Nice explanation on the spacing! A lot of people tend to leave more space to get more of the "dimes" look but I've always felt that was a weaker joint but wasn't sure if I was right.
Muy buenos cordones,los consejos no los entiendo,no habló inglés, POR FAVOR SUBTÍTULOS EN ESPAÑOL, MUCHAS GRACIAS,me quedó con lo que veo,un saludo cordial y por supuesto un gran like desde Narón, Galicia ( España)
Thanks Everlast for adding spanish subtitles. I bought an Everlast and I see your videos to grow up my skills. Sorry if my English is not enough good. Regards.
Someone told me with chrome Molly you need to reheat and destress the welds and heat zones? Is this true? They said it’s prone to failure and cracking for roll cages if you don’t.
I am curious how your method might very with .035 wall. It is what I have to weld most often and I have difficulty getting it to flow without burning through. I am probably moving too slow, I would like to see a video on thinner wall 4130 cond. N. What would your set up look like for cup, rod size, tungsten. Thanks
I've never done 4130, but do thinner wall stainless tubing, so may be similar...with that stuff I find that really good tight fitup is most critical, followed closely by extra good torch position/arc length and of course amp control as the parts heat up. A 1/16" tungsten with a good sharp tip helps makes it more steady at that kind of low amperage. I've been getting pretty good results with ~30A setting with a pedal and 0.045" filler rod, but the thin stainless is tough as it is very unforgiving of bad pace/bad positioning/bad heat control and gaps are tough to fill and cause a ton of warping. The Furick 12 helps with color and better shielding, but will not fix too much heat. I haven't found yet how to get nice colors on the thin stainless, as more amps/more travel speed also increase the difficulty in keeping good position especially on tubing and I can't keep up yet, so more like 35 amps would probably be better with better skill in keeping it moving. Higher current to enable faster travel speed while still keeping nice tight arc length and torch position is usually the ticket for reducing total heat input and heat affected zone. I am guessing that thin walled 4130 is probably similar. Thoriated tungsten starts a bit nicer at low amps, but lanthanated or purple multi mix starts fine if you keep the arc length nice and short for startup. I have been sticking with the multi mix so I don’t have to worry as much about the grinding dust.
2:56 the weld beads are still concave though. For max strength you need convex, so the weld bead is in compression pulling the 2 materials together with a natural spring like force instead of pushing them away
Sorry but you mean concave. If you imagine a waterfall hitting the bottom without concave which is energy hitting the bottom with allot of force the its going to continue to errode the bottom from all that force hitting it but if it was a concave it would wash right through the bottom and not put so much energy into it! Same applies to welding joints and weld puddles!
@@smackdaddy1ful convex, bulging welds is what you want. As the weld cools it contracts. Convex shape will put a normalised stress pushing the tubes apart. Convex will pull them together. If your tube thickness is 2mm, you want a weld bead over 2mm thick as you can't get 100% penetration. Look at any top level tig welded bicycle, especially alloy frames. 2mm tube thickness but 6mm stacked dimes convex/bulging outwards. The strength will be similar but the welds will fatigue and crack if convex given enough duty cycles. Just look at any Yamaha dirt bike frames, cracks along the welds after 10 years of work
@@deepinuranus3433 ok, had a job interview for a company that builds circle track dirt cars and they had me weld chrome moly pipe with a mig welder. Didnt do that great with it.
@@jasonschagt6527 hi, it will weld with MIG and look ok but I doubt it will be the correct wire. That's the good thing about tig. Japanese bike frames are CrMo but I think they were done with stick. I've repaired and altered frames with MIG but it's not the ideal.
ER70 wire will work for MIG welding chromoly. Have at it. The reality is, a properly designed chromoly frame is such that the weld is stronger than the tubing. A 90 degree T-joint has more linear weld than tube cross-section. In fact, you can weld a 45-degree 1.25" 16 ga tube and leave 1/4" of the crotch un-welded, then bend the joint open, and the tube will tear/kink before the weld fails. We weld tubing all the way around because it's a corrosion issue if we don't. Just so you know, Word War 2 and Vietnam were fought on rivets and bolts. A current-day MIG/TIG machine would have been a game-changer.
Hi, I would like to make two holes in the seat tube of my bicycle to put a water bottle holder, perhaps using allen bolts + barrel nuts. This is of chromoly 4130, would it be feasible without it cracking in the future? Help pleaseee... _Hola, quisiera hacer dos perforaciones en el tubo del asiento de mi bicicleta para poner un porta bidon de agua, quizas utilizando pernos allen + tuercas de remache. Esta es de chromoly 4130, sería factible sin que éste en un futuro se fisure?_
This is normally done by oxy acetylene brazing with bronze or silver filler wire. The M5 fitting is purchased from a frame building supply house. Look up bicycle specific building videos for details.
They really need to get someone that actually knows how to weld 4130. This guy completely overheats his welds, has a very nervous rod technique, and of course doesn't explain what really matters.
Thanks for keeping these videos short and on point. I always learn something every time.
Thanks for the feedback
Great video! Thanks for not showing us glamour welds and for keeping this on-point. Much appreciated.
Another great video packed with good tips, Mark 👍👍
Thank you Mark,I was wandering how to tig weld 4130 and your video help me a lot!
Are you pulsing the pedal or running any puls in the settings?
Nice explanation on the spacing! A lot of people tend to leave more space to get more of the "dimes" look but I've always felt that was a weaker joint but wasn't sure if I was right.
More stress larger dimes,this is the way 🤠🤟🇬🇧
Great video. Short and to the point. Thanks Mark.
So you use regular mild steel rod to weld chromoly?
You can - gives a less-strong weld, supposedly.
Er80sd2 - supposedly better.
I’ve used Weldmold-880, though.
Muy buenos cordones,los consejos no los entiendo,no habló inglés, POR FAVOR SUBTÍTULOS EN ESPAÑOL, MUCHAS GRACIAS,me quedó con lo que veo,un saludo cordial y por supuesto un gran like desde Narón, Galicia ( España)
Adding them now
Thanks Everlast for adding spanish subtitles.
I bought an Everlast and I see your videos to grow up my skills.
Sorry if my English is not enough good.
Regards.
Hay poca info en español sobre el chromoly seria genial esos subtítulos
Que varilla de aporte se utiliza para el chromoly 4130
Great vid. What type of helmet are you using here?
Thank you Mark!
Someone told me with chrome Molly you need to reheat and destress the welds and heat zones? Is this true? They said it’s prone to failure and cracking for roll cages if you don’t.
I think this is old thinking, before tig was common. I don't believe any pro chassis builder does this.
depends on thickness.
Thinner stuff like this, and mild steel filler rod, does not need post weld heat treat
Nice video well done!
Could you please explain the term "Step Over". Does this refer to weld bead spacing?
Stacking dimes aka stepover
Step and pause, how far you move each time.
I am curious how your method might very with .035 wall. It is what I have to weld most often and I have difficulty getting it to flow without burning through. I am probably moving too slow, I would like to see a video on thinner wall 4130 cond. N. What would your set up look like for cup, rod size, tungsten. Thanks
I've never done 4130, but do thinner wall stainless tubing, so may be similar...with that stuff I find that really good tight fitup is most critical, followed closely by extra good torch position/arc length and of course amp control as the parts heat up. A 1/16" tungsten with a good sharp tip helps makes it more steady at that kind of low amperage. I've been getting pretty good results with ~30A setting with a pedal and 0.045" filler rod, but the thin stainless is tough as it is very unforgiving of bad pace/bad positioning/bad heat control and gaps are tough to fill and cause a ton of warping. The Furick 12 helps with color and better shielding, but will not fix too much heat. I haven't found yet how to get nice colors on the thin stainless, as more amps/more travel speed also increase the difficulty in keeping good position especially on tubing and I can't keep up yet, so more like 35 amps would probably be better with better skill in keeping it moving. Higher current to enable faster travel speed while still keeping nice tight arc length and torch position is usually the ticket for reducing total heat input and heat affected zone. I am guessing that thin walled 4130 is probably similar. Thoriated tungsten starts a bit nicer at low amps, but lanthanated or purple multi mix starts fine if you keep the arc length nice and short for startup. I have been sticking with the multi mix so I don’t have to worry as much about the grinding dust.
.040" tungsten for sure. Good fit up a must and move fast.
Use pulse.
Ive been using 4130 filler rod on .049". Wets nice. No problems.
The problem with using 4130 filler on 4130 tube, it isn’t ductile after. You need to heat-treat the assembly after or it will be prone to cracking.
How to start the Arc? Mash the pedal or ease into it?
What's up with all the smoke off the weld? Is the scale beyond the cleaned area or on the ID of the tube still cooking off?
Oil still on inside of tube. Some smoke still comes off a clean tube though.
Thank you, ill take one of those machines if ya got any extras around.
www.everlastgenerators.com/product/mig/lightning-mts-275-tig-package
What everlast welder are you using tho?
Lightening MTS275 is what the man said
2:56 the weld beads are still concave though.
For max strength you need convex, so the weld bead is in compression pulling the 2 materials together with a natural spring like force instead of pushing them away
Sorry but you mean concave. If you imagine a waterfall hitting the bottom without concave which is energy hitting the bottom with allot of force the its going to continue to errode the bottom from all that force hitting it but if it was a concave it would wash right through the bottom and not put so much energy into it! Same applies to welding joints and weld puddles!
@@smackdaddy1ful convex, bulging welds is what you want. As the weld cools it contracts. Convex shape will put a normalised stress pushing the tubes apart.
Convex will pull them together.
If your tube thickness is 2mm, you want a weld bead over 2mm thick as you can't get 100% penetration.
Look at any top level tig welded bicycle, especially alloy frames. 2mm tube thickness but 6mm stacked dimes convex/bulging outwards.
The strength will be similar but the welds will fatigue and crack if convex given enough duty cycles. Just look at any Yamaha dirt bike frames, cracks along the welds after 10 years of work
Concave has the advantage of a relatively smooth transition at the toe to the parent metal.
Winchester 73 🤠🤟🎥
I'm trying to weld .035 wall tube and just blowing holes in the ends all day.
Could you do a video on welding chrome moly with a mig welder?
Doubt you can get the right wire for mig.
@@deepinuranus3433 ok, had a job interview for a company that builds circle track dirt cars and they had me weld chrome moly pipe with a mig welder. Didnt do that great with it.
@@jasonschagt6527 hi, it will weld with MIG and look ok but I doubt it will be the correct wire. That's the good thing about tig. Japanese bike frames are CrMo but I think they were done with stick. I've repaired and altered frames with MIG but it's not the ideal.
ER70 wire will work for MIG welding chromoly. Have at it. The reality is, a properly designed chromoly frame is such that the weld is stronger than the tubing. A 90 degree T-joint has more linear weld than tube cross-section. In fact, you can weld a 45-degree 1.25" 16 ga tube and leave 1/4" of the crotch un-welded, then bend the joint open, and the tube will tear/kink before the weld fails. We weld tubing all the way around because it's a corrosion issue if we don't. Just so you know, Word War 2 and Vietnam were fought on rivets and bolts. A current-day MIG/TIG machine would have been a game-changer.
What about using a 2% lanthanated tungsten
Hi, I would like to make two holes in the seat tube of my bicycle to put a water bottle holder, perhaps using allen bolts + barrel nuts. This is of chromoly 4130, would it be feasible without it cracking in the future? Help pleaseee...
_Hola, quisiera hacer dos perforaciones en el tubo del asiento de mi bicicleta para poner un porta bidon de agua, quizas utilizando pernos allen + tuercas de remache. Esta es de chromoly 4130, sería factible sin que éste en un futuro se fisure?_
This is normally done by oxy acetylene brazing with bronze or silver filler wire. The M5 fitting is purchased from a frame building supply house. Look up bicycle specific building videos for details.
Cool....！
👍👍👍
damn i did a weld test on chromoly (first time ever doing it) and i ran at 110... i quickly found that to be way too hot haha.
Can u weld chrome moly to steel of a car?
Yes. I've done it a few times. The mild steel seems to require more heat so you need to watch that you don't overheat the moly
@@kalebhall2925 Right on thanks. 👍
Glad to help!
some people would recommend stainless filler rod for dissimilar metals. Something like 312L or 309L or Weldmold 880
@@RPaton Thanks for the tip 👍
Why do so many welders have a fire hazard at the ends of their chins?
That’s a question that goes back to the medival iron smiths
You need to get yourself a leather flap for the bottom of your hood. Don't wanna burn up that magnificent beard
It wouldn’t be a welding video if you didn’t get your eardrums blown out with the intro metal riff.
Stop saying undercut!!!
They really need to get someone that actually knows how to weld 4130. This guy completely overheats his welds, has a very nervous rod technique, and of course doesn't explain what really matters.
RHUBARB 😮
Thank You Mark!
How to start the Arc? Mash the pedal or Ease into it?