That's amazing! And what's even better is that I'm doing almost exactly the same tank in the same, Berlin scenery. Now I know that I'll have to go through every single episode!
The little side and rear grills go together a lot easier than look.When you add the copper wires it pulls frame together,the tiniest drop of CA fixing the wires hold frame rigid.Nice build,glad to see soldering being used, might tempt others to make the leap.
Nice video Rick - great start to your project. I’ve done a couple of Berlin dio’s myself & it’s a great subject! Amazing work on the T34/85, like your dedication in trying to get the kit as historically accurate as possible, particularly with all the after market add ons. That soldering just looks intense🤯 Most people I’m sure would just suffice with the Super Glue option, so admire your perseverance 😁👌 Will follow with interest, well done👍
Awesome work Rick! Some good soldering tips and tricks I'll store for future usage. One thing you should get is a longer blade for those long parts such as fenders etc. I have one and it makes a world of difference when bending those pieces. Looking forward to the next installment.🙌
You are a true friend of the Propaganda channel...thank you. For those of you reading this, please check out the Scott's great work on his Small Soldier video channel. ua-cam.com/users/SmallSoldier
Awesome video!! great soldering tips too, ive been soldering for years and just found out about those fiberglass tools!! (in my Amazon cart now...) Thanks again for a great video!!!!!
Hi Brett, I'd love to see your work!!! Please hit me up so that I can see. I have a set of Fruils' from from a prior project that I plan to use on this one. I do appreciate your recommendation, I'll look at them for the next one!
Mine is not really any further through than yours, except I have put the tracks together. I have used Fruils before but not on a T-34. I like them, I went with the 3D printed ones this time as the parts clean up almost nil.
Hi Rick thanks for the update I always wondered if there was much difference between these 2 kits from RFM but yes very confusing I'm still learning too.. I did buy your book and have read it so many times now thanks for this video.. 👍😎
Hi Paul. Thank you for your kind remarks about the book, I'm glad that you find it enjoyable and hopefully useful. Yes, in terms of these T34's and the variants...I guess I was sleeping in class that day. Thanks for watching.
This pen came from AK. Here is a link to the AK site:ak-interactive.com/product/glass-fibre-pencil-4/. I'll also link to a generic brand in the description below.
I solder many PE parts also. I recomend you to buy Soldering Iron with T13-I tip. Then you can solder even screw heads as I do. In my opinion you should invest in 0,25mm wire tin also because you use too much tin when you solder (result of this is too much cleaning). And the most important tip is to clean the soldering tip. The cleaner the easier is to solder.
You make everything seem effortless, lol, watching you work inspires us to attempt new and innovative techniques. keep up the great work Rick. i picked up a copy of Shep Paine vintage magazine . Truly like you ahead of his time. ✌Canada✌
It's really no particular brand. I've had it for years, I think purchased from a hardware store. If you look at some of the below comments you will see others, who have more experience in soldering make recommendations.
Well no one *really* cares but....'solder' comes from Latin 'solidaire' (roughly 'to join' things) which eventually, an awfully long time ago, became French 'souder'. That word came to English in the wake of the Norman conquest (1066....) which is why we say it that way in English. A silent 'L' was added by some very pretentious scholars hundreds of years ago who wanted to add crap to English words to make them look more like their old latin origin words. So they added an 'L' in "sodder" to make it "solder" but we in the US kept saying it the same way. So bottom line, US pronunciation is correct as the word migrated to English a thousand years ago. It is the British who started saying it according to the snotty spelling. There are lots of dumb examples of words like this that were made "fancier" in both English and French. Join me for more language nerdiness ;)
@@RickLawlerPropaganda you pronounced it incorrectly. It’s sol der. It could just be your accent though! But it does sound like your saying sar der. Your content is brilliant, by the way, and I’m looking forward to seeing the end result as I’m going to build a T34 myself in the near future. Thanks.
Perfect timing. I have an SU-85 I want to do next. Not being an armor guy this will help a lot :)
I hope so...at least you'll be able to hopefully avoid my mistakes!!!! Good luck on your SU-85.
Great step by step as always Rick! Love the demonstration of soldering and tinning the small parts to prep their attachment is an awesome tip
Thanks 👍
That's amazing! And what's even better is that I'm doing almost exactly the same tank in the same, Berlin scenery. Now I know that I'll have to go through every single episode!
Good luck on your build. Thanks for watching!
Very well done and informative as usual Rick! Keep up the great content!
Thanks, will do!
The little side and rear grills go together a lot easier than look.When you add the copper wires it pulls frame together,the tiniest drop of CA fixing the wires hold frame rigid.Nice build,glad to see soldering being used, might tempt others to make the leap.
Yep, the PE is a little tricky just because the parts are thin/fragile, and bending is risky. I'm glad that you endorse soldering!!!
Nice video Rick - great start to your project. I’ve done a couple of Berlin dio’s myself & it’s a great subject! Amazing work on the T34/85, like your dedication in trying to get the kit as historically accurate as possible, particularly with all the after market add ons. That soldering just looks intense🤯 Most people I’m sure would just suffice with the Super Glue option, so admire your perseverance 😁👌
Will follow with interest, well done👍
Thank you, Simon. Talk with you soon. Take care.
Awesome work Rick! Some good soldering tips and tricks I'll store for future usage. One thing you should get is a longer blade for those long parts such as fenders etc. I have one and it makes a world of difference when bending those pieces. Looking forward to the next installment.🙌
You are a true friend of the Propaganda channel...thank you. For those of you reading this, please check out the Scott's great work on his Small Soldier video channel. ua-cam.com/users/SmallSoldier
I like to watch quality workmanship and well made videos... what can I say.🙌
Great video, I'll follow your progress.
Great tips about soldering, on your video it looks so easy
Thank you. It really is just that easy!!!
Amazing photo etched work, what a high level of experience! Good job 👏
Thanks a lot!
Awesome work you deserve a sub. Keep up the good work can’t wait to see the final product.
Thanks a bunch!
@@RickLawlerPropaganda you’re welcome
Can't wait for next part!
Thank you, Tomasz. Working on it now!!!
Always great art Rick! ;-) bravo for this time spent on quality videos!
Thank you so much 😀
Another great video. Great tips along with an excellent narration. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Awesome video!! great soldering tips too, ive been soldering for years and just found out about those fiberglass tools!! (in my Amazon cart now...) Thanks again for a great video!!!!!
Thanks. It's nice to know that the videos of help. Thanks for watching!
You´re making me want to build again, Rick.
The world would be a better place!!! Thanks, Pete.
Hi Rick. I hope all is well my friend. Seat front and centre for this one. All the best with the build
Thanks 👍
I’m also building the RFM T-34, with the extra PE detail, I highly recommend the RFM workable track links too
Hi Brett, I'd love to see your work!!! Please hit me up so that I can see. I have a set of Fruils' from from a prior project that I plan to use on this one. I do appreciate your recommendation, I'll look at them for the next one!
Mine is not really any further through than yours, except I have put the tracks together. I have used Fruils before but not on a T-34. I like them, I went with the 3D printed ones this time as the parts clean up almost nil.
@@brettsharman1401 what brand of printed tracks are you using?
They are the RFM tracks
what is the brand of the pe bending tool？
The tools are from The Small Shop. LINK:
thesmallshop.com/
Try using solder cream for small parts. Available from a company called Carrs.
Thanks, I'll take a look at it.
Lovely work as always Rick. One question , why does your narration for this video sound like you've had a caffine overdose? 😆
Not sure on the caffine overdose...I guess just speedy that day?
Hi Rick thanks for the update I always wondered if there was much difference between these 2 kits from RFM but yes very confusing I'm still learning too.. I did buy your book and have read it so many times now thanks for this video.. 👍😎
Hi Paul. Thank you for your kind remarks about the book, I'm glad that you find it enjoyable and hopefully useful. Yes, in terms of these T34's and the variants...I guess I was sleeping in class that day. Thanks for watching.
Looks awesome, I have the same one on the table at the moment.
Wonderful. It's a very nice kit...have fun.
Is there only one type of fiberglass pen? Where did you get that at?
This pen came from AK. Here is a link to the AK site:ak-interactive.com/product/glass-fibre-pencil-4/. I'll also link to a generic brand in the description below.
I solder many PE parts also. I recomend you to buy Soldering Iron with T13-I tip. Then you can solder even screw heads as I do. In my opinion you should invest in 0,25mm wire tin also because you use too much tin when you solder (result of this is too much cleaning). And the most important tip is to clean the soldering tip. The cleaner the easier is to solder.
Thanks for the tips!!! I'll certainly look into it.
Nice work but flux removes oxide and helps the solder flow. its the iron that provides the heat and melts the solder 😉
Great point!
WOOW ... Inspiring .. Cheers
Thanks, Barry.
Nice done. All the best for You! ;)
Thanks, you too!
Good choice, the scene is going to be quite interesting, Rick
Thank you. I hope to do it justice. Talk to you soon via email....I have a question for you.
@@RickLawlerPropaganda I'm here for you, Rick, when you want
@@schweikces Email sent.
Also try soldering paste instead of wire. This is more comfortable way to solder PE :-)
Thanks for the tip!
My first comment here was eaten by spam filter I guess… I’ve said about turret bulge. This is not postwar thing at all
@@rossomachin Good to know. The info that I had said that it was. I guess I should have checked closer, and with you. Thanks, my friend.
You make everything seem effortless, lol, watching you work inspires us to attempt new and innovative techniques. keep up the great work Rick. i picked up a copy of Shep Paine vintage magazine . Truly like you ahead of his time. ✌Canada✌
Read Shep's book to learn...watch me only to be entertained. Thank you very much, James.
What brand of flux are you using Rick?
It's really no particular brand. I've had it for years, I think purchased from a hardware store. If you look at some of the below comments you will see others, who have more experience in soldering make recommendations.
that soldering is simple I'm going to experiment with it
Great. I'm sure that you will find good results!!!!
God stuff!
thank you, Glenn
Why do Americans pronounce Solder as sodder?
I don't know...American accent?
It really doesn't matter. It's the same as saying deckel and decal... we all know what it means in the end.
Well no one *really* cares but....'solder' comes from Latin 'solidaire' (roughly 'to join' things) which eventually, an awfully long time ago, became French 'souder'. That word came to English in the wake of the Norman conquest (1066....) which is why we say it that way in English.
A silent 'L' was added by some very pretentious scholars hundreds of years ago who wanted to add crap to English words to make them look more like their old latin origin words. So they added an 'L' in "sodder" to make it "solder" but we in the US kept saying it the same way.
So bottom line, US pronunciation is correct as the word migrated to English a thousand years ago. It is the British who started saying it according to the snotty spelling.
There are lots of dumb examples of words like this that were made "fancier" in both English and French.
Join me for more language nerdiness ;)
Sol der, not, sar der.
Did I mis-spell or mis-speak?
@@RickLawlerPropaganda you pronounced it incorrectly. It’s sol der. It could just be your accent though! But it does sound like your saying sar der. Your content is brilliant, by the way, and I’m looking forward to seeing the end result as I’m going to build a T34 myself in the near future. Thanks.
I have never heard it called sol-der haha it is definitely pronounced Rick's way in the US
@@BrailleScale it’s the English language, so it’s “solder” as the spelling dictates.
@@atae7185 With respect, you have it exactly backwards - see my explanation upthread.