2008 F-250 6.4L FRONT COVER PT2
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- Опубліковано 4 вер 2020
- Starting with the front of the block, I'll get to finish the installation of a new front cover and torque everything down before a technical glitch will cut it short. Below are the links to part 1 which can help if you need for reassembly; also, for Diesel Tech Ron's video which helped me a ton.
PT.1: • 2008 F-250 6.4L FRONT ...
DTR's front seal installer: • 6.0 6.4 Ford Powerstro... - Авто та транспорт
I wish I lived closer to learn more about 6.4l from you ! Thanks 4 the video !
Stay tuned. I'm going to be swapping out a long block in my dad's 6.4L. Hopefully this coming month.
Thanks, this was a HUGE help. All I really had to research was crank shaft pulley gets torqued to 212 ft lbs on reassembly
Great video’s lots of respect to you brother love that you brought up diesel tech Ron he was an awesome guy used his knowledge and video’s a lot helped me on several of my trucks
Just want to say, I really appreciate your videos! I’m getting ready to change my front cover as well as head gaskets, and studs. Also I’m going to change my oil cooler. My goal is to do all the work “Cab On”. I know it’s gonna be more difficult that way, but it is what it is. I also have to change the rear main seal, I have a small leak. While having the motor apart, I’m gonna do the Odawg intake manifold, as well as change the exhaust manifolds and up pipes. I’m gonna go with the 6.0 liter, exhaust manifolds also. It’s definitely gonna be a lot of work, but I feel like it will be worth it in the end. My truck is puking antifreeze when I speed up to pass someone, and when I haul, so I’m guessing it’s the head gaskets. There’s no coolant or fuel mixing with my oil, so the problem isn’t super bad. My truck is deleted, but I don’t run any “Hot” tunes. I’m really trying to make my 6.4 dependable, as it is my daily driver. 2008 Ford F-250 6.4, 180,000 miles.
Thank you. I'm getting ready to do this today and I'm scared shitless. This video definitely helped me
Take your time. keep all the fasteners separated. I use labeled ziplock baggies, but whatever works. if you have a decent 3/8 drive metric socket (AND an 8mm) set and a few simple tools, you'll be fine!
All good my man. Great video. Thanks for all that you and the rest of you do.
Great video brother. I was hoping you'd start it up so we could hear the engine hum...
Frank, me again. So I did some more checking on the 8C3Z-6700-B front seal. It does not have a separate ware ring. It comes ready to press in. It has a green coating on it and the Ford Diesel Tech said no blue Loctite on it. Again when you get this seal it is already pieced together just press it on. I guess I'll know soon enough whether it leaks. Thanks for responding.
Thank you for making this video. The truck I'm buying has a brand new engine but has a front seal leak. So I am going to do this whole process. I also suspect the mechanic never installed a front seal sleeve.
WAIT! You mean just the front main seal right?? if you have the installation tool you can install the FMS from underneath without doing much more than removing the belts! Good luck.
Thanks alot, this will help my project.
Thanks for video
Just want to know what kind of Blue loctite or is there a number on which one to use
Frank, great videos on the 6.4. Can I get the part number for the front seal installer from Freedom Racing? Keep up the good work and thanks in advance.
Wouldn't the blue locktite go on the outer ring on the seal? I totally enjoyed this video thanks.
There is no longer a wear ring that's separators from the seal. The 6700-b has a coating in the ring, do I still use the blue Loctite? I'm thinking the ring in the seal doesn't turn with the crank shaft. Your thoughts?
STRICTLY MY OPINION: 1. IF you can turn the 2 separate "pieces" of the seal separately, I would use loctite. If it is one solid piece, I would not use it. 2. If in any included instructions it says not to use it, I would not use it. (that's what I would do.)
Was that crank seal updated with oil sleeve already attached Ford saying they don’t have oil sleeve
Yes, they come with the oil ring attached as 1 part. O'reilly's # 710901
Great video, with very helpful tips!
Hey Frank,
Did you have to do anything special with the oil pump as far as fit up? Did it feel like it wanted to bind or it went right on with no problems?
Thanks in advance.
Make sure the surfaces are clean and lubricate with clean engine oil. It might feel a little tight, but the gear should move freely. The outer ring will be a tight fit in the housing, but once it's in, it shouldn't bind.
frank can we get the link for the front seal installer
thanks
www.amazon.com/Crankshaft-Installer-303-1259-Powerstroke-2008-2010/dp/B0834M7BQZ
Did you need or do anything special to put the crankshaft pulley back in place?
Absolutely not. It BARELY hangs on by itself. It's not pressed on at all. A guide pin ensures you can't put it on "wrong". 18mm to the torque mentioned + 90° easy peasy.
I have a question. I took out my front seal but it had no wear ring and the new kit also does not come with wear ring. My truck is also a 2008 F-350 6.4 .. and where exactly do you put the sealant on the gasket ?
I bought the full kit from Oreillys. The doman kit comes with timing cover Gaskets and seals along with water pump gasket. But the seal looks like it has its own sleeve(wear ring) is this an updated desing? The old one i took up looks the same as the new one like a new design . This seal was replaces like 50k miles ago but my water pump failed and also i was changing thermostats and saw alot of cavitation there too so i went ahead and bought all this parts
And also another question Do i need to replace the crank pulley bolts ? No auto part store or dealer near me got any and the fastest i can get them its 3 weeks from now and i need to get my truck going by tomorrow.
The new seals were fitted with the added ring about 5 or 6 years ago. dieseltechron (RIP) added threadlock to the sleeve so that's why I added it.
@@luizzy__ the crank bolts are dealer only. just re-use the old ones if you need the truck right now, but I would replace them soon since they are torque to yield.
@@frankdaiii6403 Since i will use them for short period of time atleast 2 weeks. Do i have to torque them to 50 fp? Or can i do less ? I was doing some research on them and i can re use them as long as they seem in good shape i have to lune them and use locktite as well.
Question I have to drain the oil to do the timing cover gasket?
Not if it's an "emergency" fix, but I HIGHLY recommend it as you might be dropping dirt and contaminants into the oil galleys. Also, if you're replacing the oil pump at the same time, it would be wise to start with fresh oil (and filter).
Ok, thank you.
Is it easy to do
Sorry, I misread your post. I would NOT say it is easy to do, but it depends on your experience whether any work on a 6.4L is easy or "hard." It's definitely labor intensive.