Best Arrma Mods - Servo Shock Impact Mod
Вставка
- Опубліковано 8 жов 2020
- For an "above and beyond answer to your questions" ask here:
asqme.com/@EastTactics
find your parts here first - Organized Storefront
www.amazon.com/shop/easttactics
East Tactics MERCH (Shirts etc)
east-tactics-shop.fourthwall.com
This is a Must do! ESC Servo UPGRADE - Shock Impact mod, If you're a basher, Protecting your Electronics is one of the most commonly overlooked modifications. If want your RC to last, putting attention toward mitigating shock impact on the Servo, ESC and fans is an absolute MUST.
Shock Mitigation PROJECT Playlist
• Shock Impact Mitigatio...
Shock Mitigation Projects (Parts)
amzn.to/3bVZAFw
**QUICK ACCESS PRODUCT LINKS BELOW**
Links cover ARRMA 6S
[KRATON, OUTCAST, NOTORIOUS, TYPHON, TALION, & SENTON]
… but always confirm
BUY AN ARRMA VEHICLE!!
amzn.to/3kmo6nz
Support my Channel
Buy me a coffee: www.buymeacoffee.com/Easttactics
Join my UA-cam channel: / @easttactics
Support me on Patreon (thank you): www.patreon.com/Easttactics?f...
Hit up my PayPal (thank you): www.paypal.com/paypalme/randy...
Below links - Please consider “checking out” within the instance created. it is much appreciated!
As an Amazon Associate, qualifying purchases support my channel.
Arrma Kraton V4 (Parts and upgrades)
amzn.to/3meGPBU
DIY High Power fan Project PLAYLIST
• DIY RC High powered fans
DIY High Power fan Project (Parts)
amzn.to/2GTPpWt
40mm ESC Basher Fan mount
shop.alza-racing.com/en/maker...
OFFSET 40mm ESC fan adapters - Arriving in his (Recalls565) store soon
www.ebay.com/sch/recall565/m....
Watch this Video for details - • Video
Fan Covers
shop.alza-racing.com/en/39-fa...
GET THOSE FANS HERE
Amazon -
Buy 1 - amzn.to/3xSuEl3
Buy 5 - amzn.to/3bcc3sg
Buy 10 - amzn.to/3zUHYb7
AliExpress -
1 pack - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_ANFqHR
5 pack - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AZ4ctB
Arrma Kraton EXB Parts (Parts and upgrades)
amzn.to/3hqYlPG
Shock Springs Experiment
ARRMA Big Rock Springs (Search EBAY) - AR330417
I'm Using 5000cst Diff fluid in the shocks - amzn.to/38rdmyd
M2C Emulsion Shock caps - m2cracing.net
[Search - M2C 3075 ARRMA 16 MM ZRS SHOCK CAPS AND ORING SHOCK PISTONS
BATTERY CONNECTOR CONVERSION TOOLS (If needed)
EC5 Connectors - amzn.to/2LGMEak
Soldering Iron - amzn.to/2Tiu1h2
Solder station w/ Solder - amzn.to/2ZhKqWW
Shrink tubes - amzn.to/2WIQMwQ
#1 upgrade VIDEO - • Installing the M2C Cha...
NOT FOUND ON AMAZON
Alternative option for shock Standoffs from M2C (comes with Nuts) - m2cracing.net
2.25mm steel diff pins (You cut w/Dremel) - www.mcmaster.com/2900A239
Better Diff Gaskets V4 - [tekjo 1/8 scale diff gaskets on EBAY]
High End Dog bones - amzn.to/36gGIOJ
DIFF FLUIDS and LUBE
External Diff lube - amzn.to/2WGgYbo
Rear - 20k - amzn.to/36cYF0y
Center - (200k or 500k)
200k - amzn.to/2X6qCD2
500k - amzn.to/2WHyz2q
Front - 80K - amzn.to/3g4NKKI
DROOP SCREWS
Alt Droop Screws found at www.amainhobbies.com
Alt Droop Screws found at M2C - m2cracing.net
FIX YOUR STEERING - SERVO SAVOR MOD INFO
Servo Savor fix VIDEO - • ARRMA KRATON V4 V5 STE...
Snap Ring kit - amzn.to/2zPN0Zp
Quality Servo - amzn.to/2XaZDGA
Info about BEC VIDEO - • PART 2 - ARRMA STEERIN...
BEC - amzn.to/2AFnqXn
COOLING OPTIONS
NTF fans - Contact NTF Racing through Fb messenger
Fan/heat sink combo - amzn.to/2AEA8Wp
Stock ESC fan - amzn.to/2WWjPND
Heat Gun - amzn.to/36ec2gR
MISC TOOLS
Exacto knife - amzn.to/2TtHIK8
Dremel - amzn.to/2TkmDSh
Protek hex drivers (Drill Compatible) - www.ebay.com/p/1122416635
CLEANING/LUBING PRODUCTS
WD-40 - amzn.to/2LFjiJ9
Degreaser - amzn.to/36clykG
Cleaning out diff fluid - amzn.to/2Zlilhk
loctite Red - amzn.to/2TnBBa2
loctite Blue - amzn.to/2zTKt0c
BODY REINFORCEMENT TACTIC
Shoe Goo (need 2) - amzn.to/2LHxEsL
Fiber mesh - amzn.to/2AKfAMd
*If you've read this far... you're awesome!
Please consider supporting my channel through Patreon
For less then an energy drink per month, it would mean alot!!
/ easttactics
#EastTactics #ArrmaMods #ArrmaKraton #ARRMARC #RCCARS #RC - Розваги
Thanks for doing all these helpful videos lately! Not really anyone doing these types of videos
I appreciate the comment. Hope it saves some electronics out there. Looking forward to putting everything to the test now.💪💪💪
Amazing list you have compiled, you just got another subscriber 😎🇺🇸
Much appreciated! Hit me up if you ever have questions, always happy to help!👍😎💪
I love watching your videos they provide awesome tips and I just want you to know this is what I did I took the same material and and put a complete layer of it on the top of the chassis and used a sharpened piece of copper tubing to cut out all of the holes and doubled up I’d certain locations on the chassis it not only help eliminated vibration in the entire truck but it also eliminates a lot of sound the truck sounds so much quieter it’s like it’s in stealth mode all of the time I also took where the front and rear diffs mount and cut away around half the material and mounted the diffs to form a gasket like set up I have the full hot racing diff set up on all three diffs it made a huge difference in the whole truck when I run it at the track It actually looks like the truck runs smoother on top of handles hard landings much better
Bro!! That is legit, if you ever feel like filming an overview of the vehicle and then posting it as an unlisted/non public video on UA-cam, send me the link! Love to see that!
You sure have plenty of patience bro;
Let's see it all in action now!
💪💪💪💪
This weekend I hope! 💪💪💪😝
@@EastTactics bro we need a video about camber setup toe in etc how turnbuckles should be setup nothing online for mt rigs 🤔😉
Hey, that’s a great idea!!
I’ll get on that for sure.
I’ll created a camber and toe vid. Will be posting it soon. Thx for requesting it.😎💪
Hey ET! You have a recommended servo to replace the stock K6s RTR servo? I’d still be using the stock motor, etc but would like to upgrade motor down the road. So maybe a “future-proof” servo upgrade. Any input is always greatly appreciated!
That’s a great question, in fact I have a recent video on this.
ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
Thanks to your video I've been inspired to make some mods to my K4S...I've added the sorbothane under the receiver box, the servo, and have actually put some on the front T-Bone bumper part that connects to shock tower. I havent gotten to the rear bumper yet but will see if i can do something there too. Ohh one other thing...My ESC mount broke off just as yours did..I will be trying to do the dremel slit mod that u did...my question is...did you use the little basic washers that come with the basic screw kit, or did u use a thicker washer?. If so do you have to constantly change them out because they bend easily?...would gluing 2 of them together to increase their thickness help?
Hey brother!, That is absolutely awesome that you’re implementing does shock mitigation tactics, they are absolutely game changing and I have been very pleased with how well they’ve worked. Pretty cool you’re utilizing on the bumper as well. I still like the RPM bumper better than the T-bone, you may or may not have seen some of my videos comparing the two. I also have a recommendation mod that I highly recommend for both bumpers that involves some special countersunk washers. Be sure to consider it when you’re installing those bumpers.
Regarding your question on the slit mod. The thicker the metal washer you could get in there the better, if doubling up two thin washers works for you. do it.
Great questions! Thanks for watching my videos I really appreciate it.
@@EastTactics Yes...I watch the comparison vids you made on both RPM & T-Bone Bumpers...I been searching everywhere for an RPM Bumper to put in front and back for the kraton4S. I really don't think they have one for it. The one for the 6S line doesnt line up...the holes are different. If you know where I can get an RPM for the K4S line..I would greatly appreciate a link :). I've also watched your vid on the counter sunk washers...I have not ordered them as of yet because I've been using the method you were using before yuo found the countersunk ones which is just putting a washer and letting the screw countersink it in. But Yeah Dude...You've been amazing to watch...I made a comment on one of your other vids where I said that you should be widely recognized in this hobby as a leading influencer...keep up the Great work!
Thank you my friend, always great to hear such a nice complement.
Edit: No need to reply I read some of the comments, Cool video! What iam wondering is why replace the plastic servo mount in first place since it flexes so much from high jumping impact and saves your servo from granading? I know the aluminum steering mount is not that expensive but giving up some sharper steering to saving my servo in the long run seems better value , unless iam not just seeing the benefits, iam running a kraton 6s v4 I just put a 35kg servo in it since the stock one started crapping out , it lasted 6months of abuse.
That’s a great question about the plastic servo mount. The thing is you really want to minimize the side to side wobble (ideally 100% gone) the torque exerted into the servo, especially when the vehicle is on grass makes the plastic servo mount tweak quite a bit forward and backward. This actually takes away from your steering quite a bit, as well as puts a lot of unneeded (Not taking advantage of) pressure on the servo, Leading to premature burn out. So ideally you really want a solid mount so that 100% of the exertion from the servo gets transferred into the steering. Long story short that’s really the reason why you want to get a solid aluminum servo mount.
Another thing you might want to look at if you feel like your steering is still not performing quite to snuff is that your servo saver is not too loose. I have another video you may or may not have seen that addresses this issue by inserting some snap rings into the servo saver. Check it out perhaps. Search V4 servo savor fix.
Lastly you mentioned you picked up a higher in the servo. The question is...is it compatible with 7.4 V? If it is then technically you’re not taking full advantage of your more expensive servo because unfortunately the ESC in the stock V4, only outputs 6 V to anything. So if you wanna take advantage of the full power of a more expensive servo, you need to install a BEC and up the voltage in your system. Not sure if you’re aware of that but if you have more questions I can point you to another video.
Always happy to help my friend.
Wouldn't it be better to leave the plastic servo mount instead? The metal one seems to be a downgrade In this case. And the shock absorber makes it wobble again or not?
So the aluminum servo mounts are definitely an Upgrade, they provide the much needed stability and support for the servo. Without an upgraded servo mount you do get quite a bit of wobble which believe it or not does add strain overtime to your servo. Having a secure mount with minimal side to side wobble Is ideal,
The stock servo mount also does not have the height of your typical after market aluminum servo mount which means trying to add padding underneath it would further compound it’s wobbliness. And make it too wobbly
Now that all said, the most pivotal and in my opinion needed shock absorption that you can add to our servers is a pad that protects from the vertical downward impact imposed from the downward smack into the ground. The side to side wobble, as far as shock absorption it’s good to have but not quite as needed in the arena of preventing a break from shock trauma.
So I feel it is definitely a pivotal upgrade to add layers of protection underneath it such as I did in this video. Doing so to the stock servo mount would be a bit more difficult especially if you added three layers. Considering how low the stock servo mount sit.
Side to side wobble as you put it would be increased a lot more, which of course is not good.
That’s why you seen me make it a priority to not only reinstall the grommets, which play a good part in side to side wobble shock absorbtion (As well as vertical), But I took the time to actually provide material around the upper circumference of the servo (superglue tactic) to add another level of side to side support.
Additionally that’s why I decided to use the solid plastic spacer to lend more support to the connection.
That all said… Because I do have three layers of material between the top of the servo mount and the servo, I do see a slight bit of wobble recaptured.
But again I think the majority of the reason why people servos are breaking is less associated to slight wobble as it is associated to shock trauma from downward smacks into the ground.
I would also say that side to side wobble aside from adding a little bit of strain to the servo, has an impact on the performance of the power presented to the steering. Especially if you don’t have snap rings installed in your servo saver to tighten up your steering. Also only getting 6 V sent to the servo doesn’t help. That’s why installing an external BEC to the stock set up upgrades your servo to 7.4 V and further fights against, “lack of power“ being present it to your steering.
Sorry for such a long answer. I hope I answered your questions. I will definitely keep an eye on the performance of my set up since I have introduced a little bit of wobble, not a lot, back into my system. But.. a hell of a lot of shock absorption LOL💪💪😎😝
@@EastTactics thank you dude, that was so informative. No problem about the length of your answer, it's very nice from you to respond so detailed and explain this whole situation on the servo to me. Thank you!
Lol! I just commented on this same thing , it seems why put such a rigid piece of aluminum for steering when the stock plastic gives when you bash or hit something hard like a curb or jumping it high.
Nice 👌 im subscribed💯🔥
Sweet! 👍thx for the sub!
@@EastTactics 4sure....u share lot's of info👍hey when I buy a new controller how do i sync it to my kraton 6s.....beings tho it's not the original controller🤔
The Controller should always come with a receiver. If you ever buy a controller without a compatible receiver then it’s likely you just know that the current receiver you have works with that controller also. But again 99% of the time when you buy a controller it comes with its own little mini receiver. Check out the link in my description titled Arrma Kraton V4 parts.
Some good suggestions there for a range of controllers. But there are so many out there and pretty much all of them are better than the stock tactic STX2.
@@EastTactics 😎.....thanx bro👍
Man I regret not doing this now lol. But I got some silicone dampers for fpv drone flight controllers that I'm gonna give a try or something. I'm not gonna risk a 100+$ servo this time lol still haven't decided which one yet though. Either the raw 500 and someone recommend the protek 370tbl. Or there's a brushless savox Option too. But I figured I'd need atleast 400+ on the torque
Here’s the servo I’ve fallen in love with
ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
Servo
amzn.to/3KNTnfs
@@EastTactics it's crazy how much alike That's it to the protek servo. I was just comparing a bunch of em working at the hobbyshop today. But I get a discount there so it's hard to buy anywhere other than horizon hobby and amain. But I bet that they have that one. I'm gonna have to look into it. It looks amazing. And extremely strong.
Owch
Didnt it make your steering kinda slopy? thats defeating the purpose of the upgraded metal servo mount.
You’re right in that trying to take advantage of shock mitigation for your servo does potentially leave it vulnerable to back-and-forth slop… however there is a way to take advantage of both a solid mount and shock resistance.
The final result,My steering is rock solid doesn’t budge left or right one iota. But as far is up and down (Particularly down) imposed from chassis slap, it has cushion.
Details here.
ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
@@EastTactics cool ya its still a great Idea for slapping your chassis on cement. Any chance you using a good servo on the kraton let me know what you use im trying to find a new one for my kraton right now cause the old one got worn out?
That black one in the video above I’ve been very impressed with. It’s a touch more expensive, but crazy strong. I believe there’s a link in the description for it