Thanks a ton for taking the time to add your video. I've been putting this project off for months thinking it was going to be a major headache UNTIL I ran across your video... It took less than 30 minutes to correct it - thanks again!
Thanks a ton for the video! My '86 Caprice Classic had a VERY loose column and I was stressing about getting into it. This was all it took! Feels new again.
this video was helpful, esp if you have a 69-late 70s GM car with tilt and a floor mounted dimmer. Most of the other videos on the subject cover the later style with the column dimmer and it is more complex. If you have a floor dimmer, like in this video, it makes the job much easier. Because of this video, I was able to tighten the 2 lower bolts on the tilt column in my 1972 Pontiac GTO fairly fast. The whole job took less than a half hour. So, thank you for making this video and posting it. SB
❤ I just wanna let you know that I just did this to my 74 step-by-step like you did, And I am a happy man. Thank you for the video it was the easiest one to follow... Now I'm tight and right.. Thanks again.
Great job. You gave me a lot of confidence to do this job. You did not make this more complicated for your own satisfaction, you showed how underwhelming completing this repair can be. Thank you.
You mentioned that you rerouted the fuel line .I did something a little different than that on my 1970 Pontiac Firebird .I had an old oil cooler for a 76 Harley Davidson Sportster which measured 3X5 roughly and had cooling fins that was laying around not being used for anything because the bike was long gone . I noticed that the inlet and outlet were 3/8 in diameter .So I decided to see if cooling the fuel would make any difference . I routed the fuel line along the firewall since it was via electric fuel pump and then down to where it would catch air from the fan then made sure it had minimal contact with any heat source aside from the warm air from the fan . To my surprise it did make a difference . The reason I did this was I was having vapor lock issues especially in the summertime . Not one issue after I did this. Later on I also changed out my thermostat during the summer to a 160 degrees thermostat . In addition I also opted for the larger three core radiator instead of the lousy smaller two core it came with stock . Large engines need to breath and stay a little cooler especially during the summer months . Mine was the originally a Pontiac 350 block that I swapped out for a freshly rebuilt 400 with an Edelbrock performance package and changed out the Turbo 350 for the tougher 400 with a deep aluminum pan with cooling fins and an RV shift kit . It was originally the Firebird Esprit without full working guages etc but had tilt steering wheel and a couple of options better than the base model but not a formula .When I found it ,it was a basket case left to rot out in a farmers field infested with rats and hornets nests . I spent a couple of days working on it and got it to start and drove it off fortunately.From there I had a donor Camaro for spare parts and restored it as best I could .It had a 70s Corvette style fiberglass L88 hood scoop that was poorly installed with rivets and an old crappy Holly carb,points ignition ,old wires and in general not taken care of at all . I picked it up for $500 cash and invested another couple thousand dollars into it over the years replacing everything I could think of . I installed full working instrumentation such as marine grade guages which are far superior to some of the garbage being sold for automotive guages aside from better brands like VDO which were way more expensive than what I got and mine looked really nice and were very reliable . Also upgraded the entire electrical system and ignition system as well . I ended up selling it to my brother for way less than what I should have. He had problems with it but it was a simple fix .It had a collapsed lifter .Not a big deal at all . He ended up trading it for a damn computer and a desk behind my back instead of giving me the chance to buy it back or fix the problems for him . I was sick to my stomach over this and still get pissed when I think about it now . I put so much blood sweat and tears into that car . I wish that there was a way to track it down and offer to buy it back . Trying to find another one for a project car has been a lost cause . People are asking ridiculous prices for them now . Recently I saw a 73 Camaro that was beat up, dented badly, had most the interior torn up and some idiot cut a big hole in the top for a lousy installed sunroof that leaked badly and they wanted over 3k for this basket case . It's become a rich mans game now and a status symbol . I've met some of these guys who've bought a classic muscle car and they didn't even know how to work on one . Blasphemy I tell you !! Anyway cool video and very helpful 👍👏
@@JohnVH-diy When I modified the column assy to fit my roadster I had a terrible time with the little retaining ring. I have ordered the Steering Wheel Lock Plate Tool. I only need to buy some replacement ball bearings as most of them have fallen out.
🙏you are a life saver! just bought my first ever truck to fix up for my first car and it had the steering play. Cant believe it is this easy to fix this issue. Btw if u wanna know what truck I got I bought a 1992 Ford F-250XLT 5.7L single cab and I got it for $500 with less than 100k miles and I’m only 15.
Thanks great step by step, hope that's the fix. Feels like my screws may have fallen out completely, and im worried about putting that ring lock back on.
Wow, that is lucky for you, you didn't have to strip down the whole shaft and you only had One Bolt to tighten? Lucky. Good Video Thanks for sharing. Geeze that's a nice looking car you got all fixed up there....
My bearings actually have a nylon housing and the nylon has worn out, so the bearings won't stay in any longer, yes I need to tighten those bolts but sometimes you've got to replace the bearings like in my situation. Makes no sense to do a job halfway, all four bolts should be tightened and loctite put on them, there's a good chance he had to revisit this if he still owns his car!
If you have cruise control, you will probably have to grind a flat place on your 12 point 1/4 socket. The cruise control wire runs through the same hole on the lower left that you have to put the socket through.
FYI.... to get to all three bolts you do not need to remove the column. At around 9:30 in the video you see the next plate to remove. You unscrew the tilt handle, remove the three screws... at this point the housing with the horn wires should slide up far enough to hang them down out of the way... Do not remove the wires, just let it all hang... There is a screw holding in the key tumbler, remove it(a threaded pin) and remove the tumbler.... NOW At this point you need a special tool, about 5 bucks at Auto Zone, to remove the pivot pins, it called a PIVOT PIN REMOVAL TOOL, I know crazy huh?. This allows you to remove the plate covering the bolts.... I suggest removing the bolts ONE at a time cleaning it, add a little BLUE Loctite to it and replace until all three have been tightened.... then just reassemble. You could see when he did the test the wheel did move more than it should on top... that movement will allow the other two bolts to once again loosen and there you are again... tightening only two bolts... get the special tool and do the job once... it only adds about 15 minutes to the job....
Where did you find the horn assembly for the chevelle steering wheel you are using. I am having a hard time finding that. Do you have any recommendations as to where I can find one? Or maybe send me a link? Thanks for your video. Yours was the closest I got to understanding how the horn assembly works. I have a 1971 chevelle Malibu that I inherited. I want to install the original wheel but am missing that horn assembly
It was on the car. I was just doing maintenance and repairs for a customer. Check year one: www.yearone.com/SearchResults/1964-72-Chevelle-Monte-Carlo-El-Camino/steering%20wheel
Great and very informative video, I have a 71 Chevelle SS with tilt, luckily mine is good and tight, if it ever loosens up? I know what to do ! Thanks a bunch..
Damn just to get to the screw. Thanks for the video. gotta try it on moms Dodge Diplomat she thinks the steering wheel going to come off one day while driving lol . But will look for steering pulling thing. Use to one have one when i had my mustang 2 ghia 74 lost my tools. anyway thanks again.
This works on Mopars K car and nonAccustar tilt wheels too. You can only get to the left and bottom right bolts, but that is enough. "Borrow' the steering/lock ring puller kit from Auto Parts Inc and carefully do the removal of the wheel/lock plate/ turn signal ring, pull the key lock out easily and you can see the bolts that need the tightening. Maybe draw a picto on the way in to make the way back together easier.
It's even worse then that. I ended up shortening the spring in order to get it back on. Now the whole thing is loose and I don't have the guts to take it apart again.
@@JoDaddysGarage none at all i can grab the rod at the bottom and wiggle it i know it popped out of place the guy i got it from ahad it hot wired they didn't want to deal with it
One quick question when you do engine rebuild what type cylinder hone do you use getting ready to build a 400 Ford. It is out of a 78 Lincoln with 74,000 and it but the block is a D7TE-ABEE.
Tell me about it. I've been trying for hours, afraid to put too much presser on it, I've looked at all the videos and looks simple. It a 69' cadi deville
The flange should remain with the column if your pulling it. There should be 2 bolts at the bottom that go through a rubber piece and into the steering box.
Jo Daddy's Garage Thanks for the link. the one you showed me has a bolt on one but mine has no bolt. I was thinking maybe it's pressed on, bit I could be wrong, maybe at a dead end for now.
Jo Daddy's Garage I'm thinking maybe the tilt and none tilt had two different types of flanges or something. I noticed my tilt column has teeth on the end without the flange and an indention on the teeth for like a screw or something. And the non tilting column has a flange on the end with no screw holding it on. That's why I think it might need like a steering wheel puller type tool to pull it off but I don't know. Can't find any info on it.
Jo Daddy's Garage - ok lemme be more informative, my 08 g35 had a rough past before me and the steering column would hop multiple times while moving down. I just don't have the time to invest and open the shit up all the way just to fix that. It moves alright but just that hop makes my OCD tingle.
That's actually 4 words... Loctite would be beneficial, but I believe the entire assembly would have to come apart. The bolts wouldn't make it out of the holes. Steel tubing?
Jo Daddy's Garage it was just fine, it's easy to understand that there are 3 bolts, one on each side and one at the top. And you tighten them. I can see them on my own column. Good video.
i know an easy way to fix a loose GM tilt column...here's what you do.... you shift it in reverse...back it out of the garage and pull in a Ford...problem solved.
Thanks a ton for taking the time to add your video. I've been putting this project off for months thinking it was going to be a major headache UNTIL I ran across your video... It took less than 30 minutes to correct it - thanks again!
Thanks a ton for the video! My '86 Caprice Classic had a VERY loose column and I was stressing about getting into it. This was all it took! Feels new again.
this video was helpful, esp if you have a 69-late 70s GM car with tilt and a floor mounted dimmer. Most of the other videos on the subject cover the later style with the column dimmer and it is more complex. If you have a floor dimmer, like in this video, it makes the job much easier. Because of this video, I was able to tighten the 2 lower bolts on the tilt column in my 1972 Pontiac GTO fairly fast. The whole job took less than a half hour. So, thank you for making this video and posting it. SB
❤ I just wanna let you know that I just did this to my 74 step-by-step like you did, And I am a happy man. Thank you for the video it was the easiest one to follow... Now I'm tight and right.. Thanks again.
You saved me! Forgot how that plastic cover over the steering lock was oriented and your video showed it. Thank you so much!!!
Great job. You gave me a lot of confidence to do this job. You did not make this more complicated for your own satisfaction, you showed how underwhelming completing this repair can be. Thank you.
Thanks for showing the fix on the tilt column, now I won't have to pass one up if it is in good shape other than being loose.
Thanks for the video, just picked up a tilt column for my 70 Pontiac and was investigating how to tune it up. Looks like an easy fix!
You mentioned that you rerouted the fuel line .I did something a little different than that on my 1970 Pontiac Firebird .I had an old oil cooler for a 76 Harley Davidson Sportster which measured 3X5 roughly and had cooling fins that was laying around not being used for anything because the bike was long gone . I noticed that the inlet and outlet were 3/8 in diameter .So I decided to see if cooling the fuel would make any difference . I routed the fuel line along the firewall since it was via electric fuel pump and then down to where it would catch air from the fan then made sure it had minimal contact with any heat source aside from the warm air from the fan . To my surprise it did make a difference . The reason I did this was I was having vapor lock issues especially in the summertime . Not one issue after I did this. Later on I also changed out my thermostat during the summer to a 160 degrees thermostat . In addition I also opted for the larger three core radiator instead of the lousy smaller two core it came with stock . Large engines need to breath and stay a little cooler especially during the summer months . Mine was the originally a Pontiac 350 block that I swapped out for a freshly rebuilt 400 with an Edelbrock performance package and changed out the Turbo 350 for the tougher 400 with a deep aluminum pan with cooling fins and an RV shift kit . It was originally the Firebird Esprit without full working guages etc but had tilt steering wheel and a couple of options better than the base model but not a formula .When I found it ,it was a basket case left to rot out in a farmers field infested with rats and hornets nests . I spent a couple of days working on it and got it to start and drove it off fortunately.From there I had a donor Camaro for spare parts and restored it as best I could .It had a 70s Corvette style fiberglass L88 hood scoop that was poorly installed with rivets and an old crappy Holly carb,points ignition ,old wires and in general not taken care of at all . I picked it up for $500 cash and invested another couple thousand dollars into it over the years replacing everything I could think of . I installed full working instrumentation such as marine grade guages which are far superior to some of the garbage being sold for automotive guages aside from better brands like VDO which were way more expensive than what I got and mine looked really nice and were very reliable . Also upgraded the entire electrical system and ignition system as well .
I ended up selling it to my brother for way less than what I should have. He had problems with it but it was a simple fix .It had a collapsed lifter .Not a big deal at all . He ended up trading it for a damn computer and a desk behind my back instead of giving me the chance to buy it back or fix the problems for him . I was sick to my stomach over this and still get pissed when I think about it now . I put so much blood sweat and tears into that car . I wish that there was a way to track it down and offer to buy it back . Trying to find another one for a project car has been a lost cause . People are asking ridiculous prices for them now . Recently I saw a 73 Camaro that was beat up, dented badly, had most the interior torn up and some idiot cut a big hole in the top for a lousy installed sunroof that leaked badly and they wanted over 3k for this basket case . It's become a rich mans game now and a status symbol . I've met some of these guys who've bought a classic muscle car and they didn't even know how to work on one . Blasphemy I tell you !! Anyway cool video and very helpful 👍👏
I must say, that is the longest response to one of my videos. Good read though.
If you don’t have a 12 point 1/4 inch you can use a 6 point 7 mm socket. It worked perfect for my 71 Camaro. Tightened up real nice and tight.
I've never gone past the turn signal switch, that was a great video, thanks.,
Great video...I'm currently having same loose tilt column issues with my 3rdGen Camaro...
Your videos have really helped me with my build, thank you. Remember we enjoy everything you record, see keep up the great work.
Just watched your video for the backing plate replacement there's nothing worse then having to do it twice good job .
Excellent vid. Done hundreds of these back in the 70’s and 80’s.
How much to do one more?
@@nboldrini shouldn’t cost more than $150. for a shop to do it. A steering wheel puller and hand tools is all that’s needed.
@@JohnVH-diy When I modified the column assy to fit my roadster I had a terrible time with the little retaining ring. I have ordered the Steering Wheel Lock Plate Tool. I only need to buy some replacement ball bearings as most of them have fallen out.
@@nboldrini yes Nik you’ll need that tool too. I’ve done it without it but you need an extra person to push the plate down against the spring.
Peter Carey.
Great video. makes the job look do-able (for me) . Got lost in the workshop manual, very scary to look at in diagram form. thank you.
🙏you are a life saver! just bought my first ever truck to fix up for my first car and it had the steering play. Cant believe it is this easy to fix this issue. Btw if u wanna know what truck I got I bought a 1992 Ford F-250XLT 5.7L single cab and I got it for $500 with less than 100k miles and I’m only 15.
Thanks great step by step, hope that's the fix. Feels like my screws may have fallen out completely, and im worried about putting that ring lock back on.
I've been needing to tighten up my tilt/tele column on my 75 Vette. The horn has quit too. :( Great video.
Wow, that is lucky for you, you didn't have to strip down the whole shaft and you only had One Bolt to tighten? Lucky. Good Video Thanks for sharing. Geeze that's a nice looking car you got all fixed up there....
Actually tightened 2 bolts. Only 2 you can access this way. This was a customer car.
Well, he is a lucky guy for sure. Thanks for the comments and the video.
thanks great video ..some people sold there cars because they though it was a bearing wornout.
My bearings actually have a nylon housing and the nylon has worn out, so the bearings won't stay in any longer, yes I need to tighten those bolts but sometimes you've got to replace the bearings like in my situation.
Makes no sense to do a job halfway, all four bolts should be tightened and loctite put on them, there's a good chance he had to revisit this if he still owns his car!
My '87 Suburban needs this repair for it's tilt column and I think I'll try the fuel filter bracket on my '68 Mustang.
If you have cruise control, you will probably have to grind a flat place on your 12 point 1/4 socket. The cruise control wire runs through the same hole on the lower left that you have to put the socket through.
Good fix on the fuel line and showing how to do the tilt steering wheel how much more is left to do 👍video.
I thought this was it, but I had a problem with a bent backing plate, so I have to pull the left rear apart. Axle and all....
Another informative vid. Have tilt steering the same as what you fixed, will know what to do in future if mine plays up. Thanks.
Hi. Great video. Do you know the thread size of the lock plate remover? I am in the UK and trying to get the right tool. thanks
Sorry, I don't.
You are life saver
Where have you been !
FYI.... to get to all three bolts you do not need to remove the column. At around 9:30 in the video you see the next plate to remove. You unscrew the tilt handle, remove the three screws... at this point the housing with the horn wires should slide up far enough to hang them down out of the way... Do not remove the wires, just let it all hang... There is a screw holding in the key tumbler, remove it(a threaded pin) and remove the tumbler.... NOW
At this point you need a special tool, about 5 bucks at Auto Zone, to remove the pivot pins, it called a PIVOT PIN REMOVAL TOOL, I know crazy huh?. This allows you to remove the plate covering the bolts.... I suggest removing the bolts ONE at a time cleaning it, add a little BLUE Loctite to it and replace until all three have been tightened.... then just reassemble.
You could see when he did the test the wheel did move more than it should on top... that movement will allow the other two bolts to once again loosen and there you are again... tightening only two bolts... get the special tool and do the job once... it only adds about 15 minutes to the job....
Dude. Great video man I have the same loose column on my 72 gto
Where did you find the horn assembly for the chevelle steering wheel you are using. I am having a hard time finding that. Do you have any recommendations as to where I can find one? Or maybe send me a link? Thanks for your video. Yours was the closest I got to understanding how the horn assembly works. I have a 1971 chevelle Malibu that I inherited. I want to install the original wheel but am missing that horn assembly
It was on the car. I was just doing maintenance and repairs for a customer. Check year one: www.yearone.com/SearchResults/1964-72-Chevelle-Monte-Carlo-El-Camino/steering%20wheel
Thank you. Will do.
This is a good video. Thanks now I know what to expect when I work on my column, its loose.
Thank u so much for the great video it helped me alot i had the same problem in my caprice i thought it wont be fixed thanks sir keep up the good work
what year caprice? ive got a 1983 305 4bbl. steering column is loose. all sorts of other minor problems but ill never get rid of it!
Short term fix if you don't use thread lock and almost always the top bolt is back way out. Im having the same issue with my 83 S15
Great and very informative video, I have a 71 Chevelle SS with tilt, luckily mine is good and tight, if it ever loosens up? I know what to do ! Thanks a bunch..
That was a great tutorial. Thanks. Do you happen to know if it'll be the same for an '88 Silverado?
I can't say for sure. I would assume it would be similar.
Do you think it will be hard to take them out? I want to put a some blue loctite on them just for security or will it to much work to take them out?
I never tried to take them out using this method, so I can't say.
Absolutely fantastic video, sir. I appreciate that very much
Awsome video....i have a 1982 4 door cutlass supreme v6.helpppppp what causes my sterring column to stiffen up when i tilt it up n down only ????
Hmm… has the wiring been worked on?
Will a loose steering column make truck cut off when turning ?
Hmm. I'm sure it's not helping. What make and year of truck?
Jo Daddy's Garage 1988 Chevy 1500
I'm sure it has an affect, but I don't have an answer. Sorry.
I got the same problem goin in my 84 montecarlo. Steering wheel tilt went loose as hell and if it wiggles the wrong way the engine will cut out
@@flippityfloopityflop once you tighting it up you will be fine
Damn just to get to the screw. Thanks for the video. gotta try it on moms Dodge Diplomat she thinks the steering wheel going to come off one day while driving lol . But will look for steering pulling thing. Use to one have one when i had my mustang 2 ghia 74 lost my tools. anyway thanks again.
nice job on the fuel filter bracket
Thanks!
This works on Mopars K car and nonAccustar tilt wheels too. You can only get to the left and bottom right bolts, but that is enough. "Borrow' the steering/lock ring puller kit from Auto Parts Inc and carefully do the removal of the wheel/lock plate/ turn signal ring, pull the key lock out easily and you can see the bolts that need the tightening. Maybe draw a picto on the way in to make the way back together easier.
How does it get loose to begin with? My 89 chevy celebrity was nice and tight and I've noticed its loose and getting looser.
Just breaks loose from time/use.
I need to find out how to put my 79 Oldsmobile delta 88 steering wheel back on. HELP
Thats good but if im there i would theke the bolt of and put some locktie🤷🏽♂️ thanks for the video will be doing that to my 82 c10 truck
Thanks for posting this helpful video , beautiful car
My 94 impala ss just started having this problem after having my ignition replaced. Would it be a similar process possibly?
Possibly. Can't guarantee it though. I would think the design is similar.
I've had to take that snap ring out without the compression tool a absolute pain in the ass
It's even worse then that. I ended up shortening the spring in order to get it back on. Now the whole thing is loose and I don't have the guts to take it apart again.
Awesome tutorial brother
Isa this the same as 77 Fleetwood? tilt/telescopic?
Can't say for sure.
Trying to figure out how to tighten up a tilt steering column up and downwards on a 97 Chevrolet Silverado
Can't help with that one.
Awesome, man! Tell me what's the type of screw on the main shaft? Is it a 9/16?
On this car it was a 7/8" nut.
i have a 1969 buick electra that I'm working on the rod that attached to the ignition switch is off or broken how can i repair this situation?
Good question. So turning the key shows no movement of the rod?
@@JoDaddysGarage none at all i can grab the rod at the bottom and wiggle it i know it popped out of place the guy i got it from ahad it hot wired they didn't want to deal with it
Wish I had an easy answer. You'll ave to take everything apart to fix it. Search GM ignition rod, and there are exploded views.
Thanks a lot I truly appreciate it
thanks helping a friend with this tomorrow
The factory should've used thread locking compound and then we wouldn't be having to do this, You will be doing it again having not used it too.
About how long did it take
30 Minutes.
One quick question when you do engine rebuild what type cylinder hone do you use getting ready to build a 400 Ford. It is out of a 78 Lincoln with 74,000 and it but the block is a D7TE-ABEE.
Good question, but I don't have an answer. I let the local machine shop do all the necessary machining then I take over.
I can't get the turn signal plate out is there a trick to it? What could be holding it on? I mean it is really stuck
That's odd. Just the wiring harness holds it after removing the screws and handle.
Tell me about it. I've been trying for hours, afraid to put too much presser on it, I've looked at all the videos and looks simple. It a 69' cadi deville
Hasn't changed much over the years nearly identical to my 95 deville
What size socket did you use to tighten the loose bolts?
It's in the video. 1/4"
Are they a 1/4' bolts or those goofy outside torks type? I know a 1/4" socket seems to work....
Outstanding!! Thank you very much for the video.
I need to see for 1963 cadillac series 62 with tilt please
Sorry. Nothing to offer.
Great video. Well done.
Excellent work.
Hi will that work on a 1985 K-5 Blazer ??
I believe it's the same.
That voltage regulator is next if its oem
You never tightened the 3rd bolt. Why go in this far without fixing it right?
He didnt want to disassemble more of the steering column.
Hello sir. I was wondering if you know how id take the flange off the bottom of the steering column. would I need a puller? it's from a 68 Grand prix
The flange should remain with the column if your pulling it. There should be 2 bolts at the bottom that go through a rubber piece and into the steering box.
Jo Daddy's Garage Yeah I took that off, I believe it's the rag joint or steering coupler. but there's a y shaped metal peace that looks pressed on.
Without a picture, it's hard to tell. It sounds like it may be part of the compression assembly. Some have a clamp built in, and others are welded.
Jo Daddy's Garage Thanks for the link. the one you showed me has a bolt on one but mine has no bolt. I was thinking maybe it's pressed on, bit I could be wrong, maybe at a dead end for now.
Jo Daddy's Garage I'm thinking maybe the tilt and none tilt had two different types of flanges or something. I noticed my tilt column has teeth on the end without the flange and an indention on the teeth for like a screw or something. And the non tilting column has a flange on the end with no screw holding it on. That's why I think it might need like a steering wheel puller type tool to pull it off but I don't know. Can't find any info on it.
Will it be the same for a motorised column?
Not sure on that one. Sounds like a more modern car.
Jo Daddy's Garage - ok lemme be more informative, my 08 g35 had a rough past before me and the steering column would hop multiple times while moving down. I just don't have the time to invest and open the shit up all the way just to fix that. It moves alright but just that hop makes my OCD tingle.
Sorry. This repair won't fix that.
Would this work on a 72 C10?
It should. Basically the same column.
Would this work for a 76 El Camino?
Should be the same thing.
Great info video, thanks!
Cool fuel fix
My socket fell off deep down in the column and now I can’t get it out...
Not sure what to tell you.
Thanks so much for your help! I love youtube!
will this work with a 86 camaro
Sorry, I read that as 68 Camaro. But I think it should be very similar for an 86.
the top screw at 8:40 i cant seem to get it to go back in thoughts?
The one for the turn signal switch? You may have to start with that one first, and not tighten any of them until they're all started.
great job thanks
Great Video
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Will this fix the dead zone problem too? Or just the tilt function?
Dead zone? It will take care of the tilt.
I'm talking about where I constantly need to turn the wheel side to side to keep the car straight.
No. That would be a steering box adjustment. Hard to explain, but there is a way to adjust the fitment of the gears. Or you may have bad tie rod ends,
www.google.com/search?q=steering+box+adjustment&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjri8Ss6qjTAhVDQiYKHV2fBfsQ_AUICigD&biw=1265&bih=809#imgrc=_
Well, front end was rebuilt a few months ago. Thanks for the help though.
i would have removed the bolts to add Loctite
another good video:)
grt video how you take column bearing out
Sorry, I don't have an answer for that.
Thanks Very Much👍
Good video
too bad you can't put Loctite on those bolts
Should put some yellow lock tight
That would be a wobble extension lol
2:37
good work, but two words loktite and steel tubing
That's actually 4 words... Loctite would be beneficial, but I believe the entire assembly would have to come apart. The bolts wouldn't make it out of the holes. Steel tubing?
i dont like rubber gas lines steel tube bent nice looks better
Kills the battery over night ;p
Thanks ...
merci jo pour cette video
U thank I could do the astro van the same way sir
It should be similar. No guarantees though.
The worse kind of 'mish-mash' information under a wrong 'Heading'.
Thank you for commenting. I assume you meant worst instead of worse. Not sure what you didn't like, but if you have a better video, please share it.
Sucks. Can't see a damn thing.
I did the best I could. Not sure how else I could show it.
Jo Daddy's Garage it was just fine, it's easy to understand that there are 3 bolts, one on each side and one at the top. And you tighten them. I can see them on my own column. Good video.
i know an easy way to fix a loose GM tilt column...here's what you do.... you shift it in reverse...back it out of the garage and pull in a Ford...problem solved.
Then let it fall apart on the road and wait for help. :
Ford stands for found on road dead.
And if you're not trying to fix a GM steering column then why in the hell are you here go watch a Ford video
Lol key word is "pull" because you cant drive it in lol
looks like it would be the same on my 90 chevy crew cab .. the left side of the colunm has wiper/ cruise cntrl, tilt, turn signal aswell..
Very likely.