I made a mistake. It actually does. I was mis-informed. If you don't use an iso, the big, vertically mounted ceramic resistor heats up and breaks apart.
When hooking up the the iso transformer does it matter which of the black wires from the chasis hook up to the iso wires? I have a midway cab and the iso wires are purple and purple with a yellow stripe.
I have built my own cab from plans on the net. I ordered a MK1 PCB and sound board. I Have wired up my Jamma harness and PSU. I have a monitor in the ranges you specified pulled from an old 25" RCA tv and ordered the chassis. The only thing I'm fuzzy about is an isolation transformer. Can you please make a step by step video on how to obtain (or make) one and install one so I don't mess up my build. That would be great. I'm pretty good with duplicating what I have seen done.
The 2 yoke sets of pins are for if the picture is upside down you then move the plug to the second set of pins that will invert the picture the correct way... also that other vertical pot you mentioned is vertical lin. This will even out the scan lines or bunch them up on one side if you adjust....
Alva Amusements also sells these chassis(es?) I think, this one looks exactly like those,but they have them listed as M825H, M828H and M829H, which one of these is the 429HR?
WeiYa chassis for 25" used to have really bad blooming issues (going from black screen to full white). Has this been fixed? It couldnt source enough current to maintain full white without dimming substantially. If this is fixed with this version, that would be great
Nice video, but you did not talk about the 2 red wires jumper on the chassis. One is for switching between Narrow and Wide mode but what for is the second one ?
Its good for a vertical monitor?. In alliexpress i see that chassis .Its not suppose to be cga chassis that video syn separated to horizontal and vertical signal.
So this monitor is still working well after several years? I'm looking at getting one of these chassis for the POS Hantarex monitor I have in my KI2. Thanks for the video.
I only used the tube for video/testing purposes. I reinstalled the original chassis shortly after this video was made. However, these universal chassis' work great for collector/average user purposes. They aren't so great when used for commercial applications where the monitor will be left on for hours and hours. If you're just going to turn on your machine, play it for a while and turn it back off, this chassis should work fine for a long time.
Please help. I ve done everything you described but in the end my image from metal slug is like watching it through a mirror. What have I done wrong???
You need to flip your yoke wires. The Red and Blue wires control the horizontal and the Yellow and Green control the vertical. Flip the Red and Blue wires to make the image flip around. Does that make sense? You can either snap the connector in half and flip the actual connections or you can swap the wires.
Turn the "screen" adjustment down on the flyback to get rid of the lines and turn up your RGB adjustments on the neck board/chassis to get more color, or the "contrast" adjustment if you have one.
Thank you so much for your help so far...Almost everything is fixed .. I did exactly what you said on the flyback ,the lines disappeared the screen was a bit blur and i fixed it by adjusting the focus on the flyback. All was functioning well until I turned the coinop off. When I turned it on again the screen was fine but shaking terribly!! How can I fix this ???? The other thing i need help with is that my chassis has the plug to demagnetise the screen but my control (like the one in your video ) does not have the switch to demagnetise ..Is there any other way ??? ( Is this why i have a shaking screen ? Because I cannot demagnetise ? ) Thanks in advance !!!
1. Two pins aren’t used. If the yoke is low impedance, and the neck board fits on the neck, you’re fine. If you’re talking about using a big neck chassis on a small neck tube - not possible. 2. This chassis is CGA only. VGA input will not work.
Hey, thanks a lot for the informative video. I have a probably foolish question about this. I just got this replacement chassis, but the power cord came without a plug. The only marking is white writing with a voltage rating on it. Could you tell me which wire is live and which is ground based off this?
Yes, but you may not be able to completely fill the image. With the higher resistance readings, you may get black bars on the sides and top/bottom and you won’t be able to stretch the image to fill the screen, but it technically will work.
@@YourMKArcadeSource Hmmm I get you! Do you have any recommendation besides that chassis? I got this tube 19 inches from a ctv combo with dvd, and it was quite hard to find it here in Estonia, so what I need is a compatible chassis to make it work.
Very nice review and was extremely helpful! I'm looking for a chassis for my Wells Gardner K7000 Monitor - Yoke# 9A2911-002. Would the Wei-Ya 825H/R Chassis work with it?
Well if you dont know what im talking abot then your not a tech in teh industry like myself nor have any knowledge on high voltage arcade monitors... im not your pal either
I made a mistake. It actually does. I was mis-informed. If you don't use an iso, the big, vertically mounted ceramic resistor heats up and breaks apart.
When hooking up the the iso transformer does it matter which of the black wires from the chasis hook up to the iso wires? I have a midway cab and the iso wires are purple and purple with a yellow stripe.
I installed one of these on a friends' tube and it's been working fine ever since. No issues to speak of.
I have built my own cab from plans on the net. I ordered a MK1 PCB and sound board. I Have wired up my Jamma harness and PSU. I have a monitor in the ranges you specified pulled from an old 25" RCA tv and ordered the chassis. The only thing I'm fuzzy about is an isolation transformer. Can you please make a step by step video on how to obtain (or make) one and install one so I don't mess up my build. That would be great. I'm pretty good with duplicating what I have seen done.
The 2 yoke sets of pins are for if the picture is upside down you then move the plug to the second set of pins that will invert the picture the correct way... also that other vertical pot you mentioned is vertical lin. This will even out the scan lines or bunch them up on one side if you adjust....
The model 429HR comes with some adjustment controls on a remote adjustment board.
You can break the yoke connector in half and turn either set around to invert the picture.
Not sure. You'd have to contact the site and ask them.
Alva Amusements also sells these chassis(es?) I think, this one looks exactly like those,but they have them listed as M825H, M828H and M829H, which one of these is the 429HR?
One gives a mirror image for cabinets where you view the monitor image bounced off of a mirror. The other displays a normal image.
WeiYa chassis for 25" used to have really bad blooming issues (going from black screen to full white). Has this been fixed? It couldnt source enough current to maintain full white without dimming substantially. If this is fixed with this version, that would be great
will this work on a regular TV tube?
thanks so much for this review. im getting 4! what an easy fix!
My monitor has 11 pin and the universal chassis has 9 pins. How can I make them compatible? Thanks.
Nice video, but you did not talk about the 2 red wires jumper on the chassis. One is for switching between Narrow and Wide mode but what for is the second one ?
Its good for a vertical monitor?.
In alliexpress i see that chassis .Its not suppose to be cga chassis that video syn separated to horizontal and vertical signal.
Great video, thank you for your time and efforts to help us
Please can you say to me whats the value for 5w resistors (square white). One is 220k and the other? Thanks a lot, Mario
where do I connect the black degausse wires on the chassis
So this monitor is still working well after several years? I'm looking at getting one of these chassis for the POS Hantarex monitor I have in my KI2. Thanks for the video.
I only used the tube for video/testing purposes. I reinstalled the original chassis shortly after this video was made. However, these universal chassis' work great for collector/average user purposes. They aren't so great when used for commercial applications where the monitor will be left on for hours and hours. If you're just going to turn on your machine, play it for a while and turn it back off, this chassis should work fine for a long time.
Onde você comprou sou do Brasil
May i use this chassis with a 21" monitor? I got exactly this chassis but i have only 21" monitors...
amigo vc sabe me dizer qual a referencia deste flyback branco deste monitor, tenho um com defeito tenho que substituir o mesmo obrigado.
Please help. I ve done everything you described but in the end my image from metal slug is like watching it through a mirror. What have I done wrong???
You need to flip your yoke wires. The Red and Blue wires control the horizontal and the Yellow and Green control the vertical. Flip the Red and Blue wires to make the image flip around. Does that make sense? You can either snap the connector in half and flip the actual connections or you can swap the wires.
Turn the "screen" adjustment down on the flyback to get rid of the lines and turn up your RGB adjustments on the neck board/chassis to get more color, or the "contrast" adjustment if you have one.
Thank you so much for your help so far...Almost everything is fixed .. I did exactly what you said on the flyback ,the lines disappeared the screen was a bit blur and i fixed it by adjusting the focus on the flyback. All was functioning well until I turned the coinop off. When I turned it on again the screen was fine but shaking terribly!! How can I fix this ???? The other thing i need help with is that my chassis has the plug to demagnetise the screen but my control (like the one in your video ) does not have the switch to demagnetise ..Is there any other way ??? ( Is this why i have a shaking screen ? Because I cannot demagnetise ? ) Thanks in advance !!!
There should be an H.Hold or V.Hold adjustment. Use those to fix the shaking screen. Let me know if that works.
YourMKArcadeSource I tried for an hour but nothing change :(
Hi there. I have 2 questions. How do you make a 9 pin chassis compatible with 11 pin tube? How do you wire to a vga input? Thank you.
1. Two pins aren’t used. If the yoke is low impedance, and the neck board fits on the neck, you’re fine. If you’re talking about using a big neck chassis on a small neck tube - not possible. 2. This chassis is CGA only. VGA input will not work.
Thank you so much. What are the different color wire for the video input?
Hey, thanks a lot for the informative video. I have a probably foolish question about this. I just got this replacement chassis, but the power cord came without a plug. The only marking is white writing with a voltage rating on it. Could you tell me which wire is live and which is ground based off this?
Does it even matter or is it switchable and it can be installed either way?
what is the voltage to set the B-+ ?
Dp you know if this chassis will work with a Panasonic Semi flat tube?
YourMKArcadeSource, I have A51ACG34X CR23 neck (orange yellow 12,2 and Blue, red 2,7), its from a crt tv, would this one work on that chassis?
Yes, but you may not be able to completely fill the image. With the higher resistance readings, you may get black bars on the sides and top/bottom and you won’t be able to stretch the image to fill the screen, but it technically will work.
@@YourMKArcadeSource Hmmm I get you! Do you have any recommendation besides that chassis? I got this tube 19 inches from a ctv combo with dvd, and it was quite hard to find it here in Estonia, so what I need is a compatible chassis to make it work.
Yes. Get this one.
www.classicgamerooms.com/arcade-parts/monitors/replacement-arcade-monitor-chassis-detail.html
I need the resistor R918 1k 5w and the capacitor C908 0.39K 400V PPN is no where I can get, any help please
Would this chassis work for a 19 inch monitor.
No. There is a separate 19” model.
Someone needs to make something like this to convert tubes to be vector monitors
Hi, do you know if it is compatible with a Hantarex polo 25 '' and where could it be bought?
Yes. Ebay.
Very nice review and was extremely helpful! I'm looking for a chassis for my Wells Gardner K7000 Monitor - Yoke# 9A2911-002. Would the Wei-Ya 825H/R Chassis work with it?
If it was a K7000 tube, Yes!
Thanks brother!
You're welcome. Make sure to use an isolation transformer.
I have some doubts wave ....... This chassis model is? ....... . Supports TVs? .... Excuse my English I'm from chile .... use a translator
This isn't compatible with MK3, per the Ebay listing.
It’s compatible with any game that’s CGA. Only determining factor is what tube/yoke you can use. The game isn’t an issue.
so what are the two yoke connections?
One will have the screen upside down
Excellent
Cool.
I cant see the value cause it burned
Don't just plug it into the wall!!
Correct. They claim is does not need an ISO but it does.
Well if you dont know what im talking abot then your not a tech in teh industry like myself nor have any knowledge on high voltage arcade monitors... im not your pal either
hello,, how can I connect a vga cable to this crt monitor?
This chassis is CGA only. You cannot run it on VGA.