GM ignition switch column mounted older style INFO
Вставка
- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- ALL MY VIDEOS are in 1080p SO CHECK THAT OUT
just an idea on how to go through and understand the lower column mounted GM ignition switch found on late 60s to early 90s GM steering column
thanks for watching
Chris (Thanks for the video. It helped me alot): On my 82 Corvette, The B-1, B-2, and B-3, B=Battery) are designed to be hot from the battery, although the B-1 has no connection as Chris has noted. The I-1 terminal (that's "eye-1" for Ignition) is hot in BOTH the start and run position. It goes to lots of stuff (gages, ECM, etc). The I-3 terminal is hot ONLY in the run position and goes to my Power Windows and fan fan. The Accessory terminal is hot in BOTH the Accy and the Run position because that is the power to your radio, wipers, etc. The G-1 (G=Ground) and G-2 terminals are shorted internally. The G-1 has no external connection. The G-2 grounds the Brake warning light (lights it up) in the start position only.
Of course, since this switch is used on lots of GM models for about 15 or so years, it is possible that the terminals are used otherwise, although I can't see how they could be different.
If mine cranks the starter in the S position and continues to crank even when I pull it out of the S position, what's that mean?
Thank You for helping understand EYE-1 as HOT in both Start and Run. Thank You so much.... could this be used a Distributor Cap power PINK WIRE?
Thank you for this. I don't have access to a vehicle to check wires on, just wiring diagrams for them. But I can confirm these switches were used on the full-size Chevy trucks up to 1994, and the two "unused" pins are connected to ground out the engine temp gauge in the dash when starting in 88-94 full-size Chevys. Wiring diagrams refer to this switch as "Bulb Test" or "Bulb Check", and if you're real slow with turning the key, you can activate this mode without cranking. Also, regarding the two opposite mountings, on the trucks at least, one is used on tilt-wheel equipped columns, the other on non-tilt columns. Little interesting tidbit for you! Great video.
OMG! In the first two minutes you were more helpful than every service manual I've looked at! OMG! "Two Detents from the top" means literally nothing to me given the damn thing isn't labeled lol
Wow, you're a good teacher, very thorough, thanks for making this! I have an '84 C20 and I'm having issues with the truck turning off, sometimes after twisting the switch, the truck continues running, it seems to be somewhere in between, then if I turn it back, it'll shut off. I'm guessing this switch is the culprit.
Putting in new harness on my 37 chevy with keyed column ,this was really a big help understanding how this works Thanks
This helped me figure out how to make my damn radiator fan to turn off after shutting the vehicle down!!! Thanks for the straightforward explanation.
I was installing a push button ignition and was trying to figure out which wire to splice into, and this helped a lot. Thanks man
Erich Sparks I neee help I'm installing a push button any advice will help
Hola. Quiero instalar un botón de encendido a un MALIBU 81, me puedes decir cuales son los cables que debo unir para que arranque ? Gracias
Big help!👍first video I found that showed what post is what, without having existing factory colors of wires! Thanks
Thanks Chris .. you da man! This was super helpful.. although I'm afraid I may still need to rebuilt the ignition linkage in the steering column, think I might have a broken rack gear. Plan to purchase a new switch just in case, since it's only $30, but my old one is testing fine so far on the bench thanks to this helpful video!!! (1970 Chevelle SS 396).
great in depth video not sure its the solution to my problem but i wanna figure it out vs running a dash switch in the car although it may be easier and this def has given me in depth look at how the switch it self works and that is exactly what i found in your vid.
Never mind. They are. Love the videos!! There really helping rebuild 70 Monte Carlo.
Awesome video very informative and to the point. I was able to figure out that the parts store sold me a bad starter switch for my 86 Jimmy this way
..I really do understand this switch better!!
That was solid! Thanks for going through it all.
This video was a tremendous help, thank you.
You made the complex easy.
Outstanding sir!! You have help me a lot, I now figured out what was wrong!! I am returning a Pro street S10 back to the road for more fun.
Thanks great video just what I needed for a 79 chevy truck
Your the man! Explanation on point information taken and distributed. Thanks for the knowledge!!
I read that the g1 and g2 get ground to the warning lights in the start position so you can check that the warning lights work and will inform you if there is a problem with the charging, cooling or oil systems.
Very good info. This will get written up and put in my service manual.
Thank you for sharing. Big help!!!
I am glad i saw this. I did a terrible thing to my chevelle and i think this will answer a lot of questions. I put a remote starter switch on the starter so i can do a compression test with out cranking from the steering wheel. What didn't remove the wire that goes to the S terminal and when i turned the engine i believe believe i ran current back into the ignition switch. Sparks were comming from the fire wall where the fuze box was. No fuses are blown. But no crank on the starter, no accessories, and oddly no instrument cluster lights. So i am thinking the switch go damaged. On the fuse pannel there are 3 tabs you can plug into. Battery/Accessories/& ignition. All 3 of these tabs do not have energy. I am wondering if all 3 are routed from the switch.... still doesn't explain the dash panel lights being involved with this.
😳
The ground connection is for bulb test when starting the car.
Great video BTW. I used it to trouble shoot my 69 El Camino.
I got to go out and add 2 wires so my BRAKE warning lamp will light when I start the car.
One from ground to the switch. One from the bulb to the switch.
but the brake warning has its own tan wire and should NOT come on when you start the car
I got mine working now for bulb test during starting. Hooked it up yesterday. Tan wire grounds thru combination valve when brakes fail. Not sure if 69 had the bulb test, but mine does now.
Jerome Crutcher
Thank you so much Chris. You know I am making the switch sample 2nd time now, 1st sample was failed at start, can't go back to on, that cause starter always on. You help me a lot
Hello Chris, May I have you help on some parts I am making? I do reverse engineering and custom manufacturing GM aftermarket parts according to customers' sample, for some parts I know nothing about how they been assembled or mounted to the car. Looking forward to hearing from you
You’re a god for this. So in theory if I were to send 12 volts to B3 then connect B3 to B2.
THEN run my “S” wire from starter straight to “S” on the switch (top right terminal on your diagram) the starter should, in theory kick on when I use the key? Similarly if I run the HEU distributor “bat” wire to “I1” (bottom left of your diagram) that would supply 12 volts to the distributor and turn the engine off when needed with the switch.
Let me know if I’m right or wrong in thinking this, regardless this video has broadened my understanding a TON
yeah, you can run the whole engine straight off this switch
Thank you very much for this video. Very helpful. Thank you!
Hola. Quiero instalar un botón de encendido a un MALIBU 81, me puedes decir cuales son los cables que debo unir para que arranque ? Gracias
Awesome video brother, thank you!
Thank you this is insanely helpful
84 Jimmy won’t start, radio and dash light up but won’t start then drains battery for a bit...I’ve changed the battery bench tested the starter (it work)... God I’m hoping my switch is broken otherwise I have no idea what else to check. This video helped explain how to test it..
it is not the switch... you need to check fusable links.. check neutral safety switch .. jump the starter solenoid .. I will try to make a video about it
@@chriscraft77022 weird thing is I was able to get engine to start by jumping with my neighbors truck as he was reving his truck.
@@chriscraft77022
Exactly what happen with my '74 Camino, sometimes it won't start, and drains the battery pretty fast.
Could it be the neutral safety switch? bad connection?
I have a question, is it possible to run a push start toggle switch through that column or do I need a power switch as well? Great video by the way,
Answer from another youtuber: My 88 Chevy 1500 had orange wire as acc, brown wire as ign, purple as starter. I just googled the wiring harness for the colors. I'm gonna combine the ign. and acc in 1 switch and hide it. Put the push button for starter in the dash. I also had to jerry rig my lights so ill put that switch on the dash as well. Just spliced into the red constant wire and hooked all the switches in series on the power side. Gonna out a 20 amp inline fuse to be safe. All in all not a vwry hard project, just plan everything out. Good luck
Here is a link to a wiring diagram: forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=29246.0
I learned g1 and g2 go to your temp sending idiot light, so when you turn your ignition on it lights up the idiot light for the temp sending unit I think it temporarily sends a ground to the light on the dash so you know the light bulb is still working, What I did was disconnect the green wires going to g2 and spliced them together and i installed a temperature gauge in place of the idiot light.
Thank you so very, very, much. You are a prince. Really. Thanks!
Thanks for the video man helped me out a lot with a 6.0l swap in a k30
What color wire is hot only when cranking and not when engine is running? I've got pink and brown!
..can you advise on what terminal I would connect the the dummy light coming from the #1 terminal of my alternator? Would it be on the "s" terminal?
No you take that wire and direct it straight to light then ground to frame
@@Alexander-ok2hd...so the #1 terminal wire goes to one side of a 194 buld or diode, and the other side of the bulb or diode goes to chassis ground?
Great video, I did learn a lot.
Will I have to tap into one of the b2 or b3 wires to get power to ignition switch from battery. Got an 81 cutlass and need power to my fuse box and lights
at 10:15 you rotate the switch upside down with the original wires on it. I know you said the pink wire 1-1 was for dash lights but////// could it be for the Distributor Cap power at Crank and On "Pink" wire.... Please I must know this.
Great video chris.
You should be a auto tech teacher
Great info...Thanks
Figuring out if my switch is good or not. Question, if the switch is on for ignition, should the acc. terminal show voltage? I've got a crank/ no start in a 92 s10 4.3. Driving it dies like switch shut it off. May start back up, maybe not. Blower and/or headlight switch can kill it. Headlights won't come on running or not. No tail lights,side marker or brake lights. Turn signals work,radio doesn't. Changed relay on far right under hood next to brake booster. Was turning blower on and off key in run position . Blower would do fan speed of 1,2,3. Turn it to 4 ,it would quit and the relay above would buzz. Nerve racking to say the least. Oh yeah this video really helps. Explanation of switch,top notch. Showing difference between switches good to know. Well, I'm off to the S10. Any advice from anyone... Thanks in advance...
G is for alarm systems
Great info thanks
great video...helped me out a lot bro
I've also found that this is the difference between a tilt column and a non tilt column.
Oh brother!
This help me so much!
Will a bad Ignition switch keep a starter solenoid from disengaging? Or is it just out of adjustment?
anything is possible but probably not the issue..
Great video Chris. I am curious if the ignition terminals 1-1 and 1-3 have voltage when the start (s-terminal) is activated. I ask because when changing over from points to HEI distributor, it would be easy to run one 12g wire from the ignition terminal on fuse box to the batt terminal on distributor if it is providing 12volts in both start and run positions, instead of two wires: one for start and another for run . you may be able to explain better than me. thanks for your great videos
1-1 and 1-3 and ACC cut out on start.. ive converted many cars from points to electronic and i use the original wire that goes to + on coil.. you have to check the voltage and make sure it is not resisted down.. if it is, replace it.. if you cant do that i run it off the fuse box on the IGN spade available(make sure it is a 12 G wire) im pretty sure thats what you said you are doing, but you already have an IGN wire coming off the bulkhead connector on the firewall
Chris (Thanks for the video) and Seawes11: On my 82 Corvette, The B-1, B-2, and B-3, B=Battery) are designed to be hot from the battery, although the B-1 has no connection as Chris has noted. The I-1 terminal (that's "eye-1" for Ignition) is hot in BOTH the start and run position. It goes to lots of stuff (gages, ECM, etc). The I-3 terminal is hot ONLY in the run position and goes to my Power Windows and fan fan. The Accessory terminal is hot in BOTH the Accy and the Run position because that is the power to your radio, wipers, etc. The G-1 (G=Ground) and G-2 terminals are shorted internally. The G-1 has no external connection. The G-2 grounds the Brake warning light (lights it up) in the start position only.
Of course, since this switch is used on lots of GM models for about 15 or so years, it is possible that the terminals are used otherwise, although I can't see how they could be different.
Great video very much thankful. Question, I just bought a 1977 Chevy C 10 I will need to move the switch from the column to the dash because my new steering column does not have a key switch can you tell me how to do this or is there any links I can look at thank you very much
does this apply also to gobdys? namely an 83 elco?
HUGE HELP!!!! Thank you
Thanks for the video.
I changed this in my truck cuz it wouldn't start and now it starts but when I pull it out of the S position the starter is still cranking. Any ideas why?
the switches are not mounted in a fixed position.. they slide up and down the column a little.. hopefully yours is out of adjustment .. loosen it up and push it in the opposite direction.. that’s where I would start
learned a lot thanks
My 69 GTO will start fine, but the engine will not shut off when I move the key back to the off position. I can even take the key out and the engine still runs. I cover the carb to starve the engine of air. Once the engine is off, my Gen and Oil lights stay lit. I disconnect the battery to turn the Gen and Oil lights off and keep the battery from draining. If I reconnect the battery, the lights come on, the engine starts, but then the process repeats. Any ideas on what may be happening? Maybe ignition switch? How do I test the ignition switch to see if it is ok. Thanks.
watch my gm 3 wire alternator video
( old one with Chevelle ) you need diode probably or the wires are switched
Awesome video
This Was a MAJOR Help!! Thanks a Million!!
Just have no idea why it don't have 12v from key on acc
Thank you for this video. I'm about to replace one on my brothers g20 as the ACC is not working. Is it easy to find a model number without removing the bloody thing? (The car still works so we would like to keep it that way until we have a new switch)
What I need is new steering wheel wiring there’s eight different wires
Ah this video explains exactly what I needed to see. So what is the Ignition Switch Rack Reload Spring for within the column?
So the start will move out of start
One question. Is accessory pin hot when switch is in ignition/run position?
yes..
Thanks
I believe Ignition Switch is my problem,87 el camino cranks no start,I checked voltage on pink wire when cranking and reads 8 volts
there are 20 things that can be the problem.. it is usually never the ignition switch.. check spark first at #1 cylinder
Oh I just did my timing chain/water pump/distributor with coil/spark plugs/Im at TDC good spark but when I crank voltage reads 8 volts coming from ignition switch pink wire
@@royandrade2929 well, then make a jumper wire from the battery to the distributor BAT.. and see if it starts like that before you try to change the ignition switch.. the problem is that you have not started the engine.. get it started first.. then confirm the ignition switch is bad,,
Didn't think of that ,will do thsnks
Good job men.
Are you sure that B1 is additional power or The starter circuit ? Maybe. Because in run position and start position there would haft to be power to the coil. Right or am I wrong ?
On my 82 Vette, B-1 is just an additional unused terminal (perhaps used on a different GM model). B-1, B-2, and B-3 are connected internally.
Chris, your video saved my azz! THX again!
Why does both B-3 & B-2 have to have B+ power? Is it necessary?
Does G1 and G2 get wired to the starter relay?
I did notice that my ignition switches are positioned differently on each column would that be the problem?
Which one would i tap into when connecting the 12v ignition wire (pink) for a holley sniper efi. Im guessing pink to pink ???
yes pink
How to put ignition switch back in a 1972 impala
Hey Chris, I have a 72 caprice that I want to put a chrome steering column in that I ordered from kegs. When I plug it up it spins the motor over but won’t start. I plug the factory column back up and it cranks. Do you know what might be causing this issue?
I don’t know anything about after market steering columns...look at the two switches and see if a pin is in a different place than original.. you may have to move a wire in plug
Thanks
How can you know if you have a bad switch ? Is it bad if the voltage reads at 10 volts if I'm testing it the same way ?
compare it to the voltage on the battery if it’s low check the resistance in continuity mode .. the switch is bad if the battery is reading different ...
Would it be a good idea to run the HEI from the ignition accessory?
no
Hi ... i have a question is possible that the ignition switch get stuck on ignition possition...cuse my starter keeps on even with the key off and out...notice just the gear spinning but it doesn't push the gear to crank i had to disconnect the negative cable from the battery.... starter selenoid went bad? Or neutral possition safety switch is bad? Need help please
of course they can stick...they have a spring in the solenoid that can break... if i had a starter stick.. i would get a new one... or another one.. just what i think,, the switch can stick too, but not likeley... try jumping the starter with a trigger or screwdriver to check the bad solenoid spring first..
Great video, my question is can't I just test for continuity for each of the circuits?
some of those parts have a thermal switch that has to get voltage to complete the circuit.. I’m not sure if this one does but I have wasted a lot of time only checking continuity when it needed to be tested hot
Thanks
Happy Father's Day buddy
Tiene que ver con que no genera carga a mi bateria
Are these inner changeable?
Hey chris quick question does b3 and b2 HAVE TO HAVE 12 v batter going to each terminal, i have batt running to b2 and i get voltage on b3 b2 and b1. I have my starter hooked up but wont crank ,i put direct voltage to the s and starts fine wondering if ignition switch is faulty, it is brand new but my experience with aftermarket parts they fail as well out of the box
make sure neutral safety switch is in the right position first
Checked it and its in the right position i add voltage before nss and starts fine
I’m talking about the neutral safety on the vehicle
Yes i know exactly which one you are talking about its the half moon nss switch on the bottom of the column you starter wire runs to that and from there on to your starter when in parks allows the voltage to travel to the starter , like i said before the nss switch i add voltage and it starts fine, if nss wasnt positioned right vehicle would not start
If you are putting 12v directly to the S (solenoid) terminal, which is what the switch is designed to do... and the starter cranks, then you definitely have a bad ignition switch.
Hello I need help with the green one
That's a good video man.
So easy a caveman could do it.
What does the little green wire control?
it's in the video but dimmer if I remember correct..
Check this out everytime I ask too see something never fails don’t show the connection I need
Hello Chris, May I have your contact information? could you please help on some parts I am making? I do reverse engineering and custom manufacturing GM aftermarket parts according to customers' sample, for some parts I know nothing about how they been assembled or mounted to the car. Looking forward to hearing from you
could this ignition switch going out stop my car from turning over please help ??
it could... but most likely not..
Chris Craft thanks
dude thanks
Where is it located on steering colum
right under the dash on the outside upper part of the steering column
Chris Craft I have a 77 GMC Sierra 2500 3/4, will my switch be down there also? And do I need to dissemble the column? Or can I just see it if I get low enough.
Lol Arcade Fire at minute 4:00
I changed mine and now I'm stuck in park
they have that metal rod on the steering column that fits in .. did you make sure and get that back in right? if that metal rod is hung up it will keep your ignition stuck in park for sure.. the switch also can be adjusted.. it does not just go back in 1 fixed place
😢
Podrían traducirlo a español
Them are I
Dump the background music......very annoying
Thanks for this, Very helpful!