Absolutely a great thread. anyone interested in this method should read the thread all the way through. Markyscott does a great job explaining in text as well as through photos and there is a lot of good commentary and questions throughout.
I enjoyed learning from your video and that's rare usually I have to make myself watch thru them all so I won't miss those nuggets of info I'm in search of , your style and obvious knowledge kept me focused
That means a lot. If there is anything you ever have a question on, feel free to ask. You can message me on Instagram, through my website, or email. The latter two are smalltreesfarm.com and bighearts@smalltreesfarm.com . thank you again, I'm really glad you enjoyed watching!
This is not much more damaging than regular root work, for trees that can be bare rooted. As long as you keep the roots moist and don't handle them roughly when arranging them they should be fine. Any species that generally shouldn't be bare rooted (pine, juniper, azalea, etc) probably isn't the best candidate for this method because you really can't have soil in there and arrange the roots like you need to. If you're wondering about a specific species, look and see if a) it handles root work well and b) it can be bare rooted. If it can check both of these boxes it should be okay to use this method.
I'm glad you enjoy them! I'm in a little bit of a lull as I've finished most of my spring work and I'm waiting on everything to grow enough to need more work.
Thank you very much! This tree is growing like crazy so we might be able to see some fruits of this labor soon! The only downside to this video is with the tree growing fast in the ground, it is going to be hard to set roots correctly that grow this year and thicken too much. But I guess we'll find out. If it keeps growing quickly this year I may give it its first real chop for taper next year and if I do I'll revisit the roots again, at least take a peek.
Unfortunately, this tree was sold last year. While it isn't the same tree, I have one with more potential that I worked last year with the same method. I'll be working it and most or my other trees sometime soon. Hopefully they'll make a decent substitute.
@@smalltrees I am doing basically this same project. I have some trees that need to be refined in a couple years time. One of mine, I am guessing two more chops and it'll be ready. Its about 3 years old and its about a foot in circumference at its base! Hopefully next year I can make those final couple of chops. I love this series and Im following. I would love to see some more on your final couple of chops and refinement of branches or even some on branch selection. I've learned A LOT from this series. I really appreciate what you've done so far.
That's awesome! I can definitely focus on that some this year. I'm glad you've enjoyed it all so far, and I'm excited for you to see how yours develops! That's a pretty big tree!
Ok, so a maple tree can develop a great nebari with this technique, does it work for junipers and confiers as well? And what about the root system development, does this method help to produce a dense root system?
The problem with applying this method to conifers is that they do not tolerate being bare-rooted and you really need to bare root to do this correctly. This method by itself doesn't have an effect on the density of the root system. Fast growth = longer, thicker roots. Slower growth + proper soil makes a nice feeder root system close to the trunk. I will focus on that once I have grown the trunk out to the size I desire.
@@smalltrees nice, great information here. I have found that junipers can be real fast growers when put in 100% inorganic soil (akadama or something alike) and by feeding strongly with high NPS fertilizer, a very fine root system and a very strong foliage can be developed very quickly with no adverse effects. You need a very open container though, think of a large plastic colander strainer.
Do you get a lot of juvenile foliage when they grow that quickly? I have to confess that I fell in love with maples and pomegranates and I've never really branched out much beyond there.
@@smalltrees that depends on how much you stress the tree, in the case of junipers, I have found that San Jose and Sierra Junipers, if you you remove too much of the original soil, cut too many branches and generally change too much the tree, pushing fast growth with the strainer technique might increase juvenile grow. In the case of Procumbens, those are wonderful. It's quite hard to produce juvenile growth on Procumbens so they respond very well to this technique.
Makes sense. I'm glad that you're finding the methods that work for you. I think I'd stay on the safe side and not try this on a juniper, not one you care about anyway. Haha
Definitely. I am growing a new leader to thicken the trunk a little more before I do my first actual chop for taper. If the tree continues to grow well this year I will chop it mow next year and train up a branch or advantageous bud as the new leader.
I'll let you know in a few weeks! I did use particle board for one tree and it did not hold up very well, but I imagine this will be good for a couple of seasons.
For sure. Longevity isn't a huge concern, as you can just strip it away and replace it if you need. But at the same time, it is less stress on the rootball if you can remove the board in one piece when desired.
Pebbles can be used below the tree if rotting of the board is any matter of concern. You can tie up the tree with wire or strings on suitable sized pebble or use waste granite slab as board.
It isn't part of the future plan. I wasn't sure where it would bud so I left plenty of room. I will cut it back much lower and make the cut more natural then.
thank you for the video, my questions were answered below, are you going to show the progress of this tree? just subbed and thumbs - up,, be strong, be safe, and be blessed
Thank you very much, and you as well! Yes, I will post an update on this tree later this year if it grows well. Definitely going to peek at the roots at least. May dig it and re work it next spring if it grows aggressively this year.
It does, but most of mine are just in growing beds so they aren't hard to get out. However, I do need to buy a new sawzall.. not sure why I opted for the corded version when I bought it but it doesn't do a whole lot of good if you can't get power to it. Lol
Trident maples are very vigorous and this tree was very healthy. Definitely don't try this if you question the vitality of the tree at all. But this one has put on a lot of growth already. I'll try to get a photo of it for you when I get home.
No problem! Here it is. Going to let it grow freely this year to thicken up a little more and then maybe next year I re work the roots and chop it down low to start work on the next trunk section. ibb.co/Rb5Myg2
Fantastic thread on Bonsainut about Ebiharas maples www.bonsainut.com/threads/ebihara-maples.18215/
Absolutely a great thread. anyone interested in this method should read the thread all the way through. Markyscott does a great job explaining in text as well as through photos and there is a lot of good commentary and questions throughout.
@@smalltrees markyscott has great informal articles about prevention against fungal diseases. Search "Dormant Season Spraying" on Bonsainut.
good inspiratif....
I enjoyed learning from your video and that's rare usually I have to make myself watch thru them all so I won't miss those nuggets of info I'm in search of , your style and obvious knowledge kept me focused
That means a lot. If there is anything you ever have a question on, feel free to ask. You can message me on Instagram, through my website, or email. The latter two are smalltreesfarm.com and bighearts@smalltreesfarm.com . thank you again, I'm really glad you enjoyed watching!
Incredible tree with awesome potential. Great job explaining this method
Thanks! It's already growing like crazy so we may be able to see some change later this year if I take a peek at the roots.
Very interesting. First time I’ve seen this method. Great tree.
Thank you! There will be am update video on the tree this spring, so keep an eye out!
Dear Dr small trees, thank you for demonstrating the Ebihara method. I subscribed.
Thank you very much. Glad you enjoyed it!
You can create a very beautiful bonsai.
Nice work and great explanation, thanks
Interesting technique, how harsh is this for the tree? Any ideas what other types would withstand this procedure? Thanks c:
This is not much more damaging than regular root work, for trees that can be bare rooted. As long as you keep the roots moist and don't handle them roughly when arranging them they should be fine.
Any species that generally shouldn't be bare rooted (pine, juniper, azalea, etc) probably isn't the best candidate for this method because you really can't have soil in there and arrange the roots like you need to.
If you're wondering about a specific species, look and see if a) it handles root work well and b) it can be bare rooted. If it can check both of these boxes it should be okay to use this method.
small trees I just deleted a similar question. But thanks again for your videos. Very inspiring!
I'm glad you enjoy them! I'm in a little bit of a lull as I've finished most of my spring work and I'm waiting on everything to grow enough to need more work.
Thank you so much for this video!
You're welcome! My trees are nothing like a lot of peoples', but I tried to show the basic idea of the technique.
Excellent video! subbed 👏🏼
Thank you very much! This tree is growing like crazy so we might be able to see some fruits of this labor soon! The only downside to this video is with the tree growing fast in the ground, it is going to be hard to set roots correctly that grow this year and thicken too much. But I guess we'll find out. If it keeps growing quickly this year I may give it its first real chop for taper next year and if I do I'll revisit the roots again, at least take a peek.
Thank you for the video what season do you prune the root?
You're welcome! In spring, when buds are just starting to swell or a week or two before that.
@@smalltrees thanks very much for your timely reply and advise
No problem! Always happy to help
Really helpful video, thanks! Subscribed :)
Almost time for an update!
Unfortunately, this tree was sold last year. While it isn't the same tree, I have one with more potential that I worked last year with the same method. I'll be working it and most or my other trees sometime soon. Hopefully they'll make a decent substitute.
@@smalltrees I am doing basically this same project. I have some trees that need to be refined in a couple years time. One of mine, I am guessing two more chops and it'll be ready. Its about 3 years old and its about a foot in circumference at its base! Hopefully next year I can make those final couple of chops. I love this series and Im following. I would love to see some more on your final couple of chops and refinement of branches or even some on branch selection. I've learned A LOT from this series. I really appreciate what you've done so far.
That's awesome! I can definitely focus on that some this year. I'm glad you've enjoyed it all so far, and I'm excited for you to see how yours develops! That's a pretty big tree!
@@smalltrees Nice! Well, I look forward to seeing more. Thanks again! and Happy New Year!
You too!
Super interesting technique. Well done.
Thank you! I hope to have an update on this tree *maybe* next spring depending on how well it grows.
Ok, so a maple tree can develop a great nebari with this technique, does it work for junipers and confiers as well? And what about the root system development, does this method help to produce a dense root system?
The problem with applying this method to conifers is that they do not tolerate being bare-rooted and you really need to bare root to do this correctly. This method by itself doesn't have an effect on the density of the root system. Fast growth = longer, thicker roots. Slower growth + proper soil makes a nice feeder root system close to the trunk. I will focus on that once I have grown the trunk out to the size I desire.
@@smalltrees nice, great information here. I have found that junipers can be real fast growers when put in 100% inorganic soil (akadama or something alike) and by feeding strongly with high NPS fertilizer, a very fine root system and a very strong foliage can be developed very quickly with no adverse effects. You need a very open container though, think of a large plastic colander strainer.
Do you get a lot of juvenile foliage when they grow that quickly? I have to confess that I fell in love with maples and pomegranates and I've never really branched out much beyond there.
@@smalltrees that depends on how much you stress the tree, in the case of junipers, I have found that San Jose and Sierra Junipers, if you you remove too much of the original soil, cut too many branches and generally change too much the tree, pushing fast growth with the strainer technique might increase juvenile grow. In the case of Procumbens, those are wonderful. It's quite hard to produce juvenile growth on Procumbens so they respond very well to this technique.
Makes sense. I'm glad that you're finding the methods that work for you. I think I'd stay on the safe side and not try this on a juniper, not one you care about anyway. Haha
Would like to see what to do after the first heavy trunk chop, thanks
Definitely. I am growing a new leader to thicken the trunk a little more before I do my first actual chop for taper. If the tree continues to grow well this year I will chop it mow next year and train up a branch or advantageous bud as the new leader.
nice base
Best tutorial Ive watched for this technique.
Have you had any problems with the base board decaying?
I'll let you know in a few weeks! I did use particle board for one tree and it did not hold up very well, but I imagine this will be good for a couple of seasons.
@@smalltrees
Thanks, I'd be interested in seeing how it goes.
Marine-ply would definitely last, though it's a lot more expensive unfortunately.
For sure. Longevity isn't a huge concern, as you can just strip it away and replace it if you need. But at the same time, it is less stress on the rootball if you can remove the board in one piece when desired.
Pebbles can be used below the tree if rotting of the board is any matter of concern. You can tie up the tree with wire or strings on suitable sized pebble or use waste granite slab as board.
Does this not rot the wood and cause problems for the tree??
How do you make that huge almost horizontal cut on the trunk blend into the tree later that is my biggest mystery. Thks
It isn't part of the future plan. I wasn't sure where it would bud so I left plenty of room. I will cut it back much lower and make the cut more natural then.
Can you make a video on that one day please . thanks
amazing!
Thank you! A follow up video will be coming soon!
Very nice technique!
Did you put it directly into sunlight after cutting the roots?
I did. This was early spring and it had no leaves to dessicate.
thank you for the video, my questions were answered below, are you going to show the progress of this tree? just subbed and thumbs - up,, be strong, be safe, and be blessed
Thank you very much, and you as well! Yes, I will post an update on this tree later this year if it grows well. Definitely going to peek at the roots at least. May dig it and re work it next spring if it grows aggressively this year.
@@smalltrees why not show either way, never be afraid of showing how not to do some thing, be strong, be safe, and be blessed
Amazing, thank you!!!!!!
Did you put cutpaste on the trunk chop or leave it?
I used cut paste. Generally any cut that is pencil diameter or thicker I will cover.
are you actually nailing into the roots themselves or using the nails as more of a guide to direct them and keep them from crossing? Great video!!
You use the nails to direct the roots. These are small enough that if I nailed through them they'd probably die.
Thai use that a lot for desert rose.
like
A 12 blade in a Sawzall makes digging trees easy...
It does, but most of mine are just in growing beds so they aren't hard to get out. However, I do need to buy a new sawzall.. not sure why I opted for the corded version when I bought it but it doesn't do a whole lot of good if you can't get power to it. Lol
Honestly I don't how you didn't just kill that tree....nice explanation.
Trident maples are very vigorous and this tree was very healthy. Definitely don't try this if you question the vitality of the tree at all. But this one has put on a lot of growth already. I'll try to get a photo of it for you when I get home.
@@smalltrees cool thank you!
No problem! Here it is. Going to let it grow freely this year to thicken up a little more and then maybe next year I re work the roots and chop it down low to start work on the next trunk section. ibb.co/Rb5Myg2
Yeyttitty