You are a natural teacher with years of experience and willing to impact knowledge. I sincerely appreciate your time. You break the process down so well, I feel like I am the one doing the photoshoot and you are explaining what to do step by step. I love photography but struggle with basic concept to make the kind of image I want. You brought me a little closer today and I am grateful for your time,. I am running out tomorrow to practice what I learn after watching this video a few times. Thank you for your time, expertise and passion for teaching. I have Subscribed with a thumb's up with GRATITUDE!
Greetings to you, Sir! Great to see you are still alive and kicking! And as instructive and concise as ever. Makes me want to undust my flash gear and start shooting ;-)
You took a lot of basic concepts that so often intersect, and made them much easier to understand. The familiar question of "Where do I start?" when walking into a room will not be so overwhelming if I follow the list of simple steps you provided. Now I just need a nice Manhattan background! ;-)
Thank you so much for your tutorial and for going to the trouble of digging out the archives 🙏🏼 I learnt ‘old school’ with manual method and not so much with TTL and appreciated you sharing that simple click-down method on speedlight to reduce power. Previously I would have just worked out two and a bit stops in my head (I was counting out loud when you posed the question 😂). Great to see your interaction and behind-the-scenes with your models and to see your setups on your UA-cam and Insta - - Regards from Downunder 👍🏼 🇦🇺
I keep my metering mode to Evaluative / Matrix metering. But in the end it doesn't matter as much if you shoot in Manual Exposure mode, and meter for and expose for your subject. For that, Manual Exposure mode is the best way to control your exposure.
Thank you for the tutorial. Very helpful. Personally, I think the background citiscape could be a bit overexposed, just a bit more to lighten it up. I think it would show the back light and background without distracting from the model.
This tutorial started off great but once he got to setting flash manually he made it much harder than it has to be. You don't need a meter. Determine the exposure for the background and then dial in manually flash power until you get the desired exposure.
I'm new to speed lights and thank you for the video..very instructive, but I have a question about using speed lights in the studio without any ambient light. If I try to take a shot using the off camera speed light without turning on an over head light the camera doesn't recognize any light and the shutter won't take the shot. Is there a setting in camera that I need to adjust so I don't need any ambient light in the studio?
First step -- what are your camera settings? And at those settings, which the flash switched off, do you even see any part of your subject? If your settings are carefully chosen, the ambient light most likely won't even register.
@@AlexandriaGeorgiades-p5v-- if your flashes are powerful enough, and your setting are such that the ambient light doesn't register much, then there is no need to have blackout conditions in your (home) studio. For example, in my studio, typical camera / flash settings for headshots are: 1/200 @ f/8 @ 100 ISO ... and at these settings the fluorescent lights in the studio don't even register. If I take a photo without the flash firing, the resulting image is nearly completely black. So I usually just keep the house lights one. We can see easily and the camera has no problem focusing. So just confirm and tell us what your camera settings are ... and if at those settings, the ambient light registers.
You are entirely correct. I messed up on that point. Hopefully though, the rest of the tutorial made enough sense that you'd be able to create magic on your own.
Okay, you all guilted me into digging through my files from 10 years ago, and I found the images. I somehow neglected to add a final image to the video, and UA-cam doesn't allow me to replace a video. So I therefore added the final image in this linked blog post: neilvn.com/tangents/off-camera-flash-tutorial-balancing-flash-with-ambient-light/
nice tuto. looking the burnt background on the video, we don't imagine F/4 iso 400. what was the speed ? 1/250sec to darken background as much as possible while avoiding HSS ? but why 400 iso for background which adds noise and increase shutter speed (would be 1/60sec at 100iso too slow for shooting handheld ?) for background and the exposure with flash later? what would happen at 100 iso ?
The decision here again was to have a shutter speed that is hand-holdable. I don't want to risk camera shake or subject movement. There isn't all that much noticeable noise at 400 ISO with modern cameras. It should be an easily accessible ISO setting.
@@linusfotograf -- not necessarily. It depends on a few factors, including how bright the existing light is ... which influences you shutter speed. Here's more on the topic: neilvn.com/tangents/flash-freeze-movement-at-slow-shutter-speeds/
@@neilvn Thanks. I will shoot a portrait on saturday where I want to get some light bulbs to show up. They will be the only ambient. I will use studio strobes as my main light. The subject will stand still. I should be sble to get the bulbs to be bright and have my subject frozen, right?
I somehow neglected to add a final image to the video, and UA-cam doesn't allow me to replace a video. So I therefore added the final image in this linked blog post: neilvn.com/tangents/off-camera-flash-tutorial-balancing-flash-with-ambient-light/
As it clearly mentions in the description: This video tutorial is one in a series that originally appeared on the Click website in 2012, but licensing has now reverted back to me, and here we are - a tutorial that might be dated in terms of some of the gear used, but the principles remain the same.
I keep my metering mode to Evaluative / Matrix metering. But in the end it doesn't matter as much if you shoot in Manual Exposure mode, and meter for and expose for your subject. For that, Manual Exposure mode is the best way to control your exposure.
You are a great teacher!
Thank you for the kind words.
I wish You taught class in person, I would take it in a heartbeat. Your voice is so soothing and zen...Thank you from California!
You are a natural teacher with years of experience and willing to impact knowledge. I sincerely appreciate your time. You break the process down so well, I feel like I am the one doing the photoshoot and you are explaining what to do step by step. I love photography but struggle with basic concept to make the kind of image I want. You brought me a little closer today and I am grateful for your time,. I am running out tomorrow to practice what I learn after watching this video a few times. Thank you for your time, expertise and passion for teaching. I have Subscribed with a thumb's up with GRATITUDE!
Thank you for the kind words!
Greetings to you, Sir! Great to see you are still alive and kicking! And as instructive and concise as ever. Makes me want to undust my flash gear and start shooting ;-)
You took a lot of basic concepts that so often intersect, and made them much easier to understand. The familiar question of "Where do I start?" when walking into a room will not be so overwhelming if I follow the list of simple steps you provided. Now I just need a nice Manhattan background! ;-)
வீடியோ மிகவும் பயனுள்ளதாக இருந்தது மிக்க நன்றி
இரா.மனோகர் சென்னை .
Very useful This video sir, , big thank you sir R.MANOHAR ,Chennai.India
Very nice tutorial Neil, simple explanation, well illustrated. Also, beautiful model, so natural an so charming...
Straight shooter, right to the point …Thanks.
Thanks Neil ..just what I needed
Thank you for the timely video.
Thank you so much for your tutorial and for going to the trouble of digging out the archives 🙏🏼
I learnt ‘old school’ with manual method and not so much with TTL and appreciated you sharing that simple click-down method on speedlight to reduce power. Previously I would have just worked out two and a bit stops in my head (I was counting out loud when you posed the question 😂).
Great to see your interaction and behind-the-scenes with your models and to see your setups on your UA-cam and Insta - - Regards from Downunder 👍🏼 🇦🇺
Thank you for the very helpful video. Just want to ask, what is the best metering mode for this kind of scenario? Thank you
I keep my metering mode to Evaluative / Matrix metering. But in the end it doesn't matter as much if you shoot in Manual Exposure mode, and meter for and expose for your subject. For that, Manual Exposure mode is the best way to control your exposure.
Great video here ! Thanks for sharing
Thank you for the tutorial. Very helpful. Personally, I think the background citiscape could be a bit overexposed, just a bit more to lighten it up. I think it would show the back light and background without distracting from the model.
Beautiful model
This tutorial started off great but once he got to setting flash manually he made it much harder than it has to be. You don't need a meter. Determine the exposure for the background and then dial in manually flash power until you get the desired exposure.
How would you determine the flash exposure with any accuracy when you are using a softbox or umbrella?
Great as usual!
I'm new to speed lights and thank you for the video..very instructive, but I have a question about using speed lights in the studio without any ambient light. If I try to take a shot using the off camera speed light without turning on an over head light the camera doesn't recognize any light and the shutter won't take the shot. Is there a setting in camera that I need to adjust so I don't need any ambient light in the studio?
First step -- what are your camera settings? And at those settings, which the flash switched off, do you even see any part of your subject? If your settings are carefully chosen, the ambient light most likely won't even register.
@@neilvn I'm shooting for low-key lighting, so the camera settings are set to block out all ambient light.
@@AlexandriaGeorgiades-p5v-- if your flashes are powerful enough, and your setting are such that the ambient light doesn't register much, then there is no need to have blackout conditions in your (home) studio. For example, in my studio, typical camera / flash settings for headshots are: 1/200 @ f/8 @ 100 ISO ... and at these settings the fluorescent lights in the studio don't even register. If I take a photo without the flash firing, the resulting image is nearly completely black. So I usually just keep the house lights one. We can see easily and the camera has no problem focusing.
So just confirm and tell us what your camera settings are ... and if at those settings, the ambient light registers.
@@neilvn 1/250 @f.2.8 @100 ISO
@@AlexandriaGeorgiades-p5v -- is is possible to get a smaller aperture to control the ambient light better while the lights are switched on?
Verry verry helpfull ! thank you sir. your behind name is dutch ) greetings from holland .
Yup, I am originally from South Africa -- hence the Dutch last name
@@neilvn ah okey greetings )
Thanks Neil 👍
Hi Neil!! Thanks a lot for the video!! The only thing I would like to ask is fstop calculation 9-4 = 7 ? How do I count correctly ?
Simply count the 1/3rd stop clicks as you change your aperture from f/4 to f/9
Fstop : 1 -->1.4 -->2 -->2.8 -->4-->5.6 -->8 -->11 ....
From 4 to 8 : 2 full stops = 2 x 3 1/3 stops = 6 1/3 stops
8 to 9 : 1/3 stop
Total : 7 1/3stops
awesome
Thank you!
What an amazing model..sighs
Extraordinary Shot's
Why doesn't a light meter just measure in thirds? Wouldn't that be simpler and more efficient?
are you serious... i watch the whole video and when he gets the "perfect" shot, balancing ambient and flash, he didn't show us?!?!?!
You are entirely correct. I messed up on that point. Hopefully though, the rest of the tutorial made enough sense that you'd be able to create magic on your own.
@@neilvn yes, your video is very helpful. And I apologize if I came off as too harsh. My apologies
@@neilvn yes I would’ve liked to see those.
Okay, you all guilted me into digging through my files from 10 years ago, and I found the images.
I somehow neglected to add a final image to the video, and UA-cam doesn't allow me to replace a video. So I therefore added the final image in this linked blog post:
neilvn.com/tangents/off-camera-flash-tutorial-balancing-flash-with-ambient-light/
nice tuto. looking the burnt background on the video, we don't imagine F/4 iso 400. what was the speed ? 1/250sec to darken background as much as possible while avoiding HSS ?
but why 400 iso for background which adds noise and increase shutter speed (would be 1/60sec at 100iso too slow for shooting handheld ?) for background and the exposure with flash later? what would happen at 100 iso ?
The decision here again was to have a shutter speed that is hand-holdable. I don't want to risk camera shake or subject movement. There isn't all that much noticeable noise at 400 ISO with modern cameras. It should be an easily accessible ISO setting.
@@neilvn Wouldn´t the flash freeze motion independent of shutter speeds?
@@linusfotograf -- not necessarily. It depends on a few factors, including how bright the existing light is ... which influences you shutter speed.
Here's more on the topic:
neilvn.com/tangents/flash-freeze-movement-at-slow-shutter-speeds/
@@neilvn Thanks. I will shoot a portrait on saturday where I want to get some light bulbs to show up. They will be the only ambient. I will use studio strobes as my main light. The subject will stand still. I should be sble to get the bulbs to be bright and have my subject frozen, right?
@@linusfotograf -- yup, with no movement, you should be good at slow shutter speeds. A stabilized lens, or a tripod will definitely help.
Cannot hear audio
The audio was unfortunately added at a low volume. UA-cam won't allow me to replace the video.
💛💙❤️💓
Shooting
In RAW will definitely allow you change your white balance….but, shooting it in camera will still give you best exposure.
I know you are Master flash photographer, but this explanation is too complicated. I prefer Slanted Lens with JP Morgan. He explains much clearer.
Link?
The last shots were not shown after going to manual flash.
I somehow neglected to add a final image to the video, and UA-cam doesn't allow me to replace a video. So I therefore added the final image in this linked blog post:
neilvn.com/tangents/off-camera-flash-tutorial-balancing-flash-with-ambient-light/
2020 and people are still using PW's?
As it clearly mentions in the description:
This video tutorial is one in a series that originally appeared on the Click website in 2012, but licensing has now reverted back to me, and here we are - a tutorial that might be dated in terms of some of the gear used, but the principles remain the same.
Thank you for the very helpful video. Just want to ask, what is the best metering mode for this kind of scenario? Thank you
I keep my metering mode to Evaluative / Matrix metering. But in the end it doesn't matter as much if you shoot in Manual Exposure mode, and meter for and expose for your subject. For that, Manual Exposure mode is the best way to control your exposure.
@@neilvnthank you Neil..