AK Build- Part 6- Heat Treat
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2024
- Today we spot heat treat the receiver.
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This is one of the many reasons why I love AK's. Building them is so much more interesting, challenging and fun compared to assembling an AR.
agreed plus you get this feeling when your shooting it on the range like fuck i made this shit instead of milling out an alluminium frame
Not to mention, no milling needed for the reciever!
Yeah but it take so much tooling that it's not worth it unless you're going to make like 5 of them... :/
@@magicstix0r AR? For now yes possibly. I am however currently working on making an AK from sheet metal bent with mild steel bar stock, angles and bolts, and it shouldn't be too hard to do the same thing with an AR.
@@CantoniaCustoms No, it only takes a wrench and a hammer punch set to make an AR... An AK takes a shop press, drill press, possibly a spot welder, MAPP gas, special riveting tools, headspace gauges, hammers, reamers...
After hardening the steel , it is cleaned to bright metal again. Then slowly brought up to straw color, not gray. The metal is placed in an furnace/oven or insulation and allowed to cool slowly. You destroyed the hardness with your “tempering”.
What is “straw” color?
@@danielberry7702 yellow.
Note for future.....you can get these weird crayon-like sticks that melt at different temps......you can use one of those if you want to get it more exact.......
Noted, I'll try them in the future.
@@BabyFaceP if the carbon , is below. 45%heating it 1250 ie bright red and water quenching will have no effective avantage . However when you heat the two ends of the thru rivets they need to turn dull red to become stress relived. Please refer to the liquid solid chart for carbon and temp as it will help you out . Ie body center to face center molecule carbon. In witch heat treatment accours simply put magnetic to none magnetic . Nice insight into how to put it together. Thanks
You can build a small forge out of anything for instance a coffee can or better yet a 20lb propane tank lined with Kaowool and refractory cement, i personally think you would benefit from one.
Heating and letting it cool is called annealing bud tempering is heated and then fast cool
Harvesting SE AK omg I thought I was insane for second and had everything backwards fucking with my head baby face
You are half right. You’re right about annealing. It’s heating followed by slow cool. Heating, followed by a fast cool, or quench, is called heat treating. THEN, you temper by bringing it back up to a lower temperature to remove some embrittlement. Some people mistakenly consider the whole process of heat treating and tempering as tempering, but they are separate processes. Heat treating makes the metal harder. Tempering makes the metal softer and less brittle. You cannot temper metal that has not yet been heat treated.
Quenching in water is a good way to get stress fractures in the metal.
I thought it was odd.. don’t you use oil for heat treating?
Right on time baby face p, my day off. Very nice, I can watch it now.....Salute!!!
first quence is use a motor oil , but i see your point in quickness, im not in a race to finish, i just like to take my time in building
I would love to tackle an AK build one of these day's. Going to have to learn a lot more from you.
You know I work with metal and if you're quenching that in water you're not hardening anything questioning water makes metal brittle unless you're doing a brine quench and even then it's not advisable when you quench I recommend oil and the oil should be roundabout 170°, no less than 130
I’m going to be attempting an AMD 65 build in the future and your videos are very helpful so thank you.
These are super informative and extremely well presented.
I think the bluing looks badass...I would like one just cleared over bluing.
It's coming together nicely. Good content
With the ease of heat treating and availability of flats I think I might start branching away from the 10-12week wait pre heat treated blanks, not that they are terrible just too long. Now I need to find. A good bending die and spot welder
7 months alter.. did you ever make the move?
You're a hero dude
Easy way to tell when your up to temp put a magnet to it and if the magnet isn't attracted to the metal its up to the proper temperature
dont use water. use oil. water will give microcracks way too severe. no metallurgist would ever use water.
and now that i saw your quench, you let it cool.. just squirt oil on the hole. you are not heat treating anything pal, trust me i know. test it with a file.
Need more AK
I know I know. I need the money for another parts kit :p
good stuff and nice ODG BFP shirt !
This kid has not been sacrificed to the front line, because he is an actor and a coward. Russia has been completely justified in its military operation. The West is evil.
Nice.
Great video. I was looking at kilns on Facebook market place the other day, used they are pretty cheap. Couple hundred bucks for one that could fit a ak
After the shaping of the body many AK builders do a treatment in a high temperature oven, of the whole body of the AK, I see that you have not done it, how come? Thanks Fabio.
Cerakote?? NO NO NO ya godda get a Quality Bluing like the Old Polytech Legends and the Norico's!!
Your comment section was at 99. I decided to make it an even 💯
i get y ur using water otherwise it would be such a pain to keep cleaning the oil of i personally like quenching it in oil and doing a full heat treat
Very cool.
شكرا 👍
I’d love to build an AK, but financially it doesn’t make sense since I’d only build 1 or 2 at the most.
I'm here just because I played csgo and would love to see AK47 | Case Hardened in real life. And this is quite interesting
If you were to create a receiver flat/blank from scratch using 4130 .040” metal, would it be preferred to start with Annealed, Normalized, or heat treated sheet metal?
The local metal warehouse sells them in the following 3 options.
Annealed. It will be the softest. Normalized would also work. Don’t use heat treated. It will either snap while bending or just spring back.
Any down sides to spot treating versus the entire thing?
I might have a pottery kiln to use in the future. I think they get up to like 2200
I've not shot any gun enough to notice a difference. If you have access to a kiln I'd say go for the full heat treat.
Great video, great editing, great content! This is the future. Will be subscribing.
Ooooh fuck yeah! Thank!
I have Childers receiver for a Chinese AK I need to finish building just need to locate the rest of the parts to finish it
What are you missing?
If I don't find the gas block and tube I'm going to end up using Romanian parts and rpk barrel
make an ak that shoots sub moa with 762x39
What about heat treating the ejector before you spot weld it?? Is that a good idea?
You're going to add some heat back to it with the spot welding, so after is probably better, but honestly I don't know.
Evan batterman below me how would your life not depend on the function of your gun ?
Qual e o segredo pra fazer isso
So you don't have to heat treat the rest of the river?
Can toy please make another AK building series? 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Going to add a side folder soon.
I'm no metalurgist, but is the difference between heat treating and annealing the quench?
Heat treating involves bringing a metal up to critical temperature, then quickly with in a period of time cooling the metal which freezes the crystalline structure. This process makes the metal super hard but brittle. Its then tampered by bringing the metal up to a specific temperature for a different hardness levels for a time period dependent on material. Doing this allows the crystalline structure to relax a little so that it's not as brittle. Annealing is taking a hardened metal and bringing it up to critical temperature then allowing it cool slowly. The required time for it to cool is specific to each alloy.
What if you dont quench it?
I love these videos and it's so awesome he's done this for all those curious. But water? Please use oil, unless I'm mistaken. CALL ME OUT, most steals and alloys do not do well with water... 😓
thats what I was thinking
Actually allot of steels are hardened in water, only a select few utilize oil or air quench
Do you know what rockwell the receiver has to be?
I have a lee enfield number 4 mark 1 the bolt needed replaced and bolt head .the locking groovs in reciever is very worn def worn through case hard .my question is would u recomend me doing this to it so headspace dont go bad again or do u think it would be to risky .
Don’t you have to dip it in oil for heat treating?
You should probably quenched it on oil
Is that a forged trunnion
Do you have to heat treat if you bought an 80% and not a flat.
Do the rails need to be heat treated as well?
yes
👍
You ever mill a receiver?
Some metal will shatter like glass when quenched in water, like 15n20 or L6 if heated cherry red and quenched in water will shatter. Idk what kind of steel them receivers are made from tho, do you know? Im just curious
4130
Question, I'm close to building my ak and want to leave the "battle worn" parts with the original finish so I would like to cerakote the receiver alone without the trunions riveted in and then match the finish. Do you think the heat treating or rail welding would warp the receiver if I only installed the center support before cerakoting and reamed pin holes, then rivet in trunions after all that? Just don't want to ruin a $50 receiver if I don't have to. Thanks, Bill
Bend the receiver, spot heat treat carefully, paint, then build.
BabyFace that's easy as pie. Someone at a shop quoted me 250 to heat treat. You dont need to do the whole reciever and trunnion holes?
This has worked for all of my builds.
no on the trunnion holes
How do you mill out the safety selector hole?
all flats already have the safety hole cut
hello does the third hole and the shaft make the ak47 machine gun, safer to shoot though.
That third hole with the correct parts, can make the gun full auto. But unless you have an ATF Tax Stamp, just having that hole drilled, even without the parts, makes it legally a machine gun, and will land you in jail, and will cost you a fortune in legal fees and fines.
That shaft is the center support not a third hole the third hole on an ak if in the right place will make it an MG. This doesn't have the third fcg hole.
Is this required for all receivers? I got a nodak spud NDS-1 receiver.
Your nodak has already been heat treated.
@@BabyFaceP one more question. The receiver is a unpainted reciever that is showing some rust. Can you advise on what I should do about the rust and what coating is the best? Thanks!
@@Nessal83 Use a bit of CLP or equivalent, and some 00 or 000 steel wool for the rust, and there are a many types of coatings with their own advantages and costs. You can ceracote, blue, parkerize, etc.
Was wondering if its possible to case harden that receiver
I've seen it done before
is heat treating required?
Please dont "heat treat" like this....
You really UNIFORM heating to a specific temperature for a specific amount of time to achieve the required hardness.
This is more like "hey its harder than it was" . Then theres the whole relaxing grain structure with annealing. But that another thing in itself.
Differential heat treatment is a legitimate thing, especially in AKs from what I've read
Quench it in water??? 🤦🏼♂️