I've had an electric anode for about 10 years. It solved my egg smell problem. Next time I buy a new hot water tank I'm going to remove the anode while the tank is still in the back of my truck laying on it's side. Much easier than trying to keep the tank from spinning if the anode is rusted in there.
Thanks for mentioning that this new anode is a different size than the old (standard 1-1/16") anode and the new size is actually 1-3/16", but I am glad you said that a 30MM socket will work. Good video
Excellent video on removal of the old anode rod and replacing with the Corro-protec. My 50gal AO Smith Gas water heater is about 3 years old and I drain and flush once a year. I knew the anode rod should be replaced every 3 years or so and upon checking for a new anode I ran across the powered anode. It has a 20 year warranty and hopefully it will provide trouble free service and save having to change the anode every few years.
I don't have this issue, but it's always good to have knowledge such as this, later for yourself, or maybe to help someone else out. Clearly explained and why, and the process is not very difficult. Thanks.
Well done, my new electric anode is in the mail and on the way! Hope this solves my problem…I'm confident it will. Great video. Cheers from Nova Scotia. MikeR.
Mike, it’s fantastic to see you making the switch to an electric anode rod - you’re going to appreciate the benefits! ⚡️ Just a fun fact to add: All of our Corro-Protec products are proudly manufactured in Canada! 🇨🇦
Best video I've seen on this issue. I have the bad smell and getting worse. Electric tank only nine months old on softened well water. I'm going to find an electric anode and quit playing with it. Thanks so much!
This has performed exactly as desired ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 . Basically, instant hot water instead of waiting up to two minutes as it was before. I have had this installed almost exactly one year now and just replaced the anode which is pictured. I pulled it out at six months and cleaned the heating element and removed debris. I would recommend a cleaning every six months and an anode replacement yearly. A mild citric acid and water solution soak really helps clean the heating element and tank. It must be fully disassembled to do the cleaning and that is not difficult but could have been made easier with a couple of design changes but no big deal.
Good video. Helpful, thanks. Recommendation to anyone watching this to hit the old Anode with an impact driver/gun. Try tightening briefly before loosening. Was the only way I could get the old Anode out
Here is some weird information for you. I'm a bit of a lazy guy, so sometimes I just leave my water softener without salt for LONG periods of time (note: the timer is still running, and its still back-flushing during this time). What I noticed is that when the water is hard, I don't get the sulfur smell. Once I have run treated water for a couple months it comes back. This could come from the sacrificial anode becoming coated in a mineral deposit while the water is hard, stopping the chemical reaction that causes the H2S, but also sacrificing the lifetime of the water tank itself.
Good video. However, there's probably still residual white powder at the bottom of the tank. Which, depending how old the tank is, could require additional efforts to get rid of. Amazon lists something called "Turbo Tank Cleaner" which appears to be helpful in getting rid of the white powder stuff. Also: if the old anode rod is stuck in place, an impact wrench can provide help. Home Depot has electrified impact wrenches for rent: ~$17 for a 4 hour rental.
Killer! New to well water. Got a new tank and smell is still there ( water wasn't ran in two years so needed a new tank! Yuk). So I did see this online and glad you verified it's worth! Will Amazon it and thanks for the instructions. Happy New Years from Maine🌟👍
@@chadgilreath8952 funny it did get better but iron in both cold and warm now. Put a carbon filter ( in our sediment casing filter to replace the sediment only filter) water doesn't smell and iron is much better but PH is still hard. I know that filter will have to be changed at least every 45 days. We will see. Will work till we get money saved for filtration and water softener.
I installed this today on my 3 year old water heater, i flushed it at least 5 times to get all the Ca out and replaced the anode rod, while doing that i realized the hot water line going to house was leaking, i had used sharkbites.. 😢 never ever going to use sharkbites, i used it because it easy and visible, i solder the 3/4 to Copper AND now its all good. Hopefully it will last 20 years or so.
you should probably never use a breaker bar to tighten ANYTHING. even an adjustable wrench would be better. at least with that you can feel the tightness...
Good presentation! An issue I'm trying to get an answer to before installing my corro-protec is that the instructions state to ground the tank but make sure it's not to the paint on the tank. I didn't see you scraping any paint off before you screwed the ground wire to the tank. Was this an oversight or is there still grounding happening? Thanks
Thank you. They just want to ensure that the is good contact. In most cases including mine the screw being threaded into the raw steel of the casing is enough contact for grounding purposes.
This should fix the issue as long as your sulphur smell is limited to the hot water tank, as the smell is caused by bacteria that live in there and feed off the minerals relased by the unpowered annode. If you heat up cold water in a pan on the stove and it doesn't smell then your good. If the heated water on the stove makes a suplur smell, then this wont work, as it's just sulphur in your reguluar water.
I replaced with an electronic anode 2 years ago. It solved the egg smell wonderfully. 2 years later the smell is coming back. Is there a limited life for these rods? I used the preserver brand and I'm going to switch as this can be very pricy after 10 or more years. They don't even sell the rods solo, you need to buy the whole kit again.
It's crucial to purchase from a reputable brand that backs their products with genuine warranties! Rest assured, if you buy a Corro-Protec anode, we offer a 20-year warranty on all powered anode rods that we sell. If you encounter any issues within this time, simply reach out to us, and we'll promptly address the problem. Please be cautious of cheap overseas imitations that make false warranty claims. Your satisfaction and trust in our product quality is our top priority! Additionally, we sell anode rods and power supplies separately if needed in any case.
In my new home I'm on public water. My tank doesn't have an anode, and both hot and cold water are soft/slimy after washing hands. The water also has a sulfur smell. 🤢 Should I add an anode, or find the main coming in and install a treatment option, or both?
@@GreenAcres581 is it the same standard size? Once I adjusted the heater to a hotter setting the water at least smelled better… either that or I got used to it. Hopefully I’m not smelling gross after a shower. 🤷🏻♂️
@@GoodHydration The separate anodes are mostly universal, but if it's part of your dip tube then it has to be specifically for your model tank because it has to be the right length. The problem with dip tube anodes is they tend to be longer, so they can be hard/impossible to remove because there isn't enough overhead clearance in the basement. There are also some tanks that have the anode part of the hot water outlet, but that isn't common. Those are shorter because the hot water is taken off the top of the tank so the anode can be a "normal" length. If you run the hot water temperature high enough you are killing the bacteria that cause the smell, so that's an effective solution but you have to pay for the extra energy to raise the temperature.
@@GreenAcres581 thank you for all the info., it’s difficult finding out all the things you wish they’d teach in school right after buying your first home and just before harsh winter hits! 😅
It seems like you might be using a Bradford White tank, characterized by its unique design where the anode rod is situated in the hot water outlet port. Excitingly, we offer a Corro-Protec model tailor-made for Bradford White tanks, ensuring a seamless and efficient installation directly into the hot water outlet port!
I have the Corroprotect model you mentioned and it so far I am quite happy with it. I did have to open up the sheet metal around the old inlet to provide added girth for the fitting but it was all described in your manual.
Nice video/Good Info - Is there a purpose or reason the electric rod is so short compared to the original anode length? I take it because of electric conductivity in water it doesn’t have to be continuously in water or does it? What happens if the tank water goes below the electric rod length? Does it burn out and have to be replaced?
Good question! You’ve pointed out the difference in size between the electric anode rod and the traditional ones. The electric rod is indeed shorter, utilizing an electrical current to prevent corrosion, which means it doesn’t need to be as large. It’s designed to switch off if the water level drops below the rod, preventing any damage and ensuring longevity. Once the water level is restored, the rod will turn back on and continue to protect your tank. Clever, isn’t it? 🙌🏼
It should last a very long time and extend the life of the water tank. Regular anode rods have very short longevity compared to this and since most people never check their anode rods they don’t realize that their tank is quickly corroding away. Another good idea would be to replace the tank’s drain valve with 2 dielectric 3/4” nipples and a 3/4” ball valve for a more thorough annual tank flush procedure.
No worries at all, any remnants will simply dissolve at the bottom of your tank. Just remember to install a new anode rod to ensure continued protection!
I have been told by a plumber that particulate matter at the bottom of a gas water heater would prematurely wear out the bottom of the tank. He tried to describe the process of the particles "jumping" off the bottom of the tank when they are heated. Over time, these "explosions" wear out the bottom. He said that you can even hear the "explosions." I took several classes from him at a local community college. I would tend to believe him. Everything else he said/taught was spot on. Being a chemist myself, I would think that the corrosion products on the surface of the anode may not be as soluble as you might think. What magnesium compounds are you thinking would be soluble enough to dissolve away? Perhaps some particles might get physically washed out of the tank, but solubility and "dissolving" is a different story. I would bet that if part of an anode fell to the bottom of the tank, it would be there when the tank had to be replaced and that the presence of the anode at the bottom, would help to shorten the life of the tank.@@corro-protec
I do have this issue. I haven't got the corro protec yet but am considering. When you took the existing anode out it went down very far in the tank. And then was covered over flush with the top of the tank. Is it OK than to put a much shorter anode in the çorro protec and have it protrude from the top of tank. My tank is a John Wood and is over 10 years old. My plumber told me don't replace the tank even if it exceeds the warranty date. Maybe because it is a expensive item too replace. Still lots of hot water. Oh and I am on a whole house well system and just replaced the water filters this February.
We have this rotten egg smell and our water softener company told us to just remove the rod completely because the aluminum anode rod can actually make the smell worse. For the past few months we have been bleaching the hot water tank every now and then. Works great for about 2 weeks and then it just comes back. At this point, I’m just so over the smell. I don’t care about the warranty lmao!!! I just ordered and electric rod and I’m hoping it helps. Over time those rods will completely disintegrate. After researching, I’m really hopeful that this will help. I know you commented over a year ago but hopefully you found a fix!!! We’re probably going to have to get a new tank to just start over.
I replaced my rod with a magnesium rod. No smell. I pull it once a year to check it. Takes less than ten minutes. I write the install and inspection dates on the water heater with a sharpie. $25 every 8 or 9 years is way cheaper than an electric.
I don't work on water heaters, but I work on cars and when I've stripped bolt heads before I've done things like: Weld another bolthead on top of it Weld a metal bar onto it Drilled it out Used some reverse threaded drill bits that "bite" into the metal and take it out. Anyways, even if none of these work for you, go ask some automotive ppl if they have a suggestion. They deal with stripped bolts all the time.
John - you might be, but maybe not. My nut also would not loosed even with a breaker bar - but if you haven't tried it, an impact wrench finally did it for me. Crazy how tightly some of these nuts are put on at the factory! Possibly on the order of 150 foot/pounds.
2/2024. Those Corro-Protec are now $170 a pop. For me that's game over. Regular anodes are like $30-40 bucks. There's no technology there that justifies that kinda price.
@@joshuawoolridge8378 yeah, funny thing, right before I watched this video, I watched a This Old House vid about this problem. They said to replace your magnesium anode rod with an aluminum. Don't believe I heard them mention zinc at all. They also said it's ONLY a problem with well water. Many commenters claimed to have the problem with city water. Here's that vid: ua-cam.com/video/pE3gD8P2_r4/v-deo.html
I've had an electric anode for about 10 years. It solved my egg smell problem. Next time I buy a new hot water tank I'm going to remove the anode while the tank is still in the back of my truck laying on it's side. Much easier than trying to keep the tank from spinning if the anode is rusted in there.
I had to use my impact to remove it. Worked very well
I didn’t have any smell issues, I replaced it to increase the life of my tank. Good video 👍
Thanks for mentioning that this new anode is a different size than the old (standard 1-1/16") anode and the new size is actually 1-3/16", but I am glad you said that a 30MM socket will work. Good video
Good video ….I lost my instructions because the box got moved twice. My wife has a tendency to clean so your video filled in ….good stuff.
Excellent video on removal of the old anode rod and replacing with the Corro-protec. My 50gal AO Smith Gas water heater is about 3 years old and I drain and flush once a year. I knew the anode rod should be replaced every 3 years or so and upon checking for a new anode I ran across the powered anode. It has a 20 year warranty and hopefully it will provide trouble free service and save having to change the anode every few years.
I don't have this issue, but it's always good to have knowledge such as this, later for yourself, or maybe to help someone else out. Clearly explained and why, and the process is not very difficult. Thanks.
Really good explanation of the process of H2S production and how to resolve at the hot water tank, Thank you.
Well done, my new electric anode is in the mail and on the way! Hope this solves my problem…I'm confident it will. Great video. Cheers from Nova Scotia. MikeR.
Mike, it’s fantastic to see you making the switch to an electric anode rod - you’re going to appreciate the benefits! ⚡️ Just a fun fact to add: All of our Corro-Protec products are proudly manufactured in Canada! 🇨🇦
Did it solve your problem?
@@Aderic Most Definitely! Told one of my friends about it , and now he is going to upgrade. Cheers MikeR.
Best video I've seen on this issue. I have the bad smell and getting worse. Electric tank only nine months old on softened well water. I'm going to find an electric anode and quit playing with it. Thanks so much!
This has performed exactly as desired ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 . Basically, instant hot water instead of waiting up to two minutes as it was before. I have had this installed almost exactly one year now and just replaced the anode which is pictured. I pulled it out at six months and cleaned the heating element and removed debris. I would recommend a cleaning every six months and an anode replacement yearly. A mild citric acid and water solution soak really helps clean the heating element and tank. It must be fully disassembled to do the cleaning and that is not difficult but could have been made easier with a couple of design changes but no big deal.
Good video. Helpful, thanks. Recommendation to anyone watching this to hit the old Anode with an impact driver/gun. Try tightening briefly before loosening. Was the only way I could get the old Anode out
Here is some weird information for you. I'm a bit of a lazy guy, so sometimes I just leave my water softener without salt for LONG periods of time (note: the timer is still running, and its still back-flushing during this time). What I noticed is that when the water is hard, I don't get the sulfur smell. Once I have run treated water for a couple months it comes back. This could come from the sacrificial anode becoming coated in a mineral deposit while the water is hard, stopping the chemical reaction that causes the H2S, but also sacrificing the lifetime of the water tank itself.
Good video. However, there's probably still residual white powder at the bottom of the tank. Which, depending how old the tank is, could require additional efforts to get rid of. Amazon lists something called "Turbo Tank Cleaner" which appears to be helpful in getting rid of the white powder stuff. Also: if the old anode rod is stuck in place, an impact wrench can provide help. Home Depot has electrified impact wrenches for rent: ~$17 for a 4 hour rental.
Killer! New to well water. Got a new tank and smell is still there ( water wasn't ran in two years so needed a new tank! Yuk). So I did see this online and glad you verified it's worth! Will Amazon it and thanks for the instructions.
Happy New Years from Maine🌟👍
Did this fix the smell with your hot water?
@@chadgilreath8952 funny it did get better but iron in both cold and warm now. Put a carbon filter ( in our sediment casing filter to replace the sediment only filter) water doesn't smell and iron is much better but PH is still hard. I know that filter will have to be changed at least every 45 days. We will see. Will work till we get money saved for filtration and water softener.
Awesome video. Thank you. I knew nothing about the nasty egg smell coming out of my faucets. Good Day
I installed this today on my 3 year old water heater, i flushed it at least 5 times to get all the Ca out and replaced the anode rod, while doing that i realized the hot water line going to house was leaking, i had used sharkbites.. 😢 never ever going to use sharkbites, i used it because it easy and visible, i solder the 3/4 to Copper AND now its all good. Hopefully it will last 20 years or so.
make sure to turn the water on first, then plug in the anode rod after
you should probably never use a breaker bar to tighten ANYTHING. even an adjustable wrench would be better. at least with that you can feel the tightness...
Thanks for the video. Only think I don’t understand is why you left the tank fill back up slowly.
What a great video very well done and very comprehensive. Thank you very much!
i just use impact gun to remove anode's. BTW, its a 1-1/16" socket
Thanks for the added info on the actual chemical reaction, that answered my questions. Good vid!
Dude! All my questions answered thank you . Great video
Do you need to purge the tank first with Hydrogen Peroxide or Bleach first before installing the electric anode rod? BTW - great video
Thank you very much for this video, and thank you for making it visually easy
Excellent instructions, thank you!
I thought the salt in the water softener is just to clean the brine in the regeneration cycle and not the entire your actual drinking water
Good presentation! An issue I'm trying to get an answer to before installing my corro-protec is that the instructions state to ground the tank but make sure it's not to the paint on the tank. I didn't see you scraping any paint off before you screwed the ground wire to the tank. Was this an oversight or is there still grounding happening? Thanks
Thank you. They just want to ensure that the is good contact. In most cases including mine the screw being threaded into the raw steel of the casing is enough contact for grounding purposes.
You don’t need to remove paint in order to get a good grounding!
This is a great video on anode rod
Thanks for this. Ending my rotten egg smell tomorrow!
This should fix the issue as long as your sulphur smell is limited to the hot water tank, as the smell is caused by bacteria that live in there and feed off the minerals relased by the unpowered annode. If you heat up cold water in a pan on the stove and it doesn't smell then your good. If the heated water on the stove makes a suplur smell, then this wont work, as it's just sulphur in your reguluar water.
I replaced with an electronic anode 2 years ago. It solved the egg smell wonderfully. 2 years later the smell is coming back. Is there a limited life for these rods? I used the preserver brand and I'm going to switch as this can be very pricy after 10 or more years. They don't even sell the rods solo, you need to buy the whole kit again.
It's crucial to purchase from a reputable brand that backs their products with genuine warranties! Rest assured, if you buy a Corro-Protec anode, we offer a 20-year warranty on all powered anode rods that we sell. If you encounter any issues within this time, simply reach out to us, and we'll promptly address the problem. Please be cautious of cheap overseas imitations that make false warranty claims. Your satisfaction and trust in our product quality is our top priority! Additionally, we sell anode rods and power supplies separately if needed in any case.
How's the water today? March 10, 2022?
Has yours ever leaked? I have corrosion around mine. Yes I used teflon tape.
Not yet.
In my new home I'm on public water.
My tank doesn't have an anode, and both hot and cold water are soft/slimy after washing hands.
The water also has a sulfur smell. 🤢
Should I add an anode, or find the main coming in and install a treatment option, or both?
you could check with city, or have it tested it might be hard water you might need softener do they chlorinate and treat water?
Your anode is probably part of the cold water dip tube. So you have to remove the dip tube to get at the anode.
@@GreenAcres581 is it the same standard size?
Once I adjusted the heater to a hotter setting the water at least smelled better… either that or I got used to it.
Hopefully I’m not smelling gross after a shower. 🤷🏻♂️
@@GoodHydration The separate anodes are mostly universal, but if it's part of your dip tube then it has to be specifically for your model tank because it has to be the right length. The problem with dip tube anodes is they tend to be longer, so they can be hard/impossible to remove because there isn't enough overhead clearance in the basement. There are also some tanks that have the anode part of the hot water outlet, but that isn't common. Those are shorter because the hot water is taken off the top of the tank so the anode can be a "normal" length.
If you run the hot water temperature high enough you are killing the bacteria that cause the smell, so that's an effective solution but you have to pay for the extra energy to raise the temperature.
@@GreenAcres581 thank you for all the info., it’s difficult finding out all the things you wish they’d teach in school right after buying your first home and just before harsh winter hits! 😅
So you poured 2 cups of bleach into the softeners tank where the salt goes
have same problem. but my anode rod is under the cold water pipe. too bad for me. thanks for the info.
It seems like you might be using a Bradford White tank, characterized by its unique design where the anode rod is situated in the hot water outlet port. Excitingly, we offer a Corro-Protec model tailor-made for Bradford White tanks, ensuring a seamless and efficient installation directly into the hot water outlet port!
I have the Corroprotect model you mentioned and it so far I am quite happy with it. I did have to open up the sheet metal around the old inlet to provide added girth for the fitting but it was all described in your manual.
Nice video/Good Info - Is there a purpose or reason the electric rod is so short compared to the original anode length? I take it because of electric conductivity in water it doesn’t have to be continuously in water or does it? What happens if the tank water goes below the electric rod length? Does it burn out and have to be replaced?
No if the water falls there will not be a path for current and it will just turn off. No damage
Good question! You’ve pointed out the difference in size between the electric anode rod and the traditional ones. The electric rod is indeed shorter, utilizing an electrical current to prevent corrosion, which means it doesn’t need to be as large. It’s designed to switch off if the water level drops below the rod, preventing any damage and ensuring longevity. Once the water level is restored, the rod will turn back on and continue to protect your tank. Clever, isn’t it? 🙌🏼
so will this make water heater last longer than with a regular anode will it last forever or does it need to be replaced like regular metal anodes?
It should last a very long time and extend the life of the water tank. Regular anode rods have very short longevity compared to this and since most people never check their anode rods they don’t realize that their tank is quickly corroding away. Another good idea would be to replace the tank’s drain valve with 2 dielectric 3/4” nipples and a 3/4” ball valve for a more thorough annual tank flush procedure.
Nice video buddy. Now what would you do if that anode broke off inside your tank as you were pulling out..?
No worries at all, any remnants will simply dissolve at the bottom of your tank. Just remember to install a new anode rod to ensure continued protection!
I have been told by a plumber that particulate matter at the bottom of a gas water heater would prematurely wear out the bottom of the tank. He tried to describe the process of the particles "jumping" off the bottom of the tank when they are heated. Over time, these "explosions" wear out the bottom. He said that you can even hear the "explosions." I took several classes from him at a local community college. I would tend to believe him. Everything else he said/taught was spot on. Being a chemist myself, I would think that the corrosion products on the surface of the anode may not be as soluble as you might think. What magnesium compounds are you thinking would be soluble enough to dissolve away? Perhaps some particles might get physically washed out of the tank, but solubility and "dissolving" is a different story. I would bet that if part of an anode fell to the bottom of the tank, it would be there when the tank had to be replaced and that the presence of the anode at the bottom, would help to shorten the life of the tank.@@corro-protec
Thank you so very much for this help! I was so lost.
Great video, well explained.. thanks
6 months - is the smell still gone?
Yes it is
Thank you so much for posting this... a great help!
I brought one a few years ago, it worked but I'm starting to get the smell again, I'm guessing its time for a new one.
I heard if you turn up your heat to 130 that should kill the bacteria
@@mikesullivan1 ill try that, thAnk you
I do have this issue. I haven't got the corro protec yet but am considering.
When you took the existing anode out it went down very far in the tank.
And then was covered over flush with the top of the tank.
Is it OK than to put a much shorter anode in the çorro protec and have it protrude from the top of tank.
My tank is a John Wood and is over 10 years old. My plumber told me don't replace the tank even if it exceeds the warranty date. Maybe because it is a expensive item too replace. Still lots of hot water. Oh and I am on a whole house well system and just replaced the water filters this February.
We have this rotten egg smell and our water softener company told us to just remove the rod completely because the aluminum anode rod can actually make the smell worse. For the past few months we have been bleaching the hot water tank every now and then. Works great for about 2 weeks and then it just comes back. At this point, I’m just so over the smell. I don’t care about the warranty lmao!!! I just ordered and electric rod and I’m hoping it helps. Over time those rods will completely disintegrate. After researching, I’m really hopeful that this will help. I know you commented over a year ago but hopefully you found a fix!!! We’re probably going to have to get a new tank to just start over.
I replaced my rod with a magnesium rod. No smell. I pull it once a year to check it. Takes less than ten minutes. I write the install and inspection dates on the water heater with a sharpie. $25 every 8 or 9 years is way cheaper than an electric.
I tried this, but the nut for the existing anode absolutely would not loosen. The nut now appears stripped. Am I just out of luck now?
I don't work on water heaters, but I work on cars and when I've stripped bolt heads before I've done things like:
Weld another bolthead on top of it
Weld a metal bar onto it
Drilled it out
Used some reverse threaded drill bits that "bite" into the metal and take it out.
Anyways, even if none of these work for you, go ask some automotive ppl if they have a suggestion. They deal with stripped bolts all the time.
John - you might be, but maybe not. My nut also would not loosed even with a breaker bar - but if you haven't tried it, an impact wrench finally did it for me. Crazy how tightly some of these nuts are put on at the factory! Possibly on the order of 150 foot/pounds.
Cutting Torch and cutt it off Make sure the flame 🔥 is blue.......
@@mitchm426 Yup, impact wrench is the solution for stubborn nut.
if water heater is more than a few years old it is probably permanently rusted in there
If you know why you are watching this video you can skip to the 8 minute mark
Great video thanks!
Awesome video!
Thank you so much for us who would of had to hire someone.
We have this same issue st our farm house unfortunately we rent a tank and they dont want us to instal thins
Tell them to pick it up or you want to put one in. Case closed. Stand your ground.
Great video thanks
2/2024. Those Corro-Protec are now $170 a pop. For me that's game over. Regular anodes are like $30-40 bucks. There's no technology there that justifies that kinda price.
“Aluminum is worse.” What do you mean? You said to replace with an aluminum/zinc anode…
Aluminum by itself is worse, the zinc prevents it
@@joshuawoolridge8378 yeah, funny thing, right before I watched this video, I watched a This Old House vid about this problem. They said to replace your magnesium anode rod with an aluminum. Don't believe I heard them mention zinc at all. They also said it's ONLY a problem with well water. Many commenters claimed to have the problem with city water. Here's that vid: ua-cam.com/video/pE3gD8P2_r4/v-deo.html
Is the ancient aliens guy from history channel?
How is the mandates working for you bud
5:18 for the answer
Fun
why are you in your socks?
Not many people are"handy"now days.post-modern people would rather just pay someone to solve their problems for them. no offense.
18,000+ viewers beg to differ.
31,000 as of today.@@bob_frazier