I don't think I've ever seen this tie rod removal technique, I simply whack the mating surface area around the tapered tie rod end, the knuckle, and the shock pops the tie rod free. The same is true with the ball joints.
I changed it, drove it for probably 100 miles and it’s leaking again. 🤦🏼♂️ It was flush too when I installed it. Have you seen that happen? (Leaking after recently changing) I did not use the gasket seal/permatex like you did. Maybe I should’ve.
Nice, your HMMWV came with CTIS spindles? It must be a newer variant. I bought and installed CTIS spindles on my M998. All 4 would deflate no issues but when inflating 1 spindle seal leaks air into the the hub itself then continue to pressurize transfer case which then bubbles up out my transmission dipstick. Man I've taken this 1 hub apart multiple times to try to replace the seal but havent figured out a way to remove that old seal to replace with new. I am really struggling to get that done. I wish you made a video replacing that seal because the way you make your videos is very easy to follow.
I just finished replacing the CTIS seal and it was in TIGHT. So tight that i couldn't simply pry it out. I ended up carefully drilling into the seal (don't drill to far) then used a screw to pry it up. Hope this helps.
@@Drop-Kick-69 Good to know I wasn’t just being too soft on the seal. I was mainly concerned about damaging the steering arm cover. I guess it actually require some serious persuasion. I will try that next time I have a whole weekend off work. Thx for sharing.
Your doing a big service to the community in sharing your experience. I thank you for giving back
Thank you for making this video! Just finished my first portal seal replacement while watching this 👍
Thanks! I will be doing mine shortly, this helps a lot!
Thanks for putting out this very helpful video!
Appreciate your stuff too!
Great video, thank you for putting this out!!
I don't think I've ever seen this tie rod removal technique, I simply whack the mating surface area around the tapered tie rod end, the knuckle, and the shock pops the tie rod free. The same is true with the ball joints.
I’m currently changing the outboard seal on my hub. The leak was dripping onto the inner wheel assembly, and down the inner sidewall of the tire.
@@Jus10-born2Run goodluck! Have fun with your Humvee.
I changed it, drove it for probably 100 miles and it’s leaking again. 🤦🏼♂️
It was flush too when I installed it. Have you seen that happen? (Leaking after recently changing)
I did not use the gasket seal/permatex like you did. Maybe I should’ve.
Nice, your HMMWV came with CTIS spindles? It must be a newer variant. I bought and installed CTIS spindles on my M998. All 4 would deflate no issues but when inflating 1 spindle seal leaks air into the the hub itself then continue to pressurize transfer case which then bubbles up out my transmission dipstick. Man I've taken this 1 hub apart multiple times to try to replace the seal but havent figured out a way to remove that old seal to replace with new. I am really struggling to get that done. I wish you made a video replacing that seal because the way you make your videos is very easy to follow.
I just finished replacing the CTIS seal and it was in TIGHT. So tight that i couldn't simply pry it out. I ended up carefully drilling into the seal (don't drill to far) then used a screw to pry it up. Hope this helps.
@@Drop-Kick-69 Good to know I wasn’t just being too soft on the seal. I was mainly concerned about damaging the steering arm cover. I guess it actually require some serious persuasion. I will try that next time I have a whole weekend off work. Thx for sharing.
Outstanding video!
Have you got part number of those hub seals or maybe dimensions etc...
Thx Rob
Thanks for the info
Thank you
That seal is in completely backwards!!!!! No one has seen that?? The green one! Completely wrong!
Why take off the half shaft? It’s easier to remove the hub and refurb it on a bench.