Enjoyed the video. I raced for Raleigh as a USCF Cat 2 just after the 84 Olympics. Now that I’m welding I long to build my own frame. Will be putting my new Miller Multimatic 220 to work.
I hear a lot of people complaining about their electronic boards burning up on the everlasts. How long have you owned yours and do you like it? Thanks for the vid.
Please continue! I have loved the journey also. Welded my main triangle recently and wish I had practiced on these settings. Your exploration makes these clips accessible to us aspirational builders. I also use an aluminum heatsink with a mitre that I have on a threaded rod to access deep tube ends. Have you made your own BBS's as this is a good project also. can't wait for series II.
Very clever heat sink placement! I haven't made my own BBS's, maybe some day. Right now I cannot because of the minilathe. It stinks at cutting steel. If I really finess it maybe it could work, but the time and effort would be too great. Thanks for the comment :)
Interesting, what kind of testing have you done on these frames? From what I know about 4130, you want some of that heat input and to cool it slowly because its very heat sensitive. It would be cool to see some destructive testing using your pulse settings vs straight foot pedal controlled weld.
your welds are great your fit up is great if you're having a hard time staying in your line use some extra light I have multiple lights on my welds and pulsing good it's all about timing. try pulsing .05 I use that a lot especially on aluminum
I was trying to find an easy way to build a bike.. found a video of yours... and finally..i watched ALL of your videos in just one day!!! EXCELLENT!!! Now I can t wait for the next one :-) Please continue building ! I was wondering how do you find the time to build,film,edit.. work,raise 3 kinds,etc... have you invented a 40hours day ? :-)
+Βαγγέλης Παπαγεωργίου Hahaha yeah basically! I'm blessed with a patient family and good kids. They let me disappear into the garage for most of the day. I do come up for air though. All the cooking on the weekends is my job! So yeah, I'm a very very busy dad. :)
+sweenep86 I've tried pulsing with pedal. while I do like the control, I found I can move faster with machine pulse. Machine pulse can produce much better results, it's all about the person behind the torch. I need lots of practice! :)
I do some thin wall stainless and my helmet only goes down to shade 9 and I'm thinking 6 or 7 might be better. The better you see the better you weld any thoughts?
I think anything lower than 9 might show the arc too bright. I use shade 9 for thin wall stuff and it feels like the perfect shade to me for this. That said I never tried anything lower. Maybe it could be dangerous to go lower? I know one thing that helps with visibility is to avoid any lighting behind you that might reflect into your helmet from behind you.
@@rixogtrwww.dpfirebird.co.uk/ all 316L Very popular. Successful Race and Freestyler models over ten years production still traded at ten time their original purchase cost. With you always go up.
The rule of thumb is 1.5 amps per thousandths of thickness. So, you set the amperage 4x high and then 25% duty cycle. Whatever works. Here's the usual way to do it: ua-cam.com/video/is0BP39XZLw/v-deo.html
You're welds are fine but I think the pulse function prompts many people to weld to fast which limits your ability to maintain torch angle and Sri length especially on coped joints. Coped joints are also not fixed amp joints, they're essentially two lap joints and two fillets. I personally would use the pedal with 45a max, your fit up is great let the pool form and dab rather than laying the wire. The pedal will allow you ease off if its getting away from you. The stacked dime look will come from using the right sized rod and evenly timed dabs into the pool. The pulse setting is prompting you to weld faster than you're capable of and add more filler than required to stop it blowing through.
+sweenep86 sounds good. I get varying suggestions on different methods. I've found its a matter of preference. Someone who really knows how to pulse I think can produce good strong welds. For me, I need a lot more practice. I'm trying to get better at moving fast because most of the feedback I get is to move faster to reduce HAZ. Thanks for the tips.
The heat sink in this video is a temporary heat sink made especially for practicing. It's to simulate the real thing where I use a heat sink to weld actual frame tubes. Heat sinks are used to keep the heat affected zone smaller and reduce distortion on the tubes. Pulse welding also keeps heat down and reduces distortion if used correctly. However, some experienced welders can probably get the same results without pulse at all because they can move faster when welding. Hope that helps explain things.
Pithy Bikes thank so much for your reply. if pulsing helps to reduce the heat then i miss another theory in welding,because the heat itself is actually needed to melt the material. but thx,i will need to learn more about pulsing. = )
Gallardo6669 the current comes in at a peak of % you set on the machine. so 20% pulse time on will be 20% of the total pulse will have max amperage the other 80% will be a % background current like 5% of 100 amps would be 5 amps hope that makes sense.
i am thinking too build my own electrik bicicle that will go 40 miles per hour so i need realy stong welds i know too weld only whit stick welding so that tip of welld i thing is stronger than this
Can't remember what I used in this video.. I normally use 035. But sometimes I'm using 045. I don't think one should go much smaller than 035 for this application..
no mater if you finish your frame please don't stop your video series .you are part of my weekly entertainment :)
+BisdremisKostas thanks and don't worry, I'll start a new series with another bike. :)
Is there a most common wall thickness for 4130, or a standard size for specific diameter tube
Enjoyed the video. I raced for Raleigh as a USCF Cat 2 just after the 84 Olympics. Now that I’m welding I long to build my own frame. Will be putting my new Miller Multimatic 220 to work.
I hear a lot of people complaining about their electronic boards burning up on the everlasts.
How long have you owned yours and do you like it?
Thanks for the vid.
Please continue! I have loved the journey also. Welded my main triangle recently and wish I had practiced on these settings. Your exploration makes these clips accessible to us aspirational builders. I also use an aluminum heatsink with a mitre that I have on a threaded rod to access deep tube ends. Have you made your own BBS's as this is a good project also. can't wait for series II.
Very clever heat sink placement! I haven't made my own BBS's, maybe some day. Right now I cannot because of the minilathe. It stinks at cutting steel. If I really finess it maybe it could work, but the time and effort would be too great. Thanks for the comment :)
Interesting, what kind of testing have you done on these frames? From what I know about 4130, you want some of that heat input and to cool it slowly because its very heat sensitive. It would be cool to see some destructive testing using your pulse settings vs straight foot pedal controlled weld.
Great build I am hooked cant wait to see it finished so you can start another one.
+masso45able I can't wait to start the next too! A bike for my son. And as usual, it's not a regular bike. ;)
Excellent, nice heat cinc backing bar. Good idea to make one.
is this 1.6mm rod or 1.0mm，thanks
your welds are great your fit up is great if you're having a hard time staying in your line use some extra light I have multiple lights on my welds and pulsing good it's all about timing. try pulsing .05 I use that a lot especially on aluminum
+Mike Hill Thanks I'll give that a go. I just need to practice on a regular schedule.
Welds look very nice. I couldn't tell, were you using the dab or lay wire technique?
Mark Burton did you even watch the video?
Mostly lay-wire, as far as I can tell.
I was trying to find an easy way to build a bike.. found a video of yours... and finally..i watched ALL of your videos in just one day!!! EXCELLENT!!! Now I can t wait for the next one :-) Please continue building !
I was wondering how do you find the time to build,film,edit.. work,raise 3 kinds,etc... have you invented a 40hours day ? :-)
+Βαγγέλης Παπαγεωργίου Hahaha yeah basically! I'm blessed with a patient family and good kids. They let me disappear into the garage for most of the day. I do come up for air though. All the cooking on the weekends is my job! So yeah, I'm a very very busy dad. :)
+Pithy Bikes oh yeah, and I do all the grocery shopping too!
What are the angle blocks you are using to hold the tubing in the vise? Where did you get them?
+JIM GERHARDT those are cobra frames angle blocks. Check out the description of video if you'd like to buy a set. Cheers!
Do you have a foot pedal ? I'd forget pulsing and just use the pedal
+sweenep86 I've tried pulsing with pedal. while I do like the control, I found I can move faster with machine pulse. Machine pulse can produce much better results, it's all about the person behind the torch. I need lots of practice! :)
I do some thin wall stainless and my helmet only goes down to shade 9 and I'm thinking 6 or 7 might be better. The better you see the better you weld any thoughts?
I think anything lower than 9 might show the arc too bright. I use shade 9 for thin wall stuff and it feels like the perfect shade to me for this. That said I never tried anything lower. Maybe it could be dangerous to go lower? I know one thing that helps with visibility is to avoid any lighting behind you that might reflect into your helmet from behind you.
This is really fun to watch. Are you able to weld aluminum too?
+babolnart yes it will do aluminum. Thanks for watching!
Hey, Good video, let me tell you tho, I made a market leading range of BMX bikes, we used 316L filler wire for ChroMoly.
Wow that's weird, why did you use 316 for Cr-Mo ??
@@rixogtrwww.dpfirebird.co.uk/ all 316L Very popular. Successful Race and Freestyler models over ten years production still traded at ten time their original purchase cost. With you always go up.
are you using all of the amps? foot all the way down?
+Ivan WNY I'm not. I'm only about half way. I could prob dial it in more for more range.
nice job man. are u happy with the everlast?
+Al Michael's thanks! I'm very happy with the Everlast.
The rule of thumb is 1.5 amps per thousandths of thickness. So, you set the amperage 4x high and then 25% duty cycle. Whatever works. Here's the usual way to do it: ua-cam.com/video/is0BP39XZLw/v-deo.html
You're welds are fine but I think the pulse function prompts many people to weld to fast which limits your ability to maintain torch angle and Sri length especially on coped joints. Coped joints are also not fixed amp joints, they're essentially two lap joints and two fillets. I personally would use the pedal with 45a max, your fit up is great let the pool form and dab rather than laying the wire. The pedal will allow you ease off if its getting away from you. The stacked dime look will come from using the right sized rod and evenly timed dabs into the pool. The pulse setting is prompting you to weld faster than you're capable of and add more filler than required to stop it blowing through.
+sweenep86 sounds good. I get varying suggestions on different methods. I've found its a matter of preference. Someone who really knows how to pulse I think can produce good strong welds. For me, I need a lot more practice. I'm trying to get better at moving fast because most of the feedback I get is to move faster to reduce HAZ. Thanks for the tips.
Pithy Bikes i pulse and dab! I have video if my welds
Pithy Bikes some of my welds if you watch closely have little to zero haz!
whats the the benefit of the heat sink and the puls welding?
The heat sink in this video is a temporary heat sink made especially for practicing. It's to simulate the real thing where I use a heat sink to weld actual frame tubes. Heat sinks are used to keep the heat affected zone smaller and reduce distortion on the tubes. Pulse welding also keeps heat down and reduces distortion if used correctly. However, some experienced welders can probably get the same results without pulse at all because they can move faster when welding. Hope that helps explain things.
Pithy Bikes thank so much for your reply. if pulsing helps to reduce the heat then i miss another theory in welding,because the heat itself is actually needed to melt the material. but thx,i will need to learn more about pulsing. = )
Gallardo6669 the current comes in at a peak of % you set on the machine. so 20% pulse time on will be 20% of the total pulse will have max amperage the other 80% will be a % background current like 5% of 100 amps would be 5 amps hope that makes sense.
SuperMrCARBON this is per 60 seconds too. You forgot to mention that
Good job! It helps me a lot. Thanks ;)
Rod 1/16?????
Good info. Thanks!
+Wildman Tech thanks for watching!
Looks killer. I wish I had pulse settings 😕
+dragmeundermusic it's all a matter of preference. Having tried multiple ways, I prefer pulse for bicycle tubing.
+Pithy Bikes yeah anything thin I feel like pulse is key
Show the INSIDE of the pipe Please!!! Your insert helps the O2 from getting to the weld, If you didn't use it you would have to fill tube with GAS!!!!
Nice to see you missed the track welds; you should see some of my learning experiences, then you would rate yourself an expert!!
Thanks for the video
+Tom Herd haha thanks for watching.
how stong are these welds?
+rommeo27 they'll hold ok. But this particular practice had some starved welds. So not as strong as it could be.
i am thinking too build my own electrik bicicle that will go 40 miles per hour so i need realy stong welds
i know too weld only whit stick welding so that tip of welld i thing is stronger than this
fully torqued
:D
what is filler
filler rod/wire. It is added (dipped) into the molten puddle while welding.
maybe more zoom in next time, its going to be a very good close up welding. im very enjoy your video.
+Chandra Defta thanks! I'll try to get closer shots. Shooting welding is very challenging!
yea,thats true. the most clear welding video close up is weldingtipsendtrick as far as i know. i tried to copy,but the result is far from good.
you have to thick filling rod use smaler
Can't remember what I used in this video.. I normally use 035. But sometimes I'm using 045. I don't think one should go much smaller than 035 for this application..
You should try it without pulse
where you buy these tubes ?
+riccardo zuliani for this practice tubes, I go to McMaster. 4130 tubes, 1mm wall
You a bad welder !
Bad like Michael Jackson!
@@michaelboudreau5600 lets see your welds?
Better walk a little bit faster.