Thanks for increasing my confidence..scratching my head why this awesome car doesnt have adjustable servo saver. Update...it made the install so quick and easy. I used 10 mm E-clips..not the C clips u use. Theres still enough clearance for these to work. The od of the clip is bigger, but i think it supports the existing washer with more clip material (the profile of the clip has more meat). All i did was remove the plastic side skirt..theres like 4 very accessible screws from under the car. Removing that one peice of plastic gave me enough accessibility to install 2- 10mm stacked E-clips.
Just made this modification today, world of difference. Thanks for the video. I was able to get the 1/2” snap rings using a $4.00 set of pliers from the hardware store. New servo, a few bearings and a couple snap rings, completely changed the vehicle.
Just took my outcast 6s exb out for the first time a couple days ago and was horrified by the steering on it. Turning circle was the size of the field i was in😂. Found your steering series and love how you break it down and show results. Picked up some snap rings (they call the circlips in the uk) and will be ordering a new servo on your advice. Keep up the good work.
Wow I've never seen such a comprehensive list of mods listed in any video from anyone yet. Outstanding. Well done sir...very well done. Basically the start of a wiki.
Finally a video on adjusting the new servo saver! I found my Notorious has been lacking steering in corners and the steering sways a lot and rubs the body when doing backflips. I would have preferred the old servo saver design I hate not having the adjustability... this was super helpful. Thanks man 👌👌
Same with my notorious. Try taking out the bushings and put in bearings that go on the shaft with the saver and it will help and last longer. Yes in diagrams it shows a # and a bearing, but they put plastic bushings in instead. It will eventually grind down the bushing being plastic. Hope it helps.
Also all these manufacturers forget one simple small piece that even on the diagram shows it's in the vehicle but not. The bearings at the bottom of the servo saver instead of plastic bushings. So now I change mine. Have 2 brands and just picked up my kraton 6s v5. 3rd and last Arrma. I started back to the hobby with a Traxxas rustler 4x4 xl-5 and upgraded things myself to get to know the vehicle. I started noticing my steering wasn't as good as it was. So thinking servo, upgraded, servo saver rebuild and noticed white powder from the bottom of it. In the manual it showed part and # in diagram so I look it up and there are bearings that go there. So I believe this is why people always go for a new servo first. Just putting the bearings in will get you better response and longer life out of original servo and cost maybe $5 tops. May help aswell. When your saver was out I saw the white bushings. And I think that the Product maker knows that's the first to be replaced. And ad much $ we pay for these and they cant put the smallest bearing for your steering in??? Cmon now. 🤔🤣🤣
Yeah I know right, I was surprised they had those metal bushings in there too when I took mine apart. Changed mine over to the bearings and have been good Sense. I never have been impressed with the power of the steering from the V4 electronics. Hoping 7.4 V makes a big difference. Dropping a video on that soon
@@Bustedkuhnuckles The steering assembly has two main rods that mount to the chassis. This incorporates the servo saver itself. At the top and bottom of both of these mount points Artma puts metal bushings. It is recommended to replace these metal bushings with actual bearings. At some point in the video it does show and talk about this.
Thanks bro .... perfect remedy my Noto was terrible after a couple runs and a change of wheels ... I changed the servo still nothing ... I put the clips in I think I put 3 and it’s steering amazing.... 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
My Kraton turns again! Ty so much😁 Turns out my pillow balls were causing the majority of the binding, she's now better than factory on stock servo. Highly recommend this mod🤩
Not particularly, the issue specifically address a poor design with the V4/V5 6s Kraton. However… That said, I am unclear, if the same design flaw exists in the 4s V2. I would suggest going to Arma‘s website, scroll down to the bottom look under your user manuals. Pull up the exploded view for both the 6s and the 4s Kraton and look for similarities in the servo saver. I mean, if you feel like you’re experiencing poor steering and it has similar design, I see no reason why you wouldn’t incorporate the same tactic into the 4s if it is compatible.
@@EastTactics yea the steering is way to weak. I'm pretty new to it but would love to put in a stronger servo. On the forum they said I could use an Amazon 25kg servo but I have no clue how to do it. I haven't even been able to get my tires ims off yet. I don't know how to do it? I tried to use the wrench that goes around the hex nut that came with the truck but it doesn't seem to want to budge do you know if there's something else I have to do first before trying to take off the big 17 mm nut?
There’s nothing to do before that, it should come right off. But if it’s been a while, it could be tough. Instead of using the stock tool, you might consider using a socket wrench, or even better a drill. Even better a hammer drill if you’re familiar with one of those. The stock tool is definitely not the best. Especially again, if it’s been a while since they’ve been removed. Buying and installing a better servo, could potentially saw your problems as well. Being new to the hobby is OK especially when you’ve got plenty of good videos out there, showing you exactly what to do. You’ll get better at it you just gotta dive in. The hobby grade RCS are meant to be wrenched on and upgraded. Feel free to hit me up with any questions. I’m always happy to help.
@@EastTactics it's awesome that u reply to basically everyone. Ur 1 out of maybe 2 or 3 others at most that always reply! It's huge. I know newbies love when ppl with channels and experience answer. It's deff the road to success for a yt channel. And wow I kinda thought the black screw in the middle of the red hex might have to be loosened first or something. I guess I'll try my little hammer impact tommorow and hope it pops off. My wheels sure feel loose and way sloppier than when I got it a month ago
There is a servo saver extra heavy spring option for high torque servos on arrma’s website that should tighten up the servo saver without trying to shim it. I watched a video of someone using a vise grip to compress the spring so he could get a wrench onto the hex usually covered by the plastic saver.
Interesting, ya back during the time I made this vid Arrma was over red LOCKTITE’ing the servo savor making it a nightmare to get it open. They sinces eased up on that. I still feel the snap ring instal is an easy option to tightening it.
thanks the the video, just a heads up though. the kraton v4 i bought (Nov 2020) i was able to remove the saver using a socket wrench and a pair of channel locks to hold the end that is recessed in the plastic. It broke free with little force and didnt ever mar the plastic i was holding with the channels locks. I was then able to put in a proper spacer. I printed a few spaces from my 3d printer to get rid of some slop.
Hi. Nice video! I also have problems with standard metal rings in bell cranks and I want to change them for bearings. What is the type of those 4 bearings (yellow in your video)? Are they plain or ball or roller or needle ones?
My god man this was my exact issue when I tried to change my steering servo. Off the ground it would whip my wheels left and right but in the ground it felt weak like I installed something wrong. Thank you so much I ordered the parts you recommend I’ll get them tmr Thru Amazon I’m planning on taking my Kraton to the beach this week and rest out my paddle tires. I’ll let you know how it turns out !
Hey, appreciate it man, glad you found this…. It’s actually one of my older videos and I’ve got a more recent in-depth video regarding steering here. Snap rings are definitely a legitimate help though. ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
Dude …. The smile on my face when I tested it out. Huuuuge difference. And just in time. Tomorrow I’m headed to the beach to rip up the sand with my paddle tires. Much thanks. You’re a genius
It will help, that’s for sure. Likely get it back to straight as well. When at a stand still friction from the ground can resist a weak or loose servo, while the vehicle is moving however it has a much easier time to get you back to neutral. Watch this video for even more in depth look at maximizing steering ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.htmlsi=nl-j_-RBuVtVJ0JN
@@EastTactics thank you very much. I’ll definitely subscribe now after seeing those details that you put into this video. There are so many UA-cam videos that are just irritating to watch because of the amateur level.
My fireteam steering is decent, definitely not as bad as what you showed here, but I still want to upgrade it. Thinking of doing either this or getting the basher queen servo saver and steering items and hopefully be done with that part of it. I just wonder how much extra stain this puts on the servo and how it might affect its lifespan?
It does put more work on the servo, def make sure your servo endpoints are set right. Any servo is better then the stock servo. But you know the one recommend. Thanks for watching my content. Watch this one for a ton of good info ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
@@EastTactics I always watch your videos. Definitely some of the most informative out there bar none. Also I have set my end points. Whether or not I’ve done them correctly is another matter. I try to err on the side of caution but I feel like my steering may lack a little because of it.
its the 9/16 circlip. You can find a link in the description to the kit that has a bunch of them. if you need the exact mm dimensions of both inner and outer. let me know... When I get home from work today, I'll take my calipers and measure for ya.
@@EastTactics thank you! I would put to my kraton v5, but i'd Like to know exactly which circlip to take. Now I have 14mm inner diameter, if should it be necessary other diameter let me know. Grazie!
yes... its 6x10x3 See any of my video descriptions... look for link called "master link" or "Arrma V4 V5 parts" in that list you will find bearing kits
Awesome brother! Glad I could help. I do consider this video here to be my mother of all videos when it comes to student. So if you haven’t seen this. Make sure you check it out ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
Do you recommend doing this (upgrading to hot racing servo saver, shimming, linkage bearings, and aluminum mount) on the V5 Kraton as well? I was told my servo is dead so I figured I’d upgrade while at it. Appreciate any help.
Yes, if you plan on changing out your servo saver completely to the hot racing you may not have to worry about doing the shimming if by chance it’s adjustable. However if you want to stick with the stock servo savor than I would recommend putting two or three shims/snap rings in it. Either way you’re going to want to get rid of the metal bushings and replace those with bearings. I absolutely recommend getting aluminum servo mount, And completely getting rid of the stock servo and picking up a high-powered servo. Watch this video for the details regarding that. ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
No worries, glad to help. I’m not 100% sure if the hot racing servo saver comes with the bearings, I would take a close look at the description of the purchase to see. If it doesn’t then You would want to pick up those four bearings. I believe in the video link above it gives you the exact dimensions if you want to just buy those by themselves. As far The stock servo saver goes, I’m pretty sure even with the V5 that they put metal bushings in there so you want to upgrade those. You’ll find out when you get it apart
I’m not sure….how do you feel your steering is? One test I like to do to test both my servo saver as well as the strength of my servo, is “the upper hinge pin butt stop test” Basically you’re Servo should be strong enough (with relation to a fairly tight servo saver) to push the servo arm all the way up against the little notch that is shaved off in your upper hinge pin brace even if you are literally holding your tires preventing them from turning. When you hold those tires and then crank on your steering, your servo saver should tweak open and your servo should be strong enough to push it all the way up against the butt stop. Now technically this is not a test so much for your servo savor as it is for your servo. Because if you have a super loose servo saver than your servo is going to be able to do this just fine right. However the key is that after having a properly tightened servo saver, your servo is still strong enough to crank that a full range of motion. My guess is that adding a snap ring into the EXB would not hurt. And is likely needed, maybe two snap rings. I actually went in and added a third snap ring in my V4. Watch this video to get a visual reputation of a lot of what I’m talking about ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
Nice, thanks for sharing this info! 👍 I just got my Typhon 6S this week & just noticed that the stock servo lacks power & doesn't re-center correctly when I let go of the controller steering knob after turning to the left. It re-centers correctly after turning to the right however. There also seems to be a lot of play on the servo bracket while turning, the plastic bracket begins to twist. I'm hoping that the HR aluminum servo bracket will fix that. And I guess I will need a stronger servo as well. Thanks again for posting this great vid! 👍
RC Bustanut, my pleasure, If there’s ever anything you need just drop a post in one of my videos and I’ll be quick to help. The 6s Typhon is an animal!!
I take it that you were running the old version servo saver correct? The kind with the ability to come up through a hole in the bottom of the chassis and tighten it?. If that’s the case the first thought You might consider if it keeps getting loose on you is simply replacing it with the newer version in the V4. And then snap ring it up. Another thought would be to simply install the snap rings into your servo savor which I believe in essence would simply do away with the loosening and tightening function and sort of force it to be tighter. But I could be wrong.
I believe so yes. It could very well suffer from the same issues. My guess is if the steering is abnormally weak, take a close look at the servo saver when steering (at a standstill on concrete) and see if it is flexing open a lot.
It would act as a shim yes, but I never thought a shim was necessary there? Is there a reason why you feel like you need to shim that? If not then just go with your classic 6X 10 X3 bearings.
Great video.... Very informative... Been looking for exactly this topic. Changed my user from Dennis Scott and started a channel... All you guys inspired me. More family stuff... We will see Appreciate you
I guess its different with some. Kraton cause my 4S kratons steering is fine but didn't know about loctite on SERVO put loctite on my slipper Clutch blue medium strength
Edwin Cordero RC You know… I do have footage that I could put together to show the difference. Tell you what, I’ll drop a short video On the visual difference. Keep a lookout
Oh yeah! The only reason why snap rings are used because it can be a beast to get that thing taken apart. But if you can get it apart without damaging it. Then you can use any thing
Hey man nice video. So if it's never loose then why is mine loose? Mine is moving around it's weird I Wonder if they will just send me another steering block.
Yeah, I would assume this issue stems over into all of the V4 vehicles. Are you experiencing more than just “weak steering”? This particular issue that’s common with the V4 has more to do with the fact that it’s Loctite together so it’s really difficult to get in there to actually apply more pressure to the spring. In doing so it tightens up the servo saver and sends some more response to the steering rack, as opposed to being too loose (Yet really hard to get into). By going in and adding some spacers below the spring it in essence tightens up the servo saver. So if you’re simply experiencing poor steering then this tactic could be your solution. However if your steering system is broken/snapped or something more serious than just “weak” Because the servo saver is taking too much of the torque away from the system. Then you might have a reason to approach Arrma with Warranty claim.
@@EastTactics Hi east tactics. Thank you for that great reply. I was holding down one of the tires and yes the servo horn moves but all the torque get eating up by the servo saver. I make a small video later to show you. Yeh that would be the fix for me to tighten up the saver with those washers spacer's. I contact arrma too maybe I get can a new one from them because this shouldn't happen With only 20 or so packs throw my truck.
Hey brother. I'm uploading a video now so please check it out let me know if I have to put in those retaining clips to make the saver more tight thanks. When I put some pressure on the right tire you can see the servo saver open up a little bit that's probably normal but it being loose like that is not.
I added this information to the description Snap ring kit (you need 9/16) amzn.to/3bBDDM8 Bearings kit (includes servo savor bearings) amzn.to/2Xdi7Gg Avid bearing kit www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=1507&kitname=Kraton
Correct... I noticed the item had somehow fallen off my master list link (found in the description of the vid) I added the kit back to the list (list name “‘Arrma V4 Kraton Parts” Hope that helps.
Set the vehicle down on concrete or payment. Take a really close look at the servo itself when you’re turning it. Is your servo turning full range? Make sure your remote setting/turn rate knob On the controller is turned up. If your servo is functioning properly take a really close look at the servo saver which is a funky looking plastic contraption that is compressed together, if while you’re turning the servo you see that thing opening up ALOT...Then most likely your servo saver is the issue. If it’s not opening up that much at all and you see it turning, you might have something wrong with your steering rack assembly. The Ackerman bar might be broken or severely bent or your steering turnbuckles could be loose or disconnected. Do that assessment and get back to me and let me know what you find.
@@EastTactics ok so I bought a new servo thinking that was the problem an it wasn't unfortunately lol, so I upgraded all my servo savor stuff to HR added 2 snap rings and tightened up the servo saver, and it turns decent to the right but turning left not so much, it has me stumped big time tbh I can't figure this out at all
Did you make sure that when you attached your servo Horn to your server that you allow the servo to center itself? This happens automatically the second you provide power to the servo, but you want to make sure that you have not attached the servo horn yet. Your issue might be due to this. That’s my first thought. My next that Hass to do more so with the pillow balls and your hubby nuts. Have you perhaps tightened them too tight on the left side which is preventing smooth action?
@@EastTactics I'm pretty sure I did let the servo recenter itself but I could be wrong ill try that out in the morning, I did check the the pillow balls and hubby nuts they are good not to tight but also not to loose with a lil bit of play in both sides
Bennett 799, Honestly I probably wouldn’t go with what I said then. I was just shooting in the dark with a conversion calculator. I’m not very familiar with converting metrics. Any reason why you can’t buy a box and snap rings from the states with 9/16 in it. I apologize for not being more helpful
Now how's the plastic servo mount holding up with the tighter steering rack? I'm of the religion that aluminum servo saver and rack are the only answer here 🤣
Hey Kyle thanks for commenting. I’m not sure I understand the question though. I have a aluminum servo mount here. And I would agree they’re the only way to go. The stock composite had to go right away. As far as the plastic servo saver itself. Never had any problems with it. It’s done the job. I mean it wouldn’t hurt to upgrade the servo saver itself to aluminum I suppose, do you use the hot racing servo saver?
Hey Jason, thanks for subbing! The servo saver in the arrma Kraton 4s, Is completely different. This is just a shot in the dark, but check out this video. Are you perhaps having this issue? ua-cam.com/video/n0VC4oMpIcM/v-deo.html
@@EastTactics hmm.. Actually I was asking what the metric equivalent (or a similar one that will fit) is. I am in Europe so shipping from US is quite expensive. Thanks for your help though! 👍😉
Hey man, I just have a few questions. First of all, my steering was barely working just like that video that you showed, then after a few runs my servo stoped working all together. No problem, as Horizon is sending me a new servo. So anyways I go to turn my front wheels right and left, and jeez it was a lot harder to turn then they are normally. Like I had to actually try to turn them for it to turn. So my question is, how do I fix this? And also, do you think this is what caused the servo to die?
Marvin Mikha, It very well could be why the servo died, it sounds to me like your hub nuts might be too tight, check out this video to make sure that is not the issue first. ua-cam.com/video/MtCNn-Qc-Dc/v-deo.html If that’s not the issue you might check to see if you over tightened the screw that locks down your servo savor itself. If it’s over tightened, it can bind up your steering as well. Let me know what you find. 😎👍👊
Jeez I completely forgot to tell you what happened man, sorry about that! So anyway, the steering got a little better after I did the things in the video that you linked, so thanks for that, and also I tightened up the servo saver and it also got a bit better but still not as good as I’ve seen it in some videos of the kraton.
Yeah, unfortunately the stock setup only outputs 6v to the servo. And the stock Servo is only capable of handling about that much. However higher end servos have the capability of taking 7.4 V however our stock ESC does not output that high-voltage. So to really crank up the power in your steering you either need to buy a higher and ESC combined with a higher end servo. Or... Pick up a higher end servo and install an external BEC in your rig. I’m actually going to be dropping a video in the next little while where I install an external BEC and document the difference of power to the steering
No issues to date... it’s just tightening the servo savor, by no means is it doing away with its function. Great question 👍🏻👍🏻 If in the future I do break it, repair and break again, I would for sure remove one of the snap rings. But this mod has been great since completed.
More than likely it’s your servo. However there’s a few things that could’ve happened. Make sure your controllers steering threshold (dial) didn’t mistakenly get turned all the way down. If that’s not the issue you might consider doing a factory reset on your ESC. Are you hearing anything when you turn the steering? A buzzing noise or clicking or anything?
@@EastTactics i have the factory spectrum controller that came with the kraton v4. The dials are at the same setting as when the steering was working. I hear nothing when turning the steering...only the fan is on
Yeah for the most part your server probably just went out on you. The stock service isn’t the greatest quality. When you pick up a new servo consider these tactics in this video ua-cam.com/video/Gf77pUtEdzI/v-deo.html Also first chance you get I would suggest picking up a better controller. The spectrum is no Bueno
From what I understand yes it should work. There was no talk about Arrma changing the steering system that exists in the V4 to something different in the V5, or the EXB for that matter. They may have listened and used less Loctite securing the servo saver together, so it might be possible to actually take it apart with a little bit more ease. However I still think it’s simpler just to throw in a couple of snap rings.
@@EastTactics ok before I do this, I've ordered hr servo holder and the hr drive hubs from amain hobbies should be here in 2 weeks in UK, (could not find them in UK) as I think part of the problem is the plastic hubs, and the flex in the servo holder
Getting the servo mount upgrade does help a bit. And it’s a highly recommended upgrade anyway. Regarding the hub knuckles upgrade to hot racing, typically those do not cause any hindrance in your steering unless you’ve over tightened your hub nuts. However upgrading those to the hot racing aluminum is again a highly recommended upgrade. They are great!. But for sure once you’ve got those installed if it resolves your problem you should be good to go. Otherwise you can look at the servo saver tactic as a back up.
@@EastTactics the screws that go in the hubs are cross threaded on the plastic so I think the miss aline is part of it, thanks for your uploads only been here a while and watched most of your videos great tips 👍😀
There’s definitely things that gotta be set right, or improved from factory. This hobby is all about wrenching, bashing, fixing, taking it a step farther. And continuing to improve your rig over time. Watch this video for a more recent and thorough all in one solution on your steering. I’m happy to assist you any time. Ever have a question just know you have me in your corner. ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
@@EastTactics thanks! I wrench for a living so sometimes I just wanna go home and bash, not wrench lol. Also wrenching is way more fun when it's for an upgrade, sucks for a repair. I try to upgrade when I repair though. I finally broke out the tools and parts last night to fix my kraton, got it turning better while driving but still can't turn for crap when stationary, Ill check out that vid after work and see what else I can try.
@@EastTactics Also sucks when brand new stuff keeps breaking! My senton 3s came with a bad reciever/radio (kept cutting out) and the servo died the 3rd day I had it. Got this kraton and a screw on the rear suspension vanished first week, then this steering issue started like a week later. All in all I've had it 3 months or so, its been running maybe 2 weeks outta that time. Armma needs some quality control! Now I know next time get the exb model and add my own electronics, spektrum hasn't been good to me...my new base camp the esc and receiver went out first week, almost caught fire, too.
Many that’s crazy, sorry for the bad run of luck. Hopefully I’ve been helpful and progressing ya toward issue free bash sessions. Let me know if you have any questions, anytime!
Daniel Konrad, LOL that’s a great question, i’m digging into my video vault, one of the first videos I created so forgive me if it’s a little bit goofy. But this is still the same tactic I used to this day to keep her Supa clean. ua-cam.com/video/zDYB1_dUGoE/v-deo.html
Troy Flanagan, who’s complaining? The manufacturer, Arrma puts out a quality product whose toughness to price ratio is 1000 times stronger than $100 Walmart RC car. What’s amazing about this hobby and these high-end platforms is there is a ton of third-party support, support were a lot of research and development has gone In to make an amazing product even more amazing. There’s nothing to complain about here.
Your just seeing what i READ ON u Tube MAKES ME A LITTLE BIT NERVOUS Reading Some Negative REVIEWS i had a Ruckus. 4x4 Rc Truck WITH a BRUSH MOTOR at first MOTOR BLEW UP ON ME THEN I BOUGHT A BRUSHLESS MOTOR FOR IT AND A COOLING FANS NO MORE BLOWN MOTOR BUT THEN THEN OTHER PROBLEMS STARTED ARISING AND I BABY THE TRUCK LIKE CRAZY LIKE CLEANING IT SPRAYING THE SHOCKS. AND INSIDE OF WHEELS WITH DW40 AND PUT $300 IN UPGRADES INTO IT STILL PROBLEMS ARose WITH THE TRUCK AND i Didn't Even DRIVE IT THAT HARD MOSTLY ON BASEBALL DIAMONDS AND PARK SHORT GRASS ENGINE GETS EXEMELY HOT ON BOTH TRUCKS SOLD THE RUCKUS TRUCK FOR $50 Dollars it WAS just Costing ME TO much money TO maintain SO I SOLD IT I HOPE THAT DOES NOT HAPPEN WITH THE 4S KRATON THATS ALL I'M SAYING PEACE OUT MY RC BROTHERS AND SISTERS AND STAY SAFE.
actually its not hard at all to get the servo saver apart just grip it with a vice or pair of pliers and put a socket on the end and it comes right apart. added a washer from a spare steering rack i had and it tightened right up.
Nice! Yeah the newer versions, even the newer versions of the before armor cut on that they were putting too much Loctite in. So it’s only the early production of the before where that’s a big issue. But yeah I’m really glad they made it a lot easier
@@EastTactics It runs fine with my powerhobby 729bl its just you can hold the wheels and the servo saver wont fight you too hard, but it turns ok in grass so ill live with it until i feel like putting in another shim.
isnt that the point of the servo saver and to "save the servo" i get the reasoning why you did it totally. but typically the car is always moving. its for that split second re positioning backing up and re directing the truck.
For many, the servo savor is just too loose out of the box. Adding the snap rings (tightening it) doesn’t eliminate the servo savors functionality, it’s still definitely “saving” the servo from snapping/breaking like a completely tight or locked system would do. Your right, the car is always moving, but now, after doing this mod, when the car is moving it turns MUCH sharper and is WAY more responsive then it was before. I could tell the difference immediately, and my servo is working fine to this day. If your tires (when sitting on flat concrete) are not turning all the way right and all the way left (and fairly quickly) And you see the servo savor itself (when looking close) twisting dramatically... then your servo savor is too loose. If the savor is not twisting dramatically and the arm on the servo is not moving much, then you likely have a defective or too weak servo. Hope that helps :)
@@EastTactics gotcha, i upgraded my servo to the same savox you mentioned, maybe ill try the snap rings in the future but for now im happy with it, did you upgrade the your radio? i just ordered a Sanwa MT-S. I did upgrade the 2 front and rear plastic tower braces as well, and servo mount all hot racing. the radio that comes with the kraton v4 is a joke
M B, That’s awesome! You’ve definitely made some smart upgrades. I dropped the spectrum like a bad habit. And picked up the tactic. Make sure you check out my video on beefing up your shock Rod ends. Those Were among the first things to go for me. But once upgraded they’ve been solid since. Look forward to Being a part of your journey. Love this hobby! What’s crazy is after installing the M2C Chassis I started getting more and more crazy with my jumps. Soon you’ll start seeing Aluminum Suspension mounts are your new best friends.
watching you struggle with a snap ring is hilarious... you could just go to the hardware store and buy a $10 pair of snap ring pliers XD or cheaper if you can find them in the $5 bargain bin..
Yes for sure, I have them now lol So this video here is a must watch if you find the information in this video valuable. ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
I WILL FORSURE I WAS RUNNING IT AT A 100PERCENT WHEN I HAD IT RUNNING. AND BEFORE THE MOTOR MELTED THE SLIPPER CLUCK IF THAT'S THE PROBLEMS FORSURE THE OWNER SAID OVER THE PHONE YESTERDAY HE HAS TO DIG DEEPER INSIDE THE ENGINE TO SEE HOW BAD IT IS HOPEFULLY NOT THAT BAD I'M GOING TOO BUY BACK UP BATTERY AND WHEN I GET TRUCK BACK DRIVE IT AT 50 TO 75 PERCENT AND LOOK EVERYTHING OVER AND TRY AND FIGURE THIS OUT SO IT DOES NOT HOPEFULLY HAPPEN AGAIN HE SAID OWNER I MEAN HOW TO FIX SLIPPER CLUCK I GUESS HE MEANS TAKE IT OUT AND PUT BACK IN TO CLEAN DON'T KNOW IF THAT'S MAKING ANY SENSE JUST GOING BY WHAT HES EXPLAINED TO ME YESTERDAY OVER THE PHONE IF I WERE ALLOWED IN HIS SHOP I WOULD HAVE A WAY BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF TRUCK AND THE COMPONENTS ON IT BUT WITH ALL THIS COVID VIRUS IT MAKES THINGS VERY HARD YES I HAVE READ OVER DIRECTIONS OVER AND OVER BUT SOMETIMES YOU NEED PEOPLE TO SHOW THAT ARE VERY EXPRENICE AT TECHNOLOGY WITH RC CARS AND TRUCKS NOT JUST HAND U THE BOX AND SAY READ THE DIRECTIONS AND WHEN I FIRST PURCHASED THE TRUCK. THE XT90 WIRE WAS NOT IN THE TRUCK SO I HAD TO GO BACK CAUSE I COULD NOT CHARGE TRUCK AT ALL THEN HAD TO GO BACK AGAIN CAUSE FRONT LEFT WHEEL FELL OFF THEY FORGOT TO PUT FRONT WASHERS ON WHEELS FRONT AND BACK WHEELS $925 DOLLARS LATER NOW A BACK UP BATTERY AND HEAT GUN IF HE SELLS HEAT GUNS?
U TUBE Complaints from some KRATON 4s KRATON Customers about RADIO TRANSMITTER Stxs THE. SERVO THE BEARINGS ETC ETC. THE STEERING THE SHOCKS MAYBE IM BEING OVERWELMED WITH THE CONSIDERING AFTER ONLY 5 DAYS MY BLX HOT MOTOR BLEW STARTED SMOKING AT THE BACK OF MOTOR MY HOLE SYSTEM IS SPECTRUM RADIO TRANSMITTER BATTERY AND CHARGER S2100 BATTERY 5000MAH 14.8. 7.4 RADIO TRANSMITTER STX THAT'S WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT AND BRUSHLESS MOTOR WITH 2 FANS 1 IN THE BACK AND 1 IN THE FRONT TO BOOT AND MY MOTOR BLOWS UP SMOKING I'M LUCKY ITS UNDER WARRANTY $925 Dollars Later!!
Troy Flanagan, Well that makes a little more sense. Now I can see why you have issue. I’d be pretty jaded to if that soon out of the gate that many things broke. I’ve had mine for over half a year now and I’m still running the stock motor in stock ESC. I’m really glad that your issues are being covered by warranty. If there’s anything I could do to help with your fixed rig let me know I’d be happy to.
@@EastTactics DO you GUYS HAVE ARMA KRATON 4S TRUCKS WITH SPECTRUM SYSTEMS I MEAN RADIO TRANSMITTER STX S2100 CHARGER BLX HOT MOTOR AND 5000MAH 14.8 7.4 LIPO BATTERY PACK 50C?
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for increasing my confidence..scratching my head why this awesome car doesnt have adjustable servo saver. Update...it made the install so quick and easy. I used 10 mm E-clips..not the C clips u use. Theres still enough clearance for these to work. The od of the clip is bigger, but i think it supports the existing washer with more clip material (the profile of the clip has more meat). All i did was remove the plastic side skirt..theres like 4 very accessible screws from under the car. Removing that one peice of plastic gave me enough accessibility to install 2- 10mm stacked E-clips.
Nice!!!
Well played🤜🤛
This video saved me tons of headaches and lots of cash. Your idea worked like a charm. Thank you!!!
Just made this modification today, world of difference. Thanks for the video. I was able to get the 1/2” snap rings using a $4.00 set of pliers from the hardware store. New servo, a few bearings and a couple snap rings, completely changed the vehicle.
Is 1/2” a better fit for the setup?
Just took my outcast 6s exb out for the first time a couple days ago and was horrified by the steering on it. Turning circle was the size of the field i was in😂. Found your steering series and love how you break it down and show results. Picked up some snap rings (they call the circlips in the uk) and will be ordering a new servo on your advice. Keep up the good work.
Very nice! Glad I was helpful💪
Wow I've never seen such a comprehensive list of mods listed in any video from anyone yet. Outstanding. Well done sir...very well done. Basically the start of a wiki.
Blutors, thanks!!
Love your videos.. I have literally hit poles at full speed and shredded parts. Makes me smile to see someone else do it also.
Thank You
Finally a video on adjusting the new servo saver! I found my Notorious has been lacking steering in corners and the steering sways a lot and rubs the body when doing backflips. I would have preferred the old servo saver design I hate not having the adjustability... this was super helpful. Thanks man 👌👌
Same with my notorious. Try taking out the bushings and put in bearings that go on the shaft with the saver and it will help and last longer. Yes in diagrams it shows a # and a bearing, but they put plastic bushings in instead. It will eventually grind down the bushing being plastic. Hope it helps.
Cheers me bro needed this fix!!! my kraton hardly can steer and I just put a £155 hitek servo in it thinking that would fix it
Also all these manufacturers forget one simple small piece that even on the diagram shows it's in the vehicle but not. The bearings at the bottom of the servo saver instead of plastic bushings. So now I change mine. Have 2 brands and just picked up my kraton 6s v5. 3rd and last Arrma. I started back to the hobby with a Traxxas rustler 4x4 xl-5 and upgraded things myself to get to know the vehicle. I started noticing my steering wasn't as good as it was. So thinking servo, upgraded, servo saver rebuild and noticed white powder from the bottom of it. In the manual it showed part and # in diagram so I look it up and there are bearings that go there. So I believe this is why people always go for a new servo first. Just putting the bearings in will get you better response and longer life out of original servo and cost maybe $5 tops. May help aswell. When your saver was out I saw the white bushings. And I think that the Product maker knows that's the first to be replaced. And ad much $ we pay for these and they cant put the smallest bearing for your steering in??? Cmon now. 🤔🤣🤣
Yeah I know right, I was surprised they had those metal bushings in there too when I took mine apart. Changed mine over to the bearings and have been good Sense. I never have been impressed with the power of the steering from the V4 electronics.
Hoping 7.4 V makes a big difference. Dropping a video on that soon
Where do the bearings go?
@@Bustedkuhnuckles The steering assembly has two main rods that mount to the chassis. This incorporates the servo saver itself. At the top and bottom of both of these mount points Artma puts metal bushings. It is recommended to replace these metal bushings with actual bearings. At some point in the video it does show and talk about this.
Great share. Thanks. How about Arrma Notorious V5, is it already bearing installed on the steering hub and nett put a rings?
No, I’m pretty sure even the V5 has bushings
@@EastTactics allright noted thanks
Thanks bro .... perfect remedy my Noto was terrible after a couple runs and a change of wheels ... I changed the servo still nothing ... I put the clips in I think I put 3 and it’s steering amazing.... 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
Fantastic. Love to hear it!!
I am gonna try this soon to my v5 kraton, it's the same way
My Kraton turns again! Ty so much😁
Turns out my pillow balls were causing the majority of the binding, she's now better than factory on stock servo.
Highly recommend this mod🤩
Is this suggested for the Creighton 4S V2?
Not particularly, the issue specifically address a poor design with the V4/V5 6s Kraton.
However… That said, I am unclear, if the same design flaw exists in the 4s V2.
I would suggest going to Arma‘s website, scroll down to the bottom look under your user manuals. Pull up the exploded view for both the 6s and the 4s Kraton and look for similarities in the servo saver.
I mean, if you feel like you’re experiencing poor steering and it has similar design, I see no reason why you wouldn’t incorporate the same tactic into the 4s if it is compatible.
@@EastTactics yea the steering is way to weak. I'm pretty new to it but would love to put in a stronger servo. On the forum they said I could use an Amazon 25kg servo but I have no clue how to do it. I haven't even been able to get my tires
ims off yet. I don't know how to do it? I tried to use the wrench that goes around the hex nut that came with the truck but it doesn't seem to want to budge do you know if there's something else I have to do first before trying to take off the big 17 mm nut?
There’s nothing to do before that, it should come right off. But if it’s been a while, it could be tough. Instead of using the stock tool, you might consider using a socket wrench, or even better a drill. Even better a hammer drill if you’re familiar with one of those. The stock tool is definitely not the best. Especially again, if it’s been a while since they’ve been removed.
Buying and installing a better servo, could potentially saw your problems as well.
Being new to the hobby is OK especially when you’ve got plenty of good videos out there, showing you exactly what to do. You’ll get better at it you just gotta dive in. The hobby grade RCS are meant to be wrenched on and upgraded.
Feel free to hit me up with any questions. I’m always happy to help.
@@EastTactics it's awesome that u reply to basically everyone. Ur 1 out of maybe 2 or 3 others at most that always reply! It's huge. I know newbies love when ppl with channels and experience answer. It's deff the road to success for a yt channel. And wow I kinda thought the black screw in the middle of the red hex might have to be loosened first or something. I guess I'll try my little hammer impact tommorow and hope it pops off. My wheels sure feel loose and way sloppier than when I got it a month ago
I did this today and what a difference! Thank you for making this video.
There is a servo saver extra heavy spring option for high torque servos on arrma’s website that should tighten up the servo saver without trying to shim it. I watched a video of someone using a vise grip to compress the spring so he could get a wrench onto the hex usually covered by the plastic saver.
Interesting, ya back during the time I made this vid Arrma was over red LOCKTITE’ing the servo savor making it a nightmare to get it open. They sinces eased up on that.
I still feel the snap ring instal is an easy option to tightening it.
i watched it too but theres a lot more work involved and you need a vice! I think this way is best
This was very helpful. I do happen to have that e-clip tool. I was able to do this process without removing it fully from the car luckily.
Nice!!
Tested today, big improvement on steering!!!
Nice!
It’s game changing right!
Happened to me today thought I broke in half the bell crank. Thanks man video helped
Anytime! 😎👍
thanks the the video, just a heads up though. the kraton v4 i bought (Nov 2020) i was able to remove the saver using a socket wrench and a pair of channel locks to hold the end that is recessed in the plastic. It broke free with little force and didnt ever mar the plastic i was holding with the channels locks. I was then able to put in a proper spacer. I printed a few spaces from my 3d printer to get rid of some slop.
they’re pretty good actually listening to us. Maybe they reduced the amount of red Loctite they put in those suckers. Well played... either way!
Hi. Nice video! I also have problems with standard metal rings in bell cranks and I want to change them for bearings. What is the type of those 4 bearings (yellow in your video)? Are they plain or ball or roller or needle ones?
Here’s two options
Fast Eddie Bearings kit (includes servo savor bearings)
amzn.to/2Xdi7Gg
Avid bearing kit
www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=1507&kitname=Kraton
My god man this was my exact issue when I tried to change my steering servo. Off the ground it would whip my wheels left and right but in the ground it felt weak like I installed something wrong. Thank you so much I ordered the parts you recommend I’ll get them tmr Thru Amazon I’m planning on taking my Kraton to the beach this week and rest out my paddle tires. I’ll let you know how it turns out !
Hey, appreciate it man, glad you found this…. It’s actually one of my older videos and I’ve got a more recent in-depth video regarding steering here.
Snap rings are definitely a legitimate help though.
ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
Dude …. The smile on my face when I tested it out. Huuuuge difference. And just in time. Tomorrow I’m headed to the beach to rip up the sand with my paddle tires. Much thanks. You’re a genius
Also I added the bearings as well
Awesome video bro! Wish i got to see the results of the stationary turning test tho!
Thanks! Here’s my latest on the topic
ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
mine wasn't hard to take apart. Took the washer to home depot and bought a bunch, now to make the servo saver tighter just add shims.
Nice!
So are you saying by doing this modification the steering will return to neutral, straight when I release the transmitter steering.
It will help, that’s for sure. Likely get it back to straight as well.
When at a stand still friction from the ground can resist a weak or loose servo, while the vehicle is moving however it has a much easier time to get you back to neutral.
Watch this video for even more in depth look at maximizing steering
ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.htmlsi=nl-j_-RBuVtVJ0JN
@@EastTactics thank you very much. I’ll definitely subscribe now after seeing those details that you put into this video. There are so many UA-cam videos that are just irritating to watch because of the amateur level.
My fireteam steering is decent, definitely not as bad as what you showed here, but I still want to upgrade it. Thinking of doing either this or getting the basher queen servo saver and steering items and hopefully be done with that part of it. I just wonder how much extra stain this puts on the servo and how it might affect its lifespan?
It does put more work on the servo, def make sure your servo endpoints are set right. Any servo is better then the stock servo. But you know the one recommend.
Thanks for watching my content.
Watch this one for a ton of good info
ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
@@EastTactics I always watch your videos. Definitely some of the most informative out there bar none. Also I have set my end points. Whether or not I’ve done them correctly is another matter. I try to err on the side of caution but I feel like my steering may lack a little because of it.
Mine doesn't want to return to zero on the steering. Gonna have to try this
More details here👍👍
ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
Great how-to vids man, nice detail.
Since I build my arrmas I go with the adjustable one
Smart
Great videoc! Please which is the circlip dimension? I mean inner or outer diameter.
Thank you
its the 9/16 circlip. You can find a link in the description to the kit that has a bunch of them. if you need the exact mm dimensions of both inner and outer. let me know... When I get home from work today, I'll take my calipers and measure for ya.
@@EastTactics thank you! I would put to my kraton v5, but i'd Like to know exactly which circlip to take. Now I have 14mm inner diameter, if should it be necessary other diameter let me know. Grazie!
14mm will do it 👍
Wonderful stuff man, very informative and useful video. Thanks
having the same issue on a OUTCAST
Thanks! Just installed three clips! :)
Awesome… be sure to watch this vid ( if you haven’t already) to get the full updated scoop on steering.
ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
What size are the bearing
6x10x3
yes... its 6x10x3
See any of my video descriptions... look for link called "master link" or
"Arrma V4 V5 parts"
in that list you will find bearing kits
Great video. Fixed mine thanks to you.
Awesome brother! Glad I could help. I do consider this video here to be my mother of all videos when it comes to student. So if you haven’t seen this. Make sure you check it out
ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
Do you recommend doing this (upgrading to hot racing servo saver, shimming, linkage bearings, and aluminum mount) on the V5 Kraton as well? I was told my servo is dead so I figured I’d upgrade while at it. Appreciate any help.
Yes, if you plan on changing out your servo saver completely to the hot racing you may not have to worry about doing the shimming if by chance it’s adjustable. However if you want to stick with the stock servo savor than I would recommend putting two or three shims/snap rings in it. Either way you’re going to want to get rid of the metal bushings and replace those with bearings. I absolutely recommend getting aluminum servo mount, And completely getting rid of the stock servo and picking up a high-powered servo. Watch this video for the details regarding that.
ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
@@EastTactics if I put in the hot racing servo saver do I still replace the bearings? Are the bearings part of the stock saver?? Sorry, newbie here.
No worries, glad to help. I’m not 100% sure if the hot racing servo saver comes with the bearings, I would take a close look at the description of the purchase to see. If it doesn’t then You would want to pick up those four bearings. I believe in the video link above it gives you the exact dimensions if you want to just buy those by themselves. As far The stock servo saver goes, I’m pretty sure even with the V5 that they put metal bushings in there so you want to upgrade those. You’ll find out when you get it apart
@@EastTactics many thanks! I’ll let u know if the HR servo saver has the bearings.
Sounds good …thanks!
An E-Clip or C-clip will slip right in from the side with an applicator. 1/2" no disassembly required.
How do you get the snap ring, E-clip between the spring and the servo saver so that it tightens the tension?
@@EastTactics good point, I have a small engine Briggs spring compressor but a screwdriver and vice grips may suffice?
Hey East, do you think the EXB saver could use the adjustment? It comes with the “X-Hard” spring.
I’m not sure….how do you feel your steering is?
One test I like to do to test both my servo saver as well as the strength of my servo, is “the upper hinge pin butt stop test”
Basically you’re Servo should be strong enough (with relation to a fairly tight servo saver) to push the servo arm all the way up against the little notch that is shaved off in your upper hinge pin brace even if you are literally holding your tires preventing them from turning.
When you hold those tires and then crank on your steering, your servo saver should tweak open and your servo should be strong enough to push it all the way up against the butt stop.
Now technically this is not a test so much for your servo savor as it is for your servo. Because if you have a super loose servo saver than your servo is going to be able to do this just fine right. However the key is that after having a properly tightened servo saver, your servo is still strong enough to crank that a full range of motion.
My guess is that adding a snap ring into the EXB would not hurt. And is likely needed, maybe two snap rings. I actually went in and added a third snap ring in my V4.
Watch this video to get a visual reputation of a lot of what I’m talking about
ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
Nice, thanks for sharing this info! 👍
I just got my Typhon 6S this week & just noticed that the stock servo lacks power & doesn't re-center correctly when I let go of the controller steering knob after turning to the left. It re-centers correctly after turning to the right however. There also seems to be a lot of play on the servo bracket while turning, the plastic bracket begins to twist. I'm hoping that the HR aluminum servo bracket will fix that. And I guess I will need a stronger servo as well.
Thanks again for posting this great vid! 👍
RC Bustanut, my pleasure, If there’s ever anything you need just drop a post in one of my videos and I’ll be quick to help. The 6s Typhon is an animal!!
@@EastTactics Thanks, likewise. You can drop a question here or on my RC channel.
Awesome videos you make brother keep it up. So my question is my servo saver, any tips on keeping it tight? Keeps loosing up after a run or two.
I take it that you were running the old version servo saver correct? The kind with the ability to come up through a hole in the bottom of the chassis and tighten it?. If that’s the case the first thought You might consider if it keeps getting loose on you is simply replacing it with the newer version in the V4. And then snap ring it up.
Another thought would be to simply install the snap rings into your servo savor which I believe in essence would simply do away with the loosening and tightening function and sort of force it to be tighter. But I could be wrong.
I replaced mine and added bearings and now it’s not turning freely I think I missed something does someone have a vid of the whole assembly?
Doesn’t this video go through the whole assembly?
Hey, excellent video! Does the exb have the same steering setup? Thank
I believe so yes. It could very well suffer from the same issues. My guess is if the steering is abnormally weak, take a close look at the servo saver when steering (at a standstill on concrete) and see if it is flexing open a lot.
I have a V.5 kraton and put 4 snap rings on the servo saver. Kind of an excessive amount of and snap rings but my steering much more responsive.
Awesome!!
Is there a before and after by any chance?
How’s this?
ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
Video was amazing, exactly what I was looking for
Sweet! Glad I could be if help
I am ordering some 6x10x3 bearing to convert my exb 6s bushings and I saw some with a flanged end. I wonder if this would work in place of shims.
It would act as a shim yes, but I never thought a shim was necessary there? Is there a reason why you feel like you need to shim that? If not then just go with your classic 6X 10 X3 bearings.
Good video👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks!!!
Great video.... Very informative... Been looking for exactly this topic.
Changed my user from Dennis Scott and started a channel... All you guys inspired me. More family stuff... We will see
Appreciate you
Works well
I guess its different with some. Kraton cause my 4S kratons steering is fine but didn't know about loctite on SERVO put loctite on my slipper Clutch blue medium strength
The servo saver of the 4s and 6s kraton is different
@@ValFPV like how weaker?
Great tip man
Thank you it helped a lot!!
This is my latest on the topic. Covers even more bases
ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
Old school trick folks used to do this on the old slash 4x4 😂👍
Really helpful. Thank you!
Anytime brother!
This vid takes the help to the next level
ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
Good video man
Do You have a video of the results? Like in the begining of this vid. Showing the car in the ground and turning left and right?
Edwin Cordero RC You know… I do have footage that I could put together to show the difference. Tell you what, I’ll drop a short video On the visual difference. Keep a lookout
@@EastTactics many thanks for that, and your help.
Mines didnt have loctite could I use a wash instead of a snap ring?
Oh yeah! The only reason why snap rings are used because it can be a beast to get that thing taken apart. But if you can get it apart without damaging it. Then you can use any thing
Hey man nice video. So if it's never loose then why is mine loose? Mine is moving around it's weird I Wonder if they will just send me another steering block.
Yeah, I would assume this issue stems over into all of the V4 vehicles.
Are you experiencing more than just “weak steering”?
This particular issue that’s common with the V4 has more to do with the fact that it’s Loctite together so it’s really difficult to get in there to actually apply more pressure to the spring. In doing so it tightens up the servo saver and sends some more response to the steering rack, as opposed to being too loose (Yet really hard to get into). By going in and adding some spacers below the spring it in essence tightens up the servo saver. So if you’re simply experiencing poor steering then this tactic could be your solution. However if your steering system is broken/snapped or something more serious than just “weak” Because the servo saver is taking too much of the torque away from the system. Then you might have a reason to approach Arrma with Warranty claim.
@@EastTactics Hi east tactics. Thank you for that great reply. I was holding down one of the tires and yes the servo horn moves but all the torque get eating up by the servo saver. I make a small video later to show you. Yeh that would be the fix for me to tighten up the saver with those washers spacer's. I contact arrma too maybe I get can a new one from them because this shouldn't happen With only 20 or so packs throw my truck.
Hey brother. I'm uploading a video now so please check it out let me know if I have to put in those retaining clips to make the saver more tight thanks. When I put some pressure on the right tire you can see the servo saver open up a little bit that's probably normal but it being loose like that is not.
Where do I find the video? Can you send a link to it?
@@EastTactics ua-cam.com/video/hpyv25ewgr4/v-deo.html
Got the v5 notorious and out the box servo saver was to loose
Worked a treat, ty
Trying to figure out what size bearings they are to sit in the servo they are tiny
I added this information to the description
Snap ring kit (you need 9/16)
amzn.to/3bBDDM8
Bearings kit (includes servo savor bearings)
amzn.to/2Xdi7Gg
Avid bearing kit
www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=1507&kitname=Kraton
I have a snap ring expander/compressor tool.
This is on my notorious 6S V4 so probably this happens all across the V4 line 6s
What size was the snap ring east?
9/16
amzn.to/3tFtHdq
@@EastTactics thanks brother yeah I went back and heard it. Definitely a awesome fix my saver was so loose put in 2 snap rings whole lot better.
Also using a power hobby brushless servo so it's crazy powerful and fast
Hey Brother, what size was that snap ring I don’t think you mentioned it in the vid?
Hammer Down
9/16 is what ya need x2
Mentioned @ 8:40
See the description for link
Been running this mod for months and it’s been amazing!!
Thanks Bro! 🤙👊😎
Hi, the size 9/16 for the circlips? Is it in mm? 9mm inner and 16mm outer? How do I read it
@@kennethchoong253 he meant inches, which is roughly 14mm.
Correct... I noticed the item had somehow fallen off my master list link (found in the description of the vid) I added the kit back to the list (list name “‘Arrma V4 Kraton Parts”
Hope that helps.
Thanks for your help. I'm so subscribing to your channel!
😎👊!!
So I'm having this same problem but mine doesn't want to turn at all when I'm driving it could it be the servo saver or something eles?
Set the vehicle down on concrete or payment. Take a really close look at the servo itself when you’re turning it. Is your servo turning full range? Make sure your remote setting/turn rate knob On the controller is turned up. If your servo is functioning properly take a really close look at the servo saver which is a funky looking plastic contraption that is compressed together, if while you’re turning the servo you see that thing opening up ALOT...Then most likely your servo saver is the issue. If it’s not opening up that much at all and you see it turning, you might have something wrong with your steering rack assembly. The Ackerman bar might be broken or severely bent or your steering turnbuckles could be loose or disconnected. Do that assessment and get back to me and let me know what you find.
@@EastTactics ok so I bought a new servo thinking that was the problem an it wasn't unfortunately lol, so I upgraded all my servo savor stuff to HR added 2 snap rings and tightened up the servo saver, and it turns decent to the right but turning left not so much, it has me stumped big time tbh I can't figure this out at all
@@EastTactics also the remote is set up exactly how u said
Did you make sure that when you attached your servo Horn to your server that you allow the servo to center itself? This happens automatically the second you provide power to the servo, but you want to make sure that you have not attached the servo horn yet. Your issue might be due to this. That’s my first thought.
My next that Hass to do more so with the pillow balls and your hubby nuts. Have you perhaps tightened them too tight on the left side which is preventing smooth action?
@@EastTactics I'm pretty sure I did let the servo recenter itself but I could be wrong ill try that out in the morning, I did check the the pillow balls and hubby nuts they are good not to tight but also not to loose with a lil bit of play in both sides
I need to replace the stock servo and check that servo saver.
Ive really liked the savor sw1210 sg.
East Tactics hi what mm circlips do I need? I’m from the Uk not sure what 9/16 is in mm
Bennett 799, I googled a conversion chart and this is what I calculated. Assuming the Calculator is right 9/16 is equal to 14.2875mm
East Tactics wow! I was told they need to be 11mm so they can’t slip over the nut
Bennett 799, Honestly I probably wouldn’t go with what I said then. I was just shooting in the dark with a conversion calculator. I’m not very familiar with converting metrics. Any reason why you can’t buy a box and snap rings from the states with 9/16 in it. I apologize for not being more helpful
Now how's the plastic servo mount holding up with the tighter steering rack? I'm of the religion that aluminum servo saver and rack are the only answer here 🤣
Hey Kyle thanks for commenting. I’m not sure I understand the question though. I have a aluminum servo mount here. And I would agree they’re the only way to go. The stock composite had to go right away.
As far as the plastic servo saver itself. Never had any problems with it. It’s done the job. I mean it wouldn’t hurt to upgrade the servo saver itself to aluminum I suppose, do you use the hot racing servo saver?
When you heat up the servo saver with a hair blower youll be able to unscrew it with no problems at al.
I’ve heard a few people that tried that that didn’t have success. But that’s great it worked for you 😝💪👊
Will those snap rings fit a 4s kraton?
Hey Jason, thanks for subbing!
The servo saver in the arrma Kraton 4s, Is completely different.
This is just a shot in the dark, but check out this video. Are you perhaps having this issue?
ua-cam.com/video/n0VC4oMpIcM/v-deo.html
Nice vid. What state are you in? Those mountain look like my backyard in slc?
Thx! You got it right. I live just down from ya, in Pleasant Grove.
@@EastTactics awesome!
Where's that park. I'd love to meet you out there with my V4 Kraton and v4 outcast.
Yeeah bois, slc ftw
Does anyone know which metric snaprings I need?
Im pretty sure you cant buy these (at least online) in anything smaller then a kit. This kit includes the 9/16 piece you need.
amzn.to/36SMar7
@@EastTactics hmm.. Actually I was asking what the metric equivalent (or a similar one that will fit) is. I am in Europe so shipping from US is quite expensive. Thanks for your help though! 👍😉
@@ELValenin 14.3 mm
Hey man, I just have a few questions. First of all, my steering was barely working just like that video that you showed, then after a few runs my servo stoped working all together. No problem, as Horizon is sending me a new servo. So anyways I go to turn my front wheels right and left, and jeez it was a lot harder to turn then they are normally. Like I had to actually try to turn them for it to turn. So my question is, how do I fix this? And also, do you think this is what caused the servo to die?
Marvin Mikha, It very well could be why the servo died, it sounds to me like your hub nuts might be too tight, check out this video to make sure that is not the issue first.
ua-cam.com/video/MtCNn-Qc-Dc/v-deo.html
If that’s not the issue you might check to see if you over tightened the screw that locks down your servo savor itself. If it’s over tightened, it can bind up your steering as well. Let me know what you find. 😎👍👊
Yes... you might have tightened your hubs over the pillow balls too tight.
Jeez I completely forgot to tell you what happened man, sorry about that! So anyway, the steering got a little better after I did the things in the video that you linked, so thanks for that, and also I tightened up the servo saver and it also got a bit better but still not as good as I’ve seen it in some videos of the kraton.
Yeah, unfortunately the stock setup only outputs 6v to the servo. And the stock Servo is only capable of handling about that much. However higher end servos have the capability of taking 7.4 V however our stock ESC does not output that high-voltage. So to really crank up the power in your steering you either need to buy a higher and ESC combined with a higher end servo.
Or... Pick up a higher end servo and install an external BEC in your rig. I’m actually going to be dropping a video in the next little while where I install an external BEC and document the difference of power to the steering
Good idea, I’ll think about doing that. Thanks for the suggestions man!
Cool stuff brother just subbed ya 👊🏼😎
Thx bro! I’m just waiting on a 20tooth pinion gear, plan to make some new vids this weekend. Bash on!! 👊👊😎
and you never break the ackermann bar?
No issues to date... it’s just tightening the servo savor, by no means is it doing away with its function. Great question 👍🏻👍🏻
If in the future I do break it, repair and break again, I would for sure remove one of the snap rings. But this mod has been great since completed.
It turns out mine wasn’t loose. The post is too long. I think I need to shim it.
I sub ✌ tnx for that info
My kraton 6s has full throttle but no steering at all. Is that my servo🤔
More than likely it’s your servo. However there’s a few things that could’ve happened. Make sure your controllers steering threshold (dial) didn’t mistakenly get turned all the way down. If that’s not the issue you might consider doing a factory reset on your ESC.
Are you hearing anything when you turn the steering? A buzzing noise or clicking or anything?
@@EastTactics i have the factory spectrum controller that came with the kraton v4. The dials are at the same setting as when the steering was working. I hear nothing when turning the steering...only the fan is on
Yeah for the most part your server probably just went out on you. The stock service isn’t the greatest quality. When you pick up a new servo consider these tactics in this video
ua-cam.com/video/Gf77pUtEdzI/v-deo.html
Also first chance you get I would suggest picking up a better controller. The spectrum is no Bueno
@@EastTactics yeah I've been hearing bad things about this controller. So if I buy a new controller how do I sync it to the car?
Will this work on the v5 as my servo saver is s@@t
From what I understand yes it should work. There was no talk about Arrma changing the steering system that exists in the V4 to something different in the V5, or the EXB for that matter.
They may have listened and used less Loctite securing the servo saver together, so it might be possible to actually take it apart with a little bit more ease. However I still think it’s simpler just to throw in a couple of snap rings.
@@EastTactics ok before I do this, I've ordered hr servo holder and the hr drive hubs from amain hobbies should be here in 2 weeks in UK, (could not find them in UK) as I think part of the problem is the plastic hubs, and the flex in the servo holder
Getting the servo mount upgrade does help a bit. And it’s a highly recommended upgrade anyway. Regarding the hub knuckles upgrade to hot racing, typically those do not cause any hindrance in your steering unless you’ve over tightened your hub nuts. However upgrading those to the hot racing aluminum is again a highly recommended upgrade. They are great!. But for sure once you’ve got those installed if it resolves your problem you should be good to go. Otherwise you can look at the servo saver tactic as a back up.
@@EastTactics the screws that go in the hubs are cross threaded on the plastic so I think the miss aline is part of it, thanks for your uploads only been here a while and watched most of your videos great tips 👍😀
Have you done it on your Kraton V5? How many rings you use?
The v3 had the same problem I thought the v4 was supposed to be a better servo saver
Me too. Guess their fix stopped it from getting lose, however many are finding that the stock setting is just not tight enough.
Bro I think I know why you haven't steering issues I have one word for you " Pole" lolol
Lol… good point 😂
My brand new kraton had this issue after less than a month.
That looks like a lot of work....
Starting to think this hobby isn't for me.
There’s definitely things that gotta be set right, or improved from factory.
This hobby is all about wrenching, bashing, fixing, taking it a step farther. And continuing to improve your rig over time.
Watch this video for a more recent and thorough all in one solution on your steering.
I’m happy to assist you any time. Ever have a question just know you have me in your corner.
ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
@@EastTactics thanks! I wrench for a living so sometimes I just wanna go home and bash, not wrench lol. Also wrenching is way more fun when it's for an upgrade, sucks for a repair. I try to upgrade when I repair though.
I finally broke out the tools and parts last night to fix my kraton, got it turning better while driving but still can't turn for crap when stationary, Ill check out that vid after work and see what else I can try.
@@EastTactics Also sucks when brand new stuff keeps breaking! My senton 3s came with a bad reciever/radio (kept cutting out) and the servo died the 3rd day I had it. Got this kraton and a screw on the rear suspension vanished first week, then this steering issue started like a week later. All in all I've had it 3 months or so, its been running maybe 2 weeks outta that time. Armma needs some quality control! Now I know next time get the exb model and add my own electronics, spektrum hasn't been good to me...my new base camp the esc and receiver went out first week, almost caught fire, too.
Many that’s crazy, sorry for the bad run of luck. Hopefully I’ve been helpful and progressing ya toward issue free bash sessions. Let me know if you have any questions, anytime!
What I wonder the most is, how do you get your car so damn clean dude. Mine looks like it's been raised from the titanic. Or worse.
Daniel Konrad, LOL that’s a great question, i’m digging into my video vault, one of the first videos I created so forgive me if it’s a little bit goofy. But this is still the same tactic I used to this day to keep her Supa clean.
ua-cam.com/video/zDYB1_dUGoE/v-deo.html
@@EastTactics thanks, good tips.
Why so many complaints about a Truck THATs supposed to be so Expensive and tough and fast plus complications??
Troy Flanagan, who’s complaining? The manufacturer, Arrma puts out a quality product whose toughness to price ratio is 1000 times stronger than $100 Walmart RC car. What’s amazing about this hobby and these high-end platforms is there is a ton of third-party support, support were a lot of research and development has gone In to make an amazing product even more amazing. There’s nothing to complain about here.
Your just seeing what i READ ON u Tube MAKES ME A LITTLE BIT NERVOUS Reading Some Negative REVIEWS i had a Ruckus. 4x4 Rc Truck WITH a BRUSH MOTOR at first MOTOR BLEW UP ON ME THEN I BOUGHT A BRUSHLESS MOTOR FOR IT AND A COOLING FANS NO MORE BLOWN MOTOR BUT THEN THEN OTHER PROBLEMS STARTED ARISING AND I BABY THE TRUCK LIKE CRAZY LIKE CLEANING IT SPRAYING THE SHOCKS. AND INSIDE OF WHEELS WITH DW40 AND PUT $300 IN UPGRADES INTO IT STILL PROBLEMS ARose WITH THE TRUCK AND i Didn't Even DRIVE IT THAT HARD MOSTLY ON BASEBALL DIAMONDS AND PARK SHORT GRASS ENGINE GETS EXEMELY HOT ON BOTH TRUCKS SOLD THE RUCKUS TRUCK FOR $50 Dollars it WAS just Costing ME TO much money TO maintain SO I SOLD IT I HOPE THAT DOES NOT HAPPEN WITH THE 4S KRATON THATS ALL I'M SAYING PEACE OUT MY RC BROTHERS AND SISTERS AND STAY SAFE.
👍
actually its not hard at all to get the servo saver apart just grip it with a vice or pair of pliers and put a socket on the end and it comes right apart. added a washer from a spare steering rack i had and it tightened right up.
Nice! Yeah the newer versions, even the newer versions of the before armor cut on that they were putting too much Loctite in. So it’s only the early production of the before where that’s a big issue.
But yeah I’m really glad they made it a lot easier
Circlet pliers
Heck i put in 3 and the saver is still a little gimpy
Thats crazy, might need to nab a better quality servo. how's it fairing now?
@@EastTactics It runs fine with my powerhobby 729bl its just you can hold the wheels and the servo saver wont fight you too hard, but it turns ok in grass so ill live with it until i feel like putting in another shim.
It's called circlip... no need to buy expensive hobby-spesific items...
isnt that the point of the servo saver and to "save the servo" i get the reasoning why you did it totally. but typically the car is always moving. its for that split second re positioning backing up and re directing the truck.
For many, the servo savor is just too loose out of the box. Adding the snap rings (tightening it) doesn’t eliminate the servo savors functionality, it’s still definitely “saving” the servo from snapping/breaking like a completely tight or locked system would do.
Your right, the car is always moving, but now, after doing this mod, when the car is moving it turns MUCH sharper and is WAY more responsive then it was before. I could tell the difference immediately, and my servo is working fine to this day.
If your tires (when sitting on flat concrete) are not turning all the way right and all the way left (and fairly quickly) And you see the servo savor itself (when looking close) twisting dramatically... then your servo savor is too loose.
If the savor is not twisting dramatically and the arm on the servo is not moving much, then you likely have a defective or too weak servo.
Hope that helps :)
@@EastTactics gotcha, i upgraded my servo to the same savox you mentioned, maybe ill try the snap rings in the future but for now im happy with it, did you upgrade the your radio? i just ordered a Sanwa MT-S. I did upgrade the 2 front and rear plastic tower braces as well, and servo mount all hot racing. the radio that comes with the kraton v4 is a joke
M B, That’s awesome! You’ve definitely made some smart upgrades. I dropped the spectrum like a bad habit. And picked up the tactic.
Make sure you check out my video on beefing up your shock Rod ends. Those Were among the first things to go for me. But once upgraded they’ve been solid since. Look forward to Being a part of your journey. Love this hobby!
What’s crazy is after installing the M2C Chassis I started getting more and more crazy with my jumps. Soon you’ll start seeing Aluminum Suspension mounts are your new best friends.
For an effin $600 (otd) RC we shouldn't have to do this! I have a 2 weeks old Kraton V5 and have the same exact problem.
Agreed! :)
Me too, maybe I shoulda gone with Traxxas.
watching you struggle with a snap ring is hilarious... you could just go to the hardware store and buy a $10 pair of snap ring pliers XD or cheaper if you can find them in the $5 bargain bin..
Yes for sure, I have them now lol
So this video here is a must watch if you find the information in this video valuable.
ua-cam.com/video/UF66n0-u3Gw/v-deo.html
I WILL FORSURE I WAS RUNNING IT AT A 100PERCENT WHEN I HAD IT RUNNING. AND BEFORE THE MOTOR MELTED THE SLIPPER CLUCK IF THAT'S THE PROBLEMS FORSURE THE OWNER SAID OVER THE PHONE YESTERDAY HE HAS TO DIG DEEPER INSIDE THE ENGINE TO SEE HOW BAD IT IS HOPEFULLY NOT THAT BAD I'M GOING TOO BUY BACK UP BATTERY AND WHEN I GET TRUCK BACK DRIVE IT AT 50 TO 75 PERCENT AND LOOK EVERYTHING OVER AND TRY AND FIGURE THIS OUT SO IT DOES NOT HOPEFULLY HAPPEN AGAIN HE SAID OWNER I MEAN HOW TO FIX SLIPPER CLUCK I GUESS HE MEANS TAKE IT OUT AND PUT BACK IN TO CLEAN DON'T KNOW IF THAT'S MAKING ANY SENSE JUST GOING BY WHAT HES EXPLAINED TO ME YESTERDAY OVER THE PHONE IF I WERE ALLOWED IN HIS SHOP I WOULD HAVE A WAY BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF TRUCK AND THE COMPONENTS ON IT BUT WITH ALL THIS COVID VIRUS IT MAKES THINGS VERY HARD YES I HAVE READ OVER DIRECTIONS OVER AND OVER BUT SOMETIMES YOU NEED PEOPLE TO SHOW THAT ARE VERY EXPRENICE AT TECHNOLOGY WITH RC CARS AND TRUCKS NOT JUST HAND U THE BOX AND SAY READ THE DIRECTIONS AND WHEN I FIRST PURCHASED THE TRUCK. THE XT90 WIRE WAS NOT IN THE TRUCK SO I HAD TO GO BACK CAUSE I COULD NOT CHARGE TRUCK AT ALL THEN HAD TO GO BACK AGAIN CAUSE FRONT LEFT WHEEL FELL OFF THEY FORGOT TO PUT FRONT WASHERS ON WHEELS FRONT AND BACK WHEELS $925 DOLLARS LATER NOW A BACK UP BATTERY AND HEAT GUN IF HE SELLS HEAT GUNS?
Turn off caps lock
@@user-dz2jv4in5z Where r THEY Located on the TRUCK
@@user-dz2jv4in5z may sound stupid i know but i don't know thst much ABOUT TRUCK yet
@@troyflanagan173 IT'S THE BUTTON ON YOUR COMPUTER/PHONE/DEVICE THAT MAKES THE TEXT LOOK LIKE THIS. IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH RCs.
ACE Hardware has everything...so this is definitely not a improve in desine by Arrma.....
Tom Andrews, I agree.
PUT THE wording wrong
Troy Flanagan, What are you referring to?
Would help to know what you're talking about?
U TUBE Complaints from some KRATON 4s KRATON Customers about RADIO TRANSMITTER Stxs THE. SERVO THE BEARINGS ETC ETC. THE STEERING THE SHOCKS MAYBE IM BEING OVERWELMED WITH THE CONSIDERING AFTER ONLY 5 DAYS MY BLX HOT MOTOR BLEW STARTED SMOKING AT THE BACK OF MOTOR MY HOLE SYSTEM IS SPECTRUM RADIO TRANSMITTER BATTERY AND CHARGER S2100 BATTERY 5000MAH 14.8. 7.4 RADIO TRANSMITTER STX THAT'S WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT AND BRUSHLESS MOTOR WITH 2 FANS 1 IN THE BACK AND 1 IN THE FRONT TO BOOT AND MY MOTOR BLOWS UP SMOKING I'M LUCKY ITS UNDER WARRANTY $925 Dollars Later!!
Troy Flanagan, Well that makes a little more sense. Now I can see why you have issue. I’d be pretty jaded to if that soon out of the gate that many things broke. I’ve had mine for over half a year now and I’m still running the stock motor in stock ESC. I’m really glad that your issues are being covered by warranty. If there’s anything I could do to help with your fixed rig let me know I’d be happy to.
@@EastTactics DO you GUYS HAVE ARMA KRATON 4S TRUCKS WITH SPECTRUM SYSTEMS I MEAN RADIO TRANSMITTER STX S2100 CHARGER BLX HOT MOTOR AND 5000MAH 14.8 7.4 LIPO BATTERY PACK 50C?
Great video bro
PUT THE wording wrong