i'm skeptical that you're using the tight vent 90 elbows instead of the regular or long sweep 90s. I guess I'll go with the same fittings because of your follow up comment.
I highly advise using the long radius if you can make that work. Or at least try some 45 degree to avoid what I ended up with. I just couldn't find a workable option with what I had, and it was off spec to begin with. That said, I had the benefit of a deep drop and I think that has prevented any clogging. Good luck 🤞
@@jonparkmac Oh boy, my spacing and set up is about identical as yours. Except that I need to move 6 inches to the left. I initially bought all elbow kinds available from HD- 22, 45, 60* to play with. Spent a whole night but none of them work. I'm thinking the same logic too that I have about 10" of drop. Plus, in the event that's it's clogged because of the tight 90s, at least it's right at the opening but not far down the line so it's easier to address. Great job and thanks for the vid, Jon
Yeah, that was exactly how I salvaged my conscience. I always consider a worst case scenario and dealing with a clog at floor level isn't a concern for me.
@@jonparkmac I was talking with a friend about doing this. He said any time you move the toilet you have to move the vent pipe or you risk having problems with it flushing. Can you share any information on this please?
@Lucky Duck your friend is correct, but only if you move it several feet. And you don't have to move or remove the existing vent. Just make sure 'some' vent is within a few feet of the flange, even if you have two vents that's fine..
Nice job Johnathan, thanks for posting this. Great tip for all the DIYers out there showing how to make witness marks on the fittings. Put everything together "dry" without glue first to get the position of the pipe where you want it, mark it and then glue it up. My 40 years working with PVC and ABS pipe tells me you've got some great experience doing this kind of work.
Excellent and well-produced video. It should be beneficial for DIYers contemplating doing this project. Thank you for not adding any music. When I did mine, I used the 'slow set' PVC glue which allowed me extra time to properly align the fittings. At backfill time, I dampen the soil with water and use the handle of a hammer to pack the fill.
As I keep telling you ..it's level ..and been rock solid for 3 years. It's sad you keep obsessing over your critique ..somehow trying to make something out of nothing..smh.
If I only learned one thing from this video it was marking lines on the plumbing fixtures before gluing. How did I not know this before?? Awesome, thanks.
Considering the outlet of a toilet is only about 2 1/4", this double 90 set of with 4" pipe works because the velocity of the flush at that point. The same setup downstream where the velocity is far less would be more problematic. The real down side to this setup is killing the velocity of the discharge too early in the pathway. Fortunately, the pipes get more liquid than solid on a daily basis and it all works out. Usually. I would have extended the pipe and cut flush to the tile, then add metal flange on top of the tile.
Thanks for the polite and respectful critique. This is what I had been thinking. The two bends are so close it doesn't impede as much as it would seem. I could have done better with some 45s. It's been over 3 years daily usage and never a single issue ..that includes solids. I cut the pipe flush because I used an inside flange and the flooring was thin nucore. I measured all that before I cut. Flange fit perfect. Any higher would not have worked. Tile would have been much thicker so your right. Thanks again for the insight.
Yessir. I got some good fair criticism in the comments. Don't cut any rebar if it's pretentioned, pour sand and water to pack down the dirt better. And most of all, use a long sweep fitting. I couldn't make that work without significantly more work. Good luck!
This is a great video, thank you. Does a vapor barrier really accomplish much at this point? It seems that once it has been pierced that moisture will find a way through the path of least resistance around the barrier.
Great work, I have a drain problem with a rotted out copper drain pipe going through concrete. Though not the exact same job most of the work with the concrete is the same; breaking up the concrete, digging out the dirt etc.
Yes you can. But you'll need to cover up any thing underneath like wooden Jesus statues, children's train sets, live babies or animals, and daddy's secret toy box.
Residential code requires it to prevent vapor and gas seeping up into living area. On a small hole you don't need it. I added only because it was there when I dug the hole ..so I put it back like it was
Where was the building inspector when the builder's plumber did such an incompetent job? As mentioned by others, this is a very clear video on under the slab plumbing. I'm trying to put a plan together to tie in an attic bathroom to a bathroom below and following along on how this fellow is moving the waste line in invaluable. With the other videos available here I know I can do the job correctly.
That's a good question. This house was built in 1995 and the inspections were poorly done or not done at all. For instance, the perimeter foundation drain pipe connected back to itself forming a closed ring. Smh
I have a back up problem and water coming out of shower. I rented the auger and hit it in all holes especially the toilet where the problem is and still no go, I think it got worse now. Thinking what else to do, possibly the camera to see what it is
Could be further out toward the street. I had one clogged from girls using wet wipes that got stuck on roots inside the pipe. It was 50 ft out away from house. Call a plumber.
Building code requires it so gas and moisture doesn't permeate living areas. For a small hole like this ..might be overkill .. but since it's easy why wouldn't you ? Plus ..when I cut thru ..it had the plastic barrier
when the angle makes it difficult to makes marks on the different pipe pieces , i use a piece of painters tape make a mark long enough to include both pipe pieces i am joining and then place it on the pipe. Then use a razor blade to cut the point where the joints separate so should have a piece of tape on both joints with the markings.
It depends. If it is "tensioned" rebar you don't want to cut it. If it's just reinforcement mesh it's probably ok. But I'm no expert. I would advise you to seek guidance from a professional and have it scanned first.
I can't say ..but I'd at least think it would be much harder due to cutting steel and getting fittings to work. You likely need to open up a much larger area to have more pipe to work with.
I wish you were near me, i need this done, i have iron waste stack and access to a basement. I need mine moved over a few inches and turned around 45 degrees
A shop vac works great for removing loose dirt in small areas like that. Likely more efficient than a little shovel. You can still recycle the dirt that way too.
Not sure about the US but in Australia there are approved adaptor fittings available that fit on standard 100mm sewer pipes which will allow a shift to a wc connection that is out of position without having to chop through the concrete floor. Not sure how far they extend but it allows a much easier repositioning of a wc pan than this labourious method.
They call it an offset flange and it's only good for a few inches. This one actually had that because it was too close to the wall. They are a terrible solution since they impede flow. I would never use a shoddy hack like that. Suck it up and break it up, let gravity do it's thing. Thanks for your comment mate!
@jonparkmac Yes the adaptors have limited application and do constrict the outflow to some extent . However I would recommend their use whenever possible by DIY ers as an alternative to the possible damage caused to the structural integrity of the concrete slab. Particuarly if reinforcing is cut by inexperienced persons. There are innumerable situations where this could end up being a serious problem for the home owner and at the very least a qualified or highly experienced building professional should be consulted before any destructive penetration of a structural concrete floor is started. Reinforcing in concrete is there for a reason and it indicates that the floor is integral to the structure of the building. And yes it's a great video on how to save money by doing things that are normally very expensive yourself. However do it with caution and the correct knowledge and/or advice.
@@andrewwatson5360 agreed. That's why I didn't cut the rebar and it in the middle of the house. I think you'd agree a small hole like this compared to a large trench are very different things. What I did had 0 consequences on the integrity of the slab. But yes these are all important to consider before going buck wild with a jackhammer
IRC (International Residential Code) is for the toilet to be a minimum of 15" from a side obstruction to the center of the toilet. ADA states 16" min to 18" max.
When we moved in our new home, one toilet was 10.5” away from the wall of a remodeled shower that had been added after the original plumbing went in the house. That’s measuring from the middle of the toilet seat so should be center of drain pipe. It looks kind of ridiculous really. The tile in there is the same as the hallway and living room. Are there any tips that would make it easier to save existing floor tile or is it a given that we will need to just re-tile the entire bathroom? Patched floor after the drain move wouldn’t be seen so much since it would be out of view when entering the bathroom. Does the jackhammer tend to crack or break the nearby floor tiles? Thanks.
You'll for sure crack the tile and there is usually a backer board on top of plywood then the concrete slab. What you can do tho is carefully break up the tiles near the zone, cut thru those layers, then jackhammer the slab. Give yourself lots of room. Then when done replace the tile with new same style/color. Or, just take all the tile out and replace ..maybe with a new contrasting color. But do know there is a layer of plywood between that tile and the slab
Just curious and remember, I know nothing about plumbing, but when you discovered that the original plumber that laid the PVC and yet it was not plumb, when you discovered that after the original cut. Would it have been possible, instead of digging deeper to access the elbow, could you have just cut the pipe at an opposing angle and have the two pieces…regardless of not plumb in and of themselves, after your, so called corrective cut to bring the angle true and plumb, could that have been a possible solution? Like I said, I am trying to learn and understand better about this technique but I just figured I would ask. Thanks if you reply
Hard to follow what you mean. But the original plumbing had 3 issues. One was using a vent 90 and the other was it wasn't level, and finally wasn't positioned properly from adjacent walls and plumbing. However you do it, try to make a long sweep 90 work.
@@jonparkmaclol….re-reading what I wrote I can say I understand what you mean about it being hard to understand what I mean. But I still thank you for your response
@@adde32332 that's true ..I could not locate an outside flange with metal ring so what I did when you think about it's make an outside flange . Same end result.
@@jonparkmac I know that people do it both in the uk and us but is it the recommended jointing method by the glue/ solvent cement manufacturers or something that plumbers have came up with themselves.
Yes. Directions from cement manufacturer, right on the can. No one made it up. www.oatey.com/faqs-blog-videos-case-studies/blog/how-complete-perfect-solvent-cement-joint-every-time
What part of the USA do you live in? Is it only allowed to solvent weld or you can use pushfit as well? In Europe for buried pipes in concrete we're only allowed to use pushfit because of the vibration the building is subject to (settlment). They might crack the glue joint.
You never dry fit pipes. European laws are made by idiots that don't work in construction. If you just push the pipes together without glue, what will happen when the ground shifts? the pipes come apart. Pipes are glued and you pack the fill under the pipes with gravel crush to account for settlement .
Better to cut flush with finish floor instead like I did. That's why rouged in drains are not cut. More glued area, better joint. I did use an inside flange. ✌️
I have this to do as well. a contractor put my flange 19-20" from the wall and beside my shower. If you want it done right, you have to do it yourself. Are all those bends ok? I'm going with a 22 and 45 degree to be less aggressive with the turns
No, my bends are not ok. Better to reduce the number bends and use long radius. I just could not get anything to work for my app. However ... Flushing awesome !
Yep. When there's a 1 inch space between the potty seat and tub and you are remodeling a bathroom .. leaving it like that is not a very good remodel now is it ? 👍
Never leaks and never clogs. Best turlet in the whole house. It's seen lots of buritos and steak dinners and massive piles of TP from in-laws and kids friends
@@jonparkmacI was going to ask the same thing about clogs because I was worried that the twists and turns could be a source of clogs. Thanks for answering and great job! You definitely earned those steak dinners 😂👍
Yeah that's a standard way to do it, just be sure to consider the flooring thickness and the flange you want to use. Flange has to be tight against the flooring and seat down tight into pipe at same time.
I don't think so. But this job is able to pass a massive turd and half roll of TP from my father-in-law in one flush with no clog. Best throne in the house right now.
Hell..especially not the vent 90 he used…this was a cluster fuck of a job…totally illegal in every jurisdiction I know of..I’m a plumber of 28 years..too bad he has so many people on here that look like they will be making the same mistakes
@@jashby9736 you guys are over-exagerating this. It never clogs in almost 2 years. If it did, the elbo is right there 10" away so a child could unclog it. If it were further away I wouldn't have used those.
This is very similar to what I want to do. However, bit concerned on the 90 degree elbows. Did you see any flush/drain issues? Ideally these should be long sweep elbows? Please advise. My drain size is 3inch. A 1/4 bend or vent elbow like above will save me some space (for wall hung toilet).
Long elbow if you can get it to fit. In hindsight I could have used some other fittings and avoided the 90s I think. But it flushes good since it has a deep drop.
One of the best DYI Home improvement Videos I have seen. a couple question. How far did you move it ? How much further could you have if you wanted to ?
Hi, Mr. McClure. Could it be possible to extend the main drain pipe (the straight horizontal one where you connected the first elbow) so as to have the toilet moved across the room? I consulted with a local contractor and he said the bathroom floor has to be elevated 7 inches, I don't really understand why, though. Thank you!
He may be correct. You need slope of 1/4 inches per foot or solids will settle and clog. It's also code for that reason. If he said 7 inches .. that would be 28 feet!! How far do you need to move it across the room?
A plumber told me you always put the glue on the piece being pushed inside the other piece so that any excess glue gets pushed out of the connection to be cleaned up instead of globing up inside of the fittings.
Same process without dirt. And make sure no animals or humans are below. Wooden sculptures, old golf bags, plastic plants and cardboard boxes will be fine tho
I am confused. You said 12" from the back wall and 18" from the side. You measured 12" straight to the closest edge of the pipe from the back. From the side if you do the same you only have 14" according to your tape measure (if you go to the closest edge of the pipe). Even if you measure to the far side (which it seems to be the measurement you are relying on... you only have 17". It's either 4" too short from the side or it's 1" too short from the side. Why the from the back its to the closest edge of the pipe and from the side its the furthest?
I'm not sure if it's that or just plain rebar for strength. I'd be surprised if PT considering all the other shortcuts and low skill work done on this house.
Nothing floats or balances on any joints here. The toilet is supported by the flooring and concrete, not the fitting. The flange just seals up to the toilet and does not support weight. It is screwed down into the concrete with 4 concrete screws.
i have heard people say that if you reposition, it's best to use the old fashioned wash-down toilet instead of the new siphon toilet.. did you or anyone else hear about that?
Reposition dosent change much for that. Flushdowns more common in Europe. They are less likely to clog in the toilet, but louder, need more cleaning, and I've read .. a little stinky since turds are not submerged lol
@@jonparkmac strange in certain country all the major vendors incl sales of Toto American Standard either in shops or online etc all advise customers against using Siphonic in the case of reposition. i thought this was unfounded just hearsay becoming truth.
I couldnt get that to work. I think it pushed it too far out from the wall. But I should have tried a little harder with other fittings agree. Been trouble free for 4 years now.
yeah... People, please dont do what this guy did. I'm a plumber and have been since 2008. The fitting and the way he configured / used them violates many plumbing rules/regulations. For one you can have that many 90's that close together. it will cause drain issues. Second if a plumber would ever need to cable the drains from the toilet flange he would not be able to now because all the close 90's. Third the fitting themselves are incorrect. When you do use 90's for drins line this it should be longsweep. the exception to this is the toilet but only on sharp turn. By the look of this video he used three sharp 90 turns. People just call a plumber you will save yourself money in the long run.
Thanks for your professional and objective opinion. I agree with what you've said. You can surely snake this and it also flushes strong after 3 years and daily use, never a clog. Code violation was present already because the original plumbing had a vent 90. That said I support your opinion and thanks for commenting.
Sorry about that brutha .. it was sooo dusty and would be hard to film. It's a firearm workout. Trick is to do small sections or the tip sticks and pull your nuts trying to get it unstuck.
There is no last level check once glued and the concrete is poured. It's either true and level or it's not. Have to get it right since there's no way to adjust any of this.
@@jonparkmac there is a 3 inches pipe coming up the hole. I ended up cutting it inside the hole. Now i need to drill the concrete around it to get to it. The question i have is can i put a 4 inches pipe on top of the 3 inches coming up. Would that work? And will the prime and glue make the seal since water will always hit the edges. If you have an email i can send you a pic or a video. Thanks in advance
@@Lifesituations8000 you can't put a 4" pipe over a 3" pipe and expect it to seal properly. Better to use an adapter fitting. That said if it's cleaned primed and glued it may work. I would be sure to bevel the inside edges so it won't catch TP and terds
@@jonparkmac WOW! $1500-$2000. I realize that's just an estimate and I thank you for that info. Is that like a day's work? Sounds like a good amount of money for a day. Going through a remodel pretty soon, so the place will be dirty anyway. Great video! Great info!! Thanks
You could jackhammer the concrete and dig it out yourself and leave the actual plumbing to a pro if you want to save money. They hate breaking up concrete and charge you accordingly. Doing all the concrete work yourself and just having the plumber do the pipe work will definitely save you money and the plumbing will be to code. ( If that's important in your area.) I've done several of these and it's not that bad. Good video.
If you take a heat gun set to high and heat the pipe up at the joint it will loosen the joint and you can twist the connected elbow off without losing that extra length of pipe.
I'm skeptical of that since cement actually melts the PVC together and its not like glue you can disolve. Heat would literally melt the pvc. Plus getting heat all the way around a 3" pipe down in the dirt like that ... more practical to cut it
I agree 💯. Thank you for saying that .. and not being a jerk about it. I just recently told a viewer to get a professional to look for that before cutting anything.
Concrete inspector here, and boy is this completely wrong. Never ever ever ever put plastic sheeting in between your gravel and your slab. Moisture NEEDS TO BE ABSORBED from your aggregate into the slab immediately. YOUR work will crack and cure improperly. With that being said, when you compact your dirt, and then gravel, you should be applying water so the aggregate, sand and dirt compact better, and leave moisture to be absorbed by the slab. Unbelievable what people put on you tube. I’d fail your project and require tear out The end of the video says keep concrete wet for 5 days, completely untrue and unnecessary. What are you going to do, flood your basement in 2 inches of water until a DIY’er thinks it’s cured? No. No. No
You are clearly no inspector. The slabs for residential all have 6 mil plastic under it to prevent moisture, dampness and gases seeping up in living areas. This is required by code. Keeping concrete moist 7 days is a well known curring process. Since you don't know either of those (or refuse to believe them) your comments have little merit.
The 90's that you used may be to direct of bend and may cause backups. With 45's it wouldn't be such hard direct bends. This causes the waste to be left behind cause the water 💧 drains easily and the waste gets left behind and the next flush must push it and the waste left behind from the previous flush eventually causing a backup. Nice clean work but wouldn't use 90's... I've done LOTS of these in my 25 year's of plumbing. People usually remove a narrow tub in place of a stand up shower and they want it wider putting the toilet to close and it would work out by moving toilet center
I like how you are talking about keeping the pipe smooth to avoid clogs while gluing together 4 vent 90's for a toilet lol Guarantee you "Plumbers are over priced" is something this fella's said many times. Good luck to the poor service guy that winds up coming out to unclog that thing, Thats a zero warranty unclog every single time, cant even get a camera through that abomination.
Your over exaggerating but point taken. Been a year of lots of digested steak and TP and flushes like a rocket. 99% of clogs occur in the toilet trap as it's only 2.5 "". If it did clog there, it's 10" away and a 3" pipe so only a moron would not be able unclog it. There's a clean-out hub on the other side of the wall as well.
And yes, dishonest plumbers are way overpriced and take advantage of homeowners that have no idea. This is a 2 hour job at most and $1500 comes out to about $700/hr for simple work. So yeah DIY is king
Here's the final results. Perfect install and flushes strong and no clogs after 4 years. photos.app.goo.gl/xd5saxVMipNrr1ui7
i'm skeptical that you're using the tight vent 90 elbows instead of the regular or long sweep 90s. I guess I'll go with the same fittings because of your follow up comment.
I highly advise using the long radius if you can make that work. Or at least try some 45 degree to avoid what I ended up with. I just couldn't find a workable option with what I had, and it was off spec to begin with. That said, I had the benefit of a deep drop and I think that has prevented any clogging. Good luck 🤞
@@jonparkmac Oh boy, my spacing and set up is about identical as yours. Except that I need to move 6 inches to the left. I initially bought all elbow kinds available from HD- 22, 45, 60* to play with. Spent a whole night but none of them work.
I'm thinking the same logic too that I have about 10" of drop. Plus, in the event that's it's clogged because of the tight 90s, at least it's right at the opening but not far down the line so it's easier to address. Great job and thanks for the vid, Jon
Yeah, that was exactly how I salvaged my conscience. I always consider a worst case scenario and dealing with a clog at floor level isn't a concern for me.
This is without a doubt the best tutorial on how to reposition a toilet in a slab like this! Absolutely brilliant work, mate 👌🏼
I'm glad it helped you. I really try to find a way to fill in the missing detail once I learn it. Happy flushes!
@@jonparkmac I was talking with a friend about doing this. He said any time you move the toilet you have to move the vent pipe or you risk having problems with it flushing. Can you share any information on this please?
@Lucky Duck your friend is correct, but only if you move it several feet. And you don't have to move or remove the existing vent. Just make sure 'some' vent is within a few feet of the flange, even if you have two vents that's fine..
@@jonparkmac Thank you :)
No,, no it’s not ..total illegal plumbing..
Nice job Johnathan, thanks for posting this. Great tip for all the DIYers out there showing how to make witness marks on the fittings. Put everything together "dry" without glue first to get the position of the pipe where you want it, mark it and then glue it up. My 40 years working with PVC and ABS pipe tells me you've got some great experience doing this kind of work.
Appreciate the kind words.
I mark it too. I just remove the marks when I’m done. Don’t want anyone to know I used them lol
Great video. And no background music added, which is a plus!
Glad you liked it!
Excellent and well-produced video. It should be beneficial for DIYers contemplating doing this project. Thank you for not adding any music. When I did mine, I used the 'slow set' PVC glue which allowed me extra time to properly align the fittings. At backfill time, I dampen the soil with water and use the handle of a hammer to pack the fill.
Good idea. I should have used water to better pack that down
As I keep telling you ..it's level ..and been rock solid for 3 years. It's sad you keep obsessing over your critique ..somehow trying to make something out of nothing..smh.
From A - Z you did a professional job .
*Super! Like 4 - 5 hours job* I feel confident to direct a good handymen!!!
Exellent video and a video I'm going to keep and file for future reference. You made it look simple and unintimidated. Thank you.
If I only learned one thing from this video it was marking lines on the plumbing fixtures before gluing. How did I not know this before?? Awesome, thanks.
Oh hell yeah, sometimes it's the little things
Sometimes, being a DIYer is more about learning than doing.
This is the best video on how to fix this kind of problem on your toilet, I have the same problem right now.
You can do it. I should have tried more fitting options like others have pointed out
@@jonparkmac 😘
Great easy instructions on how to move a toilet. Thanks
Very well done. I'm not even sure why I'm watching this ! I love seeing something that takes courage being tackled.
Considering the outlet of a toilet is only about 2 1/4", this double 90 set of with 4" pipe works because the velocity of the flush at that point. The same setup downstream where the velocity is far less would be more problematic. The real down side to this setup is killing the velocity of the discharge too early in the pathway. Fortunately, the pipes get more liquid than solid on a daily basis and it all works out. Usually. I would have extended the pipe and cut flush to the tile, then add metal flange on top of the tile.
Thanks for the polite and respectful critique. This is what I had been thinking. The two bends are so close it doesn't impede as much as it would seem. I could have done better with some 45s. It's been over 3 years daily usage and never a single issue ..that includes solids. I cut the pipe flush because I used an inside flange and the flooring was thin nucore. I measured all that before I cut. Flange fit perfect. Any higher would not have worked. Tile would have been much thicker so your right. Thanks again for the insight.
Nice work, I did the exact same thing for a remodel a few months ago
Bout to do this myself. Its nice seeing the steps :) thank you great video!
Good video...great explanations & camera coverage. I actually feel like I know what to do.
Glad it helped. I do the same thing .. binge on videos until brain believes I've done it before 🤘
This is perfect...I just need to dig into the concrete and level the pipe. Looks easy and cheap to do myself
Yessir. I got some good fair criticism in the comments. Don't cut any rebar if it's pretentioned, pour sand and water to pack down the dirt better. And most of all, use a long sweep fitting. I couldn't make that work without significantly more work. Good luck!
This is a great video, thank you. Does a vapor barrier really accomplish much at this point? It seems that once it has been pierced that moisture will find a way through the path of least resistance around the barrier.
Not real sure. It's easy so I did it anyway.
I’m wondering the same thing. They sell tape for sealing up vapor barrier seams but then I saw him do it without it sooo idk
@@inlinesix6694 seal it up
Great work, I have a drain problem with a rotted out copper drain pipe going through concrete. Though not the exact same job most of the work with the concrete is the same; breaking up the concrete, digging out the dirt etc.
can you do this in the second floor, or only basement, please advice
Yes you can. But you'll need to cover up any thing underneath like wooden Jesus statues, children's train sets, live babies or animals, and daddy's secret toy box.
Very nice work....... Why do you need a vapor barrier before adding the cement?
Residential code requires it to prevent vapor and gas seeping up into living area. On a small hole you don't need it. I added only because it was there when I dug the hole ..so I put it back like it was
Nice job Jonathan. Love your Saxon shirt.
Lol I love Saxon...go to see them recently ..small venue ..such cool dudes. We got to vote on songs ...Eagle has Landed was one 🤘
Where was the building inspector when the builder's plumber did such an incompetent job? As mentioned by others, this is a very clear video on under the slab plumbing. I'm trying to put a plan together to tie in an attic bathroom to a bathroom below and following along on how this fellow is moving the waste line in invaluable. With the other videos available here I know I can do the job correctly.
That's a good question. This house was built in 1995 and the inspections were poorly done or not done at all. For instance, the perimeter foundation drain pipe connected back to itself forming a closed ring. Smh
Thank you so much for your video. I am truly grateful
Thanks for putting this together!! Great video.
My pleasure!
Thank you. About to attempt this myself.
I have a back up problem and water coming out of shower. I rented the auger and hit it in all holes especially the toilet where the problem is and still no go, I think it got worse now. Thinking what else to do, possibly the camera to see what it is
Could be further out toward the street. I had one clogged from girls using wet wipes that got stuck on roots inside the pipe. It was 50 ft out away from house. Call a plumber.
Very useful video. I had the same problem.
Glad it helped
Did you use motar mix or concrete?
Concrete = cement + sand + gravel
Hi, what's the plastic barrier for?
Building code requires it so gas and moisture doesn't permeate living areas. For a small hole like this ..might be overkill .. but since it's easy why wouldn't you ? Plus ..when I cut thru ..it had the plastic barrier
Nice video, thanks!
when the angle makes it difficult to makes marks on the different pipe pieces , i use a piece of painters tape make a mark long enough to include both pipe pieces i am joining and then place it on the pipe. Then use a razor blade to cut the point where the joints separate so should have a piece of tape on both joints with the markings.
Does this weaken the slab foundation? What if the rebar is cut, does that weaken it-do you need to replace the re-bar?
It depends. If it is "tensioned" rebar you don't want to cut it. If it's just reinforcement mesh it's probably ok. But I'm no expert. I would advise you to seek guidance from a professional and have it scanned first.
How does this process change if your drain system is galvanized piping??
I can't say ..but I'd at least think it would be much harder due to cutting steel and getting fittings to work. You likely need to open up a much larger area to have more pipe to work with.
Very nice video thank you Jonathan
I wish you were near me, i need this done, i have iron waste stack and access to a basement. I need mine moved over a few inches and turned around 45 degrees
Iron pipes is a whole other category. I don't have any experience with it, but I know it's much harder to work with
A shop vac works great for removing loose dirt in small areas like that. Likely more efficient than a little shovel. You can still recycle the dirt that way too.
Great tip!
3:33 might night just be rebar, but a tension rod that would mees you up bad if you cut it. Do no't cut them unless you are 300% sure!
Yes that is true. But this is not a post-tension slab. I should have mentioned that
Not sure about the US but in Australia there are approved adaptor fittings available that fit on standard 100mm sewer pipes which will allow a shift to a wc connection that is out of position without having to chop through the concrete floor.
Not sure how far they extend but it allows a much easier repositioning of a wc pan than this labourious method.
They call it an offset flange and it's only good for a few inches. This one actually had that because it was too close to the wall. They are a terrible solution since they impede flow. I would never use a shoddy hack like that. Suck it up and break it up, let gravity do it's thing. Thanks for your comment mate!
@jonparkmac Yes the adaptors have limited application and do constrict the outflow to some extent .
However I would recommend their use whenever possible by DIY ers as an alternative to the possible damage caused to the structural integrity of the concrete slab. Particuarly if reinforcing is cut by inexperienced persons.
There are innumerable situations where this could end up being a serious problem for the home owner and at the very least a qualified or highly experienced building professional should be consulted before any destructive penetration of a structural concrete floor is started.
Reinforcing in concrete is there for a reason and it indicates that the floor is integral to the structure of the building.
And yes it's a great video on how to save money by doing things that are normally very expensive yourself.
However do it with caution and the correct knowledge and/or advice.
@@andrewwatson5360 agreed. That's why I didn't cut the rebar and it in the middle of the house. I think you'd agree a small hole like this compared to a large trench are very different things. What I did had 0 consequences on the integrity of the slab. But yes these are all important to consider before going buck wild with a jackhammer
IRC (International Residential Code) is for the toilet to be a minimum of 15" from a side obstruction to the center of the toilet. ADA states 16" min to 18" max.
Mine is 17" on both sides for the ADA prize
did you use a siphon toilet in the end? saw your comment about it flushing great. thanks.
Siphonic is standard in residential America.
@@jonparkmac i see. it's not a thing then..thanks for replying.
Awesome, that's exactly the combo of joints I needed for my project, hard to visualize without experience
I'd try to do better than what I did ..like long radius and fewer bends.
Nice job. Excellent Video ! Thx.
When we moved in our new home, one toilet was 10.5” away from the wall of a remodeled shower that had been added after the original plumbing went in the house. That’s measuring from the middle of the toilet seat so should be center of drain pipe. It looks kind of ridiculous really. The tile in there is the same as the hallway and living room. Are there any tips that would make it easier to save existing floor tile or is it a given that we will need to just re-tile the entire bathroom? Patched floor after the drain move wouldn’t be seen so much since it would be out of view when entering the bathroom. Does the jackhammer tend to crack or break the nearby floor tiles? Thanks.
You'll for sure crack the tile and there is usually a backer board on top of plywood then the concrete slab. What you can do tho is carefully break up the tiles near the zone, cut thru those layers, then jackhammer the slab. Give yourself lots of room. Then when done replace the tile with new same style/color. Or, just take all the tile out and replace ..maybe with a new contrasting color. But do know there is a layer of plywood between that tile and the slab
Awesome video 🙏
Q. This was ground floor right, so it could work out. Could you please advice for the higher floors?
If you mean higher floor concrete I don't have experience. But if you can work the pipe from the ceiling below then it's way easier.
The waste water pipe is "embedded" in the floor concrete. I don't see any sign of it from anywhere in or around the structure.
Just curious and remember, I know nothing about plumbing, but when you discovered that the original plumber that laid the PVC and yet it was not plumb, when you discovered that after the original cut. Would it have been possible, instead of digging deeper to access the elbow, could you have just cut the pipe at an opposing angle and have the two pieces…regardless of not plumb in and of themselves, after your, so called corrective cut to bring the angle true and plumb, could that have been a possible solution? Like I said, I am trying to learn and understand better about this technique but I just figured I would ask. Thanks if you reply
Hard to follow what you mean. But the original plumbing had 3 issues. One was using a vent 90 and the other was it wasn't level, and finally wasn't positioned properly from adjacent walls and plumbing. However you do it, try to make a long sweep 90 work.
@jonparkmac but you used 2 vent fittings..those short sweep elbows shouldn't be used drainage...for vent it's ok
@Lucas-lov-plumbing I agree 💯. It's been trouble-free for three years of daily use. But yes, long sweeps are what should be used.
@@jonparkmaclol….re-reading what I wrote I can say I understand what you mean about it being hard to understand what I mean. But I still thank you for your response
Great video. You covered it all. But why did you use a 4" coupler? You could have used an inside fit 4" flange, no?
Inside fit would reduce opening way more. It's a 3" pipe.
@@jonparkmac You could have used a 3" outside fit flange, which would be the same opening size as your coupler.
@@adde32332 that's true ..I could not locate an outside flange with metal ring so what I did when you think about it's make an outside flange . Same end result.
It’s very interesting most glues in the uk say not to twist the fittings.
For PVC, you always twist 1/4 turn to create an even seal, spread the cement, and avoid clumps of curled up glue. Standard practice in the U.S.
@@jonparkmac I know that people do it both in the uk and us but is it the recommended jointing method by the glue/ solvent cement manufacturers or something that plumbers have came up with themselves.
Yes. Directions from cement manufacturer, right on the can. No one made it up. www.oatey.com/faqs-blog-videos-case-studies/blog/how-complete-perfect-solvent-cement-joint-every-time
What part of the USA do you live in? Is it only allowed to solvent weld or you can use pushfit as well? In Europe for buried pipes in concrete we're only allowed to use pushfit because of the vibration the building is subject to (settlment). They might crack the glue joint.
You never dry fit pipes. European laws are made by idiots that don't work in construction. If you just push the pipes together without glue, what will happen when the ground shifts? the pipes come apart. Pipes are glued and you pack the fill under the pipes with gravel crush to account for settlement .
@@MrWolfSnack pushfit works with O-rings gasket washers, not dry fitting pipes which are meantto be glued.
MrWolfSnack didn't actually watch the whole video. If he did, he'd see it was all glued in. Must have been too keen on snarking and not learning
Just leave the 3” PVC shooting up. Fill around with concrete. Cut flush. And use an inside flange.
Better to cut flush with finish floor instead like I did. That's why rouged in drains are not cut. More glued area, better joint. I did use an inside flange. ✌️
Great instruction! Thanks!!
Glad it helped
Now that was a professional job 👏.
Appreciate that and I hope it helps. In hindsight I could have done a better job with fittings I chose. But it flushes so well ..can't complain
Videos always make it look easy but doubt this went as smooth.
Sure it did. You actually saw all the work right there. The jackhammering was awkward and dusty ..but only like 15 mins.
Great vid, thank you!!!
I have this to do as well. a contractor put my flange 19-20" from the wall and beside my shower. If you want it done right, you have to do it yourself. Are all those bends ok? I'm going with a 22 and 45 degree to be less aggressive with the turns
No, my bends are not ok. Better to reduce the number bends and use long radius. I just could not get anything to work for my app. However ... Flushing awesome !
@@jonparkmac thanks for the reply! I'm on the way to Home Depot to buy a 45degree then.
very detailed. love it. thank you.
Its better to use sand than gravel. Once its in place it doesn't compact further the way gravel can. Probably not an issue for this small hole.
That's a good suggestion. Makes sense.
Foam filler
@@level1selamat155Wooden Flexbar
Nice job, but you did this to move the toilet 6 inches?
Yep. When there's a 1 inch space between the potty seat and tub and you are remodeling a bathroom .. leaving it like that is not a very good remodel now is it ? 👍
looks nice! did you have any leaks since then?
Never leaks and never clogs. Best turlet in the whole house. It's seen lots of buritos and steak dinners and massive piles of TP from in-laws and kids friends
@@jonparkmacI was going to ask the same thing about clogs because I was worried that the twists and turns could be a source of clogs. Thanks for answering and great job! You definitely earned those steak dinners 😂👍
Excellent video for this task
any way you could give a shopping list for supplies?
I'll try. Jackhammer, pvc fittings, sawsall, trowel, gravel, concrete mix, level, flange and primer and cement for fittings.
Looks good. I may try it.
I think I will leave a little length on the pipe and cut it after the concrete dries.
Yeah that's a standard way to do it, just be sure to consider the flooring thickness and the flange you want to use. Flange has to be tight against the flooring and seat down tight into pipe at same time.
Thought Code Was " Use Long Sweep Elbows?
It is ..I wish I could've made that work with the small space. Street elbo needed 4" more room
Will back to back to back 90's pass code?
I don't think so. But this job is able to pass a massive turd and half roll of TP from my father-in-law in one flush with no clog. Best throne in the house right now.
Hell..especially not the vent 90 he used…this was a cluster fuck of a job…totally illegal in every jurisdiction I know of..I’m a plumber of 28 years..too bad he has so many people on here that look like they will be making the same mistakes
@@MrDarren5012 And have one clogged, concreted in, problem.
@@jashby9736 you guys are over-exagerating this. It never clogs in almost 2 years. If it did, the elbo is right there 10" away so a child could unclog it. If it were further away I wouldn't have used those.
This is very similar to what I want to do. However, bit concerned on the 90 degree elbows. Did you see any flush/drain issues? Ideally these should be long sweep elbows? Please advise.
My drain size is 3inch. A 1/4 bend or vent elbow like above will save me some space (for wall hung toilet).
Long elbow if you can get it to fit. In hindsight I could have used some other fittings and avoided the 90s I think. But it flushes good since it has a deep drop.
Great video
One of the best DYI Home improvement Videos I have seen. a couple question.
How far did you move it ?
How much further could you have if you wanted to ?
Moved it 4" away from tub and 2" away from wall. Could have moved it over a few feet, but only needed it perfect between tub and vanity.
Hi, Mr. McClure. Could it be possible to extend the main drain pipe (the straight horizontal one where you connected the first elbow) so as to have the toilet moved across the room? I consulted with a local contractor and he said the bathroom floor has to be elevated 7 inches, I don't really understand why, though. Thank you!
He may be correct. You need slope of 1/4 inches per foot or solids will settle and clog. It's also code for that reason. If he said 7 inches .. that would be 28 feet!! How far do you need to move it across the room?
@@jonparkmac thank you for taking the time to reply. I want to move it about 5 feet diagonally from its original location.
@@telephantasm4070 so 5 ft only needs 1.25 inches of drop. I'd suggest a different plumber.
@@jonparkmac Thank you, sir.
Simple answer: $$$$$
A plumber told me you always put the glue on the piece being pushed inside the other piece so that any excess glue gets pushed out of the connection to be cleaned up instead of globing up inside of the fittings.
That is true.
If I want to move my drain just few inches back is there any trick to do so without making all of that hard work ? Thank You great video!
Yes. They make an offset flange but you'll still need to break up the concrete a little so you can get it on. They are also more prone to clog.
What if your drain is upstairs on the second level and the concrete is only 4 inches thick
Same process without dirt. And make sure no animals or humans are below. Wooden sculptures, old golf bags, plastic plants and cardboard boxes will be fine tho
Thank You
I am confused. You said 12" from the back wall and 18" from the side. You measured 12" straight to the closest edge of the pipe from the back. From the side if you do the same you only have 14" according to your tape measure (if you go to the closest edge of the pipe). Even if you measure to the far side (which it seems to be the measurement you are relying on... you only have 17". It's either 4" too short from the side or it's 1" too short from the side. Why the from the back its to the closest edge of the pipe and from the side its the furthest?
You always measure from the center of the pipe ..never the pipe edges. I should have mentioned that.
Good tutorial but bad choice in fittings. At 8:22 you were at a point where you could’ve used a 45 or a 22 and a 90 to avoid using 3 fittings.
Yep. I could have tried a little harder on that part. Flushes awaome
Thank you for this!
Is that the post tension?
I'm not sure if it's that or just plain rebar for strength. I'd be surprised if PT considering all the other shortcuts and low skill work done on this house.
Great video man, I was totally against doing this until I watched your video now I am ready to take it on. Subscribed!!!!!
You can do it!
my house was made mid-century and has cast iron pipes (sigh) so this becomes exponentially more difficult to DIY
24:33 everything balancing on the floating glue joint
Nothing floats or balances on any joints here. The toilet is supported by the flooring and concrete, not the fitting. The flange just seals up to the toilet and does not support weight. It is screwed down into the concrete with 4 concrete screws.
i have heard people say that if you reposition, it's best to use the old fashioned wash-down toilet instead of the new siphon toilet.. did you or anyone else hear about that?
Reposition dosent change much for that. Flushdowns more common in Europe. They are less likely to clog in the toilet, but louder, need more cleaning, and I've read .. a little stinky since turds are not submerged lol
@@jonparkmac strange in certain country all the major vendors incl sales of Toto American Standard either in shops or online etc all advise customers against using Siphonic in the case of reposition. i thought this was unfounded just hearsay becoming truth.
why would't you use 2x45
I couldnt get that to work. I think it pushed it too far out from the wall. But I should have tried a little harder with other fittings agree. Been trouble free for 4 years now.
yeah... People, please dont do what this guy did.
I'm a plumber and have been since 2008.
The fitting and the way he configured / used them violates many plumbing rules/regulations.
For one you can have that many 90's that close together. it will cause drain issues. Second if a plumber would ever need to cable the drains from the toilet flange he would not be able to now because all the close 90's. Third the fitting themselves are incorrect. When you do use 90's for drins line this it should be longsweep. the exception to this is the toilet but only on sharp turn. By the look of this video he used three sharp 90 turns.
People just call a plumber you will save yourself money in the long run.
Thanks for your professional and objective opinion. I agree with what you've said. You can surely snake this and it also flushes strong after 3 years and daily use, never a clog. Code violation was present already because the original plumbing had a vent 90. That said I support your opinion and thanks for commenting.
这是我要找的影片，谢谢你
wanted to see the Jackhammer work!!!!!
Sorry about that brutha .. it was sooo dusty and would be hard to film. It's a firearm workout. Trick is to do small sections or the tip sticks and pull your nuts trying to get it unstuck.
@@jonparkmac its all good, i had it done at my house and the dust was/is unavoidable.
Helpful, thank you.
I must have missed the last level check on the coupling........?
There is no last level check once glued and the concrete is poured. It's either true and level or it's not. Have to get it right since there's no way to adjust any of this.
Awesome job " excellent work " love your work.
Thank you! Cheers!
Is that a 4 inch pipe?
3" but use a 4" if you have the option. Bigger pipe less chance of clog but less options for bends and fit because of large fitting radius
@@jonparkmac there is a 3 inches pipe coming up the hole. I ended up cutting it inside the hole. Now i need to drill the concrete around it to get to it. The question i have is can i put a 4 inches pipe on top of the 3 inches coming up. Would that work? And will the prime and glue make the seal since water will always hit the edges. If you have an email i can send you a pic or a video. Thanks in advance
@@Lifesituations8000 you can't put a 4" pipe over a 3" pipe and expect it to seal properly. Better to use an adapter fitting. That said if it's cleaned primed and glued it may work. I would be sure to bevel the inside edges so it won't catch TP and terds
@@jonparkmac thanks
@@jonparkmac Do you mean to bevel the edges at the adapter fitting?
Well done!
i am from Bangladesh 🇧🇩
the floor cut looks like pro
Oh hell yeah. No one uses a skill saw for this job except noobs.
Nice! So here's the real question- how much did you charge just to move that toilet alone?
My own dooker, so nothing. But I think the rate in our area is 1500 to 2000 clams
@@jonparkmac thank you for that info!
@@jonparkmac WOW! $1500-$2000. I realize that's just an estimate and I thank you for that info. Is that like a day's work? Sounds like a good amount of money for a day. Going through a remodel pretty soon, so the place will be dirty anyway. Great video! Great info!! Thanks
You could jackhammer the concrete and dig it out yourself and leave the actual plumbing to a pro if you want to save money. They hate breaking up concrete and charge you accordingly. Doing all the concrete work yourself and just having the plumber do the pipe work will definitely save you money and the plumbing will be to code. ( If that's important in your area.) I've done several of these and it's not that bad. Good video.
If you take a heat gun set to high and heat the pipe up at the joint it will loosen the joint and you can twist the connected elbow off without losing that extra length of pipe.
I'm skeptical of that since cement actually melts the PVC together and its not like glue you can disolve. Heat would literally melt the pvc. Plus getting heat all the way around a 3" pipe down in the dirt like that ... more practical to cut it
A long sweep and it into a 45 would be less likely to clog
Might want to caution folks who have post-tensioned slabs
I agree 💯. Thank you for saying that .. and not being a jerk about it. I just recently told a viewer to get a professional to look for that before cutting anything.
Should've cut the pipe behind the 90 back further, put in a 45 then 90 back up
Couldn't ..there is a fitting there. Would had have excavated a deeper tunnel in and to the left. But point taken.
Excellent
Seems like a 45 degree bend to a vertical 90 degree would be better.
Would overshoot the target by 3" .. but yeah I think I could have done better with that
Concrete inspector here, and boy is this completely wrong. Never ever ever ever put plastic sheeting in between your gravel and your slab. Moisture NEEDS TO BE ABSORBED from your aggregate into the slab immediately. YOUR work will crack and cure improperly.
With that being said, when you compact your dirt, and then gravel, you should be applying water so the aggregate, sand and dirt compact better, and leave moisture to be absorbed by the slab.
Unbelievable what people put on you tube. I’d fail your project and require tear out
The end of the video says keep concrete wet for 5 days, completely untrue and unnecessary. What are you going to do, flood your basement in 2 inches of water until a DIY’er thinks it’s cured? No. No. No
You are clearly no inspector. The slabs for residential all have 6 mil plastic under it to prevent moisture, dampness and gases seeping up in living areas. This is required by code. Keeping concrete moist 7 days is a well known curring process. Since you don't know either of those (or refuse to believe them) your comments have little merit.
Use 45 degree fittings next time. Less direct bends less chance for it to back up
The 90's that you used may be to direct of bend and may cause backups. With 45's it wouldn't be such hard direct bends. This causes the waste to be left behind cause the water 💧 drains easily and the waste gets left behind and the next flush must push it and the waste left behind from the previous flush eventually causing a backup. Nice clean work but wouldn't use 90's... I've done LOTS of these in my 25 year's of plumbing. People usually remove a narrow tub in place of a stand up shower and they want it wider putting the toilet to close and it would work out by moving toilet center
That makes good sense.
I like how you are talking about keeping the pipe smooth to avoid clogs while gluing together 4 vent 90's for a toilet lol Guarantee you "Plumbers are over priced" is something this fella's said many times. Good luck to the poor service guy that winds up coming out to unclog that thing, Thats a zero warranty unclog every single time, cant even get a camera through that abomination.
Your over exaggerating but point taken. Been a year of lots of digested steak and TP and flushes like a rocket. 99% of clogs occur in the toilet trap as it's only 2.5 "". If it did clog there, it's 10" away and a 3" pipe so only a moron would not be able unclog it. There's a clean-out hub on the other side of the wall as well.
And yes, dishonest plumbers are way overpriced and take advantage of homeowners that have no idea. This is a 2 hour job at most and $1500 comes out to about $700/hr for simple work. So yeah DIY is king