Great method overall but a couple of tweaks to be even more efficient. Leader arrives at anchor, installs quad, clips in with personal anchor system already attached to harness and is off belay. Lead climber then unties, threads rope for rappel, and continues to thread as slack is pulled up to put follower on belay. Follower is on belay and rappell is already threaded and hanging down the pitch. The follower arrives at belay, clips to master point, unties and rope is ready for descent.
Cheers for another great video. Few points as above, I've usually just directed anchored with whatever lanyard/tether rather then clove/unclove with the rope, go off belay, then untie, thread rope and pull the rope through the anchor chains (ie at 0:47), then tie a blocking knot at the middle marker, then take up the rest of the rope until 'on me' and start belaying in 'guide mode'. Your described method seems to lead to uncessary double handling of the rope (ie pulling up and threading to middle mark separately). 5:12 The second can also transition directly from being top belayed to their rappel rig without clipping into the belay station (taking their end down during the rappel). RE: hands off in 'guide mode' "where geometry of the devise makes it impossible for the climbers strand to not pinch the break strand- as long as you’re using the proper devise that is rated for you rope diameter." -there are known failure modes, and going hands off, while common, is unlikely to be endorsed by the manufacturer of your device. Sure, its all risks v. benefits, but I wouldn't consider it standard on an average day out. Discussion and some manufacturers recommendations here - www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/114968823/guide-mode-hand-on-brake-strand-at-all-times , AMGA instructor - ua-cam.com/video/mdD4MbcE1hs/v-deo.html
I go climbing to chill out, enjoy the surroundings and sometimes test myself. I don't go climbing to rush things up at the anchor, and get my buddy hurt because I'm not paying attention to belaying him/her.
A number of companies make rope markers that don’t have any chemicals that could harm your rope. I usually use the Beal one but it’s not the best one on the market. It still gets the job done!
Athletic tape is pretty good from what I hear, the stuff used to tape fingers and ankles. IIRC, if its good to use on your skin, its good to use on the rope.
Yep, bowline dandy has it right, I also have a video about how I specifically tie it on my channel too, it’s called how to tie a quad anchor with a quad sling, thanks for watching!!
You are a guide? Taking your hand off the brake strand so you can save 30 seconds to change over to rappelling? Bad idea and definitely not something that is approved by any guiding association.
@@ryantilley9063 Ah dang! Thought I recognized that ledge in relation to the road, but I guess they all look the same - chossy with some spiky plants haha. Edit: Great videos!
Great method overall but a couple of tweaks to be even more efficient. Leader arrives at anchor, installs quad, clips in with personal anchor system already attached to harness and is off belay. Lead climber then unties, threads rope for rappel, and continues to thread as slack is pulled up to put follower on belay. Follower is on belay and rappell is already threaded and hanging down the pitch. The follower arrives at belay, clips to master point, unties and rope is ready for descent.
Cheers for another great video.
Few points as above, I've usually just directed anchored with whatever lanyard/tether rather then clove/unclove with the rope, go off belay, then untie, thread rope and pull the rope through the anchor chains (ie at 0:47), then tie a blocking knot at the middle marker, then take up the rest of the rope until 'on me' and start belaying in 'guide mode'. Your described method seems to lead to uncessary double handling of the rope (ie pulling up and threading to middle mark separately).
5:12
The second can also transition directly from being top belayed to their rappel rig without clipping into the belay station (taking their end down during the rappel).
RE: hands off in 'guide mode'
"where geometry of the devise makes it impossible for the climbers strand to not pinch the break strand- as long as you’re using the proper devise that is rated for you rope diameter."
-there are known failure modes, and going hands off, while common, is unlikely to be endorsed by the manufacturer of your device. Sure, its all risks v. benefits, but I wouldn't consider it standard on an average day out. Discussion and some manufacturers recommendations here - www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/114968823/guide-mode-hand-on-brake-strand-at-all-times , AMGA instructor - ua-cam.com/video/mdD4MbcE1hs/v-deo.html
Awesome Ryan. zero wind noise too 😎👍
I go climbing to chill out, enjoy the surroundings and sometimes test myself.
I don't go climbing to rush things up at the anchor, and get my buddy hurt because I'm not paying attention to belaying him/her.
My middle-mark is wearing off and difficult to see. What are my options to make it more visible without jeopardizing the integrity of the rope?
A number of companies make rope markers that don’t have any chemicals that could harm your rope. I usually use the Beal one but it’s not the best one on the market. It still gets the job done!
Athletic tape is pretty good from what I hear, the stuff used to tape fingers and ankles. IIRC, if its good to use on your skin, its good to use on the rope.
Great video! What knot do you have tied on your quad up by the anchor points to shorten it like that?
Liam Waghorn bhk on one end and normal overhand or fig 8 on the other
Yep, bowline dandy has it right, I also have a video about how I specifically tie it on my channel too, it’s called how to tie a quad anchor with a quad sling, thanks for watching!!
You are a guide? Taking your hand off the brake strand so you can save 30 seconds to change over to rappelling? Bad idea and definitely not something that is approved by any guiding association.
Third pitch of jungle mountaineering?
David Ebel close, it was on black cat bone to the right
@@ryantilley9063 Ah dang! Thought I recognized that ledge in relation to the road, but I guess they all look the same - chossy with some spiky plants haha.
Edit: Great videos!