Hi mate. Not sure if you're aware but you're getting the telegram winner scam artists posting under your name/pic! That's a sign you're doing well but they are annoying!
I can’t, for the life of me, remove the cap at the bottom where the batteries go. I’ve tried my hands, pliers on a microfiber cloth to not damage the cap and NOTHING works! It just won’t budge! This is extremely frustrating. I seriously don’t know what to do anymore.
That's some real back handed comments right there. Everything he fixes are "real world items". Every video of him tearing something down and repairing it is "useful" as someone else may have the same issues he's had. It's nice that he's got more variety in what he repairs, but you seriously need to work on your phrasing.
A very 'illuminating' video. I love that you make 'light' of the fact that there's a difference between a 'Flashlight' and 'Torch' and at the time put your most valuable subscribers in the 'spotlight'. I love watching your videos, they 'brighten up' my day and it's always good to 'shine a light' on some of the things that can stop them from functioning. It's great when your working on these things and you finally get that 'light bulb' moment and figure out the issue. You're a 'beacon' for all UA-cam fixers, a 'lighthouse', a 'guiding light' well done, keep it up Steve 🙂
Bought a 3 pack of the exact same flashlights/torches at Costco for either $5 or $10 clearance. Now I have a teardown video in case I need to take mine apart. Appreciate it.
Great fix. Glad to see you found yourself a fiberglass pen! The residue is likely dielectric grease. That stuff does wonders keeping water and corrosion out while keeping the O-rings from breaking down or drying out. Those switch are likely a Omten PBS style button. These fail lots in Milwaukee tools, usually the actuator goes dry so it doesn't pop up anymore. A couple squirts of potentiometer style contact cleaner does wonders since it has some lube in it as well.
I was thinking after the fact that reapplying dielectric grease wouldn't have been the worst idea... but didn't occur to me from the jump that the residue was probably dielectric haha. I wonder if smearing a light coat of solder over those contacts would be a good idea... might help keep them from getting corroded as quickly down the road.
@@lookitskazzy a thin layer of solder or ideally liquid tin will work well, so long as you get all the corrosion off the pads... One never knows what the corrosion is from. The flux in the solder is supposed to eat away a small layer to form the bond so it should likely eat any surface layer corrosion, but if it is deep, it will only be a cover job. Much like extinguishing a fire, you have to remove at least 2 parts of the "triangle;" air, moisture, and contamination to help stop further damage.
What a wonderful feeling it is to be able to fix something. I would tip my hat to you, sir, if I was wearing one. I wonder if I could fit myself into an envelope, perhaps you could fix me?
Bloody love your channel, not only are your videos and presenting style massively entertaining but it has also given me the confidence to actually fix some electrical devices of my own. Just goes to show learning CAN be fun! Wish you were the teacher in my Electronics class at school! i actually might have learnt something!
I just want to say thank you it's because of you that I finally got my flashlight to work I basically just had to get a Dremel to the metal parts I'm telling you I had nothing laying around for years stupid torch
I'm sure you get suggestions and home remedies like mad on here, but just wanted to throw out what I do for things like tarnished contacts (at least in situations like this one). I just use an eraser. Like a typical pencil eraser. I have had wonderful success over the years with erasers for contacts or even as a way to polish really anything copper or brass. It's my go-to first as it's typically the least destructive if just using rubbing alcohol doesn't do the trick. I'll go for something more abrasive if what I am cleaning/repairing is too far gone, but honestly unless something really went bad it will work. It's especially useful at leaving coatings more intact such as nickel plated copper. This seems like a great example where you would have likely been able to make the repair without leaving the contact surface all scratched and uneven. Hope that's useful to you.
Mine has a different problem metering the tail cap switch I get good continuity. With new batteries installed 6 volts the LED is dim when switched on? I used alligator clips to close the circuit on the barriers directly and the LED is still Dim. Not sure how to open the LED head housing to ck the circuit/solder connections.
I think the difficulty you had repairing this explains why a lot of us would just throw it away and buy another particularly if it's a low value item. Being able to buy a replacement switch unit would help.
I am not sure if I have any say in the matter, but I would totally consider buying a shirt that says "Get in!" or "Solid". Please keep up the awesome videos and I think your raps are getting better haha.
Still amuses me the reverse psychology, of the option to skip the music and shout outs, works. I still don't skip because I don't want to miss anything 🤣🤣🤣
The switches are crap on those torches. I have a "Touch Max" torch, and it would always cycle through the modes without you touching it. Condensation was 1 of the culprits, along with poor contact with the batteries. Contact cleaner and 1 or 2 washers to strengthen the battery contacts so it doesn't rattle around when you are using it helps.
Ste plz help, looked around in descriptions for it but no luck. Could you point me to that small HDMI monitor you use for testing devices on your table instead of the tv please?
Well, it's always good to have a flash of inspiration, you know, when the light bulb goes on. Lighting the way with simple yet illuminating fixes, it's good to know in these dark times, someone can brighten the day. (I tried so hard to find a place for 'photon' but I failed :( Must be the flu...)
For dirty or tarnished contact pads, such as on cartridge games, I use turtle wax rubbing compound (the one for medium to heavy scratches). It will restore such contacts to like new condition and it's much less abrasive than a fiberglass pen. One bottle will practically last forever.
The gentle fibreglass pens that work by using different substances alongside the fibreglass are really good as well. You can buy them in sets ranging from soft pens to full on fibreglass and they're well sort the money. I was skeptical when I saw them but they're practically magic.
@@lookitskazzy I'd be skeptical too if I hadn't used it for years to clean NES games and the like. It really doesn't leave scratches like a fiberglass pen does, but If you want to try it for yourself it's the one that says "clean cut rubbing compound" on the bottle. I suspect other types would also work too, as well as polishing compound as you said but perhaps with a bit more effort.
Being from the US, it always takes me a minute when someone says "torch." "Hold on, I'm going to go get my torch." Woah. Hold on. No need to get fire involved. Oh, right. Torch. Got it.
Bro, Alex from New York City here. Stumbled onto your channel. Love the rap music but with that Flash Gordon ending. I was dying laughing. I had to pull over guaranteed. You're at least my age got yourself a new sub.Keep up the good work
I'm surprised you didn't diagnose the problem : 1. shorting the batteries to close the circuit power and power the light on 2. test the switch with a multimeter (ohm meter)
Here is a problem that I can't figure out. I have two Duracell flashlights about 5 hears old and used constantly. They hold 3 C batteries. Went to Home Depot to purchase new batteries. The only ones available were there HDX batteries so I purchased them. Got home and started replacing the old batteries for the new. Installed the batteries and pressed the on button and suddenly I get a flash and then nothing. My son did the same to my other flashlight thinking it may be the new batteries are bad. He installed the new batteries on the 2nd flashlight pressed the on button and he gets a flash and then nothing. I put the old batteries in again and nothing on both flashlights. So, I can't figure it out and I've never had a problem like that before. Any advice besides throwing out the flashlights?
Hey Steve, how much would you charge me to install a new mini USB port onto a tiny circuit board? I would do it myself, but I don't have an airstation.
That's a torch, too. They used to refer to flashlights as "electric torches". Now that no one really uses flamey torches anymore (outside of political rallies, anyway) I assume that the "electric torch" just became "torch".
Stupid torch/flashlight
Hi mate. Not sure if you're aware but you're getting the telegram winner scam artists posting under your name/pic!
That's a sign you're doing well but they are annoying!
I can’t, for the life of me, remove the cap at the bottom where the batteries go. I’ve tried my hands, pliers on a microfiber cloth to not damage the cap and NOTHING works! It just won’t budge! This is extremely frustrating. I seriously don’t know what to do anymore.
Torchlight? Flashtorch?
The retro covers at the end are honestly one of my favorite parts.
You should patent that multimeter with live image monitor. Great idea!
Thank YOU for doing a standard household item! We need more fixes for real world items. A VERY useful video this time out. Thanks Again!
That's some real back handed comments right there. Everything he fixes are "real world items". Every video of him tearing something down and repairing it is "useful" as someone else may have the same issues he's had. It's nice that he's got more variety in what he repairs, but you seriously need to work on your phrasing.
@@bruwin Didn't mean to offend the lone sissy, sorry. (hopefully I phrased that correctly)
I'm curious as to why you decided to tear into the switch housing before performing a continuity check on the switch at the battery terminals.
A very 'illuminating' video. I love that you make 'light' of the fact that there's a difference between a 'Flashlight' and 'Torch' and at the time put your most valuable subscribers in the 'spotlight'. I love watching your videos, they 'brighten up' my day and it's always good to 'shine a light' on some of the things that can stop them from functioning. It's great when your working on these things and you finally get that 'light bulb' moment and figure out the issue. You're a 'beacon' for all UA-cam fixers, a 'lighthouse', a 'guiding light' well done, keep it up Steve 🙂
Good thing you fixed it, you wouldn't want people saying you're out of torch.
Bought a 3 pack of the exact same flashlights/torches at Costco for either $5 or $10 clearance. Now I have a teardown video in case I need to take mine apart. Appreciate it.
Only put rechargeable batteries in. That’s why there was alkaline in tail switch
Great fix. Glad to see you found yourself a fiberglass pen!
The residue is likely dielectric grease. That stuff does wonders keeping water and corrosion out while keeping the O-rings from breaking down or drying out.
Those switch are likely a Omten PBS style button. These fail lots in Milwaukee tools, usually the actuator goes dry so it doesn't pop up anymore. A couple squirts of potentiometer style contact cleaner does wonders since it has some lube in it as well.
I was thinking after the fact that reapplying dielectric grease wouldn't have been the worst idea... but didn't occur to me from the jump that the residue was probably dielectric haha.
I wonder if smearing a light coat of solder over those contacts would be a good idea... might help keep them from getting corroded as quickly down the road.
@@lookitskazzy a thin layer of solder or ideally liquid tin will work well, so long as you get all the corrosion off the pads... One never knows what the corrosion is from. The flux in the solder is supposed to eat away a small layer to form the bond so it should likely eat any surface layer corrosion, but if it is deep, it will only be a cover job. Much like extinguishing a fire, you have to remove at least 2 parts of the "triangle;" air, moisture, and contamination to help stop further damage.
The editing with the rap was spot on. Great job.
What a wonderful feeling it is to be able to fix something. I would tip my hat to you, sir, if I was wearing one. I wonder if I could fit myself into an envelope, perhaps you could fix me?
+1 for the Queen reference at the end
Bloody love your channel, not only are your videos and presenting style massively entertaining but it has also given me the confidence to actually fix some electrical devices of my own. Just goes to show learning CAN be fun! Wish you were the teacher in my Electronics class at school! i actually might have learnt something!
I just want to say thank you it's because of you that I finally got my flashlight to work I basically just had to get a Dremel to the metal parts I'm telling you I had nothing laying around for years stupid torch
I'm sure you get suggestions and home remedies like mad on here, but just wanted to throw out what I do for things like tarnished contacts (at least in situations like this one). I just use an eraser. Like a typical pencil eraser. I have had wonderful success over the years with erasers for contacts or even as a way to polish really anything copper or brass. It's my go-to first as it's typically the least destructive if just using rubbing alcohol doesn't do the trick. I'll go for something more abrasive if what I am cleaning/repairing is too far gone, but honestly unless something really went bad it will work. It's especially useful at leaving coatings more intact such as nickel plated copper. This seems like a great example where you would have likely been able to make the repair without leaving the contact surface all scratched and uneven. Hope that's useful to you.
Your eraser trick worked for me. Thanks
Simple and solid, Steve 👍
I've been going back through your videos, and the quality has really improved. Keep it up! 👍
If you have some blu tac you can put small parts like the switch in them to hold while soldering.
So worth watching, just for the song at the end 😂
Wait.
No beeping device test before switch disassembly?
So glad you were able to shed some light on what the problem was. Brilliant fix. lol
Mine has a different problem metering the tail cap switch I get good continuity. With new batteries installed 6 volts the LED is dim when switched on? I used alligator clips to close the circuit on the barriers directly and the LED is still Dim. Not sure how to open the LED head housing to ck the circuit/solder connections.
Finally a repair on my technical level!
Also loved the outro music, need to record that one again but less reserved and more gusto!
Great fix, solid Steve.
I think the difficulty you had repairing this explains why a lot of us would just throw it away and buy another particularly if it's a low value item. Being able to buy a replacement switch unit would help.
I'm surprised you didn't bridge the batteries to see if the LED was working!
Or continuity test the button
Nice editing! The extra camera angles and the visual countdown during the rap were appreciated.
I am not sure if I have any say in the matter, but I would totally consider buying a shirt that says "Get in!" or "Solid". Please keep up the awesome videos and I think your raps are getting better haha.
I felt enlightened thanks Steve nice save 😊
Seven words that make algorithms love You.
Nice vid. But how do you replace the led bulb
Excellent Job! Looking forward to the next one.
This look easy enough. I have a very similar "torch" so i might have a go. 😊👍🏾🙏🏾
In love with the flash cover. 😂❤
Like always, excellent fix
Great fix! Love the flow and beat on your rap 😎👍
Gotta say? wanted to here the whole your version of Flash, keep up the great content your subby form down under.
Hi you seen to have a tool for most things except it seems a clamper which i feel would help you. 😊
It’s Saturday night and I’m watching a man fix a torch, what has my life come to 😫 great video as always tho
Lol
"Tried to quit, G"
Yeah, I couldn't stay away from being included in the rap.
😂 I knew it!
OK the Flash Gordon bit was the best of all
this video is LIT! it really BRIGHTENED up my day!
Great video. A small vise to hold things in place would have made for an even better video. Also would have loved more close up shots. Thank you!
Very enlightening video... Stupid Torchlight
Still amuses me the reverse psychology, of the option to skip the music and shout outs, works. I still don't skip because I don't want to miss anything 🤣🤣🤣
Great fix. Enlightening video 🤓
Sorry for the loss... I subscribed to reduce it. 😊
9:02 Multimeter in Stevinuity
Cheers Steve 👍
Cheers Chris! 😍
The switches are crap on those torches. I have a "Touch Max" torch, and it would always cycle through the modes without you touching it. Condensation was 1 of the culprits, along with poor contact with the batteries. Contact cleaner and 1 or 2 washers to strengthen the battery contacts so it doesn't rattle around when you are using it helps.
This channel is fun and addictive! nice fix!
I love your singing 😂. Always a pleasure watching your Videos 😊 niiice....
Always nice content! Thanks
I couldn't unsee the handles of the plier. What did you wrap around them with? Electrical tape? 😳
Ste plz help, looked around in descriptions for it but no luck. Could you point me to that small HDMI monitor you use for testing devices on your table instead of the tv please?
Question. Do you know anything about rechargeable batteries and how to reset them?
Mine all seem to fail after awhile.
That was brilliant 😬
Closing theme song is spot on ;) (as always)
9:03 we’re talking no expense spared 80s bbc budget 😊
Well, it's always good to have a flash of inspiration, you know, when the light bulb goes on. Lighting the way with simple yet illuminating fixes, it's good to know in these dark times, someone can brighten the day.
(I tried so hard to find a place for 'photon' but I failed :( Must be the flu...)
🤣🤣 brilliant. You've certainly lit up my day!
Thanks it was a big help video
great video
The difference between a torch and a flashlight is:
A torch is made from al-you-men-ee-um
A flashlight is made from uh-loom-in-um
Also depends if it's in the boot or the trunk.
@@samuraidriver4x4
Good point
Read it Fleshlight and was kinda excited
Good work.
For dirty or tarnished contact pads, such as on cartridge games, I use turtle wax rubbing compound (the one for medium to heavy scratches). It will restore such contacts to like new condition and it's much less abrasive than a fiberglass pen. One bottle will practically last forever.
Even a pencil eraser or fine rubber abrasive wheels for a Dremmel.
The gentle fibreglass pens that work by using different substances alongside the fibreglass are really good as well. You can buy them in sets ranging from soft pens to full on fibreglass and they're well sort the money. I was skeptical when I saw them but they're practically magic.
I'm skeptical that rubbing compound is less abrasive than a fibreglass pen. Polishing compound? Probably.
@@lookitskazzy I'd be skeptical too if I hadn't used it for years to clean NES games and the like. It really doesn't leave scratches like a fiberglass pen does, but If you want to try it for yourself it's the one that says "clean cut rubbing compound" on the bottle. I suspect other types would also work too, as well as polishing compound as you said but perhaps with a bit more effort.
After cleaning the contact points with the fiber glass pen, why not coat the contacts with solder so that it doesn't corrode again in the future?
Being from the US, it always takes me a minute when someone says "torch." "Hold on, I'm going to go get my torch." Woah. Hold on. No need to get fire involved. Oh, right. Torch. Got it.
Bro, Alex from New York City here. Stumbled onto your channel. Love the rap music but with that Flash Gordon ending. I was dying laughing. I had to pull over guaranteed. You're at least my age got yourself a new sub.Keep up the good work
Just had my mums magnifyer fixed.. lights didnt work.. bit cleaning and voila! However the button should be changed.. dunno should I
Steve, how did this torch get so dirty? Was it the old “I fell on my torch” routine at Accident and Emergency at the hospital?
Why no solder mask on the newly exposed track?
*GET IN!*
I have found that Duracell batteries are the worst for leaking ?
I'd have put some protection over that copper path but yeah. It'll work fine.
I'm surprised you didn't diagnose the problem :
1. shorting the batteries to close the circuit power and power the light on
2. test the switch with a multimeter (ohm meter)
Torch is a stick on fire . . . And TEA GOES IN THE BAY!
How much was your multimeter in UK Sterling? Been meaning to get a new one and that looks like a good'un for electronics fixes.
That astroai dt132a is £20-30
Putting non Duracell batteries in a Duracell torch, Steve living that Thug Life 😎
I fixed a similar problem but now the problem is back, so I need to dig deeper into it....
Those switches are notorious for failing. I have a bunch of them in stock.
Maybe the instructions.... Tells you how to troubleshoot the swich cap and dissasemble it? Did you call the manufaturer support?
Misread this title at first. Please fix a Fleshlight for April fools!
Best thing for that corrosion is white vinegar - few drops and it'll literally fizz away the corrosion!
You may want to seal the button to make it waterproof now because that is what happened to cause it to oxidize! Did you use silver solder!
Hello. Top project to add a recharge sistem and lithium batery
Here is a problem that I can't figure out. I have two Duracell flashlights about 5 hears old and used constantly. They hold 3 C batteries. Went to Home Depot to purchase new batteries. The only ones available were there HDX batteries so I purchased them. Got home and started replacing the old batteries for the new. Installed the batteries and pressed the on button and suddenly I get a flash and then nothing. My son did the same to my other flashlight thinking it may be the new batteries are bad. He installed the new batteries on the 2nd flashlight pressed the on button and he gets a flash and then nothing. I put the old batteries in again and nothing on both flashlights. So, I can't figure it out and I've never had a problem like that before. Any advice besides throwing out the flashlights?
I’m American. It’s a torch, but lots of people call it a flashlight.
Then again, we measure in bananas, so there’s that…..
I have the same "torch" (?) the switch is fine. There is no continuity through the batteries. Help!
What is the name of the glue that you used to glue the switch to the board?
Just any old hot glue gun
Dat ending... LOL
Hey Steve, how much would you charge me to install a new mini USB port onto a tiny circuit board? I would do it myself, but I don't have an airstation.
I can confirm that, as a native English speaker, it is most definitely a torch.
Torch is generic term for any source of light. Flashlight was due to the 1st models having inconsistent light output.
"Moonbeam" is another commonly accepted colloquialism.
And we solder and not sodder (well, most of us).
And please stop with the ridiculous pronunciation of multimeter, really irritating
A flashing torch 🔦
Anyone find the flashing function useful? I often find it an inconvenience ie when trying to switch off.
Nice!
wow i really like the instrumental of this rap song!
What do you call a stick with a flame at the end of not a torch?
A match?
That's a torch, too. They used to refer to flashlights as "electric torches". Now that no one really uses flamey torches anymore (outside of political rallies, anyway) I assume that the "electric torch" just became "torch".
A burning stick?
the reason why it never worked is because you never use Duracell batteries STEVE lol hahahaha love the content
there are such things a soft to hard wire brushes.
Nice