Hi Finn, cam timing question. Why to turn the engine to U6 and then to OT? There is no such a procedure in workshop manual for 5 chain engine. Thank you
This video was a long time ago, I forget the details. This procedure came directly from the the top porsche engine builder on planet earth, Lee Jenkins. Better than any book 🫡. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
this is done so after the tensioner is installed you can still do some fine cam tuning to the timing , then bring the crank to top dead centre in the correct direction ( clockwise) . If you did it all at top dead centre and you found out your cam is too far around you might have a tendency to pull the crank back a bit to get the cam timing right.. if you do that at U6 that is okay as you can still bring it to TDC clockwise and see if everything worked.. if you did the fine tuning at TDC you have to go around another 720 degrees again to bring it to TDC clockwise to check. i hope i explained that well enough ,,
Dude you are without doubt the best and most reliable source of 996 info bar none, NewArt and his pal Grant come close but even they didn't mention the crank pulley U6 hole! With the help of your splendid videos I just finished replacing the variocam guides on my Boxster, I left the engine in the car, no point in making it too easy.
@@ManinaGarage thank you for the 'thumbs up' you are most kind. Here's one you may have pondered on, but please forgive me if I am teaching Yoda. Why do the bank 1 and bank 2 guides wear the most on opposite sides? I think it is because the cams on each bank rotate in opposite directions (viewed from the sprocket end) So to advance the inlet cam the chain has to be pushed up on bank 2 and down on bank 1.
Wow, the reassembly of the cams and timing of them looks properly difficult. Thank goodness you had access to Lee Jenkins over at Hartech. Congratulations on reaching this stage in the rebuild. I think it's fair to say, it's all downhill from here.
HOWDY LESTER 🤠 This week could not have happened without Lee's help, he is very patient and generous 🙏 . Hopefully its downhill from here 🤞🏻 . Thank you for watching 🤘😎
AMAGAAAAD.... this journey is coming to an end soon., but I trust it will be beginning of something else then! Can't wait the first start of this engine...
You and me both brother 😅 I’m expecting a huge cloud of smoke on startup. In fact I will disappointed if there is not one 😁. Thank you for being a part of the fun 🙌
The mists are certainly beginning to clear. The engine looks like an engine again 🙏. That first crank over will be exciting and terrifying 🤞🏻. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Following along with this guide to put my 986 2.5L back together after replacing the variocam tensioner guides. The U6 thing is very strange. I can't find any info about it elsewhere. I see in your other comment that it's from Lee. The Porsche workshop manual I have doesn't say to do it that way. I'm sure either works fine in the end. Another interesting difference is that my primary chain sprocket is actually in two pieces; the part that sticks out and has the slot for the oil scavenge pump is a separate piece that hides the slots when you put it on. Other than those differences, the valvetrain is extremely similar to the 986.
Far and away the best videos on the net for us 996 owners. I've watched the engine cam timing video and read your replies to Ricardo Baptista on starting the Cam Timing. A couple questions: It seems you later realized that the cam timing process should have started with the engine at TDC vs U6 - is that correct? Desperately want to avoid doing this wrong. Do I need to do the entire cam timing process for each bank, 1-3 & 4-6? Thank you so much. So excited with the prospect of getting this done and getting the 996 back on the road. Thx. Dean L
Hello Dean, it’s a while since making that video. I know now that the video is 100% correct. You do need to start the entire process again to do bank 2. Good luck 🍀
Watched and loved all your videos. Very informative and entertaining. I have a 996 C2 3.4 which I do all the work on myself. Can't believe you've never worked on an engine before, you'd put many "mechanics" to shame! Keep up the good work. Greetings from Cardiff S.Wales
Hello Francesco 🙌, The Porsche 996 3.4 is really growing on me. Cars have always been of great interest to me, like most people I generally have just bought them, driven them and broken them for other people to fix. I really wanted to finally know once and for all the meaning and implication of the multitude of automotive terms I have heard over the years. Big ends, Cams, Blueprinting, Lifters etc, etc. This project is a baptism of FIRE 🤓. Despite the odd areas of stress it has been a very enjoyable journey. Without publishing the videos I could not have completed this work, if I had not had all the help and feedback from subscribers I would not have got this far. I love Cardiff 😍 as a kid I used to ride the Swansea Ferry to Ireland all the time. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Hey brother looking good! I just split the engine and take everything apart yesterday night.. it's funny I'm like literally following you week to week to catch up.. I would love to rent that cam timing thing from you.. just a stones throw from san Diego mate.. thanks 🙏
@@ManinaGarage Also any chance you still have the IMS puller thingy?? Im gonna order a new bearing from pelican parts and would love to make that job easier..your the best!!
Howdy Richard 🤠, it’s getting annoying close 😅. Part of me wants it done, part of me will miss the puzzle (a very small part of me 🤣) Thank you for watching 🤘😎
i did notice that you went around some of the outside of the bolt holes... aren't you supposed to go inside of the bolt holes ? if you go around the outside of the bolt holes there is nothing stopping the oil traveling between the flanges up the bolt holes through the thread and out from underneath the bolt, as there is no sealant to stop it. ..just wondering
@@oilcoolman This was a while ago for me, I don’t remember the details. One thing I do remember is the advice from Lee Jenkins at Hartech, he recommended putting sealant into the bolt holes to prevent the kind of leaking you are talking about. It may not be obvious in the video footage but I did do that in most cases. Thank you for watching & commenting!🤘😎
Really informative and entertaining videos! The links on where to buy all the products sends it over the top. Happy to subscribe. It's the same cost as a pint which you greatly deserve.
Hi. Thanks for another great video. I'm going to attempt a similar project on my 997.1 soon. May I ask did you find a manual or a detailed written guide anywhere for the rebuild? I'm not sure I'm confident I know enough yet to start without a big greasy book next to me. Your videos have been hugely helpful and you seem very knowledgeable. Was wondering where you learnt everything. Also have you put a new RMS in yet?
Hello Stewart, I started with the Bentley manual, that does not go past the cylinder heads. Everything for that last few weeks has been sourced from online research, subscribers helping me plus Lee Jenkins at Hartech. There may be some books out there that tell you how to rebuild these engines, I don't know of any. Prior to this project I have never attempted anything like this, I don't have any skills or experience. I work in the music industry, I just wanted a project that forced me to learn about engines. Thank you for watching🤘😎
Here’s a little addition to what I said earlier…….. There is “something” out there, subscribers have sent me all kinds of random photocopies and links to pretty official looking shop manuals. Some of them in German. Some I think are from Porsche techs who are sending me pieces of their manuals. If you send me an email I’ll share some of the links with you, it might help you find something for your car. Stuckinagarage@gmail.com.
I think you said about torquing the plugs: 30nm + 3. What do you mean by "+3"? And, how hard is it to remove the spark plug tubes? Do they just pull out with a finger in there or is a tool necessary? I'm doing this job soon and need any pointers I can get! Thanks, buddy!
Hello Tom 🙌. Regarding the “+3” my understanding is you Torque the plug to 30nm. Then torque it another 3nm. That’s from the Bentley manual. Why that is different to just torquing it to 33Nm, I’m not sure?? The plug box said hand tight then 1/2-3/4 turn. For me, spark plug tubes came off with the cylinder head cover. They look like you technically could remove them individually as they are just being held by the o rings. Having said that, those o rings are holding them very tightly. You would need some tool that could expand into the tubes and hold them with enough friction to pull them out. A large long nose pliers that could open up into the hole might do the trick. If one is known to be damaged , drilling a hole in it could help you hook it out with something. Just my opinion, there may be some fancy way of getting them out easily. Good luck with your project 🍀
Hello, thanks for another great video, and in this one you accomplish a lot! Congrats! But I have one question: Are you sure that the timing should be made with the pin on U6 and not with the pin on the tearshape hole on the pulley ? And I'm not trying to be an smart..s here, just a genuine question and the reason for the question is that I saw many videos where all of then peolple used the teardrop shape hole on the pulley to establish the timing And that bring me to another question that I have, after seeing some timing videos they all say that on Bank 1 TDC the notch on the intake cam should face the cam cover and this notch on bank 2 face the block. I just assembled mine and on bank 1 TDC they are both facing the cam cover (or out) but the 2 half moons ( the big one and the small one ) on the exhaust cam are apposite to each other meaning that on bank 1 TDC the Porsche cam align tool fits on bank one and does not fit on bank 2 ( which seems to be correct ) Could you tell me how notches on the intake cam looks like? Thank you so much and sorry to use this media to ask this question for you
Howdy Ricardo 🙌, I’m out and about right now, I will reread your question when I get home. The first part I think I can answer. I agree that the ultimate aim is to have the cams installed with the engine at Tdc. When I attempted to use the Bentley manual to do the timing, the instructions were along those lines (this was my first failed attempt and the reason I mention “redoing” bank 1). The method in the video was shown to me by Lee Jenkins at Hartech uk. I believe the difference is that by putting the cams in on U6, everything is settled by that little turn to tdc so you can then lock the primary chain sprocket in place at a slightly more accurate tdc. For the second part of your question I need to reread it with my notes in front of me. One thing to try is to turn the engine one more time back to tdc and see where the notches are. You are welcome to email me at stuckinagarage@gmail.com. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Hello Ricardo, reading your second question again I am not sure why the notches would both be facing the same way. I would check that the dots on your cams (the ones that line up with the colored chain links) are close to center and on the top/outside of the cylinder head. Lmk 🙏
Nobody seems to make manuals anymore. I would love to have a manual for my 997 but Bentley, Haynes, Chilton don't make them for my car. I can't find anything for my car other than the Dempsey book "101 projects for your 911". Do you know of any manuals for a 997? Ever heard of such a thing? Thanks!
Hello Tom, there is “something” out there, subscribers have sent me all kinds of random photocopies and links to pretty official looking shop manuals. many of them in German. Some I think are from Porsche techs who are sending me pieces of their manuals. If you send me an email I’ll share some of the links with you, it might help you find something for your car. Stuckinagarage@gmail.com.
If I tied the cams and chain together like you did in an earlier episode.....and kept the pin in the crank the whole time...I should be able to just lay the cams back in and bolt everything up. None of this timing procedure should be needed...correct?
This video makes me think of all the times I've heard the question "did you have to split the case?" on repairs of friends' P-cars. We've seen the complexity of doing so, and yet this seems so simple* in comparison. I never want to hear the term "we have to split the case" on my car... * don't try this at home unless you're Finn or a certified Porsche tech!
Your right, it does seem outlandish to take an engine OUT to work on it, though it is MUCH easier to work on if you do. Makes me less afraid of owning a Ferrari now............
@ManinaGarage I learned that two different ways. The 1st was from ARPs package insert that states why they supply the lubricant. In regards to using it on non ARP fasteners, I learned that the hard way, breaking threads in a block from using it on head bolts. I also had it confirmed by a local machine shop who tested it and told me that they saw a 40% increase in clamp load by using it.
That is VERY interesting 🧐. I was under the impression that the caymans had a very similar engine? I only think that because the Boxster engine is said to be almost identical to the 996 besides displacement. Perhaps the cayman was more of a redesign than I give it credit for. So much to learn……😳..Thank you for watching. 🤘😎
If your in need of a rebuild stay away from nein lives parts rebuilds off eBay. Complete junk company my motor lasted 1700 miles less then one year has scored cylinders. Buyer beware
See next week NOW! - ua-cam.com/video/Ap3OmzqMXh4/v-deo.html
After seeing this latest video, I just had to upgrade my membership. This series is so well done.
Thank you Edward! You rock! 😎
Hi Finn, cam timing question. Why to turn the engine to U6 and then to OT? There is no such a procedure in workshop manual for 5 chain engine. Thank you
This video was a long time ago, I forget the details. This procedure came directly from the the top porsche engine builder on planet earth, Lee Jenkins. Better than any book 🫡. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
this is done so after the tensioner is installed you can still do some fine cam tuning to the timing , then bring the crank to top dead centre in the correct direction ( clockwise) . If you did it all at top dead centre and you found out your cam is too far around you might have a tendency to pull the crank back a bit to get the cam timing right.. if you do that at U6 that is okay as you can still bring it to TDC clockwise and see if everything worked.. if you did the fine tuning at TDC you have to go around another 720 degrees again to bring it to TDC clockwise to check. i hope i explained that well enough ,,
Getting closer!!! Can’t wait to hear the engine start! Caught a glimpse of the Milwaukee tool too. 😎
That "Yogi's Garage Powered Screwdriver" is becoming indispensable! Thank you dude🙏
Dude you are without doubt the best and most reliable source of 996 info bar none, NewArt and his pal Grant come close but even they didn't mention the crank pulley U6 hole! With the help of your splendid videos I just finished replacing the variocam guides on my Boxster, I left the engine in the car, no point in making it too easy.
Thats great news Peter! Nice work Duderama 🙌 Thank you for watching 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage thank you for the 'thumbs up' you are most kind. Here's one you may have pondered on, but please forgive me if I am teaching Yoda. Why do the bank 1 and bank 2 guides wear the most on opposite sides? I think it is because the cams on each bank rotate in opposite directions (viewed from the sprocket end) So to advance the inlet cam the chain has to be pushed up on bank 2 and down on bank 1.
@@peterdive3376 Hello Peter, that sounds reasonable I agree with you. I am far from a Yoda on this subject 😆 Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Man a very Complicated and Sophisticated reassembly. I learned a lot.
Dude! Me too...Sheesh, my brain hurts 🤓
On the home stretch now! Thanks to Lee for helping.
Lee Jenkins 😇. This weeks video could not have happened with out Lee’s help 😅. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Another great episode, thank you for this series! Please consider the next grouping, like full suspension refresh or trans rebuild:)
Duly noted Mr. Stevens 🙌 . If the engine runs, that sounds like a plan! Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Watching this while queueing for a chippy tea Finn 😁
Curry Chips Please 🙏.....They don't exist over here 😭. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Wow, the reassembly of the cams and timing of them looks properly difficult. Thank goodness you had access to Lee Jenkins over at Hartech. Congratulations on reaching this stage in the rebuild. I think it's fair to say, it's all downhill from here.
HOWDY LESTER 🤠 This week could not have happened without Lee's help, he is very patient and generous 🙏 . Hopefully its downhill from here 🤞🏻 . Thank you for watching 🤘😎
AMAGAAAAD.... this journey is coming to an end soon., but I trust it will be beginning of something else then! Can't wait the first start of this engine...
You and me both brother 😅 I’m expecting a huge cloud of smoke on startup. In fact I will disappointed if there is not one 😁. Thank you for being a part of the fun 🙌
@@ManinaGarage You own a working flatsix now, white clouds of smokes will be there sooner or later ;)
@@reiopedak406 Eeek! 😳
Hello Finn!
Maybe do you remmember in ,what direction, and where do you turn position the crankshaft when the bank1 is ready?thanks Cheers
The answer is in the video. 👍 This was years ago for me, I don’t remember the details. Thank you for watching! 🤘😎
Good timing! I'm sitting here looking at my 3.4 sitting on a table. Getting ready to pull the cam covers off due to worn VarioCam pads.
Yeeeees! Good luck with your project 🍀 Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Wow. Ugh. Start filming and give Finn a run for his money :) JK
Getting exciting!! Can’t wait for that first crank over
The mists are certainly beginning to clear. The engine looks like an engine again 🙏. That first crank over will be exciting and terrifying 🤞🏻. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Following along with this guide to put my 986 2.5L back together after replacing the variocam tensioner guides. The U6 thing is very strange. I can't find any info about it elsewhere. I see in your other comment that it's from Lee. The Porsche workshop manual I have doesn't say to do it that way. I'm sure either works fine in the end.
Another interesting difference is that my primary chain sprocket is actually in two pieces; the part that sticks out and has the slot for the oil scavenge pump is a separate piece that hides the slots when you put it on.
Other than those differences, the valvetrain is extremely similar to the 986.
That’s very interesting to hear. I wonder why the primary chain sprocket is different?? Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Far and away the best videos on the net for us 996 owners. I've watched the engine cam timing video and read your replies to Ricardo Baptista on starting the Cam Timing.
A couple questions:
It seems you later realized that the cam timing process should have started with the engine at TDC vs U6 - is that correct? Desperately want to avoid doing this wrong.
Do I need to do the entire cam timing process for each bank, 1-3 & 4-6?
Thank you so much. So excited with the prospect of getting this done and getting the 996 back on the road.
Thx.
Dean L
Hello Dean, it’s a while since making that video. I know now that the video is 100% correct. You do need to start the entire process again to do bank 2. Good luck 🍀
@@ManinaGarage Thank you very much. Look forward to catching future content. Your delivery always gives me a little chuckle. Cheers. DL
Watched and loved all your videos. Very informative and entertaining. I have a 996 C2 3.4 which I do all the work on myself. Can't believe you've never worked on an engine before, you'd put many "mechanics" to shame! Keep up the good work. Greetings from Cardiff S.Wales
Hello Francesco 🙌, The Porsche 996 3.4 is really growing on me. Cars have always been of great interest to me, like most people I generally have just bought them, driven them and broken them for other people to fix. I really wanted to finally know once and for all the meaning and implication of the multitude of automotive terms I have heard over the years. Big ends, Cams, Blueprinting, Lifters etc, etc. This project is a baptism of FIRE 🤓. Despite the odd areas of stress it has been a very enjoyable journey. Without publishing the videos I could not have completed this work, if I had not had all the help and feedback from subscribers I would not have got this far. I love Cardiff 😍 as a kid I used to ride the Swansea Ferry to Ireland all the time. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Hey brother looking good! I just split the engine and take everything apart yesterday night.. it's funny I'm like literally following you week to week to catch up.. I would love to rent that cam timing thing from you.. just a stones throw from san Diego mate.. thanks 🙏
What part of the world are you in?
@@ManinaGarage im in Hesperia California..but i drive to that area weekly!
@@skeesone7308 I will be staying in Downtown Los Angeles next Saturday near Pershing square, want to meet me there?
@@ManinaGarage Also any chance you still have the IMS puller thingy?? Im gonna order a new bearing from pelican parts and would love to make that job easier..your the best!!
@@skeesone7308 Hello, that tool was lent to me by TuneRS Motorsport in Florida, unfortunately I already sent it back to them.😭.
Getting soooo close to start up. Love the Vdo . Your doing an excellent job , can’t wait for the install
Howdy Richard 🤠, it’s getting annoying close 😅. Part of me wants it done, part of me will miss the puzzle (a very small part of me 🤣) Thank you for watching 🤘😎
i did notice that you went around some of the outside of the bolt holes... aren't you supposed to go inside of the bolt holes ? if you go around the outside of the bolt holes there is nothing stopping the oil traveling between the flanges up the bolt holes through the thread and out from underneath the bolt, as there is no sealant to stop it. ..just wondering
@@oilcoolman This was a while ago for me, I don’t remember the details. One thing I do remember is the advice from Lee Jenkins at Hartech, he recommended putting sealant into the bolt holes to prevent the kind of leaking you are talking about. It may not be obvious in the video footage but I did do that in most cases. Thank you for watching & commenting!🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage ah yes that would work...
Really informative and entertaining videos! The links on where to buy all the products sends it over the top. Happy to subscribe. It's the same cost as a pint which you greatly deserve.
Thank you for the comment and thank you for the beer Kevin 🍻
Another good lesson of mechanics👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Hello Enric, I have an ever increasing respect for engineers and mechanics 🤓. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Great progress Finn! Outstanding work! Cheers!
Much appreciated Fred 🙌. It finally makes sense 🤣😂. Thank you for watching. 🤘😎
Hi. Thanks for another great video. I'm going to attempt a similar project on my 997.1 soon. May I ask did you find a manual or a detailed written guide anywhere for the rebuild? I'm not sure I'm confident I know enough yet to start without a big greasy book next to me. Your videos have been hugely helpful and you seem very knowledgeable. Was wondering where you learnt everything. Also have you put a new RMS in yet?
Hello Stewart, I started with the Bentley manual, that does not go past the cylinder heads. Everything for that last few weeks has been sourced from online research, subscribers helping me plus Lee Jenkins at Hartech. There may be some books out there that tell you how to rebuild these engines, I don't know of any. Prior to this project I have never attempted anything like this, I don't have any skills or experience. I work in the music industry, I just wanted a project that forced me to learn about engines. Thank you for watching🤘😎
Here’s a little addition to what I said earlier……..
There is “something” out there, subscribers have sent me all kinds of random photocopies and links to pretty official looking shop manuals. Some of them in German. Some I think are from Porsche techs who are sending me pieces of their manuals. If you send me an email I’ll share some of the links with you, it might help you find something for your car. Stuckinagarage@gmail.com.
I think you said about torquing the plugs: 30nm + 3. What do you mean by "+3"? And, how hard is it to remove the spark plug tubes? Do they just pull out with a finger in there or is a tool necessary? I'm doing this job soon and need any pointers I can get! Thanks, buddy!
Hello Tom 🙌. Regarding the “+3” my understanding is you Torque the plug to 30nm. Then torque it another 3nm. That’s from the Bentley manual. Why that is different to just torquing it to 33Nm, I’m not sure?? The plug box said hand tight then 1/2-3/4 turn. For me, spark plug tubes came off with the cylinder head cover. They look like you technically could remove them individually as they are just being held by the o rings. Having said that, those o rings are holding them very tightly. You would need some tool that could expand into the tubes and hold them with enough friction to pull them out. A large long nose pliers that could open up into the hole might do the trick. If one is known to be damaged , drilling a hole in it could help you hook it out with something. Just my opinion, there may be some fancy way of getting them out easily. Good luck with your project 🍀
Classic once again Finn, well done 👍
Thank you Andrew! May the world be in perpetual sunrise over sugar loaf mountain 🏔
Thanks for another great video.
Most welcome! Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Well done mate, very informative ...hope the timing is right..🤞🏻🤞🏻😃
🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞🙏😅. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Hello, thanks for another great video, and in this one you accomplish a lot! Congrats!
But I have one question: Are you sure that the timing should be made with the pin on U6 and not with the pin on the tearshape hole on the pulley ?
And I'm not trying to be an smart..s here, just a genuine question and the reason for the question is that I saw many videos where all of then peolple used the teardrop shape hole on the pulley to establish the timing
And that bring me to another question that I have, after seeing some timing videos they all say that on Bank 1 TDC the notch on the intake cam should face the cam cover and this notch on bank 2 face the block.
I just assembled mine and on bank 1 TDC they are both facing the cam cover (or out)
but the 2 half moons ( the big one and the small one ) on the exhaust cam are apposite to each other meaning that on bank 1 TDC the Porsche cam align tool fits on bank one and does not fit on bank 2 ( which seems to be correct )
Could you tell me how notches on the intake cam looks like?
Thank you so much and sorry to use this media to ask this question for you
Howdy Ricardo 🙌, I’m out and about right now, I will reread your question when I get home. The first part I think I can answer. I agree that the ultimate aim is to have the cams installed with the engine at Tdc. When I attempted to use the Bentley manual to do the timing, the instructions were along those lines (this was my first failed attempt and the reason I mention “redoing” bank 1). The method in the video was shown to me by Lee Jenkins at Hartech uk. I believe the difference is that by putting the cams in on U6, everything is settled by that little turn to tdc so you can then lock the primary chain sprocket in place at a slightly more accurate tdc. For the second part of your question I need to reread it with my notes in front of me. One thing to try is to turn the engine one more time back to tdc and see where the notches are. You are welcome to email me at stuckinagarage@gmail.com. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Hello Ricardo, reading your second question again I am not sure why the notches would both be facing the same way. I would check that the dots on your cams (the ones that line up with the colored chain links) are close to center and on the top/outside of the cylinder head. Lmk 🙏
Nobody seems to make manuals anymore. I would love to have a manual for my 997 but Bentley, Haynes, Chilton don't make them for my car. I can't find anything for my car other than the Dempsey book "101 projects for your 911". Do you know of any manuals for a 997? Ever heard of such a thing? Thanks!
Hello Tom, there is “something” out there, subscribers have sent me all kinds of random photocopies and links to pretty official looking shop manuals. many of them in German. Some I think are from Porsche techs who are sending me pieces of their manuals. If you send me an email I’ll share some of the links with you, it might help you find something for your car. Stuckinagarage@gmail.com.
Another fantastic video!!
I really appreciate that lothar 🙌 Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Nicely done!
Happy Saturday Joby,
Thank you for watching 🤘😎
If I tied the cams and chain together like you did in an earlier episode.....and kept the pin in the crank the whole time...I should be able to just lay the cams back in and bolt everything up. None of this timing procedure should be needed...correct?
And thanks for the great videos too!
@@davidstahl3853 Realistically I cannot be trusted. However, your logic sounds good to me. Good luck 🍀
Good work as usual Vinnie
Eh! Tony! Hopefully your weekend is treating you right 💰🍾🏎⛳️🍤👯♀️
Happy Friday 🎉😀🎉😀🎉.
Still got that Friday feeling 🍾💃🏻🏎🤩 Thank you got watching 🤘😎
Still got that Friday feeling 🍾💃🏻🏎🤩 Thank you got watching 🤘😎
This video makes me think of all the times I've heard the question "did you have to split the case?" on repairs of friends' P-cars.
We've seen the complexity of doing so, and yet this seems so simple* in comparison. I never want to hear the term "we have to split the case" on my car...
* don't try this at home unless you're Finn or a certified Porsche tech!
Your right, it does seem outlandish to take an engine OUT to work on it, though it is MUCH easier to work on if you do. Makes me less afraid of owning a Ferrari now............
Well... a year later. Cracked head, and a bonus of signs of bore scoring discovered while investigating. Might be time to split the case!
Good video - but that’s the wrong spark plug
You should NEVER use ARP lube on non ARP fasteners. Doing so will increase the torque/stretch put on the fastener and can cause fastener failures.
Whats the difference between ARP Lube and other brands that would make that happen? Where are you getting these statistics? Thank you for watching! 🤘😎
@ManinaGarage I learned that two different ways. The 1st was from ARPs package insert that states why they supply the lubricant. In regards to using it on non ARP fasteners, I learned that the hard way, breaking threads in a block from using it on head bolts. I also had it confirmed by a local machine shop who tested it and told me that they saw a 40% increase in clamp load by using it.
😱😱😱
I cant believe the timing is so much different than my Caymans engine
That is VERY interesting 🧐. I was under the impression that the caymans had a very similar engine? I only think that because the Boxster engine is said to be almost identical to the 996 besides displacement. Perhaps the cayman was more of a redesign than I give it credit for. So much to learn……😳..Thank you for watching. 🤘😎
If your in need of a rebuild stay away from nein lives parts rebuilds off eBay. Complete junk company my motor lasted 1700 miles less then one year has scored cylinders. Buyer beware