😢 I have a 1998 GTS 717 seadoo, bought new. Does the oil injector move with the throttle. What makes the injector move. I just installed carb & cables. The throttle operates great however the injector is not spring loaded & doesn’t move with the throttle cable. Does it move only when the engine is running? Thanks.
Next time you run into a stuck screw situation of any kind. Make sure the carburetor is in a vise or you have a buddy hold it down solid against your bench top. Put your screw driver in the screw head and while your turning the screw hit the top of your screw driver with a small hammer. How hard you hit the top of the screw driver will depend on how stuck the screw is. Also when you have a screw head that is protruding and not flush like the 2 you just had trouble with. If you start to see that the head is going to strip, STOP! With a small hammer (I use a ballping hammer) use a light to medium blow directly to the top of the screw head, and that will close the slots back together. I call it reconditioning the screw head slots, and that also pushes the threads on the screw downwards helping to loosen the screw. If I'm diving into a carburetor that I foresee it giving me trouble. I'll give all the protruding screws 1 descent blow with a hammer before ettempting to unscrew them. Hope this helps you in the future, CD's Cycle and ATV Shop
ordered the bay area powersports kit, now im a little hesitant. the biggest difference i see is the diaphragm, bay area one seems to be thicker. i read a few review before i purchased and they seem to like the kit and say it works great. Im hoping it works for me . thanks for the video!
Hey I got a 96 seadoo speedster. twin engine twin carb. 717 rotax engines. When in the water and full throttle, the right engine bogs down. Basically drops a few RPM and then goes back up. Any ideas what I can be? I already blew out the lines, cleaned fuel filter. I also tried changing the rectifier. Same.
Every screw on a Japanese product that looks like a Phillips head is most likely a JIS (Japanese Industry Standard), they have a slightly blunter tip than Phillips, so the blades go deeper into the screw head. I've made one by grinding the tip of the #2 Phillips bit down and test fitting it as I went. I used a bit so I could put it in the screw head and tap it with a small hammer to break the screw threads loose a little and seat the bit. The JIS blades may be slightly wider too, I don't know, I haven't seen the technical drawings of both. I've noticed other videos telling people to change that spring but I don't understand why so I agree with you. Unless it's corroded or something there's no need to change it and springs can have so much difference in them to risk it. Also agree with your practice of putting the jets in the chem dip, especially on a carb that's set for any amount of time and is gunked up. Dried gas residue can actually leave a build up inside the passage of the jet effectively downsizing your jet. So if they're a little green dip them.
Got a question. So on the fuel pump side the plastic and gasket. Like a dummy I didn't pay attention when I took it off but I was following a different youtuber and he took a gasket then plastic then another gasket and sandwiched them together. So I did that, put it on and now I'm not getting fuel. So I seen another video and yours I noticed you dont sandwich the plastic. Will that be my issue why I'm not getting fuel?
If you’re referring to the fuel pump side of the carb where the pulse cover is, then it goes like this: Pulse cover-paper gasket with large round hole-clear plastic gasket that covers the hole-large circular o-ring-fuel pump body with check valves-flexible rubber diaphragm-formed odd shaped o ring-carb body
The only problem with the hand held impact is the force of the blow you have to hit it with. They are great for alot of things, but you can break something quick on a aluminum carburetor. The methods I mentioned in the comments above works 9 out of 10 times with a stuck screw on a carburetor.
@@williamrayburn5290 OEM means Original Equipment Manufacturer parts. Any carb kit costing less than $60 per carb and not made by MIKUNI is going to give you issues. You need to find what year, model (spx, xp, gts, etc.) and if you have single or dual carbs and look in the boxes on the left of the website and find your exact kit
u have to pop test the needle n seat and set tonproper psi or ur pissin in the wind, also retest with cover on it, the needle arm has to be flush with carb body or lower , or ull flood the crap out of it
They work so much better. For the outside ones on carb its best to use something called an "impact screwdriver" you hit it with a hammer and it's a flathead bit. I have yet to get one yet I always use a flathead with a cordless impact.
@@jetskirehab750 mine came of with a big flare head except one that was rusted took a big flathead and locking pliers and it finally came off there was so much junk in there it’d probably fill my hand with bits of green goo and some yellowish bits didn’t know what that was but now she’s all clean got the rebuild coming in the mail today and then ima clean the fuel system like you did n hopefully she runs taking out the fuel baffle I cracked one of the parts the tube goes on I’m hoping I can just jb weld it back on cus it was reading fuel level before I took it out
@@jetskirehab750 my steering cable snapped towards the handlebars and when I got the steering cable undone it doesn’t seem to wanna come out any suggestions?
@@therandomrobert1842 Where does it not want to come out of? I actually have 0 experience with steering components believe it or not. I bet some penetrating fluid would help whatever the problem is
😢 I have a 1998 GTS 717 seadoo, bought new. Does the oil injector move with the throttle. What makes the injector move. I just installed carb & cables. The throttle operates great however the injector is not spring loaded & doesn’t move with the throttle cable. Does it move only when the engine is running? Thanks.
I have to drill my screws out too.
I always replace them with allens.
Great vid
Whats in the paint bucket at 32 mins mark please and thanks 32:27
Next time you run into a stuck screw situation of any kind. Make sure the carburetor is in a vise or you have a buddy hold it down solid against your bench top. Put your screw driver in the screw head and while your turning the screw hit the top of your screw driver with a small hammer. How hard you hit the top of the screw driver will depend on how stuck the screw is. Also when you have a screw head that is protruding and not flush like the 2 you just had trouble with. If you start to see that the head is going to strip, STOP! With a small hammer (I use a ballping hammer) use a light to medium blow directly to the top of the screw head, and that will close the slots back together. I call it reconditioning the screw head slots, and that also pushes the threads on the screw downwards helping to loosen the screw.
If I'm diving into a carburetor that I foresee it giving me trouble. I'll give all the protruding screws 1 descent blow with a hammer before ettempting to unscrew them. Hope this helps you in the future,
CD's Cycle and ATV Shop
ordered the bay area powersports kit, now im a little hesitant. the biggest difference i see is the diaphragm, bay area one seems to be thicker. i read a few review before i purchased and they seem to like the kit and say it works great. Im hoping it works for me . thanks for the video!
Hey I got a 96 seadoo speedster. twin engine twin carb. 717 rotax engines. When in the water and full throttle, the right engine bogs down. Basically drops a few RPM and then goes back up. Any ideas what I can be? I already blew out the lines, cleaned fuel filter. I also tried changing the rectifier. Same.
So very helpful!
Every screw on a Japanese product that looks like a Phillips head is most likely a JIS (Japanese Industry Standard), they have a slightly blunter tip than Phillips, so the blades go deeper into the screw head. I've made one by grinding the tip of the #2 Phillips bit down and test fitting it as I went. I used a bit so I could put it in the screw head and tap it with a small hammer to break the screw threads loose a little and seat the bit. The JIS blades may be slightly wider too, I don't know, I haven't seen the technical drawings of both. I've noticed other videos telling people to change that spring but I don't understand why so I agree with you. Unless it's corroded or something there's no need to change it and springs can have so much difference in them to risk it. Also agree with your practice of putting the jets in the chem dip, especially on a carb that's set for any amount of time and is gunked up. Dried gas residue can actually leave a build up inside the passage of the jet effectively downsizing your jet. So if they're a little green dip them.
Impact for the win everytime🤣
My ski was flooding after driving fast and would stall at idle. Will this help fix that
Yes more than likely
Got a question. So on the fuel pump side the plastic and gasket. Like a dummy I didn't pay attention when I took it off but I was following a different youtuber and he took a gasket then plastic then another gasket and sandwiched them together. So I did that, put it on and now I'm not getting fuel. So I seen another video and yours I noticed you dont sandwich the plastic. Will that be my issue why I'm not getting fuel?
If you’re referring to the fuel pump side of the carb where the pulse cover is, then it goes like this:
Pulse cover-paper gasket with large round hole-clear plastic gasket that covers the hole-large circular o-ring-fuel pump body with check valves-flexible rubber diaphragm-formed odd shaped o ring-carb body
Do you happen to know what carburetor is on my 1993 Waverunner VXR 650 and my 1996 Waveraider 700? They are both single carbs.
They should be mikuni carbs. Go to osdparts.com and see what they offer for it
@@jetskirehab750 Thank you sir!
Once you use a hand held impact with a set of good bits, (I have the Vessel so it should have come with JIS) you never go back
The only problem with the hand held impact is the force of the blow you have to hit it with. They are great for alot of things, but you can break something quick on a aluminum carburetor. The methods I mentioned in the comments above works 9 out of 10 times with a stuck screw on a carburetor.
I stripped the same dang screw that you drilled out where did you get the replacement bud?
eBay! There’s a kit I buy I can link for you.
www.ebay.com/itm/172988886282
Sometimes the exterior screws are too long but the internals are always great
Lol yeah it was the same iner one im like you gotta be kidding of all ones
M4x70x20 at ace hardware just have to trim it down a tad
Hey what’s the om or oem kit and where is it my seadoo is do the same thing and I’ve changed everything just about like you did
What year and model is your ski? Single or dual carbs?
@@jetskirehab750 98 bombardier dual carbs
@@williamrayburn5290 osdparts.com
@@jetskirehab750 so I need to get the daul carb rebuild kit?? Because I’ve done rebuild my crabs I just don’t know what to oem kit is ?
@@williamrayburn5290 OEM means Original Equipment Manufacturer parts. Any carb kit costing less than $60 per carb and not made by MIKUNI is going to give you issues. You need to find what year, model (spx, xp, gts, etc.) and if you have single or dual carbs and look in the boxes on the left of the website and find your exact kit
NEVER wirewheel or file the pulse cover! You diminish the raised metal surface. This surface is essential for an air tight seal.
Never had an issues so long as you sand it smooth with sandpaper afterwards!
u have to pop test the needle n seat and set tonproper psi or ur pissin in the wind, also retest with cover on it, the needle arm has to be flush with carb body or lower , or ull flood the crap out of it
I did pop off test it, that’s in a different video.
Stripped two of my screws never knew about the Japanese type
They work so much better. For the outside ones on carb its best to use something called an "impact screwdriver" you hit it with a hammer and it's a flathead bit. I have yet to get one yet I always use a flathead with a cordless impact.
@@jetskirehab750 mine came of with a big flare head except one that was rusted took a big flathead and locking pliers and it finally came off there was so much junk in there it’d probably fill my hand with bits of green goo and some yellowish bits didn’t know what that was but now she’s all clean got the rebuild coming in the mail today and then ima clean the fuel system like you did n hopefully she runs taking out the fuel baffle I cracked one of the parts the tube goes on I’m hoping I can just jb weld it back on cus it was reading fuel level before I took it out
@@therandomrobert1842 I hope it all works out for you! If you need anything don't hesitate to ask. Make sure to like and subscribe!
@@jetskirehab750 my steering cable snapped towards the handlebars and when I got the steering cable undone it doesn’t seem to wanna come out any suggestions?
@@therandomrobert1842 Where does it not want to come out of? I actually have 0 experience with steering components believe it or not. I bet some penetrating fluid would help whatever the problem is
Razor blade is proper way to remove old gaskets, not sure about your methods.
I personally use a wire wheel or light file but a razor would work well also
simply just break them loose with a vise grip that what i do..
Whatever works for you