Yes, yes it was. As I explained in the captions - subtitles, it was an experiment to push the limits of a cheap tree. Though it was a week between styling and potting. No the tree did start to push new buds, especially the smaller trunk, but they withered and the tree followed in the first heatwave. I've included this in the update video I did 6 7 weeks ago. Cheers Jason!
Great video! I’ve noticed my mugos do better in the hot summer months with morning sun and afternoon shade especially after I’ve done root work on them. I’m in zone 6B in the US. I’d love to see updates on this tree.
Thank you Don! Your experience sounds great! My garden is on a relatively steep slope, looking east, so that's how the plants are getting sunlight. Morning full sun, until about noon when the shade cloth takes over. I will be updating this tree as all my projects. Cheers!
Thank you for the time you spent forming the apex. This is one area that I have problems with, and most of the bonsai videos don't spend much time on how the apex is formed.
Your welcome! I hope it is somehow clear what I did. You know, it's not that easy to capture on video a detailed process of how the top branch is manipulated to become something that will form the future apex. Perhaps in a studio with several camera, but for common creators is kinda difficult because it is a 3d placement and doesn't show well on 2d. Cheers Bob!
Brilliant, as always! As someone else mentioned it's very interesting to see the apex formation. Something that is rarely focused on in tutorial videos. Also interesting to see pure perlite on a pine. I have not seen this previously. Very interesting. Thank you!
Thank you for the wonderful words! I hope the apex forming is portrayed adequately since it's quite difficult to capture a 3d setting on a 2d video. Not pure perlite! It's 50% zeolite, 50% perlite with just a bit organic added, forest soil (with a lot of beneficial microorganisms) not more than 5%. Cheers!
Very lovely work! I think it will be okay, just have to keep it somewhere a bit warmer than usual for this time of year. Maybe even bring it inside and pull it out of dormancy early.
Exactly my thoughts! Since it is too warm for the season in Greece, I still keep it in a greenhouse, not freezing and high humidity. But when the tempratures drop well below zero, I will take it in the inside greenhouse where I graft and break the dormancy early. Glad we had the same line of thought! Cheers!
Wouah vidéo très inspirante, cependant je ne me sens pas assez expérimenté pour vous imiter, je crois que je vais travailler par étapes, j'ai peur de provoquer un trop grand stress et je ne voudrais pas perdre mon arbre. Félicitations, c'est toujours un immense plaisir d'admirer vos vidéos.
Thank you Christophe! Wise decision! I am pushing the limits to gain experience on how to approach next trees. Plus I can provide frost protection, high humidity environment, root activators, micorrhyzae additives and thus have higher chances of success. But definatly my advice is for these techniques to be applied in stages, giving time for the tree to recover! Cheers!
When you say lower, do you mean the second trunk? The one starting just above the nebari? If that is what you mean, I plan to keep it a second trunk. It has nice movement. If you mean the one going to the back, I'm not engaged to it. It might have to go.
Thank you Alex! Unfortunately the tree did not make it. Although it started elongating its buds, especially in the secondary trunk, it stopped and then changed color to brown. I went too far.... Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai Αχχχ κρίμα, κι έδειχνε τόσο ωραίο! Κι εγώ (με τη εμπειρία μόλις ενός χρόνου στα μπονσάι) έχω σκοτώσει ήδη μερικά πεύκα! Μαθήματα 🤷🏻♂️
Thank you! And you would have been absolutely right since I've lost the tree during July! But still as I explain in the subtitles, it was a cheap tree, I wanted to push the limits and see if I can get away with it! Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai yes we need to experiment. Ah it was lost, that was my concern. It would have developed into a lovely tree if it did survive as the foundation was there. All the best to you 🙏💚
Thank you! I've already did an update video, a month ago and I invlude this tree in that. No, unfortunately it did not survive. It pushed new growth, especially on the smaller trunk, but the candles withered and the tree followed. Which something that happened a lot around the northern hemisphere this season, especially with Japanese white pines. I ve read a lot of instances with Jwp withering their new growth in May - June. Anyway, without the repotting it would have probably survived. I pushed it too hard. Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai Unfortunately, I assumed that the tree would not survive. I am sure that if you first transplanted, and then cut off the crown after half a year, then there would be more chances for the tree.
WOW! Beautiful work and a very timely video. I’m planning a Mugo for this spring and your video is both informative and inspirational. This mugo had an attractive natural structure. I’m curious if this was standard nursery material or a pre bonsai. Thanks, keep growing
Thank you very much! This was a standard nursery material nothing to do with bonsai. Trees like that exist, if you search in nurseries. Keep in mind that what I did is not 100% safe for the tree. I pushed it hard. Root work and styling should be spaced months apart to be safe. Good luck on your mugo!
@@ArkefthosBonsai ,, haha. Yes, I’ve pushed mine in the past and that’s why I don’t have one now (morto 😁) I’m thinking of taking it easier this time as you suggest. Thanks
I've already uploaded an update video that included this tree. It pushed new candles that started dying. Layer, in the first heatwave the tree started to yellowing. The small trunk stayed green a bit longer, but in late July it all died. Did jot appreciate the extended work done to it! Cheers!
Καλησπέρα φίλε μου με λένε Γιάννη είμαι από Χαλκιδα... Συγχαρητήρια πρώτα από όλα για την δουλειά που κάνεις στο κανάλι σου ... Και πραγματικά η δουλειά σου δεν έχει να ζηλέψει κανέναν στο εξωτερικό.... Θα ήθελα την γνώμη σου ποτε να κανω μεταφύτευση σε δυο μπονσαι μαυρη πευκη και έναν κέδρο ιμαλαιων που εχω ..... σε ευχαριστώ!!!!!!!!
Σε ευχαριστώ πολύ Γιάννη για τα υπέροχα λόγια σου! Πες μου σε πια περιοχή είσαι περίπου (να δω το κλίμα), ηλικία και μέγεθος των δέντρων περίπου, πόσα χρόνια έχουν περάσει από τη τελευταία μεταφύτευση και τέλος, σε τι υπόστρωμα βρίσκονται τώρα και τι σκέφτεσαι να βάλεις. Ναι, όλα αυτά χρειάζονται για να σου απαντήσω με ασφάλεια για τα δέντρα σου!
@@ArkefthosBonsai Είμαι απο την Χαλκιδα Τα δενδρα μου είναι κεδροι ιμαλαιων μικροί σχετικά σε ηλικία που θέλω να τα κάνω forest group.. Επίσης 2 black pine από φυτωρια ειναι σε κατάσταση prebonsai και έχουν περάσει 3 χρονια από την πρώτη φορά που τα ξεκίνησα...
Ωραία. Κοίτα, πέρσι είχα ξεκινήσει μεταφυτευσεις πεύκων από πολύ αρχές Ιανουαρίου. Φέτος όμως ουσιαστικά δεν είχαμε χειμώνα μέχρι να ξεκινήσει αυτή η κακοκαιρία, οπότε ακόμα δεν έχω ξεκινήσει μεταφυτευσεις. Θέλω να εχουν μερικές εβδομάδες νάρκη πριν ξεκινήσω. Για να κάνεις όμως από νωρίς δουλειά στις ρίζες, πρέπει να μπορείς να προσφέρεις τέλειες συνθήκες μετά, προστασία από τον παγετό και από τον άνεμο. Αν ξεκινήσω από Ιανουάριο, τα δέντρα θα μείνουν μέσα στο θερμοκήπιο τις κρύες μέρες ή θα μπαίνουν το βράδυ και θα βγαίνουν το πρωί τις ζεστές μέρες. Αν δεν έχεις ανάλογη κατάσταση καλά θα είναι να περιμένεις αρχές Μαρτίου όπου στη Χαλκίδα θα φύγει ο κίνδυνος παγετου και θα τα προστατεύεις μόνο από τον αέρα. Τα δέντρα είναι σχετικά νέα οπότε είναι πιο ανθεκτικά και μπορείς να είσαι πιο "βίαιος" με τις ρίζες. Αν κάνεις καλή δουλειά, μπορείς να τα αφήσεις και περισσότερο από 3 χρονια χωρίς μεταφύτευση. Όσων αφορά το υπόστρωμα, για τα πεύκα και τους κέδρος θα πρότεινα να μειώσεις αρκετά τη τύρφη, όχι περισσότερο από 10% και να έχεις 50% ελαφρόπετρα 40% ακανταμα (μέγιστο ποσοστό). Καλή επιτυχία!
Yes it is, you can see in the updates video that it pushed nicely in mid spring, I got normal candles, but in late June,it just stopped developing and went brown slowly, part by part.
Was this all done at one time? I have a Mugo Pine that I need to repot. But from what I've read I will want to leave pruning of the branches till a year or two later after working with the roots.
This was done a few days apart. Since these small mugo are cheap and easy to get, I pushed the tree to its limits. Now, if you have a precious pine, you should take it slower. This tree did not make it past July. It pushed new candles but it turned yellow and then brown in July. Having said that, I do have a few others that were pushed like this or even harder and they are doing great. I've done 2 videos with such operations on mugo since that tree and the trees are great and going to be featured again soon in the channel. Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai Ok, thank you for the info! I'm a beginner, so all info is nice! I got the Mugo for pretty cheap and plan to repot soon and leave the pruning for another year!
@yfz450rider39 pruning first and repotting another year is a better approach most if the times. Depends on how much foliage it has on and how much roots you cut off
You are very welcome! Though you need to know, I pushed the tree very hard as an experiment and practice. The tree tried to push new growth but u fortunately on the first Greek heatwave, it perished.
Καλημέρα είμαι ο Γιάννης από Χαλκιδα έχουμε ξαναμιλήσει πριν λίγο καιρό... Λοιπόν έχω κλείσει ένα μεγάλο mugo pine και θα ήθελα να μου πεις μπορώ ακόμη (λόγω καιρού) να του κάνω μεταφορά και την όλη διαδικασία που χρειάζεται για μπονσαι ; Ευχαριστώ...
Καλησπέρα Γιάννη! Αρχικά μη χρησιμοποιήσεις αυτό το βίντεο σαν οδηγό. Όπως γράφω στους υπότιτλους, πιέζω πολύ αυτό το δέντρο, να βρω τα όρια του και τα δικά μου. Παρόλο που τα μάτια φουσκώνουν κανονικά τώρα, δε σημαίνει ότι θα επιβιώσει το καλοκαίρι. Λοιπόν, για μέγιστη ασφάλεια θα πρότεινα αν θέλεις να κάνεις μεταφύτευση τώρα, να περιορίσεις πολύ το κλάδεμα (μόνο τα πολύ βασικά κλαδιά που δε χρειάζεσαι) και να μη περάσεις σύρματα. Αν θέλεις να κάνεις Styling, τότε μη κάνεις μεταφύτευση τώρα. Ναι, υπάρχει ακόμα χρόνος για μεταφύτευση, μη κόψεις παραπάνω από το 60% των λεπτών ριζών, χρησιμοποίησε αν όργανο υπόστρωμα, ζεολιθο, περλιτη, ελαφρόπετρα και να έχεις το δέντρο σε σκιά (2 ώρες πρωινού ηλίου και μετά φωτεινή σκιά για 2 μήνες και από Ιούνιο μόνο σκιά μέχρι τέλη Σεπτεμβρίου (πανί σκιασης 40 - 50% ή βόρειο μπαλκόνι ή κάτω από ένα μεγάλο δέντρο. Από Οκτώβριο, σιγά σιγά, θα πάρει πάλι ήλιο. Αυτά γενικά.. Καλή επιτυχία!
Thank you Marco for your comment. As I explained in the captions - subtitles, I used this tree as an exercise, to push the limits and gain experience without having to lose valuable trees. Having said that, the tree is fine, the main trunk is pushing slowly, the secondary has already broken buds and green needles are visible. Does this mean it will survive the summer? No, definatly has long way to go to feel safe that it did survive. Nevertheless, a year ago, I did a rock planting with 3 mugo pines. I did much worse to them and all in the same day. They are great, they grew, they back budded nicely and soon they will be featured again in the channel. Cheers!
For alpine pine species, I prefer sooner, in January or early February, as far as I can from summer heatwaves. Another good season for sensitive alpine species is September. Very good results. Cheers!
In both cases, that's a cut paste, a paste used on the cuts, to help heal them. It is just in a paste form and a solid for that people in bonsai usually use.
Nooooooo. Not the way to transition from nursery to pre bonsai! Mugos need stages. You bared rooted the tree and put on very draining soil bad idea ! You always need to leave at least half of nursery soil and slowly transition to more drainage soil. You also wired that tree at the same time lol you broke all the bonsai rules in one video !
Bob, mate, I'm betting you did not use the captions - subtitles like I'm suggesting on the beginning of the video, on the description of the video and on the first, pinned comment. Right? There I explain everything, how I'm using this tree to push the limits etc... Plus, probably haven't seen an older video of mine, creating a rock planting of mugos, that I made in the same day and the trees are great. Free draining soil is not the problem (actually it is much better), barerroting is not the problem, styling (7 days later, not the same time) is not that much of a problem IF you have pinned down the perfect aftercare. That's what I'm working on. Cheers Bob!
Looks good to me….even if you did break some Bob’s rules. 😂. Keep pushing the limits on those Mugos, it’s not like they are expensive material if it happen to not survive. I like what you did with the apex too.
Please enable captions - subtitles!
Is it still alive?
That’s a lot of work at once!!
Yes, yes it was. As I explained in the captions - subtitles, it was an experiment to push the limits of a cheap tree. Though it was a week between styling and potting. No the tree did start to push new buds, especially the smaller trunk, but they withered and the tree followed in the first heatwave. I've included this in the update video I did 6 7 weeks ago. Cheers Jason!
@@ArkefthosBonsai Being bold can create some dramatic results!
I like your content, you have a new subscriber here.
Thank you Jason! Good to have you here!
Absolutely stunning transformation and I look forward to seeing if it does survive. Mugo can be so difficult sometimes! Cheers, Xav
Thank you Xavier! Yes, yes it can be, but being early gives me an advantage.
Sempre un bel momento seguire i tuoi video. Attendiamo notizie future per questo lavoro. Grazie
Grazie Ivan! Definatly, progress will be monitored! Cheers!
Great video! I’ve noticed my mugos do better in the hot summer months with morning sun and afternoon shade especially after I’ve done root work on them. I’m in zone 6B in the US.
I’d love to see updates on this tree.
Thank you Don! Your experience sounds great! My garden is on a relatively steep slope, looking east, so that's how the plants are getting sunlight. Morning full sun, until about noon when the shade cloth takes over. I will be updating this tree as all my projects. Cheers!
Thank you for the time you spent forming the apex. This is one area that I have problems with, and most of the bonsai videos don't spend much time on how the apex is formed.
Your welcome! I hope it is somehow clear what I did. You know, it's not that easy to capture on video a detailed process of how the top branch is manipulated to become something that will form the future apex. Perhaps in a studio with several camera, but for common creators is kinda difficult because it is a 3d placement and doesn't show well on 2d. Cheers Bob!
Nursery mugo with such a thick and single trunk is a great find. And I admire your work with pines, so I'm not surprised by this result 👏.
Thank you Pawel! Indeed it is kinda rare, that's why I took it home. Cheers!
Yasou re hope your good and well, another beautiful tree you have just created, keep up the great work. 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you Harry! Have a great week!
Brilliant, as always! As someone else mentioned it's very interesting to see the apex formation. Something that is rarely focused on in tutorial videos. Also interesting to see pure perlite on a pine. I have not seen this previously. Very interesting. Thank you!
Thank you for the wonderful words! I hope the apex forming is portrayed adequately since it's quite difficult to capture a 3d setting on a 2d video. Not pure perlite! It's 50% zeolite, 50% perlite with just a bit organic added, forest soil (with a lot of beneficial microorganisms) not more than 5%. Cheers!
All in!
A big step for the little tree. I hope he makes it.
I like your plan for the future design.
Fingers crossed!
Ha ha ha thank you. Exactly!
Love it. What a great job. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you Taye!
Quite a dramatic transformation. It should develop into a beautiful bonsai.
Thank you Susan! Tortured it a lot, let's hope it won't hold a grudge!
What a find! Great job, thank you so much.
You are welcome, Gloria!
Very lovely work! I think it will be okay, just have to keep it somewhere a bit warmer than usual for this time of year. Maybe even bring it inside and pull it out of dormancy early.
Exactly my thoughts! Since it is too warm for the season in Greece, I still keep it in a greenhouse, not freezing and high humidity. But when the tempratures drop well below zero, I will take it in the inside greenhouse where I graft and break the dormancy early. Glad we had the same line of thought! Cheers!
Fabulous, hope to see a follow up video 🌳👍
Thank you Shane! Definatly, but whether is going to be a styling or a perished content, I don't know. I'm guess the former...
Good job my friend! I'm sure this pine will make a fantastic bonsai!👏👏👏👏🔥
Thank you Roberto! Fingers cross it makes it through the torture!
@@ArkefthosBonsai 🤞
Buen trabajo, un primer diseño interesante.
Salud.
Thank you Fabian, let's hope it survives the summer with all it has been through!
beautyfull job
Thank you Pietro!
Lovely tree
Thank you! Unfortunately this tree did not make it past July. Cheers!
Wouah vidéo très inspirante, cependant je ne me sens pas assez expérimenté pour vous imiter, je crois que je vais travailler par étapes, j'ai peur de provoquer un trop grand stress et je ne voudrais pas perdre mon arbre.
Félicitations, c'est toujours un immense plaisir d'admirer vos vidéos.
Thank you Christophe! Wise decision! I am pushing the limits to gain experience on how to approach next trees. Plus I can provide frost protection, high humidity environment, root activators, micorrhyzae additives and thus have higher chances of success. But definatly my advice is for these techniques to be applied in stages, giving time for the tree to recover! Cheers!
A very nice find! Great work!!
Thank you Chris!
@@ArkefthosBonsai what are your thoughts & plans for the lower branch? Will you be keeping it to develop, or will it be a sacrificial branch?
When you say lower, do you mean the second trunk? The one starting just above the nebari? If that is what you mean, I plan to keep it a second trunk. It has nice movement. If you mean the one going to the back, I'm not engaged to it. It might have to go.
@@ArkefthosBonsai Aha! Yes I was talking about the 1st one. Alright so it will be a twin trunk! Can't wait to see it again in the future!!
Thank you! If everything goes well, we'll see it again in October - November.
Beautiful work, it looks like a finished tree, impressive transformation. Have you done a follow up for this one? Is the tree still alive?
Thank you Alex! Unfortunately the tree did not make it. Although it started elongating its buds, especially in the secondary trunk, it stopped and then changed color to brown. I went too far.... Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai Αχχχ κρίμα, κι έδειχνε τόσο ωραίο! Κι εγώ (με τη εμπειρία μόλις ενός χρόνου στα μπονσάι) έχω σκοτώσει ήδη μερικά πεύκα! Μαθήματα 🤷🏻♂️
@alexm9148 ήταν άσκηση στο ποσό μπορώ να το σπρώξω μέσα σε λίγες μέρες. Αλλά και πάλι είναι στενάχωρο, όντως έδειχνε αρκετά ωραίο. Μαθήματα...
@@ArkefthosBonsai Ακριβώς, μαθήματα για την επόμενη φορά...
Ήταν όμως υλικό με πολύ καλές προδιαγραφές, όντας δένδρο φυτωρίου.
@alexandraprevezanou5448 ήταν καλό, αλλά έχω βρει και καλύτερα, τα οποία έχουν επιζήσει και εξελίσσονται σε πολύ όμορφα δέντρα!
Love the vid. Neat to your interpretation. What was the substrate you used? Perlite? Pumice?
Thank you Harrison! Substrate was 50%zeolite, 50%perlite with a little bit of organic soil from the forest for the beneficial microorganisms. Cheers!
Lovely tree 🙏 💚 but for me i would have potted it in a bigger pot and i wouldnt have cut so many branches off.
Thank you! And you would have been absolutely right since I've lost the tree during July! But still as I explain in the subtitles, it was a cheap tree, I wanted to push the limits and see if I can get away with it! Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai yes we need to experiment. Ah it was lost, that was my concern. It would have developed into a lovely tree if it did survive as the foundation was there.
All the best to you 🙏💚
Just out of curiosity, did the tree survive? Amazing video!
Thank you! I've already did an update video, a month ago and I invlude this tree in that. No, unfortunately it did not survive. It pushed new growth, especially on the smaller trunk, but the candles withered and the tree followed. Which something that happened a lot around the northern hemisphere this season, especially with Japanese white pines. I ve read a lot of instances with Jwp withering their new growth in May - June. Anyway, without the repotting it would have probably survived. I pushed it too hard. Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai Unfortunately, I assumed that the tree would not survive. I am sure that if you first transplanted, and then cut off the crown after half a year, then there would be more chances for the tree.
Most probably...
WOW! Beautiful work and a very timely video. I’m planning a Mugo for this spring and your video is both informative and inspirational. This mugo had an attractive natural structure. I’m curious if this was standard nursery material or a pre bonsai. Thanks, keep growing
Thank you very much! This was a standard nursery material nothing to do with bonsai. Trees like that exist, if you search in nurseries. Keep in mind that what I did is not 100% safe for the tree. I pushed it hard. Root work and styling should be spaced months apart to be safe. Good luck on your mugo!
@@ArkefthosBonsai ,, haha. Yes, I’ve pushed mine in the past and that’s why I don’t have one now (morto 😁)
I’m thinking of taking it easier this time as you suggest. Thanks
Or should I say νεκρός?
Have a nice search for what can become an interesting mugo pine then!
@@mattbrennan647 this word is quite dire and dark!
6:14 What are you brushing onto the cuts?
How did it do through the summer?
I've already uploaded an update video that included this tree. It pushed new candles that started dying. Layer, in the first heatwave the tree started to yellowing. The small trunk stayed green a bit longer, but in late July it all died. Did jot appreciate the extended work done to it! Cheers!
Καλησπέρα φίλε μου με λένε Γιάννη είμαι από Χαλκιδα... Συγχαρητήρια πρώτα από όλα για την δουλειά που κάνεις στο κανάλι σου ... Και πραγματικά η δουλειά σου δεν έχει να ζηλέψει κανέναν στο εξωτερικό.... Θα ήθελα την γνώμη σου ποτε να κανω μεταφύτευση σε δυο μπονσαι μαυρη πευκη και έναν κέδρο ιμαλαιων που εχω ..... σε ευχαριστώ!!!!!!!!
Σε ευχαριστώ πολύ Γιάννη για τα υπέροχα λόγια σου! Πες μου σε πια περιοχή είσαι περίπου (να δω το κλίμα), ηλικία και μέγεθος των δέντρων περίπου, πόσα χρόνια έχουν περάσει από τη τελευταία μεταφύτευση και τέλος, σε τι υπόστρωμα βρίσκονται τώρα και τι σκέφτεσαι να βάλεις. Ναι, όλα αυτά χρειάζονται για να σου απαντήσω με ασφάλεια για τα δέντρα σου!
@@ArkefthosBonsai
Είμαι απο την Χαλκιδα
Τα δενδρα μου είναι κεδροι ιμαλαιων μικροί σχετικά σε ηλικία που θέλω να τα κάνω forest group..
Επίσης 2 black pine από φυτωρια ειναι σε κατάσταση prebonsai και έχουν περάσει 3 χρονια από την πρώτη φορά που τα ξεκίνησα...
Σε οτι αφορά τώρα το χωμα ειναι μίξη δικη μου με τυρφη ελαφροπετρα και ακανταμα ... και σκέφτομαι να συνεχίσω τα ίδια......
Ωραία. Κοίτα, πέρσι είχα ξεκινήσει μεταφυτευσεις πεύκων από πολύ αρχές Ιανουαρίου. Φέτος όμως ουσιαστικά δεν είχαμε χειμώνα μέχρι να ξεκινήσει αυτή η κακοκαιρία, οπότε ακόμα δεν έχω ξεκινήσει μεταφυτευσεις. Θέλω να εχουν μερικές εβδομάδες νάρκη πριν ξεκινήσω. Για να κάνεις όμως από νωρίς δουλειά στις ρίζες, πρέπει να μπορείς να προσφέρεις τέλειες συνθήκες μετά, προστασία από τον παγετό και από τον άνεμο. Αν ξεκινήσω από Ιανουάριο, τα δέντρα θα μείνουν μέσα στο θερμοκήπιο τις κρύες μέρες ή θα μπαίνουν το βράδυ και θα βγαίνουν το πρωί τις ζεστές μέρες. Αν δεν έχεις ανάλογη κατάσταση καλά θα είναι να περιμένεις αρχές Μαρτίου όπου στη Χαλκίδα θα φύγει ο κίνδυνος παγετου και θα τα προστατεύεις μόνο από τον αέρα. Τα δέντρα είναι σχετικά νέα οπότε είναι πιο ανθεκτικά και μπορείς να είσαι πιο "βίαιος" με τις ρίζες. Αν κάνεις καλή δουλειά, μπορείς να τα αφήσεις και περισσότερο από 3 χρονια χωρίς μεταφύτευση. Όσων αφορά το υπόστρωμα, για τα πεύκα και τους κέδρος θα πρότεινα να μειώσεις αρκετά τη τύρφη, όχι περισσότερο από 10% και να έχεις 50% ελαφρόπετρα 40% ακανταμα (μέγιστο ποσοστό). Καλή επιτυχία!
Is this the pine that you lost some time later? That was a shame if it was as it was a lovely tree!😥
Yes it is, you can see in the updates video that it pushed nicely in mid spring, I got normal candles, but in late June,it just stopped developing and went brown slowly, part by part.
@@ArkefthosBonsai - such a shame! That would have been a magnificent tree! Have a brilliant week ahead, my friend! 👌
@JohnThurlbeck yes it would.... You too John!
Was this all done at one time? I have a Mugo Pine that I need to repot. But from what I've read I will want to leave pruning of the branches till a year or two later after working with the roots.
This was done a few days apart. Since these small mugo are cheap and easy to get, I pushed the tree to its limits. Now, if you have a precious pine, you should take it slower. This tree did not make it past July. It pushed new candles but it turned yellow and then brown in July. Having said that, I do have a few others that were pushed like this or even harder and they are doing great. I've done 2 videos with such operations on mugo since that tree and the trees are great and going to be featured again soon in the channel. Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai Ok, thank you for the info! I'm a beginner, so all info is nice! I got the Mugo for pretty cheap and plan to repot soon and leave the pruning for another year!
@yfz450rider39 pruning first and repotting another year is a better approach most if the times. Depends on how much foliage it has on and how much roots you cut off
@@ArkefthosBonsai the pot it is is cracked and not in good shape. That is the one reason I was thinking of repotting this year.
@yfz450rider39 if there is too much foliage, make sure you remove a bit. Less stress for the damaged root system.
dank u heel leerzaam
You are very welcome! Though you need to know, I pushed the tree very hard as an experiment and practice. The tree tried to push new growth but u fortunately on the first Greek heatwave, it perished.
Καλημέρα
είμαι ο Γιάννης από Χαλκιδα
έχουμε ξαναμιλήσει πριν λίγο καιρό...
Λοιπόν έχω κλείσει ένα μεγάλο mugo pine και θα ήθελα να μου πεις μπορώ ακόμη (λόγω καιρού) να του κάνω μεταφορά και την όλη διαδικασία που χρειάζεται για μπονσαι ;
Ευχαριστώ...
Καλησπέρα Γιάννη! Αρχικά μη χρησιμοποιήσεις αυτό το βίντεο σαν οδηγό. Όπως γράφω στους υπότιτλους, πιέζω πολύ αυτό το δέντρο, να βρω τα όρια του και τα δικά μου. Παρόλο που τα μάτια φουσκώνουν κανονικά τώρα, δε σημαίνει ότι θα επιβιώσει το καλοκαίρι. Λοιπόν, για μέγιστη ασφάλεια θα πρότεινα αν θέλεις να κάνεις μεταφύτευση τώρα, να περιορίσεις πολύ το κλάδεμα (μόνο τα πολύ βασικά κλαδιά που δε χρειάζεσαι) και να μη περάσεις σύρματα. Αν θέλεις να κάνεις Styling, τότε μη κάνεις μεταφύτευση τώρα. Ναι, υπάρχει ακόμα χρόνος για μεταφύτευση, μη κόψεις παραπάνω από το 60% των λεπτών ριζών, χρησιμοποίησε αν όργανο υπόστρωμα, ζεολιθο, περλιτη, ελαφρόπετρα και να έχεις το δέντρο σε σκιά (2 ώρες πρωινού ηλίου και μετά φωτεινή σκιά για 2 μήνες και από Ιούνιο μόνο σκιά μέχρι τέλη Σεπτεμβρίου (πανί σκιασης 40 - 50% ή βόρειο μπαλκόνι ή κάτω από ένα μεγάλο δέντρο. Από Οκτώβριο, σιγά σιγά, θα πάρει πάλι ήλιο. Αυτά γενικά.. Καλή επιτυχία!
bare root transplant , drastic pruning , setup with needle cleaning , I doubt a nursery mountain pine survived .
Thank you Marco for your comment. As I explained in the captions - subtitles, I used this tree as an exercise, to push the limits and gain experience without having to lose valuable trees. Having said that, the tree is fine, the main trunk is pushing slowly, the secondary has already broken buds and green needles are visible. Does this mean it will survive the summer? No, definatly has long way to go to feel safe that it did survive. Nevertheless, a year ago, I did a rock planting with 3 mugo pines. I did much worse to them and all in the same day. They are great, they grew, they back budded nicely and soon they will be featured again in the channel. Cheers!
In quale mese hai iniziato queste operazioni di rinvaso?
For alpine pine species, I prefer sooner, in January or early February, as far as I can from summer heatwaves. Another good season for sensitive alpine species is September. Very good results. Cheers!
7:15 what do you use here?
In both cases, that's a cut paste, a paste used on the cuts, to help heal them. It is just in a paste form and a solid for that people in bonsai usually use.
Nooooooo. Not the way to transition from nursery to pre bonsai! Mugos need stages. You bared rooted the tree and put on very draining soil bad idea ! You always need to leave at least half of nursery soil and slowly transition to more drainage soil. You also wired that tree at the same time lol you broke all the bonsai rules in one video !
Bob, mate, I'm betting you did not use the captions - subtitles like I'm suggesting on the beginning of the video, on the description of the video and on the first, pinned comment. Right? There I explain everything, how I'm using this tree to push the limits etc... Plus, probably haven't seen an older video of mine, creating a rock planting of mugos, that I made in the same day and the trees are great. Free draining soil is not the problem (actually it is much better), barerroting is not the problem, styling (7 days later, not the same time) is not that much of a problem IF you have pinned down the perfect aftercare. That's what I'm working on. Cheers Bob!
Looks good to me….even if you did break some Bob’s rules. 😂. Keep pushing the limits on those Mugos, it’s not like they are expensive material if it happen to not survive. I like what you did with the apex too.
Thank you mate! I'm really glad you understood the intention! Cheers!