Your Workhorse Chassis 8.1 Vortec Fuel Pump is About to Fail OEM vs Aftermarket Choose Wisely
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- Warning Your Workhorse Fuel Pump is about to fail, watch this video so you and your RV are not stranded on the side of the road do to an aftermarket fuel pump masquerading as a WorkHorse OEM fuel pump.
Note OEM Stands for "Original Equipment Manufacturer"
If you need a new fuel pump check out Brazels RV see link below.
www.ultrarvpro...
Part# W0013952
Description:
Brand New Workhorse In Tank Fuel Pump for 2004+ P32, W16, W18, W20, W22, W24, W42
Replaces
25353893
25371178
28056423
28105800
25380389
25348548
25322995
your a literal life saver with these videos, I just bought a 06 Itasca 38j please keep these vids coming cause they are irreplaceable
Stay tuned more to come
If I had watched this video before purchasing an after market pump for my Fleetwood Southwind w22 I would not have wasted the money. The aftermarket didn't last a mile. I installed it while remodeling the RV inside and two years later when I decided to test it on the street the pump was damaged. I installed an OEM one and it is working perfect. Thanks for this video.
Thank you for contributing
That emergency standby by pump setup will last longer than any of that overpriced Workhorse crap. The LS1/LT1 walbro pumps are the most reliable units out there
but if you must have the GM pump it is the EP381 which they used for all the LS motors - Not sure of the crossover to Airtex but from what i understand the Delco pumps are manufactured by airtex. Great information Kevin! I am in the midst of a 454 to 8.1 swap in an old 1986 Monitor/ HRC on the P32 chassis as we speak and your videos have been really helpful.
Just repaired my 2001 W22 8.1 liter for high fuel trims. Problems started with a right bank donut gasket leaking and audible exhaust leak. LTFT was +18 on bank 2. After repairs I noticed high fuel trim during cruise at 55 mph. Inspected the fuel system pressure 60 psi key on engine off. 52 psi at idle and pressure rises with engine load. Pump seemed ok. Inspected the fuel filter found dirty fuel passing through filter outlet. Replaced fuel filter. Fuel trims still high. Removed 8 fuel injectors and cleaned out intake screens. Looking into the inlet the screens appeared black. A couple of squirts of carb clean revealed the little screens are actually WHITE. Reassembled. Long term Fuel trims immediately dropped to plus or minus 3. Short term fuel trim went negative until ECM relearned. Now fuel trim is 3-4 long term and 0 short term.
This issue would have been hard to diagnose without finding the compromised fuel filter. I guess I'll be changing fuel filters more often.
Thanks for all the effort with your videos Kevin you're an inspiration to us all.
I have a similar story for you can you reach out to me my email is kc5210@gmail.com or call or text my cell 606-875-0125 Kevin
PS thanks for the write up I'm Sure injector cleaning is going to me more common as these 8.1 Vortecs age.
Thank you Kevin, very good information!
Hi Jerry how are you doing 😊
You are a Master on the Workhorse Chassis .. Thx.
Your to kind. Thanks for watching.
Many Thx Kevin for your information!! Getting OEM pump now to have on hand.
Scott
Give brazels your vin number so you know your getting the right one.
@@ktoutdoor yep, thx. They have it on file from many other parts I've bought there. 👍
Great video, I have to agree that is a lot of debris for the new fuel pump, pretty funny how it worked in your garage, wonder what the psi reading was.
I'm all for OEM but dog gone $500 for a fuel pump.
I know ouch but I will sleep better knowing I put in the best fuel pump . Hoping to get another 18 years out of it.
Oh my… I needed this video last year, but happy I found it today. I have an 8.1 Safari Trek that’s on its 4th fuel pump in the 2 years I’ve owned it. Tank’s cleaned and cured after the last one, and the 4th just burned up this weekend after being in it for 1500 miles. Guess where the last two came from? Wheeler Fleet. About to make a rather rude phone call this morning when they open.
Please let me know what they say call or text my cell at 606-875-0125 Kevin On you next one be sure to order from www.ultrarvproducts.com instead
Great information Kevin. My mind is made up.
Thanks for watching Colt
I have a 99 allegro m28 7.4l engine l cut the floor under the bed and dont see no signs of the fuel pump😢 too must work to drop tank 😢 only 60k miles on RV thats mess up to fail that soon😢 cant even fuel pump relay or find fuel pump fuse i think its on the left side of dog house
Hi Kevin, another great video. It would have been interesting to check the current draw on both pumps, especially when the after market pump started acting up. Keep up the great work and thank you...
Great idea I still have them so I may do that..
Another great video Kevin.
Thanks for watching William
Another great video.thanks to you .
Oh boy, another job to do on my 2004 SafariTrek w22.
At 94000 I’m on thin ice🥴. On the road now, hoping the road god is smiling on me!! Your vid’s are informative and a a good insight for being proactive.
Stay tuned more to come.
I am in the same boat 90K 2006 Winnebago 33v
@@hyama77 I'm making another video on how to lower the fuel tank by your self and change out the fuel pump
Looking forward to the tank video!!
Funny you mentioned being the the same boat.
The name we have named our RV
BOAT.( break out another thousand) 🤷♂️🥴. 🖖😎
Hello Kevin. Awesome video and info. Tell me you live in north Florida
We live in Somerset Ky but spend the winter in Kissimmee Florida
First off great videos Kevin! The one showing fuel tank removal is a huge help. Just received my replacement pump from Brazels and though it is a Delphi pump, it is stamped made in China on the Delphi box. That is very unsettling as the whole reason I went with the extra expensive pump was to avoid a likely failure down the road. Now I'm not sure what to think. Did your pump say made in China? I have a 2002 W22 so our pumps are different. Also, the electrical connector changed from square to a flatter rectangle and they give you butt splices to do the change over. Would have thought for that money you would get a straight adapter plug to avoid another likely failure point. I googled the Delphi part number on the box just to see what comes up and that same Delphi part shows up on NAPA and Autozone for much cheaper which is dissappointing to say the least. I'm all for spending extra money to do things one time, but not positive it will be the case on this one.
Give me a call or text 606-875-0125 Kevin
WOW, this is a let down, I have also noticed that the Delphi MAF sensor is now made in China.
I hear what your saying maybe weigh the old and new pump, I found almost 1 lb difference between the after market and OEM pump. Even though its made in China lets hope its made to Delphi specs. I still think you made the right choice. I noticed genuine OEM AC Delco parts that I bought lately are also made in China. Don't you just love this new global supply chain.
My pump quit at 64000 miles, 2003 8.1 cost 850.00 tow bill. I could hear the old pump running just walking around the back of the RV new one is quiet.
Thank you for contributing your post may encourage others not to procrastinate. Have a blessed day Rick
Is it normal for my new fuel pump to be louder than the old one? It’s a OEM fuel pump too !
Mine was loader at first but it sounds quieter now that it has some run time on it.
Great video.
Hello what if they are out of stock? Where to go after that?
Never ever use an aftermarket fuel pump.
Use genuine GM ac Delco / Delphi branded fuel pump with the correct workhorse part numbers
PN 25178145 Pump only
PN 25178125 Pump and fuel sender assembly
What if I or someone else can’t afford a genuine Delphi fuel pump?
Kevin did you do a really close look at the old pump vs the new one?
Yes mostly identical just a few minor differences fuel regulator looked different and the fuel lines now have some extra protection. Its been working great so far.
Can these fuel pumps be rebuilt? Like just replacing the pump itself instead of the whole sending unit?
Not that I have been able to locate, the motor is a lot heavier than most. Plus you only want to to this job once every 20 years or 80,0000 mile on a workhorse
What about ordering direct from workhorse?
I don't know if that is possible I always order from Brazels they are a Workhorse Dealer www.ultrarvproducts.com/W0013952-Fuel-Pump-Assembly-04
If your motorhome starts real good when it's cold one crank but after 50 or 60 miles you stop for a break and you crank it and you get this one crank and like one that's wants to start but you have to crank it at least 3 times could that be fuel pump
Possible you can test it very easy with this amzn.to/3ghXW7O BOSCH (FIX 7818 Fuel Pressure Tester Kit you should see 55 to 61 psi
If pressure is good a camshaft position sensor may be the problem. Give me a call if you like 606-875-0125 Kevin
Could be vapor lock too. Lots of exhaust heat on left side near fuel pipes.
@@falcorthewonderdog2758 Here is my vapor lock story ua-cam.com/video/fSPElyvqWiU/v-deo.html
never happened any more after this fix
Some of the inexpensive Auto-parts store pumps just don't last! I've had two Spectra Premium pumps fail after two years. Only 10,000 miles on one of them! Just cheap junk. I hope the Delphi pump is better.
Thanks for contributing
@@ktoutdoor The Delphi is working great. Made me realize the Spectra ones were always putting out less pressure than oem.
Where do you get pink gasoline?
I used #2 fuel oil as a test fuel I would not trust gasoline for a test like that, high chance for spark ignition. That would make for a bad day.
Thank you !!!!!!!!!
Your very welcome
I wonder how the gentleman found the right spot to cut the floor to get to the pump?
Me to.....
The fuel tank is in the exact center of the chassis with the pump directly below the bedroom door on the 38J floor plan. The floor duct for the furnace runs right there. I don’t see any way to access the pump that way. I dropped the tank when I changed out my pump.
@@jerryhoxsey6467 Sorry but i would make it a priority to find some way to make that access hatch. The duct is nothing more than thin guage sheetmetal for the outer skin of the coach ( directly above the tank) and under the wood flooring creating the gap for the ducting. Hey but if you want to get towed off the road, have to defuel several hundreds of pounds of fuel and drop the tank...
I can change mine in less than 30 minutes roadside
Want to do this to my Safari Trek, but the fresh water tank is directly on top of the fuel tank… 😢
does anyone know where the fuel filter is? 2005 c5500 8.1 gas
This video will show you where it is. ua-cam.com/video/AMwI6SF20KI/v-deo.html
Hi I have a 2003 work horse Chassis what fuel pump I need the part #
Get your vin number then go here to confirm its correct www.ultrarvproducts.com/25178125-Module-Assembly-Fuel-Tank-Fuel-Pump-(with-seal)-(includes-sender-unit)
Ok I watch your videos Thank you Kevin
These in tank gm pumps are all crap, anyone driving a Chevy truck can tell you that. Using the fuel to cool the pump motor, classic fail.
I'm a little surprised that you haven't upgraded to traditional inline pump setup. The price of the workhorse pump would seem to make switching over a no brainer. Plus there is 25 years of video on how to do it.
Yeah that's not a good idea.
All fuel pumps are cooled by the fuel flow. Keeping your tank above 1/2 keeps the pump submerged in fuel to keep it cool. Early pump failure is almost guaranteed if you drive with less than 1/2 tank repeatedly.