I have a 2016 v6 mustang and I switched to the powerstop extreme street warrior package Part No. K6808-26 on mine and I absolutely love them. Be sure to do a proper pad bedding and break in on all brakes and rotors installed. But for a easy and a noticeable upgrade replacement by far powerstop is the way to go. You are also wrong about the uneven pad wear. Uneven pad wear is due to the caliper pins sticking. Pull the caliper pins out and clean them up with a rag and apply new grease. I put a little in the rubber bushing and work it in and out until the pin pushes out on it’s own. Easily.
About to put these bad boys in my 08 Taco. Can’t believe the front rotors and pads only cost $168. Great value for these quality parts. Thanks for the great review. I feel more confident driving with these on for years to come.
I put these on my 2011 dodge charger r/t great brakes so far no noise and the car stops on a dime the hotter I make the brakes the better they work but I appreciate the reviews I'm also from southern Illinois and I think we live in the same town lol!
Most Synthetic grease slowly destroys the bellows. My synthetic grease says only metal to metal contact. I switched to sil-glade silicone compound. It’s for seals.
I know this is an old comment but uneven wear on only the piston side is likely air in the caliper and not a stuck pin. A stuck pin causes both the inner and outer pad to wear unevenly and since this was only the inner with the outer being further worn but even it was not a pin issue.
thank you sir i think you just made up my mind for the price and the long term wear they seem really good 50k miles is awesome and the fact the rotors are still good these seem really good
That’s crazy!!!! my 2018 Ram 2500 had 19k miles all OEM grocery getter… 36k miles on it the first 2 years… right now my break pads are metal on metal and I’m trying to find good breaks and rotors!
Yeah I just recently heard about power stop brakes last year so I put the drill n slotted and better pads on the front. Now the back. Unfortunately I wasn't able to buy front and back at the same time so I will have different results. Thanks for the video
I heard those Powerstop pads suck and people decide to use other brands when installing the rotors. I’ve put some Akebono brake pads on my car and works like a charm! The hype is real with those Akebono now I just hope they last as long as people claim.
hello you have a caliper slider issue pads should not be tapered wearing and the fact that one wheel is dustier than the other means the right wheel is not doing its job take both calipers of the pins and look for corrosion clean and use brake grease on teh pins ensure the boots are sitting well a lot of people complain about break dust but it is a visual indicator when you see one wheel dirtier than the other that there is a problem bleeding your brakes will not resolve this issue. i check my calipers every tire change before winter they should move freely on both sliders , just my 60 year old 2 cents
I did a pad slap at 60k on my 2014 GMC Sierra. My driver's rear caliber was sticking, so I replaced both rear calipers. I still had half the brake pads remaining on the others brakes and I tow a 26ft rv all over the East Coast. I do a lot of engine braking/ coasting.
Great review. Pads sound like they work pretty well. Really I find to get significantly better pads, you probably have to move to a semi-metalic pad which means more brake dust and rotor wear, but you have better stopping power and they maintain a good coefficient of friction at higher temperatures. I would like to try these though and see if they're a happy medium between OE and a semi-metalic pad. I don't see any point to drilled brakes with modern brake pads though. That's just looks/gimmicks to me. Just less metal for a heat sink. Take a look at Formula 1 rotors...no drilling. The biggest upgrade is better pads. For rotors, adding brake ducts for cooling or going with something like a 2 piece with curved vanes, etc., is the only thing I think really helps in that department. Certainly you want "decent" quality rotors.
F1 car carbon ceramic insane tech, unlimited budgets, with insane venting and aero moving at 150-190mph... F150 brakes with basic materials at a reasonable price. Weird comparison.
Tell us you have Absolutely No clue about the subject that you are trying to sound really smart about, without just coming out and saying you don't have a clue about the braking systems on the various vehicles. You are trying to compare two completely different systems and materials and applications.
I put a set of these on my 1998 Chevy workhorse a couple of years ago and it's a night and day difference from stock OEM, no noise, low dust, they've never showed any signs of brake fade even when going down long, steep hills with a loaded bed and 16 ft flatbed trailer without trailer brakes, and they have a whole lot more bite than stock.
@@bubbaj308 nice so I shouldn't have any trouble towing a 14ft single axle trailer in a 98 k1500 with the 5.7l. Upgraded to 3/4 ton rear leaf springs and powerstop rotors and break pads??
I have EBC orange tow brake pads and pros: they stop like my brembos cons: the squeak every brake press and the dust is insane. I had powerstop on my challenger and loved them I'm going to order a set for my truck now thanks to this review
Thank you for the informative review. I'm trying to decide between this setup, and the EBC stage 2 slotted set up. I drive a 2017 Honda Ridgeline, I've towed 3 different boats with it, a utility trailer loaded with various motorcycles, and a little John Deere tractor. Loaded it with dirt, rocks, mulch, and furniture, and driven through the mountains of Virginia, with various loads sometimes too. The front brakes still have a lot of pad, but the rotors are toast. Warped to hell. Looks like this setup performed very well for you, and It's about 2/3 the cost of the EBC set up. If you had it to do over again, would you still buy the powerstops, or opt for the EBC's? How are the powerstop rotors now? Still smooth? Thank you.
@@lbj808 thanks for the reply. My 13 f150 needs rotors so I was looking for some feedback from somebody with the same heavy pre aluminum body models. Im still on stock wheels but ill be ordering some 20x12s on 33s so glad to know they still stop good with bigger wheels 👍
I realize this video was 3yrs ago... BUT, curious is you took off the rotors to examine wear on the backside? Like you, I 'used' my brakes and they gave me a good 40k life, and earned it. The backside of the front rotors were cooked. (likely due to me not tending to the slides and shims as I should have) Resurfacing didn't seem like a viable option - so, replace them I will. Overall - same sentiment - great brakes, great package for the full size trucks.
good work - I'm seriously considering these - I just have to convince the employer to let me continue doing my own service on the truck vs dealer service.
If I'm doing brakes, I'm go over everything like lubing pins, changing the brake fluid and bleeding the system. If I'm just doing pads, I try to deglaze the rotors with a flap wheel on a grinder. I've even taken out grooves (shade tree turning) with the grinder, the trick for both is to spin the rotors while you hit it with the flap wheel. It's getting harder to find anyone to machine turn a rotor or drum these days with all the cheap overseas replacement parts.
I had a 2010 Chrysler Town and Country that notoriously had the too-small 16-inch wheels. Those were too small for the weight of the vehicle, and typically any kind of break pads wore out within 10-20,000 miles....plus incredible dust, screeching, and grabbing. The Powerstop Extreme Z36 rotors and pads on the front solved those problems.
I am considering putting these on my 2010 Ford Expedition. I understand all the stopping power. My question is do these rotors “warp” where you feel pulsating in the steering wheel or brake pedal ? Dealer replaced my front brakes (pads and rotors) about 11k miles ago and I am experiencing the pulsating issue. I have not towed anything and this vehicle is not driven hard.
I put almost 30k on my 01 durango with some towing and hard stopping and my Rotors look like new and my pads are between 60% and 70% left. I just want to take them apart and re grease the slider pins and put everything back. And just do pads when there's 20%-30% left. And i think the Rotors are still going to look like as good as new by that time. Hard to believe it but they provide it that their's almost no wear on the Rotors at 30k. And trust me I drive hard. Maybe I broke the pads in really good in the beginning and im getting the best out of it. That's y they are lasting me way longer than I expected. The only way im going to replace this pads is if they are completely worn or if they are starting to scoring the Rotors. Sorry for the misspelling. Z36 breaks are really really good.
Thanks for the video, toyota wants $1300 for pads and rotors up front and just pads in the back, thats not gonna happen lol! This powerstop kit is looking pretty good right now
UPDATE: I did end up going with the powerstop kit, one year later so far so good. About 16,000 miles on for work, cross country and 2 round trips to lake superior with my wife, me, 3 kids, 2 dogs, a cartop carrier and towing a boat and I am a happy customer. They are quiet and make very little dust which is a plus.
So Mitch, you tow a big trailer. Does it have trailer brakes? Also, you should feel air in the caliper pistons as a soft pedal. I'de bleed brakes and use high temperature brake lub on all moving brake contact points. Make sure it is waterproof. I just bought a set of those brakes for my tow rated Jeep WK2. I pull a boat and sometimes a trailer. I hope these pads are good or better than what was put on it last, +70k miles that is. The rotors are Bosch Quietcast. I believe the drilled and slotted rotors don't do anything but wear pads out quicker. But the main reason for not using them is the active braking system on my 4x4, it might respond differently to slotted rotors. I don't want to test that. Those Power Stop look to be a good deal.
Yes my trailer has electronic brakes which help a lot. After installing these I still was able to notice a difference in stopping with the trailer. I did have to change mine out at 50k miles but that could've been due to the drilled and slotted rotors as you mentioned. The pads themselves produce way less brake dust and I never heard a peep from them during the lifespan I had them for. I've also hauled heavy payloads in the bed and always felt confident about coming to a stop.
Interesting. I have Power Stop drilled/stotted rotors and pads that lasted about 60,000 on a minivan. The rotors are warped now and I get a lot of brake dust on the rims compared to the past.
Okay I have a 2013 F-150 with the coyote 5 L V8 in it I am just now having to replace the rear brake pads Factory at a hundred and forty thousand miles I have towed from North Carolina back to Florida a couple of times with my trailer but not many times already and I just bought this same kit for my truck so I think I can probably get more than 50,000 miles out of the pads and rotors on this new z36 kit from Power stop cuz I have the same one I just recently bought
I put a set of rotors and pads on my 16 explorer.....did the break-in...the proper way....have you/or anyone reading this......has an issue with noise that sounds lime....shhh...shhh.shhhh.shhhh....as you brake???....now, I will say I didn't change the "factory" shims/sqealers "....maybe thats the problem???....someone give me an answer???....lol....thanks
The uneven wear has nothing to do with brake bleeding. By all means when doing a brake job refresh the fluid for sure. Really surprised you hadn’t needed to replace the rears, first. The electronic brake control uses the rears way more than the fronts of the past. My rears were shot at 52k and fronts are still going strong 70k.
Did u perform any before and after stopping test? Seems like the pads last longer but is there a tremendous stopping ability? I pull a 16,000 lb 5th wheel and am after much better stopping ability. Thanks for the video
Unfortunately did not get a chance to test them before and after. But I could feel a difference when towing around our trailers and hauling materials around.
There is still pad on them like there is still "tread" in tires after the wear bar. You're supposed to replace them well before they get as far as you got. Keep trying to use every grit of pad and you will need rotors every time.
Those are past the point of replacement FYI. You're saying there's still pad but those should've been replaced about 2mm or more ago. LoL. Common misconception is that the life of the pad is until they're down to the metal. In fact the usable life is about 50% of the pad thickness from New.
I got 84K miles out of the OEM brakes with 25K of those miles towing a 7,000lbs+ Travel Trailer. We towed all over the country and up and over the rockies many, many times. You've got a heavy foot.
I have almost 200k miles on my factory pads and I tow about 14,500k all over the US for work. I do use my exhaust break at all times though. I'm just starting to hear a small squeek and thinking about replacing. I got the truck with 13k miles on it. It's a 2014 ram 2500 6.7 and has 210k now.
You never mentioned if you followed the break in procedure. Powerstop packages come with the procedure printed on the box. I live in western Canada and use the same kit on truck. They are light years better than oem and last much longer.
Yes, the break-in procedure is absolutely necessary for those brakes, absolutely. Not just a few miles of "easy driving," but the very specific procedure.
Man you must have been tough on the OEM brakes. I have a 2016 Ram 2500 6.4 with 170k mikes on it. I was hauling heavy trailers the weekend I bought it and at least once a week since I bought it. So I would say 30-40% of my miles are towing heavy gooseneck horse trailers. Most of my hauls involve trailers about 10,000Lbs coming down long steep grades as well. I replaced the fronts with the Z36 Extreme's (pads and rotors) at about 130k and I just did the backs with the Z36's pads and rotors at 160k. Huge difference in braking performance. But the Ram brakes were rock solid and did a killer job. I even had plenty of pad left on the OEM pads with very little wear in the rotors. But, I haul expensive horses and felt it was time to upgrade. I don't have to be on the brakes as long or as hard on down grades above 7% with the Z36's. Like my boss says, "Any truck can pull it, but can it stop it?"
RAM 2500 OEM brakes are really good in terms of longevity. I'm just replacing my OEM brakes at 97k miles with Z36 pads/rotors and I tow a trailer and a boat. I'm replacing pads/rotors with the Z36 but I did consider sticking with stock MOPAR.
Put these pads and rotors in and can't get much brake now, even after doing the break in procedure multiple times. Pedal just goes down and the vehicle takes way too long to gradually stop. Went back and flushed the system and it didn't help.
@@westside_t4r_216 I did multiple times as well as multiple break in procedures. After about a month of driving, they did start gripping somewhat better, but nothing amazing. I recently bought an upgraded booster and master cylinder kit and will try that next.
Double check braket bolts just to be sure. Most likely the aluminum pad clips making contact with rotors. Make sure those tabs are not touching anything
Umm. You mentioned the uneven wear. Bleeding won't help. Its prob. A sticking piston in the caliper. Put a C clamp on one piston, pump the brakes to extend the other piston. (Not too far that it blows out.) Then push that piston in with a C clamp. Do the other the same way. It should now wear evenly for a good long time. Id change the fluid too actually. Especially in that caliper.
Steven Bryant and others could be right too. Those pins get dried up & stuck/drag. Also cause uneven wear. I've had both probs. Like he said. Check everything.
I have inspected my guide pins and there are two that unfortunately got rusted. I made sure to live them all extra good and installed new rubber boots when I did the brakes 2 years ago but guess the Midwest winter and salt got to them. I tried my best to free the pins but no luck. I'll be ordering to new caliper brackets soon. Appreciate the insight!
I know this reply is 2 months late, but it does matter. They won't be able to cool the way they're supposed to. The Z26/Z23 kit I have for my 2020 Civic had stickers on the rotor hats that said what position they belong on.
@@BigRedtheGinger I took it to Brake Plus, they put it on right for me. Still a very slight vibration at high speed, but way better than b4. Almost no vibration at slow speed, seem to brake and slow down with more grip. Before I would slow down but need to apply more pressure at the end just to stop. Over all, this is the best fix for the under power stopping design flaw of the honda odyssey. Ty for ur help.
You should replace the calipers. My 2015 F350 at 60k had a front piston seize and destroyed the pads and that rotor. I bought the 8 lug version of the same powerstop z36 towing kit. Apparently the pistons are a frequent failure on 2002 and newer calipers
My 2016 F150 went through one caliper at 85k miles. It was sticking. I don’t tow anything and I never carry much weight. I have heard from many people that Ford’s OEM calipers are a common thing that needs to be replaced. I replaced my rotors and pads at 75k
I’m only 2 minutes in and already can tell you that you should’ve bought a Super Duty, not an F-150!!! You overworked the HELL out of that F-150! Also, the other commenter is correct… your uneven pad wear is from lack of lubrication of your caliper slides/pins. Brake fluid is supposed to be flushed every two years! Most people don’t know that or do it! It prevents moisture from rusting the inside of the brake system. Overall, you got great mileage out of both your OEM and Z36 brakes, considering you overworked that truck!
Can you order just the pads and run them on stock rotors? Need pads but my rotors are good, plus I’d prefer to not have the drilled rotors if possible. Thanks
@@HitchinMitch I deliver mail out of a 96. Calipers sieze at a year or sooner. I don't stand on the brakes often, but it seems I still need to find a more efficient system.
Uneven pad ware and bleeding brakes are completely unrelated. That was misleading to share to the watching public. What it is indicative of is a binding slide pin.
Yes, you use your brakes hard. remind everyone that you always have a trailer on. maybe you could setup up too super duty. 1/2 ton are not ment to tow like you tow.
Please tel me that you replaced the pads as a set and that the OEM pad is just inserted for the reference? I would like to give you the benefit of the doubt that you didn’t use one OEM pad and one Power Stop pad........I am correct right? So a simple summary would be....... Reasonable to conclude that if the P/S pads can last 50K miles with towing a trailer almost daily then someone with same vehicle and same driving habits, and conditions............ If your getting 50K miles one a set or P/S pads then someone without regular trailer towing could get more than 50K, maybe 55 or 60K I am in for the P/S pads only.... they don’t make a OEM plain face or Slotted only. Talked to P/S yesterday and was advised that in a few months they should be rolling out more color selections powder coated calipers. As of mow and for JEep Grand Cherokee at least is Red only. Four major color options are black, blue, green, yellow and possibly more. I will get the P/S pads for now and hold the Caliper swap until the black is available..
Yes, I replaced all the pads all the way around. As for someone not towing, or heavy on the throttle then yes they should see more miles out of there brakes.
I have a 2016 v6 mustang and I switched to the powerstop extreme street warrior package Part No. K6808-26 on mine and I absolutely love them. Be sure to do a proper pad bedding and break in on all brakes and rotors installed. But for a easy and a noticeable upgrade replacement by far powerstop is the way to go.
You are also wrong about the uneven pad wear. Uneven pad wear is due to the caliper pins sticking. Pull the caliper pins out and clean them up with a rag and apply new grease. I put a little in the rubber bushing and work it in and out until the pin pushes out on it’s own. Easily.
About to put these bad boys in my 08 Taco. Can’t believe the front rotors and pads only cost $168. Great value for these quality parts. Thanks for the great review. I feel more confident driving with these on for years to come.
I put these on my 2011 dodge charger r/t great brakes so far no noise and the car stops on a dime the hotter I make the brakes the better they work but I appreciate the reviews I'm also from southern Illinois and I think we live in the same town lol!
Installed z36 on f250 SD 6.2. Great review glad there working for you. Im excited about them on this truck. Thx
How are the z36 working out for you I'm curious
Stopping power is great. Easy Stopping no noise or dust. Really happy with them.
You got the uneven wear because you have a stuck (under-lubed) guide pin, not sure bleeding the brake will do anything to the uneven wear
When I replace them I'll be sure to put on some extra lube. 👍
Most Synthetic grease slowly destroys the bellows. My synthetic grease says only metal to metal contact. I switched to sil-glade silicone compound. It’s for seals.
Silicone based lube for the win.
I know this is an old comment but uneven wear on only the piston side is likely air in the caliper and not a stuck pin. A stuck pin causes both the inner and outer pad to wear unevenly and since this was only the inner with the outer being further worn but even it was not a pin issue.
Or moisture and one of the pistons is sticking
thank you sir i think you just made up my mind for the price and the long term wear they seem really good 50k miles is awesome and the fact the rotors are still good these seem really good
$635 parts and labor for power stop z 36 front and rear brake pads and rotors 2014 acura mdx... October 2021... Low dust and great stopping power.
There's a bee! The moment of subscription. Thanks for the review.
Thanks for the review HM.
That’s crazy!!!! my 2018 Ram 2500 had 19k miles all OEM grocery getter… 36k miles on it the first 2 years… right now my break pads are metal on metal and I’m trying to find good breaks and rotors!
Thanks for the review, am looking at replacing my 4Runner brakes this is valuable info!
I recommended just get from dealership, these rotor powerstop will eat up your pads like nothing
@@lilsnoop101 ok got them already, thanks for the info though will keep that in mind and keep an eye on that...
@@ThibautBreton yea I drive a Toyota Sequoia
I got here shopping for pads & rotors for my 4runner as well 😁
@@lilsnoop101😂😂😂😂
Yeah I just recently heard about power stop brakes last year so I put the drill n slotted and better pads on the front. Now the back. Unfortunately I wasn't able to buy front and back at the same time so I will have different results. Thanks for the video
You should be good
Excellent video. You just sold me.
I heard those Powerstop pads suck and people decide to use other brands when installing the rotors. I’ve put some Akebono brake pads on my car and works like a charm! The hype is real with those Akebono now I just hope they last as long as people claim.
Installed mine myself this past weekend
Thanks for a great review, I am looking for new brakes for my 08 Tundra and I am going to order a set of front and rear
Very informative video. Thanks for the real life testimonial
Just bought the rotors and brake set as well!!
hello
you have a caliper slider issue pads should not be tapered wearing and the fact that one wheel is dustier than the other means the right wheel is not doing its job
take both calipers of the pins and look for corrosion clean and use brake grease on teh pins ensure the boots are sitting well
a lot of people complain about break dust but it is a visual indicator when you see one wheel dirtier than the other that there is a problem
bleeding your brakes will not resolve this issue.
i check my calipers every tire change before winter they should move freely on both sliders ,
just my 60 year old 2 cents
I did a pad slap at 60k on my 2014 GMC Sierra. My driver's rear caliber was sticking, so I replaced both rear calipers. I still had half the brake pads remaining on the others brakes and I tow a 26ft rv all over the East Coast. I do a lot of engine braking/ coasting.
Great review. Pads sound like they work pretty well.
Really I find to get significantly better pads, you probably have to move to a semi-metalic pad which means more brake dust and rotor wear, but you have better stopping power and they maintain a good coefficient of friction at higher temperatures. I would like to try these though and see if they're a happy medium between OE and a semi-metalic pad.
I don't see any point to drilled brakes with modern brake pads though. That's just looks/gimmicks to me. Just less metal for a heat sink. Take a look at Formula 1 rotors...no drilling. The biggest upgrade is better pads. For rotors, adding brake ducts for cooling or going with something like a 2 piece with curved vanes, etc., is the only thing I think really helps in that department. Certainly you want "decent" quality rotors.
It only matters if you go through deep water. That's why you see cross-drilled on all modern motorcycles (exposed rotor) and mountain-bikes.
F1 car carbon ceramic insane tech, unlimited budgets, with insane venting and aero moving at 150-190mph... F150 brakes with basic materials at a reasonable price. Weird comparison.
Tell us you have Absolutely No clue about the subject that you are trying to sound really smart about, without just coming out and saying you don't have a clue about the braking systems on the various vehicles.
You are trying to compare two completely different systems and materials and applications.
Uneven wear and excess dust means calipers are sticking. Flushing the fluid at every brake job is recommended but unrelated to your symptoms.
He needs to lube the slide pins.
I put a set of these on my 1998 Chevy workhorse a couple of years ago and it's a night and day difference from stock OEM, no noise, low dust, they've never showed any signs of brake fade even when going down long, steep hills with a loaded bed and 16 ft flatbed trailer without trailer brakes, and they have a whole lot more bite than stock.
1500 - 5.7??
@@nickbelkin9180 K 1500 - 4.3, but same brakes as the 5.7.
@@bubbaj308 nice so I shouldn't have any trouble towing a 14ft single axle trailer in a 98 k1500 with the 5.7l. Upgraded to 3/4 ton rear leaf springs and powerstop rotors and break pads??
@@nickbelkin9180 should do it with ease. Those trucks will pull just about anything you can put behind them.
@@nickbelkin9180 how's the ride with the 2500 springs? I'm debating doing the same with mine.
Good review. Thanks
Good review. That's damn good on a truck that tows anything. Are you hard on your brakes or do you grandpa it?
I have EBC orange tow brake pads and pros: they stop like my brembos cons: the squeak every brake press and the dust is insane. I had powerstop on my challenger and loved them I'm going to order a set for my truck now thanks to this review
How does power-stop do compared to brembos stopping power? I hear there the same all ur paying for is the name
Thank you for the informative review. I'm trying to decide between this setup, and the EBC stage 2 slotted set up. I drive a 2017 Honda Ridgeline, I've towed 3 different boats with it, a utility trailer loaded with various motorcycles, and a little John Deere tractor. Loaded it with dirt, rocks, mulch, and furniture, and driven through the mountains of Virginia, with various loads sometimes too. The front brakes still have a lot of pad, but the rotors are toast. Warped to hell. Looks like this setup performed very well for you, and It's about 2/3 the cost of the EBC set up. If you had it to do over again, would you still buy the powerstops, or opt for the EBC's? How are the powerstop rotors now? Still smooth? Thank you.
Ebc sucks ass.. I had stage 3 and the rotors cracked.. pads weren’t terrible tho and crazy amount of brake dust
I ordered a set for my 2012 F-150...thanks for the vid!!..🤙🏽
How'd you like em?
Awesome stopping power...I had 33x12.50 on 22x12 rims and had no problem stopping quickly...🤙🏽
@@lbj808 thanks for the reply. My 13 f150 needs rotors so I was looking for some feedback from somebody with the same heavy pre aluminum body models. Im still on stock wheels but ill be ordering some 20x12s on 33s so glad to know they still stop good with bigger wheels 👍
Great review
I just installed them on my 2022 Denali 1500. Absolutely way better then factory already
I realize this video was 3yrs ago... BUT, curious is you took off the rotors to examine wear on the backside? Like you, I 'used' my brakes and they gave me a good 40k life, and earned it. The backside of the front rotors were cooked. (likely due to me not tending to the slides and shims as I should have) Resurfacing didn't seem like a viable option - so, replace them I will.
Overall - same sentiment - great brakes, great package for the full size trucks.
The front z36 pads on my sequoia lasted 75k miles. The rears pads are more like 35k.
good work - I'm seriously considering these - I just have to convince the employer to let me continue doing my own service on the truck vs dealer service.
If I'm doing brakes, I'm go over everything like lubing pins, changing the brake fluid and bleeding the system. If I'm just doing pads, I try to deglaze the rotors with a flap wheel on a grinder. I've even taken out grooves (shade tree turning) with the grinder, the trick for both is to spin the rotors while you hit it with the flap wheel. It's getting harder to find anyone to machine turn a rotor or drum these days with all the cheap overseas replacement parts.
I had a 2010 Chrysler Town and Country that notoriously had the too-small 16-inch wheels. Those were too small for the weight of the vehicle, and typically any kind of break pads wore out within 10-20,000 miles....plus incredible dust, screeching, and grabbing. The Powerstop Extreme Z36 rotors and pads on the front solved those problems.
I am considering putting these on my 2010 Ford Expedition. I understand all the stopping power. My question is do these rotors “warp” where you feel pulsating in the steering wheel or brake pedal ? Dealer replaced my front brakes (pads and rotors) about 11k miles ago and I am experiencing the pulsating issue. I have not towed anything and this vehicle is not driven hard.
I put almost 30k on my 01 durango with some towing and hard stopping and my Rotors look like new and my pads are between 60% and 70% left. I just want to take them apart and re grease the slider pins and put everything back. And just do pads when there's 20%-30% left. And i think the Rotors are still going to look like as good as new by that time. Hard to believe it but they provide it that their's almost no wear on the Rotors at 30k. And trust me I drive hard. Maybe I broke the pads in really good in the beginning and im getting the best out of it. That's y they are lasting me way longer than I expected. The only way im going to replace this pads is if they are completely worn or if they are starting to scoring the Rotors. Sorry for the misspelling. Z36 breaks are really really good.
I don't tow or haul. Do you feel these will be ok? 2013 F-150 Ecoboost
Thanks for the video
Thanks for the video, toyota wants $1300 for pads and rotors up front and just pads in the back, thats not gonna happen lol! This powerstop kit is looking pretty good right now
Sounds like your dealer is trying to rip you off. Toyota OEM is ~$600 for all pads and rotors fromt and rear.
update?
Does that include labour? Make sure you’re comparing apples to apples.
@@SuzukiKid400 yes that price was parts and labor. I went with the powerstop extreme towing package and am happy with it
UPDATE: I did end up going with the powerstop kit, one year later so far so good. About 16,000 miles on for work, cross country and 2 round trips to lake superior with my wife, me, 3 kids, 2 dogs, a cartop carrier and towing a boat and I am a happy customer. They are quiet and make very little dust which is a plus.
Thanks for the review.
So Mitch, you tow a big trailer. Does it have trailer brakes? Also, you should feel air in the caliper pistons as a soft pedal. I'de bleed brakes and use high temperature brake lub on all moving brake contact points. Make sure it is waterproof. I just bought a set of those brakes for my tow rated Jeep WK2. I pull a boat and sometimes a trailer. I hope these pads are good or better than what was put on it last, +70k miles that is. The rotors are Bosch Quietcast. I believe the drilled and slotted rotors don't do anything but wear pads out quicker. But the main reason for not using them is the active braking system on my 4x4, it might respond differently to slotted rotors. I don't want to test that. Those Power Stop look to be a good deal.
Yes my trailer has electronic brakes which help a lot. After installing these I still was able to notice a difference in stopping with the trailer. I did have to change mine out at 50k miles but that could've been due to the drilled and slotted rotors as you mentioned. The pads themselves produce way less brake dust and I never heard a peep from them during the lifespan I had them for. I've also hauled heavy payloads in the bed and always felt confident about coming to a stop.
Did you have a noise coming from your brakes ? It sound like the slots from the rotor hitting the pads
Did your rotors make that ticking (sounds like crickets) sound when breaking?
Interesting. I have Power Stop drilled/stotted rotors and pads that lasted about 60,000 on a minivan. The rotors are warped now and I get a lot of brake dust on the rims compared to the past.
What minivan did you put them on? I’m thinking about putting them on my Pacifica.
@@SuzukiKid400 Mazda5
Okay I have a 2013 F-150 with the coyote 5 L V8 in it I am just now having to replace the rear brake pads Factory at a hundred and forty thousand miles I have towed from North Carolina back to Florida a couple of times with my trailer but not many times already and I just bought this same kit for my truck so I think I can probably get more than 50,000 miles out of the pads and rotors on this new z36 kit from Power stop cuz I have the same one I just recently bought
I put a set of rotors and pads on my 16 explorer.....did the break-in...the proper way....have you/or anyone reading this......has an issue with noise that sounds lime....shhh...shhh.shhhh.shhhh....as you brake???....now, I will say I didn't change the "factory" shims/sqealers "....maybe thats the problem???....someone give me an answer???....lol....thanks
I got 100000 on my oem and still going!
I have an SUV, but I don’t tow anything, should the Z36 or Z23?
My 14 f150 eats brakes
Same towing situation
Just started doing it my self
Nice review. You bought a Home Depot truck. Subscribed
Did your brakes rust or buildup in the slits or wholes….seen “videos” claiming that it happens
Tell me you’re from the Midwest without telling me you’re from the Midwest lol. Nice shirt and video.
😁😂 Appreciate the support
Mine didn't even last 12k miles so now I just ordered these
The uneven wear has nothing to do with brake bleeding. By all means when doing a brake job refresh the fluid for sure. Really surprised you hadn’t needed to replace the rears, first. The electronic brake control uses the rears way more than the fronts of the past. My rears were shot at 52k and fronts are still going strong 70k.
True dat. He just needs to lube his guide pins.
What diameter are the rotors and how many pistons ?
I have an f350 7.3 should I buy these brakes
Did u perform any before and after stopping test? Seems like the pads last longer but is there a tremendous stopping ability? I pull a 16,000 lb 5th wheel and am after much better stopping ability. Thanks for the video
Unfortunately did not get a chance to test them before and after. But I could feel a difference when towing around our trailers and hauling materials around.
@@HitchinMitch I pulled the trigger and ordered a complete set earlier today. Jegs was the cheapest I found. Thanks
@@rvchipster did you notice a difference in stopping power while fully loaded?
@@Petey1112 Definitely better. I'm happy I upgraded.
Are those slots in the wrong direction?
Have you taken your harbor freight jackstands in for the recall?
I have not, I've owned them since 2015. Probably should soon though.
Damn Alex!! Good looking out there!! I have the same ones. You may have saved some serious injuries. Thank you. Tk
There is still pad on them like there is still "tread" in tires after the wear bar.
You're supposed to replace them well before they get as far as you got.
Keep trying to use every grit of pad and you will need rotors every time.
That was bothering me also. My rule is replace the pads when they are the same thickness as the backing plate.
Didn't know that year F150 had such a big payload.
Change the rotors too
Those are past the point of replacement FYI. You're saying there's still pad but those should've been replaced about 2mm or more ago. LoL. Common misconception is that the life of the pad is until they're down to the metal. In fact the usable life is about 50% of the pad thickness from New.
Just installed these earlier on n the Jeep
Do you have a sound coming from your brakes ? Almost sound like the slots skimming on the pads.
I got 84K miles out of the OEM brakes with 25K of those miles towing a 7,000lbs+ Travel Trailer. We towed all over the country and up and over the rockies many, many times. You've got a heavy foot.
My grandpa has 180k on his factory pads and he tows a 15,000 lb fifth wheel camper and a gooseneck cattle trailer
I have almost 200k miles on my factory pads and I tow about 14,500k all over the US for work. I do use my exhaust break at all times though. I'm just starting to hear a small squeek and thinking about replacing. I got the truck with 13k miles on it. It's a 2014 ram 2500 6.7 and has 210k now.
These squeek at all?
My 14 have 46,6xx miles on it haha.
You never mentioned if you followed the break in procedure. Powerstop packages come with the procedure printed on the box. I live in western Canada and use the same kit on truck. They are light years better than oem and last much longer.
Yes, the break-in procedure is absolutely necessary for those brakes, absolutely. Not just a few miles of "easy driving," but the very specific procedure.
Man you must have been tough on the OEM brakes. I have a 2016 Ram 2500 6.4 with 170k mikes on it. I was hauling heavy trailers the weekend I bought it and at least once a week since I bought it. So I would say 30-40% of my miles are towing heavy gooseneck horse trailers. Most of my hauls involve trailers about 10,000Lbs coming down long steep grades as well. I replaced the fronts with the Z36 Extreme's (pads and rotors) at about 130k and I just did the backs with the Z36's pads and rotors at 160k. Huge difference in braking performance. But the Ram brakes were rock solid and did a killer job. I even had plenty of pad left on the OEM pads with very little wear in the rotors. But, I haul expensive horses and felt it was time to upgrade. I don't have to be on the brakes as long or as hard on down grades above 7% with the Z36's. Like my boss says, "Any truck can pull it, but can it stop it?"
RAM 2500 OEM brakes are really good in terms of longevity. I'm just replacing my OEM brakes at 97k miles with Z36 pads/rotors and I tow a trailer and a boat. I'm replacing pads/rotors with the Z36 but I did consider sticking with stock MOPAR.
Put these pads and rotors in and can't get much brake now, even after doing the break in procedure multiple times. Pedal just goes down and the vehicle takes way too long to gradually stop. Went back and flushed the system and it didn't help.
Try bleeding the system again?
@@westside_t4r_216 I did multiple times as well as multiple break in procedures. After about a month of driving, they did start gripping somewhat better, but nothing amazing. I recently bought an upgraded booster and master cylinder kit and will try that next.
The issue is at 9:46...when he said he painted his rotors...🙄
dude u didnt mention the type of brakes ceramic, semi metallic.. smh
45k it's normal if you spend close to $500 on brakes rotors and pads
Are these good to put on my Tacoma if I don’t tow anything?
If u have to ask please don't change them yourself
do you get the clicking noise when braking with these kits?
No, I don't get any clicking from mine.
Double check braket bolts just to be sure. Most likely the aluminum pad clips making contact with rotors. Make sure those tabs are not touching anything
I haul cars with a take 3. ....do u thing pad are good for me??
F250 I drive
Wouldn't the uneven wear from opposite side brake pads be related to the slider pins needing cleaning and grease?
Umm. You mentioned the uneven wear. Bleeding won't help. Its prob. A sticking piston in the caliper. Put a C clamp on one piston, pump the brakes to extend the other piston. (Not too far that it blows out.) Then push that piston in with a C clamp. Do the other the same way. It should now wear evenly for a good long time. Id change the fluid too actually. Especially in that caliper.
That sounds likrly to me as the guides not lubed. Towing, check it all!
Steven Bryant and others could be right too. Those pins get dried up & stuck/drag. Also cause uneven wear. I've had both probs. Like he said. Check everything.
I have inspected my guide pins and there are two that unfortunately got rusted. I made sure to live them all extra good and installed new rubber boots when I did the brakes 2 years ago but guess the Midwest winter and salt got to them. I tried my best to free the pins but no luck. I'll be ordering to new caliper brackets soon. Appreciate the insight!
Damn. You were all over the place
You don’t bleed the brakes for uneven, wearing by the way.
your brakes only lasted 50k miles. not good bro. My super duty has 105k miles on the factory brakes. still in great shape.
does it matter which way the slots/holes goes?
I know this reply is 2 months late, but it does matter. They won't be able to cool the way they're supposed to. The Z26/Z23 kit I have for my 2020 Civic had stickers on the rotor hats that said what position they belong on.
@@BigRedtheGinger I took it to Brake Plus, they put it on right for me. Still a very slight vibration at high speed, but way better than b4. Almost no vibration at slow speed, seem to brake and slow down with more grip. Before I would slow down but need to apply more pressure at the end just to stop. Over all, this is the best fix for the under power stopping design flaw of the honda odyssey. Ty for ur help.
Looks like the rotors are on the wrong side
Wow, you are absolutely right!!! Good call
In 50k miles, did the rotors warp ?
Rotors lasted almost 100k before having issues
No warping issue what so ever ?
Got less than 20k out of mine
Bro the original brakes on the f150 are garbage. Ask around
Sounds like a F150 garbage all garbage, Especially with the Triton 5.4.
the front suspension its a copy from toyota
You should replace the calipers. My 2015 F350 at 60k had a front piston seize and destroyed the pads and that rotor. I bought the 8 lug version of the same powerstop z36 towing kit.
Apparently the pistons are a frequent failure on 2002 and newer calipers
My 2016 F150 went through one caliper at 85k miles. It was sticking. I don’t tow anything and I never carry much weight. I have heard from many people that Ford’s OEM calipers are a common thing that needs to be replaced. I replaced my rotors and pads at 75k
they suck.......warped in one year and made a lot of noise on my F150
I’m only 2 minutes in and already can tell you that you should’ve bought a Super Duty, not an F-150!!! You overworked the HELL out of that F-150!
Also, the other commenter is correct… your uneven pad wear is from lack of lubrication of your caliper slides/pins. Brake fluid is supposed to be flushed every two years! Most people don’t know that or do it! It prevents moisture from rusting the inside of the brake system.
Overall, you got great mileage out of both your OEM and Z36 brakes, considering you overworked that truck!
Do these pads have a break In procedure?
Replace the hoses and caliper since it’s wearing un evenly
It could be as simple as the slide pins need to be lubricated
Can you order just the pads and run them on stock rotors? Need pads but my rotors are good, plus I’d prefer to not have the drilled rotors if possible. Thanks
Still oem calipers?
Yep!
@@HitchinMitch I deliver mail out of a 96. Calipers sieze at a year or sooner. I don't stand on the brakes often, but it seems I still need to find a more efficient system.
My z36 rotors were destroyed after 3 yrs . Never towed . Shocking how bad the rotors were . Not money well spent that’s for sure
Uneven pad ware and bleeding brakes are completely unrelated. That was misleading to share to the watching public. What it is indicative of is a binding slide pin.
Yes, you use your brakes hard. remind everyone that you always have a trailer on. maybe you could setup up too super duty. 1/2 ton are not ment to tow like you tow.
Please tel me that you replaced the pads as a set and that the OEM pad is just inserted for the reference? I would like to give you the benefit of the doubt that you didn’t use one OEM pad and one Power Stop pad........I am correct right?
So a simple summary would be.......
Reasonable to conclude that if the P/S pads can last 50K miles with towing a trailer almost daily then someone with same vehicle and same driving habits, and conditions............
If your getting 50K miles one a set or P/S pads then someone without regular trailer towing could get more than 50K, maybe 55 or 60K
I am in for the P/S pads only.... they don’t make a OEM plain face or Slotted only. Talked to P/S yesterday and was advised that in a few months they should be rolling out more color selections powder coated calipers. As of mow and for JEep Grand Cherokee at least is Red only. Four major color options are black, blue, green, yellow and possibly more. I will get the P/S pads for now and hold the Caliper swap until the black is available..
Yes, I replaced all the pads all the way around.
As for someone not towing, or heavy on the throttle then yes they should see more miles out of there brakes.
That caliper paint job is horrible....no wonder the pads are sticking...