Which Rotohammer Concrete Drill and Bit Do I Need?
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- Опубліковано 2 лип 2024
- Rotohammer Concrete Drills explained! Which is your favorite? Tell us in the comments!
Screws: What you need to Know: • Screws: What You Need ...
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After almost destroying a regular big Dewalt 20v drill one day, I bought the hammer version of the same drill and then, eventually, their base-model 20v SDS. The smaller drill is so much more handy, but when you've got a friend in need it's always fun to break out the SDS. The reaction I get is usually something like, "Oh crap, this guy is serious". I know it's the base-model but I still get the urge to grunt like Tim "The Tool Man" Taylor when I'm done drilling a hole.
In 1990’s we quit placing bolts in bridge caps but started drilling holes for the steel beams as the highway department started accepting epoxy. Drilling with a big Milwaukee or air became our go to hole maker. Your comments were spot on. Thanks for your great review and video.
Great overview. All I can add is: practice first. Every time I have to drill in a new (to me) material I practice first. This has saved me a lot of stress!
My second powertool I ever bought was a Protool CHP 26 PLUS the week I moved out of my parents house. My first being a Metabo cordless drill. Buy once, cry once indeed! But well worth it, especially in NL where houses are built with concrete, brick and gypsum blocks.
My philosophy on drilling concrete… buy once, cry once.
I’ve been through a few box store chineesium hammer drills. The last one I ever bought was a Hilti.
There no better Rotary Hammer than Hilti. I own a decent sized construction firm that primarily does structural foundations for electrical utilities. A lot of the gear we set is epoxy embedded so every year we drill a lot of holes. The other big thing we use the Hilti for is any type of digging that we do around energized lines.
Over the years we’ve purchased just about every brand out there and have been lucky with Hilti. Sure, they’re not exactly cheap for a hammer drill but when you can’t afford to have the tools used every day not work they become extremely valuable. Can’t recommend them enough!
I just lucked out and bought a Bosch bulldog with several bits for $25. I won’t likely ever get a deal like this again.
Never ever use the Hammer drill setting when drilling in tile … unless you don’t care if it shatters ! I saw quite a few carpenters do that and then agreed with me that it was a mistake ! Buy a drill bit made for the material you want to drill in to and use the correct setting on the drill
ewxactly ..there s glass drills, ceramic drills ..and you dont use hammer mode for them..just the spin
@@83glacius And lubricant / cooling
You can buy SDS/SDS-Plus bits larger than 1 1/8”; those rotary hammer drills are probably just 1 1/8” rated. SDS are usually rated at their maximum concrete bit size; some will also have ratings for wood and steel. They can be quite nice with regular drill (no hammer) mode as they can have great clutch protection to prevent injuries when bits bite. There is also SDS-Max which is similar to SDS/SDS-Plus but just a bit larger. When buying look for a 3 mode, drill ONLY, drill with hammer, and hammer ONLY, as they offer the most utility.
20 years in carpentry and I agree 100. Ended up with similar tools for same reasons. Thanks for documenting on video, so well, the inevitable conclusions of a thinking hardworking tradesman. It’s as if you took my thoughts, lived my life and made videos if it.
I love all my Bosch tools. Worked every day. Made me MONEY!
When I was a young man in the 90’s, we used Hilti and AEG hammer drills for termite work. Sometimes drilling all day long. Never ever had a problem with either, but that was over 30 years ago. I cannot speak to present day.
If I'm drilling ceramic tiles I use a Tungsten tipped masonry bit and start off with rotary only until I've gone through the glaze. If the drill is going well through the ceramic I leave the hammer off until I hit the wall behind. I've had zero tile breakages with this technique,(so far!).
The Titan fasteners are really good if you have to set a fixing near the edge of a wall or if the bricks are friable. The ease of installation is unmatched and I tend to use them instead of expansion bolts most times. You do need to follow the torque guidelines though.
Always a great watch with great advice. Thankyou 👍
But sometimes you just NEED (ok, strong want) the big Bosch 11264EVS SDS-MAX hammer drill so you can punch a bunch of 1-3/4" holes deep in Granite to Dexpan a boulder without wasting half a day and a many hundreds of bucks renting a tow-behind compressor and Atlas-Copco jack hammer after buying a handful of throw-away-after-use air-blown bit heads.
There are times when you put your construction hat on backwards and break shit the county won't let you blow up.
Use the wedge anchors but get stainless. The tapcon anchors seem to shear and break off. If you’re done with the basket ball hoop grind the stainless anchor thread off. Another tip when installing the wedge anchor, to make sure you have the hole deep enough stick the threads in first and verify the depth you want.
I have a newer milwaukee m18 (not even the fuel version) cordless hammer drill for work, It does great for installing cameras and running low voltage wiring. It even has a safety feature that makes it near impossible for the drill to catch and twist on you. Dont forget if your drilling alot of concrete to be using a vaccum (they make ones that attach to the drill). OSHA requires it for certain exposure times to protect against silica dust.
Great information. Thank you.
Thanks for the awesome content and great videos!!
Great stuff today. I have used all of them. Great explanation
loved your video on fidelity
Learned a few things thanks
As per usual you are bang on the money!
Your mention of epoxy fixings took me back a bit ...... They are good and efficient to be sure, but I have seen a good alternative (especially if you have no epoxy to hand. Cement!
Just mix a small handful of Portland with water to make a pourable slurry. Clean your hole out well and pour some of the slurry in, then insert your fixing and if you have misjudged the amount add a little slurry from the top. Agitate to remove any bubbles then leave in place. Job done!
I’ve learned some projects, don’t get lazy and use battery sawsall. The big Milwaukee plug in does more work. Sometimes better to drag out cords, clean, put away. For a heavy duty job, less time overall, and less arm/wrist pain. Correct tool for the job at hand. Enjoy your videos and experience. I’m more DIY, so learn a lot from others.
Keep up the good work!
Scott, all fine tools!
In the 80’s and 90’s with Hatfield Electric, we had a boatload of Hilton tools. My two favorites that I always used, the TE-22 and the TE-72 both roto hammers, the 72 we used for demo too. They clutched when they had to, saying your wrists. We used mostly drop ins, AJ’s and tapcons. Hollow wall anchors in block walls. Great segment!👍👍
If you're drilling tile, you should use a bit made for tile, not a rotary hammer bit.
Nice explanation !
I used to struggle with a makita chuck style small roto hammer and one day in frustration I bought a Home Depot special Milwaukee SDS plus medium sized unit and my life changed. Add those fast drill bits they sell now and you have the easy button. Also a life changer was buying a harbor freight demo hammer. I live on hard clay that is as hard as concrete. We shot test pins into it when doing a slab test and it came back as hard as 4 sack. I have a duck bill bit for it and it was the only thing that allowed us to continue construction as trenchers would just dance on it.
Was doing some concrete work many years ago just drilling some tiny holes to attach some expanded metal grate to a concrete irrigation tube. I tried my simple little drill with a masonry bit not knowing any better. Ended up destroying the drill. Guy at Home Depot said “use this Bulldog”. It immediately became my favorite tool. Plenty of SDS bits for several applications.
Great video
We've switched to pretty much all Titan Fasteners when we lag garage door tracks to concrete and if you really want to make sure they never come out you can epoxy the Titan Fasteners in too. Definitely Bosch and Hilti are my go to brands for concrete work. And they last a long time.
Bosch bulldog is a great all around drill.
The way the Inca, Mayan, Egyptians and every other building cultures were able to drill in stone was by using a combination of Bow Drill a Copper Core drill and a mixture of Sand and Water. 👍
I remember seeing something about hydraulic cement for fixing anchors in concrete will work also
It’s probably better than most other options because it expands as it cures, locking itself to both surfaces. And it is some of the stickiest stuff I’ve seen, get some of that on your hands and let it dry and it doesn’t wash off, it wears off. Lol
When I was a kid I couldn’t wait to wake up on a Saturday morning, have a bowl of cereal and watch cartoons, now that I’m in my 30’s I can’t wait to wake up on a Saturday morning and watch the latest essential craftsman video, minus the cereal of course lol I guess preparing smoked meats and dips replaced the sugary delight.
Yes Scott. The first time I drilled into the stem wall to set an epoxy all thread I stood over the hole and blew it out with my air gun and got a face full of concrete dust. Wow! I wasn’t expecting that much. You may have done the same? Thanks for all your content as always
I was going to tell you I’ve been using Bosch rotary SDS hammers for a long time and the truth is the little ones will dig you a hole being a plumber. I’ve dug many of holes out with the little small SDS rotary hammers for companies SDS plus is probably your best bet because it’s just a beast, but if you’re a residential homeowner, you don’t need that.
Don’t forget Bosch is king
Just drilled some 3/8 inch holes in concrete with a 24 volt Dewalt. Used some corded skilsaw rotary hammers year's ago, still worked but heavy. Mostly for 1/4 to 5/8 holes in rock or concrete.
Drop in anchors are the best of the wedge and the titan combined
as a Aussie plumber for 45 years Diamond holes saws for very hard tiles and small to large holes in concrete we have Diamond holes from 3.5mm to 225mm
I got my Bosch drill from a charity sh0p for $17. The chuck didn't work but a youtube video later it was in working condition.
Easy - all of them :-)
About 3 weeks ago I broke a 3/8 Bosch sds rotary bit right in half. Never had that happen before. I’ve probably drilled 100s of anchor holes with that particular bit. But i figured the electrician who also uses it at my work weakened it the last time he used it 😂
I still have my 35 years old Red Head 747
Common use here is 1 1/8” hole into our “dirt” (last week I needed to dig a small hole to plant a palm tree, I placed the bucket teeth of the backhoe on the ground and started to curl. Started to lift my Kubota L 4701 off the ground with no tooth penetration…), so we can hammer T-posts in for fencing. Often the blades rip off because the hole is into basalt, the posts never wiggle. We have soily rock. So I use a Bulldog all the time.
In favor of wedge anchors: Being able to remove the nut and washer means that installed wedge acnhors can be reused for hanging different items. I drill the holes for wedge achors deep enough to later hammer them in out of sight. And... where is your SDS-Max?
Last one I promise … Ryobi sells a corded hammer drill for $65 that does great in most home applications and easily outdrills my Milwaukee combo cordless. For such a low price, it makes a lot of sense to just keep the Ryobi for drilling in concrete.
Im a professional carpenter and i will tell you my m12 fuel hammer drill has saved me many times. I have sds plus and sds max also but that little milwaukee is amazing for small holes for tap cons. For example for a fastener in a basement window jamb the big tool wont fit and the m12 saved my butt
Wished you wouldve came out with this 2 months ago. I have my Dewalt Hammer drill which I thought was sufficient for what I need but biy was I wrong. Ended up upgrading to Makita Rotorhammer Drill.
Wedge anchors will give a much better hold than those blue screws, so the application needs make a big difference. You can also remove and install the bolt on the wedge anchor multiple times without it affecting the threads, where they blue screw will start to wear out the concrete and eventually need either a bigger screw or a new hole.
I’ve never had consistent results with tapcons. I use either wedge or drop in anchors when possible.
3:43 I know a petite woman who designs and builds sets who often uses her Milwaukee cordless on hammer even in wood. She says - and I had never thought of this as a 6-5 dude, of course - she needs that extra oomph because she doesn’t have the leverage/weight/strength. She is, by the way, an excellent carpenter.
Sounds like she is just carpentry challenged. It doesn't take a lot of weight or strength to drill a hole in wood. I strongly question the "Excellent Carpenter" claim.
@@MAGAMAN except for the whole part where you have no idea who I’m talking about, nor have you seen her work. Otherwise, great comment! (Unless your YT account is a parody of the typicalchauvinistic UA-cam commenter. in which case, well done.)
Serious q: Why does TapCon make Philips head cement screws? Just to torture people?
Nice. Which is the strongest, in regard to titans and wedge anchors?
Is it necessary to grease the chuck?
Just wondering do you use epoxy or chemset to hold the inch threaded rod.
DeWalt dust extractor for the SDS cordless hammer drill is only $37 on Amazon right now 87% off
I just burned up a ridgid drill, then a hammer/impact. I bought a milwaukee set this time.
We always drill a quickbolt hole about half an inch longer than the bolt. You can hang anything on the bolt with a rod coupling. When done, drive it back into the hole full depth, drypack the hole and it disappears. Quickbolts are so much more versatile.
I use a big old corded Milwaukee that uses tapered bits. I dont even have to try to sink a hole. Sucks swapping the bits but it laughs at corded tools but man if the bit catches it either breaks the bit or you. Good thing i dont have little noodle arms or it would have broken my wrists a few times.
I love this guy but I'm trying to figure out why he's drilling into what seems to be a decent workbench!
any size thats wider then sds+ shank should use sdsMAX not fun when drill 1" sds+ and bitbinds and snaps.... learnd that on typical fridaynight overtime lasthole 😂
Plumber here...i sometimes gotta drill a 4 inch hole in concrete...sometimes builders forget that the sewage needs to get outta the house somehow and don't put a sleeve in for us when pouring the foundation.
Nice! #TeamRIDGID
Comparable to the spline drive is SDS MAX
Honestly I find the sds an unnecessary middle ground. My dewalt dcd999 will drill 3/4 holes no problem. If I need bigger, I step it up to my bosch demo hammer with the splines. Those 2 tools cover the entire range of anything I ever need.
Happy Fourth of July
does anyone have a experience-based preference on masonry drill bits? seems like they become worn to the point of no longer functioning after 2 or 3 holes. is this normal and just to be expected? or is there a brand or type that lasts much better?
hmm... i probably oughta go see if Project Farm has done them.
I’m an electrician and currently on a parking garage job that requires a ton of use from masonry bits and I love the Milwaukee Shockwave bits, it’s held up great for me. Good luck
you may just be pushing in too fast?
You probably get what you pay for but checking Project Farm first would be my choice to start with. Most masonry bits are carbide and can be resharpened with the correct grinding wheel, they can also be used on on hard steel.
Bring some water keep that bit cool.
I just anchored about 10 6x6 posts to a slab drilling 5/8 holes. Besides breaking one bit after it caught I used the same one the entire time
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
6:47 They were lancing boils a lot more than they were drilling holes, so I’d bring some hydrogen peroxide instead of a hammer drill.
whenever you discuss different tools and their use, I find myself going to Home Depot to check them out. Don't necessarily buy, just look.
Where is your Hilti?
No hilti 😢
First view! First comment! EC is my favorite channel and I’ve been trying to get these accolades for years
I bought $700 worth of Milwaukee rotary hammer and used it only occasionally. After about 10 years, an electric circuit board failed about 2 seconds after I got setup on a job. I called Milwaukee and they said sorry, that circuit board is out of stock and not longer available. The current model that replaces mine cost about $400. I had to rent a Hitachi locally. It was a far better machine so now I own a Hitachi and the like new Milwaukee is in the trash.
Don't use impact to drill through any material that is less than 1" thick. Use diamond.
Those are not 1/8”. Maybe 3/16”. 1/8” masonry bits are tiny!
".....Ben.....world's best son-in-law.." Okay brother, I give up....MY son-in-law is Second Best! 😊
My father -in- law (miss him) called me the best SIL on the east coast. and I was not his only one. reminds me of a Seinfeld episode.
thanks Scott.
If you get a Hilti you will never use any thing else!!!
Absolutely true. A corded Hilti will out-drill any other rotor hammer on the market. Especially with Hilti bits. I’ll gladly drill against any other contractor on the job with my Hilti to make them a believer.
Rigids warranty is awful now they took their repair work out of home depot… dont buy Rigid!
I have to unload 60 tools.
you dont use concrete drills for ceramics..there s special drills for ceramics..and that small hammer drill is crap.for doing holes in concrete..you will destroy it in less then a week using it.. it actually specifices that you should only drill in bricks and mortar ..anything involving concrete ita for sds up to bigger holes then 32mm. when sds plus will do better.. also never use small drill and then big drill for sds..you ll ruin the tip.