a beautiful bowl Richard, stunning
What a shame we don’t have this type of wood in the UK. Excellent video Richard. Between yourself and Tomislav I have learned a great deal and you have dispelled some of the rubbish others promote.
You have burr oak and burr elm...
Beautiful again Richard
Very nice.
As always, great video!
I looked up Huon Pine online because I wanted to learn more about it. It’s a very interesting tree, to say the least. Your final product was hard-won, but very handsome. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Richard, thank you so much for all the content you provide ,i have learned so so much from your videos , I do, however have a question when it comes to finishing , I too like the pieces I make to be utilitarian and used for the purposes that they are created for.... my question is ,if I was to use mineral oil and then apply a bees wax finish ,will this be foodsafe and withstand a good bit of use.... thank you again for all you do .It's nothing short of incredible
Mineral oil is fine. I used mineral and beeswax for a few years but found that people (needlessly) regarded vegetable oils as a safer option. To me, the advantage of an oil/beeswax finish is that when utilitarian bowls are washed the finish comes off, after which a patina develops with use as it does on a wooden chopping or serving board, wooden plate, wooden salad bowl, or cup. On pieces that won’t get wet, the oil/beeswax is a good base for ongoing care and regular polishing that can build to a glossy patina in a few months. My observation is that hard finishes and sealers eventually crack, look terrible, and need refurbishing, whereas my bowls tend to look better with age, use, and ongoing care.
@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you for the reply Richard , it is truly appreciated, what would your best advice for the recommended care for such utilitarian pieces to prolong their life be , would you have to add further coats of mineral oil or would the vegetable oil or indeed the rice oil you currently use be a better option... again thank you for the reply , you're a gentleman sir
@@arronwalsh303 Many of the plates and bowls we use day to day have been used for over 30 years. They get washed and set to drain and that's it. Salad bowls don't need more oiling as they get that from dressings. If anything they need thorough washing with detergent to ensure that they don't become sticky over time. Once a salad bowl becomes sticky, a lot of scrubbing is needed to get rid of the tackiness.
@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you again for the advice Richard , please continue with your great work , it truly has been a great help for everyone ,myself included ,you have brought my turning on so much ,there's not a day I don't learn something from your videos , it's greatly appreciated
If I'm not mistaken, this video has a bit different camera angle. Either way, this was incredibly helpful to see your initial cuts. I always find your videos helpful, but this one in particular was invaluable.
Yet another wonderful video. Thanks Richard. When you drill a depth hole do you always drill to the same depth from the bottom. What is that distance , usually?
I drill 2-3mm short of my anticipated final depth. The thickness of the base is determined by the chunkiness or thinness of the overall piece. The inside depth of most bowls is 10-15mm above the surface they're sitting on, which is one of several reasons why I rarely use chucks expanding within a base. Chuck jaws expanding with a recess severely impact design options.
10:00 i did that once, and then spent 30 minutes digging the biggest cedar splinter out of my finger you could imagine 😂
Richard, have you had much experience with silky oak? I'm trying to find out if it is safe as a food bowl. I am aware from timber databases that it can be an irritant for some people with the dust but what about in use? Thanks for any light you or others can shed.
Love that Birdseye. We have Birdseye maple that is tricky to turn. It needs sharp, sharp tools. I appreciate you putting the rim on to highlight the wood. Is the undercut on the rim a design feature or is it for feel and grip?
I hope it's both. An acute angle on the inner lip defines it better.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturningThat one added design element that creates interest is what my pieces are lacking. I will try harder.
can I ask what RPM you usually turn when you're sanding?
I don't often drop the lathe speed for sanding, so sand at turning speed which is rarely over 2000rpm even on small stuff. I want to feel the wood pulling at the abrasive, not the abrasive skating over the wood.
Xin chào anh richank