Benelli Super Black Eagle 3 28 Gauge: Field Report and 600 Round Update
Вставка
- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- #Benelli
#SuperBlackEagle3
#28Gauge
Drake reviews his operational experience with the Benelli SBE 3 chambered in 28 Gauge 3" Magnum over the late summer and early Nebraska hunting seasons through September of 2022. Overall, the firearm is exceptional with minimal complaints from form and function and total reliability with all ammunition and in all conditions.
Shotgun Details:
Benelli SBE 3 - 28ga (3" Chamber - 26" Barrel)
Accessories/Modifications to date (9/28/2022):
- Briley Enhanced Bolt Handle -
- Briley Enhanced Shell Stop Assembly/Bolt Release -
Loads fired through the shotgun without issue (Approx. 635 total as of 9/28/22):
Federal - Field and Target 2-3/4" - 3/4oz - 1,300 FPS
Federal - Field Load 2-3/4" - 1oz - 1,300 FPS
Winchester - AA 2-3/4" - 3/4oz - 1,300 FPS
Fiocchi - Field Load 2-3/4" - 3/4oz - 1,300 FPS (1,410 FPS Actual)
Fiocchi - VIP Heavy - 2-3/4" - 3/4oz - 1,300 FPS
Rio - Field Load - 2-3/4" - 1oz - 1,300 FPS
BOSS - 2-3/4" - 7/8oz - 1,350 FPS - #5 Copper Plated Bismuth
BOSS - 3" - 1-1/16oz - 1,325 FPS - #4 Copper Plated Bismuth
BOSS - 3" - 1-1/16oz - 1,1325 FPS - #3/5 Copper Plated Bismuth
Music by Matt Justis (DMJ Sound): "VICTORY" (EP)
Thanks for watching!
Detailed viewer questions and private conversations, as well as industry contacts regarding product evaluations and reviews may be made at AmericanArmsChannel@gmail.com
You can also find American Arms Channel on these Social Media Platforms:
Rumble: rumble.com/use...
Bitchute - www.bitchute.c...
UGEtube - videos.utahgun...
Drake reviews his operational experience with the Benelli SBE 3 chambered in 28 Gauge 3" Magnum over the late summer and early Nebraska hunting seasons through September of 2022. Overall, the firearm is exceptional with minimal complaints from form and function and total reliability with all ammunition and in all conditions.
Shotgun Details:
Benelli SBE 3 - 28ga (3" Chamber - 26" Barrel)
Accessories/Modifications to date (9/28/2022):
- Briley Enhanced Bolt Handle -
- Briley Enhanced Shell Stop Assembly/Bolt Release -
Loads fired through the shotgun without issue (Approx. 635 total as of 9/28/22):
Federal - Field and Target 2-3/4" - 3/4oz - 1,300 FPS
Federal - Field Load 2-3/4" - 1oz - 1,300 FPS
Winchester - AA 2-3/4" - 3/4oz - 1,300 FPS
Fiocchi - Field Load 2-3/4" - 3/4oz - 1,300 FPS (1,410 FPS Actual)
Fiocchi - VIP Heavy - 2-3/4" - 3/4oz - 1,300 FPS
Rio - Field Load - 2-3/4" - 1oz - 1,300 FPS
BOSS - 2-3/4" - 7/8oz - 1,350 FPS - #5 Copper Plated Bismuth
BOSS - 3" - 1-1/16oz - 1,325 FPS - #4 Copper Plated Bismuth
BOSS - 3" - 1-1/16oz - 1,1325 FPS - #3/5 Copper Plated Bismuth
Music by Matt Justis (DMJ Sound): "VICTORY" (EP)
Thanks for watching!
Detailed viewer questions and private conversations, as well as industry contacts regarding product evaluations and reviews may be made at AmericanArmsChannel@gmail.com
You can also find American Arms Channel on these Social Media Platforms:
Rumble: rumble.com/user/AmericanArmsChannel
Bitchute - www.bitchute.com/channel/americanarmschannel/
UGEtube - videos.utahgunexchange.com/@AmericanArmsChannel
My ethos cordoba best is due in to my buddys shop tomorrow. Cant wait. Thank you for very informative vids drake.
Hey Drake, good to see you again. Anyone who has shot a 28 a lot will have stories that most folks would have a bit of scepticism when hearing them. It so out performs what it should. We shoot a lot of starlings and collard doves at a dairy. When your buddy (Denny) makes a shot and you have to whoop, you have to acknowledge scraping something out of the idoubtisphere. When you pattern those #3s try a full choke. Denny has a lead load for 3s that is 100% at 40yds. We had a friend who had a severe health issue. He called and said to come over and get all his ammo and components. We were out burning up his reloads. Revolver ammo at 50 and 100 yds. 12inch bong. Mixed loads, once you figure out the hold for each batch, it gets easy. Had a good September honker season. Those TTs on decoyed geese almost ruined a few. They never quivered. I'll let Denny know you have a 28 video out. Take care.
Great to hear from you, Doug. The 28 bore punches above its weight class, a good pattern and a well balanced load goes a long ways. Glad to hear you two beat up some resident honks! I'm sure that TT load was like the hand of God to a decoyed sky panda. You two keep those barrels hot and your powder dry!
- Drake
@@AmericanArmsChannelwhat do you mean by a “well balanced load” ?
@@nathanielchoate69 “well balanced” means ideal for the bore diameter in payload weight and shot size combined with velocity. Usually, a good load is moderate velocity (1,200 to 1,350 FPS) using a moderate to slightly on the higher side payload. In a 28, that payload is a 3/4oz to 1oz charge of lead in No.5, 6 or 7-1/2. For bismuth, it is about the same with charges ranging from No3 to No6 and 5/8 to 7/8oz.
That said, magnum loads can also be highly effective, but I typically prefer “balanced”.
Hope that helps to shed light on what is meant by that term/phrase.
@@AmericanArmsChannel thanks Drake, that makes sense. Do you prefer a “balanced load” typically just because of less recoil? And I know of some good loads that are above 1,350 fps, I guess you just meant good in the fact that they will generally pattern better
@@nathanielchoate69 lower recoil is a benefit of a balanced load, but it is more-so about being efficient in components and the quality of the patterns.
A load can be “off-balance” by pushing a payload of shot too fast or shoving too large of shot down a bore that does not generally agree with it. For a 28, for example, No. 3 is really about the largest pellet size you can efficiently use in the bore before you start to not only loose too much pattern density but start to “blow” patterns by having too large of shot and bridging or “rebound” occuring.
The gauges that suffer the most from “unbalanced” loads tend to be the 20 and 12, because they are the most common. 12’s can do a lot, but they are not 10’s. Just the same, 20’s can be extremely effective, but don’t put 16 or 12ga payloads in them and expect the best patterns and effect on game.
Now, I say that moderate velocities are the best “balanced” loads simply from a ballistic standpoint. Physics dictate that the greater the diameter of and or the greater velocity you push a sphere the exponential increase in drag it will experience. Two pellets (spheres) of the same size and same material may start at 1,300 and 1,500 FPS respectively. However, both will be traveling within 25 FPS of each other by 35 yards. So, the only appreciable difference in performance on game would be at under 30 yards. That’s fine, but at that distance the real world perceived performance difference will be negligible if not non-existent. So, why suffer the negatives of high velocity loads when they really don’t do anything more for you?
I hope that answers your question.
Was looking at buying a couple lbs of loose TSS and making some #8 or #9 loads. Would make a very nice dense patterning sub gauge
#8 and #9 TSS-18 carry quite a significant amount of pattern density, efficiency, and energy downrange. If I were to be hunting birds larger than large ducks and pheasant with it though, I would go up to a #6 or #7 pellet size for additional penetration and energy on game. Those pellet sizes would be very capable goose loads in TSS-18 at range, even in the petite 28ga hull. 1-1/8oz in a 2-3/4" or 1-3/8oz payload in a 3" hull would be a lights out load for sure.
Thanks for watching and the comments.
- Drake
I made a recipe that is #9 TSS #7 steel duplex load. Let me tell you. It's incredible. I've downed giant honkers 50-60 yards away in Wyoming with this stuff to teal. Extremely minimal shot damage. You don't need anything bigger than #9 TSS to offer pattern density for wing shooting of any kind. Make one recipe and be done with it. Dove, squirrel, ducks, geese, pheasants, crane, etc. While I wouldn't "waste" TSS on squirrel and dove, it is an exceptional load that does an amazing job at preserving the meat on the birds. This stuff doesn't push feathers into the meat and literally zero bruising and very little clotting versus #2/#4 steel. I chose #7 steel because I wanted the absolute smallest steel pellet, effective to about 30 yards. Using IC choke, the pattern is about 36" at 30 yards, with the steel outside of the TSS like a donut ring and the TSS being about 24-30" wide. At 40 yards, the steel falls off dramatically in terms of kill power and the TSS patterns out to about 32-34" inches. No need to have a #2/#4 steel as the TSS does all of the killing at range, so I chose the smallest steel shot necessary to minimize meat damage and preserve quality of the bird for taxidermy purposes as well. I have lost only 2 birds while using this load this past season. Very, very few birds needed a follow up shot to finish them off. My furthest shot was at about 85 yards on a goldeneye that folded up dead before it hit the water. I just wanted to see how far the pattern could be stretched out to, with that said, I'm comfortable taking game out to 60-65 yards. Beyond that, I just let the bird fly. I finished the season hunting local woodies and since they don't usually decoy, I had to make multiple 50-60 yard shots which folded them dead before they hit the ground/water. Extremely impressed after using that TSS load throughout the season.
@@mchenryjeremy i already have 10lbs of loose #8.5tss shot now. Going to run it in my 28ga and .410 this year.
Hey Drake, do these sbe3’s in 28 or 20 have the high and left issue like the 12’s?
Not in my 28ga; shoots 50/50 behind the bead with every load I’ve tried so far, which is almost odd as the vent rib appears to be regulated for a 60/40 pattern split.
The 20ga variants had reports of high patterns at release, but I’ve not heard much regarding it being a continuous issue since mid to late 2021. I also can’t verify if the 20ga model actually had those issues like the 12ga Supermag did, or if it was perceived to be high shooting and ragged on by people liking to complain on the internet. Reports on the 28ga seem to be that it patterns 50/50 to 60/40 splits and on center. Adjust drop/cast to the user and it’s about perfect, just like the other Ethos models and their derivatives.
I am curious as to why you prefer 28 gauge over the 20 gauge? I switched to 20 gauge 2 seasons ago over my 12 gauge for duck hunting and have been killing them all the same (actually better now with bismuth). I have 3 20 gauges and my main hunting piece weighs 5.8 lbs and I love it. I currently shoot boss 1 1/8 Oz of #5 copper plated bismuth and I have taken several ducks at 40 yards and they were big ducks at that. Anyway, I listened to your 10 gauge podcast and you gave much breath to recommending that wing shooters not push gauges beyond their intended roles. I find that the 28 gauge is currently being put in that category now. Why shoot a 28 gauge in a 3” when I can shoot a 20 in a 3” and have a bigger bore, more loads and just as light a gun? I’m interested to hear your thoughts. I love the content. P.s. I have a browning bps 10 and I just bought a late production mag 10! I’ll ask about that later though haha.
Also, I meant to say that my 20 gauge literally kills the ducks as effectively as the 12, but the recoil is much lighter and I make faster follow up shots and now get more double kills out of groups of ducks than ever before.
There are a number of reasons I selected the 28ga for my "small-bore" needs over a 20ga. For the most part, the standard 2-3/4" 28ga hull can accommodate very comparable payloads to the 2-3/4" 20ga hull at relatively reduced recoil impulse and lighter shotgun. The bore can be extremely efficient in both patterns, consumption of components, and delivery of lethal strikes on most game at reasonable distances. The 28ga lives best in the 40 yard and less range, however it can be loaded to near-peer regarding the 20ga, hull length for hull length, shot type for shot type. The ammunition is lighter, less bulky, and recovery time shot to shot is even less than a 20ga. I have made extended range kills and clay breaks with both the 20 and 28, but found no advantage to the 20 over the 28 in this category when applying my skill sets. With the right payload and patterns, both are capable of 50+ yard clean dispatches, but both still are best suited to the 40 yard mark and less. So, again, I selected the shotgun and bore with lighter weight, lighter payloads, lighter recoil, and easier to manage. Add to this a reduced report over any larger bore, more akin to a 22 mag than a shotgun, and it just stacks in favor of the lighter bore, in my opinion.
I have had a measurable amount of range and hunting time behind a 20 bore, and found it very enjoyable, but it did not make as much sense to me as it was just as heavy as a 16 bore and did not provide me anything I couldn't get out of a 16 or a light 12 bore with light for bore payloads. So, I progressed downward to the petite 28 bore and frame. Yes, a magnum 20ga load can enter into the 16 and 12 gauge payload range, but it will ultimately cause quite a lot of recoil in a light gun and may or may not have the pattern efficiency of the larger bores. The same can be said of the 28, but I have found thus far that both magnum payload charged 2-3/4" and 3" hulls have produced little to no difference in effect from what I can get out of a 20 gauge. An additional benefit I have found in the 28 over the 20 is that many small frame and young shooters whose hands I have placed a 28 bore in have found it extremely enjoyable. I cannot say the same for the 20ga, even though it is a common choice for small framed and young sportsmen/women. Fit to the shooter has a lot to do with this, but the diminished report and recoil are a very high factor in introducing new shooters to wingshooting. There is something about the smaller hull size that makes the uninitiated user feel more comfortable as well; it is not intimidating and seems very modest, which elicits a calm.
There is no issue with selecting one bore over the other, as payload capacity for your hunting/shooting needs and fit/feel of the shotgun are the most important items when selecting a shotgun. Personally, whenever I see a 20 gauge chambered gun that I am interested in, I often wish it were a 28 on a true 28ga frame. Much of this is personal preference, but a lot of it is to do with the fact that the 28 does everything I need it to. In the event I need a higher payload to extended past the range that the petite and extremely efficient 28 bore can offer, I will be selecting a 12 or 10 for that work. Yes, I still use a 16ga on occasion and I do enjoy all my old 12ga duck guns as well as the newer ones, but there is something very satisfying about carrying of a very modest and civilized cartridge and shotgun in the field. Much the same can be said of a 20 bore, but that is simply a personal preference.
As you note with your 20ga, effect on game for shotguns is near identical so long as the velocity, shot type, and shot size is maintained. The difference comes in regarding the quality of the patterns and the overall pattern density (total payload of shot). A 10 bore will always win in the pattern density potential category, however, a No. 4 pellet of Bismuth starting at 1,300 FPS out of a 10 will always have the same performance as the same No.4 Bismuth pellet at 1,300 FPS out of a .410 bore. The only difference is there are a hell of a lot more pellets in the 10ga payload than their are in that minuscule .410 bore.
What is impressive and speaks volumes to one's wingshootng capabilities is their proficiency and competency, regardless of shotgun and bore selected. I have been an will always be more impressed by good hunters and shooters using well worn single shots to great effect than I have someone who has the very best of the best equipment and the most expensive fowling piece they could afford missing more than half of their shots.
Thanks for watching, commenting, and the questions!
- Drake
The answer to your debate or question is simple: Did you use 28 Guage or not, I agree with you that 20 Guage is a great shotgun, light compared with 12 gauge, I have been using 28 Guage for more than 3 years and I found it its great gun light or very light
Have you thought about upgrading the recoil spring or find it not as necessary with this gun? Thanks
I have “upgraded” the action spring of the SBE 3 28ga. The action spring started to seem a little sluggish and weak around the 700+ round mark, so I took a standard power spring that came out of my 12ga SBE 3, trimmed 1-1/2” off of it and installed it. No detriment to function and reliability with all loads and it has given the action its same power (if not a little more than) when it was factory fresh.
@@AmericanArmsChannel thanks! So the 12ga standard power spring would essentially be a slight increase in power over the standard 28ga?
@@brandonb2684 it is when cut to the proper size. You want it about 1” to 1-1/2” shorter than it comes standard. The increased wire size is what gives you greater resistance and durability (in theory). I am not sure why Benelli is not equipping the 28ga with better springs, but it is most likely to accommodate the lowest power ammunition and still cycle.
@@AmericanArmsChannel that makes sense thanks Drake! So far mine is cycling everything well. But the action does close a little slower then I’m used to. Figure it will only get slower in time.
Are you still able to cycle 3/4 target loads with your spring upgrade?
@@brandonb2684 yes. Everything I have fed it from 3/4oz and up has cycled perfectly after the spring replacement (including throwing it action down in a dirty snow pack and shooting it from the hip proved it runs perfectly haha!).
Can you provide any comparison between the sbe 3 and the mossberg 28's. Is there any reason to consider the mossberg or just go for the benelli?
Thanks
That is a video I have been considering creating for a while now. I believe I will be creating it, but I don't really know when. There are a lot of irons in the fire behind the scenes currently, so 10ga and 28ga content is on pause for the moment. I will get to it though.
On paper, both shotguns stack up very similar on a number of points:
- Hard Case
- Excellent (external) Fit/Finnish
- 5 Chokes + Wrench included
- Shim Kit to adjust Drop/Cast
- Adult LOP at 14 - 14.5"
- Weight between 5.5 and 6.5 lbs
- 26" barrel (28" available in SBE 3)
But, when you scratch past the surface you are still comparing a $600 Turkish shotgun against a $1,600 Italian shotgun; there will be discrepancies.
If you are on a smaller budget and do not need or see a benefit to having the 3" chamber, the Mossberg SA-28 or it's TriStar equivalent will suffice and be a very useful 28 bore for you. However, if you do not want to have to possibly tinker with the shotgun, have no ammo selectivity whatsoever, and want a 100% dead-ass reliable 28 bore auto loader, it's hard to beat the SBE 3 28ga. I wish I could comment on the A400 28ga, but perhaps in the future I can also take a look at that shotgun.
I have thought a few times recently that surely the little inertia action would not reliably feed when inundated with grit, unburnt powder, ice flakes, dust, and all the things that come with neglect from riding around all hunting season under the back truck seat and only being whipped down externally to keep rust at bay. But sure enough, when the time came to sling pellets at darting cotton tails in a pasture, the SBE 3 kept on chugging through every last round that was stuffed in it. I can not always say the same for the SA-28.
While the SA-28 has performed admirably and done incredibly well at times I did not expect it to, there is a degree of ammo selectivity and overall slightly lower reliability than a higher quality option. If the SBE 3 28 is 100% reliable, the SA-28 is about 98% reliable out of the box.
@@AmericanArmsChannel Thanks for taking the time to reply. I think that answers my questions. I definitely dont need a picky gun. I guess I would be better off looking at a Benelli or A400. I plan on loading my own bismuth shells for some close range ducks.
I am working on some 10 ga loads from your data. Have you seen 3N38 to be very temp sensitive? My velocities were much lower. However I was checking speeds in 35 degree weather.
Thanks as always and keep up the great videos.
You're most welcome. The link below is my complete write-up/Review on the SA-28 if you are interested. I would agree though, if you don't want to potentially have to tinker out of the box, a higher grade option is the best choice.
allthingsthatgobang.wordpress.com/2022/05/18/mossberg-international-sa-28-a-gateway-to-a-more-civilized-cartridge/
I have not found 3N38 to be terribly temp sensitive, but I have noticed in low temps it likes a larger charge to burn better and achieve the desired velocities. I have found false pressure signs at 80 degrees, but then on 15 degree hunt days sometimes the loads are slightly slower than I desired. This has caused me to bump powder charges slightly ( about 5%) to bring it back up to where I want it. I’ve not seen the slower velocities make a big difference on the birds while hunting, but it gives me peace of mind when I know I will get the velocities I set out for in the first place. I have seen the same thing with STEEL, Blue Dote, Herco, 800X, IMR Blue, Lil’Gun, and Longshot in the 10 and 12 gauges, which are all regarded as great powders for magnum loads. Shotshell/pistol powders seem to be the least temp stable powders when compared to modern rifle powders. As long as you are not getting blooper loads you are at a good charge weight.
I have also found wad seating and crimp pressure plays a big role in getting the powder to burn completely in the cold. If you can get some set-down on your press or with a finishing tool, make sure you do so. It will compress the load more and keep those pressures up in the cold.
@@AmericanArmsChannel Thanks. I am within your 5% rule so maybe that is exactly what I am seeing as well. I probably could go a lil deeper on my set back and they may help. Seen pretty consistent velocities out of the 3N38 so far. Definitely liking it. Thanks for the tips.
What benefits does the 28 ga have over the 20ga?
Great Question. There are several advantages of using a 28ga shotgun over a 20ga. Here's a short list of several:
1) Lighter Weight - A true 28ga frame is slimmer and lighter than the 20ga frame, providing for a faster moving gun in tight quarters (such as the grouse woods, timber holes for ducks, and brush busting for upland game like rabbit, quail, and pheasant). Most true 28 frame doubles and autos fall into the 5 to 6 pound range. 20's can be made this light, but can become brutes when charged with certain magnum hunting loads. The 28ga sits at a very nice balance point of weight in that it is not so light it floats everywhere as you try to lead a target, but it is light enough to make long range sessions or hunting excursions unburdened by a heavier framed shotgun.
2) Lighter Recoil - The 28ga typically provides less than or equal to felt recoil than a 20ga, depending on weight of the firearm and load. The standard target and field load of 3/4oz at 1,300 FPS provides for minimal felt recoil
3) Less Disruptive Report - in general, the 28ga has a much more polite report than any of the larger bores. I would compare it to the sharp crack of a 22 magnum with most loads more-so than the boom of a shotgun. This reduced report will be appreciated by your hunting partners and your dog. It offers further benefit in that it, anecdotally, seems to frighten quarry less and provide for less lost opportunities due to spooked game after the first few shots.
4) Pattern Efficiency - contrary to what you would expect out of a smaller bored shotgun, the 28ga in general is very efficient in its patterns. The loads are not square and the shot strings with most shot material are believed to be longer (no one has put a high speed camera on a 28ga yet to confirm, to my knowledge). While you do have a reduced payload and a full pattern from a 1oz charge will have less strikes than a full pattern of a 1-1/4oz charge, it is not enough of a difference at the ranges a smaller bore is most useful to cause any discrepancies in effect on game. Patterns are typically even and very effective in the field.
5) Diverse payload options with Magnum chambers - If the standard 5/8, 3/4, 7/8, and 1 ounce lead, bismuth, and steel shot field loads offered in the 2-3/4" hull and chamber are not enough for you, there is the option to select a shotgun with a 3" chamber. The Magnum chamber/hull adds an additional 12.5% to 15% capacity increase, placing the payloads on par with many 20ga magnum loads in the 2-3/4" and 3" hull lengths. Should you venture into the TSS realm with your shot type and payload selection, the 2-3/4" hull is capable of handling up to 1-5/8oz of shot easily, while the 3" should be able to push into the 1-7/8oz or even 2oz range if you are to hand load. Again, a measurable amount lower than the 20ga, but not enough of a difference to make a substantially noticeable difference in the field. All this said, the 28ga is very much capable of taking diverse types of game throughout the hunting season; from dove in September to big Canada geese in January, and wary toms in April - if you pick the right load it will get the job done (within reason).
If you are looking for a disadvantage over the 20ga, it is payload and pellet size capability. The 28ga will always top out at approximately 10% to 15% lower payload capacity than a 20ga, as it simply does not have the volume for the additional shot. Being that you will have near the same pattern efficiency and the same velocities as the 20ga, even at 45 yards this is not as much of a detriment as it may seem by the numbers on paper. When it comes to larger shot however, the larger bore will always win. Whereas a 28ga will typically top out at a No. 3 sized pellet before hull capacity and patterning potential of larger sized shot gets in the way, the 20ga will be able to utilize No.2 and No. 1 shot before it sees detriment to patterns and capacity; both of these assessments exclude buckshot. If you are selecting between these two gauges, however, you are most likely not concerned with larger pellets or extended range pass shooting. If you are, you need to look at the 16, 12, and 10 gauge frames for that particular work.
Personally, I selected the 28ga as it gave me everything I could want and have use for in a 20ga cartridge, with all of the above benefits. I have found that if the 28 cannot do what I need done, I will go on to a 12 or 10ga. That said, I have been very happy with the petite cartridge's capabilities at the 40 yard and less mark common for me during early and mid bird seasons.
Thank you for the great reply!
the magazine how many cartridges , I hope its 4+1, if its not is there is any 28 gauge have 4+1
@@marco1964star the sbe 3 28ga has 2+1 capacity. The 28ga Benelli Ethos models have a 4+1 capacity. The Beretta A400 28ga and most of the Turkish made 28ga autos have 4+1 capacity.
@@AmericanArmsChannel thanks
@AmericanArmsChannel you know many on the market, and I want to buy 4+1. What do you recommend
@@marco1964star if you have the budget to buy a quality auto in 28ga, I recommend staying with a Benelli or Beretta product, or similar. To the best of my knowledge, these are the only two larger manufacturers producing mid to high level autos in 28 bore. Browning does not offer an auto 28 and Remington does not currently produce the Model 1100 Sport in 28ga. All of the Beretta/Benlli models will be 4+1 capacity, except the SBE3.
The Benelli Legacy/Ultra-lite, Ethos, and SBE 3 models (which all have several variants) are all chambered in 28 bore on a true to cartridge frame. The Ethos and the SBE 3 will have 3” chambers, while the Legacy/Ultra-lite will be 2-3/4” only
The Beretta A400 in Upland and Xplor models are quality selections as well. Be mindful that older production examples will be 2-3/4” shells only and so will some of the newer variants. Be sure to order the correct SKU or inspect the example you are considering buying to make sure it has a 3” chamber, if you are wanting the 3” magnum capability.
For lower price point options, the Weatherby SA-08, Mossberg International SA-28, and the Tri-Star Viper G2 28 are very affordable and well-performing models out of Turkey. All come from Huglu (if I am not mistaken) and are relatively the same gun, just with slight variations in trigger groups, controls, and finishes. All are 2-3/4” only and gas operated. The Mossberg SA-08 I had performed well and was very reliable. They are heavier than their more expensive piers, but do very well as a general sporting and hunting gun in 28ga.
@AmericanArmsChannel Thanks for all this great 👍 information with details
I am thinking of buying Beretta A400 Upland, again many thanks