How to Make ANY Cheap Bass Drum Pedal Feel More Expensive | Kick Drum Technique
Вставка
- Опубліковано 11 тра 2024
- → Conquer one-handed hihat 16ths at 80bpm in 5 simple steps. Download my FREE “Secret to Hihat 16ths” guide! the-non-glamorous-drummer.myk...
Welcome to the beginning of the “kick drum technique” series, where we’re breaking down all the core aspects of bass drum technique in 4 consecutive lesson videos. Today we’re learning how we can make any bass drum pedal feel more high-end and expensive by optimizing some key adjustment points on the pedal. If you aren’t happy with how your pedal feels right now, we’re gonna fix that today.
The coolest thing about what we’re learning today is that you can make these particular adjustments on ANY pedal, regardless of whether it’s a $50 pedal or $350 pedal. That’s why I’m incorporating my all time favorite pedal, the DW9000 pedal...as well as the cheapest pedal I own. We’ll see how similar we can make these feel to each other.
The most powerful factor in pedal adjustment will always be beater length. Beyond switching out the beater, spring tension and beater angle probably tie for “second most important” adjustment points. Try these optimization techniques out for yourself, and see if you don’t love your pedal more afterward.
Hey I hope today’s discussion helped you out. If you’re new to the channel and you’re digging it, be sure to click the SUBSCRIBE button before you go! NEW VIDEO EVERY FRIDAY.
Follow the Non Glamorous Drummer on Instagram!
/ thenonglamorousdrummer
Contact me here at my email! I’m not always able to reply to comments on UA-cam, but I’ll always reply to any question you send to my email. I look forward to hearing from you!
stephen@thenonglamorousdrummer.com
Amazon Affiliate Links to Products Mentioned:
Griffin Single Bass Drum Pedal:
amzn.to/2T6adxK
DW9000 Singles Bass Drum Pedal:
amzn.to/2wdRDL0
Dry Lubricant:
amzn.to/3ajENd7
Check out the entire series on bass drum technique!
[Video 2] STOP Burying the Bass Drum Beater | Here’s Why…
• STOP Burying the Bass ...
[Video 3] The Underrated Foot Technique You Must Start Using Now
• The Underrated Foot Te...
[Video 4] 6 “Foot Rudiments” Will Expand Your Ability to Execute Linear Kick Patterns
• 6 “Foot Rudiments” Wil...
Conquer one-handed hihat 16ths in 5 simple steps. Download my FREE “Secret to Hihat 16ths” guide and discover how you can play 16ths at 80bpm! the-non-glamorous-drummer-llc.ck.page/b2413eee87
1. Optimizing beater length and angle - 1:13
2. Optimize spring tension - 5:36
3. Oil up your pedal - 11:55
*Takeaways:*
Adjust the beater angle - 13:31
Adjust beater length to fine-tune “heaviness” - 13:42
Adjust sprint tension according to beater length/weight - 13:57
Get some dry lube! - 14:10
there is a special place in heaven for people like You Bro, thanks!
Yes, you rock. Thank you!
hot tip that nobody seems to ever cover: on a double bass pedal linkage, the angle (seen from above) needs to be the same between the slave pedal and linkage as between the master pedal and linkage. this maximizes the efficiency with which torque is transferred through the universal joints, so that less additional resistance is added
Exactly. Just adjusted mine. Slight learning curve but perfect action now on the slave pedal.
i just got a old bass pedal from a friend, perfect timing.
Great content! I've thought I have needed a new double bass pedal for months... After watching your video, it gives me hope!
Great Video! I wish you made this a few years ago before I upgraded my pedal. But I’m still going to apply these even now, Thank you. I also wish my instructor talked about this topic when I was taking lessons, your students (if you teach) are very lucky. 🥁🥁🥁🥁
I've tried different angles, and for me, the sweet spot is as much angle as I can catch it consistently without hitting myself on the top of the foot. Angle gives you some "free" return-energy. Usually you need to use more springtension to get the beater back quicker, but more spring tension = more energy/power needed for a stroke. Angle on the other hand, won't increase this need for power, so if you want the beater back quickly, increasing angle is the place to start I think.
This is the Video I have been waiting for, Thank You very much!!!
Good morning and thank you Stephen. I really enjoy your educational tips and appreciate your effort in helping me fine tune my skillz.
I’ve been drumming only for about a year and half, but I find myself adjusting more than playing! Great tips!
You know one thing I love about this channel is you don't shove drum Gear greed in people's faces unlike one or two other drum channels I won't mention. In fact you encourage the opposite. It's a breath of fresh air.
This is super informative! I’ve played for years but I need to get my chops up now for a new band that used pro tools for the drums and some of this stuff is tricky. Awesome job on this vid
Great points! Thank you! Very helpful and easy to understand!
Thank you bro! I didn’t know that when I Started learning drums that perfectly adjusting the equipment would be just as difficult as adjusting my hands.
I was about to give up on trying to adjust my slave pedal any more (master pedal feels great and weighty, plays well with both feet), but thanks to you I'll have a few more tricks to try out before stupidly throwing money at the screen. Thank you!! Love from Germany!
Great video. All my questions were answered. Thanks
I just purchased a Griffin double kick pedal and I have to say that this video was a huge help.
I've just been trying to figure this out.... thanks!!!!
I just picked up my second ever drum pedal - I went with the rereleased Ludwig Speed King single direct drive pedal. It's completely changed my progress and made learning a lot more fun. Super responsive without needing a million hours of technique practice to get the feel of the pedal's resistance. Super recommend it!
Got a DW 9000... that is what they had at the pawn shop LOL! Cleaned and oiled it and it feels like new. I shortened the beater by about 1" to match my size (5'1") though I am playing a 24" kick and that made the pedal much quicker. It also no longer hits me in the shin. Don't mind if it isn't as loud as it could be, and neither does family when I am practicing. I can always mike the drums when I need to.
Great vid! hoping to see you do a "how to lube and clean your pedal" video someday, similar to how your refurbished that snare drum awhile back.
Great review & tips!
thank you ive been waiting for a video like this for a while . i have the griffin pedal , and i used to have the 9000 perfect that was stolen hahah
Just replaced the hinge on my DW 7000 pedal(loose play).So much better,plus cleaned it up and even lowered the beater a bit and wow it plays so much better!! I'm hitting those funky beats with more feel and confidence now, especially when using ghost notes.♥️🤖📼⚡
Very in depth video! I just oiled a second hand pedal I got last week I was trying to find out ages why it wasn't as smooth turns out it was just oil wish I watched this video before I started I did eventually figure out but could of been quicker!
Thank you 🙏 that help a lot my beater did felt like crap 💩 lol now feels way better
Fresh out of the box (3 months ago), my pedal was a little tight (although I didn't notice assuming a new pedal would be ready to go). After seeing Stephen do the spring/beater rhythm test in another video, I finally tried a little 3-in-1 oil, but it didn't seem to do much...maybe I didn't use enough, but I didn't want to drown it, since it's wet. Yesterday I went out and got some white lithium grease (just WD-40 brand), and there's a noticeable difference. 👍
You know, I have that Griffith pedal but with other brand name which is "Premier". It´s made in China, of course they´re not DW or Tama, but they´re pretty well made and I kind of learned how to get used to them and learn how to play fast and well with them. They are very well built , with good materials and the design is pretty good.
Push out the bearings in the pedal and replace with correct sized ceramic, or even just high performance steel bearings and press them back in.
It's a never ending battle between spring tension, head rebound and friction, eliminate friction from the equation, will also make them feel smooth as silk!
Thanks so much, I've always had trouble setting up my pedals and they're not even cheap ones
Good info! In my case my pedal was state of the art when it was new, the Slingerland take on the Ludwig Speed King, the Tempo King. It's a great pedal, but I noticed some squeaks so the info on the type of lubricant to use is great. I suspected dry, but as there is some rust on my vintage 70's relic some WD-40 would probably also be good.
My hat stand also squeaks. Are hat stands as standardized as kick pedals? I don't quite know what to lubricate on that part.
Your comment "you don't want the beater to slow down before it hits the drum-head" helped me understand why my pedals felt the way they do. This one sentence caused me to experiment for a good 1/2 hour! A bit too much resistance right before the beater reaches the drum head. Apparently mine were timed a little too early. Alternatively, if I go beyond the apex of the beater swing I'm burying it too much and limiting the stroke.
Very helpful
DW 9000 is a pretty glamorous bass drum pedal ;). The only pedal i can control, and I've tried about every pedal made, are the early 80's Camco with as little tension as possible. I used to use the DW 5000. It never used to matter what I used
The red hinge on the DW makes a bunch of difference it has bearings in it that keeps your foot pedal straight and that keeps things from wearing out and gives a more focused feel.
Cheap pedals today are way better then the pedal I had when first started playing 35 years ago.
Thank you 🥁👍
That's really helpful- I will fine tune my Mapex Armory pedal
I just recently picked up the Mapex Armory hardware bundle. I am enjoying it so far but I am going to adjust my pedal using these tips too.
Which Mapex kit do you have?
I have Mapex Falcon, direct drive double pedals.
Great advice for all...Every tip was 100% correct!
...other than the WD-40 part... that stuff creates rust, and a lot of other products do the job as well or better without causing rust like WD-40 does.
@@slipknotrob666 you're absolutely right!
Another tip, since you showed adjustment using the beater memory lock, is to use those locks as weights to fine-tuning the beater feel. Slide down, lighter beater. Slide up, heavier beater. It's not a big difference, but it's noticeable. Then I just use a permanent marker to mark the memory location.
Thanks for the tips bro! I've got a DW MDD and it's a fantastic pedal, but I learned a BIG lesson last night. I'm play for several worship teams and I play on different kits; which, at times, is quite maddening! I had back to back rehearsals last night and rather than take my DW bass drum pedal with me for both rehearsals, I used the house pedal at my church and left my DW on my own kit at the ministry where I play on Friday nights...... HUGE MISTAKE! Even though I have tried to get the settings as close a possible, there is still a drastic difference between a chain driven pedal and direct drive. I could.barely get my doubles to fire effectively. I'll never make that mistake again! I look forward to the rest of this series... PEACE!!!
What's the effective difference between chaindrive and direct drive?
Every new pedal takes getting used to. To jump from a super high end DW MDD (an awesome feeling pedal!) to a house kit chain pedal is a substantial difference in terms of weight & smoothness. Not better or worse, just different. Most people won’t get acclimated to a very different pedal in a few minutes. Lots of touring cover band drummers who are constantly using back line kits take their own pedal for exactly this reason.
How do I keep my beater from getting stuck in between the drum head? I've tried messing with the spring tension and it didnt really help at all
Can you do a video about how to oil your pedal? And would that apply to the hi-hat pedal too?
Great job. Your advice on proper double pedal maintenance would be great as well! What needs to be done to keep them performing like new? Do the bearings, springs, chain-links, pins, shafts, couplings and universal joints need to be oiled/lubed? How, what and when to do it? Useful energy is lost via friction, especially on the slave pedal side, so it's important to reduce it as much as possible. Proper bar setup, lubrication and universal joint angles should be discussed as well. I have never seen a comprehensive video on this overall topic. PS: WD-40 attracts moisture that will cause rust. Thanks!
Hot tip re: WD40...
Go to Ace Hdwe. Buy white squeeze bottle of "Zoom Spout Oiler" fantastic stuff, non water based, used to lubricate turbine bearings in the early 1940's...
Damn I just adjusted the spring on my pedal and it feels way better. Also it's been raining for a while and today I noticed my snare sounds super bad. Does humidity messed the tuning? Or it's maybe time for a new head?
try counting how many times the word beater is used in this lolol. great video man
Stephen, have you vere had the urge to play a Double Bass drum Pedal? Is it worth the effort, if one doesn't play Metal or other Alternative music that require Speed Drumming? I purchased a Mapex DB 500TW. Trying it now with mixed results. Yes, it allows to achieve faster double strokes or triple strokes, but I am conflicted on moving the left foot to switch form the Hi Hat to the second pedal...
Btw these videos are gem 💎
Many thanks mrClark™ :))
I'm new to playing. You was talking about a tighter spring. How do you tighten it ? Thanks
Steve, How do I stop my Tama 600 pedal from Bouncing against the Batter head of the bass drum. I have purchased both the Griffin you show in the Vid (which is really well made and sturdy), and a Tama Cobra 600. I can return either one since they were purchased via Amazon. The Tama beater is harder that the GRiffin beater and also the felt marshmallow one that came with the standard drum kit (relatively a cheap starter Grammon kit received as a XMAS gift from my wife to get back into drumming after 50 years - I'm 68 now). Any ideas? The Tama is very light and responsive, the Griffin a bit more stiffer with double chain drive, but a the beater really doesn't bounce the way the Tama does?
I don't have a high end pedal but was wondering if I could purchase a better quality beater to better my sound or just invest in a brand knew pedal? I've had the same pedal for over 15yrs.
Please keep in mind that WD40 is good to remove rust; it is a solvent. It is not a good long term lubricant.
Oh, I think I may have to oil my pedal! It definitely makes noise - I don't know if it's squeaking per se, but worth a try.
Did you try it?? What was the issue!!? TELL ME PLEASE FUCKING TELL ME WAS IT WORTH THE TRY!!?!?!
@@jdog569 Alas, my pedal and I are in different states right now due to pandemic travel restrictions :(
For years I used an old simple Tama pedal which was incredible. Later I found out that these (2) were Simon Phillips favourites too.
I have a Sonor SQ2 and a Pearl Masterworks, and I use Tama Iron Cobra pedals on them both. Also I just bought a Tama Superstar Hyperdrive (which is yet to arrive at the time of writing) but that comes with an Iron Cobra pedal and hihat stand, which Im really looking forward to trying out. Most expensive isn't always best!
One time I found a dw7002pt double pedal in a used music store for only $70. It was in great condition so I picked it up. Later I found that the price for it brand new was $230. What a deal.
Hey bro what's the name of that kit in this video I got one of these to start off drumming but I don't know the name or brand of it
I wonder if there is some magic formula for the beater length, beater weight, and spring tension based on physics? Theoretically, a spring system can be either over-damped, critically damped, and under-damped. If it's under-damped, the beater will wobble back and forth a lot and mess up with your footwork. If it's over-damped, it'll feel heavy and slow. Between them there is a sweet spot for critically damped oscillator, where the beater should reset to it's neutral position fast and responsive.
Wasome video!
What's your honest opinion on that Griffin bass drum pedal? They're only $45 now and from what I can see it looks quite beefy.
The best quiet lube can be found at any bicycle shop. Spray or drip bottle of high quality full synthetic (clean) lube for bicycle chains. It will go on wet and then dry on its own in an hour or two with no need to wipe it off. This lube should last at least a year before needing any extra application.
That ‘memory lock’ is actually a beater balancer used to get a double kick’s beaters even but it’s also used mainly to alter the moving weight. The higher you have it, the more weight which means you don’t have to change the beater length
Great vid, man. Squeaking is only allowed on a Speed King. All else: Lube it!!
Well said about beater weight, size and feel.
And then only if your second name is Bonham.
What's your overhead camera setup?
I was zoning out in my living room. 7:56 I thought someone was at the door.
My kick pedal is fucked. The beater is so loose and wobbly, I've obviously tried to tighten is but won't budge. It's cheap yeah but brand new. I'm pissed, hoping this video will give me some help to combat the wobble
Is white lithium grease good to use?
weird, i NEVER mess with beater length. only adjust it to hit the middle. i adjust the pedal height/angle
I own many BD pedals. Some of the best pedals that I own are cheap ones.
What if the pedal has no way to adjust the beater angle? No bolt where the drum key is used to adjust it?
Did I hear any mention of beater hitting drum double beats? Tired of adjusting, getting frustrated. Looking for a clean single beat.
My foot board gets stuck up right and never falls back down it doesn’t bounce with the beater. How do I make this stop?
Wouldn't pedal height also be a major contributing factor? It is for me anyways. Big difference between low and high pedal starting position.
I was taught to slacken off the spring tension then wind it up in stages until the footplate stays in contact with your foot when you play. Thoughts?
I put on ankle weights during practice. That way when I play out it is much easier to play the songs correctly!!!
Cool
Which one is made in the USA??
I use a pedal on a 16" bass drum so I am restricted on length of beater to set, I will be making some adjustments after seeing this video..
Dusty Hoff is possible to install a riser on it? That could give you more options OR get a cheap TAMA classic pedal. It adapts to small BD in a different way, check their product video presentations.
@@davidbcg286 It comes with a riser so you can use a standard beater, if you don't, you will have to cut the beater shaft very short so the head hits the middle of the skin. That will affect the power and feel greatly.
I think a use innovation to kick pedals is a gauge or system of numbers when tensioning the springs kinda like a measuring cup with a measuring tape or a Meter when red is too tight and white is too loose , I dunno just a brain fart before I play drums
3:02 its called "throw"
I'm going to buy the griffin pedal
Don't use WD40 ...
W stands for Water
D stands for Deterrent
PB Blaster works great.
Dry spray are typically teflon based on dry out quicker
Dry line will build up over time and junk up and restrict movement if overused. I prefer to #1 keep moving parts CLEAN. And to use a synthetic lubricant like a Tri Flow or any light lubricant meant for bike parts. Tri-Flow smells like bananas. I’m cleaning up a snare drum right now that have tons of a dry line used and there’s build up all over the tension rods, threaded inserts and even a bit on the outside of the lugs. The previous owner must have used another wet lubricant that reacted with the dry powered lube that resulted in a sticky paste.
I play left handed and use my left foot to play the bass drum. Can I still watch this video?
I never use an aerosol spray to lube a pedal. You get overspray on the footboard and your foot can slip off the pedal. Been there and done that. A drip can is much better.
12:10 do you think White Lithium Grease would be good?
JBoss Awesome rdavidr?
White lithium grease is probably better than WD-40 because it is kinda for use in electronics and probably doesn't cause corrosion/rust like WD-40 does. On the other hand... With grease, you might have to take things apart and reassemble them... so pay attention before you take things apart.
I am starting to think people are spending way too much money on bass drum pedals, I use a DW 3000 and it's wonderful. It has survived thousands of shows & thousands of miles of touring.
you sound exactly like rdavidr
volume seems pretty quiet on this video
John Bonham was playing with an ASBA
I have a cheap drum kick. It's bothering me so bad. My drum kick makes rusty sound and i hate it. I can't upgrade because I can't make money.
4:30 Heel toe... mandatory whole foot liftoff. More importantly, slams my shin. Doesn’t come close to top of foot.
I mean i am happy cuz i use a pearl 2050c
What i am not happy about is why i am watching multiple videos while i could just practice 😢
Its BoJacks voice!
Its there, but its not low enough
@@JohnnySideburnsX i love it. keep up the good work. all best for u!
@@wojtekmakowski Yeah man! I was only 14 insides of a Hollywood Venue! Who knew what Laws meant in those days huh!!!
All cheap pedals have cheap bearings. Go to your local skateboard shop and upgrade your pedals bearings. There is no adjustment on any pedal that will make a bigger difference than a bearing upgrade and then perhaps add a spring upgrade.
Iron cobra is bbetter than dw pedalas
got a cheap one? lose the big wingnut in the hoop clamp under the pedal and get a smaller nut. how many times have you been impeded by the pedal smacking that wingnut on the way down
personally i was a bit surprised you spent 5 minutes just talking about beater length and angle... there's so many more dynamics to playing, foot position, spring tension, if you have an adjustable board to make it "longer", single chain, duel chain, straps, etc..
I envy your voice....
Dude, my pedal don't even have tension anymore.
One thing you didn’t mention, as does every single pedal company/pro drummer on the planet..THE SHAPE OF THE CAM!!!!!!!! y’all gotta stop acting like it’s some hush-hush insider crap. Do the terms “Accelerator” or “Power Glide” sound familiar? These are pretty much your only deciding factor when it comes to how “professional” or fast n aggressive the action is. And yes I realize that some ppl actually like that “smooth” n natural feel of a round sprocket and adjusting pedal height and beater length/distance from the head. Stop beating around the bush n jus tell ppl to pay attention to what kind of cam they’re dealing with. Mainly one the few differences between pro line pedals and basically anything else. I wish ppl would’ve mention THIS above anything else when it came to pedals. Either out of jus plain ignorance or thinking they have a secret they don’t want anyone else to know about lol sorry for the damn rant but yea THE SECRET IS OUT I guess hahahaha🤷🏻♂️ or not idk