You need to do a similar thing on short riders. People give these "oh you can do this" pat on the shoulder bull crap without realizing that how many riding techniques aren't really possible for 5'4" guy/gal on 36" high seat. No dabbing, no rocking bike to hook up.. try starting up loose steep hill. Or do slide turns. Even tight turn on prone to flameouts bike is adventure lol3
I'm 77" tall on a KLR650 and was battling the windshields and setups for months, until I just cut the windshield off, deflected the air down and away, and got the helmet into clean air. Zero turbulence. Happiness is.
Thanks again Bret! It was an absolute blast working with you and I can't believe how much I learned during this experience about changing my techniques.
@@QTipCan Not really. I absolutely love my ATAS - I just need to modify it so it's as comfortable as the GS. Bret had his bike set up right for taller riders, so I'm trying to mimic that a little. Specficially, I'm looking at different handlebars that will give me more space and trying to find lower footpegs.
I'm 6'4" also on an AT. Took a class with Bret and Paul. Paul walked up and (gently) kicked my foot in against the frame. It changed everything about body placement. I was more stable and learned a lot more about locking into the bike. Bret mentioned later I should get drop pegs. I was hesitant at first and I WAS WRONG. They help so much and they don't limit clearance at all. All that to say this: as a tall rider, these tips are huge, but also if you can swing it, taking a class helps. Having someone watch your ride and give you active adjustment tips is absolutely massive. Again, if you can swing it. :)
Throwing a comment on so you know how many tall riders appreciate this type of content. 6'5" AT rider here. Definitely some things I'm going to look at on my bike to adjust for better geometry. Keep the tall beta flowing.
6‘4 with 37“ inseam. Thanks for recognizing us outcasts of the motorsport world! Usually all I see are tutorials how-to-lower-your-bike when it comes to ergonomics. On top of that I’m 180lbs (yes, I’m eating enough, I just don’t gain weight), talk about finding clothes that fit! I‘m riding a T7 with rally seat and have already ordered lower pegs. Like everything else, they are out of stock, though. Thanks for your outstanding work Bret!
@@travisfranklin107 That would be a dream come true! There are a couple of brands with a tall option for pants but unfortunately that seems to be uncommon for jackets. I ended up with a Klim Carlsbad in M, the one everybody complains about for having too long sleeves. Perfect fit for me!
6.2. Riser, bars pushed forward, levers down, throttle rolled backward so when leaning back I don’t have any unwanted throttle revs, pivot pegs, feet and knee gripping
Cheers Bret and Travis. 6’6” w/36” inseam. This is all good advice and many of the comments provided by other freaks like me have also been very informative.
Thank you, thank you, thank you for this video. Videos of tips for shorter riders are a dime a dozen but finding something that just takes a few minutes for focus on us tall guys is really difficult. I'm 6'6" with a 36" inseam and I immediately identified with everything you said. I'm not sure I'll find a locking point for my knees on my Husky 701 but I have a starting point now. Thank you, Bret.
One of the biggest changes that improved my riding was to improve my balance while riding. Constantly doing no dab stop and go's, or trying to go as slow as possible without putting a foot down. Learning to use the rear brake, clutch and throttle to help balance and make the bike do what I want it to when it tries to get out of line. All of this really made a dramatic difference and made it so I could ride my 38 inch tall seat height ktm 950 SE like it was a dirt bike and really have the confidence to tackle any obstacle I come across. Improving your riding skills and technique is #1 for me. I feel way to many people focus on a seat height number but you will never get better if all you do is sit on a seat and paddle along.
I am 6.3 (191cm) and the most significant change for my bike fitting are lower footpegs and pivot risers. Also the right setup for the levers makes a difference in riding comfort.
Great lab work! Your opening lines had me laughing hard. As a 6'7" (2m) rider of a BMW 2011 1200 GSA, I found the 1" Rok risers necessary when riding on-road, to keep me from leaning too far forward and causing back and shoulder strain. When I'm riding off-road I keep my handlebar wrench handy and can rotate the bars forward to a more comfortable and stable position. From your video I've learned to pay attention to that more stable, triangle position when standing. Thank you! Now if I could just find gear that fit better...
Aren't you resting knees on cylinder heads? It was a problem for me when trying GSA, also kicking engine every time I was putting my foot down. Try gear from RICHA if it's available in your area, they have most gear also in long version and comes with D3O armor, so it does not push or pull on knees :) But separate knee armour under pants works best
Pivoting Rox Risers are a must for me. I use the 2" variant rotated forward and I'm 6'9" on a 500EXC and a 990 Adventure (among other bikes). I also typically use the Renthal RC High Fat-Bar.
6 ft 3 " I took a lot of good points from this vlog which is helping me ride my Africa Twin DCT 2018 particularly regarding bar risers I now realise I don't need them and using my lower legs and feet position rather then my knees , so using these techniques is making me feel stable and safe and balanced fantastic channel 😀
Informative video. On my previous 790r and my current 890r I did a 1 inch riser, lower pegs, and a taller seat. I also rotated the bars up a little bit and the levers down. Works a charm for me and gives all day comfort and I feel in control. As others have written, you can have a rise but also move the bars forward which is what I did. That said, I am very interested in seeing how I look on the bike from the side to see if I look too upright. One other little tip is that a tall seat and lower pegs make the transition from sitting to standing much easier on the knees, especially for older riders.
One “ trick” I have found helpful is when standing to sitting, swing your butt out backwards and then swing in towards the front of the seat as you come to sit down. Puts far less load on the knees. I use a knee support on my right knee and sport gel before each off road ride .😀
As a new ADV rider long time street rider I find your tips very valuable. I have a 34” inseam and recently bought a Pan America. I found the tip about moving the clutch and throttle location. My R arm and wrist don’t bend like they used to so this tip really helped. Hopefully some day I can take your class because education is key. People will spend a fortune on upgrades and never invest in their riding skills.
One thing that helps a lot big hand riders is to get the levers inwards (towards the center) away from the tips of the handlebars, so as you can use two or even one finger to operate the levers. It also protects them from falls.
Thanks Brett. I’m 6’6” (1.98) w/36” inseam and size 15 (50) boots. I had a ktm 990 and now a Tenere 700. I have found the following have given me more comfort, control and hence confidence, especially when standing. Good quality well fitting boots with a stiffish sole. Allow to grip with lower leg and less tiring when standing ( sidi adventure size 50) I open up my stance a little by having lowered and slight rear offset pegs ( Bosley -30 -20back Rally so bigger than standard) and shifted handle bars up and away slightly with risers (Rox 2” pivoting riser) standard seat on the KTM but I increased the seat height on the T7 (custom made by upholsterer $100). This not only increase seated comfort but makes transition to standing much easier for my old tired body. Also angled the levers down. Had to modify brake on the ktm but shifter and brake ok on t7.
One thing is for sure, there are really tall riders out there, quite a few of them, and we are glad that there are videos like this that improve our techniques. Thanks.
You can't get a better free video with so much information. I went from a very quick and great handling Fat Bob to a Pan America. My balls Thank me. The heat was a killer in traffic. My first enduro bike was a 86 XR 500 made street legal. Enjoy your efforts Brett.
Thanks Bret, love your videos! I´m a 6' 7 rider (also on the Africa Twin) and the knee support thing has been my biggest issue for stability, will definitely try to anchor more from the lower legs on my next ride and not worry so much about the knees
Preach, brothers. My bike felt like a Grom until I made most of the ergonomic changes Bret suggested here and in earlier videos. The only thing I haven't done yet is to rotate the handlebar up by a degree or two, but I'll get around to it soon. Thanks for the helpful videos!
Great advice for fitting any bike and I'll certainly be using this video to continue improving the fit of my own! The best single bit of advice for my bike (2019 AT) was from one of your videos specifically on making the AT fit yourself. That was to spin the handlebar clamps around 180 degrees as they aren't symmetrical, giving just that little bit of extra reach so they don't feel quite so in your lap
6'5" (196 cm), Yamaha Tenere. Lowered the pegs, raised the handlebars, put a rally seat. To be honest I think there are limited options that you can do on your bike, but rather adapt your riding style according to situation. One thing that is on my mind is installing a higher handlebar (like protaper adventure high model), but I'm not sure if there would be more cons than pros in doing that....Anyway, superb and useful video!
As a tall rider (1.90m/6.23ft), this is so helpfull and true. I've recognize every situation I've encounter with a bike not correctly set for me. Thanks a lot to help me understand why I was unstable and unconfortable, and how to fix that !
Handlebar forward was the key for me (6'2"). On the KTM 790 Adv R I put it in the most forward of the 6 positions and raised it (up and forward) 1 line. I also removed the rubber insets on the foot pegs, gaining about a quarter inch in height.
Another great video - thank you. I’m 6’4 and lowered my pegs. It’s great when sitting but due to the design my feet are now pushed 1/2-3/4 inch outwards which give me even less grip around the bike and tank. Be mindful about this when choosing your pegs. Furtfer, I was unable to adjust the rear break lever and gear lever low enough to fit the pegs…
Thanks Bret! Needed this one being at 6,5ft. I tend to try and find thinner sole boots to help cut down that inseam a touch. I also tend to sit a lot more than most riders and stand when conditions call for it.
Yes I ride off road a lot and sit down more than most. Interestingly watch off road racers , they sit down much more than you might imagine. On big downhills your height is an advantage. You can get that big old butt right over the rear edge of seat/ mudguard which helps with balance and traction.
Excellent training video. I've got a 890r and am 6'4". I've found myself sitting a bit more than standing off road. My buddies always stand and said i needed to but i wasn't as comfortable standing like i was sitting. This made me feel better about sitting. Thanks.
Thanks for that info mate. May I ask You, as I am about same height as u are. Do I have a chance fitting on a 890 ADV (standard version), as i do more road than off-rad riding? Thanks
Bret, I'm 6'6", am 20 years into riding, and this video taught me quite a bit. I appreciate you and the effort you put forth to educate and entertain. Keep going, brother!
Great job, Bret (and Travis). I like the way you are refining your posture/"weightless rider" methodology. And what you are saying makes all the sense in the world to this tall(ish) rider. Also, I just bought a set of the Techspec sheets and you've provided good food for thought on fitting them.
I have a 35" inseam. Ride a T7 and GSA. I have been using the Rok risers but pivoting them forwards. So the bars stay the proper distance from my body. Plus on the BMWs I lower the foot pegs. On the T7 I seem to ride more sitting. Only standing if the terrain is rough or very technical.
Bret... Thank you soooooo much... Weeks ago I think I tried to write you asking for part of this information in Instagram... With 6'3", 15 shoe size, 34" inseam and starting with a GSA recently I needed to do some special adjustments, the rod of the gear pedal I had to make it shorter for more than 10mm, brake pedal I needed to move it down as much as possible. My bike came with the raisers, stock handle bar at 10 degrees and after this I will test with out them. I'm trying pivot pegs but I would like to move them lower and back... But still working on that... Wind shield is a problem... Even in the lower position. Thank you for sharing this and for the collaboration of Travis...
At 6'6" on an Africa Twin, I can appreciate this video... It's hard to find content geared towards teaching those "tall person" techniques. Thanks, Brett! (and the tall lab rat guy🤣)
6ft6 on a 2017 AT. Great to see this subject discussed, thanks. I wanted the Adventure Sports model but found the wider tank a problem due to the scoop not being high enough and pushing my knees out while seated. AS has a taller seat so I got one of those on my 2017. Also rox style risers rolled forward and bars rolled forward too. Stiffer springs all round too... fits great now.
6’4”/34” inseam rider here, in the process of getting my KLR back on the road after three years on my Himalayan. Makes a strong case for ditching the old bar risers and ordering a pair of lowered pegs from JNS. Oh, and a day dedicated to adapting the old advice to the new setup! Thanks for the clear, thorough communication!
Brilliant tips, I love the idea of trying to grip using my boots / calves etc because otherwise trying to grip the tank is like for Travis and I'm getting all anxious about it and not getting a comfortable grip so I end up just sitting almost everywhere.. So thank you Bret and thank you Travis for being the lab rat..
My day job is mechanical engineering. I don't work in aerospace, but I do understand some fluid dynamics issues. I've played around with windshields on a former V-Strom 1000XT. The only good windshield on that bike was no windshield. Yes I'm 6'-2". All that turbulent air between the low pressure void and the high pressure flowing air, usually ends up at the base of the helmet. Great way to induce a lot of mental fatigue, even with quality earplugs seated well in the ear canals. So frustrating.
Great video and much appreciated. I have struggled with working out my positioning because all bikes i have ridden have been configured for shorter riders. I am rebuilding my bike now and I will be looking at some of these ideas.
Bret,the tip on positioning the insole close to the bike, then standing up… make great sense to me! I’ll put some of these tips to practice soon! Thanks Bret, awesome video!
6'7" with a 38" inseam on a DR650. Rolling your levers down will be a huge benefit to taller folk, and rolling your bars forward will give you a little more height and space. The feet gripping technique I am looking forward to trying 🙂
I'm actually surprised Bret didn't mention rolling the handlebars forward. On some bikes, there may be a clearance issue, but most can move a couple of inches. Fit is a game of inches. Not only does it move the bars up and forward it can also change the angle of the hand grips which you have to keep in mind.
Careful with the rolling the bar forward tip. The sweep angle changes and when you tilt the handlebar forward a V-shape handlebar grip is emerging and that's going to toll your wrists. The bars need to be as flat/horizontal as possible when you grab them.
Finally a video on bikes for tall riders with actual in-practice analysis and tips, and an actual tall guy (my height) on the bike! Thanks for the great video.
Great information Brett and Travis! I am 6'2" and have encountered the same issues you expertly covered in this video. I have also rotated the levers down on the handlebars to get a better riding position when standing. Also added lowered pegs on my DR650. Thank you again! Cheers!
That was beyond S U P E R B !!! At 71, contemplating learning to ride (to explore, ONLY), at 6/2" with a 35" inseam (able to flat-foot over a 37" dirt bike), I was concerned about feeling top-heavy and insecure, standing. Previous to your handlebar video, I hadn't thought about the fork caster angling handlebar risers BACK INTO the rider (closing the 'cockpit'). I still worry about throttle control, standing up.
Lowering my pegs helped so much. It felt like I lowered my center of gravity way down when I did it. I also used the ROX risers and raised my bars but I pivoted them forward so I have the same distance. 6’5 and flat foot my KLR standing and when sitting I fold my knees.
ROX risers here also. Extra pivot point makes the difference. Turn it forward as well as move it upward. Of course, KTM also allows for three-position forward/rearward adjustment and that’s nice.
rox offset risers move handlebar away from rider. rox pivoting risers can also pivot away from the rider. one can combine the offset risers and pivoting risers to find ideal position. get handlebar with less sweep and, if one adds risers, one can add handlebar with less sweep and lower rise.
I put risers, but angled instead of straight. I directed them forwards, so the bar went up but not towards me. The distance remained the same. I can recommend that.
I'm going to mountain with my V-strom 650 Xt with offroad tire to test some techniques learned from you ... we'll see if they will work on me.. thanks from italy
I just put a ruler on the screen to measure the distance from his shin to the front fork on the first bike. on Brets bike that distance was 30 - 40% greater.
Thank you! 6'4" here with a 35" inseam, riding an 04 V-Strom 1000 with 1.5" risers and a peg lowering kit, and was wondering why I didn't feel like the risers helped much. Well...as shown in this video, all I'd really done was move the bars back toward me! I got that fixed and tilted the controls even more forward, and I feel much more in control! Bummer is, the barkbusters now hit the fairing before reaching full lock. :-/ Not that big a deal, I'm getting used to it. Oh, and ankles against the bike REVOLUTIONIZED my riding!! Thank you! Subscribed. :-)
i am 6'2' ( 186cm) ride a V strom 650 and felt very uncomfortable. I undertook a GS course and the guys there were great, They made the adjustments you said in the video to increase the distance between my hands and my hips. It was great. However one of the trainers suggested i ride the GS 1250 and instantly, like Travis, i noticed the posture improvement and comfort. But i could not identify what it was. Thanks Bret i now know why i really need a GS 1250 😊
Thanks Brett. Great that you addressed what is a widespread issue affecting many riders, whether we realise it or not! Personally I came from a 12 GS LC to a T7 because I was wanting something better n gravel roads. For seating no contest, T7 is able to be ridden like a dirt bike as in when sitting one is able to really get one’s weight over that front, it’s truly confidence inspiring. Unfortunately I have nothing like the same confidence when standing which is the polar opposite to my old bike. Consider myself ‘average’ height at 5 ten and a half. The T7 just feels much wider than the GS between the knees. Just highlights how there is no such thing as a bad bike as in they each have their strengths. I wish I could get comfortable (better positioned) on the T7 but watching this gives me some hope! Cheers
Thank you for the video, as a 6'8 i can relate everything you described. One thing i have a hard time while standing is rear breaking and shifting. I have 15 size boots and have a shifter extension. Ride a GSA.
I wear the same size boots and don't need a shifter extension on any bike (including the GS). Move the shifter a tad higher than your footpeg and try that. Also, when standing up drop your heels (that's one of the reasons I disagree with Bret on the "don't necessarily ride on your balls of your feet" - I think it's a much better position to ride, especially when you are very tall like us, I'm 6'9" without the boots).
@@AlexLima-com I currently ride a 500EXC, a 990 Adventure with a 1meter+ seat height (stretched suspension to 280mm) and a GTR1400 sports touring. I am an ex-pro athlete and I was always very flexible so almost everything works fine. The better the technique the more relaxed the ride in the end. That is why in recent years I've been playing with hard enduro and practice regularly the basic techniques. You can't imagine the huge difference technique makes to everything you ride afterwards. I could recommend you a few YTers with great material for practicing said techniques but YT usually deletes those comments.
Seeing Travis on the GS, I imagine one of those cartoon bubbles with "ouch" pointing to his lower back because it looks like his hips are over the pegs and all that upper body is held up by either back muscles or weight on the handlebars. Since Travis is a good rider I know its not the latter. I'm only 6'2" (Travis is what, 5'-20"?) but I like the Rox risers plumb with just a tiny bit of forward rotation on the bars to reduce the back strain. I have to consciously remind myself constantly to keep my elbows out, and more forward rotation on the bars just exacerbates that problem.
I'm constantly doing the same - reminding myself to keep elbows out, rotate forward, and bend at the hips. Now that I have to add adjusting my feet in and gripping with my ankles, the voices in my head are going hoarse :) Also, FYI, my back (really entire body) was actually more comfortable when I was bent over that way on the GS. I'm not sure how it would be after a long day of standing, but I'm working to improve the ATAS, so I'll have more info soon.
Thank you for this! Being 6'7 and riding a Honda CB500x there was a lot of information here I could relate too! I'm gonna try to focus on these tips and experiment on my next ride :)
thanks Bret for another great video.....I've been setting up my tenere 700 and it makes all the difference when set up right....just the small things can make such an improvement....I'm still not getting the brake lever hight right for standing...but it's all part of the fun lol
I bought a “ special “ pair of renthal handlebars for my 450 husqvarna. They have no back bend . When you sit / stand you are “ automatically “ in the attack position. I am 6ft 3 inches with long arms and legs. Dropping the footrest s helps massively and angling throttle/ levers down so that when you are standing You have far more control
One thing that I find really helps is to roll the handlebars forward when going off road. On my F800GS it gives me a more comfortable riding position and only takes loosening four bolts to achieve. It also helps with relocating the levers. In other words, I don't have to rotate them as much for off road because they rotate with the bars. Yes, I would like flatter bars but ,until I get them, this is a good 'second place' idea.
As a 2m (6' 7'') rider, also on ATAS, I think You covered all basic issues. Lowered footpegs, tank grip, proper position of handlebar and levers works best for me, also anchoring to the bike with ankles is good tip. Standing on the balls of feet works good for me when not in technical sections, it pushes me away from handlebar.
Always something to learn. Everything else I've done or do, but the foot angle vs foot squeeze was a good one I'll try out. I will say a good triangle for tall folks...your abs get a crazy workout.
This is my whole motorbike life 🤣 Ahh the life of a lanky bugga 6’7” Couple of GSA’s so far, back now back to a 2014 Vstrom 1000 Tall seat, lowered foot pegs, bars twisted up etc. I like the idea of a different bar, but no idea where to start on that journey. Great vid, thanks
What worked for me on CRF250L when I was finally tired of back/shoulder pains was to stand on the balls of feet and rotate stock handlebar forward with 30mm riser, so handlebar ended in same position from my body due to rotation, just higher, and I got more distance from handlebar by standing on balls of feet. Handlebar like that is not "by the book" but it works for me and riding distance before pain is greater. Standing on balls of feet gets your right foot away from rear brake so its center foot on downhill and where expected to brake with rear. IMO its cheap way of fixing it, for me works for whole day rides. Stuff from this video is entirely correct though, if you really want to fix it how it should be, new bars new pegs.
Im 6’6 and ride a 2016 africa twin i find that rotating the handlebars about 15deg forward makes allot of difference. Further i agree with locking in at the ankle and lower leg while standing in combination with the feet forward instead of out. Have ridden allot of deep sand using youre techniques from videos like this leaning back and keeping momentum while letting the bike move. Great videos i always try youre techniques out !
@@BretTkacs yes i did, i think the stock bars on the 2016 at are fine for me now i have rotated them forwards. I get through deep sand and ruts without losing control. Youre video’s are helpfull in finding ways to get the bike setup and also riding techniques i learned allot !
Very helpful, even for a 6 footer. I’m trying to set up an older KTM 690 I just purchased and when I stand my triangle is very flat (like Travis on his AT). Was planning to get bar risers but will go back and do a deeper analysis. Thanks, Bret, for your always thoughtful contributions!
You hit some key point for tall riders. For me, drop down moved to rear pegs are #1, #2 KTM allows different triple clamp locations for the bars so I always go furthest forward, #3 w/ bar riser that also move bars a little forward. I ride pretty rough ADV stuff & stability & balance are key. Using boots to grip bike is very important, but I disagree about also using your knees. I wear knee braces when I ride and have found using as much grip advantage with lower legs & knees means for less fatigue at end of the day. I rarely sit when riding the dirt except maybe a wide open fire road. I also use knee when turning the bike to create more lean. 🙂
I'm 6'4 on an R1250GS. Bret, I've definitely felt what you describe about the risers on the Tiger 800 I had. I fit big ROX risers and despite my efforts, they really closed up that 'triangle' and made it hard to crouch. On the GS I've done nothing more than lower the footpegs and roll the handlebars forward and it feels much more easy to control (with a little crouch), I think.
@@gmoneymac23 I went with the machined BMW ones which have the springloaded rubber pad. They're manufactured by Gilles Tooling - you can buy them from Gilles Tooling direct. I haven't had an issue with them scraping despite being in the 20mm lower position and getting to the edge of my tyres. The main issue on the GS is that the OEM rear brake is not adjustable for height, so as you lower the footpeg you're effectively raising your brakelever. Great for standing riding, not great for seated riding.
Thanks so much Bret! I have a follow up question on handlebar risers. For me on my bike I found I was bending my knees far too much and exhausting myself and/or bending my back such that I put too much weight on my wrists standing up. After installing risers, I was able to stand with less exertion and felt much more in control of the bike because I was able to "lock in" with my knees and lower legs much better. So when you talked about how risers close up the triangle of stability I'm a bit confused because as I understood it my weight should be going through my legs into the pegs rather than into the handlebars which a wider triangle would encourage. Could you maybe explain the reasoning behind that? Or is what i felt maybe a quirk of my particular bike?
I learned a lot from watching this, even though I'm around Bret's height. In particular, I saw how unstable standing too straight was, so I'm going to focus on getting a better triangle now.
I'm glad I watched this video I was thinking about risers for my bike I'm 61 and thinking that that was the fix but you have opened my eyes to proper stance so I will change my thoughts and go with your With your technique and recommendations and see if it fixes my problem thanks again keep doing what you do and I'll keep watching paul 😉
I’m 6’11”, 275 lbs, riding a WR250R. I have 1” lower Knight Design foot pegs, 3.5” Rox risers rotated forward at a 45 degree angle, Tusk Chub ATV high bars, 5” longer Motion Pro throttle and clutch cables and wires all lengthened, brake pedal and shift lever lengthened and lowered and Seat Concepts 1” taller comfort seat. These changes raised my handlebars about 3” up and also moved them forward about 3”. The handlebar/riser change, along with the 1” lower foot pegs made a huge improvement over stock. Much more comfortable now standing up. Gripping the bike with the lower legs is essential because my knees are above the tank. Not sure why Bret didn’t mention rolling the Rox risers forward as it’s made a huge difference for me and gave me some of that length, front to back, that we need for stability.
Hi Bret, I hadn't seen your other video on risers, where you talked about the benefits of the rotating risers. That other video explains the benefits of the rotating risers, I just think you could have mentioned it here, in this video, after explaining why using traditional risers actually shortens the cockpit for tall riders. You mentioned that rotating the risers forward may make the steering kind of funky, but from my experience riding fire roads around Seattle, I've never experienced any weird feeling affecting the steering as a result of my rotated forward riser setup. Works and feels great for me. One correction to my prior response, my knees are able to grip the tank, they are not above the tank, but I really grip with the boots and legs below the knees. Thanks for your help!@@BretTkacs
Finally dutch rides technique and set up tips ;) This video makes so much sense. As a relatively new ADV rider I thought it was supposed to feel not that stable whilst standing, but it is exactly this lack of stability due to the short distance between hips and arms that you mention. What I am missing in this video, is exactly HOW to improve the bike setup though? Can I rotate the stock bars upwards to achieve this distance?
@@BretTkacs Thank you very much! That is indeed perfect. I can't believe I missed that video as I have watched practically every other video of yours. Tomorrow I am going to try a 10 degree rotation, and see how that changes the dynamics.
I'm just shy of 195cm/6'5" with a stupidly long inseam of 95cm/37". Riding a 2014 KTM Enduro R. Apart from the highest Seat Concepts saddle, I have dropped and drawn back the Pivot Pegs and installed Rox Risers 40mm/1.75" and rolled them a smidge forward of (vertical) the equivalent stock position so not closer to my body - already rolled the bar forward and dropped the hand controls a few cm. Would have gone 50mm/2" Rox Risers, but cautious around brake line constraints at full lock (may sort this out at the next major service and go next size up on the risers}. The addition of Steg Pegz has definitely helped me grip the bike with my boots and lower leg. Using two "pucks" each side at the moment - this doesn't make me feel that I'm restricted or too locked in. Leverage is great and takes a huge weight off my arms, particularly when standing up on steep hills. The finesse is in the foot position - up hill I rest the ball of the foot on the peg and engage the Steg Pegz with my calf so forces a bit of bend in the knee. This improves the attack position up hill, makes me more stable, but relieves arm fatigue. I use Pod knee braces and they also distribute a bit of pressure when gripping the bike.
Yes!! I've heard it all, over and over again. 6'3" ; 210# and the air up here is just fine up here shorty! 🤣👌 I have 2" Rox Risers on my Super10. And I'm standing in the slightly bent position. Now I'm gonna watch the vid and report back. Edit: While sitting on the 10 I'm totally comfortable and not cramped in the knee bend. I always adjust my levers down to avoid the L wrist bending. I'm gonna look at the triangle grip to hip positioning asap. I think that may be my Achilles heal at this point. Very informative episode 👏 👍. Cheers 🍻, G. In beautiful Boulder City Nv. USA 🇺🇲
I request a compilation video of Bret masterfully taking his helmet off and putting on his beret instantaneously. Bret's beret. I'm not joking or making fun, he is truly skillful.
Interesting perspetive from the second floor ;-) There are many things to consider for taller riders. Thanks for your tipps and tricks, food for thought. Günter from Nürnberg/Germany
I'm 6'3 and over my years of learning to ride I found that the normal tips people usually give just don't work for us. My main problem with having the bars low is that I end up hunched over and killing my lower back. Other then that these pretty much nail what I do when I ride.
A new rider 6’4” with 38 inseam. I’ve got a BMW F650GS Dakar. To get my bike slightly better I got lower foot pegs although I wish they went backwards too. I have risers on but they can’t rotate forwards due to the screen. The stock screen is awful on the highway. I’ve only gone off-road a little bit but I feel so unstable standing up. I thought it was just me but you described it perfectly in this video.
If you want text notification for new videos, text "Tkacs" to 888-306-7782 (now say that 5 times fast... "text Tkacs to"
You need to do a similar thing on short riders. People give these "oh you can do this" pat on the shoulder bull crap without realizing that how many riding techniques aren't really possible for 5'4" guy/gal on 36" high seat. No dabbing, no rocking bike to hook up.. try starting up loose steep hill. Or do slide turns. Even tight turn on prone to flameouts bike is adventure lol3
I'm 77" tall on a KLR650 and was battling the windshields and setups for months, until I just cut the windshield off, deflected the air down and away, and got the helmet into clean air. Zero turbulence. Happiness is.
Thanks again Bret! It was an absolute blast working with you and I can't believe how much I learned during this experience about changing my techniques.
I have an AT as well, did riding the GS make you consider switching?
@@QTipCan Not really. I absolutely love my ATAS - I just need to modify it so it's as comfortable as the GS. Bret had his bike set up right for taller riders, so I'm trying to mimic that a little. Specficially, I'm looking at different handlebars that will give me more space and trying to find lower footpegs.
What’s your height and wingspan? Three 6’4”+ riders in my family. Thanks for your contributions to this video. We are taking notes
@@philjarch 6’5” and about 205-210 depending how good the hamburgers are 😁
@@philjarch Ha! I read weight, not wingspan… I’ve got about a 78” wingspan - fingertip to fingertip.
I'm 6'4" also on an AT.
Took a class with Bret and Paul. Paul walked up and (gently) kicked my foot in against the frame. It changed everything about body placement. I was more stable and learned a lot more about locking into the bike.
Bret mentioned later I should get drop pegs. I was hesitant at first and I WAS WRONG. They help so much and they don't limit clearance at all.
All that to say this: as a tall rider, these tips are huge, but also if you can swing it, taking a class helps. Having someone watch your ride and give you active adjustment tips is absolutely massive. Again, if you can swing it. :)
Where did you find drop pegs for your AT? I have a 2021 and have found no options ...
Hey Zak, 6'4.5" here, and looking to adapt my new (to me) 2017 AT. Which pegs did you go with? And did you do anything to the bars?
What pegs did you end up grabbing?
Search "Ion pegs crf1100." Sw-motech carries em.
Throwing a comment on so you know how many tall riders appreciate this type of content. 6'5" AT rider here. Definitely some things I'm going to look at on my bike to adjust for better geometry. Keep the tall beta flowing.
6‘4 with 37“ inseam. Thanks for recognizing us outcasts of the motorsport world! Usually all I see are tutorials how-to-lower-your-bike when it comes to ergonomics. On top of that I’m 180lbs (yes, I’m eating enough, I just don’t gain weight), talk about finding clothes that fit!
I‘m riding a T7 with rally seat and have already ordered lower pegs. Like everything else, they are out of stock, though.
Thanks for your outstanding work Bret!
Finding clothes are the worst - ha! I always thought there should be a store called tall and slim 😁
@@travisfranklin107 That would be a dream come true!
There are a couple of brands with a tall option for pants but unfortunately that seems to be uncommon for jackets.
I ended up with a Klim Carlsbad in M, the one everybody complains about for having too long sleeves. Perfect fit for me!
6.2. Riser, bars pushed forward, levers down, throttle rolled backward so when leaning back I don’t have any unwanted throttle revs, pivot pegs, feet and knee gripping
Cheers Bret and Travis. 6’6” w/36” inseam. This is all good advice and many of the comments provided by other freaks like me have also been very informative.
Thank you, thank you, thank you for this video. Videos of tips for shorter riders are a dime a dozen but finding something that just takes a few minutes for focus on us tall guys is really difficult.
I'm 6'6" with a 36" inseam and I immediately identified with everything you said.
I'm not sure I'll find a locking point for my knees on my Husky 701 but I have a starting point now.
Thank you, Bret.
Good review of ergos regardless of rider size. Great video guys!
One of the biggest changes that improved my riding was to improve my balance while riding. Constantly doing no dab stop and go's, or trying to go as slow as possible without putting a foot down. Learning to use the rear brake, clutch and throttle to help balance and make the bike do what I want it to when it tries to get out of line. All of this really made a dramatic difference and made it so I could ride my 38 inch tall seat height ktm 950 SE like it was a dirt bike and really have the confidence to tackle any obstacle I come across. Improving your riding skills and technique is #1 for me. I feel way to many people focus on a seat height number but you will never get better if all you do is sit on a seat and paddle along.
I am 6.3 (191cm) and the most significant change for my bike fitting are lower footpegs and pivot risers. Also the right setup for the levers makes a difference in riding comfort.
Great lab work! Your opening lines had me laughing hard.
As a 6'7" (2m) rider of a BMW 2011 1200 GSA, I found the 1" Rok risers necessary when riding on-road, to keep me from leaning too far forward and causing back and shoulder strain.
When I'm riding off-road I keep my handlebar wrench handy and can rotate the bars forward to a more comfortable and stable position.
From your video I've learned to pay attention to that more stable, triangle position when standing. Thank you!
Now if I could just find gear that fit better...
Aren't you resting knees on cylinder heads? It was a problem for me when trying GSA, also kicking engine every time I was putting my foot down.
Try gear from RICHA if it's available in your area, they have most gear also in long version and comes with D3O armor, so it does not push or pull on knees :) But separate knee armour under pants works best
Klim sells tall sizes
Pivoting Rox Risers are a must for me. I use the 2" variant rotated forward and I'm 6'9" on a 500EXC and a 990 Adventure (among other bikes). I also typically use the Renthal RC High Fat-Bar.
6 ft 3 " I took a lot of good points from this vlog which is helping me ride my Africa Twin DCT 2018 particularly regarding bar risers I now realise I don't need them and using my lower legs and feet position rather then my knees , so using these techniques is making me feel stable and safe and balanced fantastic channel 😀
Informative video. On my previous 790r and my current 890r I did a 1 inch riser, lower pegs, and a taller seat. I also rotated the bars up a little bit and the levers down. Works a charm for me and gives all day comfort and I feel in control. As others have written, you can have a rise but also move the bars forward which is what I did. That said, I am very interested in seeing how I look on the bike from the side to see if I look too upright. One other little tip is that a tall seat and lower pegs make the transition from sitting to standing much easier on the knees, especially for older riders.
One “ trick” I have found helpful is when standing to sitting, swing your butt out backwards and then swing in towards the front of the seat as you come to sit down. Puts far less load on the knees. I use a knee support on my right knee and sport gel before each off road ride .😀
As a new ADV rider long time street rider I find your tips very valuable. I have a 34” inseam and recently bought a Pan America. I found the tip about moving the clutch and throttle location. My R arm and wrist don’t bend like they used to so this tip really helped. Hopefully some day I can take your class because education is key. People will spend a fortune on upgrades and never invest in their riding skills.
One thing that helps a lot big hand riders is to get the levers inwards (towards the center) away from the tips of the handlebars, so as you can use two or even one finger to operate the levers. It also protects them from falls.
Thanks Brett. I’m 6’6” (1.98) w/36” inseam and size 15 (50) boots. I had a ktm 990 and now a Tenere 700. I have found the following have given me more comfort, control and hence confidence, especially when standing. Good quality well fitting boots with a stiffish sole. Allow to grip with lower leg and less tiring when standing ( sidi adventure size 50)
I open up my stance a little by having lowered and slight rear offset pegs ( Bosley -30 -20back Rally so bigger than standard) and shifted handle bars up and away slightly with risers (Rox 2” pivoting riser) standard seat on the KTM but I increased the seat height on the T7 (custom made by upholsterer $100). This not only increase seated comfort but makes transition to standing much easier for my old tired body.
Also angled the levers down. Had to modify brake on the ktm but shifter and brake ok on t7.
One thing is for sure, there are really tall riders out there, quite a few of them, and we are glad that there are videos like this that improve our techniques. Thanks.
You can't get a better free video with so much information. I went from a very quick and great handling Fat Bob to a Pan America. My balls Thank me. The heat was a killer in traffic. My first enduro bike was a 86 XR 500 made street legal. Enjoy your efforts Brett.
Thanks Bret, love your videos! I´m a 6' 7 rider (also on the Africa Twin) and the knee support thing has been my biggest issue for stability, will definitely try to anchor more from the lower legs on my next ride and not worry so much about the knees
Preach, brothers. My bike felt like a Grom until I made most of the ergonomic changes Bret suggested here and in earlier videos. The only thing I haven't done yet is to rotate the handlebar up by a degree or two, but I'll get around to it soon. Thanks for the helpful videos!
Great advice for fitting any bike and I'll certainly be using this video to continue improving the fit of my own!
The best single bit of advice for my bike (2019 AT) was from one of your videos specifically on making the AT fit yourself. That was to spin the handlebar clamps around 180 degrees as they aren't symmetrical, giving just that little bit of extra reach so they don't feel quite so in your lap
6'5" (196 cm), Yamaha Tenere. Lowered the pegs, raised the handlebars, put a rally seat. To be honest I think there are limited options that you can do on your bike, but rather adapt your riding style according to situation. One thing that is on my mind is installing a higher handlebar (like protaper adventure high model), but I'm not sure if there would be more cons than pros in doing that....Anyway, superb and useful video!
Great video! So many others out there about short people riding bikes. Finally something specific for tall people!
As a tall rider (1.90m/6.23ft), this is so helpfull and true.
I've recognize every situation I've encounter with a bike not correctly set for me.
Thanks a lot to help me understand why I was unstable and unconfortable, and how to fix that !
Handlebar forward was the key for me (6'2"). On the KTM 790 Adv R I put it in the most forward of the 6 positions and raised it (up and forward) 1 line. I also removed the rubber insets on the foot pegs, gaining about a quarter inch in height.
Yup. I went up 1.5" and forward a bit on my Strom. I think that once I get flatter bars and some lowering pegs, I'll be in a good spot
Another great video - thank you. I’m 6’4 and lowered my pegs. It’s great when sitting but due to the design my feet are now pushed 1/2-3/4 inch outwards which give me even less grip around the bike and tank. Be mindful about this when choosing your pegs. Furtfer, I was unable to adjust the rear break lever and gear lever low enough to fit the pegs…
Thanks Bret! Needed this one being at 6,5ft. I tend to try and find thinner sole boots to help cut down that inseam a touch. I also tend to sit a lot more than most riders and stand when conditions call for it.
Yes I ride off road a lot and sit down more than most. Interestingly watch off road racers , they sit down much more than you might imagine. On big downhills your height is an advantage. You can get that big old butt right over the rear edge of seat/ mudguard which helps with balance and traction.
Excellent training video. I've got a 890r and am 6'4". I've found myself sitting a bit more than standing off road. My buddies always stand and said i needed to but i wasn't as comfortable standing like i was sitting. This made me feel better about sitting. Thanks.
Thanks for that info mate. May I ask You, as I am about same height as u are. Do I have a chance fitting on a 890 ADV (standard version), as i do more road than off-rad riding? Thanks
Bret, I'm 6'6", am 20 years into riding, and this video taught me quite a bit. I appreciate you and the effort you put forth to educate and entertain. Keep going, brother!
Thanks for this. I see so much advice and mods for short riders, but this is the first time I’ve seen something for us tall riders.
Great input!...I'm 6'9 285lb 40 inch inseam...been riding for 45 yeads...raced for 20.
Your insight is remarkable and appreciated
Thanks Travis! At 6’5” bikes don’t fit me. The tank with knees doesn’t make sense. But size 13 boots means longer higher shifter.
These last videos on rider set up have been needed in the community for some time! Well done, and thank you! Ride safe!
Great job, Bret (and Travis). I like the way you are refining your posture/"weightless rider" methodology. And what you are saying makes all the sense in the world to this tall(ish) rider. Also, I just bought a set of the Techspec sheets and you've provided good food for thought on fitting them.
I watch lots of videos by different coaches but yours convince me to go and change things on the spot...I appreciate it!
Thank you for this one, I'm 6'4 and always know I'm outta form dimensionally for just about everything. The Africa Twin was just icing on the cake ;)
I have a 35" inseam. Ride a T7 and GSA. I have been using the Rok risers but pivoting them forwards. So the bars stay the proper distance from my body. Plus on the BMWs I lower the foot pegs. On the T7 I seem to ride more sitting. Only standing if the terrain is rough or very technical.
@BA Mills, what drop pegs are you using on the GSA?
Good video again fellas.
Keep your feet in. Always.
Catching one on an edge will teach you that really quick.
Great tips. Thanks Bret and Travis. I’ll be doing some experimenting this weekend!
Bret... Thank you soooooo much... Weeks ago I think I tried to write you asking for part of this information in Instagram... With 6'3", 15 shoe size, 34" inseam and starting with a GSA recently I needed to do some special adjustments, the rod of the gear pedal I had to make it shorter for more than 10mm, brake pedal I needed to move it down as much as possible. My bike came with the raisers, stock handle bar at 10 degrees and after this I will test with out them. I'm trying pivot pegs but I would like to move them lower and back... But still working on that... Wind shield is a problem... Even in the lower position. Thank you for sharing this and for the collaboration of Travis...
I'm not a fan of the pivot pegs but some riders swear by them... mostly because they don't work well with some techniques I teach/use
@@BretTkacs any recommendations about the pegs? Lowered and back? Thanks again
At 6'6" on an Africa Twin, I can appreciate this video... It's hard to find content geared towards teaching those "tall person" techniques. Thanks, Brett! (and the tall lab rat guy🤣)
6ft6 on a 2017 AT. Great to see this subject discussed, thanks. I wanted the Adventure Sports model but found the wider tank a problem due to the scoop not being high enough and pushing my knees out while seated. AS has a taller seat so I got one of those on my 2017. Also rox style risers rolled forward and bars rolled forward too. Stiffer springs all round too... fits great now.
6’4”/34” inseam rider here, in the process of getting my KLR back on the road after three years on my Himalayan. Makes a strong case for ditching the old bar risers and ordering a pair of lowered pegs from JNS. Oh, and a day dedicated to adapting the old advice to the new setup! Thanks for the clear, thorough communication!
Brilliant tips, I love the idea of trying to grip using my boots / calves etc because otherwise trying to grip the tank is like for Travis and I'm getting all anxious about it and not getting a comfortable grip so I end up just sitting almost everywhere..
So thank you Bret and thank you Travis for being the lab rat..
My day job is mechanical engineering. I don't work in aerospace, but I do understand some fluid dynamics issues. I've played around with windshields on a former V-Strom 1000XT. The only good windshield on that bike was no windshield. Yes I'm 6'-2". All that turbulent air between the low pressure void and the high pressure flowing air, usually ends up at the base of the helmet. Great way to induce a lot of mental fatigue, even with quality earplugs seated well in the ear canals. So frustrating.
Great video and much appreciated. I have struggled with working out my positioning because all bikes i have ridden have been configured for shorter riders. I am rebuilding my bike now and I will be looking at some of these ideas.
Bret,the tip on positioning the insole close to the bike, then standing up… make great sense to me! I’ll put some of these tips to practice soon!
Thanks Bret, awesome video!
6'7" with a 38" inseam on a DR650. Rolling your levers down will be a huge benefit to taller folk, and rolling your bars forward will give you a little more height and space. The feet gripping technique I am looking forward to trying 🙂
Spot on man! I did the same to my DR and it made a huge difference. Did you also add lowered foot pegs?
I'm actually surprised Bret didn't mention rolling the handlebars forward. On some bikes, there may be a clearance issue, but most can move a couple of inches. Fit is a game of inches. Not only does it move the bars up and forward it can also change the angle of the hand grips which you have to keep in mind.
@@PetrolJunkie Great point! Is does make a huge difference. I am also surprised also that he did not mention it.
Cheers!
Rolling the levers down is definitely better for standing, but I hate it for general comuting/highway riding. Also 6'3" on a DR
Careful with the rolling the bar forward tip. The sweep angle changes and when you tilt the handlebar forward a V-shape handlebar grip is emerging and that's going to toll your wrists. The bars need to be as flat/horizontal as possible when you grab them.
Finally a video on bikes for tall riders with actual in-practice analysis and tips, and an actual tall guy (my height) on the bike! Thanks for the great video.
Great information Brett and Travis! I am 6'2" and have encountered the same issues you expertly covered in this video. I have also rotated the levers down on the handlebars to get a better riding position when standing. Also added lowered pegs on my DR650. Thank you again!
Cheers!
Thank's Bret. There are so many Statements out for smaller rider, but less addressing the problems people > 1,90cm (>6.2feet) have.
Brilliant👍 6’5” and struggle with a lot of bikes for a good fit. These tips were really helpful. Great chanel got even better!
That was beyond S U P E R B !!!
At 71, contemplating learning to ride (to explore, ONLY), at 6/2" with a 35" inseam (able to flat-foot over a 37" dirt bike), I was concerned about feeling top-heavy and insecure, standing. Previous to your handlebar video, I hadn't thought about the fork caster angling handlebar risers BACK INTO the rider (closing the 'cockpit'). I still worry about throttle control, standing up.
Lowering my pegs helped so much. It felt like I lowered my center of gravity way down when I did it. I also used the ROX risers and raised my bars but I pivoted them forward so I have the same distance. 6’5 and flat foot my KLR standing and when sitting I fold my knees.
Thanks for doing a video for tall riders.
ROX risers here also. Extra pivot point makes the difference. Turn it forward as well as move it upward.
Of course, KTM also allows for three-position forward/rearward adjustment and that’s nice.
rox offset risers move handlebar away from rider. rox pivoting risers can also pivot away from the rider. one can combine the offset risers and pivoting risers to find ideal position. get handlebar with less sweep and, if one adds risers, one can add handlebar with less sweep and lower rise.
I put risers, but angled instead of straight. I directed them forwards, so the bar went up but not towards me. The distance remained the same. I can recommend that.
For me the keypoint is by far.. Taking the time to find the right setup even if you are short, standard or tall. Feel the bike instead of fighting it.
I'm going to mountain with my V-strom 650 Xt with offroad tire to test some techniques learned from you ... we'll see if they will work on me.. thanks from italy
I just put a ruler on the screen to measure the distance from his shin to the front fork on the first bike. on Brets bike that distance was 30 - 40% greater.
Thank you! 6'4" here with a 35" inseam, riding an 04 V-Strom 1000 with 1.5" risers and a peg lowering kit, and was wondering why I didn't feel like the risers helped much. Well...as shown in this video, all I'd really done was move the bars back toward me! I got that fixed and tilted the controls even more forward, and I feel much more in control! Bummer is, the barkbusters now hit the fairing before reaching full lock. :-/ Not that big a deal, I'm getting used to it. Oh, and ankles against the bike REVOLUTIONIZED my riding!! Thank you! Subscribed. :-)
i am 6'2' ( 186cm) ride a V strom 650 and felt very uncomfortable. I undertook a GS course and the guys there were great, They made the adjustments you said in the video to increase the distance between my hands and my hips. It was great. However one of the trainers suggested i ride the GS 1250 and instantly, like Travis, i noticed the posture improvement and comfort. But i could not identify what it was. Thanks Bret i now know why i really need a GS 1250 😊
I'm just gonna smash the Like button based on the intro. Thanks, Brett. I feel seen, not merely observed.
Not everyone appreciates my humor... Thanks for laughing
Thanks Brett. Great that you addressed what is a widespread issue affecting many riders, whether we realise it or not! Personally I came from a 12 GS LC to a T7 because I was wanting something better n gravel roads. For seating no contest, T7 is able to be ridden like a dirt bike as in when sitting one is able to really get one’s weight over that front, it’s truly confidence inspiring. Unfortunately I have nothing like the same confidence when standing which is the polar opposite to my old bike. Consider myself ‘average’ height at 5 ten and a half. The T7 just feels much wider than the GS between the knees. Just highlights how there is no such thing as a bad bike as in they each have their strengths. I wish I could get comfortable (better positioned) on the T7 but watching this gives me some hope! Cheers
From a 6'4" rider this was an EXCELLENT video - thank you!!
Thanks for sharing these tips & trics. I'm for sure going to test & try them. Thx again.
Thank you for the video, as a 6'8 i can relate everything you described. One thing i have a hard time while standing is rear breaking and shifting. I have 15 size boots and have a shifter extension. Ride a GSA.
I wear the same size boots and don't need a shifter extension on any bike (including the GS). Move the shifter a tad higher than your footpeg and try that. Also, when standing up drop your heels (that's one of the reasons I disagree with Bret on the "don't necessarily ride on your balls of your feet" - I think it's a much better position to ride, especially when you are very tall like us, I'm 6'9" without the boots).
Agreed, what do you ride at 6'9? How comfortable is it?
@@AlexLima-com I currently ride a 500EXC, a 990 Adventure with a 1meter+ seat height (stretched suspension to 280mm) and a GTR1400 sports touring. I am an ex-pro athlete and I was always very flexible so almost everything works fine.
The better the technique the more relaxed the ride in the end.
That is why in recent years I've been playing with hard enduro and practice regularly the basic techniques. You can't imagine the huge difference technique makes to everything you ride afterwards.
I could recommend you a few YTers with great material for practicing said techniques but YT usually deletes those comments.
Seeing Travis on the GS, I imagine one of those cartoon bubbles with "ouch" pointing to his lower back because it looks like his hips are over the pegs and all that upper body is held up by either back muscles or weight on the handlebars. Since Travis is a good rider I know its not the latter. I'm only 6'2" (Travis is what, 5'-20"?) but I like the Rox risers plumb with just a tiny bit of forward rotation on the bars to reduce the back strain. I have to consciously remind myself constantly to keep my elbows out, and more forward rotation on the bars just exacerbates that problem.
I'm constantly doing the same - reminding myself to keep elbows out, rotate forward, and bend at the hips. Now that I have to add adjusting my feet in and gripping with my ankles, the voices in my head are going hoarse :) Also, FYI, my back (really entire body) was actually more comfortable when I was bent over that way on the GS. I'm not sure how it would be after a long day of standing, but I'm working to improve the ATAS, so I'll have more info soon.
Thank you for this! Being 6'7 and riding a Honda CB500x there was a lot of information here I could relate too! I'm gonna try to focus on these tips and experiment on my next ride :)
Hi Bret , at 6’6” your opening lines cracked me up. This was brilliant and a great follow up to your handle bar riser video. Cheers
Love your vids Bret, being 6'2" with a 36" inseam and a short torso is a challenge. I look short when sitting at a table, all legs!...
thanks Bret for another great video.....I've been setting up my tenere 700 and it makes all the difference when set up right....just the small things can make such an improvement....I'm still not getting the brake lever hight right for standing...but it's all part of the fun lol
I bought a “ special “ pair of renthal handlebars for my 450 husqvarna. They have no back bend . When you sit / stand you are “ automatically “ in the attack position. I am 6ft 3 inches with long arms and legs. Dropping the footrest s helps massively and angling throttle/ levers down so that when you are standing You have far more control
As a tall rider this is MUCH appreciated!!
One thing that I find really helps is to roll the handlebars forward when going off road.
On my F800GS it gives me a more comfortable riding position and only takes loosening four bolts to achieve.
It also helps with relocating the levers. In other words, I don't have to rotate them as much for off road because they rotate with the bars.
Yes, I would like flatter bars but ,until I get them, this is a good 'second place' idea.
Can you give me some hits of where to find "flatter" bars ? I dont understand very well, for me flatter bars means lower ? 🤔
@@sebcbien263 Flatter bars are usually motocross style bars. They don't have that bend that the "cruising" style bars do.
Hope this helps.
As a 2m (6' 7'') rider, also on ATAS, I think You covered all basic issues. Lowered footpegs, tank grip, proper position of handlebar and levers works best for me, also anchoring to the bike with ankles is good tip. Standing on the balls of feet works good for me when not in technical sections, it pushes me away from handlebar.
Always something to learn. Everything else I've done or do, but the foot angle vs foot squeeze was a good one I'll try out. I will say a good triangle for tall folks...your abs get a crazy workout.
This is my whole motorbike life 🤣
Ahh the life of a lanky bugga
6’7”
Couple of GSA’s so far, back now back to a 2014 Vstrom 1000
Tall seat, lowered foot pegs, bars twisted up etc.
I like the idea of a different bar, but no idea where to start on that journey.
Great vid, thanks
What worked for me on CRF250L when I was finally tired of back/shoulder pains was to stand on the balls of feet and rotate stock handlebar forward with 30mm riser, so handlebar ended in same position from my body due to rotation, just higher, and I got more distance from handlebar by standing on balls of feet. Handlebar like that is not "by the book" but it works for me and riding distance before pain is greater. Standing on balls of feet gets your right foot away from rear brake so its center foot on downhill and where expected to brake with rear. IMO its cheap way of fixing it, for me works for whole day rides. Stuff from this video is entirely correct though, if you really want to fix it how it should be, new bars new pegs.
Im 6’6 and ride a 2016 africa twin i find that rotating the handlebars about 15deg forward makes allot of difference. Further i agree with locking in at the ankle and lower leg while standing in combination with the feet forward instead of out. Have ridden allot of deep sand using youre techniques from videos like this leaning back and keeping momentum while letting the bike move. Great videos i always try youre techniques out !
Did you see this video about rotation of the bars and riders? ua-cam.com/video/3A52heoOdek/v-deo.html
@@BretTkacs yes i did, i think the stock bars on the 2016 at are fine for me now i have rotated them forwards. I get through deep sand and ruts without losing control. Youre video’s are helpfull in finding ways to get the bike setup and also riding techniques i learned allot !
Very helpful, even for a 6 footer. I’m trying to set up an older KTM 690 I just purchased and when I stand my triangle is very flat (like Travis on his AT). Was planning to get bar risers but will go back and do a deeper analysis. Thanks, Bret, for your always thoughtful contributions!
You hit some key point for tall riders. For me, drop down moved to rear pegs are #1, #2 KTM allows different triple clamp locations for the bars so I always go furthest forward, #3 w/ bar riser that also move bars a little forward. I ride pretty rough ADV stuff & stability & balance are key. Using boots to grip bike is very important, but I disagree about also using your knees. I wear knee braces when I ride and have found using as much grip advantage with lower legs & knees means for less fatigue at end of the day. I rarely sit when riding the dirt except maybe a wide open fire road. I also use knee when turning the bike to create more lean. 🙂
Thanks Bret. Saw your post on fb and was waiting for this video. Good stuff, all great talking points. I’m 6’6”. -Josh Diamond
I'm 6'4 on an R1250GS. Bret, I've definitely felt what you describe about the risers on the Tiger 800 I had. I fit big ROX risers and despite my efforts, they really closed up that 'triangle' and made it hard to crouch. On the GS I've done nothing more than lower the footpegs and roll the handlebars forward and it feels much more easy to control (with a little crouch), I think.
What footpeg lowering kit did you use? I'm 6-5 and have a R1200GS. How did it affect street riding/leaning? Thanks.
@@gmoneymac23 I went with the machined BMW ones which have the springloaded rubber pad. They're manufactured by Gilles Tooling - you can buy them from Gilles Tooling direct.
I haven't had an issue with them scraping despite being in the 20mm lower position and getting to the edge of my tyres. The main issue on the GS is that the OEM rear brake is not adjustable for height, so as you lower the footpeg you're effectively raising your brakelever. Great for standing riding, not great for seated riding.
Thanks so much Bret! I have a follow up question on handlebar risers. For me on my bike I found I was bending my knees far too much and exhausting myself and/or bending my back such that I put too much weight on my wrists standing up. After installing risers, I was able to stand with less exertion and felt much more in control of the bike because I was able to "lock in" with my knees and lower legs much better. So when you talked about how risers close up the triangle of stability I'm a bit confused because as I understood it my weight should be going through my legs into the pegs rather than into the handlebars which a wider triangle would encourage. Could you maybe explain the reasoning behind that? Or is what i felt maybe a quirk of my particular bike?
Have you seen this video on risers? ua-cam.com/video/3A52heoOdek/v-deo.html
@@BretTkacs No I didn’t thanks! Dunno how I missed that one.
I learned a lot from watching this, even though I'm around Bret's height.
In particular, I saw how unstable standing too straight was, so I'm going to focus on getting a better triangle now.
I'm glad I watched this video I was thinking about risers for my bike I'm 61 and thinking that that was the fix but you have opened my eyes to proper stance so I will change my thoughts and go with your With your technique and recommendations and see if it fixes my problem thanks again keep doing what you do and I'll keep watching paul 😉
I have modified the seat and increased its height significantly.
I’m 6’11”, 275 lbs, riding a WR250R. I have 1” lower Knight Design foot pegs, 3.5” Rox risers rotated forward at a 45 degree angle, Tusk Chub ATV high bars, 5” longer Motion Pro throttle and clutch cables and wires all lengthened, brake pedal and shift lever lengthened and lowered and Seat Concepts 1” taller comfort seat. These changes raised my handlebars about 3” up and also moved them forward about 3”. The handlebar/riser change, along with the 1” lower foot pegs made a huge improvement over stock. Much more comfortable now standing up. Gripping the bike with the lower legs is essential because my knees are above the tank. Not sure why Bret didn’t mention rolling the Rox risers forward as it’s made a huge difference for me and gave me some of that length, front to back, that we need for stability.
I did discuss the Rox risers in the riser video. Have you seen that one?
Hi Bret, I hadn't seen your other video on risers, where you talked about the benefits of the rotating risers. That other video explains the benefits of the rotating risers, I just think you could have mentioned it here, in this video, after explaining why using traditional risers actually shortens the cockpit for tall riders. You mentioned that rotating the risers forward may make the steering kind of funky, but from my experience riding fire roads around Seattle, I've never experienced any weird feeling affecting the steering as a result of my rotated forward riser setup. Works and feels great for me. One correction to my prior response, my knees are able to grip the tank, they are not above the tank, but I really grip with the boots and legs below the knees. Thanks for your help!@@BretTkacs
Finally dutch rides technique and set up tips ;)
This video makes so much sense. As a relatively new ADV rider I thought it was supposed to feel not that stable whilst standing, but it is exactly this lack of stability due to the short distance between hips and arms that you mention.
What I am missing in this video, is exactly HOW to improve the bike setup though? Can I rotate the stock bars upwards to achieve this distance?
Watch this video on riders ua-cam.com/video/3A52heoOdek/v-deo.html
@@BretTkacs Thank you very much! That is indeed perfect. I can't believe I missed that video as I have watched practically every other video of yours.
Tomorrow I am going to try a 10 degree rotation, and see how that changes the dynamics.
I'm just shy of 195cm/6'5" with a stupidly long inseam of 95cm/37". Riding a 2014 KTM Enduro R. Apart from the highest Seat Concepts saddle, I have dropped and drawn back the Pivot Pegs and installed Rox Risers 40mm/1.75" and rolled them a smidge forward of (vertical) the equivalent stock position so not closer to my body - already rolled the bar forward and dropped the hand controls a few cm. Would have gone 50mm/2" Rox Risers, but cautious around brake line constraints at full lock (may sort this out at the next major service and go next size up on the risers}. The addition of Steg Pegz has definitely helped me grip the bike with my boots and lower leg. Using two "pucks" each side at the moment - this doesn't make me feel that I'm restricted or too locked in. Leverage is great and takes a huge weight off my arms, particularly when standing up on steep hills. The finesse is in the foot position - up hill I rest the ball of the foot on the peg and engage the Steg Pegz with my calf so forces a bit of bend in the knee. This improves the attack position up hill, makes me more stable, but relieves arm fatigue. I use Pod knee braces and they also distribute a bit of pressure when gripping the bike.
Yes!! I've heard it all, over and over again.
6'3" ; 210# and the air up here is just fine up here shorty! 🤣👌
I have 2" Rox Risers on my Super10. And I'm standing in the slightly bent position. Now I'm gonna watch the vid and report back. Edit:
While sitting on the 10 I'm totally comfortable and not cramped in the knee bend.
I always adjust my levers down to avoid the L wrist bending.
I'm gonna look at the triangle grip to hip positioning asap.
I think that may be my Achilles heal at this point. Very informative episode 👏 👍.
Cheers 🍻, G. In beautiful Boulder City Nv. USA 🇺🇲
I request a compilation video of Bret masterfully taking his helmet off and putting on his beret instantaneously.
Bret's beret. I'm not joking or making fun, he is truly skillful.
Interesting perspetive from the second floor ;-) There are many things to consider for taller riders. Thanks for your tipps and tricks, food for thought.
Günter from Nürnberg/Germany
I used cranked bar risers flipped forward to move the bar further away from me and to give me more room when sitting.
Aren’t bar risers good for long term trips? The posture is more upright and puts less stress on the hands and wrists.
I am 6'00". I have found that knee bend is the most beneficial thing for me when dealing with varying terrain.
I'm 6'3 and over my years of learning to ride I found that the normal tips people usually give just don't work for us. My main problem with having the bars low is that I end up hunched over and killing my lower back. Other then that these pretty much nail what I do when I ride.
A new rider 6’4” with 38 inseam. I’ve got a BMW F650GS Dakar. To get my bike slightly better I got lower foot pegs although I wish they went backwards too. I have risers on but they can’t rotate forwards due to the screen. The stock screen is awful on the highway. I’ve only gone off-road a little bit but I feel so unstable standing up. I thought it was just me but you described it perfectly in this video.
Thanks for a great video. I am 190cm and struggling with standing position on my bikes. Regards from Sweden 😀
You are not that tall. You can even fit the average MX bike.