Thank you Richard for another amazing design! I love how you quickly come up with solutions. The marking of the squares before they got sanded was an important lesson.
I watched the video where you cut this little piece from a larger root. At the time I really thought that piece was to small to be of use. Well you proved that thought to be wrong. That ugly little piece is now a beautiful little 4 cornered bowl. Bravo Richard. You seem to have the ability to see shapes in the smallest pieces of timber. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Learning so much from your videos! Do you have a short video on your dust collection? It looks like you used plywood(?) as a backboard to minimize dust and chips?
In this hood the sides are plywood, the top MDF. Basically whatever scrap was available at the time. I explain the dust hood in ua-cam.com/video/twuFE1-6qB0/v-deo.html.
Wonderful video! I have a question regarding screw chucks, I have a couple of maple blanks, 11" x 3", and was wondering about the size and depth of the hole that you drill for the screw to hold into. I am using a Vicmarc screw chuck. Thanks.
½" of screw should be more than sufficient for a maple blank that size. Generally the hole needs to be the same diameter as the screw shank, but if you have difficulty winding a very dense blank on to the screw, try drilling a hole a millimetre larger.
Hi Richard, a good use of a piece of scrap. Just a small query. First you have introduced me to the notion of hard and soft beeswax and you use the soft when you want the pores to be filled. On an earlier video which i recently viewed you used what i think you called 'rice oil' before applying beeswax. So when does one need to oil first and wax second and when apply beewax direct with neither oil nor sealer?
With very open pores I'll usually apply oil first, but it doesn't make much difference as the oil and wax mix on the wood. Currently I'm using rice bran oil because I couldn't find any boiled linseed oil at short notice.
This is such an interesting little item. A great conversation starter on a couple of different levels. The material itself is a good place to start.
The texture in that grasstree is wild!
Thank you Richard for another amazing design! I love how you quickly come up with solutions. The marking of the squares before they got sanded was an important lesson.
And many thanks to you too.
As with everything you do sir, it is beautiful.
Thank you for sharing.
Hello from Texas.
When you cut these small pieces I could not visualize what you might make.....something very nice, thank you.
A beautiful little bowl and great instruction. Thank you!
I watched the video where you cut this little piece from a larger root. At the time I really thought that piece was to small to be of use. Well you proved that thought to be wrong. That ugly little piece is now a beautiful little 4 cornered bowl. Bravo Richard. You seem to have the ability to see shapes in the smallest pieces of timber. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Super cute. Basically a woodturning cat video.
That piece reflects the reason I like the shark jaws so much as you can chuck up the bottom on a small bowl without bottoming out
Very nice, a beautiful bowl.
Love that "wood". Beautiful.
It's interesting that you don't strive for symmetry in the final shape. I'm headed to the lathe to try it.
beautiful!
That looks really nice 😊
Nice little bowl.
Great little bowl, when you started I thought you may end up with a button !
incredible pattern and colors. Thanks!
Love the baby Yankee driver!
Interesting piece of wood. It almost looks charred.
Wahoooo! Love that material!
Learning so much from your videos!
Do you have a short video on your dust collection? It looks like you used plywood(?) as a backboard to minimize dust and chips?
In this hood the sides are plywood, the top MDF. Basically whatever scrap was available at the time. I explain the dust hood in ua-cam.com/video/twuFE1-6qB0/v-deo.html.
Wonderful video! I have a question regarding screw chucks, I have a couple of maple blanks, 11" x 3", and was wondering about the size and depth of the hole that you drill for the screw to hold into. I am using a Vicmarc screw chuck.
Thanks.
½" of screw should be more than sufficient for a maple blank that size. Generally the hole needs to be the same diameter as the screw shank, but if you have difficulty winding a very dense blank on to the screw, try drilling a hole a millimetre larger.
Hi Richard, a good use of a piece of scrap. Just a small query. First you have introduced me to the notion of hard and soft beeswax and you use the soft when you want the pores to be filled. On an earlier video which i recently viewed you used what i think you called 'rice oil' before applying beeswax. So when does one need to oil first and wax second and when apply beewax direct with neither oil nor sealer?
With very open pores I'll usually apply oil first, but it doesn't make much difference as the oil and wax mix on the wood. Currently I'm using rice bran oil because I couldn't find any boiled linseed oil at short notice.
No apoligies needed for dust extractor noise, much rather hear that than hear you are sick from breathing the dust.
Titulky, prosím 🙏
Zkuste kliknout na CC
This is pretty much your only video without that option@@RichardRaffanwoodturning
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Bohužel jsou vypnuté. Rád se od Vás učím a i když je to jen robot-translate, hodně to pomáhá. 🙂